From La Storta to Rome--Need advice

[Dick & Kitty]

My husband and I will be in Rome for a week at the end of this month (April). The main purpose of the visit is to see our granddaughter who is in an archaeology program for spring semester of her junior year in college, but we also are looking forward to seeing Rome again--this time with more walking and less running from one sight to another. But our time is limited to a week. Between 2015 and 2021, we walked the Camino Frances in stages (beginning with the final stage and then starting at St. Jean when we felt drawn to do the whole thing!) We thought it would be interesting to take one day to walk the last stretch of the Via Francigena--La Storta to St. Peter's. The walk is allegedly of medium difficulty and takes 4 to 5 hours to complete. Having walked the Camino Frances, we are well aware that "medium difficulty" is subject to considerable interpretation and four to five hours depends a great deal on individual pace, not to mention such variables as the weather! We are both in our mid-70s and reasonably fit. We would love to have some input from those of you who have actually walked this stretch--was it difficult or fairly easy, was it mostly walking on a sidewalk beside busy roads, in general what was it like and would you recommend it? Thanks for your help!

 

[timr]

@Dick & Kitty , Welcome.

It is five years since I walked that stretch.

It is not really difficult and in many ways not terribly 'nice' and an example of how context is everything. If it is your last day after 90 days on the road from Canterbury, there are many things spurring you on and making you fairly forgiving.

It begins along a main-ish road and when I walked (and not uncommonly - I lived in Rome for 4 years) there was a refuse collectors' strike, which didn't help. They you turn into the Insugherata park which can be quite overgrown although there is a distinct path.

But eventually, in the distance, long before you get there, the dome of St Peter's rises out of the plain. This makes up for everything! There is quite a steep zig zag downhill path through the park (Monte Mario) down to the city. There are 2 or 3 km then along a dead straight city street which brings you straight to the colonnade of St Peter's Square.

It took me 4:45 and was 20km. i was 64 at the time. Against that I suppose at the end of 2,200km of walking I was about as fit as I could get. I ran a 5km race the day after I arrived!

An advantage of going at the end of April is that it will not be too hot. And also the park will not be too overgrown.

If you are Camino veterans you should have no real difficulty. Start early and take your time.

Tim

 

[Bradypus]

@timr It is even longer since I walked that stage. In 2015 the route did not pass through the Insugherata park. It crossed at least one slip road of the GRA and was alongside busy roads until the Monte Mario park. Quite unpleasant and in places I thought it was dangerous - and I don't think I'm a specially nervous or novice walker. I would not be surprised to learn that legends of quite how unpleasant it was survive! From Monte Mario onwards it was a joy though.

 

[timr]

@timr It is even longer since I walked that stage. In 2015 the route did not pass through the Insugherata park. It crossed at least one slip road of the GRA and was alongside busy roads until the Monte Mario park. Quite unpleasant and in places I thought it was dangerous - and I don't think I'm a specially nervous or novice walker. I would not be surprised to learn that legends of quite how unpleasant it was survive! From Monte Mario onwards it was a joy though.

Yes that is important. The path does change from time to time and i remember reading there were diversions (I cannot recall why) In Insugherata last year or the year before.

@Dick & Kitty you can download the track on the official app on viefrancigene.org.

 

[Dick & Kitty]

@Dick & Kitty , Welcome.

It is five years since I walked that stretch.

It is not really difficult and in many ways not terribly 'nice' and an example of how context is everything. If it is your last day after 90 days on the road from Canterbury, there are many things spurring you on and making you fairly forgiving.

It begins along a main-ish road and when I walked (and not uncommonly - I lived in Rome for 4 years) there was a refuse collectors' strike, which didn't help. They you turn into the Insugherata park which can be quite overgrown although there is a distinct path.

But eventually, in the distance, long before you get there, the dome of St Peter's rises out of the plain. This makes up for everything! There is quite a steep zig zag downhill path through the park (Monte Mario) down to the city. There are 2 or 3 km then along a dead straight city street which brings you straight to the colonnade of St Peter's Square.

It took me 4:45 and was 20km. i was 64 at the time. Against that I suppose at the end of 2,200km of walking I was about as fit as I could get. I ran a 5km race the day after I arrived!

An advantage of going at the end of April is that it will not be too hot. And also the park will not be too overgrown.

If you are Camino veterans you should have no real difficulty. Start early and take your time.

Tim

Thanks. That is very helpful information.

 

[Dick & Kitty]

@Dick & Kitty , Welcome.

It is five years since I walked that stretch.

It is not really difficult and in many ways not terribly 'nice' and an example of how context is everything. If it is your last day after 90 days on the road from Canterbury, there are many things spurring you on and making you fairly forgiving.

It begins along a main-ish road and when I walked (and not uncommonly - I lived in Rome for 4 years) there was a refuse collectors' strike, which didn't help. They you turn into the Insugherata park which can be quite overgrown although there is a distinct path.

But eventually, in the distance, long before you get there, the dome of St Peter's rises out of the plain. This makes up for everything! There is quite a steep zig zag downhill path through the park (Monte Mario) down to the city. There are 2 or 3 km then along a dead straight city street which brings you straight to the colonnade of St Peter's Square.

It took me 4:45 and was 20km. i was 64 at the time. Against that I suppose at the end of 2,200km of walking I was about as fit as I could get. I ran a 5km race the day after I arrived!

An advantage of going at the end of April is that it will not be too hot. And also the park will not be too overgrown.

If you are Camino veterans you should have no real difficulty. Start early and take your time.

Tim

Thanks for all the info. I wish we had time to walk more of the route. Still hoping to the Camino Portuguese sometime this year or next. Before we get too old or feeble!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I walked the VF in 2019 so my experience is only slightly 'fresher' than @timr's...
Not wishing to be negative but my overall recollection is rubbish...literally!


And there was no strike...

But as @timr & @Bradypus allude, being the final day of a 93 day undertaking (for me, started in London), you don't really care. However fresh legs/eyes may have a different perspective!
I enjoyed the walk, I don't recall roads feeling dangerous & yes, the park is overgrown.
Of course, there's 'that' view

& the enormous sense of relief, accomplishment & gratitude for safe passage...your walking companion on the final stretch to Vatican City.
I have to mention exhaustion too...how @timr ran a race the next day, I'll never know All I ran was into a wall...I was done!
@Dick & Kitty, I know you're only after practical info for this section but I thought I'd add a little bit extra so maybe, as part of your walk, you could imagine for a moment what it might be like for those of us fortunate enough to have tackled the entire VF.
Enjoy...& happy trails!

 

[Harington]

@timr It is even longer since I walked that stage. In 2015 the route did not pass through the Insugherata park. It crossed at least one slip road of the GRA and was alongside busy roads until the Monte Mario park. Quite unpleasant and in places I thought it was dangerous - and I don't think I'm a specially nervous or novice walker. I would not be surprised to learn that legends of quite how unpleasant it was survive! From Monte Mario onwards it was a joy though.

It was indeed deeply unpleasant (2016) with the traffic bearing down on you and no pavement/sidewalk in places. I'd take the train out to Campagnano di Roma and walk between there and La Storta, which is surprisingly rural and pretty.

 

[MikeC]

My wife and I were your age when we walked the final 100 km to the Vatican.
I would suggest starting your day walk from either La Giustania station or getting the bus 223 from Rome Termini to the entrance to the park area Insugherata.
The park is a surprise find in the middle of a city and the exit from it is steep but short.
it is about 10 miles, from where you would enter the park, to the Vatican
lots of pavement but also plenty of quieter bits.
enjoy it

 

[Dick & Kitty]

My wife and I were your age when we walked the final 100 km to the Vatican.
I would suggest starting your day walk from either La Giustania station or getting the bus 223 from Rome Termini to the entrance to the park area Insugherata.
The park is a surprise find in the middle of a city and the exit from it is steep but short.
it is about 10 miles, from where you would enter the park, to the Vatican
lots of pavement but also plenty of quieter bits.
enjoy it

Yes, I think we will probably walk from the park to St. Peters. Thanks so much for the particulars!

 

[MikeC]

@Dick & Kitty , Welcome.

It is five years since I walked that stretch.

It is not really difficult and in many ways not terribly 'nice' and an example of how context is everything. If it is your last day after 90 days on the road from Canterbury, there are many things spurring you on and making you fairly forgiving.

It begins along a main-ish road and when I walked (and not uncommonly - I lived in Rome for 4 years) there was a refuse collectors' strike, which didn't help. They you turn into the Insugherata park which can be quite overgrown although there is a distinct path.

But eventually, in the distance, long before you get there, the dome of St Peter's rises out of the plain. This makes up for everything! There is quite a steep zig zag downhill path through the park (Monte Mario) down to the city. There are 2 or 3 km then along a dead straight city street which brings you straight to the colonnade of St Peter's Square.

It took me 4:45 and was 20km. i was 64 at the time. Against that I suppose at the end of 2,200km of walking I was about as fit as I could get. I ran a 5km race the day after I arrived!

An advantage of going at the end of April is that it will not be too hot. And also the park will not be too overgrown.

If you are Camino veterans you should have no real difficulty. Start early and take your time.

Tim

Dear Tim

Do you have a translation for “Insugherata”?
I have tried several avenues without success..
Mike Crossley

 

[Bradypus]

Do you have a translation for “Insugherata”?

According to the Wikipedia article on Monte Mario it comes from the Italian for cork oaks: "querce da sughero"

 

[MikeC]

According to the Wikipedia article on Monte Mario it comes from the Italian for cork oaks: "querce da sughero"

That’s great. thank you

 

[Chrisp]

I walked the VF in 2019 so my experience is only slightly 'fresher' than @timr's...
Not wishing to be negative but my overall recollection is rubbish...literally!

View attachment 144538 View attachment 144539
And there was no strike...

But as @timr & @Bradypus allude, being the final day of a 93 day undertaking (for me, started in London), you don't really care. However fresh legs/eyes may have a different perspective!
I enjoyed the walk, I don't recall roads feeling dangerous & yes, the park is overgrown.
Of course, there's 'that' view
View attachment 144541
& the enormous sense of relief, accomplishment & gratitude for safe passage...your walking companion on the final stretch to Vatican City.
I have to mention exhaustion too...how @timr ran a race the next day, I'll never know All I ran was into a wall...I was done!
@Dick & Kitty, I know you're only after practical info for this section but I thought I'd add a little bit extra so maybe, as part of your walk, you could imagine for a moment what it might be like for those of us fortunate enough to have tackled the entire VF.
Enjoy...& happy trails!

Perfect response. I echo your words because we only walked a few years ago. I was in my late 60’s and found the walk relatively easy despite having to contend with a massive storm that swept through Italy and felled trees and scattered the park with debris. The sad part though was all the rubbish because it definitely spoilt our last day and was a bit of a letdown, that and the exhaustion after 2000km!! Enjoy yourselves whatever you decide to do