It's today, my very favourite day

[Kanga]

So here I am again, having a good time. I took the road through Valcarlos and it really is stunningly beautiful. Stayed in the Valcarlos albergue last night and there were only two of us in a twelve bed room. I had plenty of options in SJPDP the night before too, and now I'm happily in the albergue at Roncesvalles. Maybe the hoardes are staying away because they know I'm out there! If I want to meander along I will book ahead.
Buen Camino; maybe see you on the road?

 

[wayfarer]

Buen Camino Kanga. Enjoy it all.

 

[Kanga]

I've just had dinner with lots who walked the Route Napoleon. Most were very disappointed because visibility was down to meters; thick mist and drizzle and no views. It can be spectacular, I've done it twice in wonderful weather with views that go forever. But I really would recommend making a choice in SJPDP depending on the weather. My walk today, in contrast to those who were disappointed, was through lovely countryside and beach forests, with wild flowers in abundance, waterfalls everywhere, two villages to enjoy and the lovely River Neve bubbling along beside me.

 

[wayfarer]

I am jealous.

 

[Kuznitz]

I've just had dinner with lots who walked the Route Napoleon. Most were very disappointed because visibility was down to meters; thick mist and drizzle and no views. It can be spectacular, I've done it twice in wonderful weather with views that go forever. But I really would recommend making a choice in SJPDP depending on the weather. My walk today, in contrast to those who were disappointed, was through lovely countryside and beach forests, with wild flowers in abundance, waterfalls everywhere, two villages to enjoy and the lovely River Neve bubbling along beside me.

We appear to be just a day ahead of you in Zubiri, and have thoroughly enjoyed our walk thus far, particularly the beech forests in the fog. Buen Camino.

 

[Castilian]

Enjoy every step and every stop of your camino!

 

[norelle]

Also jealous......

Buen Camino, Kanga!

 

[MinaKamina]

A Dutch woman is missing between StJdPP and Pamplona. She lewft StJdPP on Thursday May 12. Since you are in the area, do you remenber seeing Diny Patelski?

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

So here I am again, having a good time. I took the road through Valcarlos and it really is stunningly beautiful. Stayed in the Valcarlos albergue last night and there were only two of us in a twelve bed room. I had plenty of options in SJPDP the night before too, and now I'm happily in the albergue at Roncesvalles. Maybe the hoardes are staying away because they know I'm out there! If I want to meander along I will book ahead.
Buen Camino; maybe see you on the road?

Wish you a wonderful journey Kanga.
Buen Camino, Peter.

 

[Margaret Spencer]

So pleased it is all going well for you. One day I may have to catch up with you in Sydney when both you and I have finished our respective walks. Or maybe you will come to New Zeaalnd and embark on the Te Araroa Trail covering the length of New Zealand.

 

[movinmaggie]

Continued Buen Camino Kanga…...

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

Buen Camino!

May the rest of your journey go as well... I am so envious... sitting here reminiscing... this time last year we were walking that wonderful stretch up to O'Cebreiro... sigh...

 

[Irish Bernie]

A Dutch woman is missing between StJdPP and Pamplona. She lewft StJdPP on Thursday May 12. Since you are in the area, do you remenber seeing Diny Patelski?

Some people have since met Diny and all is ok.

 

[BrienC]

Happy trails, Kanga!

 

[t2andreo]

A Dutch woman is missing between StJdPP and Pamplona. She lewft StJdPP on Thursday May 12. Since you are in the area, do you remenber seeing Diny Patelski?

Dina resurfaced on her own, after a long holiday weekend. Good to everyone who took her temporary disappearance seriously. Better that than ignoring it.

But all is well that ends well. This was reported in a separate thread.

I hope this helps.

 

[Kanga]

I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
The standard of albergues is now very high, amazing value for the €10 that seems the norm.
I really am having the best time - it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day! Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.

 

[movinmaggie]

I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
The standard of albergues is now very high, amazing value for the €10 that seems the norm.
I really am having the best time - it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day! Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.

I hope Tania is reading this Kanga……fantastic spirit. You go girl.

 

[gerardcarey]

I think it's true.
Some people come into your life, however vicariously, and show you who you want to be like.
Go the Kanga.

Regards and good travelling
Gerard

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Kanga - are you walking all the way to Santiago, and maybe out to Finisterre? I hope that all goes really well and that you have joy in every moment and in every step.
Cheers -
Jenny

 

[VNwalking]

Heartfelt Buen Camino, Kanga...I'm so happy you're there, at long last!

 

[DurhamParish]

Buen Camino Kanga. Enjoy. I'm jealous.

 

[koilife]

now I'm happily in the albergue at Roncesvalles. Maybe the hoardes are staying away because they know I'm out there!

I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.

I suspect you'll make Pamplona or Cizur Menor today. Not sure if you're following the threads much, but there has been a lot of churn about bed races, hordes of pilgrims, and no room at the inn. What is your observation by this stage?

Oh, and Buen Camino! I'm still holding out to meet you in person around the time I cut north onto the Salvador.

 

[Kanga]

Yes, I'm in Pamplona. I'm staying in a hotel so I can stay out late but my fellow pilgrims don't seem to have had problems getting beds in albergues. We only walked from Larrasoaña today so we did arrive here quite early.
I think it's a matter of being flexible. There are always a few choke points but avoid those if arriving late. For example at Roncesvalles they were using the overflow facilities but there were plenty of beds available a few kilometres up the road at Burguette and Espinal. Or book ahead if it stresses you out.
PS plenty of beds were available at the Padres Reparadores albergue at Trinidad de Arre. Which has great history and a lovely walled garden!

 

[Silverton]

I wonder what I'm reading--a lot of worry and distress about bed-searches along the camino this month. Is this more to do with pre-booked accommodation (private albergues, or hostales/hoteles), or are people having huge problems as well in the 'basic' municipal/parochial albergues? I think I'm wondering if the problem is universal, or if it's more acute among those individuals (and groups!) who wish to stay in more up-market, bookable accommodation? I'm a spring (Mar-Apr) caminante--for any level of peace, will I soon need to join Margaret on a 'winter' camino, brrr?! (Apr 5-19 from Carrión to Samos was 'uncluttered' and very enjoyable this spring, despite dubious weather.)

 

[koilife]

I wonder what I'm reading--a lot of worry and distress about bed-searches along the camino this month. Is this more to do with pre-booked accommodation (private albergues, or hostales/hoteles), or are people having huge problems as well in the 'basic' municipal/parochial albergues? I think I'm wondering if the problem is universal, or if it's more acute among those individuals (and groups!) who wish to stay in more up-market, bookable accommodation? I'm a spring (Mar-Apr) caminante--for any level of peace, will I soon need to join Margaret on a 'winter' camino, brrr?! (Apr 5-19 from Carrión to Samos was 'uncluttered' and very enjoyable this spring, despite dubious weather.)

A week ago, there was a really large wave rolling west along the CF. I was simply confirming with @Kanga whether she was experiencing what folks were reporting a week ago, and she is not. It is still busy, for sure, and when the beds do run out, it doesn't matter whether it's upscale or basic. The beds simply run out. The open question is whether the waves this year are slightly worse than last year, much more worse than last year, or flat out a tsunami.

As for myself, I am not worried, nor do I think one needs to worry unless there are specific medical or age-related issues that pose genuine risks to manage. Hardship and suffering on a camino is (IMO) a blessing to be accepted and even welcomed when it presents itself (though they need not be sought out).

 

[Silverton]

Okay, but I'm still wondering. I do understand the existence of 'waves', but it just seemed like most of the people worried on the forum this week have referred to 'booking ahead', which one doesn't/can't do in albergues. Thanks, Koilife

 

[koilife]

Okay, but I'm still wondering. I do understand the existence of 'waves', but it just seemed like most of the people worried on the forum this week have referred to 'booking ahead', which one doesn't/can't do in albergues. Thanks, Koilife

Many albergues do let you book ahead. Mostly those that are private, though some confraternity and municipal as well. Parochials tend not to take them.

 

[Kanga]

My opinion is that it is fear driving fear. If you can't cope with uncertainty, book a Camino tour. There are plenty of commercial operators who would love to help.

 

[jennie]

thank you for the very positive attitude,i for one always prefer to go with a rough idea of where we may sleep and would rather not book ahead,am heading out the 2nd week in june and hope to just play it by ear,but semi confidant as i am that all will be well it was still great to hear your reassuring words.buen camino keep us posted please

 

[Blaster]

I've astonished myself by making it to Larrasoaña from Roncesvalles while still feeling good! Lots of happy people walking which provides distraction on the difficult stretches.
The standard of albergues is now very high, amazing value for the €10 that seems the norm.
I really am having the best time - it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day! Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.

Your new friends up in the mountains here feel like we're stepping with you along the way. Enjoy every breath. Buen Camino and feel the love from downunder!

 

[Kanga]

Had far too many tapas last night in Calle San Nicholas - but how could I resist such delicious offerings? Goats cheese and quince with Jason Serrano, croquetas de setas, pulpo con vegetativos - muy richo todos!

 

[VNwalking]

So now you get to walk all that off.

Hope you can stay on the back side of the wave, Kanga. Continued buen Camino (con taps!)

 

[Kanga]

Sitting in the beautiful sunny peaceful garden at the Padres Reparadores Albergue in Punta La Reina, body showered, clothes washed. Heard my first stork clacking its bill and looked out the albergue window to see one take off from a nest in the church tower next door. Enjoyed the swallows busily glittering in and out of nests built in the eves of the houses along the way, and the wildflowers are just a carpet. Coming down the rolling rocky path from the Alto del Perdon I could not resist walking on some of the thyme that is flowering in profusion - the smell! Gorgeous.

 

[Kaiplentz]

Finally it's time to say adios to the Camino. It seriously has become a tourist attraction. It was good at the time but the magic has gone. Buen Camino everyone.

 

[movinmaggie]

Finally it's time to say adios to the Camino. It seriously has become a tourist attraction. It was good at the time but the magic has gone. Buen Camino everyone.

Kaiplentz so sorry to see this. I will assume your are on the Camino Frances. Had you thought of diverting to another route?

 

[Kaiplentz]

Kaiplentz so sorry to see this. I will assume your are on the Camino Frances. Had you thought of diverting to another route?

Sorry to say but you are assuming wrong. I am not on the Camino at the moment but I was on the del Norte just a few weeks ago. At that time it was not busy but albergues were preparing for the season, which tells me it has become a tourist attraction and that's all it is now.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

That's a value judgement. The camino has been here for a thousand years. It gets crowded for a while, then it dies away and is almost forgotten, then it comes back again.
This big wave won't last forever. The camino will still be here for pilgrims, long after we and the tour-buses and money-grubbers and crowds all are gone and forgotten.

 

[Kaiplentz]

That

That's a value judgement. The camino has been here for a thousand years. It gets crowded for a while, then it dies away and is almost forgotten, then it comes back again.
This big wave won't last forever. The camino will still be here for pilgrims, long after we and the tour-buses and money-grubbers and crowds all are gone and forgotten.

That would be nice. But I live now and it is a tourist attraction at its hight at the moment.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

give it a few years and check back. It's not going anywhere. Meantime, you can explore the Camino de Madrid, the San Salvador, the Invierno, and any of several quiet, decent, lovely and safe alternatives.
Or you can just get all disgusted and go slamming out the door in a huff.

It's all up to you!

 

[Kaiplentz]

That

give it a few years and check back. It's not going anywhere. Meantime, you can explore the Camino de Madrid, the San Salvador, the Invierno, and any of several quiet, decent, lovely and safe alternatives.
Or you can just get all disgusted and go slamming out the door in a huff.

It's all up to you!

No not in a huff at all and not slamming doors. I just think it's not what it used to be. A few years ago the del Norte and Portuguese and VDLP were all not that busy at all but things changed now. Obviously there are other Camino's but give it a couple of years and they are going to be a tourist trail and not much more.

 

[VNwalking]

Not a big leap to feel the hand of the Almighty.

Gorgeous.

Well, Kanga's obviously having a great time.
You go girl!

 

[SYates]

That's a value judgement. The camino has been here for a thousand years. It gets crowded for a while, then it dies away and is almost forgotten, then it comes back again.
This big wave won't last forever. The camino will still be here for pilgrims, long after we and the tour-buses and money-grubbers and crowds all are gone and forgotten.

Absolutely agree and lets not forget that it is still not as crowded as it used to be in the medieval ages. At one time Astorga had 23 albergues and one town employee that marked pilgrims staffs to ensure they don't just wander from albergue to albergue and stay weeks or even months in town. If you read the old records, you can see that the complains were exactly the same like today - or worse. On both sites btw, regarding pilgrim behaviour and regarding behaviour towards pilgrims. The good old times weren't really so good ;-) Buen Camino, SY

 

[Irish Bernie]

Any idea if it's busy between Santiago-Finnistaire ?

 

[SYates]

When I arrived in Santiago a lot of people continued towards Finisterre/Muxia the next day or so, so my guess would be yes with Finisterre typically busier than Muxia. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Irish Bernie]

When I arrived in Santiago a lot of people continued towards Finisterre/Muxia the next day or so, so my guess would be yes with Finisterre typically busier than Muxia. Buen Camino, SY

Poo sticks and blisters !!!!!

 

[SYates]

One thing what I often thought about but never could convince my feet to do after a long camino is walking the Camino Ingles backwards to Ferrol and then continue for ~2 days to San Andres de Teixido. I have been there by car but never on foot. Perhaps that is an option for an adventurous pilgrim? Buen Camino, SY

 

[VNwalking]

San Andres de Teixido

Let's go!
After hearing about this very odd place I have to admit it's an intriguing idea, SY.
Bring some stones and a few ghosts....and don't harm any small animals!

 

[Dutchwalk53]

- it is pretty easy to answer "why do you keep coming back?" - exercise, endorphins, good company from around the globe, beautiful countryside, amazing history, no stress, no decisions, time to think, time to feel, wild flowers, reconnecting with nature, gratitude for it all. Even the body aches and pains pay their part because it is soooo pleasureable to climb into bed at the end of the day!

I think that says it all

 

[Kanga]

When I was reading up Davidson and Gitlitz on Punta La Reina I came across this passage

The Italian pilgrim Domenico Laffi described in some detail his entrance into Puente la Reina in a way that makes clear how universal are the experiences of hiking pilgrims: difficulty in finding comfortable lodging, closed monuments, and the dual demands of religion and tourism:

Bear in mind, Demenico Laffi was writing in 1673:

We passed through a great forest, finally reaching Puente la Reina … . After taking a short walk through the town and seeing its fine buildings and churches we looked for an inn to lodge. But we could find nothing because
the place was already full of people and there was nowhere for us … . We looked for lodging in many places but in vain.

So the angst people are expressing about the CF has a long history. I personally are not finding it so very different to the first time I walked on 2001. I love it!

 

[movinmaggie]

Kanga what is this book title again?
I made a note of the authors' names but forgot to note the title. Thanks. You sound in such great spirit and I know you're passing much of that same spirit our way.

 

[Kanga]

Sorry, I should have given a full acknowledgement. The book is "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago; A complete cultural handbook" by Robyn Davidson and David Gitlitz. It is an invaluable resource but a large book, so doubly useful now it is available in a Kindle edition for downloading on a smartphone.

 

[movinmaggie]

That's it. I'll order the book. I still prefer the feel of a book in my hand. But great that others have the option for the Kindle.Thanks Kanga.

 

[Irish Bernie]

When I arrived in Santiago a lot of people continued towards Finisterre/Muxia the next day or so, so my guess would be yes with Finisterre typically busier than Muxia. Buen Camino, SY

SY do you know what time the bus leaves Finnistaire to Santiago on a monday,tried googling it without success,cheers.

 

[Albertagirl]

That's it. I'll order the book. I still prefer the feel of a book in my hand. But great that others have the option for the Kindle.Thanks Kanga.

@movinmaggie:
I bought a paper copy at a second hand store and read most of it. But before I left on my camino last fall I also downloaded the Kindle app to my ipad and bought a Kindle copy. The book contains much commentary on the details of the architecture of historic monuments on the camino frances and also the Aragones. It was very useful for understanding what I was looking at along the way and pointing my attention to things which I would otherwise have missed.

 

[koilife]

SY do you know what time the bus leaves Finnistaire to Santiago on a monday,tried googling it without success,cheers.

http://www.monbus.es/en

 

[Kanga]

The Camino Francés - overrun with pilgrims!

 

[Kanga]

I am now in Los Arcos and not having any problems with accommodation. The muni was still taking people at 4pm.

There is a 5am rush each morning of those who think they have to run to get a bed. Nuts. Like lemmings! Some of the popular private albergues are full by 3 or 4pm, but that is not unusual - even back in 2001 we could not get into the Roncal albergue outside Pamplona because it was full.

I left Villatuerta yesterday at 8am and saw very few people on the road, just a nice smattering of familiar faces at the bars and rest stops along the way. On the path itself I was completely alone all the way from Estella to Los Arcos.

 

[Juanajoanna]

When I was reading up Davidson and Gitlitz on Punta La Reina I came across this passage

The Italian pilgrim Domenico Laffi described in some detail his entrance into Puente la Reina in a way that makes clear how universal are the experiences of hiking pilgrims: difficulty in finding comfortable lodging, closed monuments, and the dual demands of religion and tourism:

Bear in mind, Demenico Laffi was writing in 1673:

We passed through a great forest, finally reaching Puente la Reina … . After taking a short walk through the town and seeing its fine buildings and churches we looked for an inn to lodge. But we could find nothing because
the place was already full of people and there was nowhere for us … . We looked for lodging in many places but in vain.

So the angst people are expressing about the CF has a long history. I personally are not finding it so very different to the first time I walked on 2001. I love it!

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

 

[mspath]

Sounds great Kanga! Your photo of the empty path brings back happy memories. Carpe diem!

 

[Irish Bernie]

View attachment 26195 The Camino Francés - overrun with pilgrims!

Obviously the hoardes are having a wee sleep in the field

 

[koilife]

Obviously the hoardes are having a wee sleep in the field

The St Jean 900 are massed just over the horizon, waiting for the solitary Australian woman to pick her lonely path beneath the cerulean sky.

 

[Irish Bernie]

The St Jean 900 are massed just over the horizon, waiting for the solitary Australian woman to pick her lonely path beneath the cerulean sky.

Time to circle the rucksacks !!!!

 

[Kanga]

Another glorious day, sunny but with a lovely cooling breeze.
I'm in Viana tonight and I'm staying in a hotel, not because the albergues are full but after six nights I need a bit of luxury. Again, for long periods I walked alone today and even at 7:30pm there are still beds available at the municipal albergue and a group of fellow walkers who did not want to stay there had no problem finding an apartment for the night, very reasonably priced. I got my hotel room without reserving.
I don't start walking in the dark, I don't hurry, I don't walk too far and I don't try to find the "best" albergue.

 

[movinmaggie]

Ah, the memories .....

 

[FurnessTravellers]

Hi kanga, loving reading the accounts of your journey so far. We are looking at going again next May, (2017 ), and hearing about all the flowers and greenery are making me believe we have made the right decision. We were on the camino in August /September last time and it was hot and dry, but still absolutely wonderful.
Buen camino

 

[Kanga]

Have just rolled into Navarette at 4:15pm and had no trouble getting a bed at the municipal albergue, which was my first port of call. All good.

 

[Anniesantiago]

You must be behind the wave we are in. Because today I saw many freezing pilgrims turned away in Rabanal del Camino. They are still coming in and the taxis are making a mint.

 

[Kanga]

Maybe many people start from SJPDP on or close to 1 May. I did on my first Camino, and the forum calendar certainly looked busy then. This time I started a couple of weeks later.

 

[Kanga]

But I have blisters! Me! The Camino still surprises. I am meeting a friend in Burgos this week and will not make it without a bus trip somewhere. Maybe the bus trip should be sooner rather than later.

 

[VNwalking]

Liking all but the last post, Kanga! You're in my almost-favorite part of the CF (the meseta can't be beat...), so it's lovely to read your updates. Thank you.
But blisters?! Grf. I hope they heal soon...and that whatever other little surprises the Camino has in store for you be good ones!

 

[Kanga]

The Camino is not so crowded. Although a kindly soul did take this photo

 

[VNwalking]

Gorgeous!!!

 

[movinmaggie]

Liking all but the last post, Kanga! You're in my almost-favorite part of the CF (the meseta can't be beat...), so it's lovely to read your updates. Thank you.
But blisters?! Grf. I hope they heal soon...and that whatever other little surprises the Camino has in store for you be good ones!

ditto for the Meseta Virannani, I wallowed in all that nothingness………I found it profoundly moving.

 

[koilife]

View attachment 26238 The Camino is not so crowded. Although a kindly soul did take this photo

That's a pretty cool looking Macabi skirt there!

 

[DurhamParish]

Beautiful picture, Kanga. Thanks for sharing your Camino with us.

 

[Irish Bernie]

http://www.monbus.es/en

Many thanks.

 

[Kanga]

A simply perfect day on the Camino. Haro to Santo Domingo is a lovely walk, a few kilometres of minor road leaving Haro, then a lovely walk across fields. Not many walk it, according to a señora who lives on the path, which is a pity.

 

[koilife]

View attachment 26445 A simply perfect day on the Camino. Haro to Santo Domingo is a lovely walk, a few kilometres of minor road leaving Haro, then a lovely walk across fields. Not many walk it, according to a señora who lives on the path, which is a pity.

I don't recall this. Is it a variant?

 

[Kanga]

I wanted to see Haro, which is the capital of La Rioja. You can detour from Najera to Haro, or do as I did and get a bus from Logroño (I actually backtracked from Navarette) to Haro. It's a nice 20 km from Haro to Sto Domingo, with two villages (and bars!) on the way.

 

[koilife]

I wanted to see Haro, which is the capital of La Rioja. You can detour from Najera to Haro, or do as I did and get a bus from Logroño (I actually backtracked from Navarette) to Haro. It's a nice 20 km from Haro to Sto Domingo, with two villages (and bars!) on the way.

Thanks for this. I'll have to think this through a bit, as my original plan was Logrono --> Ventosa --> Azofra/Ciruena --> Granon which is a nice few warm-up days as we trained up to 18 miles, but weren't able to string back-to-back-to-back training days.

One goal this time around is to stay at the parroquial in Granon (I missed it last time, and the next time I'm likely to walk the Frances again will be something like six years from now when all the boys are out of school and my wife is ready to walk), so I need to plan to get there early enough to be sure of a bed, especially if there is any kind of wave coming out of Logrono on the weekend. At 25km, that shouldn't be a big issue if we start early and don't spend too much time looking at chickens.

Did you stay overnight in Haro, or just catch an early bus and start walking? And, was the route marked or did you simply set your course towards the second star on the right and straight on till morning?

 

[Kanga]

@koilife I stayed overnight in the delightful municipal albergue - spotless, room to myself, nice garden, very secure (you get a key to the outter gate as well as the house), good kitchen, hot shower - and all for the princely sum of €5 (so I made a donativo in appreciation of its very existence).
When you arrive (ask for directions, it's a bit off the Camino path) you telephone the number on the gate and the hospitalero comes and let's you in.

 

[movinmaggie]

@koilife I stayed overnight in the delightful municipal albergue - spotless, room to myself, nice garden, very secure (you get a key to the outter gate as well as the house), good kitchen, hot shower - and all for the princely sum of €5 (so I made a donativo in appreciation of its very existence).
When you arrive (ask for directions, it's a bit off the Camino path) you telephone the number on the gate and the hospitalero comes and let's you in.

It all sounds so great Kanga…….nice to see your posts.

 

[VNwalking]

Ha ha, kanga. Thanks. Now your post creates a difficult choice for what was already on my list for a planned detour 'next time' I'm on that stretch of the Frances:
Cañas and Yuso/Suso...or Haro.
I like the sound of this. The road less traveled and no tourist coaches.
Meanwhile I hope your blisters are on the mend.
Buen Camino and thanks for sharing your journey with us.

 

[Scott Sweeney]

Not been an afternoon yet that we haven't seen people turned away or given a floor to sleep on. Of course I've never seen so many totally disrespectful walkers in my life. It doesn't matter if you stop before the guide breaks or before.

 

[Kanga]

Yay! I found the river route into Burgos (only my fourth try!) and it was beautiful. Grateful thanks to @minaleigh whose PDF photo guide in the resources section made it all happen.

 

[Kanga]

Oh, and as reported in another thread, last night there were only three of us in the very nice Santa Fe Albergue in Cardeñuela Riopico.

 

[koilife]

Not been an afternoon yet that we haven't seen people turned away or given a floor to sleep on. Of course I've never seen so many totally disrespectful walkers in my life. It doesn't matter if you stop before the guide breaks or before.

So that the rest of us can get a sense of location for the wave you're in, where are you right now?

 

[Scott Sweeney]

The "wave" is a new buzz word for sure. No waves, it is rediculous and to say it's not...well.....

 

[koilife]

The "wave" is a new buzz word for sure. No waves, it is rediculous and to say it's not...well.....

Actually, there has been talk about the phenomenon of waves of pilgrims for years on the forums and in guidebooks. The term "wave" isn't always used, but the reality has been there for a long time, as has guidance on how to get out of those situations to something a little more sane and quiet.

There appears to be a great disparity between your current experience, which seems like you are caught in a large volume of pilgrims moving through the same places at the same time, and Kanga's experience here in this thread where there are notably fewer people.

Which brings me back to the question of where are you right now?

 

[Kanga]

I've just had a wonderful two days in Burgos and am now travelling with my friend, Catherine. Freezing cold rain late in the day saw us so grateful to arrive at the albergue in Rabe (Libre Dominis - or something like that - drat this tiny phone) - a warm welcome, great shower, lively communal dinner, Vespers with the nuns. Ah.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Kanga, if you're heading for San Anton tomorrow, I will be there in the late afternoon to drop off a hospitalero... maybe I'll get lucky and see you?

 

[domigee]

Love that albergue, Libéranos Dómine! On my first visit the hospitalero gave us a small medal, I still have it on my rucksack
I am so glad you're having a good Camino, Kanga. Also delighted you are not experiencing the 'horrendous crowds' we have come to fear This has been my experience on the francés on two occasions, both in the Summer and I am not sure people believed me when I reported walking alone on many occasions... No problems finding beds either....
Mind you, 'famous last words' spring to mind better not jinx it!
Ultreia!

 

[VNwalking]

Wishing you continued quiet walking Kanga.
Loved Rabé and Vespers with the nuns...a lovely albergue too . Hopefully you and Rebekah manage to meet up tomorrow.
And that your blisters have healed or are healing well . Buen Camino!

 

[Kanga]

@Rebekah Scott we only made Hontanas - Catherine's second day of walking and 20km was enough. Staying at the Santa Brigida Albergue which is great. We think we'll be lazy pilgrims and mooch over to San Anton tomorrow.

 

[Gadflyparexcellence]

I wanted to see Haro, which is the capital of La Rioja. You can detour from Najera to Haro, or do as I did and get a bus from Logroño (I actually backtracked from Navarette) to Haro. It's a nice 20 km from Haro to Sto Domingo, with two villages (and bars!) on the way.

Kanga,

Have been enjoying your observations. Just one quick question: Are you sure that Haro is the capital of La Rioja? I'm almost certain that it's Logrono. But it's possible that I may be wrong.

I have been to Haro. Some of the best Rioja wineries, including Lopez de Heredia, are based there.

Buen Camino,
Gadfly

 

[Kanga]

@Gadflyparexcellence oh yes, and don't let the inhabitants of Haro hear you suggest it! Logroño is bigger, but Haro is the capitol.

 

[Kanga]

We are in Carrion de Los Condes and had no trouble getting beds last night. I'm still waiting to be knocked over by the hoardes!

 

[Gadflyparexcellence]

@Gadflyparexcellence oh yes, and don't let the inhabitants of Haro hear you suggest it! Logroño is bigger, but Haro is the capitol.

Hi Kanga,
I verified with the Spain Official Tourism and other sources. Logroño is indeed the capital of La Rioja, not Haro.
Best,
Gadfly

 

[Kanga]

Yes, you are right. I'm now told Haro is the wine Capitol of La Rioja - which for some is the same thing!

 

[Kanga]

Haven't posted for a while, but all going well and we have not had to sleep rough yet. Now in Bercianos in the parochial albergue, a restored and renovated adobe building. The locals have made a great job of it. Enjoying lovely weather and the fields are beautiful; green with new wheat and lush with wildflowers.