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First Time Pilgrim - Starting in Burgos on 9/16

ElizabethB8246

New Member
Looking for advice from other pilgrims on starting in Burgos - I plan to arrive in Burgos on the 16th and start walking on the 17th. I would absolutely appreciate any advice about starting there, such as where to stay, where to actually get on the Camino in the city, etc. I have ordered my guide book, so it's possible I'm asking things it can answer, but would welcome any advice. Thanks much!
 
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I wouldn't miss a night spent in the refugio from the ruins of San Anton monastery. Is 6 kilometers after Hontanas, but is tottaly worth pushing yourself to reach it.

I'm in Leon right now and the night from San Anton was one of the most memorable.
 
ElizabethB8246 said:
I would absolutely appreciate any advice about starting there, such as where to stay, where to actually get on the Camino in the city, etc.

Elizabeth,
Very little response or help generated by your email. I expect that you will find this uncommon, once you get on the way.

It has been 7 years since I walked through Burgos, but if I remember correctly, the Camino takes you right passed the Cathedral. If you circle the Cathedral, you are bound to find it. Look for the yellow arrows, and notice a loose flow of pilgrims all going in one direction. They will be on the way. Don't be afraid to ask. "Donde esta el Camino?" Many Europeans speak some english, and if not, follow the hand gestures. Relax and have a ball!

As for where to stay, I can't help you. But there will be several Albergues in town, and quite close to the Camino.

Best wishes for a great adventure.
David, Victoria, Canada.
 
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Hello, I'm also a first timer starting in Burgos but I'm starting on 4/9, arriving in Burgos on 3/9. Flight and bus times mean I won't get there until late afternoon/early evening so I plan to book a hotel for the night near the Cathedral - lots of reasonably priced ones online.
 
Elizabeth, the last two times we were in Burgos we stayed at the Albergue municipal there (Casa de los Cubos) behind the Cathedral. You can get your credencial there.
We enjoyed it both times. Going to the Albergue parroquial may be more intimate. The Hospital de Peregrinos may also be more intimate. In both cases, it may be easier to meet other pilgrims with whom you will share a meal (albergue parroquial particularly). This could be a good way to start.

In Hornillos del Camino, the albergue is fine, with a restaurant across the street (pilgrim's menu).
San Anton is about 4 ks before Castrojeriz. A great place. Only 12 beds I believe. Cold water. A ruin with a lot of interesting energy.
Boadilla del Camino has a great private albergue. Fun atmosphere. Good food.
Villalcazar de Sirga, before Carrion de los Condes, has a quiet albergue. The priest a couple of years ago had a degree in Arts and Culture and could really explain to you all there was to know about the Templar church. A fabulous experience. food available, soso. Maybe cooking for yourself that night might be worthwhile.
Carrion de los Condes: I like the Clarissas. Nice pilgrims' mass. Several restaurants. Several albergues.
Calzadilla de la Cueza. We have stopped there. Washing-machine dryer. Restaurant. Swimming pool even (I always was there in November)
Ledigo, an albergue where I got gastro-entiritis. But nice if you're with friends.
Terradillos de los Templarios. We've stayed there. Washer-dryer, small rooms, restaurant, internet.
Moratinos, one of the best places on the Camino, when you stay with Rebekah at the Peaceable Kingdom.
San Nicolas del Real Camino, run by Italians. I always pass too late to enjoy their hospitality, which has a great reputation.
Sahagun, big albergue.
Bercianos del Real Camino, albergue was cool when we stopped. Nice hospitaler@s. classic music. But this was 6 years ago. Things have a way to change.
Burgo Ranero. I like the albergue there.
Mansillas de las Mulas, with a good albergue and possibility to cook. Inner courtyard. friendly, great to find help if you have blisters.
Leon, the Benedictine albergue. They also have a hotel if you want to treat yourself as in a parador, but at half the price. (still expensive)
I would the alternate route and go to
Villar de Mazarife. We stopped at the first albergue when entering the village. Wrong choice. I think it is Tio Pepe that is better but I am not sure.
Hospital de Orbigo. We stopped at all three places at different times. The private alberge, the last on the main street to the left, might be the nicest.
I never spent the night in Astorga.
Murias de Rechivaldo looked good two years ago.
Santa Catalina can be a nice option
Rabanal del Camino, the English albergue Gaucelmo, imo, is a must.
Foncebaden, the 'hippie' albergue, on the left, was well noted by some fellow pilgrims two years ago.
Manjarin is an experience in itself. Ask people who have stayed there what they thought of it. I stopped for a coffee but did not stay.
El Acebo, the albergue parroquial seems to be a great option if you can. Common meal with all the pilgrims present -- always a great way to spend an evening.
Molinaseca, the albergue is on the way out but offers a meal. We slept under a tent there because they had no room at the inn. Strange experience.
Ponferrada, the albergue St Nicolas de Flue was great two years ago -- very few people, we had a small room to ourselves. The first time we were there in June at the time of the town's fiestas and we only slept like four hours... Dantesque, a friend qualified it.
Cacabelos, one of my favorite albergues, two beds per small room.
Villafranca del Bierzo, I am one of the few people who's not fond of Ave Fenix. Spent a night in a casa rural where the owner was most unwelcoming.
Ruitelan, famous for its atmosphere, shiatsus, food :)
La Faba: I love the place
O'Ceibreiro, did not stay at albergues there. A hotel and a casa rural (good place)
Always wanted to stay in Fonfria. never did.
Triacastela, stayed at a private albergue which I would not recommend, but forgot its name
If you can walk to Samos, the road is magic -- sensational.
San Xil, super private albergue
Sarria, stayed at O Durminente, where we were very well received both times. Once at 9:30 pm -- were given food and a bed. Last time, it was pouring down and we were soaked to the bones
Portomarin -- there is an albergue before you reach the town itself. Very modern. We thought we were going to be alone in it. Not at all...
Palas de Rei, we stayed at a private place I would not recommend
Arzua, I like the albergue municipal
Arca, the municipal albergue is a bit depressing. The private albergue up the street is clean, computer access, etc. Across from a restaurant where my husband got gastro-entiritis...
Monte de Gozo, an experience in itself.
Santiago, treat yourself to a hotel!

Voila, i got stuck on memory lane. Well, I hope this can be of help.

¡Buen Camino!
 
Hello ElizabethB,
I came across you on another thread and then remembered this one. Having allowed eleven or twelve days to Burgos with a start on the 5th September, I reckon our paths might well cross. the excitement is starting to build nicely now. Cant wait. Only wish I'de done a bit more training though. Still as the veterans have always said, we will find the streangth from somewhere and the Camino will provide. All the best......Jimmy C.
 
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Elizabeth:

The new/rehabbed municipal Albergue is right behind the Cathedral. You should be able to get your passport there and will have no trouble finding your way out of town in the morning. There will be plenty of Peregrino's to follow.

Pack light, start slow and let the Camino be your guide as to how far you go each day.

I did not like the albergue in Hornillos only one store, one place to stay and no services in the morning. I suggest you walk on but do not know your conditioning level.

Castrojeriz is a nice stop. It is worth it to get up early and climb the hill just outside of town before the sunrise. Absolutely stunning.

Carrion de los Condes - I recommend you stay at the parish albergue Santa Maria. One of my favorite stops.

If you have any/other specific questions, I would be happy to respond here or in a PM.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
"I did not like the albergue in Hornillos only one store, one place to stay and no services in the morning. I suggest you walk on but do not know your conditioning level"
.

I agree about Hornillos - avoid it like the plague. I think it, together with Itel de la Vega (the albergue at the end of the village, not the first one), were the 2 worst albergues. I am sorry I did not have the energy to carry on another 6 kms to San Bol from Hornillos. Dont miss San Xulian after Palas deRei. They do the best communal meal. I also liked Pereje, which is after Villa Franca de Bierza mainly because you can get a good night's sleep there with very comfortable single beds. There was no hospitalero in attendance the night that we stayed there and we all stamped our own passports with the stamp left lying on the entrance table! The bar collected our money for the albergue in a most haphazard way, only asking pilgrims who had meal there for their contribution. I guess those that didn't eat in the bar didn't pay.
 
I'm not sure how you will arrive in Burgos but if you arrive by train there is a new train station on the outskirts of Burgos [I thought it was still fairly near the centre but thats all gone] and the bus station is not far from the centre. But we just ended up on the camino without looking. Burgos is worth having a look round before you start. Monasterio de las Huelgas was also interesting but this was a holiday after my camino.
Buen camino
Liz
 
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I'm not sure how you will arrive in Burgos but if you arrive by train there is a new train station on the outskirts of Burgos [I thought it was still fairly near the centre but thats all gone] and the bus station is not far from the centre. But we just ended up on the camino without looking. Burgos is worth having a look round before you start. Monasterio de las Huelgas was also interesting but this was a holiday after my camino.
Buen camino
Liz
 

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