How do I decide which route to take from St. Jean Pieds de P

[mbv1]

I am looking for a bit of advice. I am starting the Camino on the 24th March and I am really anxious about the first stage from SJPDP to Roncesvalles. I would like to do the Route de Napoleon, but how does one know about the weather or changes in the weather. Is it better to do this route over 2 days and stop at Orisson or have an early start and do it in one? Also what is the road route like? I am an older pilgrim and also would feel more confident if there are people around or nearby for this first stage. I feel as if I am being a bit too anxious but would really appreciate some tips and advice from those who have done it at this time of year. Many thanks, Barbara

 

[zammy]

Call the information center in SJPDP and ask if the trail is open, if there's no snow present or warning. If it's open, get to SJPDP , tour the town and climb the first 6 km to Hounto or Orisson and stay the night there, it'll be easier the next day and you won't be alone there for sure.
If conditions are bad don't bother coming to SJPDP and start from Roncevalles.

 

[sillydoll]

What's it like?

It is a steady, steep climb on a small tarred road for 19km, no downs and very few flat sections, until the end. Besides the gradient, neither the first 14km on a tarred road or the last 10 on a path are too challenging. I suppose if you are completely unfit it can be a terribly steep stage but I have taken not-so-fit people on that route and they have all made it and lived to tell their tales! There is a steep down at the end - you have to choose between 6km (road route) or 3km (beech woods).

If you do it in two days it will be a piece of cake. The first 14km or so is on a little tarred road - consistently steep up from St Jean. After 5km you reach Huntto. Stop for a rest and a coffee or coke! At about the 6.4km mark there is a fountain and a table. Stop for a look at the view - if it is a nice day!

Another 2+ km and you reach Orisson. Stay for the night. I think it is €32 for a bed and dinner. If you don't get in, stay another night in St Jean. Get a taxi to fetch you from Orisson and take you back to St Jean (± €8) and bring you back the next day.

3km beyond Orisson you see the statue of the Virgin of Biakorri on the left. (11km)
Stop a while to catch your breath and take photos. Another 2km further a road joins yours from the right. This is the road to Arneguy which is on the Val Carlos route. The tarred road ends about 2km further just after the sign that reads Roncesvaux/Orreaga (15km).

From there you are on a lovely, grass path - still going up but not scary. It is not a rocky mountain track and there is no difficulty in walking it - its just steep. 1.5km later you come to a wooden sign that directs you to the Col Leopoeder and Roncesvalles.
At the 20.5km sign you have two choices - take the path into the beech woods - VERY steeply downhill for 3.5km through the woods which can be trecherous in wet weather - or the slightly longer road route to the Ibañeta pass where the Val Carlos route joins and down to Roncesvalles.

I've walked both routes - Val Carlos and Napoleon. On the Val Carlos route we stayed in a Casa at Val Carlos and then went over the Ibaneta Pass the next day. The scenery is stunning on both routes. There is a lot of off road walking on the road route and the last few kms to the pass on the road route are even steeper than the Route Napoleon! If the weather is bad, do not follow the Camino signs off the road - stay on the road and you'll be OK. A few years ago, in April, a strong, fit, fell walker died after being caught in a snow storm. He was found about 50m from the road.

Send your packs ahead if you want to and just carry essentials in a daypack - many pilgrims do. Your pack will be delivered to La Posada in Roncesvalles.

 

[wayfarer]

As the previous posts have said, check with the pilgrim office in St Jean. If you are considering the lower route have a look at this thread.
Buen Camino.

el-camino-frances/topic16075.html

 

[mspath]

Due to my age I have always walked the Valcarlos alternative route. This goes through the mountains and not over them to Roncevalles. During storms the police often stop at the municipal albergue in SJPdP and stress NOT to use the Napoleon route and only the Valcarlos one. Even so this is not a simple endeavor but very steep just before the Ibaneta pass at 1060 meters. After Ibaneta you can almost float easily down into Roncvevalles. As other posters have mentioned in extreme weather, ie. rain, fog or snow. stay on the road and do NOT walk in the woods.

In Valcarlos/Luzaide the new municipal albergue is a great place to stop. Well maintained, heated and with good facilities it is a bargain at 10 euros including breakfast. You can also reserve your bunk in advance. Here it is on Eroski >> http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es./albergue-de-luzaide-valcarlos.

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Mo0904]

Hi

I am leaving St Jean on 15th March- I emailed the refuge in Orisson about reserving a bed but they said that they will not have opened yet on that date. They suggested perhaps using a gite 800m before the refuge but this is for a bed only, no food. I have decided that I will use the Valcarlos route instead.

If you want to stop in Orisson, I would suggest emailing the refuge at refuge.orisson@wanadoo.fr and asking if they will be open by the 24th March.

 

[SuzyQ]

Thanks so much for starting this thread. I am hoping to leave in mid- to late August and am already experiencing some angst about this first day. At this exact moment, 25 km and 1400m of vertical is very intimidating, especially in light of my fitness level, which is somewhere between "moderately fit" and "needs to spend more time off of the couch." I had considered either splitting the Napoleon route into two legs, taking the Valcarlos route (and perhaps splitting it), or just starting from Roncesvalles. It is very helpful to know that I am not the only one pondering these questions.

 

[Olivares]

The anxiety, doubts, and trepidation before embarking on the Camino are absolutely normal and even necessary. DO NOT let these feelings hold you back and use them to get you focus and determination. I never walked more than 5 miles at a time in my life and yet completed the first day SJPDP to Roncesvalles in less than 8 hours and felt amazing. The climb on this route is somewhat gradual, so if you walk slow as you go up, you don't really feel the climb. DO NOT RACE, use a baggage transfer service on this first day, and take breaks at least every 2 hours.

Definitely whether is March or August the stop at the SJPDP Pilgrims Office is a MUST. They have very knowledgeable, local volunteers that will answer any questions, including whether the Pass is even open, it may not be and you may have no choice, but to go the Valcarlos Route. Honestly, in March, I would plan to go the Valcarlos route, regardless.

 

[mbv1]

Thankyou so much everyone for the really helpful information. It is so good to know that all these people are out there who have so much experience of the Camino and a 'first timers' anxieties.
Buen Camino!

Barbara