First stage on the Zamorano-Portugués

[peregrina2000]

I see only two other threads for the Zamorano-Portugués in this sub-forum, but it is a camino that has got me thinking. I have found this document, with a list of albergues and other accommodation.

Not sure I’m up for a night on the floor (Stage 1). Putting together the info from the document shown below and the document @J Willhaus attached in this thread, it looks like there is floor space available in two towns near the end of the first stage — Valdeperdices and Almendra. @Kiwi-family slept in Valdeperdices. An albergue has been planned in Almendra for a long time but I see no evidence that it has opened.

Any ideas about non-floor sleeping options or ways to deviate from the official route?

@alansykes came at it from a different direction — walked to Montamarta on the Sanabrés and then went to Ricobayo via San Pedro de la Nave. (google maps shows Montamarta to San Pedro is 18, then San Pedro to Ricobayo is 13). That may be the most attractive option for those who want to avoid sleeping on the floor if possible (I will not carry a mat), and who want to see this gem of a church along the way. But I don’t see Alan’s tracks and can’t find anything else about how that route goes.

There is a also route of about 30 km direct from Zamora to Ricobayo, you can see wikiloc tracks here.

Camino de Braganza - 01 - Zamora-Ricobayo

Camino de Braganza - 01 - Zamora-Ricobayo Hiking trail in San Lázaro, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. NOTA: Mas abajo esta el resumen de todas las etapas, hospedaje, restaurantes, etc. Mi opinion personal; En la parte portuguesa es un camino...

www.wikiloc.com

This route doesn’t loop up to Valdeperdices or Almendra. That looks fine, but Ricobayo is about 15 km from San Pedro de la Nave. I’ve visited San Pedro once (the hospitalero in the Zamora albergue took me out in his car), but I would very much like to walk to see if it possible.

So, my basic question, with all these options swirling in my head, does anyone have additional info for me to throw in the mix for Stage 1?

I suppose there’s always the taxi back to Zamora option, and then taxi out again to Valdeperdices the next day, but I would like to avoid that if possible.

Yes, I am thinking about Camino 2024!

 

[Kiwi-family]

I too am planning 2024 (Almeria to Muxia I think)...and couldn't help but consider detouring via San Pedro de la Nive, because it is such a little gem. Interested to hear if anyone has a different solution to the hard floor in Valdeperdices!

In spite of the floor, I have fond memories of a very welcoming community who engaged with us (not in the bar, but those outside did!!) I imagine this gentleman who was already 96 in 2016 is no longer there.

 

[peregrina2000]

I too am planning 2024 (Almeria to Muxia I think)...and couldn't help but consider detouring via San Pedro de la Nive, because it is such a little gem

Thanks, Rachel.

Are you thinking about walking the Zamorano-Portugués, or will you do what you did last time -- from Zamora to Valdeperdices to Montamarta (and then onward on the Sanabrés)?

 

[J Willhaus]

The church was closed up when we were there over Christmas 2017. My Spanish was so poor that even when I called the phone number on the door that I could not make myself understood.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Thanks, Rachel.

Are you thinking about walking the Zamorano-Portugués, or will you do what you did last time -- from Zamora to Valdeperdices to Montamarta (and then onward on the Sanabrés)?

I'm not sure....I actually just assumed I would skip the San Pedro detour this time, but now you have me wondering. I love how my plans come together based on random comments and questions here and there. Off to check the stage possibilities now. If I recall, @alansykes left a thorough commentary a few years back. Hopefully little has changed since then (other than some new places opening, perhaps)

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm not sure....I actually just assumed I would skip the San Pedro detour this time, but now you have me wondering.

I think that Alan Sykes had an excellent idea — Day 1, Zamora to Montamarta. Day 2, Montamarta to San Pedro to Ricobayo. About 31 kms. This will be feasible, though, only if you have chosen the Zamorano over the Sanabrés. Too many decisions!

I’m hoping Alan will chime in here to add a few more details of how it went for him. I just can’t find anything on wikiloc!

 

[alansykes]

I was coming south from Benavente on the Via de la Plata when I stopped at Montamarta to detour onto the CZP. From Montamarta you can go, mostly off road (dirt tracks), to Palacios del Pan, on to Almendra and San Pedro, then along the reservoir until you cross the Esla's dam to Ricobayo. A fairly easy day of ~30km. Unfortunately I was having problems with my mobile's battery, so didn't manage to record my tracks on wikiloc, but it was all fairly straightforward.

 

[Kiwi-family]

If you're travelling from Zamora I would say there's no need to go up to Montamarta. I'd just head straight west from Zamora via La Hiniesta to see the church there (although it was closed when we were there), stopping at Valdeperdices for the night if you wanted, or going on to San Pedro and Ricobayo the same day. In the absence of Wikitracks, googlemaps suggests it's a bit of a long day:

But overnighting in Valdeperdices is probably a good idea if you actually want to visit the church. Opening hours are 10:30 to 1:30 and 5-8 every day except Monday. That said, it's only 23km to the church from the albergue in Zamora so if you're a quick walker and happy for an early start, you could make it there by midday.

 

[Kiwi-family]

One other possibility to get round a long first stage (for non-purists only) would be to take a taxi to La Hiniesta and then walk from there. That keeps it under 30km (just).

 

[peregrina2000]

If you're travelling from Zamora I would say there's no need to go up to Montamarta.

So here’s how I see it — From Zamora to Ricobayo is going to be two days no matter how you slice it. I am just not up for a 40 km day with a visit to a church that deserves lingering added on.

One way would be to go Zamora to Montamarta on day one. Then day two, go visit San Pedro and continue to Ricobayo. The other way would be to go to Valdeperdices, sleep on the floor, and then continue the next day to San Pedro and on to Ricobayo.

But your mat idea is a good one, too! Buy a mat in Zamora, sleep on the floor in Valdeperdices, and leave the mat there for future pilgrims.

 

[J Willhaus]

So here’s how I see it — From Zamora to Ricobayo is going to be two days no matter how you slice it. I am just not up for a 40 km day with a visit to a church that deserves lingering added on.

One way would be to go Zamora to Montamarta on day one. Then day two, go visit San Pedro and continue to Ricobayo. The other way would be to go to Valdeperdices, sleep on the floor, and then continue the next day to San Pedro and on to Ricobayo.

But your mat idea is a good one, too! Buy a mat in Zamora, sleep on the floor in Valdeperdices, and leave the mat there for future pilgrims.

Mats are still not that soft, but better than the hard floor. We gave up that kind of sleeping on the ground camping about 10 years ago although I would still gladly sleep on a mat at Grañón or Viana...

 

[Kiwi-family]

I would still gladly sleep on a mat at Grañón or Viana...

...or Valdeperdices????