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I have fond memories of MontamartaDay 0 - Home to Zamora –
I'm arriving in Madrid tomorrow (Sunday) just before noon, after travelling 16 hours and 9 time zones. From the Madrid airport I might get the Metro to Atocha, simply because I like the Metro and I always feel that I've arrived in Madrid when I get to Atocha station. It is familiar - I first went there in 1971. However, I will need to get to Chamartin Station for a train to Zamora. One leaves at 14:57, getting to Zamora only about 90 minutes later. The next one takes 3 hours, so if I miss the first one, I'll wait for the fast one leaving at 16:30.
In Zamora, I'll want a good night's sleep . I stayed in the albergue before, but will want a private room for the night.
Questions:
- What is there to do around Chamartin Station for a couple of hours on Sunday? Should I go straight there from the airport, or should I pass through Atocha and plan to get the later train?
- Where should I stay in Zamora? I want a comfortable private room since my sleep will be disturbed and I don't plan to leave early the next day.
- What are the sightseeing highlights for a few hours in Zamora?
- Should I walk or bus to Montamarta?
Day 0 - Home to Zamora –
I'm arriving in Madrid tomorrow (Sunday) just before noon, after travelling 16 hours and 9 time zones. From the Madrid airport I might get the Metro to Atocha, simply because I like the Metro and I always feel that I've arrived in Madrid when I get to Atocha station. It is familiar - I first went there in 1971. However, I will need to get to Chamartin Station for a train to Zamora. One leaves at 14:57, getting to Zamora only about 90 minutes later. The next one takes 3 hours, so if I miss the first one, I'll wait for the fast one leaving at 16:30.
In Zamora, I'll want a good night's sleep . I stayed in the albergue before, but will want a private room for the night.
Questions:
- What is there to do around Chamartin Station for a couple of hours on Sunday? Should I go straight there from the airport, or should I pass through Atocha and plan to get the later train?
- Where should I stay in Zamora? I want a comfortable private room since my sleep will be disturbed and I don't plan to leave early the next day.
- What are the sightseeing highlights for a few hours in Zamora?
- Should I walk or bus to Montamarta?
The nice thing about virtual pilgrimages is you can always get a private room with no reservations (and for very little virtual money).I am hoping to stay at El Molino de Castilla in Montamarta but I’m having trouble booking online and seeing exactly what is available for pilgrims. I’d prefer another comfy night in a private room.
That is a very good point! I would have stayed at the Parador in Zamora except that I liked the location of Hostal Gemi. It looks from this site that my next opportunity will be in Puebla de Sanabria.The nice thing about virtual pilgrimages is you can always get a private room with no reservations (and for very little virtual money).
I personally prefer that you lay out the next day’s plans, that leaves plenty of opportunity for my unsolicited advice, which would be totally beyond the point if you were already reporting after having done the day’s walk. But you should do whatever is the most fun for you.Aside:
This is an interesting writing challenge. I am not a professional writer or even experienced amateur, except for technical documents, but I am finding this to be fun and time-consuming. How can I combine imaginery today and last night at the albergue in a way that seems credible, with the realistic plans for the next day, and at the same time get readers to participate? Should I write about the current day or the next day? In some cases I am posing questions to which I know some of the answers. But that is sort of a technique (it probably has a name) to engage others in the conversation. Thanks for participating - I need that. At the end of the walk I will have a very customized guide written for myself!
Agree!I personally prefer that you lay out the next day’s plans, that leaves plenty of opportunity for my unsolicited advice, which would be totally beyond the point if you were already reporting after having done the day’s walk.
This may be our little duet, but I hope some others will jump in with bits and pieces of interesting information.Agree!
In that case you may want to hear the residents too. Too fast for me but with YouTube you can slow down the playback (I don't see closed captioning).Especially good because I can practice my Spanish with him.
Especially good because I can practice my Spanish with him.
In that case you may want to hear the residents too. Too fast for me but with YouTube you can slow down the playback (I don't see closed captioning).
Thanks for that interesting option - it seems to be about 28 km from Riego to Tabara. I probably won't do that on this journey, because I'm not quite ready for a 28 km day.I have even found out by Google Maps and IGN, that walking from Riego del Camino to the monastery could be a short-cut (-2 km) on your way to Tabara (if - like me - you want to bypass La Granja de Moreruela).
This guy was a bit fast (as a walker) for me,. He is going to Montamarta tomorrow, and on to Astorga the next day, so I won't see him. However, I liked listening to him talk.But you surely don’t want to walk with him, because he announces he has given up walking on the dirty pebbly camino and will stick with walking on the road, which he thinks is heavenly!
Yes, these were a bit fast (talking, not walking), but a good level to challenge me. However, I find that about 15 minutes at a time is enough. I have bookmarked the YouTube channel for ongoing practice.you may want to hear the residents too. Too fast for me
Do you mean the one right outside Granja de Moreruela? I am not there yet on my virtual journey, but will definitely stop there.I'm hoping you haven't virtually walked by the stunning ruins of the Monasterio de Moreruela without stopping
Sorry if this came up before, but you can watch on youtube and slow down the playback speed.Thanks for these links - they are excellent.
This guy was a bit fast (as a walker) for me,. He is going to Montamarta tomorrow, and on to Astorga the next day, so I won't see him. However, I liked listening to him talk.
Yes, these were a bit fast (talking, not walking), but a good level to challenge me. However, I find that about 15 minutes at a time is enough. I have bookmarked the YouTube channel for ongoing practice.
I've been lazy and need to get back on the road!
Can't slow his walking speed, though. C. Clearly is pacing this walk for "Four seasons on the Sanabres."Sorry if this came up before, but you can watch on youtube and slow down the playback speed.
Riego del Camino promised a bar… there was a bar but pilgrims…never ever go there. It is the grubbiest of grubby bars ever on the planet… and the most miserable of miserable people behind the bar.
...
Apart from returning into the devils bar we had no choice but to walk on.
I can still remember my visit in this bar back in 2010. The bored waitress was wearing a Barca sports-dress and watching the spanish version of "the Wheel of fortune" on TV. The level of this TV-Entertainment was considerably low. You have to complete words or phrases which you must guess from the letters given. Even my limited knowledge of the Spanish language was sufficient to win each turn, but the waitress was puzzled. She would better have cleaned the premises instead of watching TV. When she opened the window we saw how filthy the whole place was and were glad that we had only ordered coffee (water apparently boiled) and brandy (good desinfectant) for drinks.
That is a difficulty in walking a virtual camino - my report on the new albergue at Riego del Camino has to rely entirely on the information from another forum threadHope you enjoy your stay at the brand new albergue and looking forward to your report on it.
So true. These descriptions of the bar make me want to go there just to experience the fun. I have a memory of going into a bar somewhere on the VDLP, taking a look around, and deciding to move on, even though I seriously wanted a break. But I don't remember where it was.I reckon even with that bar and those ants I'd be a happy pilgrim walking that path today!
So did I, oddly enough.That is a difficulty in walking a virtual camino - my report on the new albergue at Riego del Camino has to rely entirely on the information from another forum thread. I wonder what those people are doing now.
EDITED TO ADD: Whoops, I am getting mixed up between a new albergue in Fontanillas, and the re-opened Casa Camino in Riego del Camino.
Let's just say I missed some arrows and went off track on this virtual camino.I recall all those remarks in the thread, even so, also got confused and mixed up albergues and towns.
Day 3 – Fontanillas de Castro to Granja de Moreruela (10 km)
I’m glad I decided to take these two short days. Now my jet-lag has pretty much gone. It can be a real problem as I am not a good sleeper in the best of times.
Now with only 10 km planned for today, I will arrive in Granja early, but I don’t remember either the town or the albergue with much pleasure. I couldn’t find anything between Granja and Faramontanos de Tabara, and I don’t want to do 35 km to walk all the way to Tabara today.
So maybe I’ll try the place listed in Gronze – La Casa del Tío Quico in Granja. It looks quite nice and makes gastronomic claims. Anything would be better than that bar in town.
Does anyone know about La Casa del Tío Quico? Any other place to stay?
No, but their website showed this"Did you see that there are meals provided?
That reminded me to go listen to another 15 minutes of the video in post #18. I haven't got to the story of the icemaker yet, but am looking forward to the excitement.Not much going on in Granja, unless the arrival of the icemaker family has really livened things up!
This is a good plan but I know I can get lazy once I arrive at my "home" for the evening. I think a better plan would be to go to the Monasterio before going into Granja, using the shortcut to Tábara that @Via2010 mentioned in post #22. After the monastery, I'll walk east to Granja for a total of about 15 km that day.walk into Granja and leave your stuff at Tio Quico. Then take the path out to the monastery, it’s under an hour each way.
I think a better plan would be to go to the Monasterio before going into Granja, using the shortcut to Tábara that @Via2010 mentioned in post #22. After the monastery, I'll walk east to Granja for a total of about 15 km that day.
Thanks for the help! I am quite pleased with the new plan.
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I have included that track, but there is another track that seems to go straight across the countryside, farther from the highway:Do these tracks look right to you, C clearly?
I don't know anything about this.potentially dangerous albergue by the motorway?
Just following up on this comment. LI stayed in Casa del Sastre years ago, which Gronze now suggests is closed. The albergue was, years ago, a dingy dangerous place. I think they have cleaned it up, but its location somewhat out of town and on a busy road made it a magnet for some unsavory characters. I remember there were thefts, but as I said I think this is all history.
Ah, yes. That was referring to Montamarta. I stayed at that albergue in 2017 and found it to be fine; I think it had been improved by that point. It is a little removed from the town and was near to a roadway, so I'd probably not stay there by myself, but it wasn't dingy or noisy at all.Just following up on this comment
Is that the Puente Quintos?But enjoy the view on the way!
The walk from Granja de la Moreruela is full of contrasts. Soon after you leave town, the spectacular river Esla will come into view. Once you cross the bridge, you'll be rock hopping your way along the water until you climb again for a last view over it - a lovely spot to take a breather and refuel. I've heard that there's an archeological site (prehistoric?) nearby, but I haven't explored and I can't find any references to it. Perhaps someone else knows? Once you clear the last rocks, you find yourself in a completely different landscape - a wide open finca with holm oaks and reddish earth. On the descent to Faramontanos de Tabara, you first pass some small vineyards - each with a small cottage, patio, and barbecue - then some fields of sunflowers.Maybe I’ll do the 25 km to get to Tábara after all. It would put me in a better position to walk to Santa Marta de Tera the next day.
Yes, But ignore Peregrinopaul's map if you're walking. Cyclists must stay on the road, but walkers turn sharp left after the bridge and scramble along the rocky river bank.Is that the Puente Quintos?
Indeed I did have to stay on the road, but the walkers' route is marked on the map with shells. It sounds, from your description that it was a bit of a scramble, so it looks like I (have) made the right decision.Yes, But ignore Peregrinopaul's map if you're walking. Cyclists must stay on the road, but walkers turn sharp left after the bridge and scramble along the rocky river bank.
I like having to scramble from time to time. It makes me feel like a kid again, free from the inhibitions of everyday adult life.Take the scramble option after the bridge
I wrote that from memory, having walked this route twice (Nov. 2017 and Sept 2019). There's also a contemporaneous account on my my blog site - jonagrams.com (I originally posted the diary to Facebook and later copied to my blog). But memory is a funny thing ... Today I realized that I mixed up the Moreruela Abbey with the Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo near Montamarta, so I've deleted that nonsense about dry valleys flooding with water.How do you remember all these details? Diary? photos? brain?
Is there anything in particular that makes it strenuous?the walk from Tabara to Santa Marta is strenuous
I really can't put my finger on it. You spend half the day going uphill on a straight, compacted-dirt road and the scenery is dull compared with the day before. I really think it might be the quality of the scenery that makes me feel tired - the hill is nothing compared with what you climb when you enter Galicia, and the road surface is not my favorite but I've walked further on worse. Sometimes it's mental strength rather than physical stamina that you need..Is there anything in particular that makes it strenuous?
I really can't put my finger on it. You spend half the day going uphill on a straight, compacted-dirt road and the scenery is dull compared with the day before. I really think it might be the quality of the scenery that makes me feel tired - the hill is nothing compared with what you climb when you enter Galicia, and the road surface is not my favorite but I've walked further on worse. Sometimes it's mental strength rather than physical stamina that you need..
On your way out of Tabara you will likely have to walk the gauntlet of a pack of quite scary dogs. They are pretty aggressive and they don't want you hanging around their territory. In 2017 I met them in the fields immediately after the railway overpass. Last year they were a bit higher up in the wooded area. As far as I know they haven't attacked anyone but you may wish to walk in a group if you're nervous about dogs.
I've taken the route through Villanueva de las Peras twice now - can't tell you anything about the other option. The restaurant La Moña in Villanueva is very pilgrim friendly. The owners opened up for us to have lunch when we passed through on a Tuesday (their day off). To cap it off, they gave us each some French toast as a dessert.
The twin villages of Santa Croya and Santa Marta are, for me, the highlight of the stage. They make a pretty scene on either side of the Tera river. Santa Croya is the larger of the two pueblos - a Minneapolis to Santa Marta's Saint Paul. It has a couple of banks, a bakery, a supermarket, and a few bars and restaurants. When the modern-day Camino Sanabres was being revived, I believe Santa Croya is where the first albergue was established. It closed a few years ago. Santa Marta across the bridge, is the site of the Romanesque church of Santa Marta with its famous 11th century (or 12th?) statue of St. James - the oldest of the saint as a pilgrim. The statue is under threat now because of holes created by burrowing insects. I believe it will have to be moved indoors to protect it. If you have a chance to visit the inside of the church and the museum upstairs, it's well worth doing so. Last year we went to the church to pay for the albergue and get our credentials stamped, and the lady in charge kindly showed us around.
If you don't feel like hopping back to Santa Croya, there's a restaurant and a bar in Santa Marta and a small store where you can buy ingredients to cook for yourself. The albergue is modern, clean, and comfortable; large kitchen, two dormitories, good showers, washing machine, patio with line for drying, etc.
Friends have told me that the water in the Tera valley gives them digestive problems. I didn't experience any problems, but if you are sensitive to such things, you might want to drink bottled water while passing through this region.
Maybe that's what Raggy's dogs were trying to do!I am like a dog who won't let go of your pant leg when I talk about romanesque churches,
How far out of Tabara? I don't see any railway tracks on Google maps.On your way out of Tabara you will likely have to walk the gauntlet of a pack of quite scary dogs. They are pretty aggressive and they don't want you hanging around their territory. In 2017 I met them in the fields immediately after the railway overpass. Last year they were a bit higher up in the wooded area. As far as I know they haven't attacked anyone but you may wish to walk in a group if you're nervous about dogs.
Now I've identified the AVE line. If I am alone and feeling anxious about the dogs, I could taxi about 3 km to a point on the ZA-100 where a dirt road goes left 500 m along the Arroyo de Valdefontantillas to join up with the Camino. On the two map attachments, I put a red circle at the turnoff, and the street view photo even shows a yellow arrow on the back of the sign! That would cut about 4 km off my walking for the day.In 2017 I met them [pack of dogs] in the fields immediately after the railway overpass. Last year they were a bit higher up in the wooded area.
I met the dogs at somewhat different points in 2017 and 2019.Is that far enough to avoid them, or should I take a taxi 1.5 km farther up the ZA-100 to the next dirt road along Arroyo de la Balina? There's another arrow there.
Right. Where are we @C clearly? (I've been distracted having to travel 500km, (and back), off-camino to have cataract surgery, which was cancelled hours before - the dreaded virus hits home...sigh.)
Hopefully you're en route to Santa Marta, avoiding dogs - I too missed them. I'm looking forward to the Rio Tera, and stripping off for a delicious swim just before the bridge, (but then I'm a June guy).
You may be confronted with this.
View attachment 71788
I decided to follow the directions to Bar la Moña, previously mentione dy someone I think. It might have in volved a small detour into Villanueva de las Peras, but worth it for a welcoming hearty lunch.
Well, since we are not in a hurry on this Camino, I am suspending time and only posting a new stage when I feel like it!Where are we @C clearly?
Maybe I have installed myself in their community for a few days!you will bring something of interest (yourself) into a tiny community of elderly residents, many of whom are eager to talk to you.
Trust me - Me Gusta Comer is highlighted on my spreadsheet! I really enjoyed your description. That will be tomorrow (whenever that arrives).Right guys, shall we tell her about Rionegro?
Thanks for that suggestion - if I am (possibly) jumping ahead in the taxi today, maybe I will want to go past Santa Marta de Tera. We shall see!If you feel like walking beyond Santa Marta
I think the reason I’m enjoying this thread so much is because it’s bringing back so many memories of my first Camino in 2012. I had bought a new, and very good Olympus camera, (and even carried a tripod and extra lenses - and even an iPad; my load was ridiculous. When C began her virtual Sanabres, I sought out the mini disk of the pictures I took then and the therapeutic effect has been most welcome.As someone who went through (two or three times!!!) before this place opened, your description ratchets up my desire to go back to the Sanabrés.
I do have a couple of Rionegro stories of my own though, one involving a dead mouse. But I’ll wait for Clare to bring us up to date.
I think the reason I’m enjoying this thread so much is because it’s bringing back so many memories of my first Camino in 2012. I had bought a new, and very good Olympus camera, (and even carried a tripod and extra lenses - and even an iPad; my load was ridiculous. When C began her virtual Sanabres, I sought out the mini disk of the pictures I took then and the therapeutic effect has been most welcome.
I’m curious to know in what year you first travelled this way. Was there an albergue in Rionegro then? I think when I passed through, the new albergue had only been open for a few months.
I'm sorry if I seem over eager, but I keep overtaking you (both?) on my bike. (I used to feel a bit of a cheat about that, but I've long got over it!)
You are the advance reconnaissance team!I'm sorry if I seem over eager, but I keep overtaking you (both?) on my bike
Why not. I thought this was a very pleasant section. I think there were at least 2 water fountains along the track which is comprehensively, and handsomely markedI have a slight quandary...
should I take two days by stopping in Olleros de Tera or Villar de Farfón and then making a very short walk to Rionegro the next day?
I see your shadow. Barely. That's quite a drop.When I was crossing the dam, I stopped to take this photo by leaning right out over the rail with my arms outstretched.
I had never noticed that before!I see your shadow. Barely. That's quite a drop.
I am really enjoying all this! Thanks for posting your virtual camino.Is that the Puente Quintos?
I hope I'm not muscling in too much on @C clearly 's camino, but she forgot to bring a camera.I am really enjoying all this! Thanks for posting your virtual camino.
In Olleros de Tera, the albergue is very basic - essentially a breeze block shed with a row of beds at the back of Bar La Trucha. Verrry cold in November, but the grandma who owns the bar was lovely and so was her mother (or mother-in-law?) who directed me there! If you pass through in the afternoon, you should stop for a plate of her home made sausage and other cold cuts. But you're out of luck today because they're closed on Wednesdays.If I walk the 27 km to Rionegro, I will be eating my evening meal at Me Gusta Comer. Since I have unlimited time, should I take two days by stopping in Olleros de Tera or Villar de Farfón and then making a very short walk to Rionegro the next day? I would arrive very early, in good time to shower, do laundry and put on my finery for the mid-day meal, AND then eat there in the evening too!
Wow, Raggy! Reading that entry brings home to me one of the great disadvantages of travelling by bike. You can easily miss so much detail, and whizz by splendidly interesting albergues like the one you describe at Farfón. The other great disadvantage is that you only meet fellow peregrinos like all of you on this thread, once.In Olleros de Tera, the albergue is very basic.....
From what I saw in Sept. 2019, it's all bunks now.The albergue was very nice. Two floors, beds, not bunks
Shh .... you'll start an avalanche. You can find a few reviews here:Will someone (or multiple someones) please describe their meal like Paul has done?
It's a dorm with bunk beds in an annex of the sports hall. If you bring your shotgun, you might be able to get some practice in at the clay pigeon range nearby. (Don't worry, they'll stop shooting before bedtime).If I walk on to Asturianos, the accommodation is at the polydeportivo. Gronze indicates that there is a bar or restaurant there.
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