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I am sorry you had such a discouraging and difficult experience. Do you suppose these closures are seasonal? January being rather off-season, I would suppose.I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed.
I walked the Primitivo in May in 2016 at the age of 63 and had combined it with the first half of the Norte. Yes, it was a rather tough route, but I made it and have wonderful memories. I think going in winter would be a huge negative for most folks for all the many reasons Terry has mentioned and I sympathize with his disappointment.And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
I was thinking the same thing-- possibly a seasonal problem.I am sorry you had such a discouraging and difficult experience. Do you suppose these closures are seasonal? January being rather off-season, I would suppose.
Can't like. Sorry for your disappointment. I will look out for your Inglés experience, as I hope to do that in August...I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
The like is for his courage and sharing his experience with us, not to like his bad experienceCan't like. Sorry for your disappointment. I will look out for your Inglés experience, as I hope to do that in August...
I know, and thanks for your clarification.The like is for his courage and sharing his experience with us, not to like his bad experience
I can second that you need to plan your water carefully on this route. We ran out of water a couple of times when we walked this past September. The toughest day was when we walked the high route from Campiello to Berducedo via the Hospitales route. Fortunately a local lady was sitting by the trail about 8 kilometers from Berducedo and filled our water bottles for us.
When people ask about the walk, and what it was like, I say imagine being in the gym on a Stairmaster machine and using it for 7 to 8 hours solid on level 8!
In any case both my wife and I completed the route to Santiago in 12 days at 58 and 59.
My worst day on Camino Primitivo last September was the day from Campiello via Hospitales. The weather was hot (+33 C). After 3 hours walk we took our lunch. I sat on my backbag. And when we stand up I found that all my water had run away. My husband had one liter water left. You can imagine how thirsty were that afternoon. We did not find any place to get water before Berducedo. The bar was closed, not any houses near the camino. Ah, how happy we were when we entered the bar and the alberge.I can second that you need to plan your water carefully on this route. We ran out of water a couple of times when we walked this past September. The toughest day was when we walked the high route from Campiello to Berducedo via the Hospitales route. Fortunately a local lady was sitting by the trail about 8 kilometers from Berducedo and filled our water bottles for us.
When people ask about the walk, and what it was like, I say imagine being in the gym on a Stairmaster machine and using it for 7 to 8 hours solid on level 8!
In any case both my wife and I completed the route to Santiago in 12 days at 58 and 59.
Hey Terry! I believe you headed out in early February...I think you said the 6th. You had been in my thoughts so your posting was timely. There might still be a book in the making. There's no shame in conveying the truths that created a detour to another unfolding opportunity...like the Ingles. I will be anxious to hear how that goes. Buen Camino, and I hope we can connect this summer.I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
The Hospitales route is not 35km. What 35km are you referring to?Dont be put off by one persons experiences. I walked the Primitivo last year and I am 78. However I did choose the Pola Allande route as I did not want the 35km walk without accommodation. I took my time and kept within my limitations.
It was a great experience and I highly recommended it.
I´m 75 and am drawn to the Primitivo by something I cannot put into adequate words. Did the francés´ in ´99. As a marathoner and a fit specimen, I believe I can do it. Your example motivates me. I´ll also be on the road in May. Quien sabe? Es posible que nos encontramos en Asturias.And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
CuI´m 75 and am drawn to the Primitivo by something I cannot put into adequate words. Did the francés´ in ´99. As a marathoner and a fit specimen, I believe I can do it. Your example motivates me. I´ll also be on the road in May. Quien sabe? Es posible que nos encontramos en Asturias.
Yes, agree. Winter definitely very challenging. May will be enough challenge!I walked the Primitivo in May in 2016 at the age of 63 and had combined it with the first half of the Norte. Yes, it was a rather tough route, but I made it and have wonderful memories. I think going in winter would be a huge negative for most folks for all the many reasons Terry has mentioned and I sympathize with his disappointment.
Thanks for the encouragement! Will keep you posted.76!! Rock on and keep us posted on your adventure. You give us all hope. I will give it a try in late September
Me pongo en camino en San Sebastian. Intento estar en Oviedo más o menos por el 9 de mayo. Con 200 millas a Santiago de allí, cuestan 10 días para llegar.Gracias por el mensaje! Qué bien. Cuando salgas? De Oviedo?
Terrance, pity but I understand. My wife and I walked it two years ago in Autumn. Loved it. Not a lot of Pilgrims but enough. This walk never gets busy. Perhaps give it another shot later in the year. It’s surprises in its beauty.I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
Qué bien! Yo salgo el 8 de Oviedo.Me pongo en camino en San Sebastian. Intento estar en Oviedo más o menos por el 9 de mayo. Con 200 millas a Santiago de allí, cuestan 10 días para llegar.
I always carry a few chlorine dioxide tablets in case I need to be doubly sure of a water source. They came in handy climbing to Hospitales on the Primitivo as I'd forgotten to refill before the climb. I was able to collect some highly questionable water dribblong off a rockface and treat it in the bottle. They are not something you can use regularly though as you need to treat the water so there is residual chlorine left (i.e. all the baddies have been oxidised) so it tastes like drinking swimmingpool water, but ok in an emergency.
I carried the smallest of camping stove - not enough to cook on but you could boil a cup of water.As I am from Maine, the cold never bothered me. I have polypropane long johns and alpaca hat and gloves and Frogg Toggs rain/snow water-proof gear.
The one thing I wished I had taken was some water purification tablets.
That would have enabled me to take water with impunity at any of the unmarked
Fountains and from some of the mountains streams. A few packets of cool aide or tang would help to make the purified water more tasty and add some sugar for energy. I actually have a small bottle of Water Purification pills at home which i did
Not take with me, wished I had.
You’ve not lost your mind. It’s a beautiful route and I’m sure well within your compass. Take your time, enjoy the company and the glorious scenery and you’ll find yourself In Santiago sooner than you imagine. Don’t underestimate the climbs, up and down but don’t over worry. They’re all perfectly manageable at a careful, steady pace.And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
Sorry to hear it. My daughter and I did the Norte to Primitivo to Santiago in 2016 when I was 72. But I am use to doing 1000 to 1500 m per day here in the Mountains of Maine and New Hampshire. At my age training is everything. Also carry a simple Sawyer Star water filter.I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
Good Luck - Joseph. UltreiaAnd then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
I don’t see it as ‘giving up’ but applying what our Caminos have taught us about going with the flow, adapting, changing expectations. I too have done three Caminos. French, well that was magical! Portugués from Lisbon was a lesson in patience & adjusting - after a foot injury at Tomar it had me leaving route for over a week of healing on the coast in Nazare, then skipping to Porto for more rehab and ultimately having to accept Tui to Santiago was all my foot could endure. Last year I was going to do the Primitivo but my timing was off with weeks prior of Galatian rains (ankle deep mud being reported) so I opted for a Santiago- Muxia - Finesterre - Santiago loop. Afterwards I bused and visited the two starts of the Ingles (Ferrol & A Coruna). I’m so much more comfortable now accepting ‘what is’ and coming to reframe my Camino adventures to what ‘actually’ unfolds. Glad that you took care of yourself, ‘listened’ to your body and inner being...and wish you a Buen Camino - wherever that may take you!I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
It's wonderful how our prayers (even when we are unaware we are even saying them) are answered when on the Camino. We had this happen all the time when we rode the Camino Frances route in 2013.Yes I am certain that closures and the total lack of other pilgrims are seasonal.
I did get water at some of the fountains, only when there was a local who assured
Me that it was "aqua boa".
Two stories to tell.
Out of Grado the Camino follows a river for some time. Flooding had made it appear as if the route I was walking dead ended into the river.
Had I walked just another 20 meters, I would have seen that the Camino route
Curved back along the river bank.
I was just about to back track to see where I might have lost the trail, when only the second pilgrim I encountered in 8 days, appeared walking in the reverse direction. A French woman - like an angel sent to guide me! I mean at the very minute, I needed direction. It was miraculous kind of synchronicity.
The other story was after the grueling day out of Grandas with no water and places closed and so discouraged, I had a big meal at a terrific Pulpo Family Restaurant in Fonsagrada. Waiting for my table upstairs, a bagpiper band comes into the place. Three pipers and two drums and a penny flute.
Remember Galica has strong Celtic roots. Upstairs eating the best fresh octopus ever, swimming in extra virgin olive oil and dusted with Spanish paprika, they start singing downstairs in the bar.
Big platters of unctuous slices of pork meat and plates of sausages and a big swordfish steak are being served to the large family's enjoying their Satuday meal together. To be so alone on the Camino and then to be in this warm Galician family celebration of life, well it was like the whole day just turned on a dime.
Extreme ups and downs, a Camino metaphors.
Terry Callery
Thanks for the encouragement!You’ve not lost your mind. It’s a beautiful route and I’m sure well within your compass. Take your time, enjoy the company and the glorious scenery and you’ll find yourself In Santiago sooner than you imagine. Don’t underestimate the climbs, up and down but don’t over worry. They’re all perfectly manageable at a careful, steady pace.
Burn Camino
Thanks so much!!!Good Luck - Joseph. Ultreia
Thanks. Much appreciated. Will give it my best!You’ve not lost your mind. It’s a beautiful route and I’m sure well within your compass. Take your time, enjoy the company and the glorious scenery and you’ll find yourself In Santiago sooner than you imagine. Don’t underestimate the climbs, up and down but don’t over worry. They’re all perfectly manageable at a careful, steady pace.
Burn Camino
Go for it. I hiked it late June/early July 2018 and enjoyed it. No problems with water. Enjoyed it more than the Norte (I cut off at Oviedo) to get away from the coastal tourist towns) because of fewer people. I did the Via Francigena, Canterbury to Rome in 2017 and didn’t see another hiker the first 600 miles. PS. I’m 67. Enjoy.And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
What month did you do the Via? I am considering it or the Way of St. Francis next year and must choose. I would not start from St. Bernard's Pass though.Go for it. I hiked it late June/early July 2018 and enjoyed it. No problems with water. Enjoyed it more than the Norte (I cut off at Oviedo) to get away from the coastal tourist towns) because of fewer people. I did the Via Francigena, Canterbury to Rome in 2017 and didn’t see another hiker the first 600 miles. PS. I’m 67. Enjoy.
I left Canterbury Aug 8 to avoid hiking in Italy in the summer (it does get hot). People said to be over Saint Bernard Pass by mid-September or so because of snow. I crossed abt September 6 and 3 days later it snowed for a week. It’s best to be finished with Italy before November because winter rains start about that time unless you don’t mind walking in downpour for days. Got to Rome on October 3.What month did you do the Via? I am considering it or the Way of St. Francis next year and must choose. I would not start from St. Bernard's Pass though.
I too will be on the Primitivo mear the end of May I am estimating. Hope to see you out there!And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
GREAT!!I too will be on the Primitivo mear the end of May I am estimating. Hope to see you out there!
WOW...the Via Francigena fascinates me. Was it a good experience for you?Go for it. I hiked it late June/early July 2018 and enjoyed it. No problems with water. Enjoyed it more than the Norte (I cut off at Oviedo) to get away from the coastal tourist towns) because of fewer people. I did the Via Francigena, Canterbury to Rome in 2017 and didn’t see another hiker the first 600 miles. PS. I’m 67. Enjoy.
Thanks, Joseph. I plan to go Primitivo last week of May/June after walking The Norte from Santander. I am only 66, but your "pushing things" is encouraging me not to give up.And then reality hits! Am saying this because I am planning to be on the Primitivo in early May. I know I am pushing things to want to walk the Primitivo. But something urges me on. I did pretty well actually on the Francés a year and a half ago. All of it. With my backpack. Guess I am rambling and wondering whether I have lost my mind. I am 76, a good walker. HMMMMMM. Thanks for posting.
So sorry to hear that. That is muy triste. I am really looking forward to the Primitivo this fall but I live at 5000 ft and climb volcanoes and high mountains regularly I loved the Norte and thought it was easy at 72I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
I am sorry that you had such a bad time. Perhaps it was the time of year. I walked it at age 73 in 17 and had. a great time. I know there were a few hills,but nothing too difficult. Maybe another time of year would make it easier. i cannot remember ever being short of water. Are you sure that we walked the same camino?I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
Yes, I thoroughly enjoyed it. I had hiked the Appalachian Trail the previous year and wanted to do another long hike. The Via in France and Switzerland doesn’t have the pilgrim Albergue infrastructure of the Camino so I tented some nights. Italy has adequate pilgrim accommodations. It was a solitary hike for me except for the last few hundred miles, but I enjoyed it that way; all my socializing was with locals, who were so nice. A great walk. Plan around the weather.WOW...the Via Francigena fascinates me. Was it a good experience for you?
This is interesting to me since my husband and I plan to walk the Primitivo starting on May 14th and taking 18 days. That's an average of 18 km/day but there are days which are necessarily longer than the average. The Hospitales route sounds like the easier way to go compared with the Pola route unless the weather is bad, although at least there is that town of Pola where we could stop and not have to plug along without infrastrure or water. How easy would it be to take a bus along some of those very difficult portions? Are they few and far between? On this particular Camino we will forgive ourselves for not being the "purists" that we were on the Camino Frances in 2015 when we never took a bus or had bags transported and took seven weeks. We were three years younger then. Now we are 80 and 73 and (possibly) crazy???!!!We walked over the Hospitales and I think that was not a bad climb, but the climb out of Pola gains a lot of elevation fast. I agree that the climb out of Salas is brutal. I'm glad we slept in Salas and started that leg at 0630 in the rain while it was still dark.
WOW! 51km is huge.I walked the Primitivo last April/May. It was stunning and cold ...
The climbs and descents are long, ...
I am 67, and my longest day, 51km was on the primitivo-but after the big climbs and descents
Interesting report. I will look for your books. JanineI am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
I walked this in 17 and was 73. It has some ups and downs,but nothing that is not doable for a reasonably fit person. It is very beautifful,and I was never short of water. But do take a light sleeping bag-you will need it. Please give it a try!Oh, I am sorry that u had to stop, but applaud your ability to self care. As a 70 yr old female I am ambivalent about tacking this walk. At this moment I have planned to walk from Madrid to leon. bus it to Oviedo and then walk some more in mid sept to mid oct. As has been noted so many times this is not an endurance contest. Thanks so much for your courage and humility
Do you mention the sleeping bag because you had to sleep outside sometimes?I walked this in 17 and was 73. It has some ups and downs,but nothing that is not doable for a reasonably fit person. It is very beautifful,and I was never short of water. But do take a light sleeping bag-you will need it. Please give it a try!
Along the Hospitales there is no bus. But after going over it, when you get to the highway crossing, there is a sign for a taxi. You can call them and they will take you the rest of the way to the next town (Berducedo) where the albergues are. I think it's another 9-10km of walking from there as I recall. There's bus service from Fonsagrada to Lugo. I didn't really notice any other bus service, but I wasn't looking.This is interesting to me since my husband and I plan to walk the Primitivo starting on May 14th and taking 18 days. That's an average of 18 km/day but there are days which are necessarily longer than the average. The Hospitales route sounds like the easier way to go compared with the Pola route unless the weather is bad, although at least there is that town of Pola where we could stop and not have to plug along without infrastrure or water. How easy would it be to take a bus along some of those very difficult portions? Are they few and far between? On this particular Camino we will forgive ourselves for not being the "purists" that we were on the Camino Frances in 2015 when we never took a bus or had bags transported and took seven weeks. We were three years younger then. Now we are 80 and 73 and (possibly) crazy???!!!
Jaininedawn. I mentioned a sleeping bag because I did not take on in early September 2017. It was 40C. In Madrid,so I thought a silk liner would suffice. I t never got over 65F,and I was cold many nights. I would have to get out of my liner,and in the dark,find some clothes,and get back in,all the time trying to be quiet. I never saw any blankets offered,except in BIOMORTO,where you could rent a nice comforter for 3 euros. Meanwhile,my German companions seemed to be snugged down in their sleeping bags. Asturias and Galicia are green and lush and haveDo you mention the sleeping bag because you had to sleep outside sometimes?
Jaininedawn, I walked this Camino in September of 17.It was 40+C. In Madrid,so I thought it would be hot on the Primitivo. It never got over 65 F. and I took a silk liner only. In the night,I would get cold and have to fumble around in the night,all the time watching others snug in their sleeping bags. Asturias and Galicia have Seattle spring weather all summer long. I never saw a blanket except a rental in Biomorto,and would strongly suggest taking a sleeping bag. Of course. This decision is yours to make. Also I recommend taking the Camino Verde out of Lugo. More importantly BUEN CAMINODo you mention the sleeping bag because you had to sleep outside sometimes?
Oh Terry, I'm so very, very sorry to hear about your troubles but applaud you not giving up on the Camino totally. Do enjoy your Ingles route.I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
So sorry you had that experience. I had a different walk in 2017 during June.I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
Lauri. Your post is noted. I was refering to potential walkers of the primitivo when I was saying that they have to decide what they can do and what they want from their camino. I only wish for them to view all of the posts equally. I hope that we agree that we are part of a grand experience! Lauri,thanks again for your impute,and I am suffering from cabin fever! BruceOk, is everyone suffering from cabin fever? Why the snarkiness? I'm tempted to delete several posts here but will leave them up for the time being. Can we all agree that people have different levels of fitness, that the level of fitness is one of the things that determines whether you think a camino or a stage is easy or hard (but of course weather and mental state are hugely important too)? I personally think it is helpful to others to hear the range of opinions on the difficulty question, but the only way it can really help you make a decision is to know more about your own abilities and how you compare to the person who is saying it was hard or easy.
Anyway, time to be more civil and considerate of others' feelings. Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Terry,I am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
It takes courage to abandon a project dear to our heart. I admire that. When I was on the Camino in May, I always drank from the fountains because one villager told me that although it said not purified (I don't remember the actual wording), he was taking it and said it was fine. However, several young pilgrims became terribly ill between Burgos and Leon. I am going back this May and this time, I might take one of the personal travel purifying water bottles. Also, I imagine if the cafes were closed, maybe the villages were deserted; they so often are. But if not, I would knock at a door. People are so kind. I talked to quite a few villagers. One old fellow lived right by the trail into the village and he said. "You know, I don't mind the pilgrims. I like to watch them go by." It occurred to me then that it must be so annoying to some of the residents when some pilgrims hike out of the albergue, sometimes talking loudly and with their poles hitting the pavement at every step, early in the morning, disturbing the villagers' sleep. Funny, that had not occurred to me before (and I have been guilty of talking loud on the camino in the villages early in the morning) but since I live in a university town, right beside campus, I know how awful it can be when revellers pass by at 3 am... I am more careful now. Anyway, we also met a lovely couple who filled a bag with figs for us. And I gave a tiny Canadian flag pin to the old fellow who liked watching the pilgrims and gave us a tour of his ancient home. He said he would never take it offI am writing this from Lugo, as I have just taken the bus from Fonsagrada where I stopped walking the
Primitivo after 8 days on the Camino. In that entire time, I saw just one other pilgrim.
The thing that makes this such a stunningly beautiful walk, which is the jaw-dropping mythic landscapes, is also the thing that makes it "mas duro" very difficult. There are long 5 kilometer climbs
Out of Salas (500 meter elevation), out of Grandas de Salime (600 meters) and out of Pola de Allende.
This is a rugged country of steep valleys with the Cantebrian mountains always to the south.
My bus left Fonsagrada at dawn with tangerine skys framing the "purple majesty" of the rolling mountain
horizon. The views from the LU-530 highway were breathtaking and expansive.
But hiking an elevation of 600 meters is the same as climbing the stairs of a 150 story building.
Water is a real challenge, I did not see a single fountain marked Potable Water....even though I am sure most were. I got to bar/cafe out of Pola 3 km and "Cerrado" closed. No water refill. Same thing when I got to Acebo, bar/cafe closed. Waking the extreme elevations, and I am 66 years old, is one thing.
No water, well it was too much.
Both my French Camino (Slow Camino-My Adventure on the Camino de Santiago) and my Portuguese Camino (Portuguese Camino- In Search of the Infinite Moment) resulted in books I published on Amazon. The Portuguese Camino was a cake-walk compared to the Primitivo's extreme topography.
There will be no book this time. No memorable conversations with other pilgrims. No Compostals.
I will now take the train from Lugo and try the easier Ingles.
Terence Callery
This is exactly what I did - from Ovideo - in June 2017. It was marvelous in every good way. Met many people and have some lasting Camino friends.Oh, I am sorry that u had to stop, but applaud your ability to self care. As a 70 yr old female I am ambivalent about tacking this walk. At this moment I have planned to walk from Madrid to leon. bus it to Oviedo and then walk some more in mid sept to mid oct. As has been noted so many times this is not an endurance contest. Thanks so much for your courage and humility
Hi to All who have previously walked the Primitivo. I realize there are infinite individual experiences and recommendations from each person who has walked this route, yet this Stairmaster allegory is making me second and third guess myself.I can second that you need to plan your water carefully on this route. We ran out of water a couple of times when we walked this past September. The toughest day was when we walked the high route from Campiello to Berducedo via the Hospitales route. Fortunately a local lady was sitting by the trail about 8 kilometers from Berducedo and filled our water bottles for us.
When people ask about the walk, and what it was like, I say imagine being in the gym on a Stairmaster machine and using it for 7 to 8 hours solid on level 8!
In any case both my wife and I completed the route to Santiago in 12 days at 58 and 59.
Hi, El Cascayal,Hi to All who have previously walked the Primitivo. I realize there are infinite individual experiences and recommendations from each person who has walked this route, yet this Stairmaster allegory is making me second and third guess myself.
I am planning on walking the Primitivo in mid May, alone and will be 65 at the time. I am reasonably fit and walk 10 miles daily in flat terrain (Miami) where the highest point is a bridge that I go up and down on to train.
I'm aiming for about 15 miles per day. Is this reasonable? I will be stepping up my training. I am asking for constructive advice. Buen Camino to all.
This makes my decision to continue on del Norte a solid one.When people ask about the walk, and what it was like, I say imagine being in the gym on a Stairmaster machine and using it for 7 to 8 hours solid on level 8!
Gracias Peregrina 2000. Your words are most encouraging. I am worried specifically about the hills, and was discouraged to see the Stairmaster analogy. If training and putting one foot in front of the other will get me over the hills, I will continue to carry on, just like you suggest. Any specific advice tidbits are most appreciated. Thanks for your response.Hi, El Cascayal,
I have walked the Primitivo twice, most recently at aged 65. I do walk long caminos, and I am a good walker, but I am by no means a super athlete. Along the way, we became a loose knit group of about 15 people, and there were only three of us who had ever walked a camino before. Of those 15, all of whom I met in the first couple of days, everyone walked into Santiago. Two of them were smokers!!! No one would say, oh this was an easy walk, but I don't think anywone would say, oh this walk almost killed me. And it's not like people were straggling in at 8 pm, because I remember many very fun afternoons with the group. I'm not trying to challenge whoever gave the analogy of the stairmaster, but just saying it wasn't like that for me or the others I was with. I guess this is one of the downsides of having so much information, since when it comes to opinions, everyone has a different one.
Well, maybe it would help to take a look at the elevation profiles. Gronze.com has one for each stage of the primitivo (and other caminos). Just click on "ver perfil de la etapa" under the schematic map. The first day from Oviedo to Grado shows that you have one sustained ascent that takes you up about 200 m. The rest goes up and down. The total elevation gain for that first day, which I get from the wikiloc GPS site, is 400 m. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/1-12-caminho-primitivo-oviedo-grado-19793783 Now this is by no means the most difficult day, but I think that by looking at a combination of the profile and the total elevation gain, you can get an idea of the kind of walk that it will be.Gracias Peregrina 2000. Your words are most encouraging. I am worried specifically about the hills, and was discouraged to see the Stairmaster analogy. If training and putting one foot in front of the other will get me over the hills, I will continue to carry on, just like you suggest. Any specific advice tidbits are most appreciated. Thanks for your response.
We are a 3 some of all mid 60's that have done more than 6 camino each and will be leaving Oviedo on about May 1. We have set our stages for walking max 25km in a day mostly around 20. If your already walking 10 miles a day you won't have a problem problem except if you overtrain. I would suggest working towards a goal of your final weeks of walking 2 days 4-5 miles 1 day hill train walking back to back days of 12-15 miles with full pack.Hi to All who have previously walked the Primitivo. I realize there are infinite individual experiences and recommendations from each person who has walked this route, yet this Stairmaster allegory is making me second and third guess myself.
I am planning on walking the Primitivo in mid May, alone and will be 65 at the time. I am reasonably fit and walk 10 miles daily in flat terrain (Miami) where the highest point is a bridge that I go up and down on to train.
I'm aiming for about 15 miles per day. Is this reasonable? I will be stepping up my training. I am asking for constructive advice. Buen Camino to all.
I walked the primitivo in 17 at age 73. I walked to Muxia in 15 days,and noticed the ups and downs,but found it very doable. The downhill to the dam and up the other side was easier than expected,and went another 5+km to castro and still arrived in the early afternoon. I would suggest you do some hill work and take a sleeping bag,but you should not have a problem! I suspect all the "killer" talk about the primitivo,comes from those who do not want it turning into another Frances!(of. which I confess to also being).Hi to All who have previously walked the Primitivo. I realize there are infinite individual experiences and recommendations from each person who has walked this route, yet this Stairmaster allegory is making me second and third guess myself.
I am planning on walking the Primitivo in mid May, alone and will be 65 at the time. I am reasonably fit and walk 10 miles daily in flat terrain (Miami) where the highest point is a bridge that I go up and down on to train.
I'm aiming for about 15 miles per day. Is this reasonable? I will be stepping up my training. I am asking for constructive advice. Buen Camino to all.
LUV this!"...A French woman - like an angel sent to guide me! I mean at the very minute, I needed direction. It was miraculous kind of synchronicity..."
Wow!Many Thanks to all of you: seashell, Beeman, Roy,shubertj, peregrina 2000. I am so grateful for your advice, it is so encouraging. Shubertj, when the 3 of you walk past El Cascayal, past Grado, the house on the left with the Horreo, is where my maternal grandfather was born & is still in the family, the cousins there tell me they have given water to Peregrinos since the middle ages. So psyched. Thanks to all. Buen Camino!
I am 64 and walking it around May 4th/5th. I live in the Netherlands at the moment, it is flat as a pancake here, not much opportunity to train on hills at all. I am doing lots of step-ups. God knows how it will work out but I don't care, I have faith in myself and as has been said, head down, one step at a time. I am glad for the heads up about water, I have a water bladder and will also invest in a filter or some purification tablets or both. If you can walk 10 miles already I would say you will be fine. 7.5 miles in the morning, a nice lunch, then 7.5 miles in the afternoon to walk it off. I did have the same feeling when the Stairmaster was mentioned? They're killers.... but hey there is only one way to find out. The first step is the hardest.Hi to All who have previously walked the Primitivo. I realize there are infinite individual experiences and recommendations from each person who has walked this route, yet this Stairmaster allegory is making me second and third guess myself.
I am planning on walking the Primitivo in mid May, alone and will be 65 at the time. I am reasonably fit and walk 10 miles daily in flat terrain (Miami) where the highest point is a bridge that I go up and down on to train.
I'm aiming for about 15 miles per day. Is this reasonable? I will be stepping up my training. I am asking for constructive advice. Buen Camino to all.
I've walked the Primitivo twice (once in the month of April and this past June) and I never had a water problem. Fill up in the morning before you leave and if you need more, during a coffee stop. I personally would never attempt the Primitivo in the winter due to albergue/cafe closures and chance of running into snow.I am 64 and walking it around May 4th/5th. I live in the Netherlands at the moment, it is flat as a pancake here, not much opportunity to train on hills at all. I am doing lots of step-ups. God knows how it will work out but I don't care, I have faith in myself and as has been said, head down, one step at a time. I am glad for the heads up about water, I have a water bladder and will also invest in a filter or some purification tablets or both. If you can walk 10 miles already I would say you will be fine. 7.5 miles in the morning, a nice lunch, then 7.5 miles in the afternoon to walk it off. I did have the same feeling when the Stairmaster was mentioned? They're killers.... but hey there is only one way to find out. The first step is the hardest.
I walked the Camiño Verde this fall, and I honestly felt that it was just not a superlative alternative. Nothing bad about it, but I had read so many rave reviews that maybe I was expecting something unrealistic. True, it is through untraveled and unpopulated Galicia, but so is the “regular” primitivo. The second day from Friol winds up on the Norte with many kms on the side of the road into Sobrado dos Monxes. I was glad to see the newly cleaned facade of the church of Sobrado dos Monxes, and I really loved my night in the albergue Abeiro da Loba, which is about 6 km beyond Sobrado. So maybe those are reasons enough for Primitivo pilgrims to take the Camiño Verde!Wow! That sounds like a nice detour.
you have no idea how happy it makes me to hear someone of 73 walked it with no problem, at 64 I now have no excuses.I walked the primitivo in 2017 at age 73 and had no problem. There was some up and down,but nothing that could not be done. My hardest day was to Fonsegrada,as I got lost and did an extra 6 km,and was bushed when I got there after 40 km,and much uphill. The whole trip was very doable. I would recommend taking the Camino Verde out of Lugo,and going out of Boimorto,west to Santiago,and keep walking to Muxia.
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