Norte or Frances?

[rebedev]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning my second camino having previously done the Frances (and loved it!). I was going to do the same route again but am now tempted by the coastal scenery to reroute to the Norte.

I head out on the 19th Sept & have until the 19th of Oct to reach Santiago. Would anyone who has done both routes have any advice in terms of difficulty, atmosphere (I loved the communal aspect of the Frances) and how you found the quality & quantity of albegues along the way, considering the time of year?


Thanks

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning my second camino having previously done the Frances (and loved it!). I was going to do the same route again but am now tempted by the coastal scenery to reroute to the Norte.

I head out on the 19th Sept & have until the 19th of Oct to reach Santiago. Would anyone who has done both routes have any advice in terms of difficulty, atmosphere (I loved the communal aspect of the Frances) and how you found the quality & quantity of albegues along the way, considering the time of year?


Thanks

If you liked the communal atmosphere of the Frances I would do it again. On the Norte, while you will end up in albergues with people at the end of the day, the walk is a much more solitary one. In terms of difficulty the Norte is harder, especially the first week, but doable, especially if you decide to do shorter days that what you will find in most guides as suggested etapas. You will miss the meseta and wonder why anyone ever complains about it ;0)

The albergues vary in terms of "quality", just as on the Frances, but other than the munis in San Vicente de la Barquera, Santander and Santillana (all of which have alternatives near by) I did not find any (I went as far as Llanes) that I would not want to revisit. Some are impeccable, modern, or super historic etc., others more like the traditional albergue, offering all the commodities without luxuries.

You do have to be careful though since you will be walking in September because some albergues on that route are only open July and August. Do your research before leaving or risk having some really long days ahead of you. It's a beautiful route, you would not regret it due to the scenary nor the albergues, but it is a much lonelier route.

 

[rebedev]

If you liked the communal atmosphere of the Frances I would do it again. On the Norte, while you will end up in albergues with people at the end of the day, the walk is a much more solitary one. In terms of difficulty the Norte is harder, especially the first week, but doable, especially if you decide to do shorter days that what you will find in most guides as suggested etapas. You will miss the meseta and wonder why anyone ever complains about it ;0)

The albergues vary in terms of "quality", just as on the Frances, but other than the munis in San Vicente de la Barquera, Santander and Santillana (all of which have alternatives near by) I did not find any (I went as far as Llanes) that I would not want to revisit. Some are impeccable, modern, or super historic etc., others more like the traditional albergue, offering all the commodities without luxuries.

You do have to be careful though since you will be walking in September because some albergues on that route are only open July and August. Do your research before leaving or risk having some really long days ahead of you. It's a beautiful route, you would not regret it due to the scenary nor the albergues, but it is a much lonelier route.

Thanks so much for your reply! You're swaying me back towards the Frances! I think I'd really miss the communal aspect if it didn't exist on the Norte, especially as I am walking alone. As for missing the meseta really?! I thought I was going to lose my mind last time! Do you mind me asking how you found the route harder? The only difficulty I experienced on the Frances (besides extreme blisters of course!) was day one in the Pyrenees (which was also the cause of the blisters!!). The Norte seems to be a relatively flat route - perhaps I'm mistaken?

 

[Marc S.]

Agree that the Norte is more difficult during the first week untill Bilbao (many steep ascents and descents). I would definitely not call this stretch relatively flat. After that, I do not think it is fysically harder than the Frances. You will find the same variety of albergues on the Norte: some really special ones, many decent ones, and the occasional one you do not want to return to (Santillana del Mar and Santander were fine for me, by the way).
As for the communal aspect. I walked last August / September and there were always pilgrims around, in fact after Ribadeo it started to get rather crowded. Not comparable to the Frances, but still. I do not know how communal you want things to be. If you want to bump into 30 other pilgrims at every coffee break, the Norte is probably not your thing. Still, at night there were always many pilgrims around. And if you want to team up with others and start walking together, I saw people do it (I am more of a solo walker myself). But again, I dont know what your preferences are here.
Anyway. I walked both and I both loved them. Suppose expectations play a big role here. If you want to replicate your first Camino experience, you may be disappointed at the Norte. Then again, a second Frances may also not compare to your first one... If you enjoy walking along a sometimes spectacular coastline, and end your day with a swim in the sea, the Norte is a good idea. Well, curious what the decision will be.

 

[Marc S.]

In addition. If you like seafood, the Norte may resemble heaven.

 

[rebedev]

In addition. If you like seafood, the Norte may resemble heaven.

Thanks Marc, much appreciated. I may have been looking at overall starting/ending elevations and seeing little change in height - of course forgetting that could include huge ascents and descents in between! I've been looking at some more detailed elevation maps and see what you mean - there appear to be a lot of steep patches & have just ordered a guide book so fingers crossed it arrives soon. I adore coastal landscape so I think it's going to come down to this versus having many fellow peregrinos about... I don't want it to be a lonely experience! I like that on the Frances you can walk alone and still feel part of a group. Lots of thinking & investigation to do! Either way, I can't wait

 

[Houlet]

Probably my 2016 plan but I'm a bit concerned about the amount of tarmac walking.

 

[rebedev]

Probably my 2016 plan but I'm a bit concerned about the amount of tarmac walking.

That's a concern too - but my bigger fear is of having a lot of descents.... my feet still haven't recovered from the descent to Ronscevalles (completely my own fault - dreadful choice of footwear & a lack of preparation!) But all worth it in the end & I'm sure the spectacular views & dips in the sea would make up for the tarmac on the Norte!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Why not start the Norte and if it's too lonely, not social enough just jump on a bus or a train and head to the CF. To sway to the Norte, one word: FOOD. It is GOOD, very GOOD ;0) Marc S does make another excellent point, each Camino is different, even if you are walking through the same areas. My first had great weather and I met some interesting people. My second had great weather and I walked day after day with 3 other people which made the long walk pass faster. My thrid was in the cold and rain, day after day, after day, and all alone. All those on the CF. After the 3rd CF I opted for totally different and headed north and then the Primitivo, for both with the expectation of a lot of solo walking which is what happened. If you expect the same Camino you may be dissapointed, but then you'll learn to accept that as being another part of the Camino. Either way you can't go wrong, but did I mention the menu del dia on the Norte vs the peregrino menu? ;0)

 

[rebedev]

Why not start the Norte and if it's too lonely, not social enough just jump on a bus or a train and head to the CF. To sway to the Norte, one word: FOOD. It is GOOD, very GOOD ;0) Marc S does make another excellent point, each Camino is different, even if you are walking through the same areas. My first had great weather and I met some interesting people. My second had great weather and I walked day after day with 3 other people which made the long walk pass faster. My thrid was in the cold and rain, day after day, after day, and all alone. All those on the CF. After the 3rd CF I opted for totally different and headed north and then the Primitivo, for both with the expectation of a lot of solo walking which is what happened. If you expect the same Camino you may be dissapointed, but then you'll learn to accept that as being another part of the Camino. Either way you can't go wrong, but did I mention the menu del dia on the Norte vs the peregrino menu? ;0)

Great idea & a definite possibility. You both make excellent points as to every camino being different - I don't have any expectations per se and I'd be quite happy to walk the CF alone - I'm more craving the atmosphere than actual company so lots to think about! As for the food, you sound like a girl after my own heart! Who needs company when you've got great food

 

[Marc S.]

Probably my 2016 plan but I'm a bit concerned about the amount of tarmac walking.

Not sure if the amount of tarmac walking should be a major concern. As I remember it, it is about the same amount as on the Frances. Of course there is some major road walking near the big cities (Bilbao, Santander, Gijon) but you can skip this if you want to. Also the E9 coastal path runs almost parallel to the Camino for a while, so you can also change to the E9 every now and then. I think there were some threads on the E9 alternative in this forum in the past, so just search for E9 if you want to investigate this more closely.

 

[BillboBaggins5018]

Hello everyone, my name is Bill and I walked the Camino Frances back in June 2013 (SJPP to Santiago). The experience was a profound one that I could never have planned for. In fact all of my plans went out the window on day 1. One of the aspects of the journey that resinates was that it forced me to completely let go of day to day plans and trust that each day's experience would give me what I needed, not what I wanted. Since June of 2013 I have walked two additional times on the Camino France for 5 days each after business trips to Europe.

I would like to walk again for 35+ days and am considering the Camino Norte. I am quite introverted and it takes quite an effort (internal) to form close relationships. The three times I have walked the Camino forced me to trust in God's ways and let go (not my plan but his). The results were magical.

I know every Camino will be different and if I walked the Camino Frances again the experience would not be the same as it was the first time (I guess it comes down to that trust thing again....). I am looking for something that will challenge me (not a physical challenge but an internal challenge) and am wondering about what the Camino Notre would bring. I have heard that the coast is beautiful and that the food is great. I am not looking for a vacation but for something more meaningful. I'll take a look at other forum threads to see if I can get more information on what the Norte is like. If anyone wishes to share there advice it would be very mush appreciated.
Buen Camino and thank you in advance.

 

[AndreMande]

Hi, I am new in the forum, not sure this is the right way to ask what I would like to. I apologize if not. I am evaluating the possibility to walk either the camino frances or (Imwould prefer) the camino de norte) in October - for safety-related reasons I would like to join a group - do you know please where I can find info about this? Tks a lot Ciao Andre

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi, I am new in the forum, not sure this is the right way to ask what I would like to. I apologize if not. I am evaluating the possibility to walk either the camino frances or (Imwould prefer) the camino de norte) in October - for safety-related reasons I would like to join a group - do you know please where I can find info about this? Tks a lot Ciao Andre

You'll meet people at the albergue when you start walking, don't worry.

 

[AndreMande]

You'll meet people at the albergue when you start walking, don't worry.

Thank you very much for your answer. Do you think that this will be possible also on the camino del norte? I know that there are less people walking that camino, especially in fall.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thank you very much for your answer. Do you think that this will be possible also on the camino del norte? I know that there are less people walking that camino, especially in fall.

While you not be passing or pass by people non stop as on the Frances,the albergues will be filled with pilgrims. Solo walking, social evenings.

 

[Kanga]

If you stay in albergues it will be sociable. We stayed in other accommodation and did not meet many people.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Who needs company when you've got great food

Good company and good food may be better!

 

[AndreMande]

While you not be passing or pass by people non stop as on the Frances,the albergues will be filled with pilgrims. Solo walking, social evenings.

Thank you

 

[rebedev]

Good company and good food may be better!

Throw in some wine & I think we've found Nirvana

 

[Capt Rob]

Greetings everyone! My wife and I are planning our first camino. We will begin around Oct 16. We are trying to decide between the Frances and del Norte routes. We love the thought of coastal walking and delicious seafood but are concerned about availability of alburgues at that time of year. Also, are we missing out if you do the less traditional route? Thanks in advance for any insights!

 

[Marc S.]

Hello Capt Rob.

I have walked the Norte in August / September, but I think not all albergues will be open in October / November. On the following site you can check which albergues will be open in October / November: http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-del-norte
It is in spanish, which I do not speak, but under 'disponsibilidad' you can figure out if an albergue is open or not I hope this will give you an idea.

Your other question - am I missing out by not walking the Camino Frances ? - how to answer this : you always miss out on something regardless which Camino you walk. I walked both. On the frances you will definitely meet more pilgrims when walking in October and I guess there is more of a communal pilgrim experience there; also on the Frances you will pass more towns and monuments that have a historical significance related to the Camino. On the Norte you have other beautiful things. Oh, how to choose (why not walk both ?)

Hope this is helpful. Marc.

 

[Capt Rob]

Hello Capt Rob.

I have walked the Norte in August / September, but I think not all albergues will be open in October / November. On the following site you can check which albergues will be open in October / November: http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-del-norte
It is in spanish, which I do not speak, but under 'disponsibilidad' you can figure out if an albergue is open or not I hope this will give you an idea.

Your other question - am I missing out by not walking the Camino Frances ? - how to answer this : you always miss out on something regardless which Camino you walk. I walked both. On the frances you will definitely meet more pilgrims when walking in October and I guess there is more of a communal pilgrim experience there; also on the Frances you will pass more towns and monuments that have a historical significance related to the Camino. On the Norte you have other beautiful things. Oh, how to choose (why not walk both ?)

Hope this is helpful. Marc.

Thanks Marc! Looking at gronze site now. Walking both? I like the way you think!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

My .02.

In my opinion (for what that matters as your own mileage may vary), the ultimate walking Camino experience would be the Norte, then crossing over to the Primitivo. I say this because I think the best part of the Norte is in the first half, that's where you are cruising coastal towns the most. The second half has a lull of coastal views and then some more at the very end. Now the up down thing is real. I came back from the Norte and Primitivo and each time couldn't feel my toes so well for about 3 months. By combining the Norte for the first half and the Primitivo for the second you get a top notch coastal experience AND a nice Alpine experience.

Each time on these two routes my camino was more about the physical challenge. I met people along the way, but never established any lasting relationships. This was probably because I walk long and fast (completing the entire Norte from Irun to Santiago in 22 days).

The ultimate person experience is the Frances. I have about 19 facebook friends met on this route. None on the others. Even though I am long and fast there are enough other people on the route that there are other freaks out there with whom I built a community.

My advice to a first timer, if you are into the "mystique" of the Camino would be to start with the Frances. It has the most vending machines and laundry devices and a bunch of super interesting people from all over.

My advice to an adventurer would be to do the Norte, then cross over to the Primitivo.

Then go back and do the other, and the other, and do it again, and again.

Damien

 

[jesben1]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning my second camino having previously done the Frances (and loved it!). I was going to do the same route again but am now tempted by the coastal scenery to reroute to the Norte.

I head out on the 19th Sept & have until the 19th of Oct to reach Santiago. Would anyone who has done both routes have any advice in terms of difficulty, atmosphere (I loved the communal aspect of the Frances) and how you found the quality & quantity of albegues along the way, considering the time of year?


Thanks

If you like the communal aspect... I would stick with the Frances. the Norte is much less populated, which is what I loved about it, even the days with bigger hostels (30 beds) would make me feel overwhelmed and annoyed. I'm probably a bit more of an introvert which is why I enjoy less people. I really went more for the scenery, physical activity and culture. All of which I thoroughly enjoyed on the Norte. We probably joined maybe 3 communal meals the whole time, met some people here and there that we would reconnect with at various points, but alot of people just annoyed me haha, I enjoyed the solitude of walking alone, and sleeping in a relatively quiet room with 10-20 people.

Buen Camino!

 

[Johnsee]

Would concur having just finished the first 150k of the the Camino del Norte from Irun to Bilbao, very scenic and beautiful but much more difficult during the first week (many steep ascents and descents). It can be very quiet, few pilgrims on the route so unless you stay in Albergues you wont meet many fellow pilgrims....but but but..... it may me worth it if you like dramatic scenery into San Sebastien and the boat trip across the estuary at Pasai Donibane and the fantastic towns of Guernika and Bilbao.....

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

It may be more developed on the Norte now cf to when I walked both the Norte and the Frances (2012) BUT--I walked in off-peak months and many albergues were closed on the Norte (therefore longer legs and/or pensions/hotels); a lot less people on the road, the road was less well marked, and a lot less locals knew (or cared) where you might find the correct road, albergue, or a sello (Camino tourism is not so important). Spanish skill is not strictly needed, but a lot less English is spoken on the Norte. There is in my opinion more up and down climbing (even more if you divert onto Primitivo), and rougher trails, and longer stretches between services. Also much much more lluvia (pack a ball cap and good rain gear). I wanted solitude and a physical challenge so all of these were actually a plus. I thought both Caminos had history, beauty, great food, and generous locals.

Someone suggested you do both, or switch if not happy--and that's my advice. I had planned to zigzag since there were places I'd wanted to see on both (I sometimes refer to it as a very Gaudi Camino) so I started in SJPdP to Estella , took a bus to San Sebastián, walked until Oviedo, train to Leon, walk to ponferrada, train back to Oviedo, walk rest of Norte and Primitivo to the CF...public transportation is easy to arrange between major cities on both routes--and my Spanish is abysmal (if you do the Norte, I'd say learn a few polite words in euskera and maybe galacian, you don't NEED them but I think it's nice to say please and thank you in the native tongue, and some feel strongly about what that might be)

 

[Gregory Stegman]

Hello everyone, my name is Bill and I walked the Camino Frances back in June 2013 (SJPP to Santiago). The experience was a profound one that I could never have planned for. In fact all of my plans went out the window on day 1. One of the aspects of the journey that resinates was that it forced me to completely let go of day to day plans and trust that each day's experience would give me what I needed, not what I wanted. Since June of 2013 I have walked two additional times on the Camino France for 5 days each after business trips to Europe.

I would like to walk again for 35+ days and am considering the Camino Norte. I am quite introverted and it takes quite an effort (internal) to form close relationships. The three times I have walked the Camino forced me to trust in God's ways and let go (not my plan but his). The results were magical.

I know every Camino will be different and if I walked the Camino Frances again the experience would not be the same as it was the first time (I guess it comes down to that trust thing again....). I am looking for something that will challenge me (not a physical challenge but an internal challenge) and am wondering about what the Camino Notre would bring. I have heard that the coast is beautiful and that the food is great. I am not looking for a vacation but for something more meaningful. I'll take a look at other forum threads to see if I can get more information on what the Norte is like. If anyone wishes to share there advice it would be very mush appreciated.
Buen Camino and thank you in advance.

We are of the same mind set. I completed Frances and Le Puy. Now deciding between, Northern or Portugal. Let me know what replies you receive. Regards G