- Time of past OR future Camino
- Oct/Nov 2022_Mozarabe from Almeria
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Thanks Mike for your thoughts + you're not leaving me with any illusions of having dry feet, lol.I doubt that you will need to book ahead, even when you meet up with the Sanabres, as it is neither a busy route of a busy time. However, I am certain you will get wet feet (at least!) as I walked it last year after a very fry spell and still had to be wary in a couple of places. Buon Camino
Hi TomI start from Ponferrada on the Invierno one week later, on 13 April. It will be interesting to read your on the scene reports. I hope you post while walking.
look out for 6 aussies all over 60 commencing from Madrid on the 1st april and also walking the Invierno, no booking except for 2 days in LeonHi Invierno pilgrims.
I’m hoping to start from Ponferrada around 6 April 18. , (after I finish Camino de Madrid )., so a day either side is possible.
After current weather , i am expecting to get wet feet at least.
I have printed out the new 2018 Invierno guide recently put up in resources by @peregrina2000 (thankyou Laurie ) and also Wise pilgrims app.
I have not booked accommodation yet as not definite on arrivals dates yet. I will more than likely book ahead for a couple of spots when I’m at least mid way into camino de Madrid and better able to judge arrival day in Ponferrada.
Looks like an interesting route.
If I choose 12 day walk with the following stages ., do you see any problem I may have managing to either walk in or pre book at either one or other of these stops ?
Day1 Las Medulas 27.2
Day 2. O’Barco de Valdeorras. 26.4
Day 3. A Rua de Valdeorras. 14.2
Day 4. Quiroga. 26.3
Day 5. A Pobra do Brollon 22.9
Day 6. Vilarino ((Fion) 26.7
Day 7. Chantada 15.9
Day 8. Rodeiro. 25.8
Day 9. Lalin. 21.3
Day10. Silleda. 15.6
Day11. Ponte Ulla 19.9
Day12. Santiago de Compostela 21.2
Open to any ideas if you have some.
Annie
Hi @Froggy012look out for 6 aussies all over 60 commencing from Madrid on the 1st april and also walking the Invierno, no booking except for 2 days in Leon
Hi Laurie @peregrina2000Hi, Annie,
Getting excited for you! My one piece of advice would be to make sure to have time to visit As Médulas, it is a crazy spooky but pretty amazing place and a UNESCO site. IMO, walking around on the trail at the bottom is nowhere near as nice as getting up to the mirador and looking down. Get your body up there if you can! (the guide has good instructions to avoid the long loop that LT and I inadvertently found outselves on).
Have you heard any update on how long As Viñas in Pobra will be open?
My purpose in doing this route is to determine if it is suitable to advocate for others to use it to avoid the near saturation and commercialism experienced on the last stretches of the Camino Frances. Last summer and fall there was quite a lot of complaining across the forum on that subject.
The Invierno route is only about 38 km farther than the Camino Frances route. So, it seems logical. Also, the route has recently been fully vetted and accepted by the relevant authorities as an historic Camino route.
Laurie has the CSJ 2018 Invierno Guide covered, and Mike M. has the Wise Pilgrim Guide sorted. So, my interest is to experience it directly and make recommendations. I thought it would be best to have 'walked the walk...' so to speak, prior to advising other pilgrims one way or the other.
Hope to hear from you along the way.
Buen Camino!
Thanks heaps MichaelHave a good one Annie.
Hi Invierno pilgrims.
Day 6. Vilarino ((Fion) 26.7
Mucho ánimo, Annie! It looks like the weather forecast is correct, but it's only tomorrow when it will be raining a lot. Enjoy this beautiful camino.Thursday 5/4/18. Ponferrada
I’ve just arrived in my room. 5.30pm. Booked same hotel as you Tom. @t2andreo - Hotel Los Templarios..
Coming along in the train I kept shaking in my boots. Who am I kidding. They are some large hills I passed through on the train. They tell me rain is forecast for next 5 days. I need a lot of that ‘ánimo’. encouragement now.
I don’t tend to believe in forecasts 100%. So hoping I’ll have a bit of help from above.
Just a day at a time. - one step at a time, I’m telling myself.
Annie
Annie, I would follow Laurie's advice especially if the weather forecast turn out to be true. But remember that there's completely new albergue even closer to Ponferrada - in Villavieja. You just might be the first pilgrim to sleep in it if you decide to stop thereHi, Annie,
Remember you can stop in Borrenes tomorrow if you are tired. Really hope you have time to enjoy As Médulas, because it is one wild and crazy UNESCO site.
Can't wait to follow along, buen camino, Laurie
ÁNIMO peregrina!!!!!
Hi, Annie,
Remember you can stop in Borrenes tomorrow if you are tired. Really hope you have time to enjoy As Médulas, because it is one wild and crazy UNESCO site.
Can't wait to follow along, buen camino, Laurie
ÁNIMO peregrina!!!!!
So, it almost looks like Laurie will be swimming, and I will be walking in my or less dry weather.
LolYou can't mean me, because I have ordered a month of clear skies and delightful temperatures.
I can recall and I even dream sometimes of each step, each curve, uphill, house, you name it, it's all in me...Kinky has a much better memory of the difference between Toral de Merayo, Villalibre, Priaranza, etc. ...
Laurie is a real trooper, I'm just one lazy beer drinkerHi Tom
He he. I’ve been thinking of you as ive trudged uphill. I keep saying to myself : not more up?
But remember I’m a bit ‘long in the tooth’ and feeling it in the legs and feet. I’m sure it’s a walk in the park for K1 and P2000 who seem to have extra energy to investigate everything historical etc; en route.
Me, I’m boring ., as I’m basically walking from place to place. Any extra does me in.
Answer to your question : I don’t recall feeling as ‘knackered’ before. On primitivo , salvadore , up to ORISSON . I definitely didn’t notice my climb to O’cebrero ... so I’m thinking I have either deteriorated a lot since or it’s more up on this route. There seem to be more ups than down.
Definitely (IMHO) not a way for sissies or first timers. What makes it worth it is the beauty .. it’s unbelievably beautiful.
You know the saying : what goes up must come down ? Well in reverse with caminos.
I thought the up and down start of the Norte was taxing but my legs are hurting more the past two days . Could be that I know that rain is forecast and keep plodding while the sun shines rather than get wet if it dawdle.
I thought about your planned stage from Borrenes and (remembering the Long downhill to Borrenes ) offsetting that; is uphill out of town. I would rethink the total of your next stage if it’s possible to get a ride. /taxi to las Médulas.. not advising you ., but if you think your stage is too long., letting you know that there is a bit of climbing
Centro Social is on the left side of the road. If you follow the same road just a little bit further (20mts) after the Y fork (Camino goes to the right at Y fork) there is this very welcoming bar on the right immediately after Y fork with owner accommodating pilgrims on further notice. Cold beer, tapas and view over the town down by the river......Sobradelo , I was a little confused with guide as it states first establishment you come to is;Centro Social Pontenova. I thought I’d missed it as you have to walk through quite a number of homes or buildings and into village before you get there. When I saw a place ., I thought ah ! Open bar. 2.30pm. But sadly., no menu Del dia Saturday. I had to haggle to get anything.
...
You could stay at Asun in her albergue and saved approx.48€ if mentioned 60€ are for 2 days. You would have a three bedroom for yourself and en-suite bathroom....
After 2 biggish days for me I have reserved a comfortable room for tomorrow at ‘A Rua.. the Pacio do Sil. Booking dot com E60.
I’ll decide when I get there whether I’ll just have an easy day or leave my bag there and walk to Montefurado and train back after 6pm to shorten following day- or just enjoy an easy day...
Hi CharritoHi, Annie.
It's great reading your posts, and you're making me feel really jealous! The Invierno is my favourite Camino, as I just need peace and quiet, stunning scenery and friendly people. Just the opposite to what you find on the more travelled routes, especially the Francés.
I'll mention a few more of the points you've made in another post a bit later today.
If you're staying at the Pacio do Sil you'll find the people to be charming, It's a bit of a splurge, but well worth it, even though it's very slightly off the Camino. Prepare yourself for a really hearty breakfast tomorrow morning, with all sorts of homemade goodies!
Should you decide to walk on to Montefurado this afternoon, and then get the train back to A Rúa, the owner will drive you to Montefurado tomorrow morning so that you can start again from there.
Today's stage from O Barco to A Rúa is not the most exciting, but you'll enjoy some spectacular scenery tomorrow, especially after Montefurado. In Chantada, you must try and eat in Casa Aroza, just up the road from the main street.
This is what I wrote here lasy year, Annie.Hi Charrito
Thanks for such a lot of info.
I asked about breakfast. She mentioned it’s E5 and described tostada etc. you may have been a favourite? I’m always happy with tostada & cafe con leche tho.
Re leaving - she mentioned I could get a taxi or Alba (that’s how it sounded ) may drive me. I’ve asked for the price but will discuss this evening.
I’ll do a post for the day next.
Annie
Do I understand correctly that you walked past Vilamartin with river on your righthand side? If not why did you wrote you didn't go over the river? I mean why would you?...
I thought the ist section to A Rua was good even though it rained - There was a section where arrows pointed both ways but I could see by heading toward the river there was a new mojon ahead. So went straight and then curved right following the pretty walk along the river. All the way. I didn’t cross over to the town of Arcos from this way to look for coffee, just kept on. Same with Vilamartín.. I didn’t go over the river. Just kept straight on. Signage is excellent.
...
Kinky - just saying I didn’t deviate from the way -no extra distance added going into pueblos looking for cafes/bars ...that would probably be closed on Sundays anyway.Do I understand correctly that you walked past Vilamartin with river on your righthand side? If not why did you wrote you didn't go over the river? I mean why would you?
In 2014 I walked through sports complex with the river on my lefthand side...
Thanks for reminder on this one LaurieHi, Annie,
I was just going to head off the forum and your post came up. So glad to see it!
Yes, the scenery between A Rua and Montefurado is quite good. We have @Charrito to thank for the suggestion about adding on this segment to the short day into A Rua.
Tomorrow, your walk into Quiroga will seem oh so short! Looking at the stages as you originally posted them, I think you will have smooth sailing from here on. Since you are stopping in Pobra de Brollón, you will break up what would otherwise be a long day from Quiroga to Monforte. BTW, have you called As Viñas in Pobra to see whether they are still open? I spoke with the woman a few weeks ago, as I'm sure I told you and she wasn't sure whether they would still be open in May, but this is April, so maybe you will be in luck. She also said she can call a place she trusts for you and arrange to have you picked up, etc. So I think you will be fine!
Buen camino, and I hope you have a wonderful dinner tonight!
The hostal where I stay is on the same street as the Albergue, just keep walking if you can’t get the Albergue guy. Have a great day tomorrow. !!!!Thanks for reminder on this one Laurie
I just called As Vinas in A Pobra.
(I hope that’s who I contacted. / it’s noisy in the bar here ).. the number I called : 982430124
They okayed a room for me for Tuesday 10th.
With bath for E25. He could have said ‘incluido desayuno’ also; but I’m not too worried if I misheard that bit.
So room settled for A Pobra ... Actually, I just called him back as I’d booked in error for ‘tomorrow’ and now corrected. I’ll be in Quiroga tomorrow.
I’ll try to get into the private albergue in Quiroga.
I tried to email the ‘info address’ on guide but it kicked back. Also tried calling Eduardo 669812659 and couldn’t make contact. So hoping I’ll find them open tomorrow.
No doubt if they are not., I should be able to find something ? Hoping anyway ?
Still wet outside. Looks like getting much wetter for next week or so.
But I’m still smiling.
Annie
Thanks. K1. I’ve got the backup above from Laurie. So hoping I’m fine.Hi, Annie,
I think you are mistaken about private albergue in Quiroga. There isn't one. Only one is a huge 150-190 beds muni albergue. If you are calling Eduardo this is the one. I guess hospitaleros there are working in shifts and when I came there was a notice on the entrance doors with a number which didn't match any of the five I've had. And a lady came not Eduardo
Interesting. If you mean bedbugs. Because exactly in A Rua Asun helped me with them critters. I was on the edge of nervous breakdown because of more than 100 bites. I was maybe a day or two from decision to throw myself on the floor of the nearest ER or psychiatric ward and say they can do with myself whatever they wish because I had enoughPs. Having heebie jeebies here at El Pacio (casa rural). I’ve seen crawlies on window ledge but too late to rouse the owners. I’ve hung my gear up on shower rail and set my mochilla on the bidet !!
I hope I can sleep.
Keep you posted. I’ll definitly inform them tomorrow !! Itch itch !! I’ve never had a bite before.
Annie
Bedbugs are not black, AnnieYep - that’s what I mean.
I was standing at the ledge after I took the room and had a map of A Rua on the ledge. At that time I thought they might be but wasn’t sure.
When I returned to room tonight (late 9.30pm) I stood there barefoot and saw a little black thing on my foot. I grabbed it and squashed it. Looked like one to me. So have gone crazy hanging my gear away. Here’s hoping. I doubt I’ll sleep tho. I’ll be turning lights on to see if there’s any movement.
Yuk yuk yuk.
Thanks Charrito , I guess this must be the ‘tough one’?Annie:
You'll definitely get breakfast downstairs in As Viñas. Just tell her what time and she'll be ready for you. Great people, by the way. If you're struggling after the climb out of Quiroga, and the steep walk down to Barxa de Lor, head left just after the Roman bridge, walk along the river a few hundred yards, and have a cold (or hot!) drink in Pensión Pacita. The guy from As Viñas will also pick you up from there if you don't fancy the slog up to Castroncelos.
You're in As Vinas, Annie?Thanks Charrito , I guess this must be the ‘tough one’?
I was just reading about that service in Laurie’s Invierno guide. Ps. In my rush back to cross the tracks yesterday .,I dropped my hard copy guide. !!! I had heaps of highlighted info. Luckily I still have it downloaded in my ‘ibooks’ but Prefer paper notes.
I’m also reading kinkys notes which are helpful. And refer to maps me for encouragement sometimes.
Great to get your timely tips !! Appreciate it.
Annie
No I am in Quiroga today. As Vinas (I guess that’s in A Pobra ?) for tomorrowYou're in As Vinas, Annie?
Or tomorrow?
The 'tough' one is down to Belesar and up to Chantada.No I am in Quiroga today. As Vinas (I guess that’s in A Pobra ?) for tomorrow
Yes, that's in A Pobra de Brollon. After Barxa do Lor there is a killer uphill but it is very short one. After that one of the most beautiful sections of all my Caminos come. In nice weather it's Galicia in all its beauty with meadows etc... It's shortish but oh so nice. You'll see.No I am in Quiroga today. As Vinas (I guess that’s in A Pobra ?) for tomorrow
Tomorrow, your walk into Quiroga will seem oh so short!
I hope you have a wonderful dinner tonight!
She was already in Galicia and chinches changed to chinchas (Gallego)...
Glad the insects inthe casa rural in A Rua was not the chinches.
They must have liked me more than you, Annie, as I was taken there free!!!!!!!Also more info on accommodation in ARua.
My friend of tonight (Alison ) wanted to recommend ‘highly’, the hotel O Pillaban. Not sure if it is hotel but she said it has very good quality furnishings etc. price paid for single was E25.
Also on El Pacio do sil. Very well heated
Charrito mentioned that it is possible that Alba, the offsider of Julia the boss (jefe), may drive you back to Montefurado. Just in case people have expectations that this is free, it is quite a way and does cost time and fuel. His charge is e10. Which I thought reasonable as I could choose when to go and didn’t have to walk down to station for return to start.
I've stayed a couple of times in the Hostal Quiper, and it's pretty good (and cheap)! For a meal, I've never been that keen on Chapakuña, though; ask Laurie what we both say about Casa Aroza!!Hi Day 4
Montefurado to Quiroga.
Laurie , so glad I walked the first part to Montefurado yesterday afternoon without Mochilla.
I still found the walk had substantial climbs, with a lot of boggy bits , on the off road paths. Although I was garbed with rain gear as it looked like rain to start, I had very little rain after start. Due to overnight rain though., there is quite a lot of water running down some of the paths. One particular path, somewhere around Bendilló to Soldón I think there are a few trees down on the path. One was ok just needs clearing. The other one - was in a position where I had to hold onto the broken tree and walk on dangerous cliff side. (I met another peregrina/(below) who found that pass unsafe too.
A bit of rock hopping a stream but passable. Boots got a bit damp today.
The signs often seem to take you uphill a lot / I think more to make the road users (car drivers) feel safe. Adds a lot in some places.
Going through Bendilló, I was talking to a lovely local lady , ‘Lupe’ short for Guadalupe. She invited me to her casa for coffee and let me use the bathroom.. she had an amiga visiting and I’m getting heaps of opportunities to improve my Spanish. It must be getting better, as they understand me and I’m understanding more of what they say. Practise practise is what it takes.
After coming down from Bendilló and heading to
Soldón you come to a mojon and camino arrows/ signs on the road ., pointing uphill on the right.
I said to me: no way !! I’m not going up, Soldón is down there. On the left side of the road I took, there were older arrows and the camino was where I wanted it to be. Alison (the peregrina I met tonight )., said she took the up sign and spent 10 minutes going wrong.
Btw I didn’t find a decent meal yesterday in A Rúa. / Alison said same for her. ( It may have been that is was Sunday ?) So today began 10am & when I arrived today in Quiroga just before 3 I think. Very slow walking., decided to find menu Del dia before accommodation. I asked at one bar and was directed to ‘Chapakuña’ which is in a street behind Main Street. (Its mentioned in Laurie’s guide too) It was really tasty and went down well. I’ve noticed more variety available lately in menu Del dia . Cost E10.
Staff were lovely and friendly., so I asked for recommendation for Hostal. They immediately said
Hostal Quiper (also in Laurie’s guide). Guy at restaurant even drove me to Hostal instead of describing where it was.
Guide quotes single of E20 but price was only E17.
I showed my surprise to her and she said for peregrinas. It has wifi, own bathroom with a medium size bath (had a relax there ). Comfy beds with warm coverings. Very good value.
When I arrived to ring the bell , Lo and behold, first pilgrim I’ve met on Invierno turns up at same time.
So we both got sorted with individual rooms and decided to meet later. Alison is English.
It was great being able to discuss the walk with someone but she will be making quicker progress than me from here on as she will finish about 3 days before me. Strangely we both left Ponferrada the same day but hadn’t chanced meeting before.
That was my day. A Pobra de Brollo tomorrow.
Annie
I've always gone down into Soldón, but I've never found KinkyOne's chiringuito bar open (seasonal).Hi Day 4
Montefurado to Quiroga.
Laurie , so glad I walked the first part to Montefurado yesterday afternoon without Mochilla.
I still found the walk had substantial climbs, with a lot of boggy bits , on the off road paths. Although I was garbed with rain gear as it looked like rain to start, I had very little rain after start. Due to overnight rain though., there is quite a lot of water running down some of the paths. One particular path, somewhere around Bendilló to Soldón I think there are a few trees down on the path. One was ok just needs clearing. The other one - was in a position where I had to hold onto the broken tree and walk on dangerous cliff side. (I met another peregrina/(below) who found that pass unsafe too.
A bit of rock hopping a stream but passable. Boots got a bit damp today.
The signs often seem to take you uphill a lot / I think more to make the road users (car drivers) feel safe. Adds a lot in some places.
Going through Bendilló, I was talking to a lovely local lady , ‘Lupe’ short for Guadalupe. She invited me to her casa for coffee and let me use the bathroom.. she had an amiga visiting and I’m getting heaps of opportunities to improve my Spanish. It must be getting better, as they understand me and I’m understanding more of what they say. Practise practise is what it takes.
After coming down from Bendilló and heading to
Soldón you come to a mojon and camino arrows/ signs on the road ., pointing uphill on the right.
I said to me: no way !! I’m not going up, Soldón is down there. On the left side of the road I took, there were older arrows and the camino was where I wanted it to be. Alison (the peregrina I met tonight )., said she took the up sign and spent 10 minutes going wrong.
Btw I didn’t find a decent meal yesterday in A Rúa. / Alison said same for her. ( It may have been that is was Sunday ?) So today began 10am & when I arrived today in Quiroga just before 3 I think. Very slow walking., decided to find menu Del dia before accommodation. I asked at one bar and was directed to ‘Chapakuña’ which is in a street behind Main Street. (Its mentioned in Laurie’s guide too) It was really tasty and went down well. I’ve noticed more variety available lately in menu Del dia . Cost E10.
Staff were lovely and friendly., so I asked for recommendation for Hostal. They immediately said
Hostal Quiper (also in Laurie’s guide). Guy at restaurant even drove me to Hostal instead of describing where it was.
Guide quotes single of E20 but price was only E17.
I showed my surprise to her and she said for peregrinas. It has wifi, own bathroom with a medium size bath (had a relax there ). Comfy beds with warm coverings. Very good value.
When I arrived to ring the bell , Lo and behold, first pilgrim I’ve met on Invierno turns up at same time.
So we both got sorted with individual rooms and decided to meet later. Alison is English.
It was great being able to discuss the walk with someone but she will be making quicker progress than me from here on as she will finish about 3 days before me. Strangely we both left Ponferrada the same day but hadn’t chanced meeting before.
That was my day. A Pobra de Brollo tomorrow.
Annie
No. Nothing open when I went thru. But I think I know the place if the season was right !!I've always gone down into Soldón, but I've never found KinkyOne's chiringuito bar open (seasonal).
It’s good to have choice. Chapakuna was good for me and not far from where I asked. Alison stayed on Main Street and hadn’t eaten. Later we only went to bar beside Hostal Quiper. She could get tapas but I was full up from a hearty menu del dia.I've stayed a couple of times in the Hostal Quiper, and it's pretty good (and cheap)! For a meal, I've never been that keen on Chapakuña, though; ask Laurie what we both say about Casa Aroza!!
Maybe you were the start of the ‘market opportunity’. Charrito. It is a good drive though and his car would need fuel and care eventually.They must have liked me more than you, Annie, as I was taken there free!!!!!!!
One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .No. Nothing open when I went thru. But I think I know the place if the season was right !!
No, it was my English charm, Annie!Maybe you were the start of the ‘market opportunity’. Charrito. It is a good drive though and his car would need fuel and care eventually.
I was happy with the plan.
Annie
I have knocked back a few local wines in that bar. Last year it was 50 cents, with free pincho included!It’s good to have choice. Chapakuna was good for me and not far from where I asked. Alison stayed on Main Street and hadn’t eaten. Later we only went to bar beside Hostal Quiper. She could get tapas but I was full up from a hearty menu del dia.
One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .
I've seen pictures of the place, but it's always closed!
https://www.facebook.com/ChiringuitoSoldon
If I get back on my lovely Invierno this summer, I will think about the apartments in Soldón. But only if the chiringuito is open!Reb and I found the chiringuito open when we walked through a few years ago. They were cooking what looked like a huge meal for an incoming group and had little time for us, but we got a good cold drink and enjoyed just sitting there by the river. Has anyone seen or stayed at the Soldon apartment? It seems like a good option from Rúa but is maybe too close to Quiroga.
On to Pobra de Brollón for you Annie!!!
It looked a bit sadder yesterday.One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .
I've seen pictures of the place, but it's always closed!
https://www.facebook.com/ChiringuitoSoldon
wow - that beats me. I had a couple in Bar Melin in ARua Sunday night and they only charged .70c and included tapas. Easy to tip in places like that.I have knocked back a few local wines in that bar. Last year it was 50 cents, with free pincho included!
You don't need to tip in Spanish bars!! Restaurants, yes.It looked a bit sadder yesterday.
wow - that beats me. I had a couple in Bar Melin in ARua Sunday night and they only charged .70c and included tapas. Easy to tip in places like that.
There were are lot of ‘them thar hills ‘ (climbs ) en route today. It was after menu Del dia time , by the time I dragged this sodden, sad, tired, bag of bones into As Vinas., but they were super helpful. They cooked me some pollo and fritas and a pudding. ! Suficiente!If I get back on my lovely Invierno this summer, I will think about the apartments in Soldón. But only if the chiringuito is open!
Annie: enjoy the hospitality in As Viñas; they really are lovely people. Pretty decent menú del día too. Take a walk back into town to see the pretty river setting. There are three or four bars down there as well.
You’re a hard man Charrito... ???? Surely the bar staff appreciate it too.You don't need to tip in Spanish bars!! Restaurants, yes.
Interesting seeing the profile because I don't remember the first climb after Quiroga to be hard at all. But the one from Barxa, whewThere were are lot of ‘them thar hills ‘ (climbs ) en route today. It was after menu Del dia time , by the time I dragged this sodden, sad, tired, bag of bones into As Vinas., but they were super helpful. They cooked me some pollo and fritas and a pudding. ! Suficiente!
Bruno (the son) was going to reserve a hotel for me in Montforte de Lemos but I quickly let him know my plan was to go further tomorrow. He then booked for me at Casa Rural Torre Vilarino.
He was very proud of montforte de Lemos and there seems to be so much you can see if you have fresh legs and time.
He also let me have (for use/reading today only ) a book about the winter route by Aida Menendez Lorenzo
It has some good profile pics.
It was too wet when I arrived to walk about ‘pretty river setting ‘. Some almighty climbs ‘. Phew - I’m claiming my ‘mountain goat certificate ‘ when I reach Santiago. Also so wet and boggy on last 5k ... I didn’t think I’d ever reach this place !!
When I saw the profile map in Aida’s book.. I could understand.
Annie
The walk out of Quiroga is flat for a couple of kilometres, regardless of whether you carry on down the main road or make a slight detour through San Clodio, but then there's a steady upward, winding climb past Nocedo on the LU-933. You then veer off into the woods and go up a bit more, then down past the chapel (Ermida de Nosa Señora Dos Remedios) until you get to Carballo de Lor. Then it's down to the bridge at Barxa and up towards Castroncelos.Interesting seeing the profile because I don't remember the first climb after Quiroga to be hard at all. But the one from Barxa, whew
It's a common misconception that you need to tip in bars. Believe me, I've lived here for over 30 years and it's not the done thing! If there's a group of you and you have several rounds and pinchos/tapas, then it would be fine (and expected), but not if you just have a wine, beer or coffee.You’re a hard man Charrito... ???? Surely the bar staff appreciate it too.
Kinky- the owner at As Vinas !Yes, that's in A Pobra de Brollon. After Barxa do Lor there is a killer uphill but it is very short one. After that one of the most beautiful sections of all my Caminos come. In nice weather it's Galicia in all its beauty with meadows etc... It's shortish but oh so nice. You'll see.
Please give my best regards to the owner (and his wife) of As Vinas. If you can please mention middle aged (44 then) Slovenian pilgrim with Castro cap and flag of International Brigades from Civil war on it that was there on 24th of July 2014. I'm so sad that they are closing the business. In long evening talk he told me his life story and I know how hard he and his wife has been working in France to be able to open it. I don't know the circumstances but I'd say it's a shame on their children not to continue it.
Buen Camino!
Hahaha, love the photoKinky- the owner at As Vinas !
He remembered you immediately and laughed. He sent you ‘saludas from the Portuguese ‘
He slips into French very readily. I have much, much less French then Spanish (and its meagre)., but had to tell him he was answering me in French !! We were talking about your age (roughlynow )..when trying to describe you....and he was saying ‘huit’ Instead of ‘ocho’. . ! Lol.
Lovely family. @peregrina2000 Re As Vinas possibly closing this year. Bruno was doing a good job of it all at the moment.
Bruno just told me the current situation. Something to do with paperwork ., but at the moment, it is a ‘day to day’ thing. They could close tomorrow or maybe not until May. He said he would handle bookings when you call on a daily basis., but they are hoping to stay open for this spring.
No bar stops today. I stopped & took off pack for a few minutes at the Capela de Los Remedios. I even ate one of those juicy apples I bought from the fruit truck in Las Médulas.. best apple I’ve ever had. !!! A good meal on its own, as it was a huge ‘Fuji ‘ apple.
Coming thru Barxa de Lor, it is a picturesque setting but definitely tough up up up to climb out.
I initially missed the camino turn off veering left into the steep up and then was pulled up by two yellow crosses!!
Almost needed a ‘pick’ to climb that one.
The scenery is so pretty and once the place dries just a little ., so you can stop and picnic etc ., it will be even more enjoyable.
Just before you reach the bridge at Barxa de Lor, there are two houses between which the camino path winds. Not very wide path at this corner. At this point there are two large dogs (one on either side )., but you can see that you still have room to walk thru without them getting to you.(ie shortish chains , just wait until they stand and you get see how far they can move. I wasn’t disturbed by them at all ., but knowing how some people react to dogs and have fears., they could freak out. Just wanted to forewarn them and to let them know that barking is only dogs talking. Just hasten by, you will be fine.
The hills and the climbs., grow on you after a few days though. I’m getting stronger possibly.
Also if you procrastinate and don’t keep moving ., the distance you want to cover ., won’t happen.
Btw Laurie , not sure if the new Invierno signs in this region are new to you but they have many new wooden signs pegged into the ground with a wooden carved sign (writing in green) ‘Camino de Inverño’. (Spelt that way) ! But they are still painting lovely yellow arrows and still have mojónes and tiles too.
Very very well signed.
It was raining when I left Quiroga and they were setting up what looked like a Tuesday market !
It stopped and started continually, so one minute ., it felt like a sauna (with rain gear and warm stuff on) and then you’d be cold. However 5 ks out from A Pobra de Brollón the rain became heavy and I also needed my poncho. No wind tho so easier to don..
This region looked to have had much more rain and it was ‘dodgems’ all the way. Muddy boots.
Of course after I arrived I was reading the guide where it mentions the owner of As Vinas runs a taxi service and can save people hill climb coming into town and lots of mud as today was.
But I’m pleased though, to have walked in.
Annie
That's a longish stage tomorrow, Annie, if you're going all the way to Torre Vilariño. Warning: there's a really horrible muddy stretch before you get to Mnforte de Lemos!
27There’s mud in quite a few place now. It’s been raining around here. I walked a stretch of mud before A Pobra.
I was a bit flustered when Bruno called to book there. I was figuring 26 or 27 ? Did I get it wrong.
Tks. Annie
Lovely stage for you tomorrow. It's steep down to Belesar and then steep once you've crossed the river, but the views are amazing.Well I’ve pondered the k’s planned for tomorrow , the mud ahead, the rain, and what Bruno was telling me about what to see in Montforte de Lemos; and have decided to be a coward and arrange a taxi from As Vinas to Montforte de Lemos which in Laurie’s guide is approx 12.5ks. Then I miss the mud, give myself a wee while to look at Montforte instead of ‘blowing through town ‘ and then walk to Vilarino to Casa Rural El Torre with less push.
Following day I am thinking of Chantada so will not be a long one either.
Annie
Hi CharritoLovely stage for you tomorrow. It's steep down to Belesar and then steep once you've crossed the river, but the views are amazing.
On your way up the other side, I recommend stopping in the Mesón e Adega do Veiga. If the weather's not too bad, you can sit outside and contemplate the river below you, and all the vineyards on both sides.
Link to their web-page (they open at 11.00):
http://mesoneadegadoveiga.wixsite.com/mesoneadegadoveiga
Lucky you!Hi Charrito
I won’t hit ‘like’ to your post -(ha ha) I’m guessing you’re not about these parts at present.
I’m sitting ‘resting’ in a bus stop ( no, not waiting for a bus ).(out of the rain and mud for 10 minutes) .. the way from Montforte today —- oh dear..... first few kilometres- a joy .. flat ...
then the rain started when the flat ceased.
Following the camino has been laborious today. I’m still about 4 k from Casa at Vilariño.. after slogging through mud for an hour ., that you couldn’t avoid, because I followed camino signs! I came to the road LP-4112 and wasn’t going to cross over to more mud (pic below ) as it may or may not continue. So following the longer way via LP 4112 up to A Barxa., then find way to casa El Torre.
Unbelievable how in a short time it will be summer and brown and dry and possibly the advice of meandering fields would fit. Today no. Can’t complain too much as it is cool to walk.
Annie
I thought you walked earlier in the year in winter proper? It’s very cold right now and they had snow in A Barxa yesterday. Some unmelted walking through today. I am now at Casa Rural El Torre Vilarino... now this is a great accommodation approx 400m off camino.Lucky you!
Seriously, I have walked the Invierno three times and it has always been dry as a bone and baking hot. What I would have given for a few drops of rain!
Part from Monforte to Torre Vilarino (to the asphalt road you have to cross actually) is notorious for being flooded, muddy, overgrown etc. Even after Reguengo I had no remorse sticking to 4112.I thought you walked earlier in the year in winter proper? It’s very cold right now and they had snow in A Barxa yesterday. Some unmelted walking through today. I am now at Casa Rural El Torre Vilarino... now this is a great accommodation approx 400m off camino.
Susanna has first let me rest for an hour and then I’ve had a delicious meal !! It’s raining outside but I want to check out the garden before it’s dark.
Susanna tells me that I was right to take the Carretera LP 4112 for last 4K and that all that mud I had to negotiate around A Regruendo and before is like that ‘all year’ but worse now (probably due to the overnight snow and run off ). She says it’s ‘political ‘ ??? Not sure what she means by that tho.
My 'alternative' from Monforte to Escairón (in Laurie's guide) came after I read your posts, KinkyOne, about the overgrown sections.Part from Monforte to Torre Vilarino (to the asphalt road you have to cross actually) is notorious for being flooded, muddy, overgrown etc. Even after Reguengo I had no remorse sticking to 4112.
I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.Reb and I found the chiringuito open when we walked through a few years ago. They were cooking what looked like a huge meal for an incoming group and had little time for us, but we got a good cold drink and enjoyed just sitting there by the river. Has anyone seen or stayed at the Soldon apartment? It seems like a good option from Rúa but is maybe too close to Quiroga.
On to Pobra de Brollón for you Annie!!!
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