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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Finally... My Camino de Madrid (June 2014)

:D
Yes, the key is still in Bar Real on main street (I think it is Calle Real, but not sure). The albergue was adequately clean although I think much of the cleanliness depends on us, pilgrims. For example, the shower and toilet in the same room without curtain - what else could you do if not mop everything after taking the shower...
The only thing I didn't understand was the position of bunkbeds. The first and last were turned with ladder to the wall and the middle two with the ladder between them... I took the time and repositioned them :p
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
DAY 11 (Tue, 01.07.2014)
PUENTE DUERO - CIGUĂ‘UELA (15,10kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

When I woke up it was still raining, not heavy but enough to put my poncho on. First I retraced to the bridge, crossed it and walked on the right side of the huge and long plaza (photos388&390). There are some bars, restaurants, kiosko (left side) and panaderia (right side) as I remember. Camino exits plaza on its upper left side, there's barely visible arrow on the edge of a pavement. Coming to VA-VP-9001 cross it and turn left on cycle track. Even more to the right is wide sandy track but it is very soft and the sand deep so I decided to walk on cycle track which runs along the road for almost 6kms to Rio Pisuerga. Here I must have missed arrows or maybe there are none. I went over the new bridge and then turned left toward Simancas, but I'm sure you have to turn left at the roundabout where the cycle track ends (photo392) and cross the river on old bridge (photos393&396).

From the bridge arrows leads uphill and around the old town which kind of worried me and when I saw that obviously I'm going away from the belltower I turned left toward it (on km8). When I came to the Iglesia de Salvador (photos398&400) and Plaza Mayor arrows were there again. Duh???

I wanted to rest awhile but all the bars and restaurants were still closed. Few minutes of sitting on the bench in the plaza and I was freezing in the cold wind and drizzle so I retraced to the Camino. On the exit arrows are plenty so no problem finding a way through underpass (A-62) and uphill right on the other side from where nice vista of Castle is (photo401).

From this point new type of markers are showing you the right direction (photos402,404&406 – in next post) all the way to Peñaflor de Hornija. I guess they were erected by the Valladolid Association (AJOVA). On the way you can see the outskirts of Valladolid (photo403 – in next post). Soon the rain stopped and clouds scattered so it was time to put poncho back in the rucksack and really enjoy walking (photo405 – in next post).

From exit of Simancas to the church in Ciguñuela is almost exactly 7kms through gently rolling hills with only one a bit steeper uphill entering Ciguñuela. First I went up to the church (photo409 – in next post) and later taking a break in the main plaza where I checked on my blister. It wasn't looking any better than yesterday evening so I decided to end the day although the weather was glorious.

To get to the Albergue municipal which is in restored La Casa del Maestro (photos412&413 – in next post) just stay on Camino from plaza, that's Calle del Medio (in the guidebook it is Calle las Eras which is the street through which you enter the village!), where on the left side are butchery and a little shop (closed during siesta and after 8PM). The hospitalera is living on number 24 so ring a bell and she will take you further up the street to the albergue. I think it is on number 42. In the basement there are toilet for disabled, huge dining/exhibition room, kitchen (1€ extra if you want to use it for actual cooking) and small patio. On the first floor I was sleeping in a room with two bunkbeds. With a Spanish pilgrim – first one I've seen from Madrid!!! CSJ guide has info that only 4 beds are there, from one other source I have 16 beds, which can be true because more rooms are on that floor but the doors were locked. Bathroom is nice and clean and small balcony for drying your clothes is also there (photo414 – in next post). The price is 3€.

If you want to drink or eat something I saw two bars/restaurants. Both on the street that goes uphill directly from Ayunamiento/Post office at main plaza towards the church. First one shortly on the right side and the second a bit later by the church on the left side. As I remembered AnnieSantiago recommended it but I haven't tried because in got quite busy in the first one ;)
 

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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc

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DAY 12 (Wed, 02.07.2014)
CIGUÑUELA – PEÑAFLOR DE HORNIJA (16,76kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

Again quite short stage, mostly because of the storms (photo423). I've started in light drizzle again, with my poncho on, which I kind of hate. Maybe I'm even more wet under poncho than I'd be without it. But in Tierra de Campos rain is always accompanied with quite strong wind so poncho is also protection from the cold. Apart from constantly changing weather the path is nice, mostly flat and easy to navigate (photos419&421).

The guide says it's 7kms to Wamba but my Endomondo shows 8kms. After the last left turn (photo422) when you come to the point where Wamba is visible down in the valley (photo424), be cautious for the arrow pointing to right down the narrow path (photo425). I went straight on because arrow on the small stone (right in the photo) was hidden in the grass but after 100mts retraced and descend to Wamba.

I've waited for an hour in the friendly bar adjoining panaderia for the storm to stop. As the guide (and Laurie Reynolds) has it the church in Wamba is one of the historical highlights of this Camino but unfortunately it was closed (photo429). It is on the other side of the village at your left side.

Also the rain had stopped and I moved on (photo430). It's another 8+kms to Peñaflor on wide country tracks which was really nice walk once when clouds opened up (photos433&434). Before Peñaflor there is one shallow ravine and another one about 60mts deep (photo435 – in next post). After climbing up to the village watch out to the right for the parrot in front of one of the first houses because it can greets you with loud and scratchy »Hola!«. I was so surprised my heart almost stopped :eek::rolleyes:

There are enough arrows to find albergue easy if you plan to sleep here. Once you turn right into very wide street, almost a small plaza, there is albergue to the right, medical centre opposite on the left and red brick house straight ahead some 20mts is alcalde's house where key can be obtained (exactly where the end point on my Endomondo map is). Otherwise ask in Bar Hornija (wi-fi) for direction (it's on Calle/Plaza Mayor), you can find it if going left into the next street from albergue and immediately right, you'll see it across the plaza. Anyway, the village is small and easy to find around.

Albergue is in renovated house with two dormitories (each with 4 beds), poorly equiped kitchen with fridge, nice bathroom and big open patio at the rear side (photos436-440 – in next post). Price is 3€. The reason I didn't push on to Castromonte is another severe storm when resting in the bar with my furry companion (photo445) so I got to know another two pilgrims from Spain, a father and a son from Madrid. They both spoke pretty good English and later we went for a delightful dinner in bar Hornija and chatted almost until midnight. There is a small shop (with very limited horario) and another bar on Calle Mayor. Close to the albergue is one church and in the street behind the Bar Hornija another one (photos441&443 – in next post).
 

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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Hola! I am a faithful follower too k1!!!! Just caught up with all your posts and have made copious notes in my CSJ guide. Thanks SO much. And thanks to Annie Santiago and Laurie and ALL others who contribute.
Two questions; I see several different options to "bypass" Navacerrada and avoid the steep scrambling exit, but they are not consistent in descriptions?
Also, on way to Segovia (or Valsain) Annie followed "green" dots (vs yellow arrow). Any thoughts on this?
Gracias, Pam
 
Hola! I am a faithful follower too k1!!!! Just caught up with all your posts and have made copious notes in my CSJ guide. Thanks SO much. And thanks to Annie Santiago and Laurie and ALL others who contribute.
Two questions; I see several different options to "bypass" Navacerrada and avoid the steep scrambling exit, but they are not consistent in descriptions?
Also, on way to Segovia (or Valsain) Annie followed "green" dots (vs yellow arrow). Any thoughts on this?
Gracias, Pam
I know, Pam ;)
Answers:

- 1:
A) You can bypass Navacerrada completely if stay on the tarmac road (see my post about that stage, about the number of that particular road, and Al the optimist's answer) but in the end you'll have to gain the same height either way you go.
B) If you are referring to steep ascent from the center of Navacerrada, the answer is the same as in A.).
C) If you're thinking of "scrambling" exit as "on natural path" (that is after crossing tarmac road above Navacerrada) let me tell you that it is not really steep. Of course you can stay on tarmac road (it's the same road mentioned in A)) left uphill, then a long right curve and immediately after restaurant Camino turns left.

- 2: To tell you the truth I don't remember any green dots going up or down to/from Puerto de la Fuenfria... They are mentioned in CSJ guide but haven't seen them. I was also kind of worried about this ascent when reading the guidebook, but it was so easy I was in doubt if I'm on the right path. This ascent is interspersed with Calzada Romana, Calzada Borbonica and one other path, but as I remember there is actually just one ;) First you'll go through forest and later a couple hundred meters on Roman road (easy recognizable - it's cobbled), then on more narrow white gravel path and towards the pass again steeply uphill on Roman road. If you'll cross two Roman bridges you'd be OK!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
DAY 13 (Thu, 03.07.2014)
PEĂ‘AFLOR DE HORNIJA - CASTROMONTE (10,19kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

Huh, even shorter stage on this day… Again because of the storm but more of that later. If yesterday wouldn't be for the rain this additional 10kms would be a real treat. Nice walk! Camino is almost straight all the time, on light gravel and runs through the fields except for maybe 1km where the pigsty is (photos447&448). That's approximately on km6, but before that there's an option of detour to Santa Espina. In albergue in Puente Duero I've got a leaflet of Casas de Turismo Rural »El Rincon del Labrador«. They offer special price for peregrinos at 15€/person/night. They have two different houses and could accommodate at least 20 persons if I understand leaflet correctly. Contacts:
Tel.: 983 565 210
Cell: 653 979 293 & 639 340 008
C/Jose Antonio 14
La Santa Espina (Valladolid)
www.elrincondellabrador.com
If anyone is really interested in this detour (I've heard of really beautiful Monastery there) I can scan or take a photo of this leaflet.

For me 10kms to Castromonte (photo452) were just enough to stop for a short rest. Because I've heard so much about nice older couple owning Bar Carbe across the plaza at the church (photo455) that was the place to stop. Haven't seen señora until later but señor was much fun to talk to although I haven't understand almost anything :D At first light rain began to fall and in the newspaper they've showed me consequences of yesterdays storms in the province of Soria. In one village in 45 minutes half a meter of hail had fell. In the middle of the summer firemen mounted their snow ploughs (plows???) on the trucks, others brought shovels and together they were cleaning the village. Crazy weather…

But after light rain real storm came and I really didn't want to walk in this horizontal rain. I drank some more beer and got additional info about Castromonte (photos453&454). They have two bars and one butchery (i.e.small tienda) opened only until 1PM. They don't serve food in Bar Carbe anymore, but I think you can get some in Bar Loteria which is on the main street but back to the entrance to Castromonte. Later I went in that bar also and I've heard some pots and pans rumbling from the kitchen. They also sell bread, ice cream and cigarettes.

The villagers were very friendly and they called a guy named Ivan to open the albergue for me. It is not donativo as CSJ guide and leaflet from www.provinciadevalladolid.com says. It's 6€, but quite worth it. OK, only one shower with WC, but with additional WC, two sinks, fully equipped kitchen (pots, pans, cutlery, microwave-oven, big fridge, stove with glass-ceramic plate), dormitory with 10 bunkbeds (photos449-451). Very clean but with limited outside space which I didn't missed much because of the rain.

All in all nice day although very short…
 

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Hi, KinkyOne, when I was in Bar Caribe, the man told me he was 91, and that was three years ago. Amazing he is still working.

I don't think that bar has been serving food for a long time now. When I went in it was lunchtime, and there were lots of workers. Since it was late, I asked the man "?Se puede comer todavia?" (Can I still eat lunch?), and his response was -- Si claro, si trajiste comida (yes of course if you brought the food). I looked at all the tables and sure enough everyone was eating out of their own lunchbox, with the beverage supplied by the bar. He must have felt sorry for me when I told him I didn't have any food, because his wife went home and came back with a home cooked meal. Those fresh fried eggs, chorizo, salad and bread were one of the best meals I remember. Very nice people in that town.
 
Hi, KinkyOne, when I was in Bar Caribe, the man told me he was 91, and that was three years ago. Amazing he is still working.

I don't think that bar has been serving food for a long time now. When I went in it was lunchtime, and there were lots of workers. Since it was late, I asked the man "?Se puede comer todavia?" (Can I still eat lunch?), and his response was -- Si claro, si trajiste comida (yes of course if you brought the food). I looked at all the tables and sure enough everyone was eating out of their own lunchbox, with the beverage supplied by the bar. He must have felt sorry for me when I told him I didn't have any food, because his wife went home and came back with a home cooked meal. Those fresh fried eggs, chorizo, salad and bread were one of the best meals I remember. Very nice people in that town.
Yes, Laurie, I remember your post about that. It was the reason why I asked him about the food and he told me that Castromonte "mal, mucho mal por comida, Rioseco bueno, Rioseco bueno por tienda, comida, todo", well, something like that :)
Senora still looks very energetic, but he is quite slow, having problems with pronouncing, his hands etc.
But agree completely that people in Castromonte are very nice, trying to be helpfull, very talkative,..., nice town to spend a rainy afternoon there ;)
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
DAY 14 (Fri, 04.07.2014)
CASTROMONTE – TAMARIZ DE CAMPOS (30,46kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

Finally one longer stage. Beautiful sunny day and I was just pushing on. Pure joy :D

Camino from Castromonte is again through the fields with almost no elevation. It's kind of funny that a little bit before 5th kilometer you should turn right (photo457) and than after 1,5km sharp left, because there are country roads that would lead you to Valverde de Campos more directly. But the path is really nice (photo458). On this stretch I've met a Spanish bicigrino from Villeguillo, which is on CdM and I've slept there also. He was actually on-foot-peregrino at first but bought himself a bicycle because of blisters :)

It's 9,7kms to Valverde de Campos where a nice church is soon after the entrance (photos460&462). I was very pleasantly surprised that there is a very well stocked up tienda in the village (not mentioned by any source). You can find it if you go left after the Ayuntamiento (main plaza is in front of you at that point), veer right and you'll find tienda on your left. Nice lady that runs it also offers sello. I was kind of sorry that yesterday I haven't pushed to Valverde because there is a possibility for sleeping in Ayuntamiento. The bar was closed (haven't asked if permanently or just that day/hour), but the main plaza had such a good energy that I saw myself enjoying the evening with the villagers easily (photos466&468).

7,3kms later (CSJ has 5kms…) I was in Medina de Rioseco (photos472-474&482) by the church of Sta.Maria de Mediavilla (photo478 – in next post). I took a quick stroll through the old city which was almost empty in the time of siesta and after short break found my way to the end (or beginning in this case) of Canal de Castilla or as they call this arm of it - Canal de Campos (photo486 - in next post). Jus stay on the main road and after the sharp left turn in the center it's only about 200mts to turn right, obvious markers! As CSJ guide explains official route goes by the Canal de Campos. But you have options to go to Berrueces (left) or directly to Moral de la Reina (middle) or to Tamariz de Campos (right, by the Canal). I've chosen later which was a really nice walk by the water, mostly in the shade and completely flat (photos493,490,496 – in next post). There are no benches or resting places on the right bank as you go, but there are some on the left. Either way you choose you'll come to the old mill and turning point for boats after 10,5kms from Medina (photo500 - in next post).

It's another 3kms to Tamariz de Campos and CSJ guide has it that there are many bird watching hides, but I've seen only one (photo502 – in next post). Also I didn't see any mosquitos but I was biten by at least 25 of them in mere 10 minutes because there's »Laguna de Tamariz de Campos«. Complete madness on that last 3kms straight stretch as if they breed them there… (photos 504&507 – in next post), or what :mad:

I've had the info that in Tamariz there is a possibility of sleeping in a place established by Ayuntmiento, but very helpfull owner of the local bar told me it isn't so. He showed me this dump, small and unfinished room at the side of the church (behind small brown doors on the right on photo 513) and I really didn't want to sleep in there. When he asked me what I plan to do I said that I'll sleep outside, either under the Casa Consistorial porch or something like that. Than he called a German woman Angela (German & English teacher in Medina) that is known for offering shelter for pilgrims sometimes, but she wasn't at home. I have her cell number although I'm not authorised to forward it… The bar owner allowed me to do some basic hygiene in bar's toilette and gave (lend) me a brand new sleeping mat before closing the bar. Another Camino angel ;)

When he closed the bar I was left alone at main plaza and enjoyed the evening in full (photos 509,511,513,514&517 – in next, 2nd, post). Sleeping under the porch of a nearby Veterinarian/Medical office.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
DAY 14 (Fri, 04.07.2014)
CASTROMONTE – TAMARIZ DE CAMPOS (30,46kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724


It's 9,7kms to Valverde de Campos where a nice church is soon after the entrance (photos460&462). I was very pleasantly surprised that there is a very well stocked up tienda in the village (not mentioned by any source). You can find it if you go left after the Ayuntamiento (main plaza is in front of you at that point), veer right and you'll find tienda on your left. Nice lady that runs it also offers sello. I was kind of sorry that yesterday I haven't pushed to Valverde because there is a possibility for sleeping in Ayuntamiento. The bar was closed (haven't asked if permanently or just that day/hour), but the main plaza had such a good energy that I saw myself enjoying the evening with the villagers easily (photos466&468).
.

Hi, KinkyOne, when you said that about the store in Valverde not being mentioned in any source, it brought back a vague memory. Didn't I say the same thing when I got there, and didn't I send this as one of my updates to the CSJ Camino de Madrid guide? So I checked through my old emails, and found that yes indeed, a couple of years ago, I wrote to the author of the guide with that addition. I also saw that none of my other comments had been incorporated, grrr. One of the ones I sent had to do with a bit of confusion leaving Tamariz. Hope you didn't wind up going through Moral de la Reina on your way into VilallĂłn, or I'll feel really bad that I didn't check to see if my notes got incorporated into the revision of the online guide.
 
Hi, KinkyOne, when you said that about the store in Valverde not being mentioned in any source, it brought back a vague memory. Didn't I say the same thing when I got there, and didn't I send this as one of my updates to the CSJ Camino de Madrid guide? So I checked through my old emails, and found that yes indeed, a couple of years ago, I wrote to the author of the guide with that addition. I also saw that none of my other comments had been incorporated, grrr. One of the ones I sent had to do with a bit of confusion leaving Tamariz. Hope you didn't wind up going through Moral de la Reina on your way into VilallĂłn, or I'll feel really bad that I didn't check to see if my notes got incorporated into the revision of the online guide.
I've also found very strange that none of the sources has this information: CSJ guide, Associations in Madrid & Valladolid and other web sites... Duh?
Leaving Tamariz is easy and clearly marked. Arrows weren't painted like a week ago, but are fairly recent. I guess that when association in Madrid decided on (new) official Camino they've stopped with marking older (former) options on this and some other stages.
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Gosh there's some beautiful light in these!
That's one of the reasons why I like to walk late in the day. I found afternoon light much nicer than morning light. Especially in flatlands which I also adore.
Ahm, not to mention that I'm a bit of a night owl and therefore late riser ;)
(Which can be a problem in high season on Frances but fortunately not on Caminos like Madrid and Invierno...)
 
I forgot this yesterday :)
HOW TO FIND SRA.ELA'S HOUSE IN MANZANARES EL REAL:

When you come to Manzanares before the old bridge there are arrows pointing you left to municipal/parrochial albergue (still closed) and further on Camino towards Mataelpino. Don't take it, go straight on to the Plaza Mayor and just proceed on its lower end into Calle Cañada. When you see this house with big fig tree (c/Cañada 45) in the patio you're already there (photo86), but turn left uphill before it and right and you're on Calle Alamos 22 (photo87). The room was nice and cozy (photo88), with balcony above patio (photos92&93).

Thank you for this!
I hope to walk this again sometime, and at least pick up where I left off this year, but finding a place to sleep in Manzanares would have been awesome!
 
If anyone is interested, my blog and photos on the Camino Madrid start at this link:
http://www.caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2014/05/in-madrid.html

This is now one of my favorite Caminos -
This year I'll either go back and walk another stage on the VDLP or I'll fly into Madrid, pick up the first two stages and the last 3 and finish this route.
I had to leave early to meet my group in Pamplona.
But Joe finished all the way to Sahagun and he, like I, loved this route!
BTW, I think a person with a small tent or tarp wouldn't have any problems stealth camping on this route.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
DAY 15 (Sat, 05.07.2014)
TAMARIZ DE CAMPOS – CUENCA DE CAMPOS (10,77kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

I don't like soft mattresses or other surfaces for sleeping so I guess that was partly the reason for one of the best nights I've had on Camino de Madrid. I woke up at 8 in totally silent morning. Not a cat in view and deinitely no villagers. Those Spaniards surely know how to enjoy life on Saturdays ;)

When walking towards Cuenca de Campos I was thinking a lot about CSJ guide. I simply don't understand how there are so many mistakes. For example: it has that along Canal de Campos there are resting areas (none!!! on the Camino which runs on the right bank, but there are some on the left bank…), bird watching hides (none!!! – first is only after old mill and turning point for boats 3kms before Tamariz and that is the only one I've seen) etc. And on this glorious and sunny day the story repeated. It's not 8kms, but 10,7kms to Cuenca. Come on…, that's more than 25% miss. I was really soooo angry with the guide sometimes. I mean what is the guidebook for? I think for guiding you, that you believe in it, have a confidence in its information…

Anyway, the camino to Cuenca is along the asphalt road which is truly barely used by cars (photo518). If I remember correctly I've seen only 5 cars in 2 hours. I was also thinking why they've made this particular stretch as the official Camino. Apart from shady path by the canal, at least 3kms to Tamariz and those almost 11kms to Cuenca are nothing to be mentioned about. Next time I would go straight from Medina de Rioseco on disused railroad through Moral de la Reina to Cuenca de Campos. I'm sure that this walk is much nicer. And more Tierra de Campos feeling for sure.

When I came to Cuenca I was charmed immediately. Don't know really why but maybe I've found out that later in the day. I've made a rest stop in Meson la Cañada on the Main Plaza as you come (photos521,523-Bar is where the satellite antenna is &526) where very nice owner Carmina is running kind of a pilgrim »must-stop-point«. Huge collection of photos of pilgrims all framed on the walls under the arcaded patio, sello, all the information on Camino one could need etc. etc. There I've met a bici-peregrino from Villeguillo again. Drank the cheapest beer in 50 days (1,9€ for half a litre). A man called his daughter to open a small tienda on the left in the house of the Ayuntaminto (photo522) when it was already closed. In the evening in the second bar after watching a football match villagers tried to teach me how to play briska and julepe cards, after they've got me drunk, that was really something. Not to mention the municipal albergue with 30 beds in three dormitories, almost professional kitchen, living room with TV, separated bathrooms (in each 2 showers, 2 toilets, 3 sinks, 2 sinks for washing clothes…) for 6€ (photos530&534-536). Just call Santi at 692 101 109. He's fast :D

Beautiful day after all. Similar energy in Cuenca as in Zamarramala or Villeguillo. And nice folks also!!!
 

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DAY 16 (Sun, 06.07.2014)
CUENCA DE CAMPOS – VILLALON DE CAMPOS (6,89kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

I'm ashamed, less than 7kms in one day o_O

But already on leaving the albergue it was raining so I have waited one hour and then I put my poncho on and left Cuneca. Although the way is nice it wasn't really fun walking in torrential rain and strong side wind.

After approx.4,5km Camino (you'll see a line of trees straight ahead on right for approx.500mts at that point) turns left at the crossroad towards Villalon but I haven't seen any marker there. A little bit in doubt I went straight ahead and after 100mts on the left side over the fields I've seen the bell tower of Villalon's church and retraced (photo537).

(I would guess that if you follow tarmac road C-611 out of Cuenca a little bit further on gravel road, which later turns slightly to the right, you'll ended on Villalon's promenade/recreation area. This way Villalon would be probably in sight all the time.)

When I retraced to the crossroads the sky suddenly opened but at the time I've reached Villalon's Plaza Mayor the sky was covered with clouds again and soon the rain went on and on and on… (photos539,542&543). I was »resting« for three hours in front of the bar and then decided to try Albergue very much recommended by the CSJ guide. It's on Calle San Juan, beyond the church on left side. The way from Plaza is clearly marked. Nice elderly couple from San Sebastian were hospitaleros and three more male Spanish pilgrims were there already (photo552). After I took the shower and ate something the clouds opened and I went back to Plaza Mayor and admired Rollo de Justicia (photos545-547).

On Calle la Rua (right if you're standing in front of the church and Rollo) three bars/restaurants were opened on Sunday and even a small tienda further down the same street on the right-hand side. If you don't want to walk back to the center there's a hotel with restaurant opened some 50mts from the albergue. It is the last house in Villalon on the right side of the Camino.
 

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DAY 17 (Mon, 07.07.2014)
VILLALON DE CAMPOS – GRAJAL DE CAMPOS (32,02kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

Woohah, what a day!!!!! I was feeling like flying :D although it was the longest stage on my 900kms Camino. But let's start in the morning.

Previous evening hospitaleros announced that at 8 we will watch start of San Fermin running with the bulls. And so we did (photo553). Before departing hospitalera gave each of us a banana and an apple. So nice! You don't have to take water from albergue because soon after leaving the town there's the fuente (photo554). And I forgot to mention in previous post that there's a kitchen in the albergue.

The morning started beautifully (photos555,556&558). Before Fontihoyuelo traces of yesterdays rain on the gravel road were clearly visible (photo557). All in all very nice walk to Fontihoyuelo for 8,2kms from albergue, although CSJ guide has 9kms but that's probably from the center of Villalon. In Fontihoyuelo there is virtually nothing to mention apart from few benches suitable for resting at the tarmac platform beside the church.

Next stage to Santervas de Campos is much shorter (8,4kms) than the distance in the guide-book (12kms). But even if it would be those 12kms that's fine with me, because the Camino is awsome (photos560,562&565).

Coming to Santervas is easy and way to the Plaza Mayor marked (photos566,568&569 – in next post), but actually just walk straight into the village and there shouldn't be any problem. There are two bars. First is Centro Social few meters down the street from the church and is – attention for smokers! - the only place to buy cigarettes. The second bar is in the house next to the albergue on the right hand side of main Plaza. This bar also provide meals and has a small tienda attached. Here I met three Spaniards again and they've told me that albergue is really nice. One of them speaks some English and he tried to persuade me to stay in Santervas, but the day was so nice and I decided to push on. I wasn't sure whether to go to Melgar de Arriba or Grajal de Campos at first. Bar owner warned me that there weren't any pilgrim beds in Grajal but I was thinking to myself that in this case I could sleep somewhere outside as I've done in Tamariz de Campos.

So I went back down to the Camino (photo570 – in next post) which runs along VP-4013 for 2,5kms where it turns right into the fields. If you stay on tarmac road which veers left that's the way to Melgar de Arriba. After right turn CSJ guide is wrong again because Rio Valderaduey is on the right side of the Camino. You can cross the river at only one point before the village of Arenillas de Valderaduey, but it isn't marked Camino. Also there are 8,2kms and not 6kms to Arenillas (photo571 – in next post) which is very similar to Fontihoyuelo in it's calmness.

At exit from Arenillas there is a fountain and then you cross the Rio Valderaduey so from here to Grajal the river is on your left. First there is a nice gravel road which soon changes into a bit too overgrown wide path (photos572&574 – in next post). Again CSJ has 4kms to Grajal instead of 7,2kms!!! When you come to tarmac road turn right and left into the center of Grajal de Campos (photos575-577 – in next post).
 

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Join the Camino Cleanup in May from Ponferrada to Sarria. Registration closes Mar 22.

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KinkyOne,
I have just noticed this thread and am really enjoying your postings and photos. The landscape and quietness are quite appealing.
Another camino to add to my wish list!
thank you

buen camino
 
KinkyOne,
I have just noticed this thread and am really enjoying your postings and photos. The landscape and quietness are quite appealing.
Another camino to add to my wish list!
thank you

buen camino
Thank you, Norelle!
Two more posts and I'll be at the end of my Camino de Madrid. But will continue with postings on Sahagun-Ponferrada part of CF and Camino de Invierno which I've walked after this one. You're invited to read those too :)

Ultreia!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Adios! I leave in a few hours for the airport! will begin at Plaza de Castilla on Wednesday morning!
Oh, Pam, how I envy you :D
If I'd have a chance I'll packed in an hour and went for another round! Hope you're flights are OK and that you'll be able to rest a while in Madrid. Keep us posted, please!
And if you need anything just ask!

Ultreia!!!
 
GRAJAL DE CAMPOS (Mon, 07.07.2014)

Yes, it's a separate post about that because I think it deserves it. When I came to Grajal's Main Plaza it was kind of deserted but the guy washing his car in the next street show me the way to the second (first is the Meson near the Plaza with exquisite food) bar up the street towards the RENFE station where alcade (mayor) has gone few minutes ago. When I came there with all my gear bar owner didn't seems really happy, but one lady customer understand what I want and called for the alcalde through the window (he just left the bar). When he returned back to the bar's first floor I ordered drinks for both of us and later he took me back down to the Plaza Mayor and the Palacio.

Before entering the Palacio he showed me where tienda was (on the entering, lefthand – probably there will be commercial for ice-cream on the street – if closed ring a bell!) and the second bar (which is already mentioned Meson).

The thing is that they've started with fitting the albergue in Palacio but I guess the economical crisis stopped it. They have already posted that there are 32 beds available in albergue (I have this leaflet if anyone interested) which is not true. Yet… Yes, you can sleep there, but only on the floor for now and if you have the sleeping mat that's OK for him ;) To this point he was just telling me all this. And then we entered Palacio and I was……………., no words to express my feeling and what I've had in my »possesion« for one night. He took me through the main gate for visitors (photo603) and gave me a short tour through Palacio (photos578,580,581,583,585,586&588). At this point I still couldn't believed that he was giving me the key to the entire Palacio to sleep in… But it was true. I was left there to decide where and how I'll manage my sleeping. And he simply said that in the morning I left the key in the mailbox at his house which is on the Camino leaving the town…

Unbelievable. I mean, I was just a very very smelly guy asking for accommodation and here you have – whole Palacio. I've made up my sleeping place behind the reception desk because there was less draft (photo595). And after a while I went discovering… There was nice view over Castelo (photo590), the one all the way to Sahagun (photo591 – in next post), some recognitions (photo593 – in next post) and especially unfinished albergue (photos598-602&606 – in next post).

Unforgettable!!! At almost last stage of Camino de Madrid! Unforgettable and unbelievable! WOW, what an experience!!!
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
GRAJAL DE CAMPOS (Mon, 07.07.2014)

Photos for previous post...
 

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GRAJAL DE CAMPOS (Mon, 07.07.2014)

Yes, it's a separate post about that because I think it deserves it. When I came to Grajal's Main Plaza it was kind of deserted but the guy washing his car in the next street show me the way to the second (first is the Meson near the Plaza with exquisite food) bar up the street towards the RENFE station where alcade (mayor) has gone few minutes ago. When I came there with all my gear bar owner didn't seems really happy, but one lady customer understand what I want and called for the alcalde through the window (he just left the bar). When he returned back to the bar's first floor I ordered drinks for both of us and later he took me back down to the Plaza Mayor and the Palacio.

Before entering the Palacio he showed me where tienda was (on the entering, lefthand – probably there will be commercial for ice-cream on the street – if closed ring a bell!) and the second bar (which is already mentioned Meson).

The thing is that they've started with fitting the albergue in Palacio but I guess the economical crisis stopped it. They have already posted that there are 32 beds available in albergue (I have this leaflet if anyone interested) which is not true. Yet… Yes, you can sleep there, but only on the floor for now and if you have the sleeping mat that's OK for him ;) To this point he was just telling me all this. And then we entered Palacio and I was……………., no words to express my feeling and what I've had in my »possesion« for one night. He took me through the main gate for visitors (photo603) and gave me a short tour through Palacio (photos578,580,581,583,585,586&588). At this point I still couldn't believed that he was giving me the key to the entire Palacio to sleep in… But it was true. I was left there to decide where and how I'll manage my sleeping. And he simply said that in the morning I left the key in the mailbox at his house which is on the Camino leaving the town…

Unbelievable. I mean, I was just a very very smelly guy asking for accommodation and here you have – whole Palacio. I've made up my sleeping place behind the reception desk because there was less draft (photo595). And after a while I went discovering… There was nice view over Castelo (photo590), the one all the way to Sahagun (photo591 – in next post), some recognitions (photo593 – in next post) and especially unfinished albergue (photos598-602&606 – in next post).

Unforgettable!!! At almost last stage of Camino de Madrid! Unforgettable and unbelievable! WOW, what an experience!!!

Absolutely AMAZING! Truly special you could have this experience!
 
DAY 18 (Tue, 08.07.2014)
GRAJAL DE CAMPOS - SAHAGUN (6,69kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

First of all sorry to all those following my comments on CdM for this delay in postings, simply too much work commitments in past days…

After a very good sleep on the ground behind the reception desk in Palacio I went for the last stroll trough it. Just to be sure to remember this opportunity ;) In the evening Alcalde told me to leave the keys in his homehouse mailbox which is on the Camino. So I did and descended to CL-613 from where I admired Grajal fortress some more (photos607&609). Alcalde also told me that it's easy to follow arrows to Sahagun but (un)fortunatelly I haven't seen any. Since you can see Sahagun in distance that wasn't a problem. I just went along CL-613 which has (partly overgrown) gravel path on the left shoulder (photo611). I'm just guessing that if you cross the road and walk by Rio Valderaduey you'll be on Camino, but on the map it seems a bit longer to me.

It's a little bit less than 6kms to Sahagun and after left turn (signs for Casco Antiguo) another 1km to La Peregrina and connection with Camino Frances just after Arco San Benito (photos612-614), where I met more pilgrims resting there than on whole Camino de Madrid. Funny feeling :oops:

I was kind of afraid of crowds but it wasn't that »bad«… For the sake of acclimatisation I went to the Plaza Mayor, bought some things, rest a little and recollect my 2011 Camino Frances for some time (photos615&616).


And so my first Camino de Madrid came to the end. I was happy and sad at the same time. Happy to accomplished something and sad because I liked this Camino VERY much and can only recommend it to others!
The same day I continued on CF towards Ponferrada (and later Camino de Invierno) but will post those in another threads.


Thanks for reading this thread. Hope it will be of some help to future pilgrims!


Ultreia!
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
DAY 18 (Tue, 08.07.2014)
GRAJAL DE CAMPOS - SAHAGUN (6,69kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

First of all sorry to all those following my comments on CdM for this delay in postings, simply too much work commitments in past days…

After a very good sleep on the ground behind the reception desk in Palacio I went for the last stroll trough it. Just to be sure to remember this opportunity ;) In the evening Alcalde told me to leave the keys in his homehouse mailbox which is on the Camino. So I did and descended to CL-613 from where I admired Grajal fortress some more (photos607&609). Alcalde also told me that it's easy to follow arrows to Sahagun but (un)fortunatelly I haven't seen any. Since you can see Sahagun in distance that wasn't a problem. I just went along CL-613 which has (partly overgrown) gravel path on the left shoulder (photo611). I'm just guessing that if you cross the road and walk by Rio Valderaduey you'll be on Camino, but on the map it seems a bit longer to me.

It's a little bit less than 6kms to Sahagun and after left turn (signs for Casco Antiguo) another 1km to La Peregrina and connection with Camino Frances just after Arco San Benito (photos612-614), where I met more pilgrims resting there than on whole Camino de Madrid. Funny feeling :oops:

I was kind of afraid of crowds but it wasn't that »bad«… For the sake of acclimatisation I went to the Plaza Mayor, bought some things, rest a little and recollect my 2011 Camino Frances for some time (photos615&616).


And so my first Camino de Madrid came to the end. I was happy and sad at the same time. Happy to accomplished something and sad because I liked this Camino VERY much and can only recommend it to others!
The same day I continued on CF towards Ponferrada (and later Camino de Invierno) but will post those in another threads.


Thanks for reading this thread. Hope it will be of some help to future pilgrims!


Ultreia!

Thank you so much KinkyOne for this very valuable and detailed info (and wonderful photos) , which I know I will refer to in the future!
 
We are very thankful for the input KinkyOne,
We will return to Madrid and finish as a fall before Segovia a few years ago put us in holiday mode for 3 weeks.
 
GRAJAL DE CAMPOS (Mon, 07.07.2014)

Yes, it's a separate post about that because I think it deserves it. When I came to Grajal's Main Plaza it was kind of deserted but the guy washing his car in the next street show me the way to the second (first is the Meson near the Plaza with exquisite food) bar up the street towards the RENFE station where alcade (mayor) has gone few minutes ago. When I came there with all my gear bar owner didn't seems really happy, but one lady customer understand what I want and called for the alcalde through the window (he just left the bar). When he returned back to the bar's first floor I ordered drinks for both of us and later he took me back down to the Plaza Mayor and the Palacio.

Before entering the Palacio he showed me where tienda was (on the entering, lefthand – probably there will be commercial for ice-cream on the street – if closed ring a bell!) and the second bar (which is already mentioned Meson).

The thing is that they've started with fitting the albergue in Palacio but I guess the economical crisis stopped it. They have already posted that there are 32 beds available in albergue (I have this leaflet if anyone interested) which is not true. Yet… Yes, you can sleep there, but only on the floor for now and if you have the sleeping mat that's OK for him ;) To this point he was just telling me all this. And then we entered Palacio and I was……………., no words to express my feeling and what I've had in my »possesion« for one night. He took me through the main gate for visitors (photo603) and gave me a short tour through Palacio (photos578,580,581,583,585,586&588). At this point I still couldn't believed that he was giving me the key to the entire Palacio to sleep in… But it was true. I was left there to decide where and how I'll manage my sleeping. And he simply said that in the morning I left the key in the mailbox at his house which is on the Camino leaving the town…

Unbelievable. I mean, I was just a very very smelly guy asking for accommodation and here you have – whole Palacio. I've made up my sleeping place behind the reception desk because there was less draft (photo595). And after a while I went discovering… There was nice view over Castelo (photo590), the one all the way to Sahagun (photo591 – in next post), some recognitions (photo593 – in next post) and especially unfinished albergue (photos598-602&606 – in next post).

Unforgettable!!! At almost last stage of Camino de Madrid! Unforgettable and unbelievable! WOW, what an experience!!!

Hi, Kinky,
I am so glad to hear that you were able to sleep in the albergue in Grajal. It's been in the works for such a long time, but it's the crisis, as you say, that has stopped the progress. You might be interested to know that you slept in what used to be the prison cells, so I guess you are probably the happiest person ever to sleep in that part of the fortress. :)

Can't wait to hear about your Invierno. I will probably be going back there next year and am looking forward to hearing how things have changed. And if you got lost on that day out of Monforte before Diamondi like Dan did. Buen camino, Laurie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi, Kinky,
I am so glad to hear that you were able to sleep in the albergue in Grajal. It's been in the works for such a long time, but it's the crisis, as you say, that has stopped the progress. You might be interested to know that you slept in what used to be the prison cells, so I guess you are probably the happiest person ever to sleep in that part of the fortress. :)

Can't wait to hear about your Invierno. I will probably be going back there next year and am looking forward to hearing how things have changed. And if you got lost on that day out of Monforte before Diamondi like Dan did. Buen camino, Laurie

I'll try to continue posting tomorrow but will post Sahagun - Ponferrada also, because this way I'll have kind of my own diary that otherwise most likely wouldn't write :)
In Grajal I didn't actually sleep in albergue-to-be due to drafts. Therefore I found myself a corner behind a reception/information desk which is lefthand right after entering Palacio through huge wooden doors one level up from the Plaza Mayor where entrance to albergue will be as alcalde told me.

For my next camino I'm thinking of three different options:
- combo Via Augusta + VdlP (Sanabres branch) + Muxia/Fisterra,
- combo Vasco Interior + CF + Salvador + Primitivo + Muxia/Fisterra,
- combo Camino Torres + Portugal + Muxia/Fisterra.
Sadly all depends on money...
But if I hit on the lottery I'm on my winter CF within few days :D
 
Thank you! I am challanged with the computer. Not very good at keeping notes either. I just walk, north until I reach the CF. Its a beautitful meditation for me. , May 28th was start day this year. Buen camino!
 
Last edited:
Thank you! I am challanged with the computer. Not very good at keeping notes either. I just walk, north until I reach the CF. Its a beautitful meditation for me. , May 28th was start day this year. Buen camino!
Huh, jerbear, are you walking the same Madrid/Frances/Invierno combination for the last three years???
If that's so you really must be in love with it ;)

Ultreia!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Yes, This year I did a switch up and walked the cf from sahgun to santiago. too many people. Next year may be the mardid to oviedo then the primativo into santiago
 
I forgot this yesterday :)
HOW TO FIND SRA.ELA'S HOUSE IN MANZANARES EL REAL:

When you come to Manzanares before the old bridge there are arrows pointing you left to municipal/parrochial albergue (still closed) and further on Camino towards Mataelpino. Don't take it, go straight on to the Plaza Mayor and just proceed on its lower end into Calle Cañada. When you see this house with big fig tree (c/Cañada 45) in the patio you're already there (photo86), but turn left uphill before it and right and you're on Calle Alamos 22 (photo87). The room was nice and cozy (photo88), with balcony above patio (photos92&93).

Hola K1!

I had planned to stay at the house where you stayed last summer, but as you know I went on to Mataelpino. When I asked the nice woman at the tourist office about staying there, she told me that the fee to stay with Sra. Elo (not Ela, she corrected me several times) was 22€. This may be inflation, here in Spain, or perhaps you got the "nice guy discount" or because you stayed more than one day (didn't you)? It's nice to be able push on to stay in Mataelpino (if not too tired) and support this new albergue. It's always good to have options.
 
Hola K1!

I had planned to stay at the house where you stayed last summer, but as you know I went on to Mataelpino. When I asked the nice woman at the tourist office about staying there, she told me that the fee to stay with Sra. Elo (not Ela, she corrected me several times) was 22€. This may be inflation, here in Spain, or perhaps you got the "nice guy discount" or because you stayed more than one day (didn't you)? It's nice to be able push on to stay in Mataelpino (if not too tired) and support this new albergue. It's always good to have options.
Your right, it might be inflation or 15€ is a pilgrim price because that's the info I had and so it was. I think the price was such regardless of two nights stay.
But... if I will go on CdM (and I hope so very much) again I'd start on the outskirts of Madrid, save at least 10kms and push to Colmenar Viejo for the first day. That would give me nice very doable distance to Mataelpino the second day. Although I did like Manzanares very much :)

If you don't want to sleep in Cercedilla polideportivo you can add to already mentioned 13kms approx.3kms to the hostel on the other side of town which will shorten the stage over Fuenfria pass ;)
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Your right, it might be inflation or 15€ is a pilgrim price because that's the info I had and so it was. I think the price was such regardless of two nights stay.
But... if I will go on CdM (and I hope so very much) again I'd start on the outskirts of Madrid, save at least 10kms and push to Colmenar Viejo for the first day. That would give me nice very doable distance to Mataelpino the second day. Although I did like Manzanares very much :)

If you don't want to sleep in Cercedilla polideportivo you can add to already mentioned 13kms approx.3kms to the hostel on the other side of town which will shorten the stage over Fuenfria pass ;)

Yes, K1! Right this minute, I was studying your descriptions and thinking of maybe Skype-ing ahead to that hostel, especially if there is no bed or heat in the polideportivo. A storm passed through last night and it has been quite cold when not moving..... Also, it will be a shorter walk tomorrow, and as you say, it will make the next day easier if I add on 3 km more. Also, I am considering going to Valsain, but will decide tomorrow.

I thank you so much for all your work in writing up your camino last year. Without it I would be making so many [more] mistakes than I already have!

Maya
 
Yes, K1! Right this minute, I was studying your descriptions and thinking of maybe Skype-ing ahead to that hostel, especially if there is no bed or heat in the polideportivo. A storm passed through last night and it has been quite cold when not moving..... Also, it will be a shorter walk tomorrow, and as you say, it will make the next day easier if I add on 3 km more. Also, I am considering going to Valsain, but will decide tomorrow.

I thank you so much for all your work in writing up your camino last year. Without it I would be making so many [more] mistakes than I already have!

Maya
These are contact numbers I have about Albergue Juvenil in Cercedilla from last year:

A (72pl, Albergue Juvenil »Villa Castora«,
918/520334 or 918/522411 or 918/521267,
Carretera de las Dehesas s/n,
alb.juv.villacastora@madrid.org, 3km out of town)

You can make many more mistakes but choosing this Camino for sure isn't one ;)
 
These are contact numbers I have about Albergue Juvenil in Cercedilla from last year:

A (72pl, Albergue Juvenil »Villa Castora«,
918/520334 or 918/522411 or 918/521267,
Carretera de las Dehesas s/n,
alb.juv.villacastora@madrid.org, 3km out of town)

You can make many more mistakes but choosing this Camino for sure isn't one ;)
¡Claro que sí! Exactly, you are right. Thanks for your support and encouragement!

Maya
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Hola, Maya,
How are you doing? Stopped in Valsain or pushed all the way to Segovia?

B.
Hola amigo

I stopped in Valsain, visiting Segovia today, sleeping in Zamarramala tonight.
Have fat, swollen feet, but yesterday I met some nice people, including my first perogrinas (from France) and a cute puppy at Fuenfria and I threw a snowball!

Tomorrow to Santa Maria la Real, if I can get some sleep tonight! Thanks for checking up on me. Life is good!

Maya
 
DAY 04 (Tue, 24.06.2014)

CERCEDILLA - VALSAIN (27,92kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

But real disappointment was yet to come. There should be an albergue in Valsain. I've made a mistake and didn't phone earlier. When I called the number of the albergue a man responded and told me that I've called a hotel in Segovia (???) and that albergue in Valsain is closed. I could've walked another few kilometers to La Granja de San Ildefonso's Albergue Turistico but my feet were already like over-cooked potatoes… So I paid 25€ for a small but nice and clean room in Hostal El Torreon (http://www.hostaleltorreon.com/).
;)

Here is our experience walking to Valsain, along with photos:

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2014/05/to-segovia.html

We didn't sleep there, but caught a quick and inexpensive bus to Segovia, where I'd made reservations for the night. You catch the bus right in the square where you walk into the village.

I don't know if it was the climb or I was just terribly out of shape, but that 22 k into Valsain felt like a million miles on the downside of the hill.
 
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When you thinking of going Annie? As you probably know it can get a bit difficult towards the end of the year.

Hi Al. I just saw this. Sorry.
I was unable to go last year because of my ankle.
I'm planning on being in Madrid around April 17 and starting out then, doing the entire route again, picking up the last few stages I missed.

As far as getting out of Colmenar, I blogged very good directions along with photos, from the Hostal El Chiscon, if anybody is interested. Here is the link:

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2014/05/to-manzanares.html
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I don't think I could have made it Kinky.
I was exhausted by the time I got to Valsain.
I'm a wimp I guess :rolleyes::oops:
I'm sure staying at Albergue Turistico on the other end of Cercedilla (which makes next day over the Fuenfria Pass 3kms shorter) would help a lot going directly to Segovia. Another option is Albergue in La Granja, should try that one out someday in future ;)
 
I'm sure staying at Albergue Turistico on the other end of Cercedilla (which makes next day over the Fuenfria Pass 3kms shorter) would help a lot going directly to Segovia. Another option is in Albergue in La Granja, should try that one out someday in future ;)

I may try that.
My walking partner and I are working up the schedule now.
 
I may try that.
My walking partner and I are working up the schedule now.
There is at least one more possible overnight stay after Cercedilla and before Fuenfria Pass but I'm almost sure that's reserved for children/school groups. If you remember some sheds and larger stone/wooden house in the woods to the right some 50mts from the track?
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
There is at least one more possible overnight stay after Cercedilla and before Fuenfria Pass but I'm almost sure that's reserved for children/school groups. If you remember some sheds and larger stone/wooden house in the woods to the right some 50mts from the track?
Hi K1

Is that the youth hostel calling itself Albergue Villa Castora? It is not an albergue, it is a youth hostel, and we stayed there on a Friday night when all the school kids had gone home for the weekend. Much more pricy than an albergue, but cheaper if you are a member of Youth Hostels International.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
 
There is at least one more possible overnight stay after Cercedilla and before Fuenfria Pass but I'm almost sure that's reserved for children/school groups. If you remember some sheds and larger stone/wooden house in the woods to the right some 50mts from the track?
Hi K1

Is that the youth hostel calling itself Albergue Villa Castora? It is not an albergue, it is a youth hostel, and we stayed there on a Friday night when all the school kids had gone home for the weekend. Much more pricy than an albergue, but cheaper if you are a member of Youth Hostels International.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
I think you two are talking about two different things. Villa Castora is on the left of the road up from Cercedilla. I've stayed there, and we got the reduced hostel price with our credenciales. We had rooms with two beds, there are a few of them off to the left when you enter, and the woman at the desk told us they tended to keep them for pilgrims. (Thats a very nice perk when the place is overrun with joyous youngsters who never seem to need to sleep). This one is run by the Comunidad de Madrid (greater Madrid) government.

http://www.madrid.org/cs/Satellite?..._FA/JUVE_alojamiento&rootpageid=1152517028736

Further up the hill and on the right is the other one, it must be this one (apparently also run by the Madrid government, but I don't know if they let pilgrims in or not):
http://www.madrid.org/cs/Satellite?..._FA/JUVE_alojamiento&rootpageid=1152517028736
 
I think you two are talking about two different things. Villa Castora is on the left of the road up from Cercedilla. I've stayed there, and we got the reduced hostel price with our credenciales. We had rooms with two beds, there are a few of them off to the left when you enter, and the woman at the desk told us they tended to keep them for pilgrims. (Thats a very nice perk when the place is overrun with joyous youngsters who never seem to need to sleep). This one is run by the Comunidad de Madrid (greater Madrid) government.

http://www.madrid.org/cs/Satellite?..._FA/JUVE_alojamiento&rootpageid=1152517028736

Further up the hill and on the right is the other one, it must be this one (apparently also run by the Madrid government, but I don't know if they let pilgrims in or not):
http://www.madrid.org/cs/Satellite?..._FA/JUVE_alojamiento&rootpageid=1152517028736
Thanks for your reply Laurie.

It looks like I got the name wrong then, as the place we stayed in was definitely on the right. There was no reduced price from having a credential. I got a reduced price because I am a member of Youth Hostels of Australia [one of the older ones] but my 2 companions both had to join International Youth Hostels in order to stay there. They were very welcoming and when we said that we were leaving too early to have breakfast in the morning they gave us a packed meal to take with us. We had a room with 2 double bunks and other than the cost we were more than happy that we stayed there.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Thanks for your reply Laurie.

It looks like I got the name wrong then, as the place we stayed in was definitely on the right. There was no reduced price from having a credential. I got a reduced price because I am a member of Youth Hostels of Australia [one of the older ones] but my 2 companions both had to join International Youth Hostels in order to stay there. They were very welcoming and when we said that we were leaving too early to have breakfast in the morning they gave us a packed meal to take with us. We had a room with 2 double bunks and other than the cost we were more than happy that we stayed there.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
Hi, Alan, I had never heard from anyone who stayed in the place on the right, but I remember thinking when I went by early in the morning that it looked nice. I thought the place on the left was fine, though it didn't open till very late, probably 5 pm if I remember correctly. We ate our dinner there rather than go back into town, which was probably not the best idea. But it is nice to start out in the morning already a km or two up the hill, since it's such a long day into Segovia. Buen camino, Laurie
 
@Alan Pearce @peregrina2000
Albergue Vila Castora is on the left and Youth Hostel further up the trail on the right as Laurie posted. I didn't know the house on the righthand side is actually Youth Hostel, I just saw bunch of kids doing different things in groups that might be also scouts. Not clearly visible because of the trees. So now we figured out another mystery ;)
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
But luckily new mysteries will continue to arise, otherwise we will become a very boring forum! Laurie
@KinkyOne @Peregrina 2000

Thank you both for setting me straight. We were ringing the number for the Villa Castora as we walked out of town and they told us that we could not get in until 5pm. Somehow we walked straight past it and ended up at the Youth Hostel at about 3.30pm, thinking we were at the Villa Castora, and were puzzled, but pleased, when they allowed us immediate admission!

We were the only 3 people staying in the hostel, but the kitchen staff supplied us with a lovely 3 course meal [albeit not until 8.30pm, and without any wine because their status as a youth hostel forbade any alcohol]. They offered us breakfast at 8am next morning but when we declined because we wanted to leave much earlier they gave us each a pack consisting of 3 types of fruit, 2 packs of juice. toast, and a bread role with cheese. There was passable coffee in a machine, and so fortified we headed off to climb the mountain, but at least with a good head start as we were already a fair distance on our way.

Even so we were very weary by the time we reached Segovia, only to find that there was a festival in town and there were no beds available anywhere. So we dragged ourselves to Zamarramala, where we stayed in the free albergue, and had a lovely night.

Thanks again

Alan
 
@KinkyOne @Peregrina 2000

Thank you both for setting me straight. We were ringing the number for the Villa Castora as we walked out of town and they told us that we could not get in until 5pm. Somehow we walked straight past it and ended up at the Youth Hostel at about 3.30pm, thinking we were at the Villa Castora, and were puzzled, but pleased, when they allowed us immediate admission!

We were the only 3 people staying in the hostel, but the kitchen staff supplied us with a lovely 3 course meal [albeit not until 8.30pm, and without any wine because their status as a youth hostel forbade any alcohol]. They offered us breakfast at 8am next morning but when we declined because we wanted to leave much earlier they gave us each a pack consisting of 3 types of fruit, 2 packs of juice. toast, and a bread role with cheese. There was passable coffee in a machine, and so fortified we headed off to climb the mountain, but at least with a good head start as we were already a fair distance on our way.

Even so we were very weary by the time we reached Segovia, only to find that there was a festival in town and there were no beds available anywhere. So we dragged ourselves to Zamarramala, where we stayed in the free albergue, and had a lovely night.

Thanks again

Alan
Thanks Alan, will have to try this one once because it is in beautiful environment and few kilometers closer to Segovia than municipal Polideportivo.
 
Yes, I think I would try the second albergue also, because as Kinky says, it is 2.5 km from Cercedilla, and every km closer to Segovia makes the next day a little bit easier. I also agree with Kinky that the physical environment looked quite nice -- wooded and peaceful!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I'm curio
@KinkyOne @Peregrina 2000

Thank you both for setting me straight. We were ringing the number for the Villa Castora as we walked out of town and they told us that we could not get in until 5pm. Somehow we walked straight past it and ended up at the Youth Hostel at about 3.30pm, thinking we were at the Villa Castora, and were puzzled, but pleased, when they allowed us immediate admission!
n

So are Villa Castora and the youth hostel two different places?
Are they both near Cercedilla?
Which is preferred?
Prices?
Email?

Also is there an email address for the lady in Manzanares?
If not, do we just take a chance on whether or not we get a room there?
Yikes!
 
So are Villa Castora and the youth hostel two different places?
Are they both near Cercedilla?
Which is preferred?
Prices?
Email?

Annie, see my post in #156 above. There are two youth hostels. One is Villa Castora, the first on the left on your way up from Cercedilla, about a km from town (this is the one I stayed in). The second is Las Dehesas, on the right and about 2.5 km outside Cercedilla (this is the one Alan stayed in). The links have prices and other information. Buen camino, Laurie
 
KO thanks for these marvellous posts. This is truly a beautiful "no roads" route. It is growing in popularity and obviously pilgrims needs up to date information.

Some years ago I produced the CSJ guide which eventually Max updated and included elevation profiles. But guides do go out of date and this one clearly needs a substantial revision. It seems to me from what you have written you have done a lot of that work already. So how about taking on the editorship of the guide? Go on - we need you! I'll help and I'm sure Laurie will too.

Message or email me if you are interested.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Annie, see my post in #156 above. There are two youth hostels. One is Villa Castora, the first on the left on your way up from Cercedilla, about a km from town (this is the one I stayed in). The second is Las Dehesas, on the right and about 2.5 km outside Cercedilla (this is the one Alan stayed in). The links have prices and other information. Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks Laurie.

I guess my eyes were just buggy from working yesterday. I had looked through the posts but couldn't find the link for Las Dehesas. The email address for Villa Castora bounced back, but I did find their website. Looks like their rooms are booked up for the night I'm there. So are rooms in Cercedilla. I wonder what's happening the weekend of April 19?

UPDATE: I had put in the wrong email address. I'll let you know what they say about reservations. I wrote both places.

Also, if you're looking at those website links, you must scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the information.
 
Last edited:
DAY 05 (Wed, 25.06.2014)
VALSAIN – ZAMARRAMALA (18,19kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

PART 01

First I walked down the Av.Fernandez Ladreda (photo186), past Iglesia de San Millan (photo189), watching storks while taking a break in the park (photo193).

To be continued...
Wow! That is a gorgeous photo of that stork!
I'm justing getting around to reading this all the way through.
If you do this route again, the Alcazar and Cathedral in Segovia are both amazing!
I'm getting excited !!!! ::::jumping up and down::::
 
DAY 07 (Fri, 27.06.2014)
AÑE – NAVA DE LA ASUNCION (29,69kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

PART 02
Margerita arranged everything for me. I was sent to Casa de Cultura (photo297) where her friend Conchi (secretary in Casa de C.) was expecting me. An hour later (8PM) a man brought brand new mattress and Conchi took me up to the second floor into one of the classrooms (photo299). (Only cold) shower was across the corridor, I was given the keys to the whole building (»left them in the mailbox in the morning« - I've told you, it is going to happen more often, hahaha) and I was told to be the first person to sleep in their Casa de Cultura EVER!

WOW! And they have certain specialist right across the street (photo300). What else a tired pilgrim could want :p Two markets in the near, few bars/restaurants, Casa de Cultura on Camino, pharmacy, psychiatrist – complete service…

In the evening I have had my dinner by the opened window, with the best wi-fi on my whole Camino and listening ska-punk concert from the bar nearby. The concert was over at 2AM and I've slept like a baby…

I'm trying to figure out the DATE you were there. Now I see it was 27 June. I was SHOCKED that the albergue was closed because it is HUGE. We were the only two people there. Margarita is a kick, isn't she?! I'm so glad she helped you out!
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
DAY 09 (Sun, 29.06.2014)
VILLEGUILLO - ALCAZAREN (19,66kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724
.

In Alcazaran, stop at the TI and ask for "Victor."
He has the keys to the FANTASTIC church there.
I know, I know... you've seen a million churches.
But nothing like this.
See my blog for photos.
The local Priests, for years, wondered what the kids were talking about when they said there were "pictures" behind the retablo...
It was apparently too close a space for an adult to get back there.
One day they looked ...
Now they know...
http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2014/05/to-alcazaran.html
 
DAY 10 (Mon, 30.06.2014)
ALCAZAREN – PUENTE DUERO (27,01kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

Another 10,5kms to Puente Duero runs along VA-VP-9003 and was for me the most unpleasant part of Camino de Madrid. No wonder I haven't take a single photo on that stretch… Also my blister started to develop again.
.

This is the ONLY place on the Camino Madrid that we got lost, and buddy we REALLY got lost!
Everyone going that way should read this!

You leave Valdestillas.
You turn Right, across the street from the RR station.
You go over a bridge.
And then... across a highway is a forested area and bigger than life is a YELLOW ARROW!!!!
IGNORE IT!
We crossed over and followed that path for miles, through the forest, into another valley, WAY out of our way.
We finally hit a highway and had to turn back to find Puente Duero.
It sucked.
We were exhausted by the time we got there, and then had to walk BACK into the village to find food.
ACK! It was probably for us the most unpleasant day as well.
I'm not looking forward to doing it again, based on what you're saying... maybe it's a good place to catch a taxi!
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
DAY 11 (Tue, 01.07.2014)
PUENTE DUERO - CIGUĂ‘UELA (15,10kms)

https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724

If you want to drink or eat something I saw two bars/restaurants. Both on the street that goes uphill directly from Ayunamiento/Post office at main plaza towards the church. First one shortly on the right side and the second a bit later by the church on the left side. As I remembered AnnieSantiago recommended it but I haven't tried because in got quite busy in the first one ;)

We ate at Meson Mielga. 10 Euros for the Menu del Dia. It was fantastic. Photos here: http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2014/05/to-cigunuela.html
 
Hello KinkyOne,
I'm just home from the Camino de Madrid where I used your notes as my guide book.
A big gracias for being my pleasant (and only) companion.

Cheers

Andy
 
Staggerlee, how did you like the CdeM??
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Hi Phillypilgrim,

I'm still digesting the experience but can say that it was a positive one. I was looking for a quiet, scenic route and certainly found that (along with spectacular skies, sticky mud.......and storks).
It would be nice to see a few more folks showing this camino some love.
 
Hello KinkyOne,
I'm just home from the Camino de Madrid where I used your notes as my guide book.
A big gracias for being my pleasant (and only) companion.

Cheers

Andy
I'm glad to hear that :)
Maybe you'll take me along again when I post my Levante/Sanabres from last year or Bayona/CF/Salvador/Primitivo which I'm walking right now for past four days.


So maybe .... :)
 
Buen Camino, companero.
Please don't hang around with your report as I'm planning the Salvador/Primitivo for October :)
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Buen Camino, companero.
Please don't hang around with your report as I'm planning the Salvador/Primitivo for October :)
Well, you know, Andy,
You don't really need my updates on Salvador and Primitivo.
I'm sure these two are already out of "less walked" group of Caminos. :)
 
Yes, finally, after three years of suffering on this forum :p

It's my plan to continue on CF and Invierno but will post about that in appropriate sections.
I'll be in Madrid morning of 18th June and will start from the center of the city on 20th June. Because I'm on a tight budget I reserved myself a bunk bed in Backpackers Hostel (18€ for 2 nights) very close to Plaza de Espana. That will also give me a chance to adapt for further nights at albergues I guess ;)

My planned stages are:
- Day01: Tres Cantos (23km)
- Day02: Manzanares del Real (27km)
- Day03: Cercedilla (19km)
- Day04: Segovia (31km)
- Day05: Segovia - non walking day :rolleyes:
- Day06: Ane or Santa Maria de... (depends on albergue in Ane, weather, laziness after Segovia,...)
- Day07: Coca (54km from Segovia)
- Day08: Alcazaren (25km)
- Day09: Puente Duero (25km)
- Day10: Penaflor de... (26km)
- Day11: Medina de... (24km)
- Day12: Villalon de... (24km)
- Day13: Santervas (21km)
- Day14: pass Sahagun and stop already on CF in Bercianos del... (28km)

Well, that's the plan but I won't hold back to change it. Altogether with CF and CdI I have 5 days in reserve. I calculated the stages as shown partly because of the distances (to be as similar as possible from day to day) and also on availability of albergues and other infrastructure in villages.

To be able to post comments about the route etc. I'll buy one of those smart gadgets. Well, THAT will be a real challenge for me, an IT idiot :D

If someone of you have any comments it will be much appreciated. And if someone plan to walk in the same time PM me or say Hi to a 43yo male with eye glasses, moustaches and short beard. I'll carry red-white-silver-black backpack with two forum badges on my back and black hip photo pack in front (see the picture attached).

Have a nice day! I will sure do ;)

Hello,

You say that you have the correct distances for the Madrid by measuring them yourself, and that they differ from the guides' indications. Do you know anything of the Salvador and the Primitivo - can I count on the distances in the guides? (For example Eroski website)

/BP
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hello,

You say that you have the correct distances for the Madrid by measuring them yourself, and that they differ from the guides' indications. Do you know anything of the Salvador and the Primitivo - can I count on the distances in the guides? (For example Eroski website)

/BP
Hi, BP!

I measured Madrid with Endomondo which slightly exagerate the distances as I have seen compared with Wikiloc on just finished Via de Bayona.

Yesterday we met quite incidentaly with Laurie (@peregrina2000) in the corridor of the same hostal in Leon :)
The plan is to start Salvador tomorrow and I can tell you about the distances.

K1
 
Yesterday we met quite incidentaly with Laurie (@peregrina2000) in the corridor of the same hostal in Leon :)
The plan is to start Salvador tomorrow and I can tell you about the distances.

K1


Buen Camino to you both - I am quite envious!
 
Hi, BP!

I measured Madrid with Endomondo which slightly exagerate the distances as I have seen compared with Wikiloc on just finished Via de Bayona.

Yesterday we met quite incidentaly with Laurie (@peregrina2000) in the corridor of the same hostal in Leon :)
The plan is to start Salvador tomorrow and I can tell you about the distances.

K1

Good,

Are you going for the Primitivo as well? Or Laurie?
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
As promissed more than two months ago I'll post some of my remarks on Camino de Madrid. I came to Madrid on 18th of June in the middle of King's resigning/coronation festivities. Maybe that was the reason Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan was closed and I couldn't get pilgrim's credential. I allowed myself a day and a half of aclimatisation and started on 20th of June from Plaza de Espana, actually directly from the doorstep of Hostal Residencia Universitaria ARTI on Gran Via where I paid 9€/night in mixed dormitory with 3 bunkbeds.

Although I've had some rain on the way, which I don' particularly like while walking, the weather was just brilliant, with over 35 centigrade first three days and a bit more moderate (around 25-30C) temperatures after Segovia. Mornings were quite cool, sometimes even just 7C and few severe afternoon storms went by which was the main reason for 17 days that took me to walk it.

I was using CSJ guide 2013 by Max Long which I found very very basic and not really reliable in descriptions and especially not in distances. My Endomondo GPS recorder usually tracked more kilometers and just in one case almost only half the distance in the guide :) I don't find that really a big deal it's just annoying and makes you wonder all the time whether you did the right plan for next day(s). That was of importance for me because I was on a budget and wanted to use municipal albergues as much as possible.

The Camino is mostly sufficiently marked but as usual there are no arrows when you need them :( At the moment I remember two such spots but I'll mentioned more of them in day-by-day posts. I will use distances recorded by Endomondo from distinctive points like Plaza Mayor, Iglesia, Bar, Albergue etc. and from there on, because I don't find distances measured roughly from end of one village to the entrance of the second village really accurate. Sometimes (more commonly on Camino de Invierno) those villages can be 2kms long not to speak about cities like Madrid, Segovia or Sahagun.

In general I liked the whole way but enjoyed wast Tierra de Campos (= Meseta) and huge Pinarios (pine forrests) the most. It took me 371,54kms from Plaza de Espana in Madrid to joining Camino Frances just past the Arco San Benito in Sahagun. Total ascent was 7957mts and total descent 8565mts so one would think that mostly it's downhill but it is not entirely so ;) The people along the way aren't really used to see pilgrims (I've met only 6 bicigrinos and 6 peregrinos on 4 out of 17 days!!!) but are nicer and more eager to help than folks along Camino Frances in my opinion. As you probably already know pilgrims accommodation is scarce before Segovia and adequate afterwards so you can really choose how long stages you're going to walk.

I will try to attach photos that illustrate those orientation challenging parts (and also some really nice parts) of this route the best. The link to my Endomondo history (https://www.endomondo.com/workouts/360990724) will be added, but I have to appologize because I don't know really how to extract GPS track from them. Just click on the date for certain stage and from the maps and graphs beneath them you can see exactly the route I was walking, distance, height etc.

Enjoy…

PS (Oh, maybe I figured it out. There is a file in gpx. format attached. Would be nice if someone who's more into GPS could confirm if it could be of any help. I have also tcx. file but couldn't be uploaded. Thanks!)

Hi,

I'm leaving in 2 days... How did you hear about Sra Ela's albergue in Manzanares? It's not on the list of accomodations as of 2016. Nor in the Max Long guide from 2013. Did you have a particular list with the albergues?

/BP
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Just finished Camino de Madrid! I will write about it when I get back home. I have a few things to say about the CJS guide as well. Bye for now!
Looking forward to your thoughts!
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Looking forward to your thoughts!

I`m flying home today, then I will sit down to recollect my thoughts & the notes I took along the way. But as I´m in front of a computer right now, still in Santiago by the way, I´ll take the time to say a few words:

Waymarks: excellent for 75 % of the camino but they withered away somewhat towards the end (towards Sahagún). Except for that, I belive it´s the best marked Camino after the Francés! Or what do you all think?

Scenery: fantastic before Segovia, and even a few stages after. But the meseta was soooo monotonous and I suffered from severe boredom during the 2nd half to SahagĂşn.

Albergues: for so few pilgrims, very good infrastructure. But I am picky and preferred hostels whenever it was possible...

Number of pilgrims: Whenever I stayed in albergues I was alone, or with cylists. Except from when I was in Santa María Real de la Nieva, where we were 4 walkers and 1 cyclist. I didn´t see them the day after. So a few cyclists yes, but almost no walkers before Sahagún. I knew there would be at least some people here on the Forum starting just before or just after me from Madrid, but I surely never coincided with any of them...

Stages: I did this in 10 stages which was a bit hard. I got sick a few days because I did a stage that was far too long. If I would do it again I think 12-14 stages would be more comfortable.

More to come!!!

BP
 
Wow @KinkyOne
What a wealth of information.
I have read it before, but with a little more than a week until I leave Oz, I’m reading and re reading as much info as possible. How did you find time to document all this ?
A huge Thankyou
Annie
 
Wow @KinkyOne
What a wealth of information.
I have read it before, but with a little more than a week until I leave Oz, I’m reading and re reading as much info as possible. How did you find time to document all this ?
A huge Thankyou
Annie
Thanks, Annie :)

I guess I wasn't as lazy as I was in 2015 (Levante & Sanabres) and 2016 (Via de Bayona, Salvador & Ingles) when I posted almost nothing.
I will send you a PM now.

K1
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery

Most read last week in this forum

Hi everybody, Which is the best way by foot : Uclès to Madrid or Madrid to Uclès (in july !)? And where find informations about accomodation ? Thank you

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