jkontheway
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances (2018)
Kumano Kodo (2019)
Portugues (2020)
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Buen Camino ! I spent last Christmas in Porto and had planned to walk to Santiago end of April., hope toHello! After walking the Camino Frances in 2018, the Kumano Kodo in 2019, I am back for a third... the Caminho Portugues.
I have been living in Lisbon this year, and with all that is going on in the world, I feel incredibly fortunate to still get to walk, without leaving the country. I just arrived in Porto, to this beautiful view.
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I'll be starting my walk on Saturday, and have a full 16 days. I'm planning a mix of coastal and inland, and will be posting daily updates on here as I go!
Send my regards to Miquel frome. Tell him I will be back in Feb 2021! Buen CaminoView attachment 82852
Picked up my passport - wow, they sure look a lot more modern than the Frances ones!
There are lots of arrows in Porto, and lots of routes to choose from. I'm still undecided which way I'll go tomorrow - I'm tempted to start along the coast as I hear the first day out of Porto on the central route isn't that nice. However, I was told that the monastery albergue in Vairão is really worth staying in... so I'm torn. Guess I'll go wherever the Camino takes me!
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I'm staying in Albergue de Peregrinos Porto tonight, and it's lovely! A huge garden with lots of fruit trees. I might have enjoyed a fig, or two... It is the season after all. There seem to be about a dozen or so people staying here, more than I expected.
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Can't wait for tomorrow's adventure!
I’m sooo jealous. My plan was to walk from Lisbon to SdC then Finisterre about now but this damn virus made leaving Australia impossible. Enjoy your Camino.Hello! After walking the Camino Frances in 2018, the Kumano Kodo in 2019, I am back for a third... the Caminho Portugues.
I have been living in Lisbon this year, and with all that is going on in the world, I feel incredibly fortunate to still get to walk, without leaving the country. I just arrived in Porto, to this beautiful view.
View attachment 82791
I'll be starting my walk on Saturday, and have a full 16 days. I'm planning a mix of coastal and inland, and will be posting daily updates on here as I go!
.View attachment 82852
Picked up my passport - wow, they sure look a lot more modern than the Frances ones!
There are lots of arrows in Porto, and lots of routes to choose from. I'm still undecided which way I'll go tomorrow - I'm tempted to start along the coast as I hear the first day out of Porto on the central route isn't that nice. However, I was told that the monastery albergue in Vairão is really worth staying in... so I'm torn. Guess I'll go wherever the Camino takes me!
View attachment 82853
I'm staying in Albergue de Peregrinos Porto tonight, and it's lovely! A huge garden with lots of fruit trees. I might have enjoyed a fig, or two... It is the season after all. There seem to be about a dozen or so people staying here, more than I expected.
View attachment 82854
Can't wait for tomorrow's adventure!
No tent for me - just playing it day by day and seeing where I get to! Today was beautiful weather, even too hot at 30C and sunshine!.
Do you book your accommodation from one day to another or are you going to take what comes next ? Tent maybe?
I wish you a beautiful weather !
Enjoy your well deserved rest ! The sunset is surely going to be beautiful!No tent for me - just playing it day by day and seeing where I get to! Today was beautiful weather, even too hot at 30C and sunshine!
When I got to Matosinhos the pedestrian bridge was closed, but luckily there was a free shuttle transporting people.
Hi Wendy! I just looked it up for you - the bridge is called Ponte móvel de Leça and according to Google reviews it closes (or well, technically it opens up) quite often. I think it's either for damage repair or to let ships through. It's quite well marked to find the shuttle, and it only takes about 10 minutes and seems to come quite often. I don't know if there is an alternative path... unless you end up taking the central route from Porto.Do you know why the bridge was closed, or when it is expected to reopen? I'm not OK with taking a shuttle so will have to rethink our plan for that day if it remains closed.
Thank you! That's helpful - I will call tomorrow morning! Was it a tough walk? It'll take me about 2.5 hrs to get to Rates from here, and then I can cross into the central route and continue on to her place. It'll be another long day!I left the coast at Vila do Conde and crossed to the central route. Barcelos is a lovely town and I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, but you should call ahead to reserve there.
Good luck! Annoyingly Google Maps doesn't show there is anything wrong.Thank you for looking that up! That makes sense, as the name would indicate that it's a moving bridge. Probably to let ships through. I'll try to find out if there's a schedule posted somewhere of its opening/closing times.
Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)
As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.
I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!
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Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.
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Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.
I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).
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Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!
Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!
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It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!
Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!
You can always go to Casa da Fernanda from Barcelos. That's what I did, splitting the walk from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima. If you walked 40 km on your first day, you are due a few short days.Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)
As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.
I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!
View attachment 82935
Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.
View attachment 82934
Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.
I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).
View attachment 82936
Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!
Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!
View attachment 82938
It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!
Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!
where did you sleep in Barcelos, please?Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)
As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.
I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!
View attachment 82935
Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.
View attachment 82934
Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.
I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).
View attachment 82936
Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!
Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!
View attachment 82938
It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!
Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!
True!! I actually walked past her and continued on to Ponte de Lima, but maybe next time!You can always go to Casa da Fernanda from Barcelos. That's what I did, splitting the walk from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima. If you walked 40 km on your first day, you are due a few short days.
I did the same and loved the coastal route but also was happy to go inland. I had a great time in Barcelos.I left the coast at Vila do Conde and crossed to the central route. Barcelos is a lovely town and I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, but you should call ahead to reserve there.
@jungleboy and I are also vegan, so I can share our experiences/tips on finding food. You're right, it's very rare that you will find vegan options on menus in traditional Portuguese restaurants. But I've found that if you ask nicely, the owners are happy to whip up a plate of vegetables and rice, and maybe some beans or black-eyed peas. Nothing fancy, but it's filling and nutritious.Food has been tricky for me. I started eating vegan two years ago (after the Camino Frances luckily!), and I'm really struggling to find options in restaurants.
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Gréât ! Where are you staying ? It is precious to have your info about the accommodation if you don’t mind !And some more pics from ponte de lima! What a beautiful place!!!
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Wendy! Thank you thank you. I've been doing the same as you in terms of supermarkets, but never thought to actually ask the restaurants! I am so craving beans, chickpeas, and all the legumes...I will be sure to ask next time (tomorrow). As for Spain, hell yes to patatas bravas! Love those. I can't wait for some gazpacho/salmorejo soon, will be looking out for it now I'm in Spain!@jungleboy and I are also vegan, so I can share our experiences/tips on finding food. You're right, it's very rare that you will find vegan options on menus in traditional Portuguese restaurants. But I've found that if you ask nicely, the owners are happy to whip up a plate of vegetables and rice, and maybe some beans or black-eyed peas. Nothing fancy, but it's filling and nutritious.
Otherwise, sopa de legumes and other soups are often vegan, and you can always get several side dishes like fries, rice, salad, etc. The albergues that offer meals have also been happy to make us something vegan.
Our normal routine on Camino is to pack a picnic for lunch and then eat dinner in a restaurant or a communal albergue dinner. All the albergues seem to have closed their kitchens this year due to the pandemic, so cooking for yourself may not be an option.
If you pass by an Aldi, or even better a Lidl, take advantage and stock up on things like tofu and hummus, which you won't find in smaller shops like Mini-Preço. Continente also has hummus and even some Veganz products, but we've had no luck finding tofu there, at least not in the Continente Bom Dia stores.
Once you cross the border, you'll have more choices when ordering straight off a menu. Paella de verduras, parrillada de verduras, gazpacho, patatas bravas (sin mayonesa) and pisto are all pretty common in Spain. For more suggestions, see the blog post linked in my signature, which I wrote after walking the Francés in 2017. You can also check my Camino Portugués highlight reel on Instagram: www.instagram.com/nomadic_vegan. We're several days behind you, as you know, but it may give you some meal ideas!
I just crossed into Tui and just walked right in. Not sure about Galicia.Do you know the process when crossing into Galicia does the accommodation there provide you with a locator form to fill in?
Wow! 50km is a bit much. I don't know yet - I am indeed worried the boat might not be running... I suppose I still have until Pontevedra to decideThe bread fairies are a nice touch!
You have set an amazing pace for yourself, @jkontheway. It took me seven days to get to Tui, but of course, you have the advantage of youth! I met a woman in France who was walking from Geneva to SJPP, covering 50 kilometers a day. She said she was always hungry!
Buen Camino into Spain. Pontevedra and Padron are interesting stops. Are you planning to take the Variante Espiritual? I thought it was a beautiful addition to the Camino Portugués, especially the Ruta de Pedra y Agua part, and it takes you back to the coast. I was able to take the boat up the river to Padrón. Maybe that is closed now due to the pandemic.
Thank you for the photos!
Ignore my dead brain - not sure what I was trying to say there. But basically there were no forms or anything. Masks seem to be compulsory though, as opposed to Portugal.I just crossed into Tui and just walked right in. Not sure about Galicia.
Oh no. Not a good thing to be twinning on. I have plantar fascitis too! Under the feet has been really helpful, and I also recommend stretching them out with a towel! I also found it helpful to roll the ball against the fibula bone of the calves.I carry a lacrosse ball too! Though I haven't tried rolling it under my feet. I have plantar fascitis, and I do exercises with the ball to loosen up the fascie in my legs, which seem to be the root cause of the pain in my feet.
It works well enough to keep my pain levels manageable, but I could never do the long days you're doing. I can't believe you're in Spain already!
Yes please! Would love that. Let me know when you're back.Thank you, I will try that! It does seem like we have a lot in common LOL. I'm sure you'll be long gone by the time we reach Santiago, but we should try to meet up when we're both back in Lisbon. Maybe at one of the many great vegan restaurants in the city. Buen Camino!
It depends whether you have time. The Variante Espiritual is longer, adding 41 km. If the boat isn’t running, the walk upriver to Padron is reportedly a bit of a slog.Day 5: Tui - Redondela. 35km.
Beautiful day apart from a few high way stretches. There was one split where there was actually an option to avoid the road and go through the forest instead which was beautiful. Really enjoyed today's walk and it was perfect weather too. Rain is on the forecast for the rest of the week so let's see how that goes..
Tomorrow will reach Pontevedra- wondering whether to take the spiritual route or the regular Central! Any recommendations?
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Thank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that.It depends whether you have time. The Variante Espiritual is longer, adding 41 km. If the boat isn’t running, the walk upriver to Padron is reportedly a bit of a slog.
I haven’t walked the central route through Caldas de Reis, so can’t compare, but I really enjoyed the variant out to the coast, over a mountain and back to the coast again. I would recommend it.
Somewhat tough for me, probably not too bad for you. The reward going down the other side, following mountain streams on their way to the sea, is well worth it.Thank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that.I also suppose there are less albergues... Was the mountain a tough climb?
Day 5: Tui - Redondela. 35km.
Beautiful day apart from a few high way stretches. There was one split where there was actually an option to avoid the road and go through the forest instead which was beautiful. Really enjoyed today's walk and it was perfect weather too. Rain is on the forecast for the rest of the week so let's see how that goes..
Tomorrow will reach Pontevedra- wondering whether to take the spiritual route or the regular Central! Any recommendations?
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Thanks for the pics!How is the accommodation so far? I am really interested in knowing the places you stay in at night , especially in Covid times knowing who is opened or notThank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that.I also suppose there are less albergues... Was the mountain a tough climb?
I inquired in the Pontevedra tourism office today and supposedly the boat isn't going during the rain...the weather forecast is not great for the next few days! So I will not risk it, and take the central route instead. Next time I hope!Somewhat tough for me, probably not too bad for you. The reward going down the other side, following mountain streams on their way to the sea, is well worth it.
So far I've been staying in private albergues, no municipal ones. Some are open, some are closed. I've been booking through Booking.com every time, and often I'm the only one (or one of few) there. People are really happy to see some tourism! I'll be happy to send you a list of all the places I stayed at the end, but would rather not post where I am sleeping each night on an internet forum.Thanks for the pics!How is the accommodation so far? I am really interested in knowing the places you stay in at night , especially in Covid times knowing who is opened or not
Thanks
You are really walking fast ! Well done
sure i understand! yes if you have time to send me a list of the places you stayed in private mail!i am 67, needs to plan a bit , i dont like to book in advance but appreciate to have a list where to rely to!!So far I've been staying in private albergues, no municipal ones. Some are open, some are closed. I've been booking through Booking.com every time, and often I'm the only one (or one of few) there. People are really happy to see some tourism! I'll be happy to send you a list of all the places I stayed at the end, but would rather not post where I am sleeping each night on an internet forum.
Yes of course. Will be more happy to share at the end! And I hope to still be walking when I'm your age!!besides ! your shorter walk for me would be the longest one !! i walk an average of 18/20!! Also being quite a dreamer , i dont push myself!Good for you!
Thanks! And on this forum there so many people my age and older who are so fit and full of stamina ! It gives hope isn’t it ?Yes of course. Will be more happy to share at the end! And I hope to still be walking when I'm your age!!
We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?Bom caminho! I’ll be following your progress as well.
I walked that same route in October/November 2019, including the Variante Espiritual, which is really lovely.
“Walk with your heart and embrace your Camino”
We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?
Are you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?
Casa da Fernanda is open all year roundAre you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.
Which town is Casa Fernanda located?Are you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.
About half way between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima, at Lugar do Corgo. Not actually in a town.Which town is Casa Fernanda located?
Lugar do Corgo isthe name of the houseAbout half way between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima, at Lugar do Corgo. Not actually in a town.
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