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List public Albergues Central route/starting in Lisbon

Tinkelbel

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
14th of August 2023
Hi there,
I am a 35 year old woman and on mid August I am going to walk my first camino, starting in Lisbon.

For the first night I booked a bed in a private hostel in the city center. I have been looking for a list with the public Albergues but I couldn't find it. It is useful for me to have since I do no have a strong back and therefore will be able to walk less km per day than the average walker.
Does anyone have tips for me?

Also, I downloaded the route I need to walk on Organic maps. I was wondering what app you have been using?
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
For the first night I booked a bed in a private hostel in the city center. I have been looking for a list with the public Albergues but I couldn't find it. It is useful for me to have since I do no have a strong back and therefore will be able to walk less km per day than the average walker.
Does anyone have tips for me?
Gronze is a good source of information

The section between Lisbon and Porto is not as well serviced by albergues as the section from Porto onwards; and the large majority of accommodations are private
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I STRONGLY suggest that you look at the route and where the hostels are located before starting your camino. You’ll find that (measured from the church starting point) the first day is a minimum distance of 32 km. There are simply no hostels at all, let alone available, before Alverca do Ribatejo (contrary to Mr. Brierley’s guide, the albergue in Alpriate has been closed for 2 years). The next day is either stopping at 10 km in Villa Franca De Xira, or the full distance of 30km to Azambuja. Day 3 is a min 25km to Azinhaga. Etc., etc., etc. (There is a section between Porto de Muge -Santarem that is 12km of NO services/shade - you must carry extra water!)

You can use the hedge-hopping strategy of walking the distance you are comfortable with each day, stopping and taking transportation (taxi/train) to the next available lodging and then transport back to your previous days stopping point to begin the next day…rinse, repeat. I find this to be a p-i-t-a and disrupts the continuity and peace of the Camino.

It would also be advisable to look at the available food locations, as they are also scarce during the first few days out of Lisbon. Many days, I needed to buy food from a market and carry it for the following morning...which means you can forget about a morning coffee 😩.

Finally, if you begin in mid-Aug, it will be VERY, VERY HOT (> 100°F / 38°- 40°C) . You’ll need to carry lots of extra water, which means extra weight. You mentioned a weak back - As this is your first Camino, I would hope that you are physically prepared and have trained adequately to make this a successful adventure.

I just completed the central route (Lisbon-Santiago) in May. I use Wise Pilgrim (the free version) / Gronze / Brierley’s book. It can be done, but requires much more planning than just an albergue list.

Bom Caminho!
 
Now that I've been in small-town Portugal a while, I have a bit more sense of what kind of small hotels are available, that might not be obvious to the tourist because they're aimed at a different clientele--typically Portuguese workers who travel a lot.

Looking at the map out of Lisboa and considering the new route that will be fully operational in a few weeks, the obvious challenge is that the walk is along the river (good), but through an area with few facilities because it's the factory/transportation hub for Lisbon, and isolated from most of the towns by the railway tracks with not that many crossings. That means it's difficult to get to any of the small towns where there might be affordable lodgings, in this stretch.

Looking at Google Maps, I see Residencial Mira Tejo about 8 km north of the Plaza of Nations (Oriente railway station). It looks like a truck stop, but clean and relatively reasonable for a private room. They have 3-bed rooms (in any Portuguese hotel, ask for a "family" room and you're likely to get 3 beds.)

For a truck stop, it looks quite pleasant and the food looks good. Not that long a detour from the riverfront and on one of the few roads that crosses the rail yards

I haven't seen it mentioned and looked it up in "search" to find nothing. Its Google reviews are almost entirely Portuguese. Doesn't sound as if it's much used by peregrinos.

Is it useful?


(I suspect give it a couple of years, and people along the way will realize there's a need for traveller beds along this route, but it will be challenging in the meantime. The thread discussing John Brierley's long-term vision for the area reinforces this.)

Bom caminho!
 
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For those who want to walk from the cathedral, and don't mind the cost/diversion, VIP Executive Santa Iria Hotel was a pleasant stay at a reasonable distance (Lidl next to it). The diversion to the hotel and back to the route wasn't ideal. If I were doing it again, I'd start my day at the Oriente train station (next to Parques das Nacoes which is a pleasant place to spend a little time)
 
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I just walked this way, leaving Lisbon on 17 May. That first night I stayed in Good Night hostel in Lisbon. Expensive but I loved it.

1). Barely 10 km down the way I knocked on the door of HI Parque das Nações, a Pousada de Juventude but it was full. It was in downtown Lisbon conveniently located to the Camino. And I really didn’t want to have a long day that day. I wish I would’ve made reservations there to break up the trip.

2). Some 20 km along, I knocked on the door of Hospedaria Alpha 10, in Alverca do Ribatejo, but it was full.

3) At that point I called an Uber to take me about 8 km down the way to Hostel DP, Rua Antonio Palha, 2 in Vila França de Xira. I stayed there the first night, it was lovely, I met other pilgrims, and at that point, I decided not to give up :)

4). The next night was in Azambuja at the pilgrims hostel. The hospitalero was very nice, and I met nice people there. It was a very typical public hostel. I believe they do not take reservations.

5). My favorite hostel along the way was in Valada. Albergue Dois Caminhos 915657651. It was at Enrico’s house, and he is an amazing cook, and he is so so nice. I will never forget that place!

6). The next night was a hostel in Santarem, called Villa Graça. It was one of those hostel with curtains on the bunks. I love curtains on the bunk, even better than my own hotel room!

That should get you started. Some of these you will find on the Buen Camino app and some are available on Booking.com. That was the hard part. After a while I got in the habit of booking a night ahead, either by calling ahead or using Booking.com. After Porto, everything changed, and there were no problems. And the way almost seemed a little bit too crowded.

The important thing is to book HI Parque das Nações - Pousada de Juventude, available on Booking.com, to break up that first day.
 
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Thank you so much for your experiences. It was very helpful. I eventually decided to skip the first part and start when there are more hostels available. Jrewins thank you for your concerns, I AM physically prepared though and am used to the heat due to the fact that I have been living in Portugal for several years.
 
Thank you so much for your experiences. It was very helpful. I eventually decided to skip the first part and start when there are more hostels available. Jrewins thank you for your concerns, I AM physically prepared though and am used to the heat due to the fact that I have been living in Portugal for several years.
I’m sorry to hear that you changed your mind. I just completed this a couple of weeks ago. I am 69 years old and I carry a heavy backpack. I figure if I could do it anybody could do it. I think the list of hostels that I detailed in my earlier message would make it easier. The only problem I see is the need to book ahead.

I hope you have something else planned instead.
 
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Hi there,
I am a 35 year old woman and on mid August I am going to walk my first camino, starting in Lisbon.

For the first night I booked a bed in a private hostel in the city center. I have been looking for a list with the public Albergues but I couldn't find it. It is useful for me to have since I do no have a strong back and therefore will be able to walk less km per day than the average walker.
Does anyone have tips for me?

Also, I downloaded the route I need to walk on Organic maps. I was wondering what app you have been using?
I started in Lisbon which was a fascinating city & harbor, but walking from there to Porto was on long stretches of roadway with little room between me & the vehicles & the exhaust smell was way too much. I met a pilgrim from Angola at Alive hostel & her friends told her to start in Porto. Wish I had known, because I had already bought a train ticket from Porto to Leon to catch the Camino there to Santiago, having done the Camino Frances 3 years earlier & knew what to expect, much friendlier & more resources & albergues. I only met 2 other women from California starting Portuguese Way in Lisbon. It took forever to get out of that city. People in smaller towns were not friendly, looked at me like I was a hobo. Only if someone had traveled $ spoke English did they engage in conversation. A lot of apprehension union Porto. I did stay at an excellent hostel in Lisbon called Lisbon Old Town Hostel run by a father & son. I would stay there again.
 
I’m sorry to hear that you changed your mind. I just completed this a couple of weeks ago. I am 69 years old and I carry a heavy backpack. I figure if I could do it anybody could do it. I think the list of hostels that I detailed in my earlier message would make it easier. The only problem I see is the need to book ahead.

I hope you have something else planned instead.
Hi Pippi, Thank you so much for sharing your story. no need to feel sorry. I did a bit of research based on the lists of hostels/albergues and also took in consideration the prices and that there were less options (The Pousada Youth hostel was already fully booked until mid August) I eventually decided to make my start at the Vila Graca hostel in Santarem, the day after my arrival in Lisbon.
 
Messing around with GoogleMaps and using "search" on the forum, here, I also came across this quite new hostel in a dis-used railway station just past Vila Franca da Xira (on the far end of town). It might be a useful option as well in the under-served "south end of the Tejo" part of the caminho. If I remember correctly, there's still what looks like a railway stop here, but perhaps it isn't used anymore.

It looks nice, and gets quite good reviews.

Café across the street open from 7 am to midnight, except Sundays.


Edit: Just checked Gronze, and it's listed, but no comments. I think it's quite new.
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I STRONGLY suggest that you look at the route and where the hostels are located before starting your camino. You’ll find that (measured from the church starting point) the first day is a minimum distance of 32 km. There are simply no hostels at all, let alone available, before Alverca do Ribatejo (contrary to Mr. Brierley’s guide, the albergue in Alpriate has been closed for 2 years). The next day is either stopping at 10 km in Villa Franca De Xira, or the full distance of 30km to Azambuja. Day 3 is a min 25km to Azinhaga. Etc., etc., etc. (There is a section between Porto de Muge -Santarem that is 12km of NO services/shade - you must carry extra water!)

You can use the hedge-hopping strategy of walking the distance you are comfortable with each day, stopping and taking transportation (taxi/train) to the next available lodging and then transport back to your previous days stopping point to begin the next day…rinse, repeat. I find this to be a p-i-t-a and disrupts the continuity and peace of the Camino.

It would also be advisable to look at the available food locations, as they are also scarce during the first few days out of Lisbon. Many days, I needed to buy food from a market and carry it for the following morning...which means you can forget about a morning coffee 😩.

Finally, if you begin in mid-Aug, it will be VERY, VERY HOT (> 100°F / 38°- 40°C) . You’ll need to carry lots of extra water, which means extra weight. You mentioned a weak back - As this is your first Camino, I would hope that you are physically prepared and have trained adequately to make this a successful adventure.

I just completed the central route (Lisbon-Santiago) in May. I use Wise Pilgrim (the free version) / Gronze / Brierley’s book. It can be done, but requires much more planning than just an albergue list.

Bom Caminho!
I am grateful for your words of wisdom🙏
 
I am grateful for your words of wisdom🙏
It’s important for peregrinos who start in Lisbon to realize that the route out of Lisbon changed dramatically last year. Comments about the 30 km first day to Alverca are no longer accurate.

With the new boardwalk, it’s now 25 km from Lisbon cathedral to Alverca, where there are several places within 1-2 km of the caminho. If that’s too long of a first day, it’s easy to stop in Parque das Naçoes, 7 km from the cathedral, to make that second day a good bit shorter. Parque das Naçoes is a fun place to spend some time - nice river walk, a great Aquarium, a teleférico to ride, lots of playgrounds, cafés, etc.

Other pilgrims have broken up the first day by stopping in the VIP hotels (see post #6). Friend from Barquinha suggested Residencial MiraTejo, which is also in Santa Iria and probably a bit cheaper. The town is about 8 km north of Parque Naçoes, which would give you a 15km day from the cathedral.

Though all those small towns on the way out of Lisbon are now home for many commuters, they still have enough of their small town charm, with small restaurants-cafés, small shops, some squares with a church, etc.
 
At the risk of being argumentative, Tinkelbel inquired about Albergues…not €100+ / night hotels that are 5-8 km off of the published Camino route. Yes, there are hotels, apartments, etc., along the northern exit routes out of Lisbon, BUT, there are no Albergues until Alverca do Ribatejo, unless some have been built since I was there in April 2023.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Just another heads up if you are using the boardwalks. Once on you cant get off**until Povoa or Alverca.

Parque das Naçoes to Povoa is 8 miles. The next section to Alverca is 3.2 miles. There are no facilities and no shade so take water and food before you get onto the walkway.

** There are 'escape' routes but this means climbing over the fence.
 

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At the risk of being argumentative,
I certainly don’t think you’re being argumentative - the important thing is to get the correct info out there. The main point I wanted to make was that it’s not 32 km to Alverca from Lisbon anymore. It’s 25, which makes for a much more manageable first day.

With Alpriate’s albergue closed and the new route that doesn’t go through Alpriate, you’re right the albergue-only pilgrim does indeed have a challenge. But so many new places have opened since I walked from Lisbon in 2004 that make the days so much more manageable. But you’re right about cost, though I think it’s possible to find 20-30 € places in many of those stages before the albergues “kick in.”

there are no Albergues until Alverca do Ribatejo

Alverca do Ribatejo was not on the caminho from Lisbon until the re-routing of the walk from Parque Naçoes. Gronze doesn’t show an albergue there (but they list a couple of low-cost private places) — do you have info on it? A little googling doesn’t bring anything up. I would let Gronze know because they are quite good about updating their information.
 
It’s important for peregrinos who start in Lisbon to realize that the route out of Lisbon changed dramatically last year. Comments about the 30 km first day to Alverca are no longer accurate.

With the new boardwalk, it’s now 25 km from Lisbon cathedral to Alverca, where there are several places within 1-2 km of the caminho. If that’s too long of a first day, it’s easy to stop in Parque das Naçoes, 7 km from the cathedral, to make that second day a good bit shorter. Parque das Naçoes is a fun place to spend some time - nice river walk, a great Aquarium, a teleférico to ride, lots of playgrounds, cafés, etc.

Other pilgrims have broken up the first day by stopping in the VIP hotels (see post #6). Friend from Barquinha suggested Residencial MiraTejo, which is also in Santa Iria and probably a bit cheaper. The town is about 8 km north of Parque Naçoes, which would give you a 15km day from the cathedral.

Though all those small towns on the way out of Lisbon are now home for many commuters, they still have enough of their small town charm, with small restaurants-cafés, small shops, some squares with a church, etc.
Wonderful information thank you, I am starting in April 2024 from Lisbon with 2 other ladies from Australia and this was welcoming and useful information. thank you,
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

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