Norte in May 2019

[CalgaryLynn]

Hi all - planning on walking next spring, that gives me a few months to plan and train. This is something I have wanted to do for years and not that work is behind me, I have the time.

 

[Kanga]

We walked it in 2016 in May. It was glorious. Buen Camino!

 

[Sobhano]

Hi Lynn,

I have just returned from an 18 day walk with my 16 year old son starting in Irun. We got as far as a village called Serdio, near San Vicente. We covered about 350 km but skipped Bilbao as we had already spent a couple of days there on our arrival by plane from Edinburgh.

We had a wonderful time, the scenery is fabulous. Very green. This whole region is famous in Spain for being being wet however it was during the heatwave in August so it was hot. This was ameliorated by following trails through abundant forests and coastal routes that take you past the most spectacular beaches. Well worth having your swimming gear to hand for a quick dip in the glorious clear sea!

A lot of pilgrim traffic has moved from the Route Frances to the del Norte. We found that accommodation in Albergues was not equipped to deal with the explosion of pilgrims that are opting for the Northern Route. This should not put you off as we found the wild camping option a great alternative. We slept out under the stars with our ponchos, roll mat and sleeping bag. I would certainly take a bivvy bag next time. This avoids the mad rush to get to the Albergue early to guarantee a bed and gives you a feeling of liberation not relying on the basic accommodation offered by the Albergues.

We also established firm friendships with other like minded pilgrims that chose to follow the road less travelled. These were the days, and nights, when one felt most truly connected with the pilgrim way.

The trail, especially the beginning is challenging and several pilgrims dropped out or transferred to the Route Frances after the first couple of days. So it's good that you are in training, however we spotted several elderly pilgrims who seemed to be getting on just fine. Slow but steady!

I believe the Camino becomes more rural after it reaches Gallicia, however we were certainly did not feel deprived of epic views and gorgeous landscape to immerse ourselves in.

And remember...travel light. We ditched several kilos of superfluous baggage after a few days. You will appreciate every extra gram you can shave off your pack.

Good luck

Kim

 

[ForrestUS]

Hello was very interested to hear about your experience I did the Camino Frances in May of this year and I'm curious about the Norte you mentioned that many pilgrims dropped out out in the beginning may I ask why is it due to the incline or the rough terrain could you elaborate for me I appreciate any feedback

 

[valevenga]

My son and I walked from Irún to SdC in June/July this year....there were definitely more pilgrims from San Sabastian to Bilbao.....then the numbers tapered off gradually.....until it met up with the Frances...I’m not sure why....people comment that the route is more difficult than the others but I did not think it was that difficult....challenging yes but certainly very doable... The northern coast towns were fabulous, not crowded at all...but certainly most of the pilgrims we met on the route were only walking for a week or two, hence they chose stages sandwiched between the airports or larger cities...Asturias (Gijón), Santander, Bilbao, and San Sebastián....only a handful were walking the entire route....

 

[Sobhano]

Hello was very interested to hear about your experience I did the Camino Frances in May of this year and I'm curious about the Norte you mentioned that many pilgrims dropped out out in the beginning may I ask why is it due to the incline or the rough terrain could you elaborate for me I appreciate any feedback

Hi Forrest
I think it was partly due to intensive nature of the first few days of the walk from Irun, the high temperatures and inexperienced walkers. We also met a couple of people with knee injuries, one lady on her first day out! The trail is quite steep at times but nothing too strenuous. However combined with having difficulty finding space at the Albergues, which were less well equipped and managed than others we had visited on the Camino Portuguese in Gallicia, it seems to have deterred some who chose to divert to the Camino Frances which has more pit stops and accommodation opportunities.
Nevertheless I would highly recommend the Camino del Norte and hope to complete final stages when I can next carve out some time.
Kim

 

[Sobhano]

My son and I walked from Irún to SdC in June/July this year....there were definitely more pilgrims from San Sabastian to Bilbao.....then the numbers tapered off gradually.....until it met up with the Frances...I’m not sure why....people comment that the route is more difficult than the others but I did not think it was that difficult....challenging yes but certainly very doable... The northern coast towns were fabulous, not crowded at all...but certainly most of the pilgrims we met on the route were only walking for a week or two, hence they chose stages sandwiched between the airports or larger cities...Asturias (Gijón), Santander, Bilbao, and San Sebastián....only a handful were walking the entire route....

Hi V,
I agree with you the Camino del Norte is eminently doable. I think it was the heat that did for a lot of people. But the majority carried on and I think brought us all closer having to endure the same conditions.
Interesting to hear of someone else who walked with their son. It was a very bonding experience for us.
Kim

 

[ForrestUS]

Hi Forrest
I think it was partly due to intensive nature of the first few days of the walk from Irun, the high temperatures and inexperienced walkers. We also met a couple of people with knee injuries, one lady on her first day out! The trail is quite steep at times but nothing too strenuous. However combined with having difficulty finding space at the Albergues, which were less well equipped and managed than others we had visited on the Camino Portuguese in Gallicia, it seems to have deterred some who chose to divert to the Camino Frances which has more pit stops and accommodation opportunities.
Nevertheless I would highly recommend the Camino del Norte and hope to complete final stages when I can next carve out some time.
Kim

Hi Kim thanks for your reply may I ask do you think the Norte is bikeable?

 

[Sobhano]

Very much so...a lot of bike traffic

 

[valevenga]

Lots of bikers....bike and walking paths weave in and out of each other so you’re many times seeing the bikers....met a wonderful Spanish father-son duo....they parked their car in Irún, rented two bikes, one an electric with a small trailer to haul all their stuff....they were not avid bikers but we’re having a wonderful time!

 

[valevenga]

Hi V,
I agree with you the Camino del Norte is eminently doable. I think it was the heat that did for a lot of people. But the majority carried on and I think brought us all closer having to endure the same conditions.
Interesting to hear of someone else who walked with their son. It was a very bonding experience for us.
Kim

Hi Kim....the weather, with few exceptions, was perfect throughout our walk....mostly cloudy, rain, drizzle....there were only maybe 3 days that were intolerable for me so I just left before sunrise with my headlamp in order to get to our next stop by noon....I honestly don’t think I could have completed the entire Camino had it not been for the overcast weather.....next time I will start walking in May....just to be sure....all the locals were complaining about the rain (all through June) as I am sure the Spanish tourists were staying home or heading south.....it was a real blessing to have shared the experience with my older son....For various reasons——all good——there were many days when we did not walk either part or the entire day together......that too was a blessing for the both of us....it’s been rough coming back though....just day dreaming about my next camino...

 

[CalgaryLynn]

Hi Lynn,

I have just returned from an 18 day walk with my 16 year old son starting in Irun. We got as far as a village called Serdio, near San Vicente. We covered about 350 km but skipped Bilbao as we had already spent a couple of days there on our arrival by plane from Edinburgh.

We had a wonderful time, the scenery is fabulous. Very green. This whole region is famous in Spain for being being wet however it was during the heatwave in August so it was hot. This was ameliorated by following trails through abundant forests and coastal routes that take you past the most spectacular beaches. Well worth having your swimming gear to hand for a quick dip in the glorious clear sea!

A lot of pilgrim traffic has moved from the Route Frances to the del Norte. We found that accommodation in Albergues was not equipped to deal with the explosion of pilgrims that are opting for the Northern Route. This should not put you off as we found the wild camping option a great alternative. We slept out under the stars with our ponchos, roll mat and sleeping bag. I would certainly take a bivvy bag next time. This avoids the mad rush to get to the Albergue early to guarantee a bed and gives you a feeling of liberation not relying on the basic accommodation offered by the Albergues.

We also established firm friendships with other like minded pilgrims that chose to follow the road less travelled. These were the days, and nights, when one felt most truly connected with the pilgrim way.

The trail, especially the beginning is challenging and several pilgrims dropped out or transferred to the Route Frances after the first couple of days. So it's good that you are in training, however we spotted several elderly pilgrims who seemed to be getting on just fine. Slow but steady!

I believe the Camino becomes more rural after it reaches Gallicia, however we were certainly did not feel deprived of epic views and gorgeous landscape to immerse ourselves in.

And remember...travel light. We ditched several kilos of superfluous baggage after a few days. You will appreciate every extra gram you can shave off your pack.

Good luck

Kim

Hi Kim - thanks so much for your summary of experience on the Norte. I am hoping to go May/June as I want to avoid the crowds. It sounds beautiful though and just what I am hoping for. I have read up on the trail so I am taking my training seriously. I am losing weight now to get some off my joints and doing yoga to increase my flexibility. I walk about 2 miles a day now with my dog but will start increasing that in the spring. I have a 10 week training plan that I got off the internet. I hope to be in shape for this and plan to take my time to start.

Can you go into more detail about the types of accommodations that are available? Did you see other options rather than the albergues. Are there other choices? I am not much for camping.

Lynn

 

[Ralph Ayling]

i am also planning on doing the Norte with my wife in May-June 2019. My research shows that there can be quite a lot of rain in May. I'd appreciate any comments on this from peregrinos who have walked it in May.

 

[Sobhano]

Hi Lynn,

I think you will be better served for accommodation in Albergues in May than in July/August which is the height of the season. I did notice that some of the Aubergue's were only open for these two months so it might be worth checking this in advance. These were usually in the bigger towns like San Sebastian which was a converted school gymnasium. With regards to alternative accommodation there are no shortage of these if you are prepared to pay a little extra but usually not too much. We always found there was plenty of advice as to other options with a range of private lets available along the way. We didn't have a directory or booked ahead and relied on word of mouth and tourist information centres on the few occasions when we chose to go private however I noticed some pilgrims were well armed with relevant information.

Good luck with the training.

Kim