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I did enjoy a nice ensalada in O’pillabán - they are lovely people and the room was really comfy.Thanks for the update, @Trish K. You know there’s a pretty big bunch of Invierno fanatics here on the forum, and we always love to hear from people on the route.
Hope you get a chance to eat a meal in O’Pillabán - the food is quite good, a little on the foodie side.
And when you walk into Montefurado tomorrow, keep an eye out for the wonderful nonagerian (94 maybe?), Casimiro. He is a wonderful man and loves to regale you with stories. He is a real camino character and a lovely human being to boot. See this thread. His big house, on a hill, will be on the left before you get to the river and train tracks. It’s a real treat to be able to spend time with this man.
I def planning to stay in Diomondi - will give them a call tomorrow to check they are open. Thanks for the other tips!@Trish K, how wonderful that you are currently walking the Invierno! I finished a short version beginning in Diomondi last Sunday. It rained every day which for me was a plus.
I hope you are able to stay in the Albergue in Diomondi. It is magical. No food nearby and will have to have already eaten your big meal of the day or bring dinner & breakfast. Microwave & fridge, no utensils or plates/cups.
Winery Via Romana immediately after Belesar great employees, spotless bathroom and free wine with a spectacular view.
In Chantada a must place to eat is Os Pendellos gourmet menu del día for € 12.
Go visit Carmiña at Bar Rosende/Albergue Reina Lupa about 11 km from Santiago.
Holler if you have any questions.
Buen Camino!!!!!
I remember seeing an earlier post from you to say you would be on the Invierno over Xmas. I think the only thing you’ll need to be mindful of is that the daylight hours will be short - and the stages are long! At the moment, it starts to get light around 8.00am and dark around 6.30pm.Thank you for posting! I'll be on the Invierno over Christmas holidays. I'm counting down the days
Your info is very helpful!
Thank you very much for your update.I am 3 days in on the Camino Invierno and thought I’d post a couple of thoughts for those who may be considering this Camino in the coming winter months. I won’t go into detail about the trail/landscape as other threads have covered that - this is more practicalities.
I started on Thursday from Ponferrada to Las Medulas where, luckily, I’d had a good breakfast in a cafe accross from the albergue, before setting off. I say luckily because despite passing through at least 4 villages (including Borrones) where there were cafes situated, not a single cafe or bar was open. I was unlucky with the weather - it poured with rain from start to finish. I was glad to have booked into Las Medulio hotel. The rooms were warm and I was able to get all of my kit dry overnight. My room also had a bath (bliss - bring your own plug!). The only negative was that the kitchen was closed from 2:30pm to 8pm - I’d arrived at 2:50pm. They had crisps and peanuts so made do with that. When I went down for dinner they said the kitchen wouldn’t open until 8:30pm. There was not a lot of choice for a veggie but they did me some egg & chips with cheese. I didn’t venture further as it was still pouring with rain. So Note to all - bring provisions with you from Ponferrada.
Day 2 - Las Medulas to O Barco and albergue Xagoaza.
I needed to leave early as another long day but the hotel didn’t open until 9.00am - so no breakfast there. I thought I’d find a cafe open in Las Medulas, but at 7:45am still nothing was open. The sun was shining today, so much more enjoyable. A couple of cafes open in Puente de Domingo Florez and had a lovely lunch in Sobradelo in Bar Museo. The other bars were closed but there is also a small Spar here, which was open. It’s a long stretch and it was after 4pm when I arrived in O Barco. I found a supermarket to buy provisions for dinner as I was staying in the albergue Xagoaza - a further 3.5km out of town. It’s not only out of town, it’s also up a steep hill! Not nice on already tired legs! I’d called ahead so they knew I was coming but it looked very closed up when I arrived. I phoned them and was told the door was open and to just go in. I had the whole place to myself but no heat or hot water. No kettle but at least there’s a microwave and hob. Also, all the beds had blankets so once in my sleeping bag with a blanket pulled over me, I was snug enough. NB: about 2/3rds of the way up I saw a yellow arrow pointing down a narrow track. No idea where that takes you but it’s not to the albergue! Stay on the road.
Day 3 - Xagoaza to A Rua. A nice short day so I decided to return into O Barco for a nice breakfast before setting off. You can take a shorter route without backtracking all the way into town. I did think that walking back down the hill if the weather was snowy or icy could be challenging. Not really any options for food or drink on this stage but it’s only around 13km. I’m staying in hostel O’Pillabán tonight, which is lovely. (I booked ahead). A Rua has several bars and cafes and a big supermarket. Tomorrows route had no option for food stops so stock up here.
Buen camino, Trish!I def planning to stay in Diomondi - will give them a call tomorrow to check they are open. Thanks for the other tips!
Yes, thank you! I walked on the Frances last Christmas and remember the short days. It's something I've been thinking about as the walk gets closer. I also remember how spectacular the lighting was with the sun lower in the sky. I have fond memories of last year's walk and I'm really looking forward to this one. Though a little nervous tooI remember seeing an earlier post from you to say you would be on the Invierno over Xmas. I think the only thing you’ll need to be mindful of is that the daylight hours will be short - and the stages are long! At the moment, it starts to get light around 8.00am and dark around 6.30pm.
I'm enjoying your posts! Happy to hear that Pension Pacita is open!Staying at Casa Pacita in A Ponte Barxa de Lor tomorrow, based on recommendations on this forum. Booked via their website.
Please say hello and condolences to the good folks at Pension Pacita from us.
Well, I’m no spring chicken - I was wasted by the end of it! With hindsight - and if I had the time, I think I would have set out later in the morning from Diamonde and had a bit of a rest day in Chantada if there were accom options available.Wow, an epic day to Rodeiro. You must be very fit! Buen camino, Trish. May your feet continue to have wings!
Wow....that is a killer day!Day 7 & 8
Both epic days for different reasons. Yesterday, it poured with rain all day again. There were cafes open in Monforte for breakfast, but not until 8.00am. There was nothing open en route. Brierley’s guide gives possible options as slight detours around Cruce - I didn’t go to see, but the hospitalario at Diamonde said she didn’t think either were open. So bring provisions for the day - and also night if staying at Diomonde. What an amazing albergue! Rosa was already there to greet me. She immediately told me I could wash and dry all my clothes (I looked like a drowned rat!). Laundry was €5 for wash and dry. Rosa is there every eve I think and stays till 8.30’ish. It was nice to initially have someone to chat too. There is a microwave but not much else but the albergue is amazing. I was there completely alone after Rosa left but felt fine. The rooms were warm and the showers hot. There were no additional blankets but not needed anyway.
I knew I had a long stretch today through to Rodeiro, so set out at 7:30am in the dark. It was challenging for sure - steepish descent on a woodland track, strewn with boulders and rocks - in the dark! But with a small head torch and poles I made it OK. Thankfully today was dry - but misty and cloudy. It took me around 2.5 hours to reach Chantada, where there were several cafes open. I stopped at Cafe Central which was buzzing with locals! I’m sure they would have made up a bocadillo to take away if requested. I didn’t see a supermarket but wasn’t really looking - but this is the last chance to get supplies for the day. This was my toughest and longest day. I finally arrived in Rodeiro around 4pm. I’m staying in hostel/albergue Carpintieras, a little off the Camino. You can reserve either a hostel room (around €26 or the albergue €13.40) on booking.com. I had the albergue completely to myself with a nice comfortable kitchen with big TV. Carpintieras is also a bar but they do not offer dinner. As the kitchen was so comfy and I was so tired, I just got a pizza from a nearby supermarket and microwaved it.
Hostel Caracas. Nice and comfortable €24 via Booking.com.
You are living well… both Casa Pacita ( with José and his son José Luis) and Hostel Caracas are excellent places to spend a night. I walked the Invierno with my friend Emilio, in October and we really enjoyed meeting and talking with José and his son. It’s a beautiful walk over the old bridge and along the river getting there. José shared his homemade aguardienté with is and is a proud, engaging soul.Day 9 (yesterdays post only got posted today as well).
Rodeiro to Lalin. My favorite day so far. Woke up to frosty conditions and for the first time this trek, I felt like I was on a winter Camino. Sunshine and frost makes for such pretty scenery. A shorter day - only 25km so I could really relax and enjoy the day - so much of which is along forest trails, grassy tracks and very much farming communities - lots of muck spreading going on today! no facilities on route so bring a few snacks.
I’m staying a little bit off the Camino as you exit Lalin at Hostel Caracas. Nice and comfortable €24 via Booking.com. I noticed some bars and cafes open in Lalin and suspect there’s a supermarket also. There are a couple of restaurants near to me here and a cafe across the road for breakfast so happy days. I guess my Camino Invierno officially ends when I pass through A Laxe tomorrow and join the end of the Sanabrés. I’m hoping the albergue in Bandeira will be open as that’s where I plan to stay.
I’m not sure of the ladies name either but she was really nice and showed me where I could get dinner nearby. As for Jose Luis (I never met the father) I sampled his home made wine which was very nice!You are living well… both Casa Pacita ( with José and his son José Luis) and Hostel Caracas are excellent places to spend a night. I walked the Invierno with my friend Emilio, in October and we really enjoyed meeting and talking with José and his son. It’s a beautiful walk over the old bridge and along the river getting there. José shared his homemade aguardienté with is and is a proud, engaging soul.
I can’t remember the lovely women’s name who checked us into Hostel Caracas, but she was very hospitable… showing us a couple of rooms to chose from, pointing out a place to get a early morning café etc…we even ran into her later waking back into town with her partner! Just full of warmth and good wishes.
Many thanks @Trish K for your posts - great info. Will be walking the Invierno in May23. All the best and congrats. CooeeSo another Camino done. This was certainly different. Very solitary - but I’ve enjoyed every minute (when is wasn’t pouring with rain!). In summary, of the 14 days (13 nights) I’ve been walking, I found 4 albergues def open - the remaining nights I always found reasonably cheap alternatives without having to get transport anywhere.
My average daily spend on accom and food/drink was around €38 - this was slightly inflated by last nights €33 a night hotel - but on the plus side I got to watch England beat Senegal on the tv in the bar downstairs!
It did require more planning in terms of ensuring accom options were available etc, but not too much hassle.
It’s a beautiful Camino.
Hi,Thank you for posting! I'll be on the Invierno over Christmas holidays. I'm counting down the days
Your info is very helpful!
Hi Hektor, Welcome to the forum! I hope that you will find good information as well as virtaul firneds here on the forum. Post any questions you have, either here or in a new thread.i'm new here because i'm planning my trip at Camino Invierno.
Hektor, I walked in May 2018 and totally met 5 peregrinos, once, until A Laxe, so this camino is not crowdy in summer either. But locals are friendly. Buen camino!Hi,
i'm new here because i'm planning my trip at Camino Invierno. I hope I won't be alone on the trip because it says only few peregrinos are around at winter. Maybe we will meet because i'm planning to start on December 28th at O Barco de Valdeorras.
Buen Camino!
Would appreciate a link to this website - can't find it anywhere! And they're not on WhatsApp(?) Thanks in advance.Staying at Casa Pacita in A Ponte Barxa de Lor tomorrow, based on recommendations on this forum. Booked via their website.
Try pensionpacita@hotmail.comWould appreciate a link to this website - can't find it anywhere! And they're not on WhatsApp(?) Thanks in advance.
Ah - sorry - it wasn’t a website - I googled him and on the Google site it gives you the option to message him - that’s how I communicated.Would appreciate a link to this website - can't find it anywhere! And they're not on WhatsApp(?) Thanks in advance.
I could not easily walk an untraveled camino without WhatsApp. It has been a godsend on multiple occasions. But I hope I don’t come across as a WhatsApp shill! I have many good friends who shun anything facebook-related like the plague, but for me the benefits are too great.Thank you both. I know WhatsApp is only on mobiles, (or cellphones in the US) I finally caved in and bought one this year at peregrina2000's prompting! As she advised, very useful in rural Spain.
!
I’m gearing up for shorter distances, too, @Glenshiro. The combo of covid lockdown and being in my 70s means that my easy long days are over. I’m trying hard to keep a positive attitude, because for me there is no better way to smell the roses than to walk and walk and walk. My body has other ideas, and I will adapt!Thanks. Liked your reports on the Invierno - wish I could still walk those distances!
Yes, I've just hit three score years and ten, and taking it easier. Gone are the days when I would regard 25-30 km as an easy stroll!I could not easily walk an untraveled camino without WhatsApp. It has been a godsend on multiple occasions. But I hope I don’t come across as a WhatsApp shill! I have many good friends who shun anything facebook-related like the plague, but for me the benefits are too great.
I’m gearing up for shorter distances, too, @Glenshiro. The combo of covid lockdown and being in my 70s means that my easy long days are over. I’m trying hard to keep a positive attitude, because for me there is no better way to smell the roses than to walk and walk and walk. My body has other ideas, and I will adapt!
I remember, I think, that you had to stop the Invierno last summer because of the heat. Or was it something else? Are you planning a return? What kind of shorter distances are you talking about? Our thread on 25 km and less on the Invierno has a lot of good tips, I think. Don’t mean to derail @trish K’s live thread, though she has made it home by now and hopefully won’t mind.
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