LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino de Madrid

[Camino Chrissy]

Hello all,
My son and I arrived in Madrid on Friday morning and and went straight to Segovia, spending two days sightseeing. It's a lovely city with its main attractions being the amazing 1st century Aqueduct in its original condition, which we walked it all the way around the corner to its very end; the Alcazar castle; and the humongous cathedral where we took a tour which included climbing the 190 steps of its tower with awesome city views below.

We left Segovia this morning after getting our sellos, for a short day of only 13k to Los Huertos, walking on a warm sunny day. Leaving Segovia was beautiful, and eventually joined the meseta; quite interesting and lovely in its own way; seeing new terrain in gold hues as fall is here.

We checked in early to the rather new looking albergue with only four beds and we are sharing the bunks with two older Spanish gentlemen. We showered and explored the little town, stopping at the bar for two drinks each and complimentary tapas. We are going back later for their specialty Sunday dinner of Galacian stew. The bartender's dad cooks it in the back kitchen.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hello all,
My son and I arrived in Madrid on Friday morning and and went straight to Segovia, spending two days sightseeing. It's a lovely city with its main attractions being the amazing 1st century Aqueduct in its original condition, which we walked it all the way around the corner to its very end; the Alcazar castle; and the humongous cathedral where we took a tour which included climbing the 190 steps of its tower with awesome city views below.

It's such a wonderful route!
See the church at Wamba and the Museum of Semana Santa at Medina and the frescoes behind the altar at Alcazaran .... so much to see!
Makes me want to walk it again!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Yay, yay, yay...another Chrissy Adventure to follow!
Glad you arrived safely & are both on Your Way.
Stunning photos. The light is so special & lends such atmosphere to the architectural features...whether they be of stone or straw!
Safe & happy trails.

 

[David Tallan]

It's such a wonderful route!
See the church at Wamba and the Museum of Semana Santa at Medina and the frescoes behind the altar at Alcazaran .... so much to see!
Makes me want to walk it again!

How did I miss the frescoes in Alcazarén? I'll have to do the Madrid again.

 

[naplesdon]

The museum in Medina is incredible. I would love to visit that town during the fete.

 

[Anniesantiago]

How did I miss the frescoes in Alcazarén? I'll have to do the Madrid again.

It was a fascinating story, David.
For generations, children would go behind the retablo (because adults wouldn't fit) and would tell the adults, "There are people back there!" Everyone just laughed and thought the kids were making it up. Then one year they moved the retablo out for repairs/cleaning and guess what they found!

Here are some photos on my blog:
Alcazaran Surprise

 

[t2andreo]

I am SOOO jealous. Everyone else is going on Caminos, while I am stuck at home caregiving for my critically ill wife. Don't get me wrong. My duty is definitely here. But my heart is THERE. But still...

I see you cut off the first 4-5 "gritty" days coming out of Madrid. IMHO, the route, after Segovia is much nicer. But, that is just my reminiscence from 2016.

In the first bit, pre-Segovia, there are the urban and industrial areas to contend with, then the steep climb up and over the mountains. After Segovia, the terrain becomes more "Camino normal," with rolling terrain and epic views.

Enjoy the walk. It should be trouble free. We appreciate your reports.

Buen Camino!

Tom

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am SOOO jealous. Everyone else is going on Caminos, while I am stuck at home caregiving for my critically ill wife. Don't get me wrong. My duty is definitely here. But my heart is THERE. But still...

I see you cut off the first 4-5 "gritty" days coming out of Madrid. IMHO, the route, after Segovia is much nicer. But, that is just my reminiscence from 2016.

In the first bit, pre-Segovia, there are the urban and industrial areas to contend with, then the steep climb up and over the mountains. After Segovia, the terrain becomes more "Camino normal," with rolling terrain and epic views.

Enjoy the walk. It should be trouble free. We appreciate your reports.

Buen Camino!

Tom

Tom, I know you love all things "Camino". I was glad to hear your wife is back home, so definitely something to still rejoice in while you wait to go again.
I chose to skip those first few days of the Madrid mainly because I am still going to Physical Therapy for my shoulder after breaking my arm last spring. I wanted to do a less difficult, yet new Camino as I've done the majority of the main ones and I was a bit "gun shy" to go the 30k day walking up and over that "mountain" near the beginning. Starting in Segovia sounded like a good plan for me to avoid it.

 

[t2andreo]

I have to remember that, the next time I choose to walk the Camino de Madrid.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Great photos (as always)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2 (on the trail)-

I forgot to mention yesterday that no one on this route so far has spoken any English, but google translate has worked well to communicate to the four Spanish pilgrims we have seen so far.

We left Los Huertos this morning by 8:45 as we waited in bed for the other two men to get ready first, pack up and head out. I then teased my son and said it was like having our own private room, even though we were in the top bunks all night. I don't think I have had the top bunk more than just a few times since my first Camino in 2015...it's easy to get spoiled with the bottom bunks.

Today started out chilly, but it felt invigorating and refreshing. We approached the interesting pine forests around 10:30am where they notch the trees and collect the resin sap in small buckets. After a pleasant hour of walking in the woods, we entered the vast meseta for the remainder of the day with rolling hills and occasional fields of dried up sunflowers on a very warm day.
It seemed like a long slog with almost no shade and no towns between leaving Los Huertos and the end of our 18.5k day. Thankfully we had good seeded bread, cans of tuna, and Valor dark chocolate w/almonds for a picnic lunch, and I always eventually wet a bandana around my neck on really warm days.

We walked through a couple of tiny hamlets and I am always intrigued by the very old stone structures and defunct properties with their "patina".

We ended our day at Hostal Avanta/restaurante, and are now back in our room with nice cool AC after enjoying a nice meal. I actually had fish tonight with no bones; a first for me in Spain.




P.S. This hostal wifi has been very slow for adding more pictures tonight.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

@Camino Chrissy, how's your arm doing now you've done a few full days back to back? Any niggles/discomfort? Hope not.

Lovely having your dispatches to look forward to (nearly) every morning...no pressure though!
Enjoy

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3
Today was full sun and we left the meseta behind for now as we walked on. It became rather warm after our picnic lunch of tuna/olive sandwiches on the rest of our bread. We'd stopped at the weekly outdoor market in Santa Maria la Real de Nieva and picked up three plums and fresh cookies to complete our picnic.
The highlight of this town were the amazing cloisters that are part of the monastery and open to the public free of charge. Each column depicts many scenes of life; no two are the same.

The other unique highlight of the day was walking through literally miles of pine trees (18 million hectares), where notches are cut in the trunks and tapped to provide literally thousands of small buckets of sap/resin, used for tires, glues, varnishes, and plastics; an ancient method collected and processed. The forests seemed to go on forever and are third in production behind China and Brazil. After leaving the forests we walked along next to a massive quarry.
Not sure what the climbing plant is, but the bees sure iked it. I thought I'd end my pictures with a bit of greenery.

We ended our 16k walk today in the town of Navia of the Assumption. The original little muni with four beds was closed and I was hot and quite tired after walking in the heat, so we opted for the local hotel with AC instead of walking on to the large muni further along. We stopped at a Dia grocery and picked up food for dinner, breakfast, and lunch tomorrow as supposedly there is nowhere to stop before our destination of Coca.

We met no pilgrims today, nor anyone who spoke English that we came into contact with. This interesting and unique Camino would benefit solitary pilgrims who prefer their own company and hopefully know some Spanish to enjoy some interaction with the locals, or it would be quite lonely imo.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Camino Chrissy, how's your arm doing now you've done a few full days back to back? Any niggles/discomfort? Hope not.

Lovely having your dispatches to look forward to (nearly) every morning...no pressure though!
Enjoy

Thanks for asking, Kaz. My arm is doing even better than I hoped. The movements that are limiting do not affect wearing the back pack and do not even ache. I do try to do a few exercises with a stretch band I brought which helps.
I'm a bit too wordy in my posts; they seem to get long before I finish.

 

[VNwalking]

IIm really enjoying following your camino, Chris. Lovely photos. And please don't worry about being 'too wordy!'

Not sure what the climbing plant is, but the bees sure iked it.

It's ivy, bees' best friend in the autumn.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

IIm really enjoying following your camino, Chris. Lovely photos. And please don't worry about being 'too wordy!'

It's ivy, bees' best friend in the autumn.

Thanks! I always think of ivy as English ivy with no flowers. I'd not seen this variety before, but it was pretty and the bees didn't like me.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi Chrissy,

I love this route and am really surprised it has not become more popular. I look at it as a mini Frances. Mountains in the beginning, Forest and then Meseta to Sahagun. You missed a couple of interesting cities on the way up to the Mountain and the walk over Cercedilla to Segovia is not terrible but it is a long day. Segovia is definitely the highlight of this route and the bleeding forest as I refer to it is a nice walk. I do not recall having any issues with communication and it was very sparsely traveled. I never met more than two Pilgrims on either trip.

Do you plan on walking past Sahagun? Maybe we can catch up when you return from your Camino. Starved Rock is beautiful in the Fall.

 

[MikeJS]

Hi Chrissy,

I love this route and am really surprised it has not become more popular.

I do not think it will become more popular until the albergues and places to eat are better coordinated. Too many times there were one but not the other. Fine by me as I always take food with me but it will not suit the majority.mI walked this year from Sept 12 to 20 Sep.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Chrissy,

I love this route and am really surprised it has not become more popular. I look at it as a mini Frances. Mountains in the beginning, Forest and then Meseta to Sahagun. You missed a couple of interesting cities on the way up to the Mountain and the walk over Cercedilla to Segovia is not terrible but it is a long day. Segovia is definitely the highlight of this route and the bleeding forest as I refer to it is a nice walk. I do not recall having any issues with communication and it was very sparsely traveled. I never met more than two Pilgrims on either trip.

Do you plan on walking past Sahagun? Maybe we can catch up when you return from your Camino. Starved Rock is beautiful in the Fall.

Hi Joe, nice to hear from you. Yes, let's meet up at Starved Rock State Park again after I return home on the 26th, near the end of October.

I know I missed some of the early gems on the Madrid route, but I was not comfortable going up and over the mountain for such a long day. I love that you describe the forest as "the bleeding forest"...so perfect. In fact, we just finished earlier today walking a second day of it.

We will end in Sahagun and stop for two nights in Avila on our way back to Madrid.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4
The walking today left a lot to be desired for me as It was mostly walking through the forests where the sap is collected. It was interesting yesterday, but not so much today, and the wide paths were filled with quite a bit of sand to walk through. My son found a nice spot for our picnic lunch overlooking a valley, so we took advantage of eating with a view.

We ended our day finally in Coca; checked into our adorable Air Bnb, and cleaned up before heading to the Castle. It was definitely the highlight of this day. Entrance fee was a mere €3/each and it was very interesting place built in the 1400's. We wandered around and took many photos; eventually climbing over 100+ steps to the castle tower for some great views of the town and cathedral.
There is another tower just outside town with 170 steps to climb...I'll have to think about that in the morning as we pass by on our way out of town to see if I am "up" for it.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Snap!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

The road ahead tomorrow.

 

[David Tallan]

I do not think it will become more popular until the albergues and places to eat are better coordinated. Too many times there were one but not the other. Fine by me as I always take food with me but it will not suit the majority.mI walked this year from Sept 12 to 20 Sep.

I don't remember that issue. I think the lack of an albergue in Santa Maria la Real de Nieva and the fact that mostly only Spanish is spoken are challenges to making it a really popular route. As Chrissy says, I would generally be recommending it to people who are up for a more solitary walk and who can get by in Spanish (or are ready to spend a lot of time with a translation app).

 

[David Tallan]

Well, if @DoughnutANZ is going to add his photo....
The castles were definitely one of the highlights of the Camino de Madrid. But you still have Wamba to come, and with that and the cloister in Santa Maria la Real de Nieva the churches hold their own. You haven't seen the last of of those pine forests, although I think you've made it through the biggest stretches.

 

[jungleboy]

Wendy and I enjoyed the pine forests in the middle stages of the Camino de Madrid. Wendy especially liked the soft walking surface that is best for her plantar fasciitis.



Unfortunately it rained the whole time we were in Coca, so we didn’t visit the castle.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Wendy and I enjoyed the pine forests in the middle stages of the Camino de Madrid. Wendy especially liked the soft walking surface that is best for her plantar fasciitis.

View attachment 158182

Unfortunately it rained the whole time we were in Voca, so we didn’t visit the castle.

Nick, I did enjoy the pine forests and it was amazing how literally thousands are tapped and scarred, yet no one around collecting the buckets of sap. I was thankful that they provided quite a bit of intermittent shade on a very warm day.
I can see how the sand helped cushion Wendy's feet, although for me, it slowed me down a bit.

 

[VNwalking]

We will end in Sahagun and stop for two nights in Avila on our way back to Madrid.

Wonderful idea.
A ways to walk before that, though. Wamba...I really hope you can get in. A pity there's no albergue there.
Here's the info in case you don' have it at your fingertips:

The church is open for tours (in Spanish) on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00-1:30 and 4:30-6:30.
I stayed in Cigunuela on a Saturday night, so I easily covered 7km and arrived in Wamba for the 11:00 Tour. Then I walked on to Peñaflor, 7.7km further, and stayed in the Albergue there.

Edited to add:
People have seen Great Bustards on the last bit before Sahagun. Really worth pausing to to look for them if you see 'evidence' - they're special!

For those on the Camino de Madrid I saw Great Bustards near, and between, Santervás de Campos and Grajal de Campos April 15 & 16. Magnificent birds

 

[MikeJS]

Edited to add:
People have seen Great Bustards on the last bit before Sahagun. Really worth pausing to to look for them if you see 'evidence' - they're special!

Yes, I saw them on that bit just before Sahagun, there were at least 3 plus 3or 4 other hawks...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5
We had a very short day walking only 7k to the small town of Villeguillio because we had split up a Gronze stage in two parts so we could overnight halfway in Coca to take a tour of the unique and amazing castle located there. We loved our charming apartment with its little balcony and view of the big church on the plaza, so enjoyed staying longer this morning.


Today was great as the views were interesting with "umbrella" pine trees were on our left side and very nice views/vistas on our right side of a valley for much of the way. We chose a nice shady spot for our picnic lunch of the "usual". Later it flattened out again and there were commercial fields of carrots and potatoes before reaching the town. It has only one bar and and an albergue with ten beds at €8/person (a bargain) where we are staying tonight with a Spanish couple who live in Barcelona. They have walked caminos since 2008 and have been hospis three times. They know just enough English to have a bit of conversation, which was nice. Besides this couple, only two bikagrinos passed by us today.

It feels kind of odd to have ended our day so early. We had a drink at the only bar and will go back this evening for dinner after showering in the very nice, clean bathrooms. The kitchen is quite large with all the appliances you would need to cook, but with no grocery store in town, it probably is used very little. In the meantime we are hanging out using our phones in our bunks to pass the time as there is literally nothing else to see or do in this quiet town. All in all it was a pleasant day with some R & R.

 

[alansykes]

There is another tower just outside town with 170 steps to climb...I'll have to think about that in the morning as we pass by on our way out of town to see if I am "up" for it.

And, were you?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

And, were you?

View attachment 158225

We walked by the tower at a little after 10:00am on our way out of town. The tourist office had told us yesterday that it opened at ten, but it was locked up tight with no one in sight. We reluctantly passed on by, not knowing how long we may have to wait...thanks for asking. At least we did get a couple of nice pictures though, like yours. Did you get to climb?

 

[alansykes]

Did you get to climb?

Sadly not, no accommodation in Cola was available then, or none that I or a helpful barman could find (November 2021 - covid) so I reluctantly had to press on to Villeguillo, without even having time to go round the castle. Enjoy Alcazarén tomorrow.

 

[DTCamino]

Sadly not, no accommodation in Cola was available then, or none that I or a helpful barman could find (November 2021 - covid) so I reluctantly had to press on to Villeguillo, without even having time to go round the castle. Enjoy Alcazarén tomorrow.

It’s the St Nicolas tower!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6
The sun was filtered somewhat today, which helped the temperature stay quite pleasant on our 20k walk to Alcazaren. The signage has normally been very good on this Camino, but we missed a turn coming out of the forest as we were watching rows of sprinklers ahead of us watering vegetable fields. I think it added a few kilometers to our day.
There was no infrastructure at all between the two towns, but we had plenty of water with electrolytes added, and granola bars, so we managed.
It turned cloudy by the end of the day, and finally just a few sprinkles, but we didn't need to get out our umbrellas. We picked up the albergue key at the bar and it was completely full with groups of men laughing and playing cards. It was too loud and busy for me, so we opted for an early grocery store dinner of Caesar salads, extra cheese and crisps eaten at the little table in this small donativo albergue.

i'm including few pictures tonight as we had two types of scenery everywhere we walked; beautiful pine forests and flat agriculture fields. My last picture is of a cute little plant struggling to live in the man-made environment on a very old wall. I call it..."Where there's a will, there is a way".

 

[J Willhaus]

The sun was filtered somewhat today, which helped the temperature stay quite pleasant on our 20k walk to Alcazaren. The signage has normally been very good on this Camino, but we missed a turn coming out of the forest as we were watching rows of sprinklers ahead of us watering vegetable fields. I think it added a few kilometers to our day.
There was no infrastructure at all between the two towns, but we had plenty of water with electrolytes added, and granola bars, so we managed.
It turned cloudy by the end of the day, and finally just a few sprinkles, but we didn't need to get out our umbrellas. We picked up the albergue key at the bar and it was completely full with groups of men laughing and playing cards. It was too loud and busy for me, so we opted for an early grocery store dinner of Caesar salads, extra cheese and crisps eaten at the little table in this small donativo albergue.

i'm including few pictures tonight as we had two types of scenery everywhere we walked; beautiful pine forests and flat agriculture fields. My last picture is of a cute little plant struggling to live in the man-made environment on a very old wall. I call it..."Where there's a will, there is a way".
View attachment 158303View attachment 158304View attachment 158306View attachment 158307View attachment 158308View attachment 158309

Yes, I have been in those bars with the men playing cards. They are often shooed out after siesta and then maybe to return to watch a football game in the evening...

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Great photos

 

[jpflavin1]

The Donativo albergue in Puente Duero is a nice place. I believe the Hospitalero cooked dinner. There are also stores and restaurants in town.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

e picked up the albergue key at the bar and it was completely full with groups of men laughing and playing cards.

It is a club or association for older or retired people.
.

I must have looked hot and dusty when I went in to pick up the key and asked for a beer because the woman serving pulled the biggest, ice cold beer that I have had since I can remember and it was very cheap. The groups of men were playing cards when I was there too.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

If you are into Rugby, which you probably are not, then on Saturday night there is a huge game between the All Blacks and Ireland in Paris and a hop, skip and jump away from where you are now is Valladolid, the home of Rugby in Spain and if you go to The Rugby Bar in Valladolid on Saturday night you will be able to watch the game live on the bar TV in an incredible (and probably very loud) environment.

Almost as good as being at the game itself!

 

[David Tallan]

It is a club or association for older or retired people.
.View attachment 158311 View attachment 158312

I must have looked hot and dusty when I went in to pick up the key and asked for a beer because the woman serving pulled the biggest, ice cold beer that I have had since I can remember and it was very cheap. The groups of men were playing cards when I was there too.

It wasn't so busy when a fellow pilgrim and I went there for comida. They had the biggest platos combinados I think I've seen:

 

[DTCamino]

It wasn't so busy when a fellow pilgrim and I went there for comida. They had the biggest platos combinados I think I've seen:
View attachment 158313

I felt the food there is quite good, and the men do fade away to be replaced by couples and families at night. We had the combination plates for lunch and a wonderful “Sopa de Ajo” for dinner there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Wow, guys, it looks like we really missed out on some wonderful food.

 

[VNwalking]

Wow, guys, it looks like we really missed out on some wonderful food.

Next time?

 

[Anniesantiago]

Chrissy, is the albergue at Nava de Asuncion closed for good? Or was it just closed on that day?

 

[Anniesantiago]

... and you missed the church at Alcazaran and its hidden frescos.

Wow, guys, it looks like we really missed out on some wonderful food.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy, is the albergue at Nava de Asuncion closed for good? Or was it just closed on that day?

We were going to stay at the very small muni albergue on the edge of the soccer field, but it was closed; I assume permanently. The other bigger hostal was farther away, plus it was €18/each so opted for a hotel in town closer. We did walk by that bigger one on our way out of town and it was open.

.. and you missed the church at Alcazaran and its hidden frescos.

Unfortunately the church was not open, same as the majority of them, but we always try to get in.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7
The weather was near perfect today, but I did not feel up for a rushed day in the city of Valladolid as I was pooped out. It is the weekend, so I knew there would be more crowds than usual, so we are staying in Valdestiles in a newer nice room above a bar..
Nothing of significance today, but here are a few pictures.
Another cute plastic bottle recycling bin.

 

[Anniesantiago]

We were going to stay at the very small muni albergue on the edge of the soccer field, but it was closed; I assume permanently. The other bigger hostal was farther away, plus it was €18/each so opted for a hotel in town closer. We did walk by that bigger one on our way out of town and it was open.


Unfortunately the church was not open, same as the majority of them, but we always try to get in.

The man at the TI has the key to let you in if it's not too late. But I guess it's about 1 am there. Bummer.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hi @Camino Chrissy ,

In the past you've mentioned some prebooking of Caminos. Is this one different because it is less traveled? Are there opportunities to book?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi @Camino Chrissy ,

In the past you've mentioned some prebooking of Caminos. Is this one different because it is less traveled? Are there opportunities to book?

Yes, I prefer to prebook and was able to plan about half of the rooms that way. The Madrid is far less travelled and many small towns only have small municipal albergues.with no hospis. So far there have been no towns in between the stages we are walking. We still have met no one who speaks English and only the one very small four bed muni was full. I am not complaining as everything has worked out well so far.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The man at the TI has the key to let you in if it's not too late. But I guess it's about 1 am there. Bummer.

I don't know what the TI is, but i guess I didn't do enough research ahead of time on this Camino.

 

[C clearly]

TI might mean "Tourist Information."

It's nice to follow your walk!

 

[DTCamino]

Yes, I prefer to prebook and was able to plan about half of the rooms that way. The Madrid is far less travelled and many small towns only have small municipal albergues.with no hospis. So far there have been no towns in between the stages we are walking. We still have met no one who speaks English and only the one very small four bed muni was full. I am not complaining as everything has worked out well so far.

When I finished the Madrid last week I was able to prebook all stages but Penaflor and Alcazaren. I ended up traveling with a really good group of peregrinos I met and wished I hadn’t prebooked so much so I could have stayed with them in the albergues!

 

[David Tallan]

When I finished the Madrid last week I was able to prebook all stages but Penaflor and Alcazaren. I ended up traveling with a really good group of peregrinos I met and wished I hadn’t prebooked so much so I could have stayed with them in the albergues!

If I recall correctly (I should go and check the thread but I am feeling exceptionally lazy today) you were walking longer stages than Chrissy is.

 

[DTCamino]

If I recall correctly (I should go and check the thread but I am feeling exceptionally lazy today) you were walking longer stages than Chrissy is.

That could be, I think we stayed in only about 5 of the same towns so far. After seeing the MikeJS stages it felt like I was taking baby steps in comparison…

 

[Anniesantiago]

I don't know what the TI is, but i guess I didn't do enough research ahead of time on this Camino.

There is a Tourist Information office just as you enter the village. They have the keys to the church.

 

[David Tallan]

It

That could be, I think we stayed in only about 5 of the same towns so far. After seeing the MikeJS stages it felt like I was taking baby steps in comparison…

Was probably MikeJS I was thinking about who was going so much further each day than I.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If I recall correctly (I should go and check the thread but I am feeling exceptionally lazy today) you were walking longer stages than Chrissy is.

I think everyone who walks the Madrid walks longer stages than me. I'm glad there are no special rules.

 

[DTCamino]

I think everyone who walks the Madrid walks longer stages than me. I'm glad there are no special rules.

Your stages sound great! You are definitely getting the most out of the trip.
I like the idea of an unrushed trip, I always feel so under pressure to get finished as my time is so short there. I think part of that is my obsession with prebooking rooms. Then you’re stuck with distances that maybe you really didn’t want.
When I asked the Spanish peregrinos I was walking with how many days they were taking to walk the Camino they stated “however many it takes”. They refused to be rushed and were not going to walk over 25k unless there was no other choice. Maybe someday, sigh…

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8
Temperatures were great for walking today and the cloud cover didn't bother my spirits at all. We had a nice mix of umbrella tree forests, and an attractive town to pass through on our was to Simancas.
As soon as we arrived at our hotel by mid afternoon, it started raining. The reception gal spoke a little bit of English and when we asked about restaurants for dinner later, she said only one restaurant was open on Sunday at 8:30pm. Well, it was located in the high part of town on the big hill and we were in the low part, so with drizzly rain we decided to eat in...granola bars and chocolate.
We also decided to make a spur of the moment detour tomorrow (winging it) and take a bus to Valladolid after all for one night as it will not change any lodging commitments we had made going forward. The negative is that although it skips only one night on the camino, it is two days of walking, so if "cheating" is a Camino word, then I guess we are doing it. I will really miss seeing Wamba's Santa Maria church and its Ossuary, but it is only open on the weekends and we'd be passing through on Monday. Weather tomorrow is potential rain and the following day has a high wind advisory which doesn't sound appealing on the upcoming sparse meseta landscape.

 

[David Tallan]

I think everyone who walks the Madrid walks longer stages than me. I'm glad there are no special rules.

I dunno. I took about three weeks to get to Sahagun and my last stage was only 6 km.

 

[VNwalking]

I will really miss seeing Wamba's Santa Maria church and its Ossuary, but it is only open on the weekends and we'd be passing through on Monday

Bummer.
Word to the wise, thanks.
When I get around to slowly walking the Madrid I'm going to arrange everything around Wamba's opening hours.
(Isn't the church itself open more days than that, though?)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Bummer.
Word to the wise, thanks.
When I get around to slowly walking the Madrid I'm going to arrange everything around Wamba's opening hours.
(Isn't the church itself open more days than that, though?)

Yes, a bummer. I booked the trip quickly and I knew about Wamba, but never researched its extremely limited opening hours at the church. When I have looked recently online, they seemed to be the same; two days on the weekend. For me it is a moot point now as it is already Monday.

 

[jungleboy]

(Isn't the church itself open more days than that, though?)

I went inside on a Wednesday in 2019, FWIW.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I went inside on a Wednesday in 2019, FWIW.

Possibly what I read are the days and hours for the guided tours only, but it wasn't made clear that the church/ossuary are open to the public without a tour. Maybe a little extra "digging" (pun intended) online for info will help future pilgrims plan accordingly.

 

[jungleboy]

Possibly what I read are the days and hours for the guided tours only, but it wasn't made clear that the church/ossuary are open to the public without a tour. Maybe a little extra "digging" (pun intended) online for info will help future pilgrims plan accordingly.

I think we got lucky that someone else had arranged a guided tour in advance right around the time we showed up, so we were able to piggy-back off them.

 

[Kirkie]

Day 8
Temperatures were great for walking today and the cloud cover didn't bother my spirits at all. We had a nice mix of umbrella tree forests, and an attractive town to pass through on our was to Simancas.
As soon as we arrived at our hotel by mid afternoon, it started raining. The reception gal spoke a little bit of English and when we asked about restaurants for dinner later, she said only one restaurant was open on Sunday at 8:30pm. Well, it was located in the high part of town on the big hill and we were in the low part, so with drizzly rain we decided to eat in...granola bars and chocolate.
We also decided to make a spur of the moment detour tomorrow (winging it) and take a bus to Valladolid after all for one night as it will not change any lodging commitments we had made going forward. The negative is that although it skips only one night on the camino, it is two days of walking, so if "cheating" is a Camino word, then I guess we are doing it. I will really miss seeing Wamba's Santa Maria church and its Ossuary, but it is only open on the weekends and we'd be passing through on Monday. Weather tomorrow is potential rain and the following day has a high wind advisory which doesn't sound appealing on the upcoming sparse meseta landscape.
View attachment 158448View attachment 158449View attachment 158450View attachment 158451View attachment 158452View attachment 158453

Cheating? Hardly, Chrissy. You do not need to return home with a verified paper to show your bishop! Valladolid should offer plenty of history for you. It has always been a name known in Scotland. By some. Keep the posts coming, and I totally understand the decision to leave an unnecessary hill to its own devices at the end of a day's walking.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I think we got lucky that someone else had arranged a guided tour in advance right around the time we showed up, so we were able to piggy-back off them.

I did see this morning that it can be arranged ahead of time for guided tours. Sounds like you were lucky!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Valladolid information suggests that they are the Tapas capital of Spain. Be sure to try some of the great food when you get to Valladolid.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

we had good seeded bread, cans of tuna, and Valor dark chocolate w/almonds

we decided to eat in...granola bars and chocolate

Valladolid information suggests that they are the Tapas capital of Spain. Be sure to try some of the great food when you get to Valladolid.

Do they have chocolate?

 

[DTCamino]

Yes, a bummer. I booked the trip quickly and I knew about Wamba, but never researched its extremely limited opening hours at the church. When I have looked recently online, they seemed to be the same; two days on the weekend. For me it is a moot point now as it is already Monday.

I wasn’t able to get in either due to the limited hours, this is as close as I got. I’m already thinking about doing again, so maybe next time I’ll make sure I can see it. And Vallodolid and San Ildefonso etc…
The Madrid was so pretty and with so little concrete walking it bears repeating. And who knows maybe in a year or two some of those bars that are closed will reopen! (Ane for one)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9
The bus ride to Valladolid was only about 35 minutes and dropped us off at the beautiful 19th century Parque Campo Grande, so we decided to walk through and enjoy it first before unloading our backpacks off at our hotel. The park was so green and full of gorgeous old trees, manicured shrubs, fountains. Many peacocks and unusual ducks roam around and cute red squirrels I'd never seen before. The park was a highlight of the city for me.

We next stopped in at the tourist office and an English speaking worker helped us choose a few areas of historical significance to visit off the Plaza Mayor and near our hotel with a map and booklet. Unfortunately, being Monday, the huge cathedral, other churches and the Sculpture museum suggested by Laurie were closed, but we may stay long enough today to see a few before leaving to go back to the Camino.

Our eating experiences were rather disappointing and I know it is because we do not speak enough Spanish to order correctly although we did try to use google translate. I have memories of good tapas in other Spain cities, but not here in Valladolid.

Much of the architecture was special and the day spent in the historical city center has been a nice change of pace from this Camino's rather sparse fall landscape so far.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

More of Valladolid...

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Do they have chocolate?

Did you mean chocolate cake. Or


Chocolate with ice cream and coffee. Or


Semi-liquid chocolate?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

View attachment 158575
Did you mean chocolate cake. Or

View attachment 158576
Chocolate with ice cream and coffee. Or

View attachment 158577
Semi-liquid chocolate?

I remember all of your pictures of beautiful desserts along the Madrid, or are these all from a sugarfest in Valladolid?

 

[VNwalking]

Unfortunately, being Monday, the huge cathedral, other churches and the Sculpture museum suggested by Laurie were closed,

Grf. Bad luck there too. But the garden looks gorgeous.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Grf. Bad luck there too. But the garden looks gorgeous.

It was gorgeous and had many peacocks strutting around. They didn't have their plumes out, but I knew what they look like anyway.

We just checked into the albergue in Medina. I will write on the Live thread later, nut we did visit the sculpture museum (thanks, Laurie, for the tip!), and It was remarkable! Got into the main Cathedral, as well.
.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 10
Surprisingly the sky was mostly blue this morning in Valladolid. We made sure we arrived at the Sculpture museum exactly at 10:00am when it opened. Only a few people trickled in behind us and we nearly had all the exhibits to ourselves. It is remarkable what can be done with wood in intricate carving and then finish with ultra-detailed painting and layering of other finishes!

Our visit to the Cathedral was next. I thought it rather dark and lacking some of the finer ornamentation of other cathedrals; having a rather "chunky" and fortress feel imo, but I do not study church architecture, so it's just a generic observation. The highlight for me was the older woman playing the organ. The beautiful music reverberated in the cavernous sanctuary and sounded amazing.

We returned to our room to check out and want to give a big thumbs up to Hostal Paris. The location was right around the corner from the Plaza Mayor, and our corner room had many large windows with attractive views of the city.

As an aside, I have loved seeing all of the shiny, attractive chestnuts that fall fresh from the trees in October and the park in Valladolid had plenty...gotta be careful not to roll your foot on one.

We arrived by bus at 2:00pm in windy Medina de Rioseco and walked over to the albergue located in a monastery. A Korean man was sitting near the door and had already contacted the person who checks pilgrims in, and he arrived a few minutes later. A nice pleasant place with a full kitchen, twelve beds, and four bathrooms w/showers.

No one else showed up, so we three ate together, each with our own items from the nearby grocery store. Our Korean bunkmate, an Electrical engineer, spoke a little English so we were able to enjoy some conversation. He is walking in the opposite direction and will end in Madrid. He has been in Spain for over 40 days, connecting various paths of the more obscure Caminos. He started his Caminos in 2013 and has logged over 13,000.kilometers. He showed us his tracks all over Spain.


Pictures from the Sculpture museum.

The above photo is a display showing the backsides of many of the wood carvings we saw. The fronts have the beautiful and often colorful polychrome finishes.
Unfortunately the internet is slow here and I am unable to load a few more pictures. They are worth viewing in full size and expanding further for detail.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I remember all of your pictures of beautiful desserts along the Madrid, or are these all from a sugarfest in Valladolid?

All of these three are in Valladolid along with most of the others with only a few in Valencia and Leon.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 11
We left the albergue in Medina early and the sun appeared, adding a bit of warmth to a somewhat chilly morning. We passed a few interesting looking large churches, but none were open, so I took a few pictures and moved on.
It was quite windy, but thankfully it was mostly against our backs. We walked along a beautiful canal for over five miles before we left it to continue on a flat path with patches of dead sunflowers waiting to be harvested. I have never seen them in full bloom unfortunately on any of my Caminos. Summer would be the time, but it's too hot for me.

We eventually checked into a tiny albergue we had seen on Gronze in the small village of Tamariz de Campos. It has only three beds and no kitchen, but we picked up the keys at the bar across the street and they serve the only food in town, so we arranged to have dinner there at 8:00pm. We were the only customers eating a delicious stew of chicken, rice, butternut squash, carrots, potatoes and peas; home-made by the owner's wife. They knew some English and asked if we liked the walk along the canal and we said it was great. They then mentioned that a number of pilgrims over the past weeks who stayed said the mosquitos on the canal were awful. We had none and assume the winds we had today must have kept them away. I'll take dealing with wind against my back any day over dealing with mozzies!

 

[nycwalking]

Day 11
We left the albergue in Medina early and the sun appeared, adding a bit of warmth to a somewhat chilly morning. We passed a few interesting looking large churches, but none were open, so I took a few pictures and moved on.
It was quite windy, but thankfully it was mostly against our backs. We walked along a beautiful canal for over five miles before we left it to continue on a flat path with patches of dead sunflowers waiting to be harvested. I have never seen them in full bloom unfortunately on any of my Caminos.

We eventually checked into a tiny albergue we had seen on Gronze in the small village of Tamariz de Campos. It has only three beds and no kitchen, but we picked up the keys at the bar across the street and they serve the only food in town, so we arranged to have dinner there at 8:00pm. We were the only customers eating a delicious stew of chicken, rice, butternut squash, carrots, potatoes and peas; home-made by the owner's wife. They knew some English and asked if we liked the walk along the canal and we said it was great. They then mentioned that a number of pilgrims over the past weeks who stayed said the mosquitos on the canal were awful. We had none and assume the winds we had today must have kept them away. I'll take dealing with wind against my back any day over dealing with mozzies!
View attachment 158699View attachment 158700
View attachment 158701

Beautiful pictures CC.

Buen camino.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 11
We left the albergue in Medina early and the sun appeared, adding a bit of warmth to a somewhat chilly morning. We passed a few interesting looking large churches, but none were open, so I took a few pictures and moved on.
It was quite windy, but thankfully it was mostly against our backs. We walked along a beautiful canal for over five miles before we left it to continue on a flat path with patches of dead sunflowers waiting to be harvested. I have never seen them in full bloom unfortunately on any of my Caminos.

We eventually checked into a tiny albergue we had seen on Gronze in the small village of Tamariz de Campos. It has only three beds and no kitchen, but we picked up the keys at the bar across the street and they serve the only food in town, so we arranged to have dinner there at 8:00pm. We were the only customers eating a delicious stew of chicken, rice, butternut squash, carrots, potatoes and peas; home-made by the owner's wife. They knew some English and asked if we liked the walk along the canal and we said it was great. They then mentioned that a number of pilgrims over the past weeks who stayed said the mosquitos on the canal were awful. We had none and assume the winds we had today must have kept them away. I'll take dealing with wind against my back any day over dealing with mozzies!
View attachment 158699View attachment 158700
View attachment 158701

It was filled with mosquitoes when we walked it, too. The most I've encountered on any Camino. You are lucky to have missed them!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It was filled with mosquitoes when we walked it, too. The most I've encountered on any Camino. You are lucky to have missed them!

I apparently was quite lucky on all of my Caminos as I have never seen one yet.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 11

I’m not quite sure why, but I’ve always thought the ruined tower in your last two photos was one of the most evocative places I have seen on any camino. I also loved the canal walk!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I have never seen them in full bloom unfortunately on any of my Caminos. Summer would be the time, but it's too hot for me.

4th July, it wasn't too hot

 

[DoughnutANZ]

It was filled with mosquitoes when we walked it, too. The most I've encountered on any Camino. You are lucky to have missed them!

I didn't notice any mosquitos

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I’m not quite sure why, but I’ve always thought the ruined tower in your last two photos was one of the most evocative places I have seen on any camino. I also loved the canal walk!

That tower really captured my attention, too, and I took several pictures as I walked by as the angle kept changing, revealing more. The birds loved it, as well; they had a whole "community" living in nests in those open windows.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I have never seen [sunflowers] in full bloom unfortunately on any of my Caminos.

I've had somewhat better luck.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/attachments/effects-01-jpeg.112615/

 

[David Tallan]

I didn't notice any mosquitos

Lucky you!

 

[David Tallan]

4th July, it wasn't too hot
View attachment 158703

When we walked by there were just a few showing their faces.

 

[DTCamino]

I didn't notice any mosquitos

They were after me a few miles after leaving the canal, but ironically no issues walking along side of it. The bites I got didn’t bother me much while I was in Spain, they seem to be more of an issue now. (Maybe more time to scratch at them home…)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I've had somewhat better luck.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/attachments/effects-01-jpeg.112615/

One lone sunflower in the front and a whole field of them in the far distance.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Derek Taylor, I do not know how I had missed your "Live on the Camino" thread, but I woke up early and found it. I love your photos and commentary. I have spent some time catching up as far as Tamariz de Campos where I spent the night.

 

[jungleboy]

That tower really captured my attention, too, and I took several pictures as I walked by as the angle kept changing, revealing more. The birds loved it, as well; they had a whole "community" living in nests in those open windows.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

View attachment 158755

Awww, perfect! Did you climb the tower to get that great picture?

 

[DTCamino]

@Derek Taylor, I do not know how I had missed your "Live on the Camino" thread, but I woke up early and found it. I love your photos and commentary. I have spent some time catching up as far as Tamariz de Campos where I spent the night.

Thanks! I’ve been enjoying yours as well. I find it interesting to see the things in others posts (that I missed) and will try to see the next time. Be sure and bring/buy food to bring to Santervás as there is nothing there. There is a “unmarked” bar in Santervas if you need an adult beverage about 30 yards to the left of the albergue.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We are in our hotel room after walking in the wind and rain today. We realized there was nothing all day tomorrow between here and Servantas so after we cleaned up and did a bit of laundry, my son went out to one of the local grocery stores and stocked up for tomorrow.
You have a good memory, and I think you must know some Spanish.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 12
After two full weeks of dry weather, minus one hour of a spit of rain to tease, this morning we left the albergue in Tamariz with ominous clouds and an hour later wind and rain became our enemies for the next 3+ hours.

Before we left, Ivan, who has managed the tiny albergue and the bar across the street for four years, made us a yummy breakfast of scrambled eggs, onion, meat and tomato slices from his garden. He told us we were his last pilgrims as he has trained a new couple to take over the responsibilities of serving this small community of 65 people and the pilgrims who pass through. Ivan speaks some English and is a kind soul and we enjoyed chatting with him. I saw a cute mural across from the bar of two dogs. The story is that a pilgrim came through with no money, but offered to do a mural instead of paying for a bed as he was an artist. Ivan's dog is one in the mural, so I took a picture of him and his dog...so cute!

We arrived in Villalon de Campos a bit chilled and bedraggled. It was nice to have a hotel room to hand wash a bit of laundry and our dirty shoes that swam in puddles today, and dry out our rain gear. We didn't want to wait until 8:30pm to eat so a trip to the grocery store provided enough food for tonight and will last for tomorrow.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I‘m sorry to hear Ivan and Alex are moving on! Tamariz is a humble place, but their warm hospitality and care for pilgrims made it a memorable experience for me.

Chrissy, you might want to check on the Albergue at Santervas. The hospitaleros in charge when I was there in May provided a wonderful dinner and breakfast.

Hope the weather improves for you!

 

[David Tallan]

I‘m sorry to hear Ivan and Alex are moving on! Tamariz is a humble place, but their warm hospitality and care for pilgrims made it a memorable experience for me.

Chrissy, you might want to check on the Albergue at Santervas. The hospitaleros in charge when I was there in May provided a wonderful dinner and breakfast.

Hope the weather improves for you!

I remember the same from when I was there in June. We stocked up with food before heading out to Santervás because we read there was bithing there: no restaurant, bar or shop. But when we got there the hospitaleros shared their comida and cena with us and laid out a nice breakfast.

As well, the albergue shares the building with the Ponce de Leon Museum which we visited.