St Jean to Roncesvalles One Day or Two?

[caminodharmabum]

This is a long, tough walk. We did it in July 2018. I benefited from an old thread on this forum so wanted to update the question for others. My wife, 14 year old daughter and I were walking St. Jean to Pamplona in July. Wasn't sure if we should try to do the St Jean to Roncesvalles leg in one day or two? Read various opinions on this. We opted for two days. For us it was a great decision. The walk was one of the most beautiful experiences of our lives. The weather was beautiful: sunny, cool (65F / 18C at midday). The scenery is ridiculously awesome--green, green hills, blue sky, white puffy clouds. We were slowed down by taking hundreds of pictures. We departed St Jean around 9 am. Walked to Hunto, about 5 km. Dismal people there. Wouldn't even let us stamp our passports. Got some coffee and water; pushed on soon. Walked to lunch at Orisson. Great food, lovely people, beautiful scenery. It's a steep walk to Orisson. Signposts say 2 hours from St Jean--that's very ambitious. Took us about 3 hours. IF YOU PLAN TO WALK ALL THE WAY TO RONCESVALLES, GAS UP WITH WATER AND FOOD AT ORISSON. THERE ARE NO OTHER CAFES, ALBERGUES, ETC. DIRECTLY ON THE NAPOLEAN ROUTE UNTIL YOU REACH RONCESVALLES. There was a food truck just before the Spanish border, I think at Croix Thibault, that had drinks and snacks. But I don't know if the truck is there everyday. It's a long way from Orisson to Roncesvalles. After lunch we walked up to Vierge Orisson--this is a beautiful ridge top with a large statue of the Virgin Mary. The day before I had arranged to get picked up at Vierge Orisson by a transportation company in St Jean named Express Bouricott. http://www.expressbourricot.com/persons-transport/. This company's office is located on the main street in St Jean. Very nice people. Brought us back to St Jean for 10 euros per person. It was great to drive back the road we had walked up earlier in the day. That night we had another wonderful meal in St Jean at the Michelin-starred restaurant at Hotel Des Pyrenees, then took a taxi the next morning back up to Vierge Orisson, where we had stopped the previous afternoon. From there we walked to Roncesvalles. Steep climb up from 1,100 meters to about 1,457 meters. Lunch at the peak with many other pilgrims, then we walked down to Roncesvalles. There are two options for walking down to Roncesvalles from the high point of the Camino. We chose the more direct and steep trail. It was brutal--steep, tough on my shins, slippery. The alternative road route appears to be about 1 km longer, and not quite as steep. Not sure how steep the alternative road is but if I do this again I will try that. In Roncesvalles, we stayed in the Hotel Roncesvalles, not the Albergue. It was clean and nice. The restaurant meal was ridiculously delicious and a total bargain at 19 euros. Overall, breaking this walk up into two days was right for us. We got to enjoy the amazing scenery at a slow pace and not feel rushed to march on in one day. If you plan to do the St Jean to Roncesvalles walk in one day, prepare for a difficult walk and get some provisions in Orisson before you move on. Been camino!

 

[FLEUR]

You made sensible choices for your walk @ Caminodharmabum

Every pilgrim will of course have their own ideas, levels of fitness, age and time constraints.

For us in 2012 having walked from St. Palais via Ostabat we chose to night stop in SJPDP then walk to Orisson, a beautiful day with great views. Then came the hail storm!
Next day we walked to Roncesvalles in the most atrocious wind and rain via that steep track down through the woods.

We would not have missed it for the world!

 

[Glenshiro]

Everyone walks their own Camino - there's no "right" way, except whatever works for you. I've walked this route twice, once in driving rain and low cloud, spending the night in La Posada in Roncesvalles, the second in beautiful weather, much as the OP describes, when I walked on to Burguete. I second the advice on stocking up on food and (especially) water. It's a steep hike to Orisson but then becomes much easier and the views are wonderful. But the best piece of advice I ever received and happily pass on is - take the road down to Roncesvalles! You will arrive in much better condition than if you take the path through the woods.

 

[t2andreo]

The first day, out of St. Jean Pied de Port is the single most difficult climb for most pilgrims on the ENTIRE Camino Frances. Too many people start out without a clear appreciation of the difficulty.

Yes, there are higher climbs to taller mountains, and longer slopes / climbs. But this degree of difficulty, right out of the 'starting blocks,' is a wakeup call to most pilgrims.

The first stage, to Roncesvalles, is just short of 27 Km. On level or rolling terrain, this would be doable on a first day. However, given the climb during the first 8 - 10 km, I strongly advise most pilgrims to break it into two days.

Many pilgrims reserve ahead and stay at Refugio Orisson, about 8 km up the Pyrenees. This also includes the worst bit of the first day's climb. The second day, the first maybe 2 km is mostly UP, but after that, it levels off and becomes undulating then down, as you cross over the Napoleon Pass and walk down, into Spain at Roncesvalles.

You MUST reserve ahead at the private albergue at Refugio Orisson. They make reservations by email. Here is their website: http://refuge-orisson.com/

Normally, they are closed until around Easter, as the Napoleon Pass is closed from November 1 to April 1, and few pilgrims attempt the crossing in winter... The pass is officially CLOSED, so the first responders will not have to retrieve your frozen, broken body from the mountains in winter...It has and does happen...

If you send them an email, you will not likely get a reply for some time, as the place is CLOSED. This means no one is there. This is when they take their vacations and do necessary work on this private albergue during the off -season.

Hope this helps.

 

[andywild]

Someone on FB has just commented that Orisson is now taking bookings for 2019 and they have their reservations.. they didn't mention how quickly they got a reply but it's probably worth trying now if you are wanting to book.

 

[Felipe]

The options have been discussed many times in the forum. I'd just add that from SJPP there is the easier Valcarlos variant (with the possibility of staying in the village, so breaking the stage in two). It is open all year round.
And yes, in the Napolleon route, the paved road after Lepoeder pass is quite easy, with some signposted shortcuts that cut some loops. And after the Ibañeta chapel, you may have a final, short walk through the forest or go along (cautiously) the paved road.

 

[Beeks]

Someone on FB has just commented that Orisson is now taking bookings for 2019 and they have their reservations.. they didn't mention how quickly they got a reply but it's probably worth trying now if you are wanting to book.

As an eager beaver, I had contacted Refuge Orisson in the summertime about reservations for early April 2019. I received a reply the same day to contact them after November 15.

On November 2nd, I recalled, "didn't they say to contact them in November?" (I couldn't find my original email). So I eagerly contacted them again. They replied on the same day to contact them after November 15.

So on November 17, I emailed them for the 3rd time. No immediate reply. On November 20, I emailed them again to provide additional detail. Still no reply. November 24, I used the contact form on their website to make my request, figuring I somehow mangled their email address... still no reply. I was literally checking my email 47 times a day... still no reply.

Finally got a reply on November 30 to my November 17 email, and paypal invoice the next day. HAPPY DANCE! In my reply, I apologized profusely for being an over eager PITA!

So yes, Refuge Orisson is taking reservations, at least for next April... see ya there the night of April 10th!

Also, the reservation email came from the refuge website, but the paypal invoice is from "SARL APATHIA", so be on the lookout.

Buen Camino

 

[Terri B]

Someone on FB has just commented that Orisson is now taking bookings for 2019 and they have their reservations.. they didn't mention how quickly they got a reply but it's probably worth trying now if you are wanting to book.

When I booked in 2016 they replied to my email within a couple of days.
Having flown from Australia to Paris and then 3 train rides I wanted to take it easy the first few days so I broke the traditional day 1 into 2 and stayed at Orisson. Very glad I did.

 

[Gareth Griffith]

I would recommend the overnight stay in Orisson, it is a pretty steep climb up from Saint Jean Pied de Port and although if you set off early and are prepared to crack on you can easily manage Roncesvalles in one stop, there is no rush!
I was warned by a friend that had done the route in April the year previous to me that coming down from the peak to Roncesvalles the steep route was so steep his toes were hitting the ends of his boots and in the end his toenails went black and fell off. I remembered this point when I was at the top and had a choice of routes. The snow was still thick on the ground and channels about a meter deep were cut through the drifts of snow. The party I was with split up with some taking the shorter, steeper descent and some of us (including me) taking the longer route. We arrived at Roncesvalles ahead of those doing the shorter route.

 

[Paul J W]

Obvious tip for starting from SJPdP (to complete in day to Roncevalles) is with head torch to start very early, at least by 0500h. Cooler then and you v soon warm up! Route to begin with is pretty obvious and to see early dawn from elevated location can be magical.
Additional advantage of road descent (to R’valles) is opportunity to hitch lift if in trouble.

 

[Devereaux]

I recommend stopping at Orrison for all the reasons above, especially the degree of difficulty on your first day.
BUT...the biggest reason is it's a fun dinner! It was possibly the most fun dinner of my entire Camino.
I made fast friends that night because of the camaraderie.
Everyone stands up and says their name, where they are from and why they're doing the Camino.
And...the French sing a traditional song; sometimes Ultreia!
It's a warm and friendly atmosphere and simply the best way to start your Camino!

 

[C clearly]

For newcomers, I want to comment on the warnings about Day 1. In 2014 I planned to be sensible and take 2 days, walking the "easier" Valcarlos route in late October. I can't remember how old I was (my calculation now suggests I was 66 or so). I was moderately fit, accustomed to having a day pack on my back, and I had packed very sensibly on the basis of good advice here - under 6 kg before water and snacks.

So, I got to SJPP, staying at Beilari. Of course we had the convivial dinner and discussions. Everyone else was planning to walk over the Napoleon to Roncesvalles the next day. Except me. With my newfound friendships at risk, I succumbed to peer pressure and decided to join them. A couple of us stuffed the things we didn't need for the day (mainly sleeping bags) into a spare dry bag and sent it via Express Bourricot.

The weather was great (an important factor). We set out after light (certainly after 7 am as I never walk in the dark.) Up the hill to Orisson, I didn't talk much - better to preserve my oxygen - but at one point I found myself talking @SYates and said "OH, you must be Sybille!

We stumbled down the hill to Roncesvalles, meeting one of our members who had a bad back and bad day pack, who had hitched a ride back down with the shepherds on patrol, gone on to Roncesvalles, and made a dinner reservation for the group from Beilari. We were all intact. Some were grumbling about having brought too much in their backpacks. But we were happy.

My point here is that you must be sensible. You know yourself best. However, if the weather is OK, if you are not carrying too much, if you have good footwear, if you have done a couple of 20-km walks in preparation, if you have walking sticks and appropriate clothing, then you will almost certainly be fine. Don't be too intimidated. But DO make sure you have done those key things in preparation.

 

[Peter Thompson]

Someone on FB has just commented that Orisson is now taking bookings for 2019 and they have their reservations.. they didn't mention how quickly they got a reply but it's probably worth trying now if you are wanting to book.

 

[Peter Thompson]

I contacted Orisson a few months ago and they responded that they would start taking reservations on November 15th. So on that date I repeated my reservation request and received a response and invoice 12 days later.

 

[MarkyD]

The first day, out of St. Jean Pied de Port is the single most difficult climb for most pilgrims on the ENTIRE Camino Frances. Too many people start out without a clear appreciation of the difficulty.

Yes, there are higher climbs to taller mountains, and longer slopes / climbs. But this degree of difficulty, right out of the 'starting blocks,' is a wakeup call to most pilgrims.

The first stage, to Roncesvalles, is just short of 27 Km. On level or rolling terrain, this would be doable on a first day. However, given the climb during the first 8 - 10 km, I strongly advise most pilgrims to break it into two days.

Many pilgrims reserve ahead and stay at Refugio Orisson, about 8 km up the Pyrenees. This also includes the worst bit of the first day's climb. The second day, the first maybe 2 km is mostly UP, but after that, it levels off and becomes undulating then down, as you cross over the Napoleon Pass and walk down, into Spain at Roncesvalles.

You MUST reserve ahead at the private albergue at Refugio Orisson. They make reservations by email. Here is their website: http://refuge-orisson.com/

Normally, they are closed until around Easter, as the Napoleon Pass is closed from November 1 to April 1, and few pilgrims attempt the crossing in winter... The pass is officially CLOSED, so the first responders will not have to retrieve your frozen, broken body from the mountains in winter...It has and does happen...

If you send them an email, you will not likely get a reply for some time, as the place is CLOSED. This means no one is there. This is when they take their vacations and do necessary work on this private albergue during the off -season.

Hope this helps.

Orisson is a perfect stop if you can get a bed there. I phoned the day before arrival as the reply I received to my email enquiry said they didn't take bookings (31st August 2018). They advised me to arrive before 1pm and I should be able to get a bed. I arrived at about 12.15 (after setting off from SJPP at around 9.30 am). I also stopped several times to admire the view, take photos and meet the first few of many Camino friends along the way. I secured a bunk in the lower cabins overlooking the spectacular valley. The highlight was the evening pilgrim's meal, which the hosts made into a special occasion for everyone. You could also pre-order take away food to collect at breakfast.
I did meet several people, mainly younger and fitter types, who walked the whole stage in 1 day, but due to late arrival of some at Roncesvalles they were unable to get a bed at the monetary and had to either continue walking (wrong move for them) or get a taxi to nearest alternative accommodation - much more expensive.

 

[Doug Delfeld]

Thank you for all the info and experiences. I have one question, I’ve herd that if you stay at Orrison during the winter months when the Neapolian is closed, hey will shuttle you over to the Valcarlos. Does anyone know if that’s true and if so how much!

 

[C clearly]

Thank you for all the info and experiences. I have one question, I’ve herd that if you stay at Orrison during the winter months when the Neapolian is closed, hey will shuttle you over to the Valcarlos. Does anyone know if that’s true and if so how much!

No. They close during the winter period, exact dates depending on the weather, in part. If the Napoleon route is recommended against (because of bad weather) when Orisson is open, I have heard that they will help with getting pilgrims back down to the Valcarlos route.

 

[gerardcarey]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...the-mountain-part-1-st-jean-to-orisson.23398/
Regards
Gerard