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LIVE from the Camino Invierno

Fred Gaudet

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
1341
After completing the Camino Olvidado, spent two nights in Ponferrada, leaving on a Sunday morning. In Toral de Merayo cafe and bakery open a little after nine.

Arrived at Castillo de Cornatel a little after 2pm and was closed to visitors, reopening at 4pm. Maybe it was the look on my face but the young ladies opened the door for me to enter. There was no cost for peregrinos. Had the whole castle to myself and got a stamp upon leaving.

Took the alternate route out of Borrenes. The route on the Wise Pilgrim Camino de Invierno app was much easier to follow than the track on Wikiloc. There were two arrows just before La Chana giving a slight shortcut across a field joining back with the route a short time latter. By watching the red track whenever roads met, it was easy to follow. If I went the wrong way within 100’ I knew to make a correction.

The Mirador de Orellán was fabulous. The Galerias opened at 11 and I was there about a minute before.

Plenty of rooms available at Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez.

In O Barco stayed at Hostal Mayo. Had to call for someone to open and check me in. Since I was on the green track, continued on it in the morning. It actually was the alternate route to the alberque. The river route was in red. At Iglesias de San Tirso, the mojón points to the right. I kept going straight ahead meeting up with alberque path in Arcos and the river route at the bridge in Valencia do Sil.

Stopped at the new tourist office in A Rúa. They were helpful with train times. Checked into Hostal Niza, which is showing its age. Think I was the only one there, at least on my floor with its shared bathroom. Had a menú del día then walked to Montefurado. Train for A Rúa was at 6:24, costing 2.20 euros. Back in A Rúa in 9 or 10 minutes.

Next morning train left at 7:09. Waited for some daylight before leaving train station/hut. Water in Montefurado and in Bendillo. At N-120 the mojón points up a steep hill. Walking down the highway looked way to dangerous but there are two yellow arrows pointing across the highway to an old road, now in low grass that can be followed into Soldón.

Before Quiroga in Caspedro took the detour to the the Pilgrim Hospital. Easy to follow red detour route to Carballedo to the Conxunto de San Salvador de O Hospital. The pilgrim hospital, from the 13th century, has not been there for a long time probably for four or five centuries. Now there is a church, and some house from the mid-1800s, including one of a French knight who came to help fight the Moors. The immediate way back is wrong, or at least winds up at the ends of roads—I did cut thru some fields. One should go back the same way as coming—at the first road to the right, turn downhill and will join up with the detour track.

Stayed at Hostal Dimar, which was inexpensive but nice and clean. Wanted to stay at Hostal Quiper but it was booked. There are 8 peregrinos walking with a support van who had stayed there last night. Today rounding a corner in Barxa do Lor, the 8 peregrinos were there with the support van having lunch. They almost stopped me to join them, which I did.

Just before Castroncelos I called for a ride to the Casa Rural in Salcedo. I have a room. The other peregrinos have part of a house. For me, supper at 8.
 
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After completing the Camino Olvidado, spent two nights in Ponferrada, leaving on a Sunday morning. In Toral de Merayo cafe and bakery open a little after nine.

Arrived at Castillo de Cornatel a little after 2pm and was closed to visitors, reopening at 4pm. Maybe it was the look on my face but the young ladies opened the door for me to enter. There was no cost for peregrinos. Had the whole castle to myself and got a stamp upon leaving.

Took the alternate route out of Borrenes. The route on the Wise Pilgrim Camino de Invierno app was much easier to follow than the track on Wikiloc. There were two arrows just before La Chana giving a slight shortcut across a field joining back with the route a short time latter. By watching the red track whenever roads met, it was easy to follow. If I went the wrong way within 100’ I knew to make a correction.

The Mirador de Orellán was fabulous. The Galerias opened at 11 and I was there about a minute before.

Plenty of rooms available at Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez.

In O Barco stayed at Hostal Mayo. Had to call for someone to open and check me in. Since I was on the green track, continued on it in the morning. It actually was the alternate route to the alberque. The river route was in red. At Iglesias de San Tirso, the mojón points to the right. I kept going straight ahead meeting up with alberque path in Arcos and the river route at the bridge in Valencia do Sil.

Stopped at the new tourist office in A Rúa. They were helpful with train times. Checked into Hostal Niza, which is showing its age. Think I was the only one there, at least on my floor with its shared bathroom. Had a menú del día then walked to Montefurado. Train for A Rúa was at 6:24, costing 2.20 euros. Back in A Rúa in 9 or 10 minutes.

Next morning train left at 7:09. Waited for some daylight before leaving train station/hut. Water in Montefurado and in Bendillo. At N-120 the mojón points up a steep hill. Walking down the highway looked way to dangerous but there are two yellow arrows pointing across the highway to an old road, now in low grass that can be followed into Soldón.

Before Quiroga in Caspedro took the detour to the the Pilgrim Hospital. Easy to follow red detour route to Carballedo to the Conxunto de San Salvador de O Hospital. The pilgrim hospital, from the 13th century, has not been there for a long time probably for four or five centuries. Now there is a church, and some house from the mid-1800s, including one of a French knight who came to help fight the Moors. The immediate way back is wrong, or at least winds up at the ends of roads—I did cut thru some fields. One should go back the same way as coming—at the first road to the right, turn downhill and will join up with the detour track.

Stayed at Hostal Dimar, which was inexpensive but nice and clean. Wanted to stay at Hostal Quiper but it was booked. There are 8 peregrinos walking with a support van who had stayed there last night. Today rounding a corner in Barxa do Lor, the 8 peregrinos were there with the support van having lunch. They almost stopped me to join them, which I did.

Just before Castroncelos I called for a ride to the Casa Rural in Salcedo. I have a room. The other peregrinos have part of a house. For me, supper at 8.
Thanks for this. Looking forward to more since I am thinking of going to Monforte de Lemos and walking from there to Santiago.
Did you book every night ahead?
Weather?
 
Usually book ahead usually three or more days since there seem to be more peregrinos than I’ve seen since leaving Bilbao. I either call directly or will use booking.com if it’s easier. However many times booking.com doesn’t have anything in the place I plan to stay. Sometimes the price may be the same, or is less expensive going to Hostal, etc. directly.

Weather has been good, only cloudy. However next few days rain is expected.
 
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The Mirador de Orellán was fabulous. The Galerias opened at 11 and I was there about a minute before.

Plenty of rooms available at Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez.
Great updates, thanks so much!

Based on how you describe your trip to Las Médulas, I am thinking that you did not go down into town but rather continued on from the Mirador de Orellán to connect with the camino and proceed on to Puente Domingo Flórez.

Is that right? If so, is there an obvious and easy way to go from mirador back to the camino without descending into the town of Las Médulas?

Have you seen @El Cascayal’s notice about the new albergue in Chantada? You could provide the advance scout report. :)

Buen camino! Laurie
 
The alternative goes down to Las Médulas which is the way I went. The route was closed at La Cuevona because of potential rocks falling but there is a well used path just before.

There may be a road walk to join back to the Camino bypassing Las Médulas but it doesn’t plook any shorter since it winds around quite a bit.
 
Great updates, thanks so much!

Based on how you describe your trip to Las Médulas, I am thinking that you did not go down into town but rather continued on from the Mirador de Orellán to connect with the camino and proceed on to Puente Domingo Flórez.

Is that right? If so, is there an obvious and easy way to go from mirador back to the camino without descending into the town of Las Médulas?

Have you seen @El Cascayal’s notice about the new albergue in Chantada? You could provide the advance scout report. :)

Buen camino! Laurie
From the mirador you can descend down into the national park and follow the path leaving you just beyond the village to continue on the camino. The detour from Borrenes to the mirador adds just a few km overall and is well worth it!
 
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Before Quiroga in Caspedro took the detour to the the Pilgrim Hospital. Easy to follow red detour route to Carballedo to the Conxunto de San Salvador de O Hospital. The pilgrim hospital, from the 13th century, has not been there for a long time probably for four or five centuries. Now there is a church, and some house from the mid-1800s, including one of a French knight who came to help fight the Moors.
I missed it because the day I went by there was an approaching rainstorm that I was racing (and tied with on the end - it hit as I was on the edge of town). So I'm happy to read that I didn't miss much.

There are 8 peregrinos walking with a support van
😲 Wow. Times really are changing on the Invierno.

If so, is there an obvious and easy way to go from mirador back to the camino without descending into the town of Las Médulas?
Yes. Just stay on the road as it goes up the slope from the Mirador de Orellan (blue flag on map below). It goes south and east around the back of the slope and then swings west to intersect the camino a half a km or so after the Mirador de Pedrices (green flag on map below).

Here's the big picture, with a track in purple from Borrenes to the camino intersection after Las Medulas. The camino proper is the turquoise line. It's a bit over 11km in total but with 5km or so of a significant climb:
20211002_134000.jpg 20211002_135049.jpg

And a close-up showing the two miradors:
20211002_134408.jpg
 
Here's the big picture, with a track in purple from Borrenes to the camino intersection after Las Medulas.
There may be a road walk to join back to the Camino bypassing Las Médulas but it doesn’t plook any shorter since it winds around quite a bit.

Putting these comments and VN’s map together with my experience in Las Médulas, I think @Fred Gaudet is right that in the end going down into the village from the MIrador de Orellán is not really any longer than weaving around up on top. Staying “up on the top” would save you the descent from the mirador, soon thereafter followed by the ascent back up from town. But that is a lovely chestnut forest walk, and not too steep or exhausting. So if you plan not to spend the night in Las Médulas, you should consider the Borrenes alternative direct to the mirador and then take one of the two options to continue on the camino at the point VN’s map shows the purple line intersecting.

On one of my stays in Las Médulas, I remember that @LTfit and another peregrino and I inadvertently took that longer route from town up to the mirador, it weaves around out in an open field and was not anything special.

The detour from Borrenes to the mirador adds just a few km overall and is well worth it!
Totally agree with @Flog on this. But one thing to keep in mind is that the view from the mirador is exceptional in mid-late afternoon because of the sun, so those who are fast walkers might prefer to walk straight into town, shower and eat, and then head up to the mirador for the views.
 
But one thing to keep in mind is that the view from the mirador is exceptional in mid-late afternoon because of the sun, so those who are fast walkers might prefer to walk straight into town, shower and eat, and then head up to the mirador for the view
Not bad at 8:30 on a sunny morning too..
 

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Hola Fred,
Thank you! I so appreciate this information.
I am planning to take the alternate from Borrenes vía La Chana to Orellan to visit El Mirador on first stage and overnighting in Orellan. I had mapped it out by Google maps, that same route. Does it cross a stream through woods right before Orellan, or are these shadows on the map? I will check out Wise Pilgrim app, was unaware of alternatives on this app.
Do you know if Casa Pacita is open in Barxa de Lor? Thanks 😊 and Buen Camino de Invierno,
Aymarah
Aymarah
 
I am planning to take the alternate from Borrenes vía La Chana to Orellan to visit El Mirador on first stage and overnighting in Orellan.
Have you seen this thread, @El Cascayal? It also has the tracks. I walked this alternative several years ago and definitely was glad to have the GPS because there were several places where things were confusing.

And you probably know this, but the mirador is about 2 km beyond the village of Orellán. So if you visit the mirador first, you are probably equidistant from the village of Orellán (backtracking) and the village of Las Médulas (taking the path down to the village).

I heard some rumbling that Casa Pacita was going to reopen, but the phone rings without an answer so I assume it hasn’t happened yet.
 
Is that right? If so, is there an obvious and easy way to go from mirador back to the camino without descending into the town of Las Médulas?
Hi Laurie.
Yes, If possible
In yellow, the official route of the Camino de Invierno.
In orange, the Wikiloc track of amancio_iglesias, that coincides from Borrenes to the Mirador de Orellan with the magenta path.
In magenta, the route that does not descend to Las Médulas and continues to the Mirador de Pedrices to later link with the official route and begin to descend towards Puente de Domingo Flórez.

 
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And you probably know this, but the mirador is about 2 km beyond the village of Orellán. So if you visit the mirador first, you are probably equidistant from the village of Orellán (backtracking) and the village of Las Médulas (taking the path down to the village).
If I were staying at Orellan, I'd probably choise to continue on to Puente de Domingo Flores via the Mirador de Pedrices without dropping down to tbe village - using the track I posted (@FreeCat's is the same). But I've already spent the better part of a day there. If you haven't it's worth a short day, to explore the guts of the Roman mine, and the museum.
 
Next morning train left at 7:09. Waited for some daylight before leaving train station/hut. Water in Montefurado and in Bendillo. At N-120 the mojón points up a steep hill. Walking down the highway looked way to dangerous but there are two yellow arrows pointing across the highway to an old road, now in low grass that can be followed into Soldón.

Thank you for posting an account of your experience on the Invierno @Fred Gaudet !

Good to hear that the original route across the road into Soldón is still marked and passable. It was the route recorded in the forum Invierno guide which I had when I walked in June 2019. When I reached the bottom of the hill at the N-120, I looked at the new mojón pointing up the steep hill and decided to take the original route :) Happy I did - the arrows crossing the road looked faded and the path was already looking a bit overgrown - I wondered how long it would remain marked and passable.
 
In Monforte stayed at the MON come y sueña. Doesn’t serve meals since the pandemic but did have breakfast.

At Piñeiro, church bells rang at 10:45 and mass at 11 that Sunday morning.

Stayed at Torre Vilariño. Big room and the best meal I’ve had on the Invierno. Breakfast available early for peregrinos or at 9:00 for those without far to go.

In Chantada the alberque is open. It’s on the Camino n Rúa do Comerico just before #23. One sign says A Pousa Do Asma and on the door, ALBERQUE with phone number for reservations 621 28 81 74.

Staying at Hotel Magay. At least three other peregrinos also in the hotel.
 
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Rúa do Comercio becomes Calle Lenando Rodríquez about a block before the alberque. It’s on the left side so the street when heading north and just before Praza de Sta. Ana.
 
Talked the three other peregrinos into taking a taxi with me to Penasillas. I didn’t want to go the 26 kilometers because of the former ankle problem. Taxi cost 10 euros.

Slight rain, then fog then drizzle rain at Alto do Faro. Could hardly see the ermita. Could hear the windmills but didn’t see until much lower.

There is a new route into Lalín,not following the green route. It stays higher and finally reaches a street that goes over the train tracks. Back on green route thru central part of city. No purple pigs—there only for special occasions—just the one pig statue.

Going thru the industrial area of Bergazos was no problem. One mojón a little hard to see since a car was parked next to it. The grass was short and a little path was there.

In Laxe stopped at Restaurant María y Jose and had the tortilla. I told Maria that I had read that it was the best tortilla om the Camino, and that I agreed. It was really good. She broke into the biggest smile and was amazed. She even offered me some tortilla to take with but but I had enough. Stop in and have a really good tortilla.

In Silleda walked to the Dulce Deza but couldn’t figure out which pastry was cream filled. Bought one anyway. And the next morning in Bandeira on the Camino on the left side of the street there is another Dulce Deza. Stopped in for a snack.

Lots of peregrinos everywhere. Not sure when, but some are leaving small stones, sometimes bigger ones, on the mojones. One, two, a dozen. Since it looks like littering I used my hicking poles to knock them off of every one I saw. Yah, maybe it did the person good to leave a stone on a mojón but some seem to be just building a higher stack. It’ll be interesting to see how fast the stones appear again.

Ponte Ulla. Bar Rios closed temporarily. The sign did say how long, but google shows it closed.

Tomorrow Santiago.

Buen Camino.
 
Lots of peregrinos everywhere.
Coming off the Sanabres?

Not sure when, but some are leaving small stones, sometimes bigger ones, on the mojones. One, two, a dozen. Since it looks like littering I used my hicking poles to knock them off of every one I saw. Yah, maybe it did the person good to leave a stone on a mojón but some seem to be just building a higher stack. It’ll be interesting to see how fast the stones appear again.
Thank you for stemming the tide..
As this way becomes more popular there will invariably be more and more stones and sentimental or instagramable rubbish left behind.
 
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