- Time of past OR future Camino
- Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
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We appear to be just a day ahead of you in Zubiri, and have thoroughly enjoyed our walk thus far, particularly the beech forests in the fog. Buen Camino.I've just had dinner with lots who walked the Route Napoleon. Most were very disappointed because visibility was down to meters; thick mist and drizzle and no views. It can be spectacular, I've done it twice in wonderful weather with views that go forever. But I really would recommend making a choice in SJPDP depending on the weather. My walk today, in contrast to those who were disappointed, was through lovely countryside and beach forests, with wild flowers in abundance, waterfalls everywhere, two villages to enjoy and the lovely River Neve bubbling along beside me.
Wish you a wonderful journey Kanga.So here I am again, having a good time. I took the road through Valcarlos and it really is stunningly beautiful. Stayed in the Valcarlos albergue last night and there were only two of us in a twelve bed room. I had plenty of options in SJPDP the night before too, and now I'm happily in the albergue at Roncesvalles. Maybe the hoardes are staying away because they know I'm out there! If I want to meander along I will book ahead.
Buen Camino; maybe see you on the road?
A Dutch woman is missing between StJdPP and Pamplona. She lewft StJdPP on Thursday May 12. Since you are in the area, do you remenber seeing Diny Patelski?
A Dutch woman is missing between StJdPP and Pamplona. She lewft StJdPP on Thursday May 12. Since you are in the area, do you remenber seeing Diny Patelski?
I hope Tania is reading this Kanga……fantastic spirit. You go girl.I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
The standard of albergues is now very high, amazing value for the €10 that seems the norm.
I really am having the best time - it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day! Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.
now I'm happily in the albergue at Roncesvalles. Maybe the hoardes are staying away because they know I'm out there!
I suspect you'll make Pamplona or Cizur Menor today. Not sure if you're following the threads much, but there has been a lot of churn about bed races, hordes of pilgrims, and no room at the inn. What is your observation by this stage?I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
A week ago, there was a really large wave rolling west along the CF. I was simply confirming with @Kanga whether she was experiencing what folks were reporting a week ago, and she is not. It is still busy, for sure, and when the beds do run out, it doesn't matter whether it's upscale or basic. The beds simply run out. The open question is whether the waves this year are slightly worse than last year, much more worse than last year, or flat out a tsunami.I wonder what I'm reading--a lot of worry and distress about bed-searches along the camino this month. Is this more to do with pre-booked accommodation (private albergues, or hostales/hoteles), or are people having huge problems as well in the 'basic' municipal/parochial albergues? I think I'm wondering if the problem is universal, or if it's more acute among those individuals (and groups!) who wish to stay in more up-market, bookable accommodation? I'm a spring (Mar-Apr) caminante--for any level of peace, will I soon need to join Margaret on a 'winter' camino, brrr?! (Apr 5-19 from Carrión to Samos was 'uncluttered' and very enjoyable this spring, despite dubious weather.)
Many albergues do let you book ahead. Mostly those that are private, though some confraternity and municipal as well. Parochials tend not to take them.Okay, but I'm still wondering. I do understand the existence of 'waves', but it just seemed like most of the people worried on the forum this week have referred to 'booking ahead', which one doesn't/can't do in albergues. Thanks, Koilife
Your new friends up in the mountains here feel like we're stepping with you along the way. Enjoy every breath. Buen Camino and feel the love from downunder!I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
The standard of albergues is now very high, amazing value for the €10 that seems the norm.
I really am having the best time - it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day! Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.
Kaiplentz so sorry to see this. I will assume your are on the Camino Frances. Had you thought of diverting to another route?Finally it's time to say adios to the Camino. It seriously has become a tourist attraction. It was good at the time but the magic has gone. Buen Camino everyone.
Sorry to say but you are assuming wrong. I am not on the Camino at the moment but I was on the del Norte just a few weeks ago. At that time it was not busy but albergues were preparing for the season, which tells me it has become a tourist attraction and that's all it is now.Kaiplentz so sorry to see this. I will assume your are on the Camino Frances. Had you thought of diverting to another route?
That would be nice. But I live now and it is a tourist attraction at its hight at the moment.That's a value judgement. The camino has been here for a thousand years. It gets crowded for a while, then it dies away and is almost forgotten, then it comes back again.
This big wave won't last forever. The camino will still be here for pilgrims, long after we and the tour-buses and money-grubbers and crowds all are gone and forgotten.
That
No not in a huff at all and not slamming doors. I just think it's not what it used to be. A few years ago the del Norte and Portuguese and VDLP were all not that busy at all but things changed now. Obviously there are other Camino's but give it a couple of years and they are going to be a tourist trail and not much more.give it a few years and check back. It's not going anywhere. Meantime, you can explore the Camino de Madrid, the San Salvador, the Invierno, and any of several quiet, decent, lovely and safe alternatives.
Or you can just get all disgusted and go slamming out the door in a huff.
It's all up to you!
Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.
Well, Kanga's obviously having a great time.Gorgeous.
That's a value judgement. The camino has been here for a thousand years. It gets crowded for a while, then it dies away and is almost forgotten, then it comes back again.
This big wave won't last forever. The camino will still be here for pilgrims, long after we and the tour-buses and money-grubbers and crowds all are gone and forgotten.
When I arrived in Santiago a lot of people continued towards Finisterre/Muxia the next day or so, so my guess would be yes with Finisterre typically busier than Muxia. Buen Camino, SY
Let's go!San Andres de Teixido
I think that says it all- it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day!
When I arrived in Santiago a lot of people continued towards Finisterre/Muxia the next day or so, so my guess would be yes with Finisterre typically busier than Muxia. Buen Camino, SY
@movinmaggie:That's it. I'll order the book. I still prefer the feel of a book in my hand. But great that others have the option for the Kindle.Thanks Kanga.
http://www.monbus.es/enSY do you know what time the bus leaves Finnistaire to Santiago on a monday,tried googling it without success,cheers.
When I was reading up Davidson and Gitlitz on Punta La Reina I came across this passage
The Italian pilgrim Domenico Laffi described in some detail his entrance into Puente la Reina in a way that makes clear how universal are the experiences of hiking pilgrims: difficulty in finding comfortable lodging, closed monuments, and the dual demands of religion and tourism:
Bear in mind, Demenico Laffi was writing in 1673:
We passed through a great forest, finally reaching Puente la Reina … . After taking a short walk through the town and seeing its fine buildings and churches we looked for an inn to lodge. But we could find nothing because
the place was already full of people and there was nowhere for us … . We looked for lodging in many places but in vain.
So the angst people are expressing about the CF has a long history. I personally are not finding it so very different to the first time I walked on 2001. I love it!
View attachment 26195 The Camino Francés - overrun with pilgrims!
The St Jean 900 are massed just over the horizon, waiting for the solitary Australian woman to pick her lonely path beneath the cerulean sky.Obviously the hoardes are having a wee sleep in the field
The St Jean 900 are massed just over the horizon, waiting for the solitary Australian woman to pick her lonely path beneath the cerulean sky.
ditto for the Meseta Virannani, I wallowed in all that nothingness………I found it profoundly moving.Liking all but the last post, Kanga! You're in my almost-favorite part of the CF (the meseta can't be beat...), so it's lovely to read your updates. Thank you.
But blisters?! Grf. I hope they heal soon...and that whatever other little surprises the Camino has in store for you be good ones!
That's a pretty cool looking Macabi skirt there!View attachment 26238 The Camino is not so crowded. Although a kindly soul did take this photo
I don't recall this. Is it a variant?View attachment 26445 A simply perfect day on the Camino. Haro to Santo Domingo is a lovely walk, a few kilometres of minor road leaving Haro, then a lovely walk across fields. Not many walk it, according to a señora who lives on the path, which is a pity.
Thanks for this. I'll have to think this through a bit, as my original plan was Logrono --> Ventosa --> Azofra/Ciruena --> Granon which is a nice few warm-up days as we trained up to 18 miles, but weren't able to string back-to-back-to-back training days.I wanted to see Haro, which is the capital of La Rioja. You can detour from Najera to Haro, or do as I did and get a bus from Logroño (I actually backtracked from Navarette) to Haro. It's a nice 20 km from Haro to Sto Domingo, with two villages (and bars!) on the way.
It all sounds so great Kanga…….nice to see your posts.@koilife I stayed overnight in the delightful municipal albergue - spotless, room to myself, nice garden, very secure (you get a key to the outter gate as well as the house), good kitchen, hot shower - and all for the princely sum of €5 (so I made a donativo in appreciation of its very existence).
When you arrive (ask for directions, it's a bit off the Camino path) you telephone the number on the gate and the hospitalero comes and let's you in.
So that the rest of us can get a sense of location for the wave you're in, where are you right now?Not been an afternoon yet that we haven't seen people turned away or given a floor to sleep on. Of course I've never seen so many totally disrespectful walkers in my life. It doesn't matter if you stop before the guide breaks or before.
Actually, there has been talk about the phenomenon of waves of pilgrims for years on the forums and in guidebooks. The term "wave" isn't always used, but the reality has been there for a long time, as has guidance on how to get out of those situations to something a little more sane and quiet.The "wave" is a new buzz word for sure. No waves, it is rediculous and to say it's not...well.....
Kanga,I wanted to see Haro, which is the capital of La Rioja. You can detour from Najera to Haro, or do as I did and get a bus from Logroño (I actually backtracked from Navarette) to Haro. It's a nice 20 km from Haro to Sto Domingo, with two villages (and bars!) on the way.
Hi Kanga,@Gadflyparexcellence oh yes, and don't let the inhabitants of Haro hear you suggest it! Logroño is bigger, but Haro is the capitol.
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