alansykes
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Except the Francés
One of the two versions of the Allerano variant of the Salvador leaves the Camino Olvidado near Boñar, going up the valley of the Curueño river. A spectacular valley, surrounded by majestic mountains catching the first rays of sun when I arrived there this morning.
The fast flowing river is a lovely pale emerald colour, with occasional flashes of silver. Just off the path is the mare's tail waterfall of Nocedo, crashing out of the side of the mountain on which San Froilán built himself a hermitage, with a bit of help from his pet wolf.
The path follows the narrow valley upstream for about 10km, with the high granite walls, and the riverbank lined by poplar trees still in their autumn glory.
There is supposed to be a footpath by the river, and for a few km there was, before it petered out. I tried bushwalking my way ahead for a few 100m, before being confronted with a smooth wet 45° wall in the Hoces de Valdetejera,
at which point commonsense fortunately put in an appearance and I backtracked to the nearest bridge and carried on by the road. Not much traffic at all, although I met a huge but friendly mastin out guarding his flock of goats.
After following the river's twisting course steadily upwards to 1200m with fabulous vistas on every side, suddenly the valley opened out and I found myself in a huge upland meadow, with the continous thunder of the river replaced by sheep and cow bells, whose "drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds".
Most places are closed for winter, but one number provided by Ender worked. It's a full chalet near Lugueros, and the landlord offered it to me for 50€ - his website quotes 140€, I think, so I wouldn't have bothered but for Ender. It was a weather-dependent provisional booking, but I couldn't ring to confirm as there was no signal in the valley. So it was a relief when a car stopped and the driver said "soy Eusebio" was it you that rang? - I'll go and put the heating on. So kind, and he's even made me a sandwich for tomorrow, as well as giving me some washing powder for the machine. And he's opened up specially for me as I'm the only person here. He seemed thrilled that mine was the first credencial he's ever stamped. Camino angels, camino miracles.
According to Ender, who is not given to hype, "mañana es la étapa más bonita de todo el camino y me atrevo a ponerla entre las mejores de todos los caminos." And the weather forecast is excellent. Yum yum.
The fast flowing river is a lovely pale emerald colour, with occasional flashes of silver. Just off the path is the mare's tail waterfall of Nocedo, crashing out of the side of the mountain on which San Froilán built himself a hermitage, with a bit of help from his pet wolf.
The path follows the narrow valley upstream for about 10km, with the high granite walls, and the riverbank lined by poplar trees still in their autumn glory.
There is supposed to be a footpath by the river, and for a few km there was, before it petered out. I tried bushwalking my way ahead for a few 100m, before being confronted with a smooth wet 45° wall in the Hoces de Valdetejera,
at which point commonsense fortunately put in an appearance and I backtracked to the nearest bridge and carried on by the road. Not much traffic at all, although I met a huge but friendly mastin out guarding his flock of goats.
After following the river's twisting course steadily upwards to 1200m with fabulous vistas on every side, suddenly the valley opened out and I found myself in a huge upland meadow, with the continous thunder of the river replaced by sheep and cow bells, whose "drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds".
Most places are closed for winter, but one number provided by Ender worked. It's a full chalet near Lugueros, and the landlord offered it to me for 50€ - his website quotes 140€, I think, so I wouldn't have bothered but for Ender. It was a weather-dependent provisional booking, but I couldn't ring to confirm as there was no signal in the valley. So it was a relief when a car stopped and the driver said "soy Eusebio" was it you that rang? - I'll go and put the heating on. So kind, and he's even made me a sandwich for tomorrow, as well as giving me some washing powder for the machine. And he's opened up specially for me as I'm the only person here. He seemed thrilled that mine was the first credencial he's ever stamped. Camino angels, camino miracles.
According to Ender, who is not given to hype, "mañana es la étapa más bonita de todo el camino y me atrevo a ponerla entre las mejores de todos los caminos." And the weather forecast is excellent. Yum yum.
