- Time of past OR future Camino
- Oct/Nov 2022_Mozarabe from Almeria
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Day 4
Phew -still hanging in!
Hi OzAnnie,
Sounds like you are having a good Camino so far. Thanks for the useful info. We will be about one week behind you, also not rushing.
I hope we wont have accommodation problems as I really dont like the idea of booking ahead.
Go well.
Buen Camino
Hi there Mendi. I am. Very much aware I am in your zona. Not sure I will be lucky enough to meet you tomorrow as is a working day for you I am currently moving along with 3 pilgrims (USA. UK and Iceland )
Yes sure is hard. But what you see on walk makes it so worthwhileHola
Hang in there
First week on Norte is special and you are right that nowhere on Frances there is a stretch comparable.
Buen Camino
Lettinggo
Very welcome jumpingin2014. You would already know that 'the more the merrier'After reading this I am going to quit my job and join Annie on the Norte. Anyone care to join me ? I wish!!!!! Thanks for sharing this is so neat reading your notes Annie!
Buen Camino
The Altamira cave is limited to 5 people at a time. The visitors are chosen by a draw. I don´t know if the visit is daily. It is guided and max. time is 35mins.
Ondo Ibili !
The Altamira cave has been recently opened to a very limited amount of visitors ( 5 visitors). The visits will be limited and controlled till Feb. 2015 when experts will decide whether to open the cave to visitors or not.
http://www.elmundo.es/ciencia/2014/09/12/54131dc9e2704e9b2f8b458c.html
Ondo Ibili !
Hi RicksterHi Annie, I'm also on Norte in beautiful town of Ribadesella. My timing has been a little off. The sea was calm so I missed seeing the bygones or blow holes after Pendueles. It was still beautiful. Also missed seeing the Tito Bustillo Caves here because they are closed on Monday and Tuesday. I am also happy to say I have missed all rain so far, knock on wood. There are some great towns just ahead of you..
Comillas- Gaudi designed home, Marquis mansion,etc, San Vicente, Llanes, Ribadesella . Following a forum tip I stayed in a private room just over the bridge from Unquera. Take a right and go slightly uphill to restaurant El Rincon de Bustio, where you inquire about rooms. Pilgrim rate of 34E for great room just next door in apartment building. Also food at restaurant is multi star. Hope that your body recovers so that you can enjoy this great Camino. You are almost in Asturia.
Buen Camino
Rick
Next day we walked to Pendueles and the following day to Llanes............then continued along the roads to Pesues where we stopped for lunch at 13.30.
The extra 1.5kms needed to return from the hotel to the camino would have made walking to Unquera a longer day than we wanted. It was nearly 15.00 when we finished lunch, so we completed the journey to the Rio Deva ll, at Unquera, by taxi.
Annie, the route sounds wonderful. Hope the shins get better. Sounds like a bit of tendonitis. Try changing shoes, maybe wear sandals, for a while. If it is it's a repetitive strain injury and sometimes resolves if you can change your gait.[/Q
thanks kangaApparently Tito Caves are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. At least that's what I was told when I arrived on Monday.
Hi LaurieHi, Annie,
Enjoying your posts so much. I agree with those who say you probably have some tendonitis -- it's probably all the asphalt that did it. Someone once told me you can't get tendonitis walking on off-road surfaces because your foot strike varies with every step, unlike on pavement. Not sure if that's true, but I always search for off-road patches of dirt alongside roads.
One thing you might try is ice after walking. Go to a bar with a plastic bag, sit outside and ask for some ice cubes in the bag with your drink. I do it all the time, never a problem. I think the rule is that you shouldn't leave the ice on your shin longer than 15 minutes at a time, but I find it has great curing (and preventative) powers. I do it on any camino with a lot of asphalt. Elevation of the feet is also good.
If you're in Villaviciosa now, you have made or will soon make the decision about staying on the Norte or heading down to the Primitivo. You can't go wrong, which way are you going?
If you head towards Oviedo, I highly recommend a detour to visit the church at Valdedios, so beautiful. Buen camino from way across the ocean. Laurie
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Hey ho. NeveAnnie, just now realizing you are out there on the Norte, thank you for the email letting me know or I. Would have missed this wonderful adventure. i just read your posts aloud to my kiddos, drooling for more.
Buen Camino!
Neve
Very helpful AdviceI had to tape my shins last year - shin splints from walking too fast the 2nd day on the road of the Camino Ingles. Another pilgrim told me to use sports tape (or duct tape, but that would hurt coming off) and wrap at least 2x around the leg, once at the base of the calf muscle (but above the Achilles tendon) and also around the biggest part. Her reason was that shin splints are caused by the calf muscle working too hard and not allowing the shin muscles to engage, so they get tired and sore. Taping pulls the muscles together to help everything engage. I looked pretty silly and ended up with some awesome tan lines, but taping plus some ibuprofen really helped, as the 3rd day was our longest and toughest. I don't know if your issue is shin splints, but if it is, I hope this helps! I'll be on the Norte later this month!
Also Laurie.
Re choice of staying with the Norte. Wouldn't you agree that the climbs would be more taxing on the primitivo ( trying to choose the most sensible option (I know there are many who will say I'll miss a beautiful primitivo ) but if I hurt my leg anymore it may be 'that's all '
Annie
Also Laurie.
Re choice of staying with the Norte. Wouldn't you agree that the climbs would be more taxing on the primitivo ( trying to choose the most sensible option (I know there are many who will say I'll miss a beautiful primitivo ) but if I hurt my leg anymore it may be 'that's all '
Annie
I never felt "fit", you know the Norte kicked my bootie on more than one occassion. I just like to walk long days so it kind of hid that someHey ho. Neve
Well it's wonderful. Only thing that could make it better would be to be as fit as you and injury free and maybe a little more company. But if I had more company I wouldn't have had the Spanish practise and french and German I've had. I've been having lessons for some time at home and my profesora told me to 'solo habla espanol' It's too easy to use English !
As I've walked beside some of the beaches in past few days I've thought of you 'making your way from cliff to beach ' 'collecting your glass'
No way could I have done that on top of getting from A to B. (This time anyway )
Also thought you will have a much better time next time with the children. I think that would be tops!
Annie
Stunning pictures!I'm trying to select a couple of pics from hundreds but not sure if it will work
I've included hotel Carlos 1. In Villaviciosa
There is a small restaurant the stage after Miraz where there is ONE table...the meal I ate there will forever stay with me.Stay on Norte Annie as Laurie said.
There is a nice place just out of Ribadeo , 7km , which allows the following days to be easy walking.
You will have to stop @ Miraz as thats the long one if you miss there but they helped many with transport when it was full.
Its a lovely stop and hotels are the go after you leave Ribadeo.
The Frances will be full when you arrive in Arzua , you will hear them from afar Annie,
Take your time and enjoy mate,
David
Thanks Mendi
I asked about them at Santander tourismo. He said they were free on Sundays but from sept on the close at 3pm. So after finding accommodation there wasn't really a lot of time to walk the. 2 ks out there.
Also a German lady mentioned that they don't open the real ones to the public The ones you see are good but not the actuals. Quoting here say only.
Annie.
Very old quaint place here at santillana del mar
Hi, Annie,
Enjoying your posts so much. I agree with those who say you probably have some tendonitis -- it's probably all the asphalt that did it. Someone once told me you can't get tendonitis walking on off-road surfaces because your foot strike varies with every step, unlike on pavement. Not sure if that's true, but I always search for off-road patches of dirt alongside roads.
One thing you might try is ice after walking. Go to a bar with a plastic bag, sit outside and ask for some ice cubes in the bag with your drink. I do it all the time, never a problem. I think the rule is that you shouldn't leave the ice on your shin longer than 15 minutes at a time, but I find it has great curing (and preventative) powers. I do it on any camino with a lot of asphalt. Elevation of the feet is also good.
If you're in Villaviciosa now, you have made or will soon make the decision about staying on the Norte or heading down to the Primitivo. You can't go wrong, which way are you going?
If you head towards Oviedo, I highly recommend a detour to visit the church at Valdedios, so beautiful. Buen camino from way across the ocean. Laurie
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I heard about the Camino Olvidado from the hospitaleras in Pobena. I notice your pictures are from that route. I would love to learn more about it if you don't mind. Perhaps a new thread?
hi joeOzAnnie:
When you leave Baamonde make sure you bring food for the night to cook. Miraz has a nice Albergue but no food. There is a bar but only sandwiches. It is a short day so no need to leave early.
The monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes is an interesting stop. If you get there early, do not shower till after 4:30. The hot water is off until then. Lots of restaurants to choose from here. Then the Frances, I walked through to Salcedo but that is 34 km's. I wanted a shorter day to Santiago and happy I made that decision. It rained the entire day.
Glad to hear you are holding up. Wish I was walking with you.
Ultreya,
Joe
Must tell you about Casa Carmen
2 klms further on the Mondonedro but it isn't in the Cicerone guide.
I was told about it but Mondonedro was my limit yesterday. This morning I came upon it and had breakfast here
Magic stop. There were 3 pilgrims here from 2 nights ago
Carmen is an artist. It is donativo
Sells art. Accom for approx 8
She cooks dinner and bfast. Has her own garden makes her own jam and honey
After walking Camino realised she did not want to continue working for NGO 's in sth America as anthropologist. She feels now there is much magic in the world to all of us who are open to it
Stop off and have a coffee. She may be away from 16th oct for a week though
Annie.
That's so good to hear Annie. What an experience you've had! Still, you always come up smiling.I think I'm down to about 140ks. I feel good.
OzAnnie:
When you leave Baamonde make sure you bring food for the night to cook. Miraz has a nice Albergue but no food. There is a bar but only sandwiches. It is a short day so no need to leave early.
The monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes is an interesting stop. If you get there early, do not shower till after 4:30. The hot water is off until then. Lots of restaurants to choose from here. Then the Frances, I walked through to Salcedo but that is 34 km's. I wanted a shorter day to Santiago and happy I made that decision. It rained the entire day.
Glad to hear you are holding up. Wish I was walking with you.
Ultreya,
Joe
OzAnnie:
When you leave Baamonde make sure you bring food for the night to cook. Miraz has a nice Albergue but no food. There is a bar but only sandwiches. It is a short day so no need to leave early.
The monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes is an interesting stop. If you get there early, do not shower till after 4:30. The hot water is off until then. Lots of restaurants to choose from here. Then the Frances, I walked through to Salcedo but that is 34 km's. I wanted a shorter day to Santiago and happy I made that decision. It rained the entire day.
Glad to hear you are holding up. Wish I was walking with you.
Ultreya,
Joe
I hope I don't sound like an eternal nay-sayer! When I stayed at Sobrado in 2013 the section of which Mike speaks was closed, with only the kitchen area and washing machine area in use. I stayed there in 2009 and it certainly was much lighter than the other dormitory areas. The door leading out to the field [and clothes lines] was locked at night time by one of the monks. The shower area, walls and all, was hosed out early in the morning, so it was difficult to find a place to put clothes without getting them wet.I stayed at Sobrado in 2010, the main albergue room is a more modern addition to the complex, wooden floors, a kitchen, two doors one leading to the cloisters and the other an open field area and there are a few windows giving a slight light feel. But the other rooms, which I stayed in one of them are dark and dingy with a lot of damp going on. If you are among the 1st 60 pilgrims you will be in the better room, the next 60 go into the other.
Good Luck
Hi OzAnnieHi there Mendi. I am. Very much aware I am in your zona. Not sure I will be lucky enough to meet you tomorrow as is a working day for you I am currently moving along with 3 pilgrims (USA. UK and Iceland )
We are tonight in Lezama Still short of Bilbao in morning Uk guy needs new boots. as his are broken .
Had the best night in Lezamo. Dinner was around 20 pilgrims and 11 nationalities
I've been given nickname 'skippy. ' as I'm the only Ozzie in group
Not sure if I mentioned yet? French man today was bitten to the bone by Rottweiler dog and is in hospital. An English lass with us was there watching it and was in shock for herself.
Dogs were not on leads and on a walk
Gernika is well worth time if you have it.
Annie
Hi OzAnnie
I am Aussie as well, wondering how you got to Norte start.
I will be starting 1st November , but still unsure best way to get there.
ie: brisbane to madrid then train to Irun, or brisbane to Biarritz then bus to Irun.
I did camino Frances Oct 2013 and am really excited to get back on the Camino.
Any advice would be a big help.
Cheers
Yarma
Hi yarmaHi OzAnnie
I am Aussie as well, wondering how you got to Norte start.
I will be starting 1st November , but still unsure best way to get there.
ie: brisbane to madrid then train to Irun, or brisbane to Biarritz then bus to Irun.
I did camino Frances Oct 2013 and am really excited to get back on the Camino.
Any advice would be a big help.
Cheers
Yarma
thanks JulieAnnie, the albergue at Miraz is lovely - light and open. I arrived a couple of hours before opening time but it was no hardship to while away the time chatting with other pilgrims in the bar.
Don't be too perturbed about the need to cook. Walking alone has its advantages and I had two invitations to dinner - of course I had already accepted the first one when the second was offered!
I had intended to stay at the Monastery in Sobrado and again hung around chatting until opening time. Walked in with a couple of others, registered, went to the dorms and found them rather cramped and dark. The four of us left and went to a private albergue - again it was light and open.
The first half of this year was tough going on the elderly parent front which is perhaps why I was attracted to the light, open places rather than the heavy, darkness of stone which I usually find cosy and atmospheric. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the private albergue but there is directional signage to it and I just wanted to let you know that there was another option to the Monastery if you wanted it.
Thanks AlanHi Annie
What Joe says about no food available in Miraz was true a while ago, but the bar there now has basic foodstuffs available for purchase for cooking in the albergue. There are no meals available in Miraz as there are no restaurants, so the only hot meals will be cooked in the albergue kitchen, which IMHO is the best kitchen I have seen on any camino.
Sobrado Monastory is a great stay, but be aware that it shuts the doors at 13.30 for 3 hours so it is a brisk walk from Miraz if you are to arrive by then. The doors reopen at 16.30 which is when most people will book in. By the way, the bells which sound like they are directly above the dormitory stop tolling at 22.30, and resume next morning at 7.00.
Alan
Be brave. Life is joyous.
I did both...I ventured to Oviedo and so happy I did, and then worked my way back up to the Norte.Its hard to sell the Norte, its bit like Vegemite, you either can't stand it or you love it. A lot of pilgrims I met on the Primtivo this year were glad to have turned of it at Oviedo, but the section from Ribadeo to Sobrado is really beautiful.
Hi MikeI can not verify if this is the case, but in the latest CSJ quarterly, it mentioned the problems they had at Miraz with not complying with the Galacian/Spanish tourism requirements, they had a visit from the police to see if they had ( by law) a complaints forms, this was after a peregrino went to them because miraz would not give him breakfast at 4am. I was talking to someone from CSJ at the latest Camigos get together, and seems that checks are quite strict and frequent from the Galician authorities, it is possible that the pilgrims in the overflow suffered slightly from the need for Miraz to stay within the law.
Hi Annie. Miss you and wish I was there with you. We sure had a good time together and thank you for all these information you put in here. Take care and love from IcelandViews blocked today by fog which only lifted at 11.30am
Gorgeous day
The forum and Camino bring all the world together Runa.Hi Annie. Miss you and wish I was there with you. We sure had a good time together and thank you for all these information you put in here. Take care and love from Iceland
Thanks for the link Mike. I also have a plan to possibly start walking from Madrid up to Gijon then down to SDC. I need to get act together as I plan to be there 1/11 ... ppffttHi, try this link for travel within Spain to Irun www.caminodesantiago.consumer.es/como-llegar/a-irun
If you can fly direct to Biarritz then it is very easy to get to Irun, the train goes to Hendaye and is a short walk over the Ponte St Jacques and into Irun and the albergue. This is the traditional start to the Norte.
Hi JillHi Annie really enjoying your snippets from the norte ..it is a very special camino and brings back great memories. We also had many different languages spoken ! Then also we enjoyed talking English again at Miraz! We too loved the Galicia part felt good to be in mountains again..and by then you are really fit. How was all the signage - we managed to get a bit lost inadvertently a couple of times. Cheers Jill
Hi AnnieHi Jill
It's catching up with me now !
Even with the earlier etapes in bus when I couldn't take weight on my foot I've still walked an awful long way. I think my legs and feet have been reading the guide book and know SdC is close. , and are 'folding up' ! Today I really needed that midday break. Found a dry spot and took shoes off and raised the legs on my backpack. When it's hot you really get a bit wobbly and tired (I do anyway ).
I know it wasn't a huge distance ( 22 k ? I think ??) but for some reason I felt it. No cool misty morning. Sunny all day. the blisters are just starting. , so you're thinking every time your foot moves.
I tried to book San Martin Pinario for arrival on Sunday No individual rooms left only doubles. E40
Which compares ok with the quoted accom in cicerone guide
Annie
Hi MaggieHi Annie
I've been following your journey on this forum all through September. It sounds really fantastic. If you remember I saw you in Pasajes . I was walking with Jenny and we were only walking for a week to Deba. It is also good to hear of Runa , who we met in Orio. Hearing your story just encourages me to want to get much further on with el Norte in 2015. Congratulations for hanging in all the way. Love Maggie
There were 915 compostelas today, so those pilgrims are likely to be at the mass tomorrow. Fewer tourist visitors may make it less crowded than today. Good luck, and congratulations!I think tomorrow should be less packed.
Dear Annie. I am so happy for you. Wish I could have been there with you. Who knows if we meet somewhere again and take a walk together, I would love that.Made it in to Santiago de Compostela this morning at 9.45am
I have my 3 certificates.
My compostela
My certificate of distance
(Both these from the pilgrim office on arrival )
And the special certificate issued for 2014 by Franciscan
Got to pilgrim mass by 11.25 and it was already overflowing for midday !
Managed a spot on the step
I think tomorrow should be less packed. Today being a Sunday had many extra tourists and others adding to the huge numbers of pilgrims
Annie
Where will your next Camino be Joe?OzAnnie:
I never had a doubt you would make it. Congratulations and maybe I will see you on a future walk. Only 6 more months to my next walk.
Ultreya,
Joe
Where will your next Camino be Joe?
Dear Annie. I am so happy for you. Wish I could have been there with you. Who knows if we meet somewhere again and take a walk together, I would love that.
Take care and have a safe journey back home.
love from Iceland
JoeAnnie:
I will be walking the Portuguese in late March or early April. Whether I walk from Lisbon or Porto will be decided by how many days My wife will let me take^^ and how long I can be away from my Granddaughter.
How about you?
Ultreya,
Joe
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