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In January the tourist office in Ponferrada told me that the Camino Invierno is "closed" in the winter, probably meaning that the albergues are closed. They had a nice brochure and two books about it. The Winter Camino is probably great in the spring/summer/fall.I really hope that the Invierno take off over the next couple of years.
No way is it 'closed' in winter.In January the tourist office in Ponferrada told me that the Camino Invierno is "closed" in the winter, probably meaning that the albergues are closed. They had a nice brochure and two books about it. The Winter Camino is probably great in the spring/summer/fall.
Many, many thanks MJB for this wonderfully detailed and helpful post; if you do not mind, I have a couple of questions as I begin planning for my own experience along this Camino, commencing in about a months time.
In Las Medulas I have not found any details for where to stay 'privately', as you did with Socorro. Did you see quite a few opportunities to stay privately or do you have contact details for Socorro ?
And in Rodeiro, there are several recommendations elsewhere on this forum for Pension Carpinteiras, and just wondered if there was a specific reason that you chose to stay at Hospedaxe O Guerra.
Once again, muchas gracias !
Casa Socorro: 987 422 858Many, many thanks MJB for this wonderfully detailed and helpful post; if you do not mind, I have a couple of questions as I begin planning for my own experience along this Camino, commencing in about a months time.
In Las Medulas I have not found any details for where to stay 'privately', as you did with Socorro. Did you see quite a few opportunities to stay privately or do you have contact details for Socorro ?
And in Rodeiro, there are several recommendations elsewhere on this forum for Pension Carpinteiras, and just wondered if there was a specific reason that you chose to stay at Hospedaxe O Guerra.
Once again, muchas gracias !
Hi, gollygolly, the forum guide in the Resources section has details with walking directions and phone numbers for Socorro. There are also a couple of hotels (at least in summer) and the guide has those details as well.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...e-to-the-camino-de-invierno-2016-edition.442/
I've stayed twice at O Guerra in Rodeiro. It's centrally located and the couple running it are very nice. Their restaurant is decent, too. Carpinteiras is a bit out of the way, nothing major, just about 500 m up the street. I think either one is fine.
Hope you enjoy the Invierno, let us know how it goes. Buen camino, Laurie
Casa Socorro: 987 422 858
Both places in Rodeiro are excellent. One is at the top of the hill, though!
As others have said on here, you really will enjoy the Invierno.Bless you for posting the contact number for Socorro - I had just looked it up following reading the post from Laurie - and so appreciate your effort and time. Am feeling my excitement increasing at this upcoming Camino, which seems to have a wonderfully distinct 'feel' from what I have read !!
Hi, Susan!Thanks for this updated information! I am currently on the Frances in Sahagun, and have been planning on turning left at Ponferrada and getting on the Invierno. I have Laurie's excellent pdf and the Wise Pilgrim app for the Invierno. I don't mind walking alone and understand that this route isn't as well marked as the France's--but I don't have a GPS on my phone and after reading this post am a bit concerned that I'll be lost frequently in the middle of nowhere! Any thoughts on whether I'll be well enough equipped to figure out my route with just the available signage and PDF? Thanks, Susan
The ascent to Carpinteiras in Rodeiro isn't steep at all. It's just a street with a bit of inclineBless you for posting the contact number for Socorro - I had just looked it up following reading the post from Laurie - and so appreciate your effort and time. Am feeling my excitement increasing at this upcoming Camino, which seems to have a wonderfully distinct 'feel' from what I have read !!
The route is extremely well marked, especially once you cross into Galicia over the bridge from Puente de Domingo Flórez. The asociación have been round putting up lots of fantastic granite markers.Hi, Susan!
Invierno isn't badly marked at all just less than Frances. I contributed in forum's guide book and went through it three times. It's all you need. You'll be fine
Unless there are festivals coming up, there should be absolutely no problem with lodging. You should call Asun the day before if you are going to stay in her home in A Rua, just to give her a heads up.Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.
I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.
One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!
Laurie said it all about accommodation.Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.
I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.
One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!
Laurie said it all about accommodation.
Yes I was reffering to .pdf file in resources section.
Please give my regards to Asun (if you'll stay there), just mention Slovenian peregrino from 2014 with bedbugs (chinches), she'll understand
Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.
I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.
One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!
Oh, come on, Laurie, now you blew my cover.Sabbott, you will soon learn that Kinky is somewhat of a rock star along the Invierno. When you tell people you know him, faces light up (maybe it's the memory of those long beer-fueled conversations I heard about).
It's perfectly true what Laurie says! I mentioned KinkyOne in places as far apart as Sobradelo, A Rúa, A Pobra do Brollón, and they ALL recalled him!Oh, come on, Laurie, now you blew my cover.
Town by town notes on the Camino de Invierno, April 2016
Ponferrada
The Albergue Guiana was great. Open till midngiht. It was nice to have time for both Mass and dinner before going back to the albergue.
Villavieja
The paved road and the path through the chestnut trees both go to the entrance of the Catillo de Cornatel. The Castle is open Friday-Sunday, 11:00-2:30, 4:00-9:00, starting in March. Pilgrims walking their first day out on a day the Castle is closed may want to take the very short road detour instead of the full climb to Villavieja and the Castle to save time to visit the Orellan lookout or otherwise explore Las Medulas.
Borrenes
The store has definitely gone out of business. Casa Marisol made me a crude but ample bocadillo de chorizo and a cafe solo for 3.60 euros.
Las Medulas
The hotel was closed for the season. Socorro who rents rooms found me as I walked around town, so I stayed with her. A nice clean room and friendly breakfast for 20 euros, although I could not make the connection to her wifi.
The descent through the forest to Puente de Domingo Flores was very beautiful: spring flowers, inspiring views in every direction.
Puente de Domingo Flórez
The left turn to leave town is at the Dia supermarket.
O Barco
...is a beautiful town. It’s hard to believe it has only 10,000 people. It would be shame to skip it to rack up kms. I had a good stay at the Hostal Mayo (22 euro single), and a very good dinner across the river (first pedestrian bridge) at the Asador Viloira.
The plethora of alternatives for leaving town are a little confusing. I just walked out the main street (one block towards the river below my hotel and the Pension do Lar), the Av. Conde Fenosa (aka N-536).
A Rua
I had a great lunch (a one choice menu, but delicious) at the Meson O Toño (center of town near the Bar Pepa and Eroski supermarket.
It was a treat to meet Asun, who is head of the Asociación Amigos do Camiño de Santiago por Valdeorras. As the English-language guide notes, she is a pleasure to talk to and full of information.
Leaving town, if you come to the Maderas La Cigara lumber yard, you have gone 150m beyond the spot to cut underneath the highway and will need to double back. Or better still, once you see Maderas La Cigara on the horizon, be on the lookout for the turn and tunnel.
Alvaredos
In the rain it may be easiest to stay on the LU-933 rather than climbing to the village. I got utterly soaked on the pretty, but overgrown, grassy path out of the village, and it was a long, mushy walk thereafter. (I did get to see a surgically clean, modern winery being built on the first floor of one of the big, beautiful houses in Alvaredos. It is striking how development and decrepitude can sit side-by-side in rural villages in Galicia.)
Montefurado
The church was open on Saturday for preparing the altar for mass and there is still a Sunday mass. It was a surprise as it looked decrepit as I climbed up the hill.
The waymarked and placarded (Camino Sur) path out of Montefurado is badly, badly overgrown with foot-high grasses and wild flowers. I was really soaked after that. I think by going right after the church rather than going left and following the marked trail, you could reach the paved road to Hermidón.
Bendilló-Quiroga
To avoid the fussiness I spent about 200m along the highway to enter Sequeiros directly. I stayed on the LU-933 until just before the Castle (It’s an easy crossing of the N-120.) and then went straight downhill toward Quiroga rather than doing the (very wet!) loop back across the creek. This must have been the route at some time, because there are arrows into town. There are several big ruina montium boreholes (placarded) on the right as you head toward Quiroga.
Quiroga
The Quiroga Albergue folks were very helpful: they showed me to the laundry and the boiler room they use in lieu of a dryer, so I was able to wash and dry my clothes, and more importantly to dry my shoes.
I had an excellent dinner (fabada and homemade paella) at the bar A Taverna, and lovely, fresh pastries for breakfast from the Panaderia Marisa, opposite the albergue, which opens at 8:00 am.
Quiroga-Barxa de Lor
Although it rained a lot both this day and the previous one, the logging roads through the high hills were all well maintained and not hard to pass through.
A small correction to the English-anguage guide: the crossing of the N-120 to the derelict nightclub before Noceda is at grade, not under the highway.
A Pobra to Monforte
After a Pobra, the asphalt runs out and the the track was frequently muddy and flooded. I was afraid of getting bogged down in the mud as it got darker and doubled back to take the two-lane, pretty much uninhabited LU provincial road toward Cereixa. When it ended, instead of going right to A Cereixa,I took a left and walked for about 800m on the Avenida de Lugo and then met the LU-933 which I took into Monforte. I got there by 8:30 pm.
Monforte
I’ve been to Monforte a couple times before on my bike, and enjoyed eating at the Parador and O Grello on those trips. This time I had an equally good meal at the Restaurant Polar, right in the center of town. (About 22 euros. Every course was good, as were the baked goods for breakfast the next morning. It looks like a typical Spanish bar with a comedor, but the quality was very high.
I overslept and decided to stay for the 11:00 am mass at the chapel of the Colegio de los Escolapios. (I’ve never been able to make the tours.) A good experience, followed by shopping at the Sunday farmers market and flea market in the park next door.
Sadly, the bar as you leave town has given up the ghost.
Castrotañe-A Barxa
Staying on the LU-P-4112 was an absolute must in rainy April. (The Camino into Castrontañe is an overgrown streambed and was in full-flood.)
San Pelayo
The work on the episcopal palace attached to the Church of San Pelayo in Diamondi is now finished. The church was more than worth the short detour.
After the short concrete stretch, the next 500m of the Codos de Belesar are pure muck in spring rain. The Roman road section is better, but a little slippery in the rain.
Chantada
I arrived at 9:30 pm, but had good (and huge) dinner at the Bar Lucas and a good sleep at the Hotel Mogay.
Chantada-Rodeiro
There are a series of beautiful horreos as you leave Centulle.
Unfortunately, in April the “service road” after Centulle has several long stretches of pure mud pit and flooded roadway. The carretera is a real closed access road, 5-15 meters below the camino and beyond a fence, so it’s not really an alternative. Hopping onto fences and waterlogged fields was not much better. (I got hooked on barbed wire for the first time since my first Camino in 2004.) 50 or so cows on the road and more rain compounded the problems.
At Penasillás, I changed shoes and detoured by the alternative route laid out in the Valdeorras Amigos guidebook. Pretty, quiet, dry. Good views, although it sounds like not as good as on the direct climb. This route rises to about 775 m, descends and then ascends further to 890 meters at the Alto de Faro.
Rodeiro
I had good meal and a perfectly clean, perfectly heated room (so I could dry some critical laundry) at the restaurant and Hospedaxe O Guerra.
Rodeiro-Lalin
It poured rain the whole time, and based on fatigue and the recommendation of the restaurant owner in Rondeiro I walked the carretera service road. One of the bars on the way specializes in making honey, which made a nice change from the usual cafe stop.
I got lost trying to find the church in Lalín de Arriba and so made my way into town five or ten blocks off course. I had a nice lunch of callos and pulpo á feira at Restaurant San Martin II (opposite the Sergas clinic) and a nice pastry at a bakery-bar called Dulces Encantados (diagonally across the street from the pig monument, just below the main church).
Joining the Sanabres
From Silleda on (specifically from one block after the Nudesa plant) all the dirt roads are all reinforced with gravel and can stand up to wet weather. There were also some pilgrims about.
In Silleda I stayed in the Bar Toxa’s apartment: clean, modern, 15 euros.
The weather cleared the next day and I had the sort of day I had hoped for all along.
The Pasteleria Dulce Deza as you enter Bandeira is a good morning stop for coffee and a pastry for those who are leaving Lalin or Silleda.
Ponte Ulla
I tried the fancy Restaurant Villa Verde in Ponte Ulla. A beautiful first course of home-smoked salmon over fresh tomatoes. Second course was Roballo a Gallega. The dessert was an interesting walnut and banana torta (Torta de Nueces y Platanos.) About 42 euros with coffee and a couple of glasses of local Albariño.
For climbing to the Pensión O Cruzeiro da Ulla, note that it is up the long stairway that lies between the Camino (steep, rocky walk) and the local highway where the Dia supermarket is. The long stairway climbs up to the N-525. The pension was newish, clean and only 20 euros for a single.
Should be part of next batch!Corrections have been duly noted. Great additions, too.
So, who's next? I keep thinking that this year will be the one that starts things really moving!
Hola, Julio!Thank you Amigo del Camino, I will use your side notes, I should be walking this last part of my overall Camino 2016 last week of June/early July 2016; Every single note helps..
Julio
Hello Amigo del Camino, yes I remember this short conversation under the tree on my path to Chinchilla, where I totally messed up! Should have red the guide...Hola, Julio!
Remember we talked for a while a few kilometers before Chinchilla de M.A. last year on the Levante? I was sitting under the tree...
What are your approx.dates arriving in SdC (or Fisterra/Muxia) this year? I'm doing Bayona/CF/Salvador/Primitivo/Finisterre combo, starting on Wednesday.
Anyway, Ultreia!
Lalín is a good place to stay.
There's a lovely river walk if you start from there.
Wow, 19 days??? Waaay too fast for meI did it during 19 days in 2014, starting from Vitoria. It is an extremely personal Camino. If you can, in the Primitivo choose the Hospitales variant, I opted for this option (this was on my 2014-07-02 Etapa Tineo - Berducedo), you will really feel like a middle age Pilgrim.
This year I should reach Santiago practically for my return flight on the 5 July 2016, I have 1150 km to walk in 30 days maximum...
All the best
Julio Santiago (my real name, not a nick for this Santiago forum!)
The Hotel El Palacio in Lalín is pilgrim-friendly, very central, and reasonably priced. Last year I stayed in the Hostal Las Palmeras: nice bar and restaurant, but the rooms are somewhat run-down and basic.Thansk once again Charrito.
Our actual start will be from the Ctahedral in Ponferrada, and I'm contemplating what this specific days stage could be ; Rodeiro to Lalin or Rodeiro to the Albergue A Laxe or Rodeiro to a few kms beyond.
Come on, Charrito..., two hours left to my shuttle transport to Venice, hungry like a wolf and you're posting this. That's not fair!As Laurie (peregrina200) says, it may come as a bit of a shock to the system when you get to A Laxe and suddenly see more pilgrims (as the Sanabrés joins up there) after quite a few days on your own!
Lalín is also good for you foodies! Try the cocido gallego (always available in Casa Mouriño, on the other side of the road from Hotel El Palacio). Not if you're planning on walking anywhere afterwards, though!
And the second question is whether Lalin, which is just a few kms before the joining of the Camino Sanabrés and the Camino Invierno, worth seeing and therefore worth an overnight stay ?
If my schedule were not tight I would have stayed to visit the ethnographic museum. The architecture is not exciting (If you look at the CRTVG webcam you will get a feeling for its appearance: mostly built up in the last 40 years.), but it's a big town with a variety of restaurants and bars. The riverwalk is a nice, parklike transition out of town.
If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.
Perfect place to stop for a coffee (or beer!) if you've stayed overnight in Bandeira. Andrea and Cristina are great hosts, and I might well stop there this time instead of in the reasonably-priced and spotless Hostal Conde Rey in Bandeira.Since we're migrating over to the Sanabres, I think a great place to stay during those last few days after the Invierno ends would be Casa Leiras. It's owned by an Italian couple with a Camino history,and it it in a little hamlet that is peaceful and beautiful. It's a little after Bandeira and I wish I had known about it the last time I walked through (but I had stayed in Bandeira, about 5 kms earlier). Last year when I walked the Invierno, I walked with a couple of local women out for their morning walk for a few kms, and they told me about how great this place was (they always stopped there for a coffee in the middle of their walk). http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-casa-leiras-1866
[QUOTE="If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.
I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....Laurie said it all about accommodation.
Yes I was reffering to .pdf file in resources section.
Please give my regards to Asun (if you'll stay there), just mention Slovenian peregrino from 2014 with bedbugs (chinches), she'll understand
KinkyOne is known in every albergue and bar in Spain!I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....
Oh, how nice!!! Give her my kindest regards, would you, please. And tell her I was so much better after her treatment that last year I walked Levante/Sanabres/Muxia combo and that I'm currently in Vitoria-Gasteiz walking Bayona/Salvador/Primitivo/Finisterre.I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....
Congratulations! I hope you put doen two pilgrims on the credencial!Congrats on grandbaby Ksam! Glad you were able to walk and be a good grandma at the same time. Would love to hear your reactions when you have time, but of course grandbabies take precedence..
Many thanks for the recommendation of Casa Leiras. Some more details of this albergue can be seen here :
http://www.gronze.com/galicia/pontevedra/dornelas/albergue-casa-leiras-1866
though will decide closer to the time whether we stop at Casa Leiras or continue along and up to the albergue at Outeiro. From the walk that we did in 2014, I remember stocking up with food at the Dia supermarket Ponte Ulla and rushing the last few kms to get to the albergue so as to get the ice-cream into the fridge. Arrived at the albergue and discovered that it had no fridge, nor very much in the way of anything for those who wanted to prepare their own food for eating.
Oh, Charrito, long time no see indeedLong time no speak, peregrina2000. I've been so busy recently that I haven't had time to post anything more about my second Invierno or my first Primitivo.
If you intend to update the Invierno guide, I'd be quite happy to find time to look through it again and let you have any comments.
Greetings from Salamanca!
Hey, gollygolly
I was just going through some old Invierno posts to get ready for a guide update and came across your pre-Invierno questions. .
Laurie, I’ve got the invierno in my sights for 2017 - with some bits of VdlP and maybe Madrid (an a la carte pilgrim)
Your notes will be invaluable. Many thanks for all your hard work.
Thank so much for your extraordinarily prompt reply ! I know that I will now be choosing the O Guerra in Rodeiro !!
Same here. And Carpinteiras also has a wonderful uphill position, beautiful sunset and watching planes landing at Santiago airport at night on the balcony. One of the best price/value deals ever on my Caminos!O Guerra was closed when I was there. It was Sunday. I don't know if it is always closed Sundays. Carpintiera is fine. It has a restaurant.
Yes, very well indeed, K1. As are you, I hope. If numbers are still ridiculously low I'll go for the Invierno again!Oh, Charrito, long time no see indeed
Hope you're OK and already planning your next Camino. Take care!
K1
Hey, gollygolly
I was just going through some old Invierno posts to get ready for a guide update and came across your pre-Invierno questions. Just wondering if you did walk it the Invierno and what your experience was like (and if you've posted that elsewhere, I'm sorry to repeat the question, just point me in the right direction).
I'm still amazed at how small the Invierno numbers are, so much for my brazen predictions..
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