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There's a Decathalon in Ponferrada, at Av. de los Escritores, 3 if you think you are missing something.I’m on my way to Gatwick Airport to fly to Santiago this evening, embarking on my 3rd camino. Two years ago I walked from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago, and last August I walked from Porto to Santiago.
I was supposed to walk this camino with my mother, but she has a knee injury so I am walking solo, which is how I’ve walked my previous caminos.
We were supposed to walk from Sarria on this camino, as we didn’t think she’d manage to walk much longer than 100km. Now she’s not coming, I’ve extended it to 200km, starting from Ponferrada.
I’m excited to be walking this camino - I enjoy not knowing what each camino will bring….but I also have a few reservations: I’ve always walked in July and August, so not experienced relentless rain, which seems to be forecast for the next couple of weeks. When I previously walked the CF, I had one day of rain! I’m not sure if I’m fully equipped for the weather, so I may need to make some purchases along the way.
Not strictly a reservation, but it feels weird to be flying into Santiago tonight - normally I only each reach Santiago after at least two weeks of walking. It feels strange to land there, leave there and then walk back there!
Anyway, I’ll be pleased to arrive in Ponferrada and begin another camino adventure!
Thanks! I have a good poncho and bag protector so maybe I’ll be fine!There's a Decathalon in Ponferrada, at Av. de los Escritores, 3 if you think you are missing something.
Good waterproof Jacket / Poncho should keep most of the rain off. Make sure your backpack contents are well protected. Something dry to change into is far more important than staying dry while you're walking.
Enjoy!!
Oh blimey! I have lots of layers…hopefully that will suffice…Wrap up well! This was the view from the webcam on the albergue in O Cebreiro a moment ago.
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I think you will be pleasantly surprised if you hit cold weather how quickly your body will warm up when you are walking. When I walk in November I have warmer long sleeve with a hood, an outer layer and a very light (weight wise) down jacket. If it is above freezing without much wind I wear only the long sleeve hoodie and the outer layer. Yes I may start out feeling cold (I also have a beanie and gloves which I think are necessities), but after about 10 minutes I am fine. If it is really cold then I will wear my jacket too.Oh blimey! I have lots of layers…hopefully that will suffice…
Hi @LuisaR… I am staying at Villafranca tonight and am not looking forward to the walk tomorrow. We are staying at Casa Navarro in O Cebriero but I feel that the walk may be too much for me. I had a hard time today. I will be sending my backpack ahead of me to make sure I have no problems with the climb. If you are able please post your review on the places you are staying. I am one day behind youDay 2: Villafranca del Bierzo to Laguna de Castilla - 25.51km
I found today pretty tough. I was full of confidence as I sailed up O Cebreiro without too much difficulty a couple of years ago, but today, my legs didn’t have 100’s of km experience behind them!
I had leg fatigue quite early on in the day, so I knew it was going to be a tough ascent.
The positives are that the weather is glorious - perfect for walking - clear views, lovely company and great food.
I’m staying with my friends at Albergue La Escuela. I stayed here 2 years ago and loved it. I can’t convey what a relief it was to see the building up ahead.
Although I’m super tried, it’s also a great feeling to be so exhausted - I feel like I’ve really pushed myself to the limit.
We will be eating together in the restaurant and I’m trying to avoid having a siesta as I’d like an early night and a long sleep.
Hi @cbeckham - the place we are staying is not at the summit - it’s 2km from the top. It’s a wonderful place - dorm rooms and private rooms. Clean and warm with a good restaurant and bar. Good luck tomorrow!Hi @LuisaR… I am staying at Villafranca tonight and am not looking forward to the walk tomorrow. We are staying at Casa Navarro in O Cebriero but I feel that the walk may be too much for me. I had a hard time today. I will be sending my backpack ahead of me to make sure I have no problems with the climb. If you are able please post your review on the places you are staying. I am one day behind you.
Yes! There was quite a lot of cattle traffic today!Loved La Escuela, too. Saw our first "cattle drive" there in the evening. Grandma and a grandson moving the cattle with their clanging bells.
It happens. It happened to us even in January this year. You're doing the right thing at the laundromat. I would also let La Escuala know as well so they can be sure to check your room from last night. They are so hard to get rid of once they take up residence somewhere.Day 3: Laguna de Castilla - Triacastela 23.2km
Bed Bugs! I noticed I’d been bitten after my stay in Villafranca but tried to put it to the back of my mind, hoping it was nothing (I’ve had a bedbug scare before on a previous camino), but as the day has gone on, I’ve come out in rows of large puss filled bites, pretty much over every bit of exposed part of my body, including my face! I have informed the albergue but haven’t received any acknowledgement….
I am now sitting in a laundrette in Triacastela blasting everything I own (even my sun glasses case, poncho, purse) in the dryer.
I had to run to the chemist first to get something to soothe the bites as I’m worried they are going to get infected.
We have learnt from pilgrims a day ahead of us about an albergue they stayed in last night in Triacastela also have a bed bug issue - they woke up in a similar state to me.
It’s been a rough day physically and mentally, but I somehow still managed to appreciate the beautiful scenery and lovely friends that I’ve made.
My legs are so, so tired - I didn’t expect this and it’s taught me a lesson that no matter how many caminos you’ve walked (not that I’m a veteran!) you can never be complacent.
Thanks so much! I will give my belongings another blast when I get to Santiago.It happens. It happened to us even in January this year. You're doing the right thing at the laundromat. I would also let La Escuala know as well so they can be sure to check your room from last night. They are so hard to get rid of once they take up residence somewhere.
Will you go to Samos or the other way to Sarria tomorrow?
@LuisaR what albergue in Triacastela is having the bed bug problem? Crossing my fingers it is not where I am stayingDay 3: Laguna de Castilla - Triacastela 23.2km
We have learnt from pilgrims a day ahead of us about an albergue they stayed in last night in Triacastela also have a bed bug issue - they woke up in a similar state to me.
I’m afraid I don’t know the name! It was message sent to a friend from pilgrims who were a day ahead of us and I didn’t catch the name - I just knew it wasn’t the one I was in!@LuisaR what albergue in Triacastela is having the bed bug problem? Crossing my fingers it is not where I am staying
The place we stayed at in O Cebriero had an ant problem. They got into everything…
It can take a lot to get them under control and the minute you do, a pilgrim may walk in and bring them again. They can hide under wallpaper, in ceilings, where pipes go into the wall, in a Crack in the floor or wall, etc and evade fumigation attempts.Day 4: Triacastela - Sarria 18.2km
It was pouring with rain this morning, and just as we left from breakfast, a hail storm started, so there wasn’t any discussion about which route to take from Triacastela - the shorter route was unanimous.
My morale was really low yesterday - the bed bugs and aching legs were getting me down, but after a good nights sleep (thanks to some red wine and an antihistamine!), I felt great today, despite the weather!
Lots of us went out for a meal last night which was great fun - I love meeting people from all around the world on my camino travels.
Fortunately, it only rained for half of our journey today - not that I was too fussed, but I definitely prefer dryer weather! It was a beautiful walk through forests and the hills.
A few people have walked past Sarria which i can understand, firstly because it’s Sarria (!) and also it was a relatively short day, but it has made one of my friends sad as it’s her camino family who have walked on, and she’s been with them since St Jean.
Bedbug update: they are now puss filled blisters and look awful, especially the ones on my face, but the medication is making them less itchy.
I looked at reviews for the accommodation I picked these up in, and despite it having a very good score on booking.com, if you dig a bit deeper, people have been complaining about bedbugs there since last year.
They haven’t responded to my message, so it seems they want to ignore the issue.
I’m off out now to meet a friend and find some food in Sarria.
If you are not vegan, be sure to have some Arzua cheese! Yum!Day 7: Palas de Rei - Arzua 28.9km
I rarely walk further than 25km on my camino travels, but knew that if I paced myself well and the weather wasn’t horrendous, I’d manage today’s distance with ease.
It was a beautiful day of walking - the sun shone but it was crisp, fresh and misty this morning.
I had convinced my camino friend to go at an easy pace and to have lots of breaks. We had breakfast at a stop in Casanova, a brief sit down a few km’s on, drinks and a long rest in Melide, and lunch in Boente. After a brief final drink stop in Ribadiso, we made the final ascent into Arzua.
My friend fell over twice today - leaving her albergue in the dark she misjudged a step, and on our walk today she managed to land in the mud! Luckily she wasn’t injured and we both saw the funny side.
Another friend has blisters from wet socks/shoes after the very wet weather yesterday, so she said a tearful goodbye to us in Melide, where she’s going to rest-up until she can walk again.
I had lots of energy today and my legs feel strong. It wasn’t until I lay down on my bed on arrival in Arzua that exhaustion has hit me - I haven’t moved since I got here!
Thanks for this. I will be doing this distance when I walk in May and have been a bit nervous about it. Your post has helped me enormously. I will make sure I take plenty of breaks and was planning on a long stop in Melide.Day 7: Palas de Rei - Arzua 28.9km
I rarely walk further than 25km on my camino travels, but knew that if I paced myself well and the weather wasn’t horrendous, I’d manage today’s distance with ease.
It was a beautiful day of walking - the sun shone but it was crisp, fresh and misty this morning.
I had convinced my camino friend to go at an easy pace and to have lots of breaks. We had breakfast at a stop in Casanova, a brief sit down a few km’s on, drinks and a long rest in Melide, and lunch in Boente. After a brief final drink stop in Ribadiso, we made the final ascent into Arzua.
My friend fell over twice today - leaving her albergue in the dark she misjudged a step, and on our walk today she managed to land in the mud! Luckily she wasn’t injured and we both saw the funny side.
Another friend has blisters from wet socks/shoes after the very wet weather yesterday, so she said a tearful goodbye to us in Melide, where she’s going to rest-up until she can walk again.
I had lots of energy today and my legs feel strong. It wasn’t until I lay down on my bed on arrival in Arzua that exhaustion has hit me - I haven’t moved since I got here!
Thank you for your daily updates! I am one day behind you and will be completing my first Camino tomorrow. I would have loved to have walked the whole Camino but alas.. the reality is I only had a limited amount of dates. So after 12 days, starting from Leon, I will be ending my walk tomorrow. Thank you again! I enjoyed your daily updates!Day 9: O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela 19.4km
We left at 6.15am this morning, and a flashlight was very necessary to navigate through the forest in the pitch black!
I was so eager to get to Santiago, but tried hard to stay in the moment and enjoy the final stage.
We stopped for breakfast in San Paio and another drinks stop at Barrio San Lazaro.
I was quite emotional when reaching Santiago - I think more so for my camino friend, who has walked all the way from St Jean. I easily recalled the overwhelming feelings of accomplishment having walked so, so far.
We were greeted by some camino friends in Plaza del Obradoiro - it was great to see them again.
For the first time, I’m staying in the heart of the old city, very close to the cathedral and I love it!
I need to buy some flip flops as it’s really warm and my trainers shrunk in the tumble dryer during bedbug-gate.
This has been a wonderful camino. Although I have missed walking a longer distance, I have learnt a huge amount in walking for just 9 days.
Until next time…..
Thanks @cbeckham - I hope you’ve had a great camino! Walking from Leon is amazing - well done!Thank you for your daily updates! I am one day behind you and will be completing my first Camino tomorrow. I would have loved to have walked the whole Camino but alas.. the reality is I only had a limited amount of dates. So after 12 days, starting from Leon, I will be ending my walk tomorrow. Thank you again! I enjoyed your daily updates!
I’m walking from Samos in May. I’m also staying at a hotel near the bus stop and yes it does feel odd flying into Santiago and that is why I’m not venturing into the city. I’m bussing out to Samos. Your posts have made me even more excited. Have a great Camino.I arrived at Santiago airport from London just before midnight last night and had a taxi booked to my hotel, close to Santiago de Compostela train station. I had a few hours sleep before heading out this morning. I was originally going to get a train from Santiago to Ponferrada, but I had a message from Renfe saying that the journey was going to be half by bus and half by train - I presume there are engineering works going on. To save the hassle of getting on/off trains and buses, I decided to book a coach from Santiago bus station to Ponferrada, which didn’t involve any changes. The journey was lovely, especially the latter part, with lots of greenery and some snow capped mountain views.
The coach took 4 hours and I arrived in Ponferrada at midday. It has been pouring with rain non-stop since I arrived! I walked around a little bit (trying to remember when I was here 2 years ago but not with much luck!), I’ve had some food and a siesta.
My first day of walking is tomorrow, and the weather forecast looks dry. I’ll be leaving at sunrise, which fortunately, isn’t too early!
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