- Time of past OR future Camino
- Oct/Nov 2022_Mozarabe from Almeria
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In Merida now and wish I could have added Granada and Cordoba. Excited for you and your trip! Please continue posting, as I want to learn more about your Camino in preparation for a similar one of my own.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Buen Camino @OzAnnie !Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Annie, you’re a glutton for punishment. Buen Camino.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
I remember you from the Sanabrés in May.Annie, you’re a glutton for punishment. Buen Camino.
Fantastic.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Hi Annie sounds wonderful. I am leaving for Spain in 10 days. I wanted to walk the Mozarabe de Almeria but was given the impression it would be too difficult in this time of year. But sounds from you like all is possible?Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Good luck Annie, lucky you. I really want to do this route. Please do let us know how you ger along. Buen camino.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Good luck Annie I will not make it.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Buon Camino Annie! Looks fabulous! Wish I could be there but will be back in Spain next year! Keep postingLong story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Annie, you are a machine !! Have a great camino and look forward to your updatesLong story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
Buen Camino Annie, it's amazing you're going all the way to Mérida. From Almería to Granada will have a lot of hill climbs and corresponding descents, some are very steep. I'm told that after Granada the way becomes relatively easier.Long story - flight delays - missed connections etc. Arrived Almería train station just before 9pm on wed night (26th) & was met by wonderful Nely of the association Camino Mozárabe de Almeria. I will stay with Nely for 2 nights & start off on Friday 28th.
Already she has done so much for me. Taken me to Vodafone / later to Decathlon for poles .
Now she has dropped me at La Alcazaba. We have plans to meet with another peregrina at 1.30pm. There is a blessing at Catedral tonight at 7.30pm.
Weather. Hot. 27celcius. I have prepared with warm gear but I’m sure it will get cooler at some point further along in November. The next week looks perfect tho.
Pic below is where I meditated at the beginning of Alcazaba and sent this post from.
Hasta luego
Annie
When we were there on 22 September 2022, the water was green, and I wouldn't have been game to swim in it.Hot Tip for stage 1: the albergue in Rioja, which is not actually in a sports centre, but behind it, will have the swimming pool available for your personal use! At least, this is what I was told by a fellow pilgrim who stayed there about 3 weeks ago.
Good of you to post tips Marky. Will help all. I’m just reading them now as I sit having lunch 2pm at the bar at Sante Fé de Mondujar. (Too late for me tho/ I passed through Rioja. I did stop for cafe con leche etc. . Nely thought I was strong enough to walk here (Santa Fé)today. I did manage to notice the exit on right side of river bed as soon as you go under the bridge with the iconic Black bull on the left. That 2nd section was a bit dodgier than the first short section of dry river bed (DRB) before Pechina.Fantastic.
Hot Tip for stage 1: the albergue in Rioja, which is not actually in a sports centre, but behind it, will have the swimming pool available for your personal use! At least, this is what I was told by a fellow pilgrim who stayed there about 3 weeks ago.
Whatever you do, get out of the dry riverbed by bridge with the Black Bull on the hill. This will then take you through the orange groves instead of suffering added kilometres along the rough terrain of the dry river bed to Santa Fe de Mondújar. Ask Nely, she will explain. She also sent me a link for an excellent app for maps and routes for all caminos in Spain
Hi LisaHi Annie sounds wonderful. I am leaving for Spain in 10 days. I wanted to walk the Mozarabe de Almeria but was given the impression it would be too difficult in this time of year. But sounds from you like all is possible?
Excellent, you spotted the DRB exit sign!Good of you to post tips Marky. Will help all. I’m just reading them now as I sit having lunch 2pm at the bar at Sante Fé de Mondujar. (Too late for me tho/ I passed through Rioja. I did stop for cafe con leche etc. . Nely thought I was strong enough to walk here (Santa Fé)today. I did manage to notice the exit on right side of river bed as soon as you go under the bridge with the iconic Black bull on the left. That 2nd section was a bit dodgier than the first short section of dry river bed (DRB) before Pechina.
I was glad to get off the 2nd DRB section. Which brings you into Rioja.
I showed Nely the forum and she was excited to see posts by you MarkyD.
Also AJ. She had flattering comments AJ
Nely called ahead for me (to Eleana) / Albergue Posada (in between school arriving to Santa Fé. Rate E15 per person.
Looks like I have a 2 bed room to myself - air con / towels etc / private bathroom (for 2 beds ). Very comfortable.
Going well
X
Yes. That’s the one. Thanks AJ.If it's the one near the harbour, it's Ortuño's, where Nely took us to have lunch.
View attachment 135730
Be careful looks tricky and isolated Annie take care x. Mick how many Kms today.?Day 2
Santa Fé de Mondújar to Alboloduy
Since the bar in Santa Fé was open at 7.30 and it was still dark I changed my mind and had breakfast there. I’m glad I was fuelled as the climbs from Santa Fé were something ! But the descent into Alhabia was a doozy. Wow. As mentioned by AJ @AJGuillaume - I’m glad the amigos put in some switchbacks . The descents are not unusual but the surface on them makes the steps a bit tricky. Watch your footing.
Had a coffee break in Alhabia and bought sun cream (sun is still strong!) and some supplies for walking later and Sunday when the tiendas will be closed. The bar in Nacimiento will be open tho so no one will go hungry
2nd part of the day from Alhabia was beside the DRB on paved paths mostly. Sun was hot so very pleased to get to Alboloduy. Staying at the Almería association Albergue for peregrinos. A donativo albergue. 3 others here .
So tomorrow I note that the clock winds back here so sunrise will be around 7.30 instead of 8.30.
An excellent day peregrina. Rest well, because tomorrow "la etapa reina" awaits you! We also found it to be a good strategy to fuel up in the morning before embracing the hill climbs. The stage from Alboloduy to Abla was one of the hardest for us when we did it earlier in the month, partly because of the relentless sun and also due to the severity of parts of the climb. We saw wild mountain goats up there, and we wished were them at times!Day 2
Santa Fé de Mondújar to Alboloduy
Since the bar in Santa Fé was open at 7.30 and it was still dark I changed my mind and had breakfast there. I’m glad I was fuelled as the climbs from Santa Fé were something ! But the descent into Alhabia was a doozy. Wow. As mentioned by AJ @AJGuillaume - I’m glad the amigos put in some switchbacks . The descents are not unusual but the surface on them makes the steps a bit tricky. Watch your footing.
Had a coffee break in Alhabia and bought sun cream (sun is still strong!) and some supplies for walking later and Sunday when the tiendas will be closed. The bar in Nacimiento will be open tho so no one will go hungry
2nd part of the day from Alhabia was beside the DRB on paved paths mostly. Sun was hot so very pleased to get to Alboloduy. Staying at the Almería association Albergue for peregrinos. A donativo albergue. 3 others here .
So tomorrow I note that the clock winds back here so sunrise will be around 7.30 instead of 8.30.
A good decision. Santiago has a room in a house with half levels, it's quite unique.My plan had been on paper to walk to Abla but she suggested a stop a Nacimiento to break the stage into 2 rather than a hot slog with climbs (and you point out fording streams )
Yes - I’m looking forward to it AJ.A good decision. Santiago has a room in a house with half levels, it's quite unique.
Sounds and looks great! I wish I was there.Day 0 - Almería
Update on free day. While I was at the Alcazabar (which is not to be missed ) - Nely bought 2 sets poles from Decathlon (one set for me and one set for another pilgrim ). One set 2 poles = E12. Wow.
Basic poles but work fine. (You can’t equal that in Australia).
In one of the pics at the Alcazabar you can see they are laying out the ground (circles etc) in preparation of a new park area in it.
So many cats in this city..
We had lunch at a seafood restaurant (too busy chatting to take notice of the name. The other pilgrim (Katrina) lives in Asturias and was doing the section Granada to Cordoba but Quit at Baena because of the heat. @MarkyD I believe she walked with you.
Nely had to pick up another French peregrina returning to Almeria because of leg problems too. It can happen to anyone.
Nely also took me to the Cathedral to look around and made sure I was at the mass so that I could get a blessing for the camino. I was the only one.
Three of us (Michelle ,Nely and I ) enjoyed a drink nearby and tapas before returning to the Albergue. Fantastic tapas. Unheard of prices too / really great.
Yes the Almeria amigos !! They are 2nd to none.OzAnnie,
Between you, Marky, and AJG there seems to be a WisePilgrim app in the making, so comprehensive are your comments.
The ministrations of the Amigos sound amazing. What wonderful people.
Hi Annie,Thankyou soo very much for every tip/information about this stage @MarkyD
It makes me so much more confortable with my decision made (discussion Thursday with Nely). My plan had been on paper to walk to Abla but she suggested a stop a Nacimiento to break the stage into 2 rather than a hot slog with climbs (and you point out fording streams ) …. At first I baulked at the idea as I didn’t have enough days stored away /what with delays etc ) but took her advice on that stage and will walk Nacimiento to Abla on Monday 31st.
I will have to make later decisions of a couple of stages to shave off now due to flight delay and now making this stage into two stages. However., it will be good for meditation to take it easy. Sun is still cooking a bit. Not much shade etc. I notice in forecast that temps are getting slightly lower especially at night. Thank goodness. So I’m happy enough that I’ve not posted my warm gear ahead at this point.
Interesting to read about the water section being before Nacimiento tomorrow. I hope I don’t have too much trouble getting out of the DRB etc. I’ll report back for sure.
Btw. How is your daughter now ? Has she recovered ?
. Annie.
And Tocón de Quéntar, although seemingly isolated and without mobile network (unless you have a Movitel SIM card), is a quiet place, where you can rest and enjoy the scenery. The albergue is nice and well equipped.Another stage you might want to consider to shorten is the route from La Peza to Quéntar, although it´s a very beautiful stage and at a steady pace it´s perfectly achievable in one day.
Great to know, thanks. Also, Annie wouldn't necessarily lose another day, because Tocón de Quéntar to Granada would be perfectly doable in a day and it wouldn't be necessary to lug so much extra weight up those steep climbs!And Tocón de Quéntar, although seemingly isolated and without mobile network (unless you have a Movitel SIM card), is a quiet place, where you can rest and enjoy the scenery. The albergue is nice and well equipped.
The Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada angels clean it, and we got there the day after Paco from Guadix had cleaned it.
Here are a couple of photos from us walking that section of the "dry riverbed" to Nascimiento on 14th October this year.Btw @MarkyD
I mentioned to Mercedes tonight ; the water you encountered in the DRB earlier this month. She’s pretty sure it’s dry now.
Markythere was one local man who took great delight in telling us that we could have saved many kilometres by not following the yellow arrows! Mind you, I had that said to me a few times during my route to Granada. They often don´t get it, they would rather send us the easy and short route, which invariably means more asphalt and being close to traffic. Admittedly, there is little traffic to speak of in that area, but being in contact with nature is one of the attractions of the Camino, it´s not just about the destination, as you know.
Uff, sounds like you had a tough passage to Nascimiento. I guess that's why they call it "la etapa reina". Glad to hear you made it relatively unscathed, as some of those paths are quite narrow with a long way down to the bottom!Day 3
Hi from Nacimiento.
@MarkyD and @AJGuillaume
I’ve been flipping back to read your threads. !!!!!
I needed to read them a bit more carefully I think.
Today would rate as the hardest I’ve ever had. At the beginning of the day leaving Alboloduy I thought : Ha… too short to
Nacimiento- I’ll probably keep going. (Famous last thoughts ).
The river was definitely NOT dry / impossible to find tracks without getting muddy and soaking feet. (I notice in your thread AJ G (Andrew ) that you were warned by Nely of the condition of the trail and Santiago picked you up .
I would definitely have chosen walking the road at that point if I’d known how to find it. The signage on the river wasn’t really there much. I had to resort to what @MarkyD also did. Bushwhacking in and off the river bed. So many times there were fences which forced me back to the muddy trail in the river. I can’t count how many times I rolled my ankle clambering up or down the gravelly , slaty banks. Heading cross country in search of cutting a bit out but / “back to the river ‘ each time. I tumbled a couple of times and found it hard to right myself with the weight of my mochila weighing on me.
In despair around 2k nacimiento I headed right looking for a way to a road and found more fences. Called out for help a couple of times. The dogs didn’t reply … just barked. Eventually dragged myself into nacimiento around 12.15 pm !! Such slow progress.
The French pilgrim had moved further ahead when we were still in the mountain climb. I told him not to wait for me as I was going slowly uphill. He WhatsApp ‘d me from Abla to let me know that there was no more water after nacimiento. So tomorrow might be dry sailing.
Marvellous what a meal and a shower can do to the spirits though. I’m back to normal now. Sitting in the Bar Centro with a vino Tintowaiting for tapas to start at 8.30pm.
Sorry to post a complaining post but so many times I read people worrying about asphalt etc. It would have been a Godsend today.
The views were spectacular over the mountain though. Even though it was tiring; the sense of achievement was wonderfull.
Anyway. Tomorrow will be different again
Looking forward to it now that I’m rested.
Annie
Some pics. The mountain pics show the climb from way down below. Concentration required !! Some of those paths were narrow and loose. A foot trip and ‘bye bye’. No one would know !! Just realised I didn’t take any of the river section -(the pic with river was the easier bit prior to the climb ) the yukky difficult bit was after the mountain climb. I wasn’t feeling in a photo mood at the time.
My trail runners were a mess. So I washed them in the laundry tub. Tried to get them dry in the sun but still very wet. Can’t get old newspaper anywhere. I managed to buy a huge roll of kitchen paper E3 at the tienda beside the bar / to stuff the shoes overnight. Hope they dry out.
Nely told us that someone had to resort to a taxi. Turned out that it was @george.g , and he had the same issues as you did: after the climb out of the river, and then back down, he encountered a lot of water. Nely was concerned about my darling, and so was I, so we called Santiago at the turn off before returning down to the river.I notice in your thread AJ G (Andrew ) that you were warned by Nely of the condition of the trail and Santiago picked you up .
Until we got to the climb out of the river, we also bushwhacked.Bushwhacking in and off the river bed
All the water from Nacimiento to Alboloduy comes from Nacimiento.He WhatsApp ‘d me from Abla to let me know that there was no more water after nacimiento. So tomorrow might be dry sailing.
My suggestion is that you stop at Abla, and experience the 5 star albergue there. Yes, it's at the far end of town, but it's great. Until recently, there was a hospitalero (not while we were there), Ramón, from Tarragona.if you have lots of energy and time on your side by the time you reach Abla, then maybe you could go on to the next village at Fiñana
Tks AJ.Nely told us that someone had to resort to a taxi. Turned out that it was @george.g , and he had the same issues as you did: after the climb out of the river, and then back down, he encountered a lot of water. Nely was concerned about my darling, and so was I, so we called Santiago at the turn off before returning down to the river.
Until we got to the climb out of the river, we also bushwhacked.
All the water from Nacimiento to Alboloduy comes from Nacimiento.
View attachment 135852
If you go down to the river bed just under the fountain, you'll see the water gushing out. It's dry upstream.
My suggestion is that you stop at Abla, and experience the 5 star albergue there. Yes, it's at the far end of town, but it's great. Until recently, there was a hospitalero (not while we were there), Ramón, from Tarragona.
It's then a 20km walk from Abla to Huéneja. Take water with you: the stretch from Fiñana to La Huertezuela was dry and hot.
Two of the French are a couple, Serge and Carole. Serge owned the Caminoloc hiking equipment shops in Condom and Cahors, on the Via Podiensis. Serge is an expert on equipment, so if you have any doubts, ask him.Mercedes msgd just now to say that they are expecting 4 French , a Spanish person and me at the Abla albergue tomorrow.
Oh how wonderful. Serge is delightful. We met him in Condom in may this year.Two of the French are a couple, Serge and Carole. Serge owned the Caminoloc hiking equipment shops in Condom and Cahors, on the Via Podiensis. Serge is an expert on equipment, so if you have any doubts, ask him.
It'll nearly be a full house at the Abla albergue!
I think he has handed the shops over to Mahdi du Camino in Cahors, and to Philippe in Condom, so he can focus on his gîte, la Casa del Trel. But I could be mistaken. He may still have ownership.Oh how wonderful. Serge is delightful. We met him in Condom in may this year.
Sorry for the diversion but Andrew, you say ‘owned’. Has he sold the shop/s?
Merci Andrew. Will keep that in mind when next in CahorsI think he has handed the shops over to Mahdi du Camino in Cahors, and to Philippe in Condom, so he can focus on his gîte, la Casa del Trel. But I could be mistaken. He may still have ownership.
I would say it's still a wonderful Camino route, but nothing like the Camino Frances for the following reasons:G'Day Annie - all I can say is WOW. That track looked more like a Mars training run for NASA astronaughts.
You are to be commended for pressing on, not taking a taxi. Best wishes for the remainder of your Camino.
Wow Annie, that was definitely a hard day. I'm in awe of your resilience and positivity. Let's hope that you've easier days ahead. N xDay 3
Hi from Nacimiento.
Today would rate as the hardest I’ve ever had. A
Hi Mike.G'Day Annie - all I can say is WOW. That track looked more like a Mars training run for NASA astronaughts.
You are to be commended for pressing on, not taking a taxi. Best wishes for the remainder of your Camino.
The river bed onwards was dry ! Yippee. I’ll never complain about dry river beds .
The trail used to go under the carretera, and when we got there, we looked for the arrows. All we could see were big yellow crosses, so we, too, ended up on the carretera.I must have missed the arrow to take me back to the trail below at that point ., So found myself on the carretera into Abla.
Tks AJ.There's not a huge amount to see, except the main plaza, but we walked up the town to get the view
View attachment 135895View attachment 135896
The Mirasierra restaurant was the only place open on a Monday, so we didn't have a choice. Apart from cooking at the albergue, which we did in the evening.Tks AJ.
the way to the albergue passes under that arch., and continues quite high. I came down. And tried that restaurant in your pic but wasn’t very happy with it. I’ve wandered way way way down off the way and found a friendlier place (IMO). El Carmelo.
Back up the hill now.
Great to hear of your progress. Despite a bit of tumbling, you have made it in one piece. Yeah, the concentration always seems to waver when we need it most! By walking with someone else, we were able to help spot for each other. It was amazing how many things one would miss and the other would see it!Day 4 to Abla
The pueblo on a hill.
The albergue is a good climb after you arrive - I received the code for the albergue from Almería amigos earlier. All done now and wandering back down hill to see what there is to see. ??
Easy dry river bed most of the way
Nothing open in Dona Maria. ., same in Ocaña.. I popped in to get a coffee but the restaurant won’t open until 6pm so back to the DRB
Coming up to Abla there is a huge spaghetti junction of modern bridges etc.
You have to exit the DRB to come up to the road for a short way. I had my attention diverted for a couple of minutes as there was a deer on the carretera… I must have missed the arrow to take me back to the trail below at that point ., So found myself on the carretera into Abla.
Another tip: Don’t drop concentration anywhere. I was on this even stretch of road and reached into my front purse and missed a slight ridge in the asphalt (where they’ve added a new layer ). & over I went onto the road .. came down like a ton of bricks on the road (that happens when you’re wearing a backpack ) …
No injuries !!! Im being looked after.
So a good day !!
Annie
Pics. Last 2 are the dry river bed. No problem with that. The 3 pics before were of accomm at Nacimiento.. washing machine there too.
Restaurant from last night Nacimiento on leaving this morning. Breakfast there.
Ist pic is view from entrance to Abla albergue. 12 bunks. 3 sets x2 in 2 separate rooms. Only 2 coming tonight now. The 4 French are stopping in Ocaña (as advised by Nely ).
Also took pics of many olive trees dead (I guess water scarcity has a lot to do with this )
Huge bridge section not far from Abla.
Nely strongly suggested we avoid the municipal albergue. It is not run by the Asociación, and apparently is often filthy. She said we we should book a room at Casa Violeta, which we did. We didn't get to see either Violeta or her husband, but we spoke to them on WhatsApp. They have a key box next to the door. You'll love Casa Violeta!If you get the opportunity to spend a bit of time with Violeta in Huéneja, you´ll be amazed by what her and her husband are doing on their farm.
The albergue in La Peza is also a municipal albergue, and is not run by the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada. Paco told us they had put a heater in every room, and they were all stolen. If something isn't right, let the Asociación know, Paco is the closest and might come and fix things. He was on his way back from cleaning Tocón de Quéntar, and handed us (there were 6 pilgrims) the disposable bedsheets.The albergue in La Peza is an old school converted into a dormitory. They didn´t have any of those disposable mattress or pillow covers, so I hope you have a "silk liner" or something similar
If you want to stay at the Fundalucia albergue, which is the only alternative to the Hotel Quéntar, enquire early. We couldn't stay there because they were fully booked with a religious group.In Quéntar, assuming you stop there, which you may not if you stop at Tocón de Quéntar instead, I stayed in the only hotel in town. However, I later found out that there was a beautiful albergue there!
Great tips AJGuillaumeNely strongly suggested we avoid the municipal albergue. It is not run by the Asociación, and apparently is often filthy. She said we we should book a room at Casa Violeta, which we did. We didn't get to see either Violeta or her husband, but we spoke to them on WhatsApp. They have a key box next to the door. You'll love Casa Violeta!
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The albergue in La Peza is also a municipal albergue, and is not run by the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada. Paco told us they had put a heater in every room, and they were all stolen. If something isn't right, let the Asociación know, Paco is the closest and might come and fix things. He was on his way back from cleaning Tocón de Quéntar, and handed us (there were 6 pilgrims) the disposable bedsheets.
If you want to stay at the Fundalucia albergue, which is the only alternative to the Hotel Quéntar, enquire early. We couldn't stay there because they were fully booked with a religious group.
We were in La Peza on a Monday, so we didn't have much choice. We didn't like the state of the kitchen in the albergue, so we ate at the only bar open then, the Bar FernandoUncertain about place in La Peza. Bring alone I prefer not to shop and cook for one. But if there is no bar in any other place I may just have to.
If you decide on the full stage La Peza to Quéntar, then you'll need to take food and lots of water with you. There is absolutely nothing in between these two towns that are 27km apart. It will take all day, but hey, you have all day! It is a stunningly beautiful route and there will be shade in the pine forests. When you come down off the first mountain down on to the road, it then takes you onto a dry stream route that is quite rocky and undulating. I took the road route, signed for cyclists. I dropped back onto the rocky dry stream path for a bit to sit down and have a snack and change my socks. It's not too long before you get off the road at Puerto de Los Blancares - one of the few spots that you might get a phone signal.Wow - it’s so good getting refreshed tips from both of you AJ & MarkyD
MarkyD
1. Nely has called Casa Violeta for me. Hopefully she will confirm ok for tomorrow. Tues 1st.
2. Taken note of tip on directions Markyd
3 . Uncertain about place in La Peza. Bring alone I prefer not to shop and cook for one. But if there is no bar in any other place I may just have to.
4. Quentar or Tocón de Quentar. Still undecided.
@AJGuillaume
Thanks for your tips. Really appreciate them from both of you.
Halloween crazies out now so might retire early.
Oh, boy, that hurts - injuries or no.No injuries !!! Im being looked after.
@OzAnnieWow@OzAnnie, plain & simple...I'm in awe of you...tough lady.
All those tumbles...I want to send you some bubble wrap!
Unlike @VNwalking, the Mozarabe is on My List; although not in the short term I will definitely be referring to this thread when the time comes.
So glad you've had help & support both on the ground & here on the Forum. However at the end of the day, it's still you strapping on the backpack & clocking up the k's...amazing, well done.
Despite (or perhaps, because of,) all the ups & downs (literally & metaphorically), a cracking good read to boot!
Wishing you happy & smoother trails ahead.
Take care
I just edited it, but I'm not sure if you get notified of the changes. Apart from typos that I've corrected, I added some information about Ramón which I think people might find interesting.Wow MarkyD.
So helpful for me today and those who follow.
Ramón told me that many pilgrims walk back down through the town to continue, but he says you can go out from the albergue at the top somewhere and join up with the trail further ahead. Sorry. I don't have accurate info on that. No doubt you'll decide your own way. Buen Camino today and every day of your life. I look forward to hearing about the stage I skipped and seeing a few lovely photos tooThankyou Marky - I just read through your edit about. Ramón.
I’m having a coffee at the albergue now - 6.40am. Ready to go but will wait for better light around 7.10. I haven’t met Ramón. He hasn’t been to albergue yesterday or last night. Probably taking a rest on Halloween. I wish I’d met him.
Great pic of you and your daughter with Hospi Ramón in front.
A good message for living longer (his example/discipline of walking in the hills.) for his health.
. Annie
Ps. I’ve found that any edits made to a post after someone reads that post are not noticed or notified to them (at least not to me on my settings)., unless the reader notices a change and reads again. Tks.
Hi MarkyD. I’m in Fiñana having tostada and a 2nd coffee. Did you miss this stage ?Ramón told me that many pilgrims walk back down through the town to continue, but he says you can go out from the albergue at the top somewhere and join up with the trail further ahead. Sorry. I don't have accurate info on that. No doubt you'll decide your own way. Buen Camino today and every day of your life. I look forward to hearing about the stage I skipped and seeing a few lovely photos too
Yes, we skipped that stage to give time for my daughter's heel injury to recover. We gave it another go after a day's rest in Huéneja by walking to Alquife. However, that evening she decided she couldn't risk further damage and it was very painful. So the next morning Lacho took us to Guadix. So we missed the stage from Alquife to Guadix too. Oh well, maybe we'll go back and walk those two stages another time.Hi MarkyD. I’m in Fiñana having tostada and a 2nd coffee. Did you miss this stage ?
Manuel ., the other peregrino in Abla albergue last night was choosing to walk the other way you mentioned. Nely suggested it to him as he wanted to look at the pueblo Abrucena. You can see in the maps me screenshot that I am on the normal trail back downtown via Calle Real etc. The albergue is quite away closer to Abrucena than shows in this pic. So leaving the albergue you do see the flechas pointing right in that direction. He then will walk the road up under the autovía thru rotundas to meet up with marked trail on screen shot.
I felt the (back thru town ) marked way suited me.
Aaww, @OzAnnie , you're having a bit of a test it would seem. I must admit, I felt like that at times too. It does get easier, but not easy. Up ahead, Guadix to La Peza is beautiful, but there are some long inclines and descents, albeit on much nicer surfaces for walking on (except the "rock and gravel ski-slope" into La Peza). The last 7km are a real test for stamina and will power.Day 5. Abla to Huéneja
I arrived Huéneja & found first place for a coffee. Not great - had very little to eat - so tapa it had to be. Hungry so ‘ una más por favor ‘. Then to Casa violeta. I thought I had a problem with no hot water in the shower but had not found the ‘real’ shower. I hadn’t opened that door on right thinking it was a private storage room. Waited for Violeta to come up & find the problem . I had let the water run for a while (in rear bedroom shower )thinking it might take a while to come from the hot water service (boiler ). But still frío. Apparently that one doesn’t work !
So Violeta arrived and opened the (?storage door ! It was a shower and the water did get hot. ). Duh. Dumbo I felt. It is a really unusual residence. Exterior paint work and rooms all over the place. She was very helpful and brought her young 5 yr old son with her. I complimented her on her beautiful little girl. Uhmmmm. Long hair on a child doesn’t automatically mean a girl. Another foot in mouth. I still said her little boy was beautiful and she was happy with that.
The trail from Abla. It went really quickly to Fiñana (8klms). But the last 12.9 to
Huéneja kept on and on. They must all be mountain goats here. When I messaged Violeta to say I’d arrived - (you guessed it) I had to slog back UP the way I’d come down into the pueblo. No way was I going back to eat later. After shower - a siesta. I really needed it.
There was a little section of DRB before Fiñana but lots of it into Huéneja. I notice on Gronze now (too late) that there is a cyclist route - the trail is extremely tough underfoot after a while. A lot better than wet & muddy like into Nacimiento but tiring still. It was one of those “ are we there yet ?” sections. I even started talking to myself and saying : “Someone is playing a joke on me - these kilometres into Huéneja are stretching further & further”. @MarkyD - I wouldn’t come back to retrace this etapa ever. It would be a different thing if it was eg Fuenfría pass going over the mountains on camino Madrid. I had to miss that in 2018 due to snow. If I’m still on camino in the future - I ‘would’ return to complete that stage into Segovia. But MarkyD / just put the stage Abla to Huéneja off your ‘to do’ list.
On one section of the DRB today there was an incorrect flecha amarilla.. I followed it and the farmer explained that it was wrong / back to the DRB !!!
Sun was still hoteven though the temps read much lower than it was for AJ and Rachel and MarkyD. I really can’t conceive how anyone could walk this trail in the heat (DRB’s absorbing the heat too).
I haven’t taken any pics of Huéneja. A pic from the roof of Casa Violeta is all in this group.
There are a few pics getting closer to Huéneja where the landscape reminded me a lot of around Las Vegas - Nevada (where my son lives )
There was a pleasant spot in shade where I stopped to sit on bench and have a rest and drink, thinking destination was close. Just after that you’re whipped off to the right (would be easy to miss that one ) and into that long DRB into Huéneja.
The pic of pueblo on hill was coming into Fiñana. Another place where people are all mountain goats. I had an hour break there …. Then straight up when you leave the plaza / then straight back down !! The routing all seems like it’s a test
of pilgrim stamina.
I asked Violeta if the people in this region suffered many heart attacks She laughed and said it made them strong.
Re (Alquife) Albergue Lacho info MarkyDAaww, @OzAnnie , you're having a bit of a test it would seem. I must admit, I felt like that at times too. It does get easier, but not easy. Up ahead, Guadix to La Peza is beautiful, but there are some long inclines and descents, albeit on much nicer surfaces for walking on (except the "rock and gravel ski-slope" into La Peza). The last 7km are a real test for stamina and will power.
The good news is that Huéneja to Alquife is much easier and you'll see the fantastic castle on the hill at La Calahorra (which I believe might be open to the public on Wednesdays). Ferreira is a lovely town, worth stopping there for lunch or a decent second breakfast!
On the way to Alquife you'll pass the 100km waymarker, but it's not 100km to go, it's 100km since leaving Almería. There are some hills, but much easier than the early stages. Mind you, the final walk up to Albergue Lacho is up a long steep road. Why would it not be? The house has some interesting art work and he'll put the heater on for you at night (on a timer, of course). The hot shower is limited to 50L a go, after that you'll need to wait for it to fill up and get to temperature. The large, plane-glaze window in the bathroom means you get a lovely view over the town. I guess if a neighbour looks up, then they might get a good look at you too! The albergue Lacho has a large well-equipped kitchen, but no food stock to speak of. They can usually make an evening meal and breakfast for an additional charge, or you can buy your own stuff to cook there.
The opencast iron-ore mine makes for something different on the landscape as you approach Alquife. I don't know what else is in the town, because I was there on a Sunday and everything was closed. No doubt Lacho can advise you.
Rest well, sink deep into positive meditation and tomorrow will bring a new day. Buen Camino peregrina Anne from Oz
PS. Thanks for the tip not to do today's stage! Maybe I might try it on a bike, thereby avoiding the dreaded DRBs...
We didn't see any arrows pointing to Abrucena, so we just went back down the Calle Real, as you did.The albergue is quite away closer to Abrucena than shows in this pic. So leaving the albergue you do see the flechas pointing right in that direction.
Oh dear, I should have warned you! Sorry, @OzAnnie ! When we spoke to Violeta's husband on the phone, he explained to us that that shower didn't have hot water, and I assumed he or Violeta might have done the same...I thought I had a problem with no hot water in the shower but had not found the ‘real’ shower. I hadn’t opened that door on right thinking it was a private storage room. Waited for Violeta to come up & find the problem . I had let the water run for a while (in rear bedroom shower )thinking it might take a while to come from the hot water service (boiler ). But still frío. Apparently that one doesn’t work !
Yep. Same here. Are we there yet ... Glad my darling had stamina on that day...But the last 12.9 to
Huéneja kept on and on.
I agree.But MarkyD / just put the stage Abla to Huéneja off your ‘to do’ list.
We stopped in La Calahorra on a Wednesday. The castle is open in the morning, until 2 pm, and then opens again at 4pm. We had met a couple in Huéneja, Jojo and Aurora, and they visited the castle in the afternoon, and after the visit, continued to Alquife.The good news is that Huéneja to Alquife is much easier and you'll see the fantastic castle on the hill at La Calahorra (which I believe might be open to the public on Wednesdays).
We didn't stay in Alquife, but pilgrims we spoke to said that as the albergue was out of town, Lacho provides breakfast. And if you need a lift from Alquife to the albergue, he'll come and meet you.Re (Alquife) Albergue Lacho info MarkyD
I notice on the Mozárabe (Almería amigos site) they have this info :
Do you think it’s incorrect that they have a breakfast included. ??
————- Albergue Lacho ——-
16 € incluido Desayuno, Wifi, lavadora (2,50 €)
Thanks again for all the detail on stages ahead.
Annie
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