Larrasoaña

[MontanaWendy]

For anyone planning to stay the night in Larrasoaña... the albergue is not such a great place. In general (contrary to the Brierley guide) the people runing it were quite unwelcoming. One woman who stayed there described them as "vicious" when I spoke to her the next morning. The facilities are very rustic (they do have a kitchen, which is a plus) with lists of rules on the walls. They stop in at 6pm to stamp credentials, otherwise are absent. You must be gone by 7:30 am. I chose to stay at the Pension El Peregrino. More expensive, yes, but very nice, with a big fresh towel.

Note that there are no taverns or restaurants open in the town this time of year. The one mentioned in the guide told me they were closed for vacation. There is one small tienda which has pastries and coffee in the morning. For your evening meal you must plan ahead. The pilgrims in the pension (Pension El Camino was closed) and in the albergue were all hungry. A couple of them went by car back to Zubiri for groceries, and we ended up all gathering at the kitchen in the albergue to cook a communal meal. Turned out to be a wonderful time, but the conditions were just right. Better to bring food with you if you stay there.

 

[stephen.antrim]

It's been a while since I was there. Isn't there a well-stocked shop, with a bar attached, in one of the streets to the left as you enter the town from the bridge?

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Stephen

I don't think so, unless it's opened/closed since I was there. I remember running out of cigarettes there and being unable to find a shop. I heard a rumour that there was a shop on the edge of the village somewhere but it was off route and closed by the time I found out. There was a bar but no cigarette machine!

Zubiri seemed to be a better option in several ways. It has more facilities and splits the stages between Roncesvalles and Pamplona more evenly.

Buen Camino!

 

[Thornley]

Hi Wendy,

This was the worst town/albergue we have found in 5 different camino's .
It seems nothing has changed since 08 when we were told a person purchased and then closed other eateries in the town.
Was the purchaser the mayor as we were told or the family associated with the albergue as was mentioned by others.
There have been many stories
It was after this town that many young pilgrims discarded Brierleys book and took pot luck.
They were very wise.

 

[grayland]

Seems that things do not change much in Larrasoana. The description of the albergue fits with all that I have heard except that it has been described to me several times as very dirty as well as the other problems.
In May of this year I stayed again at the El Peregrino which is a nice place to stay. El Peregrino is often hard to locate the owner...but a call will usually get him there in a short period.

There was only the restaurant/bar open in May. It is the only option for dinner and took prepaid reservations only with huge groups of people in each feeding group. Nothing else open any where in town. In 2009 and 20019 I do recall a very, very small tienda with snacks ...but nothing in May of 2012.

I prefer to walk on to Larrasoana instead of Zubiri...but be prepared. A call ahead to El Peregrino would be a good idea.

 

[tyrrek]

It was after this town that many young pilgrims discarded Brierleys book and took pot luck.
They were very wise.

Yes, it's at this point that you truly discover that Brierley is just teasing you like a child, rather than an adult who has bought the book in good faith thinking it might be a 'guide'. He has obviously decided that to get yourself into his idea of 'pilgrim mode' you should walk 30+ kms over a hill to Roncesvalles then another 27kms just to find somewhere with no food. It's patronising, unnecessary and totally ridiculous. Then he suggests you miss one of the most fantastic cities in Spain (Pamplona) to go onto Cizur Menor. Why?

For him Larrasoanna has a 'popular municipal hostal', while for the rest of us it's one of the worst dumps on the route. 'A warm welcome can be expected'. Hmm. 'Today [the village] continues to welcome pilgrims and provide hospitality in its various hostelries'. And where exactly are they, John? This was the first occasion (after 3 days) when I questioned whether or not the guy had ever been on the Camino. I questioned it constantly thereafter.

I still refer to Brierley's books but take them with a massive pinch of salt. I got his guide to the Camino Finisterre and although the maps were useful (as they are also on the Camino Frances) the topography charts were nothing short of a joke.

You've got me going now, but Buen Camino anyway. Hmph!

 

[Penny71]

We walked St Jean-Finisterre in September-October and I promise this will not be my only post about our camino. We are still travelling and I'll post properly when I have a proper keyboard again. But I have to add my voice to the chorus about Larrasoaña. We arrived there just before the albergue opened, exhausted, on a hot day. We were checked in by an extremely unfriendly man, whose instructions to us were supported by a plethora of signs with various rules. The cleanliness was marginal. I was even more grateful for my hot shower when I realised I was one of the privileged few to enjoy one (no, it was not long!).

We went out to look for the cafe/bar/pension that according to Brierley was the hub of pilgrim life in town. With others who were hoping to stay there, we eventually found it, closed - permanently? The one shop was closed until 5, the one bar until 4. This was the only town we found on the camino where we could not buy food at lunch time. There were vending machines with long-life 'sandwiches' and drinks, for which (according to one of the many signs) the albergue would not provide change.

After the bar opened we had an extremely enjoyable evening with new friends, including a good meal. Meanwhile dozens (at least) of pilgrims who came after the albergue and overflow were full sat in the square outside the bar hoping some accommodation would be found (after all, the town's mayor was, according to the guide, a great friend of pilgrims), which it eventually was. I don't know how many slept on the concrete floor in a hall - many. This was where we first learned how busy this September would be, and it was a shock. Many people also came too late to reserve a place for the pilgrim's meal, which was booked out well in advance.

This, on Day 3, was by far the worst albergue experience on our (wonderful) camino and also shattered our faith in Brierley's guide. And compared with others, we were very very lucky.

If we walked the camino again, we'd stay in Zubiri.

 

[peregrino_tom]

My experience, a Sunday evening in November 2008.
The albergue was the only place open in the village that evening. No bar or shop or anything at all. We got our passports stamped by mother and young daughter early evening in the ayuntamiento (?) and never saw any official again.
A corporate lawyer from Madrid (weekend pilgrim with grey beard and beret which fooled us until his blackberry appeared and he spoke English with a Boston burr) went door to door and charmed several bottles of wine out of the locals for us before taking his taxi back to the working week. We drank in the square with some playful kittens and the local teenagers looked at us with pity. In the albergue, we tipped everything out of our back packs in the kitchen and managed a bit of pasta, bread, tuna, olives, chocolate and tea and all set about getting to know the ones of us we didn't already know. The dorm was cluttered up with packs and no fresh air got in, snoring and all the rest.
Next morning the exhilaration was undiminished. An early challenge had been put in our way and together we'd met it. Is there a moral here? probably not, but out-of-season walking seems to create closer bonds for sharing in adversity and knowing camaraderie...

 

[johnlewis]

Agree with everything that has been written here and can certainly echo a very similar experience Sept 2012. But, have any of us emailed Brierley and let him know our experiences?

P.S. @tyrrek - how annoying was that with the lack of tobacco!?

 

[tyrrek]

P.S. @tyrrek - how annoying was that with the lack of tobacco!?

A German peregrina offered me a Marlboro the next morning. One of the more memorable cigarettes of my life.

 

[wayfarer]

After a dreadful decent into Zubiri on a very very wet saturday in April 2012 we headed towards Larrasoaña on the following Sunday morning, thankfuly when we reached the town we decided to carry on to Trinidad de Arre, but because it was such a beautiful day we actualy reached Pamplona. After having read this thread I am so glad we decided to keep going and if the Gods will it that I can do the Camino again in 2014 I will definately avoid it.

 

[migolito]

I'll add my 2 cents as well. I agree with everything that has been said about the Muni in Larrasoana. The guy checking everyone in was plain rude and not helpful in the least. The actual Albergue was filthy...plain and simple. The floors were unswept and dirty, the bathrooms were unwashed, the tables in the back still had crumbs on them from previous days peregrinos and the 'kitchen' was located outside and was as filthy as the rest of this hole. In short, definitely someplace to avoid.

I will says this about the town. Its a one horse town, which means if you stay there you have just the Muni, the Bar (which may of may not be open) and a small store. The small store is ran by a very nice lady who makes some fantastic homemade pizza and she is the only thing worthwhile.

Its a shame because capitalism is flourishing all along the Camino and the competition obviously is having a good affect for both the locals and the Peregrinos. As far as the guide, its just a guide and can't really be updated annually.

M

 

[tyrrek]

As far as the guide, its just a guide and can't really be updated annually.

It generally is. My guide to the Camino Finisterre is actually the 2013 edition (??!!).

I think it's reasonable to expect that the suggested staging posts in the guide are checked out to make sure that they're still reasonable places to stay if you haven't yet got into Brierley mode and are still hoping to find food and drink etc after a day's walk. It would appear that this village has bucked the trend along the Camino and closed things down rather than opening them up. Zubiri looked fine to me, but I think JB resents it because it has a quarry (shock!) giving people jobs and probably helping to build the roads that he despises until they're used to shift his books around the globe.

Buen Camino!

 

[CaminoJohn]

I have stayed in the municipal albergue in Larrasoana twice...or more properly, the "overflow" down the street tucked into a dirt lot. The reason I stayed twice is that on my first camino I stayed in Zubria at the municipal and found it horrific! The first time in Larrasoana, I slept on the second floor right next to the lovely big windows. This made up for the horrible portable shower/toilets in the yard! The bar, across from the church was wonderful and the staff really helpful and nice. I met the "mayor,who then was quite elderly and his family, and he invited me into his house to see his camino "museum" Totally charming!
The second time in Larrasoana, I stayed in the overflow again and unfortunately had the bed next to the "new" bathroom on the ground floor...this was horrible, but mainly because of the inconsiderate behavior of fellow pilgrims, banging doors and leaving lights on etc...Again the bar was wonderful! I played an intense fun game of spoons with pilgrim buddies at the main albergue! I still have the scars from fighting for the spoons!

 

[tyrrek]

It's a shame because all these Basque towns/villages are so pretty, and as far as I remember Larrasoana is no exception. Maybe they're too expensive for a young entrepreneur to set up a little bar or other pilg-friendly enterprise compared with, say, Castilla.

Buen Camino!

 

[grayland]

It really is amazing that no one has opened an option to the only bar/cafe and badly run albergue.
The one option to eat is the restaurant who takes prepaid reservations from a given time..spaced about 1/2 hour apart. It is served on a big long table and there is a choice of two main dishes. Not pretty or exactly good but probably ok if you are hungry. I don't recall the price but there is no other option. I remember people showing up fairly early in the afternoon and not being able to get on the list as they only take so many each night. This was is early May this year and there were huge numbers of Pilgrims milling around out front. I can't imagine the crowds later in the year.

I did hear rumors from a man at the Pension El Peregrino that the owners of the bar/restaurant/albergue pretty much call all of the shots in town and there is not much chance for someone else to survive.
In 2010 we had dinner at a small place at the start of town but the lady said that she could not get a license for a restaurant from the town council and only had a special permit that allowed food service to pre scheduled "tours" or something like that. She had agreed to feed us on the quiet with the doors locked.

 

[migolito]

There's not much of an incentive in a socialist economic structure to be an entrepreneur, particularly on the scale of small business. What I noticed with most of the private businesses that operate on the Camino was a flourishing black market economy. It seems Larrasoana is governed by a 'town council' that has the authority to regulate business. And regulation is whats happening.

 

[Thornley]

I have previously written [ around 09] that the mayor owns the albergue and had closed down any other place for food etc.
In France the mayor of any village is The Almighty , maybe in Larrasoana as well.
The word will get around about this hole and Brierley must surely realise by now the reputation of this village.
David

 

[LieutCol.Ret.]

Dear Colleagues,

Regarding to Larosoana I can write we stayed there one night in the Municipal Albergue. It took place on May 1, 2012. Nothing special to report about that Albergue. We stayed at the upper floor four men room. I mean two Russian and two Irish pilgrims were billeted in that room with two bunk beds. Albergue was neither very clean nor dirty. It was, let us say, in acceptable conditions. I haven’t heard any complaint from other pilgrims. The Hospitaller was the young local guy about 22 years old. He was very polite and his behavior was very friendly. When there appeared a queue to the upper floor shower room he came upstairs and showed us where two more shower cabins were at the ground floor.

The only restaurant in Larosoana was the “Casa Salgada”. Standard pilgrim’s dinner was available there for 10 euros per person. Dinner included a plenty of delicious food with the local wine and mineral water. I have nothing to complain about that restaurant.

I confirm that local small shop is the place where you can buy additional food, wine, beer and other goods. The old lady in that shop is very friendly.

So, I believe there are no good and bad places, countries, nations and religions. There are only good and bad individuals in this World. Everything depends on particular person. We were lucky enough and met only good people in Larosoana.

Sincerely,
Oleg

 

[McAleerSherry]

quote="LieutCol.Ret."]Dear Colleagues,

Regarding to Larosoana I can write we stayed there one night in the Municipal Albergue. It took place on May 1, 2012. Nothing special to report about that Albergue. We stayed at the upper floor four men room. I mean two Russian and two Irish pilgrims were billeted in that room with two bunk beds. Albergue was neither very clean nor dirty. It was, let us say, in acceptable conditions. I haven’t heard any complaint from other pilgrims. The Hospitaller was the young local guy about 22 years old. He was very polite and his behavior was very friendly. When there appeared a queue to the upper floor shower room he came upstairs and showed us where two more shower cabins were at the ground floor.

It is good to hear someone had a good experience at the beginning of the season. We tried the alberque on 26 May 2008. The dread "senora attitude" stamping passports, however, turned us off as did the sight of the overflow and absence of food in the village as the bar was closed on Luneses. Talking to Frenchman we had walked with in France, we tried one of the two pensions in town, to the right as you crossed the bridge. He put us up nicely, did laundry for us, and sold us food that we could prepare in the kitchen.

We had thought of going on to Trinidad d'Arre, but did not feel that we had another eleven kilometers in us on what had been a rainy day. Consequently, glad we did not stop in Zubiri, but also add our voices to those cautioning. :arrow:

 

[elzi]

From what I understand from talking to other pilgrims Larrasoaña seems to be a hot spot for overcrowding. Maybe it is wise not to plan to stop there.
However my understanding is that the municipal albergue in Zubiri is not particularly nice either. I stayed in a private albergue in Zubiri which was fine but it was some years ago now...
I've given up taking a guidebook on the Frances. The albergue/food situation is constantly changing. I generally take just the Brierley Maps book now to give me an idea of terrain and distances.
I walked this September with the 2013 edition and it was already out of date with regard to the facilities available. In terms of albergues, rather than using a guide I would say take a look round and go on instinct, all kinds of changes (good and bad) may have taken place since the book was written!

 

[methodist.pilgrim.98]

In 1998 the bar at the end of the village first opened, there was no albergue. I stopped in Zubiri and was fine. Ditto 2004. Not been back on this stretch since but will share the following.

This November I met a peregrina who arrived at L after walking from Zubiri. She offered the following without any prompting.

She was injured and was walking slowly. She arrived about 11.00am and was spotted by the male warden. He didn't come out to speak to her. At 3.00pm he looked at her credential and said, you have not walked far enough I could make you walk on. His attitiude was hostile and unhelpful. He did, in fact, let her in.

The peregrina said to me.

At 1100 why didn't he check on me when it was obvious I was going no further today?

If he had an issue as to how far I'd walked why did he raise it and then let me stay anyway? Having decided to let me stay he had no need to mention the matter.

Why did he try to make me feel so small?

The peregrina is taking two months to walk the Camino and this incident happened over a month ago but it still clearly rankles and she was still upset about it.

If John Brierley were a friend of mine I would tell him that with the Internet being such a powerful tool that his hard won reputuation is in danger of going up in flames.

I hope to write some updates for the CSJ guide and I will pass the above comments from the peregrina on.

If nobody stops in the village then maybe the townsfolk will decide a new mayor would be the simplest solution.

 

[tendigrino]

In Larrasoaña not want pilgrims, This happened throughout the Camino de Santiago in the 80s. When a pilgrim was treated like a tramp. And just in Cizur Maribel Roncal, Felisa before Logroño, and Jato in Villafranca, staying Pilgrims. Zubiri stay inside. "Palo de avellano " "Zaldico". Restaurants, Shops.
Buen Camino to Santiago.
Ultreya.

 

[rickster]

Had much the same experience as Camino John. Had top bunk on first floor of overflow next to showers. Definitely nothing open on Sunday in late May. I did not have any problem with staff, just the town and lack of facilities. If you have options, this is definitely a town worth passing through.

 

[billmclaughlin]

Brierley recommends Larrasoaña and calls Zubiri “an industrial town.” He has also hiked the Camino with his buddy, the mayor of Larrasoaña. Enough said.

By which I mean to say...don't get me started on Brierly. One day a group of us with Bierly guides laughed long and loud as we read from his guide our favorite nonsense passages.

I know he has his fans, but his treatment of Larrasoaña and Zubiri should be fair warning to all.

 

[dutchpilgrim]

Well, there is a friendly restaurant some 800 m back towards Zubiri on the motorway.
Be aware tough, no lightning on the road, so take a flashlight to get safely back to the albergue.

Ultreya,
Carli.

 

[Olivares]

I had my credential stamped at Zubiri's El Palo del Avellano by one of the nicest locals I came across while walking the Camino. Then, I went on to have one of the best meals at Zubiri's Hostal Gau Txori. I don't feel I missed anything by favoring Zubiri, specially when reading frequent bad reviews on Larrasoaña.

Honestly, the fact that Brierley recommends Cizur Menor over Pamplona and Larrasoaña over Zubiri mades me leary of any other recommendation. Unlike the hordes of many other pilgrims, I am not in any hurry to BUY his book(s). At this point, so many people are citing Brierley that it seems every other pilgrimage out there is a "cookie cutter" sample of Brierley's opinions and likes. It is great to have practical information and thanks to Brierley for that. It is another story, however, to try to define the pilgrimage experience for everybody. No, I would not avoid industrial towns-- as an engineer I want to document the impacts of industrialization on the Camino-- oooppps!.....according to Brierley I just screwed up my Camino experience....pleasssseee. :roll:

 

[marji]

Agree with this indignant posts. Had a few chuckles of remembrances too..
I walked last year in Summer. The last two days walking were fabulous (clear and sunny o'er the Pyrenees) and I arrived in Zubiri with a little zest and decided to walk to Larrasoana (plus Zubiri was getting crowded). Yes the greeting was not so friendly and the albergue was very basic. I do recall feeling thankful to have a bed though. The river was lovely and cool, cool, cool for swollen feet and the village did have charm. I bought some fruit at the teeny store; two euro a piece or something over the top especially for pilgrims! The bar was open for a meal (phew). Yes, it was an "experience"....