LIVE from the Camino My Camino Portugues - Central: Starting in Porto

[LuisaR]

Today is Day 0 of my Camino Portuguese - Central, starting in Porto.

I arrived in Porto from London yesterday afternoon. An easy journey from my home in North London to the airport, a not so pleasant few hours in Gatwick, a smooth flight over on TAP Air Portugal, and an easy journey into the centre of Porto on the metro.

I’m staying in a B&B in town, Linha 22, which has a few rooms above a wine bar. My room is tiny, but I love it - there is a walk in shower directly next to my bed, slightly elevated from the floor which is a brilliant space-saving design quirk which I’ve never seen before.

I have had a day in Porto today to enjoy the sites and to prepare for tomorrow - Day 1 of my Camino.

Last year I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago and it was magical. I wrote about it on this forum but as I was writing it about 12 days retrospectively, I made it to Santiago but my Camino blog musings didn’t! This time, I am going to try my best to provide daily updates on here.

I am walking this Camino solo, but as I am going on a holiday with a friend after Santiago, I felt it was necessary to bring a separate holiday suitcase, alongside my Camino rucksack.

My suitcase was picked up today by TuiTrans and will be delivered to Santiago in a couple of weeks time - I can’t rate this company highly enough - their communication and efficiency have been incredible.

I’ve made a few adjustments to my packing since my last Camino: I have the same Osprey rucksack, bought in Bayonne, 24 hours before my last Camino, and wearing my trusted Teva sandals, bought in Pamplona after suffering from painful blisters for the previous 2 days.

I have upgraded my walking sticks so they have better hand straps - the ones I took last year kept coming undone and it drove me mad!

I have bought a lighter battery pack to charge my phone, and I am going to risk the weight of carrying a book. I really missed having a book to read last year, so I am going to suffer the extra weight - I’ll probably finish it in a few days so the weight will soon be gone. I have bought a smaller water pack - 1.5l instead of 2l -I rarely needed anymore on the Camino Frances last year - and these were on particularly tough days - when crossing the Pyrenees (and that was only because I didn’t top up at Orisson) and when I decided to take an alternative route and walked along a deserted Roman Road for about four hours at Calzada de Los Hermanillos.

In Porto today, I have had my credential stamped by a very surly lady in Porto Cathedral, and then I followed the Camino route from the Cathedral into town; I soon found myself a few meters away from my hotel. I can set off tomorrow and be on route in a just a couple of minutes.

I wandered around the city, and have eaten a pastel de Nata, and had a Bolinhos de bacalhau with a glass of port. Later on, I’m going on a walking tour to make sure I have covered the main sites.

I have a good basic level of Spanish and wrongly thought that Portuguese wasn’t much different - it looks quite similar on paper, but have been surprised at how different it sounds!

As per last year, I haven’t done any training for this Camino, but unlike last year, instead of launching into some serious mountain hiking on Day 1, I will be taking it slowly and easy for the first couple of days. I need to acclimatise to the weather (which fortunately is only mid 20’s), the weight of my pack, and of course, the walking! I have plenty of time and in no rush, so will build on the distances as I go.

Tchau por enquanto, peregrinos!

 

[backlasher]

Good luck and have fun. Looking forward to updates.

 

[natcire]

Please share your experience on the Camino Portuguese. Bom Caminho.

 

[peregrina2000]

Today is Day 0 of my Camino Portuguese - Central, starting in Porto.

So glad to see another live thread starting up just as some are currently finishing up! @LuisaR, just a quick request that you put all of your posts from this live camino in this same thread (you (or we)can change the title for you if you want). It makes it so much easier for others to follow you, and it also makes a nice document for future pilgrims to be able to look back and see your day-by-day.

Bom caminho to you! Laurie

 

[Vacajoe]

Great reporting, but I must take exception to one thing: how can you NOT have had a fabulous time waiting for hours at Gatwick?!?!!

 

[Paul Young]

I am hoping to go on the Portuguese in September or October 2023 so looking forward to reading your updates. Buen Camino

 

[josetrevino]

Today is Day 0 of my Camino Portuguese - Central, starting in Porto.

I arrived in Porto from London yesterday afternoon. An easy journey from my home in North London to the airport, a not so pleasant few hours in Gatwick, a smooth flight over on TAP Air Portugal, and an easy journey into the centre of Porto on the metro.

I’m staying in a B&B in town, Linha 22, which has a few rooms above a wine bar. My room is tiny, but I love it - there is a walk in shower directly next to my bed, slightly elevated from the floor which is a brilliant space-saving design quirk which I’ve never seen before.

I have had a day in Porto today to enjoy the sites and to prepare for tomorrow - Day 1 of my Camino.

Last year I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago and it was magical. I wrote about it on this forum but as I was writing it about 12 days retrospectively, I made it to Santiago but my Camino blog musings didn’t! This time, I am going to try my best to provide daily updates on here.

I am walking this Camino solo, but as I am going on a holiday with a friend after Santiago, I felt it was necessary to bring a separate holiday suitcase, alongside my Camino rucksack.

My suitcase was picked up today by TuiTrans and will be delivered to Santiago in a couple of weeks time - I can’t rate this company highly enough - their communication and efficiency have been incredible.

I’ve made a few adjustments to my packing since my last Camino: I have the same Osprey rucksack, bought in Bayonne, 24 hours before my last Camino, and wearing my trusted Teva sandals, bought in Pamplona after suffering from painful blisters for the previous 2 days.

I have upgraded my walking sticks so they have better hand straps - the ones I took last year kept coming undone and it drove me mad!

I have bought a lighter battery pack to charge my phone, and I am going to risk the weight of carrying a book. I really missed having a book to read last year, so I am going to suffer the extra weight - I’ll probably finish it in a few days so the weight will soon be gone. I have bought a smaller water pack - 1.5l instead of 2l -I rarely needed anymore on the Camino Frances last year - and these were on particularly tough days - when crossing the Pyrenees (and that was only because I didn’t top up at Orisson) and when I decided to take an alternative route and walked along a deserted Roman Road for about four hours at Calzada de Los Hermanillos.

In Porto today, I have had my credential stamped by a very surly lady in Porto Cathedral, and then I followed the Camino route from the Cathedral into town; I soon found myself a few meters away from my hotel. I can set off tomorrow and be on route in a just a couple of minutes.

I wandered around the city, and have eaten a pastel de Nata, and had a Bolinhos de bacalhau with a glass of port. Later on, I’m going on a walking tour to make sure I have covered the main sites.

I have a good basic level of Spanish and wrongly thought that Portuguese wasn’t much different - it looks quite similar on paper, but have been surprised at how different it sounds!

As per last year, I haven’t done any training for this Camino, but unlike last year, instead of launching into some serious mountain hiking on Day 1, I will be taking it slowly and easy for the first couple of days. I need to acclimatise to the weather (which fortunately is only mid 20’s), the weight of my pack, and of course, the walking! I have plenty of time and in no rush, so will build on the distances as I go.

Tchau por enquanto, peregrinos!

just returned from the portugese,,, be sure to take lots of water,, it is a beautiful camino,,, you will greatly enjoy it,,, drink one bottle of water every two or three miles... buen camino

 

[Becky 59]

Following with interest, I'll be there in 6 weeks! Bom Camhino

 

[Rita Flower]

Thanks for sharing.
I will follow your journey. I loved Porto. It’s a beautiful Camino.
There is a fabulous albergue about 8 Km out of Santiago. I stopped there instead of ‘hurrying on’ with the rest of the excited pilgrims. I walked alone at dawn the next day, into Santiago. So peaceful and quiet. A great option if you love solo walking. And for me a highlight Camino experience.
Blessings and Buen Camino.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 1:
Today has been a wonderful surprise, as my plan to slowly edge my way out of Porto to build up my walking confidence and strength, and also to check all my gear is in working order went completely out of the window!
I left Porto at midday and without any breakfast, as I was planning to make an early stop in Araujo - only around 9km away.
I walked so slowly out of Porto which I really enjoyed - I remember on the CF last year leaving big towns while it was still dark, walking so quickly to make sure I got the km’s in to avoid the midday heat.
It was cool and cloudy today, so perfect walking weather. My sandals felt good and my bag light.
I have read extensively how unenjoyable the walk out of Porto is - it’s not particularly pleasant, but my Camino experience has taught me, you take the rough with the smooth! I walked through lots of urban areas, and the only bit of nature I spotted was a rat running out of a derelict building!
There are some dodgy parts on very busy roads, and I had one hairy moment on a road without a proper sidewalk, with a massive lorry hurtling towards me…
So I reached my planned destination, Araujo, and I just knew I didn’t want to spend the first night of my Camino there. It was a small town on a main road, and the hostel wasn’t open for another hour. Depsite my lack of breakfast and lunch, I had plenty of energy left, so just carried on.
The scenery didn’t get much better until about 15km after Porto, and I felt like I was out of the industrial suburbs.
I am now in Moistero, 18.3km out of Porto, and in the most wonderful hostel: Casa Dos Caminhos. The owner is so kind and friendly, and when I told her I hadn’t eaten yet that day, she made me a delicious sandwich and a huge glass of iced tea.
The hostel is clean, cosy and like a family home (see photo of the living room!). Isabel is making dinner tonight - apparently she is full, but so far there is only one other here - a Czech Peregrina.

 

[natcire]

Thank you very much for sharing your first day on the Portuguese

 

[Rita Flower]

Glad your first day was a success even though it did not go as planned.
Love that lounge area. How was dinner?

 

[Mary Doll]

I stayed there on 23 May this year. I loved it. Isabel is a great hostess and cooked a wonderful dinner and sent us off in the morning after a good breakfast. The walk out of Porto is not great but not as bad as I expected. A couple of pilgrims who stayed there had walked from the airport.
Bom caminho.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 2:
Today I have walked from Mosteiro to Vilarinho - a mild 8.4km!
I had a such a lovely stay at Casa dos Caminhos last night, and highly recommend it as a first stop out of Porto. Isabel made me a delightful dinner of vegetable soup and vegetable lasagne, along with some homemade lemonade. She was so warm and friendly, and one of the best Camino hostel experiences I have had to date. The hostel isn’t only for pilgrims: as it’s close to Porto airport, there were a few people staying there to easily catch an early morning flight.
I chatted to some people who were staying there, all be it quite briefly. The Czech lady I shared the room with was very sweet and kind.

I am quite amazed that I did not see one pilgrim on my walk today. I left Mosteiro at around 10.45am, and thought that I might see some pilgrim traffic coming from Porto, but not a soul!
Although I often prefer to walk alone, I have realised today that I do find it more reassuring when I see the odd person here and there. I felt quite nervous when I set off from Moisteiro today - I’m not sure why - and I think I would have felt better if I’d seen a pilgrim or two!
I feel in pretty good shape, apart from the backs of my legs are sunburnt - schoolgirl error! This is from my walk out of Porto, so I smothered them in suncream today, but having been exposed to the sun for a couple of hours again today, they are feeling a little sore!

The walk was fairly easy and I enjoyed the tranquility of some of the villages, but again, a few hairy moments on roads and no sidewalks - I had to do some very fast walking on occasion to get myself safely off some dangerous stretches.

I didn’t stop today - nowhere looked massively appealing, and the Portuguese villages are incredibly quiet. I passed a couple of churches which enjoyed looking at (excuse the rubbish photos!).

I am now in Casa de Laura which is very pleasant, but not a patch on last nights accommodation. I have had some lunch in the restaurant next door, and will probably be back there again for my dinner.
I am sharing a room with a Spanish couple and a Portuguese lady - we haven’t struck up conversation yet, but let’s see how the afternoon and evening unfold….

 

[J11]

Hello!

Well done, this sounds great.

I'm going to be starting from Ponte de Lima on 3 August. Do you think a sleeping bag liner will be enough, or should I bring a sleeping bag? Might lightest one is +7 Celsius so still quite warm. I'm usually quite a cold person but I'm guessing the hostels stay pretty warm at night, and I can wear jumpers if needed....?

I guess you can tell me when you get to that part!

Thank you

 

[LuisaR]

Hello!

Well done, this sounds great.

I'm going to be starting from Ponte de Lima on 3 August. Do you think a sleeping bag liner will be enough, or should I bring a sleeping bag? Might lightest one is +7 Celsius so still quite warm. I'm usually quite a cold person but I'm guessing the hostels stay pretty warm at night, and I can wear jumpers if needed....?

I guess you can tell me when you get to that part!

Thank you

I’ll let you know - so far I’ve been fine with just shorts, t-shirt and a jumper. It’s still very early days, but all accommodation so far have had blankets.
Although it’s sunny, it’s also quite windy, and I have thought about whether I should’ve hung on to my leggings (they are currently in a suitcase, next to be seen in Santiago). I’ll keep an eye on the weather forecast, but may end up buying some when I hit a town with a cheap clothes shop….

 

[J11]

I’ll let you know - so far I’ve been fine with just shorts, t-shirt and a jumper. It’s still very early days, but all accommodation so far have had blankets.
Although it’s sunny, it’s also quite windy, and I have thought about whether I should’ve hung on to my leggings (they are currently in a suitcase, next to be seen in Santiago). I’ll keep an eye on the weather forecast, but may end up buying some when I hit a town with a cheap clothes shop….

Thanks!

 

[DBC]

Today is Day 0 of my Camino Portuguese - Central, starting in Porto.

I arrived in Porto from London yesterday afternoon. An easy journey from my home in North London to the airport, a not so pleasant few hours in Gatwick, a smooth flight over on TAP Air Portugal, and an easy journey into the centre of Porto on the metro.

I’m staying in a B&B in town, Linha 22, which has a few rooms above a wine bar. My room is tiny, but I love it - there is a walk in shower directly next to my bed, slightly elevated from the floor which is a brilliant space-saving design quirk which I’ve never seen before.

I have had a day in Porto today to enjoy the sites and to prepare for tomorrow - Day 1 of my Camino.

Last year I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago and it was magical. I wrote about it on this forum but as I was writing it about 12 days retrospectively, I made it to Santiago but my Camino blog musings didn’t! This time, I am going to try my best to provide daily updates on here.

I am walking this Camino solo, but as I am going on a holiday with a friend after Santiago, I felt it was necessary to bring a separate holiday suitcase, alongside my Camino rucksack.

My suitcase was picked up today by TuiTrans and will be delivered to Santiago in a couple of weeks time - I can’t rate this company highly enough - their communication and efficiency have been incredible.

I’ve made a few adjustments to my packing since my last Camino: I have the same Osprey rucksack, bought in Bayonne, 24 hours before my last Camino, and wearing my trusted Teva sandals, bought in Pamplona after suffering from painful blisters for the previous 2 days.

I have upgraded my walking sticks so they have better hand straps - the ones I took last year kept coming undone and it drove me mad!

I have bought a lighter battery pack to charge my phone, and I am going to risk the weight of carrying a book. I really missed having a book to read last year, so I am going to suffer the extra weight - I’ll probably finish it in a few days so the weight will soon be gone. I have bought a smaller water pack - 1.5l instead of 2l -I rarely needed anymore on the Camino Frances last year - and these were on particularly tough days - when crossing the Pyrenees (and that was only because I didn’t top up at Orisson) and when I decided to take an alternative route and walked along a deserted Roman Road for about four hours at Calzada de Los Hermanillos.

In Porto today, I have had my credential stamped by a very surly lady in Porto Cathedral, and then I followed the Camino route from the Cathedral into town; I soon found myself a few meters away from my hotel. I can set off tomorrow and be on route in a just a couple of minutes.

I wandered around the city, and have eaten a pastel de Nata, and had a Bolinhos de bacalhau with a glass of port. Later on, I’m going on a walking tour to make sure I have covered the main sites.

I have a good basic level of Spanish and wrongly thought that Portuguese wasn’t much different - it looks quite similar on paper, but have been surprised at how different it sounds!

As per last year, I haven’t done any training for this Camino, but unlike last year, instead of launching into some serious mountain hiking on Day 1, I will be taking it slowly and easy for the first couple of days. I need to acclimatise to the weather (which fortunately is only mid 20’s), the weight of my pack, and of course, the walking! I have plenty of time and in no rush, so will build on the distances as I go.

Tchau por enquanto, peregrinos!

Planning to walk this route from Porto in spring 2024 so your daily updates will be very helpful. I also did the Frances in Spring 2022. Enjoy!

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 3: Vilarinho to São Pedro de Rates - 11.4km

I’ve had such a brilliant 24 hours!
I went through a tricky few hours yesterday afternoon: I hadn’t seen anyone all day on my Camino, which as I said yesterday, I find a little unnerving - I feel more relaxed knowing that I am not a solo female pilgrim walking through forests and desolate areas with literally nobody around. Combined with this, even after a few hours at Casa da Laura (my accommodation for day 2), nobody was speaking to each other! It was really strange, and despite me saying ‘hello’ and smiling at people, everyone just kept themselves to themselves, and we all sat in the windy but sunny garden in silence.
I was feeling a bit down and gave myself a bit of a talking to, as I started to wonder whether this would be my existence for the next two weeks. I told myself that maybe I would meet some people along the way to chat to here and there (I’m not looking for life long friends, just a bit of occasional conversation!) and needed to be thankful for the situation I was in - perhaps being completely alone was something that needed to happen so I had time and space to do some soul searching.
Anyway, whilst I was giving myself this silent talking to, my brother video called me, which very rarely happens, and I got to speak to my very young niece who I absolutely adore; I was so happy to hear from them, especially in that moment!
As I was finishing up the call, the owner of the Casa da Laura invited me to sit at a table with lots of other guests who were staying in their property opposite, to have a port and biscuits.
I sat with them and we hit it off immediately - they are a family of 6 from the USA and I immediately felt relaxed and sociable in their company. We chatted for ages, and then they invited me to join them at a restaurant for dinner, which, given how well we were getting on, I happily accepted.
We found a recommended restaurant and enjoyed lovely food and wine and were served lots of port and cake at the end. It was such a fun evening, and I really enjoyed their company.
They were heading off early in the morning for the long walk to Barcelos, and although I was disappointed to think that I wouldn’t see them again, I am fully accepting of Camino life and how people come in and out of it.

I went to bed, but woke up at 3.30am and couldn’t get back to sleep - I think I need to do more walking (so I am more tired), or more wine drinking - or maybe both!

For my walk today, I calculated that I’d only need around 3.5 hours with stops, so I had the luxury of lying in bed, waiting for my room to be clear of other pilgrims. By about 8.30am everyone had left, so I had the room to myself to spread my belongings out and be as noisy as I wished!

I set off at 9am and almost immediately, the Camino scenery changed: it is absolutely beautiful and I was in pure Camino bliss. Gorgeous countryside and beautiful villages. To top it all off, as I approached an isolated forest, I saw a few other pilgrims around, so I could walk through this alone, knowing that were some people not far behind me.

I could feel myself relax today, and all the reasons for deciding to do another camino came flooding black.

After about 5km, I stopped in a small bar for breakfast and had an awful cheese sandwich - dry bread and a couple of slices of cheese thrown inside - but I was grateful for the nourishment.

When I left, I had lots of energy, and a real spring in my step as I walked, and sometimes almost jogged! The scenery continued to be beautiful and I was on a high.

As I approached the penultimate village, I spotted two of the Americans I had met the day before! They are walking really slowly and taking lots of pictures, so were far behind the rest of the family. It turned out, they had all decided not to walk so far to Barcelos, and instead were staying in the same town as me! I was thrilled that I’d be seeing them again.

I walked with my 2 American pilgrim friends to our final stop, and we met with the others for lunch. We spent three hours chatting and eating delicious food. They are staying in the Albergue de Peregrinos, but I am staying in Casa da Mattos - I have a private room in an old Portuguese house, run by an elderly couple. I’ve paid €40 for a massive room, double bed, a huge bathroom with a bath - pure luxury!

I haven’t arranged to meet up with my American friends again - I’ll let fate take its course - it will be great to see them again, but equally, fine if I don’t - I’m not one to stay with the same people for the entire Camino - for me, I do need a balance of social and alone time, and if you stay with the same people, you may miss out on meeting others and learning from them.

I’m not sure what’s going to happen about dinner as according to Google, all of the restaurants are closed on a Sunday. I’ll be ok without food as lunch was decent, but I’ll definitely be very hungry in the morning!

 

[Bala]

So happy to read how things have turned around for you. It sounds like a wonderful day.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 4: Sao Pedro de Rates to Barcelos: 16.2km
I cannot recommend my accommodation in Sao Pedro last night highly enough - Casa Mattos.
The Portuguese house was incredibly stunning, and I had such a great nights sleep.
The owners are an elderly Portuguese couple who don’t speak any English. We communicated with a bit of difficulty in broken Spanish.
This morning, I went downstairs for breakfast and the room was beautiful. I was pleased to be able to help the owner with a WhatsApp message from a peregrino in English.
The walk to Barcelos today was gorgeous - not too hot, wonderful scenery and a delicious pastel de nata on the way!
I bumped into my American friends and walked/sat with them very briefly.
I have arrived in Barcelos and checked into a hotel - I’m actually going to stay here for two nights as I am quite ahead of my itinerary to get to Santiago, and then to meet a friend. Also, I have a booking in the renowned Casa da Fernanda, which is my next stop.
I’m going to get some laundry done, cash, try to buy some leggings, and have a relaxing time in this city.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 5: a day off in Barcelos

I had a day off today which wasn’t really needed but potentially quite a sensible thing to do.
I noticed when I got to my hotel yesterday that the skin on the tops of my little toes are on the verge of blistering, and I can definitely feel some muscular strain in my lower back from carrying my bag, so it was probably a good thing to give these parts of my body a break.
It was lovely to hang around this morning, but I was itching to get on the Camino again by about 2pm!
I walked to the laundrette first thing this morning, and clean clothes have never smelt so good! I then wandered around town, collected a stamp from the Torre Medieval, and had a look inside the church.
I went for lunch in a really pretty part of town and sat outside drinking wine, reading my book, and the cafe just so happened to be on the Camino as you enter Barcelos. I enjoyed sitting there and watching everyone arrive - there’s quite a lot of limping going on - I would imagine it’s Day 3 of some fairly long distances for some peregrinos, and if they feel like I did on my Day 3 of the Camino Frances and walking into Pamplona, I feel their pain!
I’m itching to get going so will have a quick 7am breakfast at the hotel and hopefully leave at around 7.30am. I’m walking around 19km tomorrow to Casa Da Fernanda, which, having read so much about, I’m really looking to.

 

[Pingram]

I find your detailed reports fascinating and helpful. My wife and I are newbies planning on tackling the easy part (Tui onward) in late September. This is all new to us and your entries are very helpful to get a sense of what to expect.

 

[sarahchicago]

Camino Day 5: a day off in Barcelos

I had a day off today which wasn’t really needed but potentially quite a sensible thing to do.
I noticed when I got to my hotel yesterday that the skin on the tops of my little toes are on the verge of blistering, and I can definitely feel some muscular strain in my lower back from carrying my bag, so it was probably a good thing to give these parts of my body a break.
It was lovely to hang around this morning, but I was itching to get on the Camino again by about 2pm!
I walked to the laundrette first thing this morning, and clean clothes have never smelt so good! I then wandered around town, collected a stamp from the Torre Medieval, and had a look inside the church.
I went for lunch in a really pretty part of town and sat outside drinking wine, reading my book, and the cafe just so happened to be on the Camino as you enter Barcelos. I enjoyed sitting there and watching everyone arrive - there’s quite a lot of limping going on - I would imagine it’s Day 3 of some fairly long distances for some peregrinos, and if they feel like I did on my Day 3 of the Camino Frances and walking into Pamplona, I feel their pain!
I’m itching to get going so will have a quick 7am breakfast at the hotel and hopefully leave at around 7.30am. I’m walking around 19km tomorrow to Casa Da Fernanda, which, having read so much about, I’m really looking to.

I love reading your daily posts and reliving my porto to SdC on the central from April. It’s bringing it all back afresh and inspiring me to plan another Camino for next year, if the stars align.

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

I’m not sure what’s going to happen about dinner as according to Google, all of the restaurants are closed on a Sunday. I’ll be ok without food as lunch was decent, but I’ll definitely be very hungry in the morning!

Don't know about the northern towns you're in, but often, restaurants are open Sunday for the noon meal (a lot of Portuguese families go out then), but then are closed at dinnertime and often Monday, both meals, as well.

The noon meal on Sunday usually is served till about 3 pm or similar.

Generally no all-inclusive meal of the day bargain on Saturdays or Sundays; everything will be a la carte. But usually still some cheaper options.

Bom caminho! (and since I'm writing this on Tuesday, I hope all went well!) (Reading on--it obviously did; your posts are great and it sounds like you're having a very good time.)

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 6: Barcelos to Lugar do Corgo (Casa da Fernanda) - 19.3km

Today has been quite a difficult walk as it’s really hot, no breeze, and lots of steady uphills.
I’ve spoken to quite a few people today - one runs half marathons, and many usually walk distances of around 30km, and all have said that they have found today particularly tough.
I enjoyed it until the very last 5km - it was just too hot for it to be a pleasant walk!
Once out of Barcelos, todays scenery was wonderful, and there was even a beautiful swimming spot on a river, right on the Camino.
Today has been my most sociable walking day, and I’ve enjoyed meeting lots of different people.
Everyone who I spoke to was heading for Casa Da Fernanda, and I began to wonder how she was going to fit us all in!
I arrived here very hot and sweaty, and have quite a bad heat rash on the backs of my legs - very red and lots of welts. I’ve just had a cold shower which has made it better, and a new Czech friend has some homeopathic serum for me.
Casa Da Fernanda’s is like a hippy commune, in a really good way! We have all been lazing around drinking wine, nobody was in a rush to do anything - even shower!
Fernanda is just wonderful; a whirlwind of charm, fun and generosity.
I’ve had a great afternoon, and looking forward to our meal later this evening.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 7: Lugar do Corgo to Ponte De Lima - 13.9km

Casa da Fernanda’s definitely lived up to the rave reviews I have read; she is a remarkable lady - always has a smile on her face, super fun, generous and kind.
The wine flowed freely all afternoon (and it was literally free!), and at around 6pm ish, in her open air kitchen, Fernanda cooked up lots of fried Portuguese snacks for us to munch on, soak up the alcohol, and keep us going until dinner at 7.30pm.
Dinner was on a long communal table in Fernanda’s kitchen: vegetable soup, bachalhau, pork, vegetables, beans and salad.
Fernanda and her husband led a big sing song after the meal - singing well-known songs from all the countries of the world that our dinner table represented.
We then sat in the garden drinking port and eating some chocolate biscuits for desert.
The guitar came out and people sang, but I soon sloped off to bed as I was so tired from the heat of the day, and the abundance of wine!
Breakfast at 7.30am was so generous - fresh rolls, chorizo, cheese, fresh fruit, yoghurt and gallons of freshly made coffee.
I was on my way by about 8.15am, and so pleased that I had experienced Fernanda’s world renowned hospitality!
I walked on my own at first, but soon met up with my Czech friends and a friend from America - we had all bonded at Fernanda’s and had plenty to chat about.
The walk was beautiful - lovely scenery and not challenging at all, especially since it was cloudy and cool. I was really glad about this, as the heat rash on my leg is quite severe and I would’ve been really concerned if it had been in the sun for another day.

Ponte de Lima is beautiful but quite touristy - I have been surprised to hear some English accents. I have had a sandwich and small beer, and checked into a private room. I’m waiting for a phone call before I go and explore the town properly, without my rucksack.

I’m really nervous about tomorrows walk because it’s going to be raining, and the path up and down Alto da Portelo isn’t easy - I’m particularly nervous about the descent when it’s slippery. I’ve got my new walking sticks out and ready for the first time, and will probably change into my trainers for the descent - my Teva sandals probably have a better grip, but I think my feet will be sliding around in them, which won’t help matters…
I contemplated getting a taxi tomorrow because of this potentially hazardous descent, and if it’s absolutely chucking it down when I wake up, I might revisit this idea; I’m so reluctant to, and for me, it would put a bit of a dampener on my Camino, but I’ll just need to get over myself, which is better than getting over a broken ankle….
I plan to get up ridiculously early, as I think the rain worsens throughout the day, and also so I can take it ridiculously slowly. If I have to get down on my backside and shimmy down the mountain, so be it!

 

[sarahchicago]

Camino Day 7: Lugar do Corgo to Ponte De Lima - 13.9km

Casa da Fernanda’s definitely lived up to the rave reviews I have read; she is a remarkable lady - always has a smile on her face, super fun, generous and kind.
The wine flowed freely all afternoon (and it was literally free!), and at around 6pm ish, in her open air kitchen, Fernanda cooked up lots of fried Portuguese snacks for us to munch on, soak up the alcohol, and keep us going until dinner at 7.30pm.
Dinner was on a long communal table in Fernanda’s kitchen: vegetable soup, bachalhau, pork, vegetables, beans and salad.
Fernanda and her husband led a big sing song after the meal - singing well-known songs from all the countries of the world that our dinner table represented.
We then sat in the garden drinking port and eating some chocolate biscuits for desert.
The guitar came out and people sang, but I soon sloped off to bed as I was so tired from the heat of the day, and the abundance of wine!
Breakfast at 7.30am was so generous - fresh rolls, chorizo, cheese, fresh fruit, yoghurt and gallons of freshly made coffee.
I was on my way by about 8.15am, and so pleased that I had experienced Fernanda’s world renowned hospitality!
I walked on my own at first, but soon met up with my Czech friends and a friend from America - we had all bonded at Fernanda’s and had plenty to chat about.
The walk was beautiful - lovely scenery and not challenging at all, especially since it was cloudy and cool. I was really glad about this, as the heat rash on my leg is quite severe and I would’ve been really concerned if it had been in the sun for another day.

Ponte de Lima is beautiful but quite touristy - I have been surprised to hear some English accents. I have had a sandwich and small beer, and checked into a private room. I’m waiting for a phone call before I go and explore the town properly, without my rucksack.

I’m really nervous about tomorrows walk because it’s going to be raining, and the path up and down Alto da Portelo isn’t easy - I’m particularly nervous about the descent when it’s slippery. I’ve got my new walking sticks out and ready for the first time, and will probably change into my trainers for the descent - my Teva sandals probably have a better grip, but I think my feet will be sliding around in them, which won’t help matters…
I contemplated getting a taxi tomorrow because of this potentially hazardous descent, and if it’s absolutely chucking it down when I wake up, I might revisit this idea; I’m so reluctant to, and for me, it would put a bit of a dampener on my Camino, but I’ll just need to get over myself, which is better than getting over a broken ankle….
I plan to get up ridiculously early, as I think the rain worsens throughout the day, and also so I can take it ridiculously slowly. If I have to get down on my backside and shimmy down the mountain, so be it!

The downhill really isn’t bad. Take your time going up and down. Take lots of breaks, drink lots of water, eat snacks; they help with energy. The start from ponte de Lima is really lovely. There is a lovely little cafe in Arcozelo that is just 40m up a narrow walled path on your left. The owner is very kind- he placed tiny baby oranges on the table as I drank my café com leite and laughed when I tried to peel them. You eat them skin and all! (This was in April- probably no *baby* oranges now). Enjoy ponte de lima in the evening- the tourists thin out. I found it magical and restful.

 

[LuisaR]

The downhill really isn’t bad. Take your time going up and down. Take lots of breaks, drink lots of water, eat snacks; they help with energy. The start from ponte de Lima is really lovely. There is a lovely little cafe in Arcozelo that is just 40m up a narrow walled path on your left. The owner is very kind- he placed tiny baby oranges on the table as I drank my café com leite and laughed when I tried to peel them. You eat them skin and all! (This was in April- probably no *baby* oranges now). Enjoy ponte de lima in the evening- the tourists thin out. I found it magical and restful.

Oh brilliant - thank you. Having read that the path is ‘treacherous’ on the way down, I have got the fear doing it in the rain. You have made me feel a lot better!

 

[J11]

Really looking forward to hearing how the next few days pan out. I'm starting from Ponte de Lima next Friday (I'll arrive there on Thursday). Do let keep me posted about the sleeping bag vs sleeping bag liner debate as well! Bon Camino!

 

[David Tallan]

The wine flowed freely all afternoon (and it was literally free!)

Just a quick comment that Casa Fernanda is a donativo albergue, for accommodations, food and refreshments. As you will often read in these forums "donativo does not mean free". Hopefully you considered how much you consumed when determining how much to donate (although, personally, I like to base it more on what I would like to be available for the next pilgrim).

 

[LuisaR]

Just a quick comment that Casa Fernanda is a donativo albergue, for accommodations, food and refreshments. As you will often read in these forums "donativo does not mean free". Hopefully you considered how much you consumed when determining how much to donate (although, personally, I like to base it more on what I would like to be available for the next pilgrim).

Casa da Fernanda is not a donativo - she has a set price for accommodation, food and refreshments.

 

[David Tallan]

Casa da Fernanda is not a donativo - she has a set price for accommodation, food and refreshments.

Aah. That's a change since 2018. I stand corrected.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 8: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães - 17.9km

I had a nice evening in Ponte de Lima yesterday. It’s such a beautiful, old, picturesque town. Despite there being loads of places to eat, I struggled to find somewhere which wasn’t too formal, and when I did find something that I wanted, the waiter was so busy he wasn’t able to serve me for 20mins so I left.
I eventually found a bar playing really loud rock music on a back street, and I sat outside and ate some tostada with tomatoes , cheese, pesto and nuts, washed down with a couple of glasses of white wine.

I made the mistake of booking a room in a house which was about a 15min walk uphill from the centre of town. It was pleasant enough, but I’m covered in mosquito bites (at least that’s what I hope they are!), which I think happened during the night.

So, after all my angst and worry about the wet weather today/ steep climb/descent, I needn’t have worried at all. The weather ended up being perfect for todays walk - cloudy and cool. Not a drop of rain, although I think it’s lurking now.
The walk out of Ponte de Lima was beautiful, and then the ascent started. In a nutshell, it’s a steady ascent on proper paths for most of the time, some ocasional really steep bits, and then at the end some scrambling up rocks and stones and very steep. It’s not a breeze, but not too awful.
I barely noticed the descent - I was expecting something horrendous and I hardly realised it was happening.
It would have been a difficult day if there had been lots of rain, so I feel very fortunate that the forecast was wrong.

A dog followed me from the final cafe stop before the climb - I presumed it would disappear at some point, and I started to get worried after about an hour - I don’t want him to get lost, but surely I’m not the only pilgrim he’s followed??!!
He was still by my side as I started to descend. so I had to shout at him and wave my sticks around - he seemed to get the message, and hopefully got back to his owner!

I am staying in Casa de São Sebastião, in Rubiães, which is a private albergue. It was €13 for a bed, and it’s a really lovely space. There are plenty of beds, but so far it’s just me and a Spanish man I met in a cafe after the descent.

I was reflecting today about this Camino and I’m really enjoying it. It feels a lot easier compared to the Frances - of course it’s a shorter distance, but todays terrain happened fairly frequently on the CF, where as on this Camino, I think today may have been the most challenging?
I am a lot more relaxed as the temperatures aren’t too high - I left in the dark on almost every day last year, but on this Camino, the earliest I’ve set off is 7.15am.
I am also finding the other pilgrims are more laid back and easier to chat to - there’s less cliqueness than I experienced on the CF.

I’ve had a shower and going to go to the local cafeteria for some very well deserved food!

 

[LuisaR]

Really looking forward to hearing how the next few days pan out. I'm starting from Ponte de Lima next Friday (I'll arrive there on Thursday). Do let keep me posted about the sleeping bag vs sleeping bag liner debate as well! Bon Camino!

I really don’t know - it’s quite warm but not massively at night, but I’ve been supplied with blankets in all my accommodation so far….if I was just using a liner, I think I’d need to have some warm layers on to get through the night….

 

[J11]

I really don’t know - it’s quite warm but not massively at night, but I’ve been supplied with blankets in all my accommodation so far….if I was just using a liner, I think I’d need to have some warm layers on to get through the night….

Thanks you

 

[J11]

Camino Day 8: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães - 17.9km

I had a nice evening in Ponte de Lima yesterday. It’s such a beautiful, old, picturesque town. Despite there being loads of places to eat, I struggled to find somewhere which wasn’t too formal, and when I did find something that I wanted, the waiter was so busy he wasn’t able to serve me for 20mins so I left.
I eventually found a bar playing really loud rock music on a back street, and I sat outside and ate some tostada with tomatoes , cheese, pesto and nuts, washed down with a couple of glasses of white wine.

I made the mistake of booking a room in a house which was about a 15min walk uphill from the centre of town. It was pleasant enough, but I’m covered in mosquito bites (at least that’s what I hope they are!), which I think happened during the night.

So, after all my angst and worry about the wet weather today/ steep climb/descent, I needn’t have worried at all. The weather ended up being perfect for todays walk - cloudy and cool. Not a drop of rain, although I think it’s lurking now.
The walk out of Ponte de Lima was beautiful, and then the ascent started. In a nutshell, it’s a steady ascent on proper paths for most of the time, some ocasional really steep bits, and then at the end some scrambling up rocks and stones and very steep. It’s not a breeze, but not too awful.
I barely noticed the descent - I was expecting something horrendous and I hardly realised it was happening.
It would have been a difficult day if there had been lots of rain, so I feel very fortunate that the forecast was wrong.

A dog followed me from the final cafe stop before the climb - I presumed it would disappear at some point, and I started to get worried after about an hour - I don’t want him to get lost, but surely I’m not the only pilgrim he’s followed??!!
He was still by my side as I started to descend. so I had to shout at him and wave my sticks around - he seemed to get the message, and hopefully got back to his owner!

I am staying in Casa de São Sebastião, in Rubiães, which is a private albergue. It was €13 for a bed, and it’s a really lovely space. There are plenty of beds, but so far it’s just me and a Spanish man I met in a cafe after the descent.

I was reflecting today about this Camino and I’m really enjoying it. It feels a lot easier compared to the Frances - of course it’s a shorter distance, but todays terrain happened fairly frequently on the CF, where as on this Camino, I think today may have been the most challenging?
I am a lot more relaxed as the temperatures aren’t too high - I left in the dark on almost every day last year, but on this Camino, the earliest I’ve set off is 7.15am.
I am also finding the other pilgrims are more laid back and easier to chat to - there’s less cliqueness than I experienced on the CF.

I’ve had a shower and going to go to the local cafeteria for some very well deserved food!

Can I ask how long this took you to walk? I'm trying to plan my distances from Ponte and was thinking of going on a bitt further after stopping for some food & rest for an hour or so in Rubiaes, but trying to figure out what's feasible. Thanks!

 

[LuisaR]

Can I ask how long this took you to walk? I'm trying to plan my distances from Ponte and was thinking of going on a bitt further after stopping for some food & rest for an hour or so in Rubiaes, but trying to figure out what's feasible. Thanks!

I left at 7.15am and arrived at 1.15, probably with around an hour of stops in total and at times, some very slow shuffling uphill!
There’s a really good restaurant to stop in in Rubiaes.

 

[J11]

I left at 7.15am and arrived at 1.15, probably with around an hour of stops in total and at times, some very slow shuffling uphill!
There’s a really good restaurant to stop in in Rubiaes.

Thanks again, all super helpful.

 

[David Tallan]

Camino Day 8: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães - 17.9km

I had a nice evening in Ponte de Lima yesterday. It’s such a beautiful, old, picturesque town. Despite there being loads of places to eat, I struggled to find somewhere which wasn’t too formal, and when I did find something that I wanted, the waiter was so busy he wasn’t able to serve me for 20mins so I left.
I eventually found a bar playing really loud rock music on a back street, and I sat outside and ate some tostada with tomatoes , cheese, pesto and nuts, washed down with a couple of glasses of white wine.

I made the mistake of booking a room in a house which was about a 15min walk uphill from the centre of town. It was pleasant enough, but I’m covered in mosquito bites (at least that’s what I hope they are!), which I think happened during the night.

So, after all my angst and worry about the wet weather today/ steep climb/descent, I needn’t have worried at all. The weather ended up being perfect for todays walk - cloudy and cool. Not a drop of rain, although I think it’s lurking now.
The walk out of Ponte de Lima was beautiful, and then the ascent started. In a nutshell, it’s a steady ascent on proper paths for most of the time, some ocasional really steep bits, and then at the end some scrambling up rocks and stones and very steep. It’s not a breeze, but not too awful.
I barely noticed the descent - I was expecting something horrendous and I hardly realised it was happening.
It would have been a difficult day if there had been lots of rain, so I feel very fortunate that the forecast was wrong.

A dog followed me from the final cafe stop before the climb - I presumed it would disappear at some point, and I started to get worried after about an hour - I don’t want him to get lost, but surely I’m not the only pilgrim he’s followed??!!
He was still by my side as I started to descend. so I had to shout at him and wave my sticks around - he seemed to get the message, and hopefully got back to his owner!

I am staying in Casa de São Sebastião, in Rubiães, which is a private albergue. It was €13 for a bed, and it’s a really lovely space. There are plenty of beds, but so far it’s just me and a Spanish man I met in a cafe after the descent.

I was reflecting today about this Camino and I’m really enjoying it. It feels a lot easier compared to the Frances - of course it’s a shorter distance, but todays terrain happened fairly frequently on the CF, where as on this Camino, I think today may have been the most challenging?
I am a lot more relaxed as the temperatures aren’t too high - I left in the dark on almost every day last year, but on this Camino, the earliest I’ve set off is 7.15am.
I am also finding the other pilgrims are more laid back and easier to chat to - there’s less cliqueness than I experienced on the CF.

I’ve had a shower and going to go to the local cafeteria for some very well deserved food!

I had the same experience with a dog (edited to add: except come to think of it, it was the day that started in Rubiães), although I was unable to dissuade him until he found other nearby pilgrims to follow. Eventually, after several km I arrived at a pilgrim-focused cafe where I think he turned around and where I was told he has a habit of accompanying pilgrims that far.

It is that experience that leads me to respond, when I see signs posted telling pilgrims not to let dogs follow them, that if the dogs really want to, the pilgrims really cannot prevent them. Discourage yes, prevent no.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 9: Rubiães to Tui - 19.1km

There isn’t much to see or do in Rubiães, and it was also grey and drizzling yesterday, so I had a very quiet and relaxing evening reading my book which I’m very glad I brought!
I ended up sharing a room with a French couple who I had met in Casa da Fernanda. I didn’t sleep very well last night, waking up at 2.30am for a few hours, falling asleep again just before it was time to get going.
I left at 7.15am and my legs ached and my bag didn’t feel right - I couldn’t get it to sit comfortably on me - I even checked at one point if it was actually mine!
There was a great cafe stop around 5km after Rubiães, and I had my favourite Camino breakfast: fresh orange juice, coffee and a sandwich.
After a brief rest, I was on my way again, and I felt so much better - loads more energy, and my bag felt like mine again!
It was drizzling all morning so I have been wearing my Nike trainers rather than my Teva sandals - the Nike’s have been great on this damp terrain, but I prefer my feet to feel the fresh air - I hate having them trapped inside socks and shoes.
It was another beautiful walk, but I didn’t notice my surroundings as much today, as I have been thinking about getting to Tui. I can’t quite believe I’ve reached this final 100km stage of my Camino so quickly - on the CF, it took forever to get to Sarria!
Tui seems lovely - I haven’t had a proper look yet - I am just having a rest/watching my washing go round!
I’m sharing a room with a few Spanish people, all of whom are starting their Camino from here.

 

[Rupe]

Camino Day 1:
Today has been a wonderful surprise, as my plan to slowly edge my way out of Porto to build up my walking confidence and strength, and also to check all my gear is in working order went completely out of the window!
I left Porto at midday and without any breakfast, as I was planning to make an early stop in Araujo - only around 9km away.
I walked so slowly out of Porto which I really enjoyed - I remember on the CF last year leaving big towns while it was still dark, walking so quickly to make sure I got the km’s in to avoid the midday heat.
It was cool and cloudy today, so perfect walking weather. My sandals felt good and my bag light.
I have read extensively how unenjoyable the walk out of Porto is - it’s not particularly pleasant, but my Camino experience has taught me, you take the rough with the smooth! I walked through lots of urban areas, and the only bit of nature I spotted was a rat running out of a derelict building!
There are some dodgy parts on very busy roads, and I had one hairy moment on a road without a proper sidewalk, with a massive lorry hurtling towards me…
So I reached my planned destination, Araujo, and I just knew I didn’t want to spend the first night of my Camino there. It was a small town on a main road, and the hostel wasn’t open for another hour. Depsite my lack of breakfast and lunch, I had plenty of energy left, so just carried on.
The scenery didn’t get much better until about 15km after Porto, and I felt like I was out of the industrial suburbs.
I am now in Moistero, 18.3km out of Porto, and in the most wonderful hostel: Casa Dos Caminhos. The owner is so kind and friendly, and when I told her I hadn’t eaten yet that day, she made me a delicious sandwich and a huge glass of iced tea.
The hostel is clean, cosy and like a family home (see photo of the living room!). Isabel is making dinner tonight - apparently she is full, but so far there is only one other here - a Czech Peregrina.

Just wondering what your experience is with the number of pilgrims and are you booking ahead for your accommodations? Thanks

 

[sarahchicago]

Camino Day 9: Rubiães to Tui - 19.1km

There isn’t much to see or do in Rubiães, and it was also grey and drizzling yesterday, so I had a very quiet and relaxing evening reading my book which I’m very glad I brought!
I ended up sharing a room with a French couple who I had met in Casa da Fernanda. I didn’t sleep very well last night, waking up at 2.30am for a few hours, falling asleep again just before it was time to get going.
I left at 7.15am and my legs ached and my bag didn’t feel right - I couldn’t get it to sit comfortably on me - I even checked at one point if it was actually mine!
There was a great cafe stop around 5km after Rubiães, and I had my favourite Camino breakfast: fresh orange juice, coffee and a sandwich.
After a brief rest, I was on my way again, and I felt so much better - loads more energy, and my bag felt like mine again!
It was drizzling all morning so I have been wearing my Nike trainers rather than my Teva sandals - the Nike’s have been great on this damp terrain, but I prefer my feet to feel the fresh air - I hate having them trapped inside socks and shoes.
It was another beautiful walk, but I didn’t notice my surroundings as much today, as I have been thinking about getting to Tui. I can’t quite believe I’ve reached this final 100km stage of my Camino so quickly - on the CF, it took forever to get to Sarria!
Tui seems lovely - I haven’t had a proper look yet - I am just having a rest/watching my washing go round!
I’m sharing a room with a few Spanish people, all of whom a starting their Camino from here.

If you have the energy, the citadel in Valenca (back over the bridge) is well worth a good visit. The tourist buses leave around 5 and it’s quieter and nice to stroll in the evening. The cathedral in Tui is also interesting Look way up high to find a Santiago matamoros statue. One of the priests saw me poking around in April and gave me a short tour of his favorites, including this, which I never would have noticed.

 

[LuisaR]

Just wondering what your experience is with the number of pilgrims and are you booking ahead for your accommodations? Thanks

I have done a mixture of booking ahead and not. I felt it was totally necessary to book ahead for somewhere like Casa da Fernanda, as I know that her accommodation is popular - she was totally full and turning people away, so that was the right thing to do. There aren’t many people around so far (I’m in Tui today, so perhaps that’s all going to change!) and in general, it would’ve been absolutely fine not to book ahead - I don’t think I would’ve had any trouble at all in finding somewhere to stay.
I was told yesterday by a Spanish pilgrim that everything is booked up from Tui as he had been trying to find places to stay. Of course, many public albergues don’t accept reservations, so when I’m staying at these, I just plan to not get there very late.

 

[verose]

Today is Day 0 of my Camino Portuguese - Central, starting in Porto.

I arrived in Porto from London yesterday afternoon. An easy journey from my home in North London to the airport, a not so pleasant few hours in Gatwick, a smooth flight over on TAP Air Portugal, and an easy journey into the centre of Porto on the metro.

I’m staying in a B&B in town, Linha 22, which has a few rooms above a wine bar. My room is tiny, but I love it - there is a walk in shower directly next to my bed, slightly elevated from the floor which is a brilliant space-saving design quirk which I’ve never seen before.

I have had a day in Porto today to enjoy the sites and to prepare for tomorrow - Day 1 of my Camino.

Last year I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago and it was magical. I wrote about it on this forum but as I was writing it about 12 days retrospectively, I made it to Santiago but my Camino blog musings didn’t! This time, I am going to try my best to provide daily updates on here.

I am walking this Camino solo, but as I am going on a holiday with a friend after Santiago, I felt it was necessary to bring a separate holiday suitcase, alongside my Camino rucksack.

My suitcase was picked up today by TuiTrans and will be delivered to Santiago in a couple of weeks time - I can’t rate this company highly enough - their communication and efficiency have been incredible.

I’ve made a few adjustments to my packing since my last Camino: I have the same Osprey rucksack, bought in Bayonne, 24 hours before my last Camino, and wearing my trusted Teva sandals, bought in Pamplona after suffering from painful blisters for the previous 2 days.

I have upgraded my walking sticks so they have better hand straps - the ones I took last year kept coming undone and it drove me mad!

I have bought a lighter battery pack to charge my phone, and I am going to risk the weight of carrying a book. I really missed having a book to read last year, so I am going to suffer the extra weight - I’ll probably finish it in a few days so the weight will soon be gone. I have bought a smaller water pack - 1.5l instead of 2l -I rarely needed anymore on the Camino Frances last year - and these were on particularly tough days - when crossing the Pyrenees (and that was only because I didn’t top up at Orisson) and when I decided to take an alternative route and walked along a deserted Roman Road for about four hours at Calzada de Los Hermanillos.

In Porto today, I have had my credential stamped by a very surly lady in Porto Cathedral, and then I followed the Camino route from the Cathedral into town; I soon found myself a few meters away from my hotel. I can set off tomorrow and be on route in a just a couple of minutes.

I wandered around the city, and have eaten a pastel de Nata, and had a Bolinhos de bacalhau with a glass of port. Later on, I’m going on a walking tour to make sure I have covered the main sites.

I have a good basic level of Spanish and wrongly thought that Portuguese wasn’t much different - it looks quite similar on paper, but have been surprised at how different it sounds!

As per last year, I haven’t done any training for this Camino, but unlike last year, instead of launching into some serious mountain hiking on Day 1, I will be taking it slowly and easy for the first couple of days. I need to acclimatise to the weather (which fortunately is only mid 20’s), the weight of my pack, and of course, the walking! I have plenty of time and in no rush, so will build on the distances as I go.

Tchau por enquanto, peregrinos!

I hope you don't miss out on Portugal's fabulous Fado music.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 10: Tui - Mos: 23km
I had a lovely evening in Tui last night - walking around the town and visiting the sites. I was expecting an equivalent of Sarria for these last 100km, so was pleasantly surprised.
I stopped for some food and was soon joined by a Spanish man I had met the day before, and then a Dutch father and daughter. We had a lovely evening, and I found out that the Dutch pilgrims were also planning to walk to Mos the next day. As Mos isn’t a typical stage, I was pleased to know that I’d see them there.

The clocks have gone forward an hour now I’m in Spain, so it’s getting lighter later. My room mates started shuffling around from around 6.30am, so I got up and decided to have an early start.
I walked most of the day with my Spanish room mates, but they finished at O Porriño, so I said goodbye and continued further into Mos.

I’m staying in the public albergue, sharing a room with my Dutch friends. We had some lunch together, and to my surprise, my American friends from days ago turned up - I didn’t think for a minute I’d see them again. I joined them later on in another restaurant and met some other peregrino’s they were with, and I have spent all afternoon eating delicious Spanish food and drinking sangria.
Mos is delightful, and I feel I made the right decision to stay here.
It’s been hot today and the last 5km were tiring in the heat. I also walked super fast with my fresh legged Spanish friends (they started their Camino in Tui) - I knew I’d be fine, and enjoyed the faster pace. The walk was mostly lovely - lots of forest, and a bagpiper lurking playing Galician music was an unexpected turn!
I’ve had a rest and going to explore Mos further than it’s bars and restaurants this evening!

 

[pa’delante]

We must be on the same wave. I am at O Porino and 4 ladies traveling mentioned the Dutch father daughter in Tui. Buen camino.

 

[LuisaR]

We must be on the same wave. I am at O Porino and 4 ladies traveling mentioned the Dutch father daughter in Tui. Buen camino.

Buen Camino! I may see you at some point soon!

 

[DanielH]

Buen Camino and look forward to your postings. My friend Susan from Ireland and I will start in Porto too on September 13th.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 11: Mos - Arcade - 16.6km

If you stay in Mos, the public albergue is great and the restaurant opposite is wonderful - I highly recommend this lovely village for a stop!
I left Mos at around 7.15am this morning and arrived at an albergue just outside of Arcade just before 12pm.
The walk was a mix of lovely scenery, especially approaching Arcade, and some really noisy and busy road walking. The final 10mins were really bad - on the side of a major road with massive lorry’s skimming past your face!
I walked alone all day and I really enjoyed it, especially in the misty, cool morning. I enjoyed seeing locals farm their land, and the smells and sounds felt far away from city life.
There were a few steep ascents and descents today, and there was one particularly steep one with the sun beating down on me, and I needed to stop for a brief rest. I was glad I had left early, as it was good for me to stay out of the heat.
I sat in the garden of the albergue listening to a podcast which I got so engrossed in I couldn’t stop. I chatted to a French couple who I keep end up sharing a room with, and then my American friends turned up! Once again, after bumping into them in Mos, I didn’t think that I would see them again.
I’ve sat with them drinking sangria and catching up.
Tomorrow is a really short walk into Pontevedra, just shy of 13km.
I’m starting to run out of toiletries, but I don’t want to carry new bottles of things for the last few days as they will be heavy…..1st world problems!

 

[Pingram]

Great info. Thanks for sharing your experience

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 12: Arcade - Pontevedra: 12.8km

I stayed on the outskirts of Arcade last night in a hostel which was really relaxing and fun: I spent lots of time with my American friends, and we had the pilgrims menu for dinner: vegetable soup, spaghetti carbonara, and a a few beers. We looked at the time and couldn’t believe that it was suddenly 11.30pm- I looked around and noticed that apart from some locals, we were the only ones still up.
I’m usually really organised with getting everything ready for bed and packing my bag for the morning so I can slip out with minimal fuss; I hadn’t done any of this, so I resigned myself with going to bed just as I was, and not getting up until 7am, which I felt was a reasonable time to gather my belongings and make an exit which would be as swift and as quiet as I could manage.
I had a good nights sleep (probably because it was so late and I had had a few drinks), woke up early, but lay there until 7am to make my exit.
I had breakfast - my first Pan con Tomate of this Camino - and chatted to a few people from the hostel; I was so surprised to learn that someone on this forum who had been following this blog - @pa’delante - had not only been sharing my room last night, but sleeping in the bunk right next to me!
Hello, @pa’delante lovely to meet you, and I hope you had a great walk today!
It was the first day of rain on this Camino - I covered my bag but not myself - I detest wearing my poncho, as it’s so hot and sweaty and big - so just walked in my usual T-shirt and shorts.
There were quite a few ascents today, but when you’re only walking a short distance, it really doesn’t matter. The Camino was quite busy and I kept getting caught in waves of people. I stopped occasionally to let the Camino traffic pass, but at times it was quite noisy and relentless. I saw my Dutch friends a few times, and they were a calming influence on the sudden noise and elevated energy of the Camino.
I took the alternative route into Pontevedra which was definitely the right move, but the busyness of this town (city?), took me by surprise. I nearly got run over as I waltzed across what I thought was a zebra crossing, but realised it was a set of traffic lights, and I should’ve been waiting for a green man….
I have booked a private room tonight to try to avoid the masses, but I’m going over budget, so it will be bunk beds until Santiago after this.
I’ve been out and got back in past midnight, so I’ll update further on my evening in tomorrows edition.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 13: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reís - 21.2km

So last night in Pontevedra was fun! It’s a very busy town, but I enjoyed visiting the sites, and yet again, bumping into my American friends who by complete coincidence were staying in the same hotel as me.
We went to an incredible seafood restaurant and ordered ‘octopus dumpies’ which made me laugh, along with scallops, cuttlefish and calamari. The restaurant was packed with locals, and we spent hours there, eating and drinking.
I didn’t get into bed until past midnight, so my 6.30am alarm didn’t go down very well.
It rained all day today on the camino - I still refuse to wear a waterproof as it’s too hot, but my bag was covered up. I’ve been wearing my regular Nike trainers in the wet weather, and they have been brilliant. I’m really glad I brought them along with my Teva sandals.
It was pretty flat and an easy walk - because of the rain and the camino busyness, I just wanted to get to Caldas de Reis.
Towards the end of the walk, I struck up conversation with an Irish lady who has walked many caminos, and I have spent a lovely evening with her and her friend, along with a couple of German peregrina’s.
I have soaked my feet in the surprisingly warm thermal spa, and visited the church of Saint Thomas Becket.
My hostel tonight is superb - they have kitted it out with everything a pilgrim needs. I’m in a room with about 26 others but it’s so spacious and well thought out.
The weather is better tomorrow and temperatures are starting to rise, but fortunately, they start going into the 30’s just after I hit Santiago.

 

[LuisaR]

Thanks you

Update: if it was me, I wouldn’t bring a sleeping bag!! I’ve only been using my liner when nothing is provided and I’ve been fine. I’ve worn a jumper at night to keep warm and that’s it. Plus, it’s getting hotter by the day…. @J11

 

[Joeninho]

would imagine it’s Day 3 of some fairly long distances for some peregrinos, and if they feel like I did on my Day 3 of the Camino Frances and walking into Pamplona, I feel their pain!

Day 18 or 19 for some.

Bom Caminho

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 14: Caldas de Reís - Vilar: 23.7km

I woke up early so decided to get up, and had left my hostel just after 7am. The walk today was beautiful and I really enjoyed the scenery, however, I didn’t enjoy the people! It’s busy and loud - there’s a large group of around 20-30 teenagers who are playing music on a speaker as they walk, singing along and generally being incredibly noisy. They are young and enjoying themselves so I don’t want to spoil their fun, so I did my utmost to avoid them, either staying behind or going ahead, but somehow I always ended up back with them!
I saw my friends who I had dinner with last night - we spoke briefly but but we didn’t walk together. I was engrossed in a podcast, which helped to drown out some of the noise! I was pleased that the rain had stopped and I’m back in my walking sandals - it was great walking weather - cool and cloudy.

My plan today was to stay in Padrón, and I had booked a bed in a hostel, but when I got there, I toyed with the idea of going further. I really wanted to continue, but I wasn’t planning on getting to Santiago for another two nights (I was going to split the last stage so I walked into Santiago with fresh legs) so if I continued further today, I would then end up doing a couple of very, very short days!

I was deliberating for a while, ate the other half of the huge sandwich I bought for breakfast, but talked myself into staying in Padrón and not deviating from the plan….however….when I got to my hostel, the 30 or so teenagers who I spent the day unsuccessfully avoiding, were all lining up to go in. I did a u-turn, and I carried on along the Camino. I’m now about 5km out of Padrón in a fantastic albergue: Albergue O Lagar de Jesús. It’s a beautiful country house, and so peaceful and quiet. I feel so happy to be here, and definitely made the right decision to stay here - I was lucky to get the last bed! We are having a communal meal tonight, and tomorrow I will walk the 18km into Santiago.
As I’m arriving a day earlier into Santiago than planned, I had to find accommodation for tomorrow. I’ll now be there for 3 nights instead of 2, before I catch a train to Madrid. I will hopefully be reunited with my suitcase tomorrow, last seen in Porto…..

 

[Pingram]

Sounds like a nice day despite the teenagers . If you don’t mind a newbie asking questions if you are going from Santiago to Madrid how are you getting your suitcase last seen in Porto? Good luck as you finish and thank you so much for sharing your experience. It was very insightful and helpful.

 

[LuisaR]

Sounds like a nice day despite the teenagers . If you don’t mind a newbie asking questions if you are going from Santiago to Madrid how are you getting your suitcase last seen in Porto? Good luck as you finish and thank you so much for sharing your experience. It was very insightful and helpful.

Hi, my suitcase was collected by a company called Tuitrans from my hotel in Porto, and they are delivering it to my hotel in Santiago tomorrow. I’m not leaving for Madrid until 7th Aug, but will be in Santiago on 4th Aug.

 

[Pingram]

Hi, my suitcase was collected by a company called Tuitrans from my hotel in Porto, and they are delivering it to my hotel in Santiago tomorrow. I’m not leaving for Madrid until 7th Aug, but will be in Santiago on 4th Aug.

Thank you that is helpful!

 

[J11]

Update: if it was me, I wouldn’t bring a sleeping bag!! I’ve only been using my liner when nothing is provided and I’ve been fine. I’ve worn a jumper at night to keep warm and that’s it. Plus, it’s getting hotter by the day…. @J11

Hahah too late now - I just saw this and I landed in Ponte de Lima today! Never mind - thank you anyway!

 

[LuisaR]

Hahah too late now - I just saw this and I landed in Ponte de Lima today! Never mind - thank you anyway!

Ahhhh good luck and enjoy! It’s going to get quite hot from tomorrow!

 

[J11]

Hahah too late now - I just saw this and I landed in Ponte de Lima today! Never mind!

Thank you anyway!!

Ahhhh good luck and enjoy! It’s going to get quite hot from tomorrow!

seeing as you’re online - where should I go for dinner this evening. I’ve been working today but about to head into town and explore!

 

[LuisaR]

Thank you anyway!!

seeing as you’re online - where should I go for dinner this evening. I’ve been working today but about to head into town and explore!

I didn’t do a good job in finding dinner there - I ended up on a side street, sitting outside a bar that plays rock music. The food was good though - but not a proper meal (I just had a slice of bread topped with lovely things!).

 

[J11]

I didn’t do a good job in finding dinner there - I ended up on a side street, sitting outside a bar that plays rock music. The food was good though - but not a proper meal (I just had a slice of bread topped with lovely things!).

Cool. I’ll go out and see. Thanks anyway.

 

[LuisaR]

Camino Day 15: Vilar to Santiago de Compostela - 18.6km

Wise Pilgrim says that it was an 18.6km, but the sign posts said 20km!
I was quite emotional on my walk this morning - I left at 7am and it was a beautiful morning - there was a stunning scene with a church and fields and vineyards, and alongside it being my final day, it was all a bit too much!
I was tired today, and there are a few ascents. I walked quite slowly, and I reflected on how different today was to my final day on the CF - I ran into Santiago last year!
Walking into Plaza del Obradoiro was amazing, and I sat down in front of the cathedral, but soon spotted my Irish friends so went to see them.
Now for the down side - I have a lot of bites - they could be mosquito bites, but I am paranoid they are the dreaded bed bugs. I have been using a mosquito repellent so that’s added to the paranoia that they must be bed bugs. I went to the medical tent at the pilgrims office and the man there didn’t know either.
I am now sitting in a laundrette with every single item of clothing, including my rucksack and shoes, blasting them in the washer and drier. I’ll then have to carefully take the clothes off I have now, get them into the wash, and get changed into my clean clothes….hopefully without anyone walking into the laundrette to see me naked!
I didn’t expect to spend my afternoon sitting in a laundrette, and hopefully it’s not even necessary, but if they are bed bugs, I want them gone immediately!
I’ll check into my hotel with clean gear, and meeting my friends tonight for tapas.

This has been a wonderful couple of weeks - I’ve been fortunate enough not to suffer any physical ailments (apart from my bites!), I’ve met wonderful people and seen and stayed in some fantastic places. Another Camino I will never forget!

Bed bug update: I’ve been into 2 pharmacies and they are convinced they are not bed bugs…..although they don’t think they’re mosquito bites either…..I have cream and antihistamine tablets….and very very clean walking gear

 

[Bala]

Congratulations on completing your Camino! May your bites, whatever they're from, heal quickly. Thanks for taking us on your journey.

 

[Pingram]

Congratulations and thank you for posting and sharing. It has been very helpful. Good luck on the road ahead.

 

[TashH]

Congratulations and thank you so much for sharing your journey, I have enjoyed reading your updates. I’m so excited (and very nervous) for my own Camino in a few weeks times.

 

[backlasher]

Congratulations and thank you for the updates.

 

[natcire]

Congratulations on completing your Camino Portuguese.

 

[HumanistHiker]

Congratulations on completing your Camino Portugues. You've really whet my appetite for walking it myself.

 

[Joeninho]

Congratulations

 

[LuisaR]

Three nights in Santiago at the end of my camino : I am leaving Santiago in the morning to catch a train to Madrid, so a final update.
I had booked a room for two nights in Santiago at PR Mexico. Super cheap and a great hotel, but a 15min walk from the historic centre. Handy for my early train to Madrid tomorrow though, as the train station is only a ten minute walk away.
I arrived in Santiago a day earlier than planned, so needed to make a last minute booking, and ended up getting a cheap-ish room at Hotel Plaza Obradoiro - it’s a few steps from the main square, super quiet and a lovely hotel. Next time I walk a camino, I will definitely stay here!

I have spent a lot of time with my Irish friends in the past 36 hours - they have walked 11 caminos, so Santiago is like a second home to them!

On our first night, we had a celebratory meal at A Taberna do Bipso, eating delicious tapas and celebrating the end of our camino.
The following morning, we were up early enough to watch peregrino’s who had travelled the camino on horseback arrive into the square.
We then went for breakfast at Paradiso Cafeteria, and sat at the bar with an elderly local lady who seems to go their every morning for a coffee.
I then spent a couple of hours wandering the streets of this incredible city, ate some calamari and had a glass of wine, and then had a siesta.

In the evening, I met my two Irish friends and was introduced to an Australian pilgrim, and we went for an Italian meal - one of the Irish peregrinas is a vegetarian, and she was craving pasta!

At 10.30pm, I went on a night tour of the cathedral - it was incredible to walk around when it’s so empty and quiet - I loved it!
This morning I went to mass at 9.30am, and the botafumeiro was swung - I hadn’t seen it when I was here last year. I resisted the urge to film it, and savoured every second of this magnificent tradition.
We went for breakfast at Bar La Tita, and then it was soon time to say goodbye to my Irish friends at the bus stop.
I went for a siesta and had planned to go on a walking tour of the city. I was so tired when I woke up, dragged myself into town for the tour but when I got there, I decided to do my own walking tour of tapas bars! I stayed out for a couple of hours, and came back quite early to get myself ready for the early train tomorrow.

 

[Laisee]

Really enjoyed reading about your journey and glad you had a fabulous camino!

 

[backlasher]

I'm so glad you shared your journey with us.

 

[Pingram]

Once again Thank You. It is so reassuring to read your experience as we prepare for our first Camino. It is so kind of you to take the time to post your adventure each day.
I hope you enjoy your upcoming adventure too.

 

[frasert]

Brilliant
I love the pace
Was there a bed race ?

 

[CaminoMonique]

Thank you for sharing your experience and for making the journey seem to easy! I’m planning for 2025, so I have a while to prepare and reading experiences from different pilgrims helps me a lot!

 

[senora1]

Planning to walk this route from Porto in spring 2024 so your daily updates will be very helpful. I also did the Frances in Spring 2022. Enjoy!

We also wanted CF and plan to do CP in either May or September so am enjoying reading this detailed report

 

[Elizabeth2018]

Thank you for taking us on your journey. I have just discovered this set of posts this evening and am feeling very inspired to walk the CP in the spring!