A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it

Camino Forum Store

Advertisement

Start Invierno 6 April 18

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#1
Hi Invierno pilgrims.
I’m hoping to start from Ponferrada around 6 April 18. , (after I finish Camino de Madrid )., so a day either side is possible.
After current weather , i am expecting to get wet feet at least.
I have printed out the new 2018 Invierno guide recently put up in resources by @peregrina2000 (thankyou Laurie ) and also Wise pilgrims app.
I have not booked accommodation yet as not definite on arrivals dates yet. I will more than likely book ahead for a couple of spots when I’m at least mid way into camino de Madrid and better able to judge arrival day in Ponferrada.
Looks like an interesting route.
If I choose 12 day walk with the following stages ., do you see any problem I may have managing to either walk in or pre book at either one or other of these stops ?
Day1 Las Medulas 27.2
Day 2. O’Barco de Valdeorras. 26.4
Day 3. A Rua de Valdeorras. 14.2
Day 4. Quiroga. 26.3
Day 5. A Pobra do Brollon 22.9
Day 6. Vilarino ((Fion) 26.7
Day 7. Chantada 15.9
Day 8. Rodeiro. 25.8
Day 9. Lalin. 21.3
Day10. Silleda. 15.6
Day11. Ponte Ulla 19.9
Day12. Santiago de Compostela 21.2

Open to any ideas if you have some.

Annie
 

Advertisment

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
#2
I doubt that you will need to book ahead, even when you meet up with the Sanabres, as it is neither a busy route of a busy time. However, I am certain you will get wet feet (at least!) as I walked it last year after a very fry spell and still had to be wary in a couple of places. Buon Camino
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#3
I doubt that you will need to book ahead, even when you meet up with the Sanabres, as it is neither a busy route of a busy time. However, I am certain you will get wet feet (at least!) as I walked it last year after a very fry spell and still had to be wary in a couple of places. Buon Camino
Thanks Mike for your thoughts + you're not leaving me with any illusions of having dry feet, lol.
Annie
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
#4
I start from Ponferrada on the Invierno one week later, on 13 April. It will be interesting to read your on the scene reports. I hope you post while walking.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#5
I start from Ponferrada on the Invierno one week later, on 13 April. It will be interesting to read your on the scene reports. I hope you post while walking.
Hi Tom
I’ll endeavour to report back, if I can connect.
Thanks for sharing your info with me on recent pm too.
The excitement of preparing for lift off is always the same. Still flapping about with gear etc but can’t stop checking the forum ! Lol.
It will be interesting to hear how different yours may be , starting a week later.
Annie
 

Advertisment

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
#6
My purpose in doing this route is to determine if it is suitable to advocate for others to use it to avoid the near saturation and commercialism experienced on the last stretches of the Camino Frances. Last summer and fall there was quite a lot of complaining across the forum on that subject.

The Invierno route is only about 38 km farther than the Camino Frances route. So, it seems logical. Also, the route has recently been fully vetted and accepted by the relevant authorities as an historic Camino route.

Laurie has the CSJ 2018 Invierno Guide covered, and Mike M. has the Wise Pilgrim Guide sorted. So, my interest is to experience it directly and make recommendations. I thought it would be best to have 'walked the walk...' so to speak, prior to advising other pilgrims one way or the other.

Hope to hear from you along the way.

Buen Camino!
 

Froggy012

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
may 2013, 2015 and walking the camino Madrid 2018 in april
#7
Hi Invierno pilgrims.
I’m hoping to start from Ponferrada around 6 April 18. , (after I finish Camino de Madrid )., so a day either side is possible.
After current weather , i am expecting to get wet feet at least.
I have printed out the new 2018 Invierno guide recently put up in resources by @peregrina2000 (thankyou Laurie ) and also Wise pilgrims app.
I have not booked accommodation yet as not definite on arrivals dates yet. I will more than likely book ahead for a couple of spots when I’m at least mid way into camino de Madrid and better able to judge arrival day in Ponferrada.
Looks like an interesting route.
If I choose 12 day walk with the following stages ., do you see any problem I may have managing to either walk in or pre book at either one or other of these stops ?
Day1 Las Medulas 27.2
Day 2. O’Barco de Valdeorras. 26.4
Day 3. A Rua de Valdeorras. 14.2
Day 4. Quiroga. 26.3
Day 5. A Pobra do Brollon 22.9
Day 6. Vilarino ((Fion) 26.7
Day 7. Chantada 15.9
Day 8. Rodeiro. 25.8
Day 9. Lalin. 21.3
Day10. Silleda. 15.6
Day11. Ponte Ulla 19.9
Day12. Santiago de Compostela 21.2

Open to any ideas if you have some.

Annie
look out for 6 aussies all over 60 commencing from Madrid on the 1st april and also walking the Invierno, no booking except for 2 days in Leon
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#8
Hi, Annie,
Getting excited for you! My one piece of advice would be to make sure to have time to visit As Médulas, it is a crazy spooky but pretty amazing place and a UNESCO site. IMO, walking around on the trail at the bottom is nowhere near as nice as getting up to the mirador and looking down. Get your body up there if you can! (the guide has good instructions to avoid the long loop that LT and I inadvertently found outselves on).

Have you heard any update on how long As Viñas in Pobra will be open?
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#9
look out for 6 aussies all over 60 commencing from Madrid on the 1st april and also walking the Invierno, no booking except for 2 days in Leon
Hi @Froggy012
Sounds like you’ll be a fun group !
I’m leaving Madrid on Friday March 23. Could be 3 possibly 5 if we locate each other. Not sure if any of them are walking Invierno though.
So should be ahead of you (jumping puddles , lol)
Have a Buen Camino
Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#10
Hi, Annie,
Getting excited for you! My one piece of advice would be to make sure to have time to visit As Médulas, it is a crazy spooky but pretty amazing place and a UNESCO site. IMO, walking around on the trail at the bottom is nowhere near as nice as getting up to the mirador and looking down. Get your body up there if you can! (the guide has good instructions to avoid the long loop that LT and I inadvertently found outselves on).

Have you heard any update on how long As Viñas in Pobra will be open?
Hi Laurie @peregrina2000
I was re reading about the closure in 2018, in your guide and also to certainly call if planning to stop. Will make a note if there is any update. I’ve heard no more on it tho.
Yes, I’ve circled the instructions on how to avoid the long loop.
I like papers notes to go with apps but I seem to have quite a lot of notes (from many regarding Camino Madrid ) plus your guide for Invierno. Adds to the weight / but I hate to discard any if it !!
I hope I remember to get my body up to the lookout
Thanks so much
Annie
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#12
My purpose in doing this route is to determine if it is suitable to advocate for others to use it to avoid the near saturation and commercialism experienced on the last stretches of the Camino Frances. Last summer and fall there was quite a lot of complaining across the forum on that subject.

The Invierno route is only about 38 km farther than the Camino Frances route. So, it seems logical. Also, the route has recently been fully vetted and accepted by the relevant authorities as an historic Camino route.

Laurie has the CSJ 2018 Invierno Guide covered, and Mike M. has the Wise Pilgrim Guide sorted. So, my interest is to experience it directly and make recommendations. I thought it would be best to have 'walked the walk...' so to speak, prior to advising other pilgrims one way or the other.

Hope to hear from you along the way.

Buen Camino!
Looking forward to hearing how it goes for the forum members using our "joint effort guide" https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/invierno-forum-guide.535/ this year. And if you are so inclined, please keep notes for the 2019 version! I would bet that there will be a lot of changes this year with all the activity and buzz about this Camino.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#13

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#14
Hi Invierno pilgrims.

Day 6. Vilarino ((Fion) 26.7
One big "coulda shoulda" of my last Invierno was that I did not take the short walk from the lovely casa rural Torre Vilarinho out to the lookout over the Minho River. The horseshoe meandering at that point is one of the most photographed spots of what is certainly a drop dead gorgeous river. And to add insult to injury, I also learned that there is a romanesque church just a bit beyond that point. Annie, if you get there, I will be so jealous! (but in a good way). Buen camino, Laurie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#15
One big "coulda shoulda" of my last Invierno was that I did not take the short walk from the lovely casa rural Torre Vilarinho out to the lookout over the Minho River. The horseshoe meandering at that point is one of the most photographed spots of what is certainly a drop dead gorgeous river. And to add insult to injury, I also learned that there is a romanesque church just a bit beyond that point. Annie, if you get there, I will be so jealous! (but in a good way). Buen camino, Laurie

This is what you keep on to me about every year, Laurie! I'll get it done some time, I promise!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#16
Thursday 5/4/18. Ponferrada
I’ve just arrived in my room. 5.30pm. Booked same hotel as you Tom. @t2andreo - Hotel Los Templarios..
Coming along in the train I kept shaking in my boots. Who am I kidding. They are some large hills I passed through on the train. They tell me rain is forecast for next 5 days. I need a lot of that ‘ánimo’. encouragement now.
I don’t tend to believe in forecasts 100%. So hoping I’ll have a bit of help from above.
Just a day at a time. - one step at a time, I’m telling myself.
Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#17
Thursday 5/4/18. Ponferrada
I’ve just arrived in my room. 5.30pm. Booked same hotel as you Tom. @t2andreo - Hotel Los Templarios..
Coming along in the train I kept shaking in my boots. Who am I kidding. They are some large hills I passed through on the train. They tell me rain is forecast for next 5 days. I need a lot of that ‘ánimo’. encouragement now.
I don’t tend to believe in forecasts 100%. So hoping I’ll have a bit of help from above.
Just a day at a time. - one step at a time, I’m telling myself.
Annie
Mucho ánimo, Annie! It looks like the weather forecast is correct, but it's only tomorrow when it will be raining a lot. Enjoy this beautiful camino.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#18
Hi, Annie,
Remember you can stop in Borrenes tomorrow if you are tired. Really hope you have time to enjoy As Médulas, because it is one wild and crazy UNESCO site.

Can't wait to follow along, buen camino, Laurie

ÁNIMO peregrina!!!!!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#19
Hi, Annie,
Remember you can stop in Borrenes tomorrow if you are tired. Really hope you have time to enjoy As Médulas, because it is one wild and crazy UNESCO site.

Can't wait to follow along, buen camino, Laurie

ÁNIMO peregrina!!!!!
Annie, I would follow Laurie's advice especially if the weather forecast turn out to be true. But remember that there's completely new albergue even closer to Ponferrada - in Villavieja. You just might be the first pilgrim to sleep in it if you decide to stop there :)
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#20
Hi, Annie,
Remember you can stop in Borrenes tomorrow if you are tired. Really hope you have time to enjoy As Médulas, because it is one wild and crazy UNESCO site.

Can't wait to follow along, buen camino, Laurie

ÁNIMO peregrina!!!!!
Thanks for advice from all - honestly feeling very nervous. Then I always do at the start.
I’m at cafe Le lechera around the corner from my hotel last night. Los Templarios.. very quiet. Good. Booking dot com rate yesterday was E30.
Le lechera opens at 7am. I spent time on my foot prep/. Ps blisters under control and are looking good but I don’t want them to start up today ..
I didn’t get here at 7am as I really didn’t expect them to be open. Nothing else seems to be.
Hopefully rain will hold off until this afternoon.

Onward !!
Annie
 

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
#21
Buen camino, Annie!
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
C. de Salvador/Primitivo (2018)
#22
I'm following this, looking forward to your updates.
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
#23
As I already packed my rucksack and carry-on, preparatory to flying to Madrid this coming Tuesday, I am now watching the weather. Using www.WeatherUnderground.com, on my home computer, I can see the 'calendar' trend over the next several weeks. The detail information is better than on the iPhone app.

For Ponferrada, it shows a 30 - 70% chance of rain daily, now through about Sunday, 15 April. After that, it appears to be clear weather for the following couple of weeks. I checked Santiago as well, and the same pattern is present / forecast. As I expect to be there for about five days, the last week of April, this would be welcome. Santiago is magical at any time, but best when it is dry, at least IMHO.

So, it almost looks like OzAnnie will be swimming, and I will be walking in more or less dry weather. However, as much of this Camino is in Galicia, I know to be prepared for rain...and MUD...I HATE MUD! If there is a cloud in the sky, it will find me. So, I take the published forecast with several grains of salt.;)

Temperatures are forecast to be in the 60s (F) throughout most of the remainder of April. I look forward to seeing lots of spring flowers.:)

Later folks...
 
Last edited:

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
#24
Buen camino, t2 andreo!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#26
You can't mean me, because I have ordered a month of clear skies and delightful temperatures. ;)
Lol
I took Tom to mean that because you are in south of Spain Laurie , you’ll be at the beach ! What day does your ‘pack’ start ?
Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#27
Day 1. Ponferrada to Las Médulas...
Leaving this morning /as I was at the cross taking the camino Invierno ., there were about 20 pilgrims crossing in the CF direction. I had seen loads whilst having breakfast.

I saw one peregrino walking Invierno; shortly after leaving Ponferrada but he charged off very quickly. No others that I saw today.

Argh ! Feet know all about it. It’s no walk in the park!

I could lead you up the garden path for a while, describing all the beautiful vistas, spring flowers emerging, and sweet pueblos. They are all there !!!! The first section was as I sort of expected . Uphill but then through pleasant villages. I have a few queries with Laurie’s guide and how I walked it but will do another post.
At Toral de Merayo the only cafe open was the one across the bridge on left. Had a coffee there. Nothing else opened after that (that I recognised as an open bar) until Borrenes. Villalibre de la Jurisdicción was an unusual old place with nothing there ., but it was such a pretty nothing. Lots of cats everywhere and puppies. I was not annoyed by dogs at all today. Coming through these quiet pueblos, there were often old chairs or benches where you could rest. Then it was the up up up up , constant up as @KinkyOne mentions. You could cut 4ks off if you chanced the traffic on the Careterra (where camini swings about into Villavieja) but would be a bit to dangerous.
Up up up to castle. (No I enjoyed the view trudging up)., I wanted to beat the rainforecast which didn’t happen. So wasn’t stopping for tour !!! No way. Feet feet feet said ‘are you kidding me?’

Then Down to Borrenes, if I’d been offered a lift ., I would have grabbed it but no offers.
Had Lomo and chips and cania at bar casa marisol in Borrenes. (They didn’t have anything else - it was almost chips and salad. Meal was very satisfying) Guy running it ., asked where I was staying tonight and I told him I was going to call Casa Soccoro I Las Médulas. He called them for me to reserve room, and he was very helpful so I added something to the total owed of E6.60
More up up up. to Las Médulas., so won’t say I went to the mirador ... to me the whole day was a mirador. I’m sure it’s the uppest day I’ve had as a constant on any camino ? Or is it only age ??

The guy at first tourist info in Las Médulas was still helpful and had English. (A little ).

Casa Soccoro is quiet - cost for bedroom (separate bathroom) including a desayuno prepared previous night for heating by pilgrim when it suits them is total E20. Her name is Soccoro and she calls hubby Errie as his name is too long.

There has been ‘ run off ‘ on certain sections, So mud at those.
But mostly you could find a way around it.

Just so much up. But I was singing a lot of the way as it was a wonderful experience..
if I was 50 years younger ., a different story with the hills I’m sure.
But I’m here. Made it to Las Médulas- Glad I spat out that fear and seized the day. Such beauty.
So far / its a wonderful camino.

Annie

Edit: I’m in cafeteria Marife in Las Médulas and looking out window to see the rain has found me. It’s been raining since about 7.20pm.

Still feeling positive about leaving in the morning. Hopefully rain will keep away until later in the day.
 
Last edited:

norelle

Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2011 April, 2014 March) San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia (June 2015) Del Norte (Sept/Oct 2016)
#28
I'm still following you Annie! Well done today
Buen Camino
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#29
Hi, Annie,
Thanks for thinking about the guide. Those villages right at the start are all sort of a blur to me. Kinky has a much better memory of the difference between Toral de Merayo, Villalibre, Priaranza, etc. When I walked it most recently, LT and I had just made the acquaintance of a young seminarian from Salamanca and were engrossed in conversation. I remember that he and I tried to go off Camino to find some romanesque ruins, I think it was at Toral de Merayo, but it was a total bust. We wandered our way around till we finally found arrows again in some vineyards. I would not be surprised to see that the guide is somewhat confusing at that spot.

And so glad to hear that you made it and enjoyed the walk to As Medulas.

Lots of good local wine waiting for your sipping enjoyment over the next few days! Buen camino, Laurie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#31
Ps
1- Borrenes. re prices at Bar Casa Marisol. Not steep when I came through. Very reasonable. Perhaps it depends on who is on duty. I was served by a guy called ‘Saturno’. Couldn’t have been more helpful.
2- leaving Borrenes. When you are heading out of town and at point on Invierno guide where you are expecting to see turn off for Las Médulas.. there is a turn to left / it is camino real and says to Carucedo as one of the destinations. At that point , straight ahead will take you to the road. No ,
I turned left here and from then on , the signs are pretty consistent (3 ways pointers). Back to Borrenes, right to Carucedo or straight ahead to Las Médulas.

3. Casa Soccoro. Okay, but I was cold. Even though there was a heater in the room. Got out my thermal liner and donned a lot of clothes. Even put the floor mat on the bed .. I don’t like being chilled.
Okay later though.
- shower water etc was cold. Gave it forever and eventually warmish, tried to have a shower and eek , ran cold. Got dressed and went to ask Soccoro., she came up and got warm (only ) again - I chanced it but it was freezing when I hopped in. So it was a matter of wait , run it and eventually get 1 minute of warm water and then cold. Repeat. Must be on a one minute timer .,, or I lucked out on the night.
I managed to shower but didn’t risk hair wash

You may not have any trouble , possibly the bathroom ??

Everyone I passed when they asked where I’d sleep mentioned Casa Soccoro., it must be a popular choice ?

No wifi in Casa Soccoro but used wifi at cafe Marife the night before. No problem there.

Also bar at first stop of the day - across the bridge in plaza. Wifi was excellent.

Buen Camino.
Annie
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
#32
Annie:

Can you compare the initial 'up slope' grade to something perhaps more familiar to those who have done the Frances but not the Invierno, yet... I leave in three days...and will be following your route as from 13 April.

For example, how does it compare to the first day up to Orisson? Or, perhaps the long 12% slog after Castrojeriz?

Thanks in advance.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#33
Hi Tom
He he. I’ve been thinking of you as ive trudged uphill. I keep saying to myself : not more up?
But remember I’m a bit ‘long in the tooth’ and feeling it in the legs and feet. I’m sure it’s a walk in the park for K1 and P2000 who seem to have extra energy to investigate everything historical etc; en route.
Me, I’m boring ., as I’m basically walking from place to place. Any extra does me in.
Answer to your question : I don’t recall feeling as ‘knackered’ before. On primitivo , salvadore , up to ORISSON . I definitely didn’t notice my climb to O’cebrero ... so I’m thinking I have either deteriorated a lot since or it’s more up on this route. There seem to be more ups than down.
Definitely (IMHO) not a way for sissies or first timers. What makes it worth it is the beauty .. it’s unbelievably beautiful.
You know the saying : what goes up must come down ? Well in reverse with caminos.
I thought the up and down start of the Norte was taxing but my legs are hurting more the past two days . Could be that I know that rain is forecast and keep plodding while the sun shines rather than get wet if I dawdle.
I thought about your planned stage from Borrenes and (remembering the Long downhill to Borrenes ) offsetting that; is uphill out of town. I would rethink the total of your next stage if it’s possible to get a ride. /taxi to las Médulas.. not advising you ., but if you think your stage is too long., letting you know that there is a bit of climbing
 
Last edited:

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#34
Hi Tom
He he. I’ve been thinking of you as ive trudged uphill. I keep saying to myself : not more up?
But remember I’m a bit ‘long in the tooth’ and feeling it in the legs and feet. I’m sure it’s a walk in the park for K1 and P2000 who seem to have extra energy to investigate everything historical etc; en route.
Me, I’m boring ., as I’m basically walking from place to place. Any extra does me in.
Answer to your question : I don’t recall feeling as ‘knackered’ before. On primitivo , salvadore , up to ORISSON . I definitely didn’t notice my climb to O’cebrero ... so I’m thinking I have either deteriorated a lot since or it’s more up on this route. There seem to be more ups than down.
Definitely (IMHO) not a way for sissies or first timers. What makes it worth it is the beauty .. it’s unbelievably beautiful.
You know the saying : what goes up must come down ? Well in reverse with caminos.
I thought the up and down start of the Norte was taxing but my legs are hurting more the past two days . Could be that I know that rain is forecast and keep plodding while the sun shines rather than get wet if it dawdle.
I thought about your planned stage from Borrenes and (remembering the Long downhill to Borrenes ) offsetting that; is uphill out of town. I would rethink the total of your next stage if it’s possible to get a ride. /taxi to las Médulas.. not advising you ., but if you think your stage is too long., letting you know that there is a bit of climbing
Laurie is a real trooper, I'm just one lazy beer drinker :D

That uphill to Villavieja was really something. Can be compared to the one which still awaits you from Rio Mino up in direction of Chantada or maybe, but just maybe because it's shorter, with the one from SJPdP to Orisson. I have found Foncebaddon and O'Cebreiro at least 30% easier than to Orisson.

For example - I did Rabanal-Foncebaddon in 45 minutes just to prove that it is no big deal. Of course I was soaked wet and I drank 3 large beers afterwards but it's not that hard. Up to Villavieja it's alpine ascent actually. But a short one and with magnificent views as Annie mentioned. And there is an albergue now! I would encourage you to take it Tom!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#35
Day 2. Las Médulas to O’Barco de Valdeorras
Firstly , the guide has been very good. Lots of good tips on accommodation etc Laurie and I’d say in last 12 mths there have been additional arrows and majones added plus rest stops with tables and benches.
The tips in guide on coming into Puente de Domingo Flórez., I read and followed rather than looping around to the river. I found cafe bar Los Arcos and hoped to have breakfast. They could serve toast but no butter, jam, honey , tomato ... just oil ... I think she was trying to tell me the shop that supplies her was at fault. Enjoyed the coffee anyhow.
Next onward, I can see the bridge but don’t cross there ; my direction needs to be up first and follow good signage out of town. .,
Before Pumares In the guide is a mention of possible dog . He was there (German shepherd ) but on a chain that you could see would not get anywhere near you. Not a bit scary.
Pumares I stopped to enjoy the village. Had a snack. Sobradelo , I was a little confused with guide as it states first establishment you come to is;Centro Social Pontenova. I thought I’d missed it as you have to walk through quite a number of homes or buildings and into village before you get there. When I saw a place ., I thought ah ! Open bar. 2.30pm. But sadly., no menu Del dia Saturday. I had to haggle to get anything.
Ensalada mixta con atún and plate of fritas and cania con limón. When I got their stamp ‘ voila ‘ it was the Centro mentioned in the guide. I thought I’d missed it.
I didn’t look any further just headed uphill (naturally ) (I’d come to realise not to expect much downhill.) to join the OU-0801
A little way on there was a camino marker indicating left. It wasn’t a track. Just took me to a cliff. !
Reversed out and continued on road and went to camino sign indicating right and down into Entoma .
I think it would be worth thinking about staying on road to O’Barco to cut out the down and up.
I stopped in Entoma for a cania at Bar Martillo.
When I was leaving a gentleman gave me an information booklet on camino Invierno. Very nice I thought.
Heading off it started to rain (not too heavily )..
More up up. Then down and up.
Eventually upon reaching what I thought was O’Barco ( this place is a really big regional town)..I went into first bar. San Roque about 5.30 And found that my ‘pension do lar’ was still over 30 minutes walk. That was it. Too much for me.
The girl there rang me a taxi which only cost E5 to drop me off at the middle of town ‘Pension do lar’
Room (excellent ) with wifi and own bathroom E30.
(Not E25 as quoted in guide Laurie). Price updated.
They don’t do breakfast on Sunday but the chocolateria ;opposite ) opens at 7am. Checked to make sure. (Does tostada, coffee croissants etc).

I had a little dinner tonight to check the dining out .
The chef ‘Sante’ Made me a primero of calamaris.
I didn’t want a main (after that lunch in Sobradelo).
He made me strawberries and cream. Yum yum
I tried the recommended local white wine and he gave me a shot of some coffee liqueur.. bit woozy !
Sante (the chef) hails from Vigo in the coast and speaks very good English. Even showed me how to get my heating working in my room. (Room service ).
The bar guy was equally helpful . His name is Carmelo. Anna arrived about 9pm. Dinner is served quite late.
Very happy with the friendliness of this establishment.
I have noticed a few people on Invierno gave me looks and asked why I was travelling ‘sola’ I suppose they are caring and don’t think it is the right thing. (Travelling without a companion).

After 2 biggish days for me I have reserved a comfortable room for tomorrow at ‘A Rua.. the Pacio do Sil. Booking dot com E60.
I’ll decide when I get there whether I’ll just have an easy day or leave my bag there and walk to Montefurado and train back after 6pm to shorten following day- or just enjoy an easy day...

Annie
 
Last edited:

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#36
...Sobradelo , I was a little confused with guide as it states first establishment you come to is;Centro Social Pontenova. I thought I’d missed it as you have to walk through quite a number of homes or buildings and into village before you get there. When I saw a place ., I thought ah ! Open bar. 2.30pm. But sadly., no menu Del dia Saturday. I had to haggle to get anything.
...
Centro Social is on the left side of the road. If you follow the same road just a little bit further (20mts) after the Y fork (Camino goes to the right at Y fork) there is this very welcoming bar on the right immediately after Y fork with owner accommodating pilgrims on further notice. Cold beer, tapas and view over the town down by the river...


...
After 2 biggish days for me I have reserved a comfortable room for tomorrow at ‘A Rua.. the Pacio do Sil. Booking dot com E60.
I’ll decide when I get there whether I’ll just have an easy day or leave my bag there and walk to Montefurado and train back after 6pm to shorten following day- or just enjoy an easy day...
You could stay at Asun in her albergue and saved approx.48€ if mentioned 60€ are for 2 days. You would have a three bedroom for yourself and en-suite bathroom.
Good thinking about Montefurado and train though especially if your feet still giving you problems!


Ultreia!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#38
Thanks so much, Annie, there is a lot of good stuff in here that will go right into the 2019 edition! My guess is that prices will keep rising as the camino gets more popular until the demand triggers competition and then there will be choices and lower prices, don't you love capitalism? And I see how you could have been confused when the guide says that the first thing you come to is the Centro Social in Sobradelo. It's definitely not the first building you come to, you have a stroll from the entrance of town to get to the Centro Social, but then after the Centro is the other nice bar, and a little further on is the center of town with its many places -- we can clarify these kinds of things, it is so helpful to hear how you reacted to what we wrote.

About the climb up to As Médulas. You will probably be surprised to compare some numbers. From Ponferrada to As Médulas, it's a total of about 650 m elevation gain, combining the ascent to Cornatel plus the ascent to As Médulas. That is about half of the ascent you make from SJPP to Lepoeder (the high point). It's also less than O'Cebreiro, where there's about 800 m gain. But it's about the same as Hospitales (though steeper) and less than the climb from Pola de Allande. (both of these on the Primitivo).

I think this just illustrates how so many different factors influence how tired we get or how tough we think a stage is. Maybe part of what made this first day so hard was the 300 m descent to Borrenes in between the two ascents. Most of that is on a road, which tires me a lot more than dirt trails. But your experience does suggest that others might consider shortening this first day, especially to allow time to see As Médulas a bit. I know some who stayed the first night in Borrenes, then went up to As Médulas, had a nice walk around, and then went on to Puente Domingo Flórez for the night.

And I think your idea about a little splurge in Pacio de Sil is an excellent one! Yes, you will miss the chance to meet Asún and her mom and they are really wonderful, but a little luxury may be just what you need.

Buen camino, I will follow eagerly till Saturday, when I will start walking from Almería, Laurie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#39
Thanks for wonderful responses. I really had hoped to stay with Asun to possibly hear more of her knowledge on treatments etc but somehow was thinking it was a dormitory and just right now I’m not sure I wanted to be in a dorm. (Starting to enjoy solitude ?) Kinky says they have private rooms ? Bad luck for me as I’ve already booked and confirmed. Kinky it is E60 for one night.
That’s why I might just get there and enjoy the day.

Laurie
Yes , I think planning days I looked at some people doing 9, so expected planning on 12 would be fine. I think 14 in my case, would suit better for adjusting distances of etapas and days length. You do include that breakup but sometimes we sort of think we fit in the middle , lol. I always try to squeeze too much into my days available overseas. I really need to get over that. 12 is quite achievable tho, if you’re not having issues with fitness.

Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#40
Another note - with early season start the daylight isn’t early ., which means starting later for me. I’m not one to bound out of bed hrs before light.
Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#41
Hi, Annie.

It's great reading your posts, and you're making me feel really jealous! The Invierno is my favourite Camino, as I just need peace and quiet, stunning scenery and friendly people. Just the opposite to what you find on the more travelled routes, especially the Francés.

I'll mention a few more of the points you've made in another post a bit later today.

If you're staying at the Pacio do Sil you'll find the people to be charming, It's a bit of a splurge, but well worth it, even though it's very slightly off the Camino. Prepare yourself for a really hearty breakfast tomorrow morning, with all sorts of homemade goodies!

Should you decide to walk on to Montefurado this afternoon, and then get the train back to A Rúa, the owner will drive you to Montefurado tomorrow morning so that you can start again from there.

Today's stage from O Barco to A Rúa is not the most exciting, but you'll enjoy some spectacular scenery tomorrow, especially after Montefurado. In Chantada, you must try and eat in Casa Aroza, just up the road from the main street.
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#42
Annie:

Just a couple of comments on your previous posts, mainly about bars/cafés!

As an early bird, I’ve never found a bar open in Toral de Merayo! There are definitely a couple of places in Santalla del Bierzo, though, on the main road: one on the left (irregular opening hours, then Café Bar Ronda on the right).

The walk up to the castle is worth it for the views, but you’re right in saying that it’s a bit tough. Ask KinkyOne what he thought about it! If you want a real tough ascent, try the one from Combarro to Armenteira on the Camino Portugués (Variante Espiritual). That was something like 10 kilometres going up up up, but the views back down to the Ría de Pontevedra are simply stunning.

On my last Invierno, I really struggled over the last never-ending section from Borrenes to Las Médulas, mainly because I ran out of water and had had nothing to eat (Café Bar Marisol hadn’t opened, and I couldn’t be bothered waiting)!

In Puente de Domingo Flórez you’d have been better walking past Café Bar Los Arcos, as there’s another small place open on the square (market on Saturdays), or the extremely pilgrim friendly Bar El Cruce back on the main road.

In Sobradelo, Centro Social Pontenova is on your left, and Bar Manolo is just over the other side, at the top of the street that goes down to the seven-arched bridge (with Restaurante Museo on the other side).

Bar Martillo in Éntoma is pleasant, and you definitely can continue along the road if you want to avoid the ‘typical’ Camino marked routes that take you up for a kilometre or two and then back down to the road you were on previously!

It’s true what you say about O Barco. You think you’re there, but the outskirts go on for ever, and the pensiones are all towards the other end!

Anyway, you’ll no doubt be relaxing in Pacio do Sil when you read this.

Buen Camino!
 
Last edited:

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#43
Hi, Annie.

It's great reading your posts, and you're making me feel really jealous! The Invierno is my favourite Camino, as I just need peace and quiet, stunning scenery and friendly people. Just the opposite to what you find on the more travelled routes, especially the Francés.

I'll mention a few more of the points you've made in another post a bit later today.

If you're staying at the Pacio do Sil you'll find the people to be charming, It's a bit of a splurge, but well worth it, even though it's very slightly off the Camino. Prepare yourself for a really hearty breakfast tomorrow morning, with all sorts of homemade goodies!

Should you decide to walk on to Montefurado this afternoon, and then get the train back to A Rúa, the owner will drive you to Montefurado tomorrow morning so that you can start again from there.

Today's stage from O Barco to A Rúa is not the most exciting, but you'll enjoy some spectacular scenery tomorrow, especially after Montefurado. In Chantada, you must try and eat in Casa Aroza, just up the road from the main street.
Hi Charrito
Thanks for such a lot of info.
I asked about breakfast. She mentioned it’s E5 and described tostada etc. you may have been a favourite? I’m always happy with tostada & cafe con leche tho.
Re leaving - she mentioned I could get a taxi or Alba (that’s how it sounded ) may drive me. I’ve asked for the price but will discuss this evening.
I’ll do a post for the day next.
Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#44
Hi Charrito
Thanks for such a lot of info.
I asked about breakfast. She mentioned it’s E5 and described tostada etc. you may have been a favourite? I’m always happy with tostada & cafe con leche tho.
Re leaving - she mentioned I could get a taxi or Alba (that’s how it sounded ) may drive me. I’ve asked for the price but will discuss this evening.
I’ll do a post for the day next.
Annie
This is what I wrote here lasy year, Annie.

Excellent breakfast in the Casa Rural, with home-made everything and loads to take away! Setting off from Montefurado around 08.20 meant that I could take my time and enjoy the incredible scenery, but knowing that I would get to Quiroga in time for a meal at Casa Aroza!

Perhaps I booked the room with breakfast included; I can't remember. I do recall that they had home-made butter, fresh milk, different kinds of marmalade, a huge pot of coffee . . . . .

The owner told me that he had taken some other pilgrims to Montefurado previously, but they hadn't done my 'trick' of walking on from A Rúa in the afternoon and then catching the train back!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#45
Day 3. From O’Barco to A Rúa / (montefurado)
O’barco - It was rainy and dark but left pension do lar and crossed street to chocolateria. had a slow desayuno waiting for rain the ease . It didn’t , so donned my wet gear and left at 8.35.
I wasn’t hurrying as I wasn’t trying to beat to rain (it was here!). Not heavy tho, and stopped and started all the way. Some nice patches.
I was in A Rua at 11.20 but no bars open. Ist one San Roque. Closed - next one ditto. A lady I asked a few questions rallied around and asked a chap if he’d drive me up to El Pacio do sil as all I really wanted at that point was (baño).. I knew it was too early to arrive as their hours are quoted as from 1pm. However this driver rang them for me when the bell wasn’t answered. He wouldn’t take payment - People are so nice !
They let me in and still sorted me out - she even made me a cup of coffee with her own home made cookies and cake !!!! Then went off to finish the room.
When I was sorted, I had a rest and decided to get moving at about 2pm. I thought I’d regret it the next day if I didn’t. So 2.15pm I left A Rua at it took me 3 hrs (rained 1/2 the walk).to get to this desolate station at Montefurado. I’m just hoping a train actually stops here at 6.10pm. It’s Sunday but I found an old chap up town (only person about ). He said it runs Sunday.
Looking forward to some food when I get back to A Rua. I’ve only had cake and coffee all day.

I thought the ist section to A Rua was good even though it rained - There was a section where arrows pointed both ways but I could see by heading toward the river there was a new mojon ahead. So went straight and then curved right following the pretty walk along the river. All the way. I didn’t cross over to the town of Arcos from this way to look for coffee, just kept on. Same with Vilamartín.. I didn’t go over the river. Just kept straight on. Signage is excellent.

Started out sore but limbered up as I warmed up.

The afternoon walk from A Rua seemed to drag on a bit (kilometres that is ). Scenery is worth the walk.
The directions when you come to the lumber yard. No problems. There are a few arrows there plus a new mojon.
Also there is a 2nd under tunnel if you miss the first.

Annie
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#46
...
I thought the ist section to A Rua was good even though it rained - There was a section where arrows pointed both ways but I could see by heading toward the river there was a new mojon ahead. So went straight and then curved right following the pretty walk along the river. All the way. I didn’t cross over to the town of Arcos from this way to look for coffee, just kept on. Same with Vilamartín.. I didn’t go over the river. Just kept straight on. Signage is excellent.
...
Do I understand correctly that you walked past Vilamartin with river on your righthand side? If not why did you wrote you didn't go over the river? I mean why would you?
In 2014 I walked through sports complex with the river on my lefthand side...
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#47
Hi, Annie,
I was just going to head off the forum and your post came up. So glad to see it!

Yes, the scenery between A Rua and Montefurado is quite good. We have @Charrito to thank for the suggestion about adding on this segment to the short day into A Rua.

Tomorrow, your walk into Quiroga will seem oh so short! Looking at the stages as you originally posted them, I think you will have smooth sailing from here on. Since you are stopping in Pobra de Brollón, you will break up what would otherwise be a long day from Quiroga to Monforte. BTW, have you called As Viñas in Pobra to see whether they are still open? I spoke with the woman a few weeks ago, as I'm sure I told you and she wasn't sure whether they would still be open in May, but this is April, so maybe you will be in luck. She also said she can call a place she trusts for you and arrange to have you picked up, etc. So I think you will be fine!

Buen camino, and I hope you have a wonderful dinner tonight!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#48
Do I understand correctly that you walked past Vilamartin with river on your righthand side? If not why did you wrote you didn't go over the river? I mean why would you?
In 2014 I walked through sports complex with the river on my lefthand side...
Kinky - just saying I didn’t deviate from the way -no extra distance added going into pueblos looking for cafes/bars ...that would probably be closed on Sundays anyway.
Walking straight past Vilamartín the river on my left. - I didn’t cross the bridge/river there (looking for coffee ) or any other reason.

Regarding climbs - I don’t have gadgets to records metres etc but I do have a (broken ) Fitbit.
It records ‘floors ‘ climbed.
The first section to A Rua which I walked with backpack was only 26 floors ., whereas the afternoon jaunt to Montefurado (sin mochilla) was 78 floors. Not that this is anywhere near the climbs of day 1 and 2. Just shows that the earlier walk was very gentle.
My Fitbit recorded 263 floor climbed on day 1 and 153 on day 2. My higher number of floors climbed before that this year was from Manzanares el Real to Cercedilla which was 200.
I’m putting this here to indicate to @t2andreo
the difference in the days.

As @peregrina2000 noted yesterday ., the pain or effort we remember is based on whether you are fresh, fit , morning etc Probably if I tackled Borrenes to Las Médulas in the morning rather than the end of the day it would have worked out better. All easy to see with hindsight though.

I noticed an actual bath In my room just before I left. I’ll make use of that tonight. It’s so good to have a warm soak after a good walk.

I’ve still to locate a place to eat. I found a bar in A Rúa open called cafeteria melin. I asked for tapas (huevo with tasty fishy thing ) - and vino Tinto
And it was only .70. ?? Wow.

Oh yes the train back from Montefurado. - thanks @Charrito I was concerned that I would be waiting on wrong platform. Old guy has told me to wait on 2.
Train came in on track just over. I must have made a few laugh, panicking that I’d miss it.
The guard on train just indicated to relax and go to end of platform and cross.
Fare was E2.15
I feel great having negotiated all that today and knowing that the rest of the stages should hopefully be achievable.

Ps to @t2andreo I think it was coming down to ARua. There is a section with a lot of new gravel.
I was being careful but nearly ‘lost it’ on 4 occasions. Saved myself with my trusty poles and balance !!!

Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#49
Hi, Annie,
I was just going to head off the forum and your post came up. So glad to see it!

Yes, the scenery between A Rua and Montefurado is quite good. We have @Charrito to thank for the suggestion about adding on this segment to the short day into A Rua.

Tomorrow, your walk into Quiroga will seem oh so short! Looking at the stages as you originally posted them, I think you will have smooth sailing from here on. Since you are stopping in Pobra de Brollón, you will break up what would otherwise be a long day from Quiroga to Monforte. BTW, have you called As Viñas in Pobra to see whether they are still open? I spoke with the woman a few weeks ago, as I'm sure I told you and she wasn't sure whether they would still be open in May, but this is April, so maybe you will be in luck. She also said she can call a place she trusts for you and arrange to have you picked up, etc. So I think you will be fine!

Buen camino, and I hope you have a wonderful dinner tonight!
Thanks for reminder on this one Laurie
I just called As Vinas in A Pobra.
(I hope that’s who I contacted. / it’s noisy in the bar here ).. the number I called : 982430124
They okayed a room for me for Tuesday 10th.
With bath for E25. He could have said ‘incluido desayuno’ also; but I’m not too worried if I misheard that bit.
So room settled for A Pobra ... Actually, I just called him back as I’d booked in error for ‘tomorrow’ and now corrected. I’ll be in Quiroga tomorrow.
I’ll try to get into the private albergue in Quiroga.
I tried to email the ‘info address’ on guide but it kicked back. Also tried calling Eduardo 669812659 and couldn’t make contact. So hoping I’ll find them open tomorrow.
No doubt if they are not., I should be able to find something ? Hoping anyway ?

Still wet outside. Looks like getting much wetter for next week or so.
But I’m still smiling.
Annie
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#50
Thanks for reminder on this one Laurie
I just called As Vinas in A Pobra.
(I hope that’s who I contacted. / it’s noisy in the bar here ).. the number I called : 982430124
They okayed a room for me for Tuesday 10th.
With bath for E25. He could have said ‘incluido desayuno’ also; but I’m not too worried if I misheard that bit.
So room settled for A Pobra ... Actually, I just called him back as I’d booked in error for ‘tomorrow’ and now corrected. I’ll be in Quiroga tomorrow.
I’ll try to get into the private albergue in Quiroga.
I tried to email the ‘info address’ on guide but it kicked back. Also tried calling Eduardo 669812659 and couldn’t make contact. So hoping I’ll find them open tomorrow.
No doubt if they are not., I should be able to find something ? Hoping anyway ?

Still wet outside. Looks like getting much wetter for next week or so.
But I’m still smiling.
Annie
The hostal where I stay is on the same street as the Albergue, just keep walking if you can’t get the Albergue guy. Have a great day tomorrow. !!!!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#51
Hi, Annie,

I think you are mistaken about private albergue in Quiroga. There isn't one. Only one is a huge 150-190 beds muni albergue. If you are calling Eduardo this is the one. I guess hospitaleros there are working in shifts and when I came there was a notice on the entrance doors with a number which didn't match any of the five I've had. And a lady came not Eduardo :)
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#52
Ps. Having heebie jeebies here at El Pacio (casa rural). I’ve seen crawlies on window ledge but too late to rouse the owners. I’ve hung my gear up on shower rail and set my mochilla on the bidet !!
I hope I can sleep.

Keep you posted. I’ll definitly inform them tomorrow !! Itch itch !! I’ve never had a bite before.

Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#53
Hi, Annie,

I think you are mistaken about private albergue in Quiroga. There isn't one. Only one is a huge 150-190 beds muni albergue. If you are calling Eduardo this is the one. I guess hospitaleros there are working in shifts and when I came there was a notice on the entrance doors with a number which didn't match any of the five I've had. And a lady came not Eduardo :)
Thanks. K1. I’ve got the backup above from Laurie. So hoping I’m fine.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#54
Ps. Having heebie jeebies here at El Pacio (casa rural). I’ve seen crawlies on window ledge but too late to rouse the owners. I’ve hung my gear up on shower rail and set my mochilla on the bidet !!
I hope I can sleep.

Keep you posted. I’ll definitly inform them tomorrow !! Itch itch !! I’ve never had a bite before.

Annie
Interesting. If you mean bedbugs. Because exactly in A Rua Asun helped me with them critters. I was on the edge of nervous breakdown because of more than 100 bites. I was maybe a day or two from decision to throw myself on the floor of the nearest ER or psychiatric ward and say they can do with myself whatever they wish because I had enough ;)
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#55
Yep - that’s what I mean.
I was standing at the ledge after I took the room and had a map of A Rua on the ledge. At that time I thought they might be but wasn’t sure.
When I returned to room tonight (late 9.30pm) I stood there barefoot and saw a little black thing on my foot. I grabbed it and squashed it. Looked like one to me. So have gone crazy hanging my gear away. Here’s hoping. I doubt I’ll sleep tho. I’ll be turning lights on to see if there’s any movement.

Yuk yuk yuk.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#56
Yep - that’s what I mean.
I was standing at the ledge after I took the room and had a map of A Rua on the ledge. At that time I thought they might be but wasn’t sure.
When I returned to room tonight (late 9.30pm) I stood there barefoot and saw a little black thing on my foot. I grabbed it and squashed it. Looked like one to me. So have gone crazy hanging my gear away. Here’s hoping. I doubt I’ll sleep tho. I’ll be turning lights on to see if there’s any movement.

Yuk yuk yuk.
Bedbugs are not black, Annie :)
https://www.google.si/search?q=bedb...zKvaAhXiDsAKHa0GBPAQ_AUICigB&biw=1366&bih=662

Good night!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#57
NOT bedbugs - phew
I’m just starting where alba dropped me back to yesterday’s walk at church at Montefurado.

I showed Julia. The little critters in the room. They do crawl but are tiny black insects getting through screen from outside.

Just wanted to clear their name.

Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#58
Annie:

You'll definitely get breakfast downstairs in As Viñas. Just tell her what time and she'll be ready for you. Great people, by the way. If you're struggling after the climb out of Quiroga, and the steep walk down to Barxa de Lor, head left just after the Roman bridge, walk along the river a few hundred yards, and have a cold (or hot!) drink in Pensión Pacita. The guy from As Viñas will also pick you up from there if you don't fancy the slog up to Castroncelos.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#59
Annie:

You'll definitely get breakfast downstairs in As Viñas. Just tell her what time and she'll be ready for you. Great people, by the way. If you're struggling after the climb out of Quiroga, and the steep walk down to Barxa de Lor, head left just after the Roman bridge, walk along the river a few hundred yards, and have a cold (or hot!) drink in Pensión Pacita. The guy from As Viñas will also pick you up from there if you don't fancy the slog up to Castroncelos.
Thanks Charrito , I guess this must be the ‘tough one’?
I was just reading about that service in Laurie’s Invierno guide. Ps. In my rush back to cross the tracks yesterday .,I dropped my hard copy guide. !!! I had heaps of highlighted info. Luckily I still have it downloaded in my ‘ibooks’ but Prefer paper notes.
I’m also reading kinkys notes which are helpful. And refer to maps me for encouragement sometimes.
Great to get your timely tips !! Appreciate it.

Annie
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#60
Thanks Charrito , I guess this must be the ‘tough one’?
I was just reading about that service in Laurie’s Invierno guide. Ps. In my rush back to cross the tracks yesterday .,I dropped my hard copy guide. !!! I had heaps of highlighted info. Luckily I still have it downloaded in my ‘ibooks’ but Prefer paper notes.
I’m also reading kinkys notes which are helpful. And refer to maps me for encouragement sometimes.
Great to get your timely tips !! Appreciate it.

Annie
You're in As Vinas, Annie?
Or tomorrow?
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#61

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#63
No I am in Quiroga today. As Vinas (I guess that’s in A Pobra ?) for tomorrow
Yes, that's in A Pobra de Brollon. After Barxa do Lor there is a killer uphill but it is very short one. After that one of the most beautiful sections of all my Caminos come. In nice weather it's Galicia in all its beauty with meadows etc... It's shortish but oh so nice. You'll see.
Please give my best regards to the owner (and his wife) of As Vinas. If you can please mention middle aged (44 then) Slovenian pilgrim with Castro cap and flag of International Brigades from Civil war on it that was there on 24th of July 2014. I'm so sad that they are closing the business. In long evening talk he told me his life story and I know how hard he and his wife has been working in France to be able to open it. I don't know the circumstances but I'd say it's a shame on their children not to continue it.

Buen Camino!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#64
Tomorrow, your walk into Quiroga will seem oh so short!
I hope you have a wonderful dinner tonight!
Hi Day 4
Montefurado to Quiroga.
Laurie , so glad I walked the first part to Montefurado yesterday afternoon without Mochilla.

I still found the walk had substantial climbs, with a lot of boggy bits , on the off road paths. Although I was garbed with rain gear as it looked like rain to start, I had very little rain after start. Due to overnight rain though., there is quite a lot of water running down some of the paths. One particular path, somewhere around Bendilló to Soldón I think there are a few trees down on the path. One was ok just needs clearing. The other one - was in a position where I had to hold onto the broken tree and walk on dangerous cliff side. (I met another peregrina/(below) who found that pass unsafe too.
A bit of rock hopping a stream but passable. Boots got a bit damp today.

The signs often seem to take you uphill a lot / I think more to make the road users (car drivers) feel safe. Adds a lot in some places.

Going through Bendilló, I was talking to a lovely local lady , ‘Lupe’ short for Guadalupe. She invited me to her casa for coffee and let me use the bathroom.. she had an amiga visiting and I’m getting heaps of opportunities to improve my Spanish. It must be getting better, as they understand me and I’m understanding more of what they say. Practise practise is what it takes.

After coming down from Bendilló and heading to
Soldón you come to a mojon and camino arrows/ signs on the road ., pointing uphill on the right.
I said to me: no way !! I’m not going up, Soldón is down there. On the left side of the road I took, there were older arrows and the camino was where I wanted it to be. Alison (the peregrina I met tonight )., said she took the up sign and spent 10 minutes going wrong.

Btw I didn’t find a decent meal yesterday in A Rúa. / Alison said same for her. ( It may have been that is was Sunday ?) So today began 10am & when I arrived today in Quiroga just before 3 I think. Very slow walking., decided to find menu Del dia before accommodation. I asked at one bar and was directed to ‘Chapakuña’ which is in a street behind Main Street. (Its mentioned in Laurie’s guide too) It was really tasty and went down well. I’ve noticed more variety available lately in menu Del dia . Cost E10.
Staff were lovely and friendly., so I asked for recommendation for Hostal. They immediately said
Hostal Quiper (also in Laurie’s guide). Guy at restaurant even drove me to Hostal instead of describing where it was.
Guide quotes single of E20 but price was only E17.
I showed my surprise to her and she said for peregrinas. It has wifi, own bathroom with a medium size bath (had a relax there ). Comfy beds with warm coverings. Very good value.
When I arrived to ring the bell , Lo and behold, first pilgrim I’ve met on Invierno turns up at same time.
So we both got sorted with individual rooms and decided to meet later. Alison is English.
It was great being able to discuss the walk with someone but she will be making quicker progress than me from here on as she will finish about 3 days before me. Strangely we both left Ponferrada the same day but hadn’t chanced meeting before.

That was my day. A Pobra de Brollo tomorrow.

Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#65
Also more info on accommodation in ARua.
My friend of tonight (Alison ) wanted to recommend ‘highly’, the hotel O Pillaban. Not sure if it is hotel but she said it has very good quality furnishings etc. price paid for single was E25.

Also on El Pacio do sil. Very well heated
Charrito mentioned that it is possible that Alba, the offsider of Julia the boss (jefe), may drive you back to Montefurado. Just in case people have expectations that this is free, it is quite a way and does cost time and fuel. His charge is e10. Which I thought reasonable as I could choose when to go and didn’t have to walk down to station for return to start.
 

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
#66
Annie, I really enjoy reading your reports since I 'll be there in a months time.

Glad the insects inthe casa rural in A Rua was not the chinches.
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#68
Also more info on accommodation in ARua.
My friend of tonight (Alison ) wanted to recommend ‘highly’, the hotel O Pillaban. Not sure if it is hotel but she said it has very good quality furnishings etc. price paid for single was E25.

Also on El Pacio do sil. Very well heated
Charrito mentioned that it is possible that Alba, the offsider of Julia the boss (jefe), may drive you back to Montefurado. Just in case people have expectations that this is free, it is quite a way and does cost time and fuel. His charge is e10. Which I thought reasonable as I could choose when to go and didn’t have to walk down to station for return to start.
They must have liked me more than you, Annie, as I was taken there free!!!!!!!
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#69
Hi Day 4
Montefurado to Quiroga.
Laurie , so glad I walked the first part to Montefurado yesterday afternoon without Mochilla.

I still found the walk had substantial climbs, with a lot of boggy bits , on the off road paths. Although I was garbed with rain gear as it looked like rain to start, I had very little rain after start. Due to overnight rain though., there is quite a lot of water running down some of the paths. One particular path, somewhere around Bendilló to Soldón I think there are a few trees down on the path. One was ok just needs clearing. The other one - was in a position where I had to hold onto the broken tree and walk on dangerous cliff side. (I met another peregrina/(below) who found that pass unsafe too.
A bit of rock hopping a stream but passable. Boots got a bit damp today.

The signs often seem to take you uphill a lot / I think more to make the road users (car drivers) feel safe. Adds a lot in some places.

Going through Bendilló, I was talking to a lovely local lady , ‘Lupe’ short for Guadalupe. She invited me to her casa for coffee and let me use the bathroom.. she had an amiga visiting and I’m getting heaps of opportunities to improve my Spanish. It must be getting better, as they understand me and I’m understanding more of what they say. Practise practise is what it takes.

After coming down from Bendilló and heading to
Soldón you come to a mojon and camino arrows/ signs on the road ., pointing uphill on the right.
I said to me: no way !! I’m not going up, Soldón is down there. On the left side of the road I took, there were older arrows and the camino was where I wanted it to be. Alison (the peregrina I met tonight )., said she took the up sign and spent 10 minutes going wrong.

Btw I didn’t find a decent meal yesterday in A Rúa. / Alison said same for her. ( It may have been that is was Sunday ?) So today began 10am & when I arrived today in Quiroga just before 3 I think. Very slow walking., decided to find menu Del dia before accommodation. I asked at one bar and was directed to ‘Chapakuña’ which is in a street behind Main Street. (Its mentioned in Laurie’s guide too) It was really tasty and went down well. I’ve noticed more variety available lately in menu Del dia . Cost E10.
Staff were lovely and friendly., so I asked for recommendation for Hostal. They immediately said
Hostal Quiper (also in Laurie’s guide). Guy at restaurant even drove me to Hostal instead of describing where it was.
Guide quotes single of E20 but price was only E17.
I showed my surprise to her and she said for peregrinas. It has wifi, own bathroom with a medium size bath (had a relax there ). Comfy beds with warm coverings. Very good value.
When I arrived to ring the bell , Lo and behold, first pilgrim I’ve met on Invierno turns up at same time.
So we both got sorted with individual rooms and decided to meet later. Alison is English.
It was great being able to discuss the walk with someone but she will be making quicker progress than me from here on as she will finish about 3 days before me. Strangely we both left Ponferrada the same day but hadn’t chanced meeting before.

That was my day. A Pobra de Brollo tomorrow.

Annie
I've stayed a couple of times in the Hostal Quiper, and it's pretty good (and cheap)! For a meal, I've never been that keen on Chapakuña, though; ask Laurie what we both say about Casa Aroza!!
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#70
Hi Day 4
Montefurado to Quiroga.
Laurie , so glad I walked the first part to Montefurado yesterday afternoon without Mochilla.

I still found the walk had substantial climbs, with a lot of boggy bits , on the off road paths. Although I was garbed with rain gear as it looked like rain to start, I had very little rain after start. Due to overnight rain though., there is quite a lot of water running down some of the paths. One particular path, somewhere around Bendilló to Soldón I think there are a few trees down on the path. One was ok just needs clearing. The other one - was in a position where I had to hold onto the broken tree and walk on dangerous cliff side. (I met another peregrina/(below) who found that pass unsafe too.
A bit of rock hopping a stream but passable. Boots got a bit damp today.

The signs often seem to take you uphill a lot / I think more to make the road users (car drivers) feel safe. Adds a lot in some places.

Going through Bendilló, I was talking to a lovely local lady , ‘Lupe’ short for Guadalupe. She invited me to her casa for coffee and let me use the bathroom.. she had an amiga visiting and I’m getting heaps of opportunities to improve my Spanish. It must be getting better, as they understand me and I’m understanding more of what they say. Practise practise is what it takes.

After coming down from Bendilló and heading to
Soldón you come to a mojon and camino arrows/ signs on the road ., pointing uphill on the right.
I said to me: no way !! I’m not going up, Soldón is down there. On the left side of the road I took, there were older arrows and the camino was where I wanted it to be. Alison (the peregrina I met tonight )., said she took the up sign and spent 10 minutes going wrong.

Btw I didn’t find a decent meal yesterday in A Rúa. / Alison said same for her. ( It may have been that is was Sunday ?) So today began 10am & when I arrived today in Quiroga just before 3 I think. Very slow walking., decided to find menu Del dia before accommodation. I asked at one bar and was directed to ‘Chapakuña’ which is in a street behind Main Street. (Its mentioned in Laurie’s guide too) It was really tasty and went down well. I’ve noticed more variety available lately in menu Del dia . Cost E10.
Staff were lovely and friendly., so I asked for recommendation for Hostal. They immediately said
Hostal Quiper (also in Laurie’s guide). Guy at restaurant even drove me to Hostal instead of describing where it was.
Guide quotes single of E20 but price was only E17.
I showed my surprise to her and she said for peregrinas. It has wifi, own bathroom with a medium size bath (had a relax there ). Comfy beds with warm coverings. Very good value.
When I arrived to ring the bell , Lo and behold, first pilgrim I’ve met on Invierno turns up at same time.
So we both got sorted with individual rooms and decided to meet later. Alison is English.
It was great being able to discuss the walk with someone but she will be making quicker progress than me from here on as she will finish about 3 days before me. Strangely we both left Ponferrada the same day but hadn’t chanced meeting before.

That was my day. A Pobra de Brollo tomorrow.

Annie
I've always gone down into Soldón, but I've never found KinkyOne's chiringuito bar open (seasonal).
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#71
I've always gone down into Soldón, but I've never found KinkyOne's chiringuito bar open (seasonal).
No. Nothing open when I went thru. But I think I know the place if the season was right !!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#72
I've stayed a couple of times in the Hostal Quiper, and it's pretty good (and cheap)! For a meal, I've never been that keen on Chapakuña, though; ask Laurie what we both say about Casa Aroza!!
It’s good to have choice. Chapakuna was good for me and not far from where I asked. Alison stayed on Main Street and hadn’t eaten. Later we only went to bar beside Hostal Quiper. She could get tapas but I was full up from a hearty menu del dia.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#73
They must have liked me more than you, Annie, as I was taken there free!!!!!!!
Maybe you were the start of the ‘market opportunity’. Charrito. It is a good drive though and his car would need fuel and care eventually.
I was happy with the plan.
Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#74
No. Nothing open when I went thru. But I think I know the place if the season was right !!
One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .

I've seen pictures of the place, but it's always closed!

https://www.facebook.com/ChiringuitoSoldon
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#75
Maybe you were the start of the ‘market opportunity’. Charrito. It is a good drive though and his car would need fuel and care eventually.
I was happy with the plan.
Annie
No, it was my English charm, Annie!
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#76
It’s good to have choice. Chapakuna was good for me and not far from where I asked. Alison stayed on Main Street and hadn’t eaten. Later we only went to bar beside Hostal Quiper. She could get tapas but I was full up from a hearty menu del dia.
I have knocked back a few local wines in that bar. Last year it was 50 cents, with free pincho included!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Donating Member
#77
One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .

I've seen pictures of the place, but it's always closed!

https://www.facebook.com/ChiringuitoSoldon
Reb and I found the chiringuito open when we walked through a few years ago. They were cooking what looked like a huge meal for an incoming group and had little time for us, but we got a good cold drink and enjoyed just sitting there by the river. Has anyone seen or stayed at the Soldon apartment? It seems like a good option from Rúa but is maybe too close to Quiroga.

On to Pobra de Brollón for you Annie!!!
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#78
Reb and I found the chiringuito open when we walked through a few years ago. They were cooking what looked like a huge meal for an incoming group and had little time for us, but we got a good cold drink and enjoyed just sitting there by the river. Has anyone seen or stayed at the Soldon apartment? It seems like a good option from Rúa but is maybe too close to Quiroga.

On to Pobra de Brollón for you Annie!!!
If I get back on my lovely Invierno this summer, I will think about the apartments in Soldón. But only if the chiringuito is open!

Annie: enjoy the hospitality in As Viñas; they really are lovely people. Pretty decent menú del día too. Take a walk back into town to see the pretty river setting. There are three or four bars down there as well.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#79
One of these summers I am going to get to Soldón and find the chiringuito open. KinkyOne told us all about the lovely barmaid there, so . . . . . .

I've seen pictures of the place, but it's always closed!

https://www.facebook.com/ChiringuitoSoldon
It looked a bit sadder yesterday.
I have knocked back a few local wines in that bar. Last year it was 50 cents, with free pincho included!
wow - that beats me. I had a couple in Bar Melin in ARua Sunday night and they only charged .70c and included tapas. Easy to tip in places like that.
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#80
It looked a bit sadder yesterday.

wow - that beats me. I had a couple in Bar Melin in ARua Sunday night and they only charged .70c and included tapas. Easy to tip in places like that.
You don't need to tip in Spanish bars!! Restaurants, yes.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#81
If I get back on my lovely Invierno this summer, I will think about the apartments in Soldón. But only if the chiringuito is open!

Annie: enjoy the hospitality in As Viñas; they really are lovely people. Pretty decent menú del día too. Take a walk back into town to see the pretty river setting. There are three or four bars down there as well.
There were are lot of ‘them thar hills ‘ (climbs ) en route today. It was after menu Del dia time , by the time I dragged this sodden, sad, tired, bag of bones into As Vinas., but they were super helpful. They cooked me some pollo and fritas and a pudding. ! Suficiente!
Bruno (the son) was going to reserve a hotel for me in Montforte de Lemos but I quickly let him know my plan was to go further tomorrow. He then booked for me at Casa Rural Torre Vilarino.
He was very proud of montforte de Lemos and there seems to be so much you can see if you have fresh legs and time.
He also let me have (for use/reading today only ) a book about the winter route by Aida Menendez Lorenzo
It has some good profile pics.

It was too wet when I arrived to walk about ‘pretty river setting ‘. Some almighty climbs ‘. Phew - I’m claiming my ‘mountain goat certificate ‘ when I reach Santiago. Also so wet and boggy on last 5k ... I didn’t think I’d ever reach this place !!
When I saw the profile map in Aida’s book.. I could understand.

Annie
 

Attachments

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#82
You don't need to tip in Spanish bars!! Restaurants, yes.
You’re a hard man Charrito... ???? Surely the bar staff appreciate it too.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#83
There were are lot of ‘them thar hills ‘ (climbs ) en route today. It was after menu Del dia time , by the time I dragged this sodden, sad, tired, bag of bones into As Vinas., but they were super helpful. They cooked me some pollo and fritas and a pudding. ! Suficiente!
Bruno (the son) was going to reserve a hotel for me in Montforte de Lemos but I quickly let him know my plan was to go further tomorrow. He then booked for me at Casa Rural Torre Vilarino.
He was very proud of montforte de Lemos and there seems to be so much you can see if you have fresh legs and time.
He also let me have (for use/reading today only ) a book about the winter route by Aida Menendez Lorenzo
It has some good profile pics.

It was too wet when I arrived to walk about ‘pretty river setting ‘. Some almighty climbs ‘. Phew - I’m claiming my ‘mountain goat certificate ‘ when I reach Santiago. Also so wet and boggy on last 5k ... I didn’t think I’d ever reach this place !!
When I saw the profile map in Aida’s book.. I could understand.

Annie
Interesting seeing the profile because I don't remember the first climb after Quiroga to be hard at all. But the one from Barxa, whew :D
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#84
Interesting seeing the profile because I don't remember the first climb after Quiroga to be hard at all. But the one from Barxa, whew :D
The walk out of Quiroga is flat for a couple of kilometres, regardless of whether you carry on down the main road or make a slight detour through San Clodio, but then there's a steady upward, winding climb past Nocedo on the LU-933. You then veer off into the woods and go up a bit more, then down past the chapel (Ermida de Nosa Señora Dos Remedios) until you get to Carballo de Lor. Then it's down to the bridge at Barxa and up towards Castroncelos.

After stopping for a beer (or two) at Pensión Pacita, the lady told me that I could walk up the main road (the LU-933 again) instead of heading back along the river bank to the bridge. I took her advice, but to be honest it was a mistake, as there was far more uphill walking than on the actual Camino.
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#85
You’re a hard man Charrito... ???? Surely the bar staff appreciate it too.
It's a common misconception that you need to tip in bars. Believe me, I've lived here for over 30 years and it's not the done thing! If there's a group of you and you have several rounds and pinchos/tapas, then it would be fine (and expected), but not if you just have a wine, beer or coffee.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#86
Yes, that's in A Pobra de Brollon. After Barxa do Lor there is a killer uphill but it is very short one. After that one of the most beautiful sections of all my Caminos come. In nice weather it's Galicia in all its beauty with meadows etc... It's shortish but oh so nice. You'll see.
Please give my best regards to the owner (and his wife) of As Vinas. If you can please mention middle aged (44 then) Slovenian pilgrim with Castro cap and flag of International Brigades from Civil war on it that was there on 24th of July 2014. I'm so sad that they are closing the business. In long evening talk he told me his life story and I know how hard he and his wife has been working in France to be able to open it. I don't know the circumstances but I'd say it's a shame on their children not to continue it.

Buen Camino!
Kinky- the owner at As Vinas !
He remembered you immediately and laughed. He sent you ‘saludas from the Portuguese ‘

He slips into French very readily. I have much, much less French then Spanish (and its meagre)., but had to tell him he was answering me in French !! We were talking about your age (roughlynow )..when trying to describe you....and he was saying ‘huit’ Instead of ‘ocho’. . ! Lol.

Lovely family. @peregrina2000 Re As Vinas possibly closing this year. Bruno was doing a good job of it all at the moment.

Bruno just told me the current situation. Something to do with paperwork ., but at the moment, it is a ‘day to day’ thing. They could close tomorrow or maybe not until May. He said he would handle bookings when you call on a daily basis., but they are hoping to stay open for this spring.

No bar stops today. I stopped & took off pack for a few minutes at the Capela de Los Remedios. I even ate one of those juicy apples I bought from the fruit truck in Las Médulas.. best apple I’ve ever had. !!! A good meal on its own, as it was a huge ‘Fuji ‘ apple.

Coming thru Barxa de Lor, it is a picturesque setting but definitely tough up up up to climb out.
I initially missed the camino turn off veering left into the steep up and then was pulled up by two yellow crosses!!
Almost needed a ‘pick’ to climb that one.
The scenery is so pretty and once the place dries just a little ., so you can stop and picnic etc ., it will be even more enjoyable.

Just before you reach the bridge at Barxa de Lor, there are two houses between which the camino path winds. Not very wide path at this corner. At this point there are two large dogs (one on either side )., but you can see that you still have room to walk thru without them getting to you.(ie shortish chains , just wait until they stand and you get see how far they can move. I wasn’t disturbed by them at all ., but knowing how some people react to dogs and have fears., they could freak out. Just wanted to forewarn them and to let them know that barking is only dogs talking. Just hasten by, you will be fine.

The hills and the climbs., grow on you after a few days though. I’m getting stronger possibly.
Also if you procrastinate and don’t keep moving ., the distance you want to cover ., won’t happen.

Btw Laurie , not sure if the new Invierno signs in this region are new to you but they have many new wooden signs pegged into the ground with a wooden carved sign (writing in green) ‘Camino de Inverño’. (Spelt that way) ! But they are still painting lovely yellow arrows and still have mojónes and tiles too.
Very very well signed.

It was raining when I left Quiroga and they were setting up what looked like a Tuesday market !
It stopped and started continually, so one minute ., it felt like a sauna (with rain gear and warm stuff on) and then you’d be cold. However 5 ks out from A Pobra de Brollón the rain became heavy and I also needed my poncho. No wind tho so easier to don..
This region looked to have had much more rain and it was ‘dodgems’ all the way. Muddy boots.
Of course after I arrived I was reading the guide where it mentions the owner of As Vinas runs a taxi service and can save people hill climb coming into town and lots of mud as today was.
But I’m pleased though, to have walked in.

Pics below. You may be able to see the startled deer racing my way just before I came out and crossed the highway (near the derelict restaurant).
Then next pic is of the green Camino de Inverño signs

Last one shows both dogs on the corner. You walk between them.

Annie
 

Attachments

Last edited:
#87
No tips but usually round up the amount. So if a Coffee is say 80 then leave a Euro and walk away. Do not leave any money on show, when you leave, in larger towns in case there is a beggars who will swipe it.
It is nice to say thanks for hard work.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#88
Kinky- the owner at As Vinas !
He remembered you immediately and laughed. He sent you ‘saludas from the Portuguese ‘

He slips into French very readily. I have much, much less French then Spanish (and its meagre)., but had to tell him he was answering me in French !! We were talking about your age (roughlynow )..when trying to describe you....and he was saying ‘huit’ Instead of ‘ocho’. . ! Lol.

Lovely family. @peregrina2000 Re As Vinas possibly closing this year. Bruno was doing a good job of it all at the moment.

Bruno just told me the current situation. Something to do with paperwork ., but at the moment, it is a ‘day to day’ thing. They could close tomorrow or maybe not until May. He said he would handle bookings when you call on a daily basis., but they are hoping to stay open for this spring.

No bar stops today. I stopped & took off pack for a few minutes at the Capela de Los Remedios. I even ate one of those juicy apples I bought from the fruit truck in Las Médulas.. best apple I’ve ever had. !!! A good meal on its own, as it was a huge ‘Fuji ‘ apple.

Coming thru Barxa de Lor, it is a picturesque setting but definitely tough up up up to climb out.
I initially missed the camino turn off veering left into the steep up and then was pulled up by two yellow crosses!!
Almost needed a ‘pick’ to climb that one.
The scenery is so pretty and once the place dries just a little ., so you can stop and picnic etc ., it will be even more enjoyable.

Just before you reach the bridge at Barxa de Lor, there are two houses between which the camino path winds. Not very wide path at this corner. At this point there are two large dogs (one on either side )., but you can see that you still have room to walk thru without them getting to you.(ie shortish chains , just wait until they stand and you get see how far they can move. I wasn’t disturbed by them at all ., but knowing how some people react to dogs and have fears., they could freak out. Just wanted to forewarn them and to let them know that barking is only dogs talking. Just hasten by, you will be fine.

The hills and the climbs., grow on you after a few days though. I’m getting stronger possibly.
Also if you procrastinate and don’t keep moving ., the distance you want to cover ., won’t happen.

Btw Laurie , not sure if the new Invierno signs in this region are new to you but they have many new wooden signs pegged into the ground with a wooden carved sign (writing in green) ‘Camino de Inverño’. (Spelt that way) ! But they are still painting lovely yellow arrows and still have mojónes and tiles too.
Very very well signed.

It was raining when I left Quiroga and they were setting up what looked like a Tuesday market !
It stopped and started continually, so one minute ., it felt like a sauna (with rain gear and warm stuff on) and then you’d be cold. However 5 ks out from A Pobra de Brollón the rain became heavy and I also needed my poncho. No wind tho so easier to don..
This region looked to have had much more rain and it was ‘dodgems’ all the way. Muddy boots.
Of course after I arrived I was reading the guide where it mentions the owner of As Vinas runs a taxi service and can save people hill climb coming into town and lots of mud as today was.
But I’m pleased though, to have walked in.

Annie
Hahaha, love the photo :D

And thanks for passing my saludos to As Vinas owner!
Sadly it is indeed cuarenta y ocho ;)
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#89
That's a longish stage tomorrow, Annie, if you're going all the way to Torre Vilariño. Warning: there's a really horrible muddy stretch before you get to Mnforte de Lemos!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#90
That's a longish stage tomorrow, Annie, if you're going all the way to Torre Vilariño. Warning: there's a really horrible muddy stretch before you get to Mnforte de Lemos!
There’s mud in quite a few place now. It’s been raining around here. I walked a stretch of mud before A Pobra.
I was a bit flustered when Bruno called to book there. I was figuring 26 or 27 ? Did I get it wrong.

Tks. Annie
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#91
Well I’ve pondered the k’s planned for tomorrow , the mud ahead, the rain, and what Bruno was telling me about what to see in Montforte de Lemos; and have decided to be a coward and arrange a taxi from As Vinas to Montforte de Lemos which in Laurie’s guide is approx 12.5ks. Then I miss the mud, give myself a wee while to look at Montforte instead of ‘blowing through town ‘ and then walk to Vilarino to Casa Rural El Torre with less push.

Following day I am thinking of Chantada so will not be a long one either.
Annie
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#92
There’s mud in quite a few place now. It’s been raining around here. I walked a stretch of mud before A Pobra.
I was a bit flustered when Bruno called to book there. I was figuring 26 or 27 ? Did I get it wrong.

Tks. Annie
27
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#93
Well I’ve pondered the k’s planned for tomorrow , the mud ahead, the rain, and what Bruno was telling me about what to see in Montforte de Lemos; and have decided to be a coward and arrange a taxi from As Vinas to Montforte de Lemos which in Laurie’s guide is approx 12.5ks. Then I miss the mud, give myself a wee while to look at Montforte instead of ‘blowing through town ‘ and then walk to Vilarino to Casa Rural El Torre with less push.

Following day I am thinking of Chantada so will not be a long one either.
Annie
Lovely stage for you tomorrow. It's steep down to Belesar and then steep once you've crossed the river, but the views are amazing.

On your way up the other side, I recommend stopping in the Mesón e Adega do Veiga. If the weather's not too bad, you can sit outside and contemplate the river below you, and all the vineyards on both sides.

Link to their web-page (they open at 11.00):

http://mesoneadegadoveiga.wixsite.com/mesoneadegadoveiga
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#94
Lovely stage for you tomorrow. It's steep down to Belesar and then steep once you've crossed the river, but the views are amazing.

On your way up the other side, I recommend stopping in the Mesón e Adega do Veiga. If the weather's not too bad, you can sit outside and contemplate the river below you, and all the vineyards on both sides.

Link to their web-page (they open at 11.00):

http://mesoneadegadoveiga.wixsite.com/mesoneadegadoveiga
Hi Charrito
I won’t hit ‘like’ to your post -(ha ha) I’m guessing you’re not about these parts at present.
I’m sitting ‘resting’ in a bus stop ( no, not waiting for a bus ).(out of the rain and mud for 10 minutes) .. the way from Montforte today —- oh dear..... first few kilometres- a joy .. flat ...
then the rain started when the flat ceased.
Following the camino has been laborious today. I’m still about 4 k from Casa at Vilariño.. after slogging through mud for an hour ., that you couldn’t avoid, because I followed camino signs! I came to the road LP-4112 and wasn’t going to cross over to more mud (pic below ) as it may or may not continue. So following the longer way via LP 4112 up to A Barxa., then find way to casa El Torre.
Unbelievable how in a short time it will be summer and brown and dry and possibly the advice of meandering fields would fit. Today no. Can’t complain too much as it is cool to walk.

Annie
 

Attachments

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#95
Hi Charrito
I won’t hit ‘like’ to your post -(ha ha) I’m guessing you’re not about these parts at present.
I’m sitting ‘resting’ in a bus stop ( no, not waiting for a bus ).(out of the rain and mud for 10 minutes) .. the way from Montforte today —- oh dear..... first few kilometres- a joy .. flat ...
then the rain started when the flat ceased.
Following the camino has been laborious today. I’m still about 4 k from Casa at Vilariño.. after slogging through mud for an hour ., that you couldn’t avoid, because I followed camino signs! I came to the road LP-4112 and wasn’t going to cross over to more mud (pic below ) as it may or may not continue. So following the longer way via LP 4112 up to A Barxa., then find way to casa El Torre.
Unbelievable how in a short time it will be summer and brown and dry and possibly the advice of meandering fields would fit. Today no. Can’t complain too much as it is cool to walk.

Annie
Lucky you!

Seriously, I have walked the Invierno three times and it has always been dry as a bone and baking hot. What I would have given for a few drops of rain!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
#96
Lucky you!

Seriously, I have walked the Invierno three times and it has always been dry as a bone and baking hot. What I would have given for a few drops of rain!
I thought you walked earlier in the year in winter proper? It’s very cold right now and they had snow in A Barxa yesterday. Some unmelted walking through today. I am now at Casa Rural El Torre Vilarino... now this is a great accommodation approx 400m off camino.
Susanna has first let me rest for an hour and then I’ve had a delicious meal !! It’s raining outside but I want to check out the garden before it’s dark.
Susanna tells me that I was right to take the Carretera LP 4112 for last 4K and that all that mud I had to negotiate around A Regruendo and before is like that ‘all year’ but worse now (probably due to the overnight snow and run off ). She says it’s ‘political ‘ ??? Not sure what she means by that tho.
 

Attachments

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#97
Sometimes local politicans (and neighbours) can be real pains. On the Camino Portugués from Túy there's a oovely alternative along the river bank, avoiding the sprawling, boring industrial estate. But some locals keep taking down wayposts and deleting the arrows. Why? So that walkers will stop in the bars on the main road along the industrial estate. It's a real warzone up there at times!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#98
I thought you walked earlier in the year in winter proper? It’s very cold right now and they had snow in A Barxa yesterday. Some unmelted walking through today. I am now at Casa Rural El Torre Vilarino... now this is a great accommodation approx 400m off camino.
Susanna has first let me rest for an hour and then I’ve had a delicious meal !! It’s raining outside but I want to check out the garden before it’s dark.
Susanna tells me that I was right to take the Carretera LP 4112 for last 4K and that all that mud I had to negotiate around A Regruendo and before is like that ‘all year’ but worse now (probably due to the overnight snow and run off ). She says it’s ‘political ‘ ??? Not sure what she means by that tho.
Part from Monforte to Torre Vilarino (to the asphalt road you have to cross actually) is notorious for being flooded, muddy, overgrown etc. Even after Reguengo I had no remorse sticking to 4112.
 

Charrito

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#99
Part from Monforte to Torre Vilarino (to the asphalt road you have to cross actually) is notorious for being flooded, muddy, overgrown etc. Even after Reguengo I had no remorse sticking to 4112.
My 'alternative' from Monforte to Escairón (in Laurie's guide) came after I read your posts, KinkyOne, about the overgrown sections.
 

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Reb and I found the chiringuito open when we walked through a few years ago. They were cooking what looked like a huge meal for an incoming group and had little time for us, but we got a good cold drink and enjoyed just sitting there by the river. Has anyone seen or stayed at the Soldon apartment? It seems like a good option from Rúa but is maybe too close to Quiroga.

On to Pobra de Brollón for you Annie!!!
I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.
 

OLDER threads on this topic



Advertisement

Most read today

Most downloaded Resources

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Forum Store

Camino Forum Store

Casa Ivar Newsletter

Forum Donation

Forum Donation
For those with no forum account, it is possible to donate here as well. Thank you for your support! Ivar

When is the best time to walk?

  • January

    Votes: 4 1.0%
  • February

    Votes: 3 0.8%
  • March

    Votes: 18 4.6%
  • April

    Votes: 67 17.0%
  • May

    Votes: 104 26.3%
  • June

    Votes: 31 7.8%
  • July

    Votes: 10 2.5%
  • August

    Votes: 5 1.3%
  • September

    Votes: 101 25.6%
  • October

    Votes: 44 11.1%
  • November

    Votes: 5 1.3%
  • December

    Votes: 3 0.8%