Impressions of the Camino de Madrid

[Phillypilgrim]

I don't really have anything to add to all the recent information on way marking and accommodations. "Kinkyone" has provided so much recent detail, and I am very grateful for that and his support too. I just want to add some of my very personal impressions.
I walked the CdM the first two weeks in September. I was unprepared for how hot and exposed the first 5 days were, it was 95 degrees. I went alone, I'm 61 (60 at the time) and I don't speak Spanish, so I am here to say, yes, it can be done. Although I researched it thoroughly and thought I was prepared for how solitary a walk it is, you really can't prepare for that. I met two Canadian Pilgrims for 30 minutes, one Spanish bicycle Pilgrim for one night and a Spanish Pilgrim couple who I could not really communicate with (though we tried!) over 3 nights in the albergues. I walked alone and ate every meal alone for 16 days. This was a very challenging Camino, but I am so happy I did it. The major difference, I think, from the Camino Frances, is that you are immersed in Spanish culture, not Pilgrim culture. There is no Pilgrim culture because there are no Pilgrims. Every single encounter I had was kind, helpful and delightful. I felt like I was really in Spain, it was fantastic. I did have a meltdown or two, but I recovered and kept going. Along with Segovia and Medina, I really enjoyed my stay in Ane believe it or not, the runt of the CdM albergues! If anyone has questions about it, please feel free to ask.

 

[Al the optimist]

Well done. Nice feedback, thanks.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, phillypilgrim, good to hear you enjoyed the C de M! Did you stay in the albergue outside Segovia, or did you stay somewhere in the city itself? And what was it about Ane? I've never stayed there but have only heard all the bad reports, so there must be something everyone is missing. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Thanks Al!
Hi Laurie, I stayed in Segovia at a beautiful renovated monastery hotel, "Hotel San Antonia el Real" the first night and the albergue in Zamarramala the second night. This gave me plenty of time to explore Segovia.
I was armed with plenty of food when I reached Ane. As soon as I entered the village I met a young 20 something girl from Madrid, Isabella, who was visiting her grandparents (this happened more than once) who spoke some english and was bored. She immediately took me and my mission under her wing. She rang the bell of the villager who had the key to the albergue, no answer (this also happened more than once), then we walked to the town hall. Another young woman was there and after a few phone calls they discovered the "key holder" was in Segovia until midnight. I was offered an office and bathroom in town hall for the night which I accepted and was grateful. Then I was led to another house where an older gentleman had a key to something, he did not know what. Turned out it was the key to the old school room albergue! So, I was SO happy to settle in. I showered, did laundry, and mopped the bathroom, cleaned the sink and toilet, swept the main room and claimed the place as my own. I think the act of cleaning and nesting is a powerful one, and I just fell in love with the place. A knock on the door and I was given a melon from a farmer who heard a Pilgrim was there. I love Ane! (above photo interior of Ane albergue)

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Outside view of Ane albergue

 

[Canuck]

This is not the Ane albergue I saw two years ago.
Nice improvement from the previous very sad state it was in then.

 

[giorgio]

Looks like the only problem for Ane stopover will be food...

 

[peregrina2000]

Looks like the only problem for Ane stopover will be food...

If Ane is like other towns on other caminos, as soon as a significant number of people start using the albergue, there will be an enterprising senora in town who will offer food, or some other "informal" arrangement will develop.

Hard to believe that on my first Camino Frances, in the town of Eirexe, there was no place to eat, but the family next door offered two "seatings" in their dining room and provided a meal. She's closed the operation now, if not voluntarily then by virtue of health inspectors, because it was a disaster, but no one went hungry! (and no one got sick to my knowledge).

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Why I like Segovia and Medina.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I loved the Camino Madrid, but I walked in early May, and the weather was gorgeous!
I enjoyed the solitude...

 

[janecaroline]

Just to say that I stayed in Segovia the first night as I was tired and needed a day to recover and reset emotionally after my first four solitary days out of Madrid in late August - and stayed at the Hostel Duerme Vela run by the welcoming and beautiful Blanca and Guillermo. It cost me 18.5 euros and was worth every euro - an oasis in the beautiful city. The next night I stayed in Zarramala.
For me this Camino was a huge personal challenge - I had expected it to be solitary at times but I was not prepared to walk the whole 12 days to Sahugun entirely alone.
I was met with nothing but kindness the whole way by local people - and was given exactly what I needed when I really needed it - but I did have times when I was totally out of my comfort zone and doubted my ability to keep going. But I did and am just so grateful that I was drawn to this route and it taught me so much more about myself. So grateful for all the experiences and just want to be back walking again..... Buen Camino

 

[Phillypilgrim]

janecaroline, you are also describing my journey on the CdeM.

 

[janecaroline]

And you described mine! I think we were walking about the same time - it was VERY hot!

janecaroline, you are also describing my journey on the CdeM.