LIVE from the Camino Starting from A Rua, June 2023

[Glenshiro]

Starting where I left off last year, defeated by a combination of 40° temperature and covid-19.

I stayed last night at O Pillaban. I was the only guest but Noelina, who speaks some English and Theresa, who doesn't, looked after me very well. I had an excellent meal and, being the only guest, borrowed the pillar fan from the guests' lounge to cool my room down. My bag was collected this morning by the nice gentleman from Casa Mar and delivered to my hotel in Quiroga.

Today was a beautiful walking day with tremendous views down the Valley of the river Sil. A lot of it was on either empty country roads or shaded forest tracks.

Didn't see a soul all day apart from the very helpful lady in the church in Montefurado who gave me a guided tour in Spanglish - and Martina.

As you enter the village of Bendillo there are handwritten signs advertising Casa Martina. This turns out to be Martina ' s late mother's front room which she has turned into a pop-up Cafe. She is a nurse by training but told me that she intends to stay there, running the cafe, until September. She did say that she has seen very few pilgrims recently. I think it's the only chance of any food or drink on this section of the Camino. Planning on trying the Aroza restaurant in Quiroga. ( Also recommended by Martina)

 

[LTfit]

Look forward to following you. I'm on the Olvidado now but will join the Invierno in A Rúa in about 2 weeks as I've walked Ponferrada to A Rúa already. I am planning on staying in the municipal in Quiroga.

 

[Glenshiro]

Does anyone know what the figures on this sign relate to? Every hamlet seems to have one and I haven't noticed them before. It's not a height above sea level. It's not the local population. Any ideas?

 

[Glenshiro]

Look forward to following you. I'm on the Olvidado now but will join the Invierno in A Rúa in about 2 weeks as I've walked Ponferrada to A Rúa already. I am planning on staying in the municipal in Quiroga.

Prepare to be hot! It's 36 degrees in Quiroga now. Supposed to be getting a bit cooler - high 20s, low 30s.

 

[LTfit]

Prepare to be hot! It's 36 degrees in Quiroga now. Supposed to be getting a bit cooler - high 20s, low 30s.

It's 34 in Cervera de Pisuerga now.

 

[Glenshiro]

Quiroga to Barxa de Lor

I didn't manage to eat at the restaurant Aroza last night as the kitchen was closed. The landlady did try to explain the reason but a combination of a strong Galician accent and a mouthful of peanuts defeated her. I ate at A Botica on Rua Real, on the terrace, and it was very pleasant.
Leaving Quiroga, the Camino takes you off the main road and into the suburb of San Clodio. Even at 8:00 a.m. on a Saturday morning there were two bars open and the first of these, Cabina, supplied me with a large bocadillo con queso for a very reasonable €2.50 and would probably have added a large brandy if I asked. That seemed to be the breakfast of choice for most of the customers.
Back on the road and a very easy stretch of asphalt walking until leaving it on a logging track to begin a steeper uphill climb. The most recent entry in the visitor's book at Nuestra Señora de los remedios, at the highest point, was 4 days ago. Again, I was completely alone in the magnificent scenery, only slightly marred by the remains of a forest fire in the last couple of years, although it was great to see that nature is already reclaiming what was destroyed. The temperature climbed steadily through the 20s and is now hovering just around 30.
I am staying at Pension Pacita, as recommended by another contributor, and I'm glad that she did. It's very comfortable (and cool!) and although neither José Luis nor his elderly father, Pacita's widower, speak any English we manage very well with Google Translate. As I write this my laundry is being done for me. I suspect I will be the only diner tonight.

 

[Glenshiro]

Barxa de Lor to Monforte de Lemos

Another great day's walking in beautiful countryside. This Camino just gets better and better. The hilltops were shrouded in mist as I left this morning but the sun soon burnt them off although it didn't get too hot until after I had reached Monforte. Didn't stop long in Pobra de Brollon. At the outskirts of Monforte you are presented with alternative routes into town. I chose the shorter one which, according to the sign, had been chosen for its landscape values presumably by someone with a sense of humour. As Wise Pilgrim notes, this route, the older one, definitely goes through the scruffy part of town. In fact even its greatest fan (and I think he left some years ago) wouldn't call Monforte a pretty town, although perhaps that's just the heat making me a little jaded. I'm staying at the Hostal MON ComeySuena which is centrally located and very good value. As before I was the only walker on the trail. In fact the last time I had a conversation with anyone was in Madrid 4 days ago. I surely can't be the only peregrino on the Invierno!
I am apprehensive about the future of Pension Pacita, now that Pacita herself is no longer with us. José senior must be coming up to retirement age if he hasn't already passed it and his son Jose Luis, who seems to do most of the cooking, lives in Monforte with his wife and young daughter where presumably he has a full-time job. The restaurant is now closed and meals are only provided for guests but given the pension's location, on a side road long since bypassed by the N 120, and almost directly under an elevated highway, business can hardly be described as brisk and probably depends on peregrinos as much as anything. I was the only guest last night. It would be a shame if it closed completely as it is a very useful stop between Quiroga and Monforte, especially for those of us who no longer do 30 - 40 km days, but I seriously wonder if it is actually a commercial proposition.
I can't find out how to post photographs directly from my smartphone without taking up a huge amount of space. Any assistance gratefully received.

 

[LTfit]

I can't find out how to post photographs directly from my smartphone without taking up a huge amount of space. Any assistance gratefully received.

Click attach files then camera (at least on mine) then select the foto you want to upload. Once that's done click on thumbnail rather than full. A tiny picture will appear on your post and if someone wants to look closer they can do so by pressing on the photo. Hope this makes sense!

 

[Glenshiro]

Thanks for that. I'll give it a try.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am apprehensive about the future of Pension Pacita, now that Pacita herself is no longer with us. José senior must be coming up to retirement age if he hasn't already passed it and his son Jose Luis, who seems to do most of the cooking, lives in Monforte with his wife and young daughter where presumably he has a full-time job.

I think you are probably right, and I think the final straw may be when the albergue in Pobra de Brollón finallyl opens. Anyone have any news on that?

 

[Glenshiro]

Monforte de Lemos to Vilariño
An easy day's walking made even easier by high cloud which kept the temperature to a very comfortable 19°. Leaving Monforte de Lemos, there are a few miles of asphalt walking on a fairly straight road. Then over the N120 to an even quieter country road. The old muddy route through the forest has been dispensed with although at one point the Camino doubles back on itself towards a small hamlet/farm at Os Campos, a turning easily missed, then rejoins the road at Reguiero. The footpath, muddy in a few places because of the presence of springs, eventually leads back to the road at the improbably named Camino Grande. This hamlet is basically just a couple of farms and as I arrived a bull was being persuaded to leave his transport and, presumably, come and meet some ladies. He didn't seem very keen on the idea and there was much noisy banging on the insides of the cattle float which had brought him. I reckoned they could do without my help and carried on.
And so to the Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, which is a little gem. Obviously very popular in the neighbourhood, given the number of people in the restaurant on a Monday lunch time, and presided over by the voluble (there is a general election next month and I think feelings are running high) and very helpful Susana, who showed me to my comfortable first floor room. This is basically a very old stone built farmyard converted some years ago into accommodation and has a swimming pool. It's very pretty, with lots of hanging flower baskets and people are having lunch both inside and out.
I had dinner last night at the Polar restaurant in Rua Cardenal Rodrigo de Castro, the pedestrianised street in the centre of Monforte and it was excellent. Probably also the only restaurant serving a full meal on Sunday evenings.
Thanks to @LTfit for advice on uploading photos. Any mistakes are entirely mine. I just wanted to show you the only peregrinos I have seen so far together with evidence that Banksy may have passed this way.

 

[Glenshiro]

Sorry, wrong thumbnail! This is the correct one:

 

[LTfit]

Thanks to @LTfit for advice on uploading photos. Any mistakes are entirely mine. I just wanted to show you the only peregrinos I have seen so far together with evidence that Banksy may have passed this way.

Well I'm hoping to see more pilgrims on the Invierno than on the Olvidado. I'm on day 10 and have seen zero which is what I expected. I did meet two at my Hostal today but they started with the Lebaniego and are heading to Mansilla on the Valdiniense.

 

[Glenshiro]

Vilariño to Vilaseco
There was no-one stirring as I left the Torre Vilariño this morning. I had a good meal last night and a very restful sleep in a comfortable bed. The only other guests were a young American couple who were touring the area looking for somewhere to buy. There's certainly plenty of choice. At a rough guess about half the houses in the countryside are uninhabited, not to say abandoned. It is quite common to walk through a hamlet and find many of the houses in a state of collapse. There are any number of large detached properties with substantial grounds which clearly haven't been touched in months if not years. It's a very sad sight.

Walking was comfortable this morning with high cloud blotting out the sun until almost midday. The walk to Diomondi is pleasant if undemanding, along quiet country roads which grow quieter as one approaches the river Miño.

At Vendanova a thoughtful farmer has provided a rest area with a sheltered table and bench, a water tap and a sello. You are also requested to click a counter which reached 949 when I used it, although over what period I don't know. This year?

The descent down to Belesar is almost entirely on the old Roman Road and I was very glad of my trekking pole which saved me from going over on a couple of occasions.

The trek up the other side was, as expected, tiring. There is a choice, in places, of using the old track, but this is very steep and uneven, and I eventually gave up and used the road which, although longer, climbs on a steady but fairly gentle gradient.

I arrived in Chantada, the sort of small provincial town where the restaurants close for lunch, even those recommended by WP, and I had to make do with a sandwich.

Pressing on, I arrived at the hotel Vilaseco to find a family checking in ( mum, dad and an eight year old boy) of peregrinos who are making their way from Monforte in gentle stages. I'm not sure how far they're going. I had a salad and a glass of wine and a good shower which is all the pilgrim asks!

 

[Glenshiro]

Vilaseco to Rodeiro

The Vilaseco is a very good class hotel. You wouldn't mind spending your honeymoon there. It was €57 for the room, but the owner said it's cheaper if you contact him direct.
Monte Faro was still covered in mist as I approached it, and remained so for most of the morning. I decided to take the alternative route, turning off at Penasillas ( it's sign posted for Chantada) and taking a cross country route via back roads and farm tracks to where you rejoin the Camino about a mile past San Miguel.

The route is actually quite well way marked by yellow arrows but they are missing at a few crucial junctions and I found Mapy.cz invaluable for working out where I was. There's quite a long climb after San Miguel up to the Camino which you join just before it crosses the main Monforte-Lalin road. After descending from the ridge and the wind turbines it's a very pleasant walk through farms and small villages to Rodeiro.

I stopped for a drink and a snack at the bar O Recanto in A Feira, a small farming village, and was made to feel very welcome. They have a sello, very useful at this point.

I'm staying at the Hostal and Albergue Carpinteiras, €27 for a private room, B&B with shower. Mine was highly commended in last year's all Spain smallest shower room contest, but the water is hot and the sheets are clean so who cares?

Met a party of four peregrinos from the US on the road this morning and we are all staying at the same place so with luck I will have some English conversation this evening.

 

[Glenshiro]

Rodeiro to Lalin
This part of the Camino is almost entirely on farm tracks after the first 2 km along the road to Lalin. It goes through a few very small hamlets, basically just farms, so it is important to take enough water and perhaps something for lunch. It's very much dairy cattle country and, as the Camino goes right through the middle of a number of dairy farms it is important to watch where you put your feet!

Just after the farm of A Penela the Camino meets a road where you are directed to turn right along the road then left to loop around and rejoin the Camino near the hamlet of A Eirexe. You can save half a mile of walking simply by turning left here and walking 0.8 miles along this very quiet road to meet the Camino. The junction is right underneath a large granite quarry which uses a lot of very loud explosives without any warning. Be prepared for frequent irregular loud bangs.

The countryside now is one of gently rolling hills, fields and woods and this continues all the way to Lalin, one of the larger towns on the Invierno with a population of over 20,000.

You enter via the Praza de Igreza, where you will find the Igrexa de Santa María de las Dolores de Lalin, where a very helpful lady, who was cleaning the floor, volunteered to provide me with a sello.

Lalin has a selection of hotels and now a privately run albergue available through booking.com. It also has a very cheap and useful laundry at Lavaolas, at Rúa Rosalía de Castro. Fully automated, takes cards and cash, and you don't need to bring your own detergent.

 

[Glenshiro]

Lalin to Bandeira
Lalin is a nice town and the Palacio a comfortable hotel. I had a meal last night at the peregrino's favorite, the Casa do Gato, nominally a pizzerria but it does other dishes as well and I had a very good roast chicken. Breakfast is in a bar across the road from the hotel and as the heat wave has dissipated I could afford to leave a little later, in the knowledge that I would be able to walk into the afternoon.

The Camino leaves the town along a pleasant riverside walk and then strikes northward taking you on a well signposted route around a complicated road interchange. In fact the whole Camino is well signposted. A rural and fairly level cross country route with great views takes you, via A Laxe, where the Invierno merges with the Sanabres and the Plata, eventually to the small town of Silleda, which is very much geared up for pilgrims.

On the way you cross over a bridge built in the early 10th century, photo below. There is also a surprising opportunity, not long before the bridge, to obtain a sello at a cheese processing plant which has a shop immediately inside the entrance

From Silleda it was less than 2 hours to the small town of Bandeira, where I checked in to the Hotel Victorino which turned out to be surprisingly spacious and modern for a one-star Hotel. Still no sign of any other pilgrims!

 

[Glenshiro]

Bandeira to Lestedo
For some reason, I managed not to post yesterday's contribution.

I finally met a peregrino last night with whom I had something in common. An Irish chap, he has been walking since 2008 (not constantly!) and had come up the Via de Plata, although I'm not sure where he started. He was staying in the municipal Albergue, with a 10:00 p.m. curfew, so we didn't have long to chat. We might meet in Santiago.

The hotel Victorino was an excellent choice for a night. Spacious, clean and comfortable, and presided over by a landlady who speaks good English, a legacy of her time as an au pair in Canada.

Although Santiago is now almost within shouting distance, the Camino still has a couple of tricks up its sleeve, notably the sharp descent and following ascent to and from Ponte Ulla, which still has the old communal laundry by the side of the road. I remember seeing one of these being used in Galicia as recently as 1989.

I passed one other pelegrino today, a German who had walked all the way from Valencia.

I'm staying tonight at the Casa de Casals, near Lestedo, which is effectively a luxury country hotel. It's 67 Euros a night but I figure I'm worth it. The room is beautiful and the bed is the biggest I've ever seen!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm staying tonight at the Casa de Casals, near Lestedo,

Have you seen the threads discussing how close you are to the top of Pico Sacro? Looks like just a few kms. Given all the legends surrounding it, I’ve always thought it would be a great way to add a few kms to a final short day. You may have reasons to get in there early, of course, but just in case, check out the posts starting around here.

 

[Glenshiro]

Lestedo to Santiago de Compostela
It ends of course with a steep climb. How could it not? The Camino is in no hurry to get you to Santiago and meanders through small villages and the suburbs keeping you well away from main roads and other hazards. Finally, you cross the river Sar, climb the hill to pass under the Mazarelos Arch and find yourself in front of the very imposing geography and history building of the university. This is the point at which you realise that you are surrounded by tourists.

Through the side streets to the Praza das Praterias and then to the finishing post, the Praza de Obradoiro. I first saw the Cathedral front on a rainy September day in 1989, and I've been back since, but it never fails to impress. The square is very crowded as one would expect on a summer Sunday, so I'll leave it until later or possibly tomorrow before I visit the cathedral.

Both Prazas had a substantial police presence, something I've not seen before. There were several police vans and a number of uniformed officers, some of whom were carrying carbines. I can't for the life of me think why! They couldn't shoot in any direction except upwards without killing half a dozen tourists.

I had an exceptionally comfortable night last night at the Casa de Casals. Patricia Calvelo Casal, who runs it, told me that it is part of a large family farm which was initially purchased by her great great great grandfather. She wasn't sure exactly when, but she did know that he took part in the Cuban War, as it is known in Spain. She also told me that my room had been her bedroom as a child. Her parents, both in their 70s, still run the farm. As others have said, this is a great place to treat yourself before arriving in Santiago. It's wonderfully comfortable, very quiet and peaceful, and about half the price of accommodation in the city. I've checked in at my hotel, now for a shower and off to claim my compostela.

 

[Glenshiro]

Have you seen the threads discussing how close you are to the top of Pico Sacro? Looks like just a few kms. Given all the legends surrounding it, I’ve always thought it would be a great way to add a few kms to a final short day. You may have reasons to get in there early, of course, but just in case, check out the posts starting around here.

I didn't see this until I had arrived in Santiago. I could see the Pico Sacro yesterday. Indeed, It is well sign posted from the Camino. I did consider climbing it and, although the spirit was willing, the flesh was very definitely of the opinion that it had done quite enough climbing recently, thank you very much, and that this one would have to wait for another time.

 

[AnneMarie1]

I

I didn't see this until I had arrived in Santiago. I could see the Pico Sacro yesterday. Indeed, It is well sign posted from the Camino. I did consider climbing it and, although the spirit was willing, the flesh was very definitely of the opinion that it had done quite enough climbing recently, thank you very much, and that this one would have to wait for another time.

I finished a few days ago and made that same decision. Was just feeling beat from all those other big hills, and plus it was uncomfortably hot the day I walked through there.

 

[LTfit]

Felicidades! Thanks for letting us follow you. I'll be in Ponfe on Tuesday and will head to A Rúa on Wednesday (I've already walked Ponferrada to A Rúa).

On more full day on the Olvidado.

 

[C clearly]

Does anyone know what the figures on this sign relate to? Every hamlet seems to have one and I haven't noticed them before. It's not a height above sea level. It's not the local population. Any ideas?

View attachment 150621

I wondered that, too. I concluded that they must be elevation but I didn't actually confirm it.

 

[Robo]

Does anyone know what the figures on this sign relate to? Every hamlet seems to have one and I haven't noticed them before. It's not a height above sea level. It's not the local population. Any ideas?

View attachment 150621

I wondered myself.
I think they are distances to local tourist / historical attractions.

Like following a tourist 'trail'.........

Not related in any way to the Camino that I could see.

..

 

[Albertagirl]

I have been reminding myself of how fond I was of the Invierno, in preparation for walking it a second time this fall. No bookings made yet, but I plan on following the same route that I walked my first time on the Invierno: Madrid to Sahagun, to Ponferrada, then the Invierno to Santiago. Since I just left Spain and returned to Canada on June 13, I don't think that I can leave for Madrid again until at least the middle of September. Hopefully the Invierno will be a little cooler by then. I am urged onward by the memory of my previous stay in Pension Pacita, which I liked so much that I settled in for a couple of days. I hope that it will still be open when I pass through this autumn. I am going to give myself a few more days than the last time, so that I can relax and enjoy my pilgrimage. I am reading whatever I can find on the forum from recent walkers on the Madrid and the Invierno. Please keep it coming.