Dogs on Dragonte route from Villafranca del Bierzo to Herre

[mairsey1950]

On the 22/5 last I got a text about 4pm from my son who had just done the "via Dragonte" from Villa Franca del Bierzo to Herrerias and onto O'Cebreiro on his own..

He described seeing a deer , large snake , some lizards and a rabbit.
He said he had done 43k that day and was very tired.
When he got home last week I heard more about the day.
he had lost the track a few times.He is confident now however he wouldn't get lost if he were to do it again;
I reckon he took the wrong option a good few times.

The first story he told me when he arrived home was about this particular day.
On the route he was followed by a group of growling and barking dogs ;
He was going down hill at the time;
He was aware that there was a village at the bottom of the hill
He described reversing downhill waving his stick at them. the whole time.
(he must have remembered from times gone by you never show your back to an angry dog.,)
When he got to the village a local called the dogs to order. Relief..
I know it was a terrifying experience for him and .he is not easily terrified
At this point he would say "sure that probably happens all the time".
He is not willing to talk about it at this stage

During his trip he took over 3,000 photos .We have got as far as the photos of Santo Domingo de Calzada.
Maybe when we get to the photos the "Dragonte" we will hear more.
Having discussed his experience with a few friends I felt I should share the story.
Best Wishes from one who hope to do the Camino when time allows.Mairsey Dublin.

 

[Nick-E]

I did the Dragonte route on the 13th May, and also enjoyed a great variety of wildlife including many dogs and cattle...4 times I had to very quickly get off the path as farmers were moving their cattle to a new field...quite an experience with the cows' horns passing within a foot or so of my face!

I found that the dogs were just doing what dogs do...guarding their territory and letting their owners know when a stranger approaches...so while there was lots of barking and noise and posturing from the dogs, I didn't feel threatened at all.

The route is very challenging and hugely rewarding. There were no other pilgrims to be seen on the Dragonte route that day, and as there are no shops, bars or restaurants it's important to go well prepared! There is very limited waymarking in comparison to the rest of the route so it's also necessary to follow the guidebook closely and often! Brierley states at one point that while crossing a stream 'you may get wet' ...I found that at this point I had to take boots and socks off to wade shin deep about 40 yards through a couple of streams!

The marking of the paths down to San Fiz do Seo is quite confusing...I managed to miss the quarry altogether, but just kept heading down to the bottom of the valley following the stream and river, keeping the village in sight, and then walked back along the road into the village from the opposite end.

Walking on to O Cebreiro after reaching Herrerias is a huge achievement...that's 4 big climbs in one walk...I can understand why your son was very tired!!!

I stopped at the albergue in Herrerias, where the sign at the door said 'Completo / Full'. I bought a couple of drinks and while talking to Richard, the hospitalero, mentioned that I had come along the Dragonte route, to which he said there was in fact one bed remaining that he always keeps in reserve as late as possible for anyone coming that way...great relief!!!

Enjoy the photographs...and hope you get to experience the Camino yourself one day.

Very best wishes

Nick

 

[Abbeydore]

"The marking of the paths down to San Fiz do Seo is quite confusing...I managed to miss the quarry altogether, but just kept heading down to the bottom of the valley following the stream and river, keeping the village in sight, and then walked back along the road into the village from the opposite end. "

Nick,

I did this a month before you I guess the track down to San Fiz do Seo has become a bit overgrown in the month, there are signs and they take you away from the quarry, the tracks are are tricky in that the brambles etc grown across & trip you up, thankfully my poles saved me every time! Getting across stream @ bottom there was a bridge & then one had to head east before the steep-road that I guess we both followed up to San Fiz........this is where a lovely chap brought out 4 coffees for us.
We were all cold & very wet from rain & snow.

& yes drank lots of Richards lovely local red wine, first with Tom(falcon269) & then richard & then finally on our own. The warm/hot shower was very welcome..........just wish I had given Richard some money to light the fire........then maybe would have found it a bit easier to walk up to La Faba & C'eberio & Fonfria the next day, by not drinking so much to keep warm :lol: :lol:

It's a lovely walk, & is equivalent to going up Ben Nevis twice in one day.........hope you've seen Gunnar's film http://vimeo.com/41684856

The dogs were lovely, shared my morn. break with one of them

 

[Nick-E]

Hi Abbeydore

Richard was an absolute saint...I would have really struggled to walk on to La Faba that day, as unlike your day it was really hot and sunny, so no excuse for me to over indulge in the red wine

However it did make the climb to O Cebreiro more enjoyable by starting with it in the morning rather than having it at the end of the day. It was also beautiful arriving early in the morning at the church at O Cebreiro and seeing the sun's rays beaming through the windows.

A couple of days after getting home I sat and watched all of Gunnars videos end to end...they brought back so many wonderful memories.

 

[Abbeydore]

Hi Nick,
Yes Richard is a true saint, & too are his wife & his dog; he & his dog are to walk the Camino together this year, their simple hospitality was wonderful, & just the right amount of caring.

Herrerias was definitely one of our big Camino moments:

arriving, the shower, the crack, the food, the sleep, the breakfast, the owners & their dog....wonderful :mrgreen:
David