doctorherman
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances*3, Ingles, Primitivo, Finisterre, Baztan, and Portuguese
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So sorry to read about your dilemma. I can’t remember the surfaces in terms of the ratio of hard to soft, but I do remember loving the walk we did, fromHi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
Go over to Salamanca or Zamora by bus, and walk the VDLP/Sanabres from there!
Thank you Kiekie. I am in lots of pain in both heels after following the Brierley stages since early on. This Camino is totally different from the Frances and Primitive and not in a positive way in terms of terrain.
I have 1 day more in this lovely city to decide what to do.
I am in lots of pain in both heels after following the Brierley stages since early on.
I have done only the Tui-Santiago section, and thought it had the most road and cobblestone of any camino I have walked. The last day into Santiago is far less pleasant than the last day on the Camino Frances. My suggestion is to focus more on your overall purpose of a pilgrimage, and less on the pathway and the scenery.The Spanish part is very nice and much less road walking. It's worth sticking with the CP as you've probably done the worst bit in terms of comfort
If you indeed choose the second option why not get to Ponferrada and walk Camino de Invierno instead?...
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
...
I am so happy to read your post! Be kind to yourself, and enjoy every moment if you can.Thanks so much for the very positive and helpful replies. I do appreciate that there are many positives in Portugal that sweeten the cruel asphalt. Most of the people I have encountered are welcoming, the food is delicious and incredibly cheap, the flowers in gardens are beautiful, the churches that have been open are so peaceful, the huge numbers of cars from the seventies and eighties make the way like an automobile museum, the sadness in the faces of the prostitutes on their chairs along the highways do make you realise how fortunate you are...
I went to Mass at the cathedral today and felt better after meeting many pilgrims who were waiting after Mass to get their credentials. A lovely couple of Irish retirees echoed what some forum members have posted above by stating that the route from Porto is very different from the pre Porto part. So I have decided to continue from Porto tomorrow and finish the pilgrimage I started. Feet feel better today too with no stabbing heel pain.
Porto is indeed a fabulous city but staying more than a couple of days would seriously expand your waistline, so I had better get going tomorrow.
Porto is indeed a fabulous city but staying more than a couple of days would seriously expand your waistline, so I had better get going tomorrow.
I share your sentiment. My feet have not been the same since walking the CdeP in '17. It does get better after Rio in many ways.Hi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
Yes, the route from Lisbon to Porto is flat, there are a couple of small hills there but manageable without trekking boots or walking poles.Hi.
Can you advise if the Lisbon to Porto stretch is quite flat? I imagine it to be but love your reflections.
Yes, it does get easier on the feet after Porto, so cheer up! The stretch from Lisbon to Porto I also walked according to Brierley's guide, was a challenge before Coimbra. And I didn't have proper shoes as was a spontaneous Camino, so my feet hurt every day, had to use Voltaren gel, it saved me. I got trail running shoes in Porto and walked happy after that, no blisters, no pain. After Porto it would be better to take a coastal option, the wooden boarbdwalks along the beachfront are lovely, springly and easy on the feet. And towns are also beautiful there and there is less road walking. Although even before Porto I was ok with traffic and industrial zones - when you find company on the road the talking keeps your mind occupied and you stay focused on the good thingsDoes it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Agree. And well done for persevering!Now in Tui and very glad I didn't give up. The Camino from Vilarinho is totally different from the sections between Coimbra and Porto. Beautiful countryside, more pilgrims, the churches tend to be open more and most importantly, it's on a variety of trails and not 90% concrete. Crossing the bridge 1km after Vilorinho was like entering a different world and being on a completely different Camino. I hope the Camino pre Vilharinho evolves and gmoves off the lethally dangerous roads in future at some point.
Hi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
I am sorry to tell you, that from Porto it gets even worse, or at least just as bad. It is less of asphalt roads, but more of the absurd phenomenon of country roads paved with cobble stones (see attached photos). I cannot understand why the Portuguese do it. It is not good for their agricultural machines, cars etc., and it is certainly very hard on a pilgrim's shoes and skeleton. I did suffer it all the way to the Spanish boarder, where it fortunately stopped, but I shall never do the Camino Portugues again because of it.Hi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
I had the same problem - I jumped ahead by train to Valença the continued on much better tracks on to SJC. Try the spiritual variant out of Pontevedra- wonderful!!Hi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
Gosh, sorry to hear this – I mean about the pain in both heels AND following the Brierley stages. That’s over 30kms every day for the first 7 days.
It does get better after Porto, but there are lots of cobblestones still to come. However, it does improve.
I love Lisbon to Santiago, because I love the wonderful Portuguese people, and their food, and their coastal boardwalks after Porto, and everything else that makes it the Portugués and not the Francés. But then I don’t walk Brierley stages.
I suggest staying on the Portugués and experience the whole route instead of giving up on it at this stage.
Good luck and Bom Caminho.
Jill
We do it because we like it, because it is an easy material to get, because it is an easy way to make sure cars go slow, because it blends in with nature, because the needs of pilgrims are not a priority, etc... I would get really mad if they started making everything with asphalt/concrete.I cannot understand why the Portuguese do it. It is not good for their agricultural machines, cars etc., and it is certainly very hard on a pilgrim's shoes and skeleton.
We do it because we like it, because it is an easy material to get, because it is an easy way to make sure cars go slow, because it blends in with nature, because the needs of pilgrims are not a priority, etc... I would get really mad if they started making everything with asphalt/concrete.
Cobblestone... and more cobblestone!Hi,
I'm now in Porto after walking from Lisbon and my feet are really killing me like on no other Camino I've done. While seeing thousands of lovely gardens with their flowers in full bloom and lots of amazing garden statues, I'm not sure I can take much more asphalt. The towns of Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra and Golega are stunning in themselves. The section from Tomar to Coimbra was lovely.
Today I was even thinking how wonderful the section from Leon to Hospital de Orbigo was (the section I used to think was awful), on a comfortable pilgrim soft path.
I don't know how much more road and car dodging I can take, as well as saying Bon Dia to friendly villager after villager. I really think that if the Portuguese want to create a great Caminho route that will attract lots of people, they are going to have to find a much greater proportion of tracks and paths not made of asphalt. So far, the other pilgrims I have met, who have all been at least second timers on a Camino, have all said the same.
So, I have decided I have 2 options for the rest of my time this year. 1. Continue. 2. Get to Astorga and get on the Frances.
So I have a rest day tomorrow and will decide? Does it get easier on the feet and nerves? Is the section from Porto more of the same or are there more non asphalt paths that allow for introspection rather than foot pain and car dodging?
Thanks for any advice.
Cobblestone... and more cobblestone!
I cannot understand why the Portuguese do it.
Good response.We do it because we like it, because it is an easy material to get, because it is an easy way to make sure cars go slow, because it blends in with nature, because the needs of pilgrims are not a priority, etc... I would get really mad if they started making everything with asphalt/concrete.
We do not want asphalt or concrete - we want the natural soil. What can be wrong with that? Why can they do it on the "Camino Portugues" in Spain and the Portuguese themselves cannot? Have you seen the photos I attached? How can you say that the cobble stones "blend with nature"?We do it because we like it, because it is an easy material to get, because it is an easy way to make sure cars go slow, because it blends in with nature, because the needs of pilgrims are not a priority, etc... I would get really mad if they started making everything with asphalt/concrete.
Absolute perfect replyWe do it because we like it, because it is an easy material to get, because it is an easy way to make sure cars go slow, because it blends in with nature, because the needs of pilgrims are not a priority, etc... I would get really mad if they started making everything with asphalt/concrete.
I am sorry to tell you, that from Porto it gets even worse, or at least just as bad. It is less of asphalt roads, but more of the absurd phenomenon of country roads paved with cobble stones (see attached photos). I cannot understand why the Portuguese do it. It is not good for their agricultural machines, cars etc., and it is certainly very hard on a pilgrim's shoes and skeleton. I did suffer it all the way to the Spanish boarder, where it fortunately stopped, but I shall never do the Camino Portugues again because of it.
So, I would advise you to take the first bus to Tui, on the Spanish side of the border, and continue walking from there.
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