I went alone, and then at Le Puy met up with a group from Quebec and walked with them on and off for the 12 days I walked. There were other pilgrims walking, but on the alternate route to the Abbey Bonneval, I walked alone for two days. I saw no other pilgrims.
Much as I love the french cooking, I had to watch my budget, and was glad to have a chance to cook for myself and with others.
I did not always call ahead to reserve, as I was only one person, and ready to cook for myself (or just eat bread and cheese and fruit for dinner). I did call ahead when I knew where I was staying.
I was impressed with the campground at Saugues (its on the far side of the village). There are a few little wagons with beds for rent. There are also tent sites, washing machines and dryers, clothes line and warm showers. I met up with some friends there who were car camping in early October, and there was only one other family there.
I walked the alternate Bonneval Route, and stayed in Condom d'Aubrac at the village community center. I had to call ahead to the village office. I stayed there overnight-- there was a kitchen, but I hadn't known about it and had no food to cook. The woman in the village office (mayor?) opened the community center for me, and also contacted the cafe owners who opened the cafe up and made me dinner, breakfast the next morning, and a picnic lunch. I slept on a gym mat in a small room. There were no showers, but there was hot water to wash in. I left a 10 Euro note with the key in a drop-off box the next morning. I wish I could have donated more. (Of course, the cafe charge was separate.)
I had also called ahead to the Abbey Bonnevale. -- Beware of chestnuts on the path while you are walking in the wet Fall! They are treacherously slippery. They lie there in wait by the thousands. I had to walk VERY slowly the last two km to the Abbey, and still fell three times pretty hard.
I also recommend staying at
http://www.hospitalite-saint-jacques.fr in Estaing.
There were days of sunshine, and also days of rain and mist and rainbows.
Kate