LIVE from the Camino Escaping the Rain: Walking the Rota Vicentina in Portugal

[FRM]

Arrived in Porto yesterday to walk my second Camino Portuguese. As you may know the rain in northern Portugal has been intense (Biblical?) the last few weeks and the forecast was for of the same. I wasn’t at all looking forward to walking. I started hunting around on the Forum for other walks in Portugal and came across a series of post by @jungleboy on the Rota Vicentina/Fishermen’s Way. Like all his posts it was well written with great photos. So, I’m catching a bus to Lisbon this morning then continuing on to Vila Nova de Milfontes. Really looking forward to walking somewhere different. More to come….

Frm

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I had hoped to be doing the same right now, sadly normal life got in the way. It’s supposedly the perfect time of the year for it. I shall simply have to look forward to walking it vicariously through your posts!

By the way, (assuming you’re not already carrying some) - you might want to consider picking up a pair of short gaiters . In my research I came across multiple people who mentioned them.

Enjoy!

 

[Former member 104756]

It's a wonderful path, and well signposted. We walked partly Historical Route and partly Fishermen's Trail. We wore short cotton 'gardeners' gaiters' - excellent for keeping small pebbles and sand out of our shoes. Enjoy.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Rota Vicentina in April 2019 before the Portuguese Central from Porto and had gorgeous weather, minus one afternoon of rain. It is not a Camino path and does not have a pilgrimage "feel", but delightful and did not put me off. It is a beautiful route!
Here are a few pictures I pasted into one photo.

 

[NadineK]

I walked this route (from Porto Covo to Sagres) in April of this year and it was the best 8-day stretch of walking I've ever had. Just incredible scenery every single day! (I also had near perfect weather, so that helped too). Enjoy this walk, it's a fabulous one!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

By the way, (assuming you’re not already carrying some) - you might want to consider picking up a pair of short gaiters . In my research I came across multiple people who mentioned them.

Peter, I normally do not think gaiters are necessary on the Caminos, but the first few days of 3-4" sand on this route out of Porto Covo does collect it in your shoes, and gaiters would help unless a person walks in sandals; boot wearers probably get none...My shoes filled up periodically.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Peter, I normally do not think gaiters are necessary on the Caminos, but the first few days of 3-4" sand on this route out of Porto Covo does collect it in your shoes, and gaiters would help unless a person walks in sandals; boot wearers probably get none...My shoes filled up periodically.
View attachment 159234

Yep, I specifically meant this walk. First became aware of it through watching @NadineK ‘s videos from when she walked it earlier this year. (yes, I am a fan). Then, as mentioned hoped to walk it literally this week and next ( normal life ) so researched further.
And whilst I’ve only done two Caminos (without gaiters!) , I’ve walked many, many beaches!

I love sand under my feet - just not in my shoes!

 

[FRM]

I had intended to bring gaiters for the mud. However the ones I own had a strap that goes around the sole. Designed for boots with some type of heel. Since I wear Altra’s there is only a flat sole so I left them at home. I’m wearing the Olympus 5 high top so I’m hoping that helps. If this doesn’t work I’m pretty good with duct tape….

Frm

 

[Camino Chrissy]

My son chose to wear thin low socks from Decathlon this fall on the Madrid route to make room for special inserts for plantar fascitis and got quite a few tiny stones in his trail runners. I wore thicker socks with a top that covered my ankles like I always do and I rarely had a stone.

 

[NadineK]

Yep, I specifically meant this walk. First became aware of it through watching @NadineK ‘s videos from when she walked it earlier this year. (yes, I am a fan). Then, as mentioned hoped to walk it literally this week and next ( normal life ) so researched further.
And whilst I’ve only done two Caminos (without gaiters!) , I’ve walked many, many beaches!

I love sand under my feet - just not in my shoes!

Peter, I'm so sorry to hear that your Rota Vicentina plans have been canceled (well, hopefully just delayed). Hoping you'll find your way to this path soon!

 

[jungleboy]

Enjoy! Hope the weather is good and that you have a great walk!

 

[haikutaxi]

Yep, I specifically meant this walk. First became aware of it through watching @NadineK ‘s videos from when she walked it earlier this year. (yes, I am a fan). Then, as mentioned hoped to walk it literally this week and next ( normal life ) so researched further.
And whilst I’ve only done two Caminos (without gaiters!) , I’ve walked many, many beaches!

I love sand under my feet - just not in my shoes!

I live near the ocean and walk beaches all the time. I find that barefoot is the best on sand unless it has too many rocks.

 

[Stewart K.]

I'm starting the Fisherman's Way next week (November 3). Can't wait!

 

[PilgrimPillar]

https://www.facebook.com/1943115662632084/posts/pfbid0kp1xWxFMV6XGjw9HACXoq5GBmvckZZgXHHY5Bhde37RpZRiuNxNj2VzwNDjNXnhfl

Probarbly my favorite pilgrimage to date …..

Combining
Via Algarviana
Rota Vicentina
Caminho Portuguese………

I was blessed..,,

 

[FlyingScott]

I walked the FT 3 weeks ago and never again due to combination of extreme heat and 2.5 days of relentless sand.
Beautiful scenery and we stayed in some great hotels but tough otherwise.

 

[Keyser]

I had hoped to be doing the same right now, sadly normal life got in the way. It’s supposedly the perfect time of the year for it. I shall simply have to look forward to walking it vicariously through your posts!

By the way, (assuming you’re not already carrying some) - you might want to consider picking up a pair of short gaiters . In my research I came across multiple people who mentioned them.

Enjoy!

Did the Fishermans Route in 2018. Beautiful place and weather. Some days I wished I had snow shoes to deal with the soft sand!!

 

[towanda1961]

I live along the Fisherman’s Trail and can promise it will be one of the most beautiful walks you’ll ever do. We’ve just had some intense rain and wind, but the weather going forward looks perfect. Enjoy!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Peter, I'm so sorry to hear that your Rota Vicentina plans have been canceled (well, hopefully just delayed). Hoping you'll find your way to this path soon!

Thanks Nadine. Had to make do with grabbing just 4 days here in Germany (which I wrote about on another thread) but Portugal it wasn’t! Let alone a proper walk. I don’t know about anyone else, but I have the feeling that I’m only really getting into my stride on day 4 or 5…. .
I’d so wanted to do the RT now because, risk of rain aside, the temperatures look just about perfect!

@FRM , I envy you!

But then I suspect anyone that’s not actively walking right now feels the same, wherever in the world we may be .

 

[LouLou]

I had intended to bring gaiters for the mud. However the ones I own had a strap that goes around the sole. Designed for boots with some type of heel. Since I wear Altra’s there is only a flat sole so I left them at home. I’m wearing the Olympus 5 high top so I’m hoping that helps. If this doesn’t work I’m pretty good with duct tape….

Frm

Altras have gaiters for their shoes, they velcro on... worn them on various types of Altras over my last 5 caminos, light weight stretchy fabric. My uncle and aunt walked with 'gardener' gaiters on the Frances 5 years ago... lots of stops and comments from peopleon how good an idea. $10 in Bunnings Australia...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

lots of stops and comments from people on how good an idea.

Interesting how we are all different. I have never needed gaiters (except the Rota V) and have walked quite a few Caminos. I only very rarely get a small stone in my trail runners.

 

[Lleslie]

me wearing my 'dirty girl' gaitors

 

[Former member 104756]

My uncle and aunt walked with 'gardener' gaiters on the Frances 5 years ago... lots of stops and comments from peopleon how good an idea. $10 in Bunnings Australia...

That’s where we bought ours too @LouLou Simple cotton gaiters. And we get the same reaction. Excellent for sand, and for keeping out small stones and grass seeds etc and take the brunt of any mud. We have worn them on all our Caminos for many years.

 

[LTfit]

Great walk! Did it from Santiago do Cacem -> Porto Covo -> Cabo San Vicente March 2016 (without gaitors ). Would rewalk anytime!

Ultreia!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

me wearing my 'dirty girl' gaitors

I have heard of "dirty girl" gaiters. Do they sell "dirty boy" gaiters, too?

Simple cotton gaiters.

Jenny, I am surprised they are made of cotton instead of a wicking, quick drying synthetic if caught out in rain and mud.

 

[Lleslie]

I don't think so, Chrissy but plenty of fun designs for boys and girls good for keeping the dust and grit out. They are made in the USA - more expensive here in Australia but make good presents

 

[Former member 104756]

Jenny, I am surprised they are made of cotton instead of a wicking, quick drying synthetic if caught out in rain and mud.

Yep, I understand. I had 'proper' gaitors on my first camino (I ditched them after the first week) and have also used Dirty Girl gaitors at home. But these simple ones are what works best for me. Ours are old and cotton but have also seen same more recently in a slightly more water repellent fabric. We don't tend to wear them in persistent rain - that would be just another wet thing to deal with. I'm sure we've worn them more than 90% of the time and so happy with that. Personal preference, like shoes and socks - and just about everything else.

Not wanting to derail this thread - but, like others, do recommend for the sand on the Rota Vicentina

 

[FRM]

Today walked from Milfontes to Almograve (16k 4hrs). Partly sunny with a nice breeze. What can I say but WOW. Some of the prettiest, wildest coast I have ever seen. Just spectacular.

Of Note: 1. The dunes are above the 40 foot + cliffs that drop to the beach. So you are walking in sand regardless. The loose sand definitely slowed my pace and was more tiring than the flat walking I’ve done on a Camino. That is sort of made up for by the fact there isn’t much elevation change.
2. Had about a dozen people pass me heading north, met two heading south. Hard not to say “Buen Camino” as we passed. Average person was younger than on the Caminos I’ve walked.
3. Sand in my shoes wasn’t an issue. My Olympus 5s high tops were fine. Between the height of the shoes, the waterproof lining, and the sewn in tongue no sand got in.
4. The HI hostel in where I made reservations doesn’t allow check in before 6pm, leaving me many hours to hang out…
5. Did I mention the views. Fabulous.

Really looking forward to the next 9 days.

Frm

 

[FRM]

 

[Former member 104756]

Had about a dozen people pass me heading north, met two heading south. Hard not to say “Buen Camino” as we passed

Wonderful day you’ve had @FRM .

We walked south to north (in 2017) as we were coming from Andalusia and would later go on to walk from Porto to SdeC. But, at the time most people walked north to south. I’d say that’s likely still the case. You always see more people when you walk ‘against the tide’.

Enjoy the days to come.

 

[towanda1961]

Today walked from Milfontes to Almograve (16k 4hrs). Partly sunny with a nice breeze. What can I say but WOW. Some of the prettiest, wildest coast I have ever seen. Just spectacular.

Of Note: 1. The dunes are above the 40 foot + cliffs that drop to the beach. So you are walking in sand regardless. The loose sand definitely slowed my pace and was more tiring than the flat walking I’ve done on a Camino. That is sort of made up for by the fact there isn’t much elevation change.
2. Had about a dozen people pass me heading north, met two heading south. Hard not to say “Buen Camino” as we passed. Average person was younger than on the Caminos I’ve walked.
3. Sand in my shoes wasn’t an issue. My Olympus 5s high tops were fine. Between the height of the shoes, the waterproof lining, and the sewn in tongue no sand got in.
4. The HI hostel in where I made reservations doesn’t allow check in before 6pm, leaving me many hours to hang out…
5. Did I mention the views. Fabulous.

Really looking forward to the next 9 days.

Frm

Every day is more beautiful than the day before!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Average person was younger than on the Caminos I’ve walked.

We walked north to south and the few people we saw along the trail going in either direction all were obviously younger and reminded me more of hikers/backpackers.

 

[alipilgrim]

I live along the Fisherman’s Trail and can promise it will be one of the most beautiful walks you’ll ever do. We’ve just had some intense rain and wind, but the weather going forward looks perfect. Enjoy!

Laura, being local, what time of year would you suggest people walk this path?

 

[towanda1961]

Laura, being local, what time of year would you suggest people walk this path?

Really any time except July, August and September. This year October was also very hot. March, April and May are my favorite months because there are so many wild flowers in the dunes. Winter is lovely but many restaurants and accommodations will be closed.

 

[FRM]

Today walked from Almograve to Zambijeira do Mar (23km. 5.5 hours). Heavy rain in the morning with light rain on and off the rest of the day. Very strong and gusty headwinds the entire day. As others have said the views only get better.

Of note:
1. Didn’t come across a single northbound person all day. Met about 15-20 heading southbound with me.
2. The wind was intense. Actually a little unnerving where the path came close to the edge of the cliffs.
3. Walking in the sand continues to be challenging. I’m feeling muscles I didn’t know I had.
4. While I know this isn’t a Camino, the HI in Almograve has urinals that have a scallop shell that disperses the water. This leads me to believe that Santiago at least passed through and used the facilities .

 

[towanda1961]

Today walked from Almograve to Zambijeira do Mar (23km. 5.5 hours). Heavy rain in the morning with light rain on and off the rest of the day. Very strong and gusty headwinds the entire day. As others have said the views only get better.

Of note:
1. Didn’t come across a single northbound person all day. Met about 15-20 heading southbound with me.
2. The wind was intense. Actually a little unnerving where the path came close to the edge of the cliffs.
3. Walking in the sand continues to be challenging. I’m feeling muscles I didn’t know I had.
4. While I know this isn’t a Camino, the HI in Almograve has urinals that have a scallop shell that disperses the water. This leads me to believe that Santiago at least passed through and used the facilities .
View attachment 159399View attachment 159400

When you get to Aljezur you’ll be on the Camino for a while. The church there has St James himself on the wall.

 

[towanda1961]

When you get to Aljezur you’ll be on the Camino for a while. The church there has St James himself on the wall.

Actually I’m thinking of Santiago do Cacem. Sorry about that!

 

[FRM]

Todays walk to Odeceixe (22km. 6 hours) was a bit challenging. Woke up to a gorgeous day, sunshine, light breeze. I looked on Mapy.cz and it appeared I could start off on the beach for the first km or so then rejoin the trail. I walked through a number of little coves, sometime on sand and other times scrambling over the tongues of volcanic rock. When I got to where the trail showed on Mapy.cz all I found was a rope hanging down from a 40’ cliff. This wasn’t a rope to assist on an incline, but to climb on a near vertical surface. It took about a second realize this would not turn out good. It showed another connection a few coves up. Climbed over the next tongue to find a trail that came within 15 feet of the sand and was able to scramble up to it. By the time I reconnected with the RSV I’d used close to 2 hours to travel 3 km.

After that the walk was once again gorgeous, though I found the trail a good deal rougher today. A number of places reminded of the decent down from Cruz de Ferro. Lots of loose sharp rocks. Lots of up and down. Made to Odeceixe fine but a bit worse for wear.

 

[FRM]

Odeceixe to Aljezur to Arrifana (2 days).
The trail starts spending more time away from the cliffs. Part off this is the towns are set back further from the coast and you need to get to a road/bridge to cross a river. Have spent time walking through forests, along fields, and a bit along roads. Though a majority is still cliff side. There is also a bit more hilly sections.



Yesterdays walk was mostly sunny. First really sunny day since I started. The water was blue instead of gray. Very beautiful. The last couple of days have also seen an increase in day walkers and even a group on horseback. It’s clear the farther south you go the more tourists.



Once you get to Arrifana you have arrived in the kingdom of the surfer. Blonde, blue eyed Northern Europeans. Young and beautiful. Lots of camper vans. Most villas have wet suits hanging out to dry. The predominant language being spoken is English. The hostels have names like “Endless Summer Surf House” and “Cool Dude Surfer Place”. We’re I 40 years younger (and beautiful ) I would want to live here.



Heavy winds and rain today. I’m taking the day off. I’m staying about a 40 minute walk inland. Opted for a private room over a suffer hangout…….

Frm

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Lots of camper vans.

FRM, I am loving your descriptions. In this same area a cute couple in a camper van allowed me to take their picture as I walked by.

 

[FRM]

A quick question to any of you who have walked the RV somewhat recently. Mapy.cz shows the RV forking about 1.5 km above Carrapateira along the coast. One fork continues along the coast, crossing the river then turns inland to Carrapateira. The other fork doubles back north for a couple of km. then joins joins the ER268 into town. This makes the 2nd option a good deal longer. My concern is can I get across the river if I continue along the coast as opposed to doubling back and getting on the ER268? I don’t see a bridge on satellite. Is the water shallow? Am I missing something.
Thanks,
Frm

 

[jungleboy]

Is this Google Maps screenshot what you’re talking about? As in, how to cross from the beach to the green?



When we walked in April last year the water was indeed very shallow near the ocean and we just walked it. I’m not sure if it depends on tides but that’s what we did.

 

[FRM]

Is this Google Maps screenshot what you’re talking about? As in, how to cross from the beach to the green?

View attachment 159583

When we walked in April last year the water was indeed very shallow near the ocean and we just walked it. I’m not sure if it depends on tides but that’s what we did.

Thanks for the reply. That is area I’m talking about. Hopefully I will pass someone headed north who has crossed (or not) tomorrow. A bit worried the rains may impact it. I’ll report back.

Best,
Frm

 

[FRM]

Arrifana to Carrapateira - (13 miles, 4.75 hours)
Todays walk was windy and mostly cloudy thru midday, then became mostly sunny. A big chunk of it was inland thru forest.



I made better time away from the sand. Which I guess is to be expected. As I neared Carrapateira I walked through an area that had recently burned. In some paces down to the beach



It was like a moonscape. I met a number of people coming the other way and all had been able to cross at the beach. My concern was recent rains and the strong onshore winds would make the crossing difficult, but it was dry. It’s really more of an inland lagoon with a small trickle than a river. The waves were large enough to crest the cliffs near Carrapateira. Pretty amazing sight.



The town is very small and very quite in the off-season. One thing to note is that services (cafes, restaurants, water) are few and far between on the RV. Today there was nothing the entire 12 miles. On the Camino I usually don’t carry food since you typically come across a place every few miles. Here I’ve had to carry lunch. In the summer you would need significant amounts of water.

Frm

 

[Camino Chrissy]

That moonscape is sad indeed. Hopefully the lovely succulent flowers will return.They blanket the sandy soil in April.

 

[FRM]

That moonscape is sad indeed. Hopefully the lovely succulent flowers will return.They blanket the sandy soil in April.
View attachment 159659View attachment 159660

These are beautiful. There was some green shoots visible. Not sure what they were, but something is trying to come back.

 

[FRM]

Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo - 11 miles, 5.5 hours

Today was the hardest day so far on the RV. The weather was cloudy with strong onshore winds and some of the most powerful gusts I have ever experienced. The first half was a series of steep climbs followed shortly by steep descents back to the beach. Somewhat reminiscent of leaving Castrojeriz, except doing it 6 times in a row. The second half was much easier with a more inland route sheltered from the with minimum elevation change

The trail was narrow and rough with a few section on loose rocks.



There have been alot of cliff side portions of the trail over the last 7 days where a stumble would result in falling a LONG way. The gusts today made me even more aware of the hazard. The RV is not a route for those afraid of heights or with vertigo.


All in all I’m glad today is over. Really looking forward to getting to Cabo de Sao Vicente tomorrow.

Frm

 

[FRM]

Vila do Bispo to Cabo de S.V to Sagres - 12 miles, 5 hours.

Oh what a difference a day makes. The weather was great most of the day and hills small. The first part of the walk is along dirt tracks thru agricultural lands. Came upon a Shepard and his two dogs moving a group of cattle and sheep. First time I’ve encountered a mixed group.



As you approach Cabo De S. Vincente you can see water on three sides. The weather changed as I arrived and a squall line moved thru with brisk winds and heavy rain.



There was nothing open and no place to get out at the rain so my visit was brief. There were lots of tourist taking a quick picture and getting back into their cars. The walk to Sagres was unremarkable and the weather cleared as I arrived. Spent some time on the beach. Lots of surfers.


While I was sitting eating my lunch it became clear to me that Cabo de S. Vincente was where the walk ended for me. Decided to spend a few days in Sagres. It’s a nice little town with a nice energy. It’s been a great walk and I would encourage those of you you have done a number of Caminos to Santiago to consider this route if you are looking for something a bit different.

Best,
Frm

 

[jungleboy]

There was nothing open and no place to get out at the rain so my visit was brief.

This sounded unusual so I checked on Google Maps and it said indeed that the lighthouse area is temporarily closed. That’s a shame as the cape and lighthouse is the symbol of Sagres and, as I see it, the RV’s Finisterre equivalent (including the tourists), with wonderful views.

 

[FRM]

This sounded unusual so I checked on Google Maps and it said indeed that the lighthouse area is temporarily closed. That’s a shame as the cape and lighthouse is the symbol of Sagres and, as I see it, the RV’s Finisterre equivalent (including the tourists), with wonderful views.

View attachment 159797

Ah that explains it. Wasn’t able to get a good picture like the above. It still felt as if I’d reached a special place. Thanks for following.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@FRM , I've really enjoyed following along. Thanks for posting!
Peter

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, @FRM, I enjoyed following along, too. It was nice to recall some of my own memories through your writings.

 

[Rianne33]

@FRM thank you for sharing your stories and info on the Fishermen's Trail. I'm now also walking it, for the same reason as you did, and am enjoying it a lot. Your posts are very interesting to read.
Rianne