BeatriceKarjalainen
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Finished: See post signature.
Doing: C. Levante
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Hola BeatriceHi
I'm in a hotel bed (need to get up I know) in Pinos Puente and have to decide if I want to do a really short stage to Moclin or a longer double stretch. I have a huge problem with this call ahead for accommodations. I understand that it is important so I do have a place to stay but it takes away all My freedom I prefer on the camino. For instance today if I call a place in Moclin and then arrive there way to early, good legs and not to hot then I want to go further. Or if I decide to do the reservations 2 stages away and get to Moclin in a mess.... How welcoming are they of late cancellations? If I use bookings.com I'll be charged.
Apart from that CM is really nice and Almeria-Granada Association has been really helpful. Last night when I arrived late to the albergue with the code for the key I was stopped by a big green gate I saw a pad lock on the handle on the inside and didn't even start to try to open (tired and pissed of after a really shitty second half of a day that started so perfect). Sent a WhatsApp to Veronica and she said it should be open so if anyone else comes there and see the pad lock do an attempt before heading down the hill again to the hotel.
Time to go up and scrub through my backpack for some breakfast. Then try to find out the way through the olive groves instead of a river crossing, marked? Anyone with a GPS-track for that part (if responding within 30 minutes or so)
Thanks, didn't see you post into I reached OlivaresHola Beatrice
All I can help with here is a link to wikiloc's search result for Camino Monzarabe.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/find.do?t=&d=&lfr=<o=&src=&act=&uom=mi&q=camino+Mozárabe
There are several tracked etapes and maybe they will come in handy later on your Camino
If the format is not the one that you use then you can convert them into other formats here:
www.gpx2kml.com (used with maps.me)
Here is a page explainen the use of overlay maps on smart phones:
https://www.santiago.nl/smartphone-on-the-camino
Buen Camino
Lettinggo
Thanks. I'm in Olivares right now having some "breakfast" tea and crispsPinos Puente to Moclín is a short day but it's got a steep hill to climb at the end. The castle there ("the shield of Granada") is well worth an afternoon visit, not least for the spectacular views back over the Sierra Nevada.
The (excellent) hotel/albergue in Moclín is unlikely to be full except at the weekend (or possibly in August). If you do have the energy to carry on to Alcalá la Real (with another amazing castle) there are several accommodation options and not having a booking shouldn't be a problem. When I walked that way, in October, I never booked ahead and always found a bed.
Hi
I'm in a hotel bed (need to get up I know) in Pinos Puente and have to decide if I want to do a really short stage to Moclin or a longer double stretch. I have a huge problem with this call ahead for accommodations. I understand that it is important so I do have a place to stay but it takes away all My freedom I prefer on the camino. For instance today if I call a place in Moclin and then arrive there way to early, good legs and not to hot then I want to go further. Or if I decide to do the reservations 2 stages away and get to Moclin in a mess.... How welcoming are they of late cancellations? If I use bookings.com I'll be charged.
Apart from that CM is really nice and Almeria-Granada Association has been really helpful. Last night when I arrived late to the albergue with the code for the key I was stopped by a big green gate I saw a pad lock on the handle on the inside and didn't even start to try to open (tired and pissed of after a really shitty second half of a day that started so perfect). Sent a WhatsApp to Veronica and she said it should be open so if anyone else comes there and see the pad lock do an attempt before heading down the hill again to the hotel.
Time to go up and scrub through my backpack for some breakfast. Then try to find out the way through the olive groves instead of a river crossing, marked? Anyone with a GPS-track for that part (if responding within 30 minutes or so)
The arrows worked fine after leaving town and no water in the crossings. But first 5 km tarmac. I town I followed the arrows and just in the end arrows on two lampposts were blacked out. Got insecure, looked at the map in the guide and on the gps and saw that the track should pass a station or something. But just when I turned around a man on a balcony called me back and pointed at a sign on the wall. And I was finding the way again. At some point in the olive groves an arrow pointed straight and it looked totally walkable but I didn't see any more arrows up a small hill, turned back down again and saw that I should follow the fence to the left. Some arrows here and there are faint but after several caminos I know where to look for arrows and did see them. It was a lovely walk today and now I have the whole absolutely lovely CR up on the hill in Alcála la Real for my self. Tomorrow is a "rest day" only 26 to Alcaudete. Today Artafe that I passed yesterday was flooded as well as Alcaudete according to the news so it feels a little bit scary walking totally alone. But I missed the rain today or almost I had to sit under my umbrella at the gate of the CR to wait for the owner.Good to hear from you, Beatrice. Sorry I got up too late to help. But for future Mozárabe peregrinos, hope to clarify a bit. There has been some confusion about the route from Pinos Puente to Moclín. Joe and some others took a route that got them in that river crossing, I think some of the April mob took the direct shot road (GR-3408), and I took a totally different route, this one, I think. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-2-pinos-puente-moclin-6919742
I remember that in Pinos Puente at one point an arrow pointed me straight through town, but my GPS said turn right and go up to the top of town.
I think the olive grove mess LT got into was after Moclín, but that was not a problem for me and I didn't even have to pull out my GPS. So I am pretty sure marking has been improved in the years after LT walked.
BTW, Beatrice,
I think the need to call ahead ends in Granada. There's not the same tight knit cabal taking care of everything like there is between Almería and Granada.
Buen camino, Laurie
Hooking up with someone is really hard here. I know that there is a French guy 2 stages behind me. He walks incredible slow and don't speak a word other than French. Have met 2 other French but they stop I Granada tomorrow. So I'm solo. I have a short day tomorrow only 26I can relate about the lack of spontaneity with booking ahead as I had to get my bag transported every morning, so planned every evening. Sometimes I had to walk further than I wanted to. My friends had true freedom by not booking ahead. We always got a bed but had to lower expectations on price & comfort. Exhaustion can play its role too in things so have you thought about having a really short day or hooking with someone for a day ?
Sending Love
Miki
Thanks. I haven't booked ahead more than a messages to Veronica to get albergue key box codes. If the police can hand out albergue keys at any time it won't be an issue. My problem is otherwise that I do long stages and arrive after office hours sometimes when town hall is closed. In this heat I have had more breaks along the way than usual.We (4 Australian women) walked the Mozarabe April 2017. We never booked ahead and always found a bed or, at least, floor space. We got lost in the olive groves but managed to find our way to Santiago. Buen Camino, Beatrice.
Beatrice, I have not read everything by any means, but am scanning, and glad to see that you are managing. I imagine, from other posts of yours, that you are very capable. Buen camino!Started late today at 0740 arrived in Alcaudete now at 1250. Ocean of time to just relax today's. Checked in at Hildalgo. Let's see what this town has to offer.
Thanks. I tried to contact Peter today via chat message on WhatsApp early in the morning but no answer (had problem with the batteries in the phone today, it shut down during phonecalls but now fixed after 4 restarts and a proper charging). Ended up in Hieldago instead unfortunately as I would have love to stay with Peter after all praise of his place. Thank for the warning about Ruta del Califato. No bathroom during night sounds like a nightmare especially one week a month as a woman. It would be nice to see one or two other pilgrims now. Haven't seen any for a few days. But today I met a local woman originally from England so I had a chat with her in the bar. It seams like I still have a voice at leastHI Beatrice -
I'm so happy to see that you're in touch with Veronica. The help from her and the Almeria Association is fantastic.
If you book ahead but feel like continuing to the next place, I think it is OK to call your host and make new arrangements. Any of the hosts that I met would understand.
Advance communication is particularly important for places like Peter's house in Alcaudete, because he is the only person there. (And he is one of the nicest hosts on the way).
I stopped making advance reservations after Baena because it started to feel unnecessary. I got along fine like that until almost the end of my journey (Mombuey, on the Sanabres. When I got there at 6pm without a reservation, the owner of the private albergue refused to open for me and I got help from a local to find the hospitalero of the public albergue who gave me the key).
From Baena, you might have more companions on the path, since the routes from Malaga, Jaen, and Almeria all merge together.
In Baena, I would avoid the Ruta del Califato, if possible. When I stayed, guests in the dorm room were unable to access the toilet during the night. If you do stay there, I would get a private room and make sure that you have access to a bathroom.
Thanks. On this camino money my last problem so 20 or 25 is fine.Hotel La Casa Grande in Baena is fabulous for the pilgrim rate of 20 Euros (or maybe it was 25).
I do agree with you. I try to have that feeling. I would probably be able to sleep outdoors unless it isn't pouring down and it is an option if I don't get a bed. I have also slept on floors where there has been completo everywhere. My backpack's back is a short detachable (shoulder to hip) sleeping pad. I have a back problem and an injured leg though so not to many nights like thatAs I read this, I think back just 50 or 60 years ago. Across Rural Spain, at that time, there was some infrastructure for this pilgrimage, but no one was concerned as to, "calling ahead," reserving, "una cama," for the night. Personally, it is that experience that I relish during my walking. When I walk, there is no stress over where I will lay my head that night, no reservations. I know there will be some place to stretch out and sleep for a few hours. If I can find food and wash up a bit, that is a bonus.
Granted, I do carry what is needed to sleep outdoors but the weight that this adds is very acceptable to provide so much more freedom.
Yes I'll. Having a snack in the hostel now and then off to there. Have to do some turist thingsHi @BeatriceKarjalainen
Looking at your Instagram pics ., the country does look brown. I was there in spring of 2012.
I hope you’re planning to see the ‘Mezquita ‘ while you are in Córdoba.
Enjoying your posts.
Buen Camino
Annie
What a marvelous place it is. Took the audio guide and was amazed. Well spent time. And it was cool in thereYes I'll. Having a snack in the hostel now and then off to there. Have to do some turist things
Yes things are going quite fine. Still no pilgrims though so I miss someone to share experiences with in the end of the day. And it seams like the worst heat is over. Still starting a little bit earlier than I would like to but as today the stage is 36 km so I have to as nothing lays between me and next stop.I agree with you completely! I saw the dirt path and took it, wondering just what you were wondering. Actually, I saw someone walking over there, about 3 meters to my left, and I just popped over as soon as I could. Good advice for future Mozarabe pilgrims. Hope things are going better for you, BK!
They used really strong signalling with like 5-6 arrows go up on the road don't continue on path. Normally that is used when you are about to wander of in totally wrong direction further on if not following arrows so I didn't even try. The first half I was on my way but the dirt covered asphalt was ok and had some shade. The second half some shade would have been very nice. Maybe one should write to the association and ask them to mark both ways or change. In afternoon it is safer with shade.I agree with you completely! I saw the dirt path and took it, wondering just what you were wondering. Actually, I saw someone walking over there, about 3 meters to my left, and I just popped over as soon as I could. Good advice for future Mozarabe pilgrims. Hope things are going better for you, BK!
I would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.Anyone who stopped for a massage on the camino? I have never done it and have always said, when in Santiago... But when I'm in Santiago I forget.
You just made my evening @RaggyI would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.
On the other hand, I got an awesome shave at a barber shop in Santiago. It made me feel like a fresh prince. I'll give you the address if you ... Oh.
I slept insteadI would avoid it if I were you. A mediocre masseur could mess you up. I booked a treatment at the expensive hamam in Cordoba. Poor ambiance and bad massage. Authentic Hamam in Morocco is much better in all respects.
On the other hand, I got an awesome shave at a barber shop in Santiago. It made me feel like a fresh prince. I'll give you the address if you ... Oh.
I'm in Hinojosa del Duque since 11 today. Tomorrow a long stage, read it was 10-13 km on asphalt tomorrow depending on water level in the river. As there has been no water in rivers so far I think I opt for that instead of 3 km road walking. But will check with locals.Glad to hear that you had a good encounter with another pilgrim. You will be going through Hinojosa del Duque and Castuera soon. Quite a lot of roadside walking. At least the albergues are good and the track under your feet is better after Castuera.
I think I take my chances with a 3 km backtracking tomorrow, will decide when I stand in the crossingHi, Beatrice, Hinojosa to Monterrubio, even with the asphalt, is a pretty stage, IMO. Nothing spectacular, but nice and quiet. Nice to have had company, if only briefly!
I stayed on the road because of what people told me in Hinojosa del Duque, and they were wrong, so I wouldn’t put too much faith in what you hear from the locals. I know that several people after me crossed with no problem. It is of course a risk, and the asphalt side of the road was not so bad (virtually no cars), so I guess unless you’re prepared for retracing your steps, the safer thing is to take the road. But I’m sure the off-road to the river is MUCH nicer! Good luck with this, let us know what you choose.
You probably know that you will have another water crossing issue, when you leave Moclín, and I was hoping that @BadPilgrim would post about his journey through Yelbes, but he left us all hanging at his last post. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/after-medellín-through-yelbes-or-santa-amalia.55541/#post-640337
The albergue in Castuera is also superb, and the town is pleasant.The albergue here in Monterrubio de la Serena is lovely.
The albergue in Castuera is also superb, and the town is pleasant.
In Campanario, I stayed at the apartamento Malay. I didn't like it so much - impersonal and I was overcharged. I expect the Polideportivo is very basic but it will be cheap. Stop for a drink at Bar Estella in the centre of Campanario. One of the young owners is an amateur flamenco singer. He is very welcoming to pilgrims.
I'll walk to Campanario tomorrow. I guess my views will be a little bit different. It Will be yellow brown and brown and yellow. But it is nice anyway. I think I will check out the Albergue in the old railway station if my body doesn't say stop before that. As long as I have a bedbug free bed and a shower I don't require much more bit of course it is nice to get more but not for any price.Monterrubio to Campanario was one of my favorite days on this section of the Mozárabe, especially from Castuera to Campanario out in the fields. The wild flowers this spring were mind-boggling because of three months of rain! I too stayed in Campanario at the Malay. There is a very good restaurant across the street, but the pensión is NOT very nice. I actually had a room with no windows and had to leave the door open for some air. It wasn’t scary, but just very sterile and unfriendly. Others stayed a bit out of town in the albergue at the train station and thought it was much nicer.
That is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.Others stayed a bit out of town in the albergue at the train station and thought it was much nicer.
Thanks. I don't like road walking in heavy traffic but I really don't like taking the bus either and I do not like river crossings (or more the fact of not knowing if one is able to cross or not) so that day will be a challenge any how I choose :-/I may be jumping the gun here, but I'll offer some advice about the last stage before Merida. As you will know from other blogs, there is a very unpleasant stretch - 4km along the N-430 with a very narrow space between the traffic and steel barriers. Both the route through Santa Amalia and the route through Yelbes will take you along this busy road. Things get better once you reach Torrefresnada.
My description of the stage is here:
https://jonagrams.com/2018/08/22/day-31-28-oct-2017-somewhere-near-vereda-palomera-to-merida-31km/
If I were walking this route again, I would either take the off-Camino route that others have described (which requires a river crossing) or I would take a bus from Santa Amalia to Torrefresnada. (It leaves Santa Amalia at 8:00am and 10:35am on Mondays to Fridays; at 10:35 on Saturdays; and at 18:30 on Sundays). Here's the link to the timetable.
http://www.unionbusextremadura.com/pdf-unionbusextremadura/Badajoz - Villarta.pdf
Thanks. Will remember that. Will check map how far out. I'm that kind of person though that after a shower and 30 minutes rest I usally take a 2-3 km walk around the town I'm staining inThat is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.
I'll walk to Campanario tomorrow. I guess my views will be a little bit different. It Will be yellow brown and brown and yellow. But it is nice anyway. I think I will check out the Albergue in the old railway station if my body doesn't say stop before that. As long as I have a bedbug free bed and a shower I don't require much more bit of course it is nice to get more but not for any price.
That is good to hear. It is quite far out of town, though, so I think it's a good idea to have a meal or buy food as you pass through the centre of Campanario. It saves you having to walk back into town.
And it’s a really really nice walk to Magacela. I stayed too long walking around the castle ruins in Magacela, and had a hot sun slog into Medellín, but thankfully, almost all off road. And Medellín, if you like castles and if you like Roman ruins (an excavated theater right below the castle walls) is a five star attraction. It is also the birthplace of Hernán Cortés, whose life the city still seems to want to celebrate, though he was a force for pure unmitigated evil in his day.
Actually, I managed to get lost. But I'm an over-achiever when it comes to doing the impossible like that.The amigos have done a great job marking the Camino into Merida, it's impossible to get lost!
Actually, I managed to get lost. But I'm an over-achiever when it comes to doing the impossible like that.
Did you visit the elementary school on the way into Merida with MOZARABE in big letters on the wall? To my regret, I missed it because of my poor navigation. Pilgrims are welcome to say hello there.
p.s. hmm I do not remember walking along a narrow shoulder along a busy highway but what I do remember is a long stretch on an old highway which is located to the right of the busy highway. Not scenic but the side road was empty. Maybe something changed since 2014.
Ok I'll get my self a Yelbes track then as they say the arrows are few on that route. I'll decide tomorrow.Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)
What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.
Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755
Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267
And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240
It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.
But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit I don’t see any way to avoid the N-430 without taking the river crossing from Yelbes, so I am stumped and have no idea how you did this.
I also walked Medellín to Mérida. I had planned to stop in San Pedro de Mérida, but when I got there, I decided to carry on after a long rest, a bathroom break in the ayuntamiento, and a refill of my water bottle from their cooler. From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)
Ah, the mysteries of the Mozárabe. Hope you are doing well, Beatrice, will you continue on from Mérida? Buen camino, Laurie
Ok I'll get my self a Yelbes track then as they say the arrows are few on that route. I'll decide tomorrow.
According to one guide I have downloaded you need to walk 2 km over the bridge then there shall be a serviceroad to the left directly after the bridge if my translated text is right. But the guide might be really old.
Will look at the tracks you gave me. My phone is still behaving odd, turning off at 78 % battery so I do prefer to have arrows to follow for most of the walk. And if the river is uncrossable how much to I have to backtrack?
The text to that track reads (Google translated) I advise you to go for santa amalia aunk is 5 kms longer. This variant of mine crosses the river and it gets wet. If the river brings a lot of water you can not pass "they crossed me on a tractor" you can go x yelbes and from yelbes throw everything by road or santa amalia. If you use my variant k is painted can also be k retro touch eder 12kms to reach the river.Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755
The routes joins at the bridge so how can one be more on the N-430?It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada.
The routes joins at the bridge so how can interview be more on the N-430?
At least the track I have comes down from Santa Amalia just before the bridge. Upper image, the other one is the Yelbes from wikiloc View attachment 46824
From Santa Amalia, the route takes you along the east bank of the Rio Búrdalo and you join N-430 immediately before the bridge. I think the route from Yelbes joins N-430 at the same point.It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option
The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.[/QUOTE]It looks to me
I have been lucky regarding river crossings so far (mostly wading 2 km in Nacimiento would some consider unlucky). But I haven't decided yet. Will take my time in Medellin to go through options. It would be good to pass Medellin today go shorten tomorrow's stage but don't know of any place to stay in Yelbes. Will check that.Looking at the map, I estimate 8km walk from the ford across the river up to the N-430 bridge.
It's like a Dirty Harry movie - Do you feel lucky?
Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)
What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.
Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755
Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267
And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240
It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.
But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit
From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)
From Santa Amalia, the route takes you along the east bank of the Rio Búrdalo and you join N-430 immediately before the bridge. I think the route from Yelbes joins N-430 at the same point.
I am in complete agreement that a bridge would be ideal. A pedestrian bridge might cost in excess of 200,000 Euros, but I think it would be worth raising the money to provide a safer route.
I must have pressed the wrong button somewhere. The page is sometimes jumping around on my phone.Fine to quote me but these aren't my posts, they're Laurie's. She is great investigator, I'm just a simple pilgrim
Do you know if it is a constant flow river or just a rainy season river bed which might now be dry if in past days there were no rain?Visited the roman theatre and the castle. Interesting places. Now feet tired again. But hopefully they are fine again tomorrow. Have asked locals about the river but none here knows. It's a lot water in the river here at least. There are absolutely no farmers out on the fields. Haven't seen one for days. All crops are done and fields prepared for winter so a tractor over the river will probably not be an option. So road it is then if I don't hear anything else later on.
Sorry - fixed now.Fine to quote me but these aren't my posts, they're Laurie's. She is great investigator, I'm just a simple pilgrim
Thanks. There is a lot more photos at http://instagram.com/beastankar and diary at http://beastankar blogspot.com (a week behind at the moment).THank you for your frequent posts that let us vicariously be with you! I especially love all the photos! Been camino!
You just might be right Laurie! I can't verify as I don't use tracks. But even so, I don't recall having difficulty or a dangerous section from Medellín to San Pedro. Mysterious.
Yes a Sunday morning. Perfect.Reading @BeatriceKarjalainen’s account of her camino, my bet is that it was a Sunday. Could that possibly be right? Anyway, for future Mozárabe pilgrims, if there is anyway you can walk into Mérida on a Sunday, it would be highly preferable to the death-defying walk I did early in the morning after the bridge and before Torrefresnada.
And Beatrice, kudos to you. You now join several other forum members currently on the Vdlp, so keep your eyes out! Hope you enjoy the Vdlp now, there are some mighty fine Spanish cities in your future, even if you don’t like cities!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hi, Beatrice,Visited the roman theatre and the castle. Interesting places. Now feet tired again. But hopefully they are fine again tomorrow. Have asked locals about the river but none here knows. It's a lot water in the river here at least. There are absolutely no farmers out on the fields. Haven't seen one for days. All crops are done and fields prepared for winter so a tractor over the river will probably not be an option. So road it is then if I don't hear anything else later on.
I seem to recall that the tour guide at the Almeria refuges said that the civil war shelters were maintained for a considerable time into WW2 in case they were needed. So, you could both be rightcouldn't be a bomb shelter during WW2 because Spain was neutral and there were no battles or bombardments.
That might be the case, yes. But it definitely wasn't actually used as bomb shelter in WW2, it just wasI seem to recall that the tour guide at the Almeria refuges said that the civil war shelters were maintained for a considerable time into WW2 in case they were needed. So, you could both be right
I might have remembered it wrong but I think I read WW2 and reacted to as I couldn't remember Spain being involved so you are probably right. I was tired and it was hot. Think I might have a photo of the sign somewhere on my f*cked up phone that has scrambled the order of all my photos when I moved them to the SD card.Hi, Beatrice,
I just looked at your Instagram photos for past few days and have one observation. The Moorish cistern in the castle in Medellin couldn't be a bomb shelter during WW2 because Spain was neutral and there were no battles or bombardments. But maybe it was a bomb shelter during SCW
Nice pics BTW!
Buen Camino!
Well, I Have been doing a bit of searching for some wikiloc trails to see if I can figure out how you both avoided the highway into Torrefresnada and didn’t do the river crossing. (Yes, I am taking a break from my much less exciting work!)
What I did was Medellín to Yelbes, and then out to where the trail merges with the Santa Amalia alternative. That is right at the place where the big bridge over the river is. And right after the river are the really really horrible kms. Much worse, IMO, than Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres.
Here are tracks through Yelbes and over the river, which avoids the highway altogether. You can see some zig zagging when it gets near the river, but looks like the crossing wasn’t a problem, and this was in June, when there’s probably more water than now.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/etapa-18-medellin-merida-camino-mozarabe-9878755
Here are the tracks that I must have done. Through Yelbes, then out to the bridge where you get on the N-430 into Torrefresnada. Not fun.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/15-camino-mozarabe-medellin-a-merida-4172267
And here’s something I never saw — Medellín to Santa Amalia and from there to Alcuéscar without going through Mérida (which would be a shame to miss, IMO). But it’s 46 km, a bit too high for many, but maybe not @beatrice! Maybe not on top of a 54 km day, though.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-07-medellin-alcuescar-1768240
It looks to me that if you go via Santa Amalia, you have twice as many kms along the N-430 than if you take the Yelbes option, so even if you are not going to try the river crossing, I would consider Medellín to Yelbes to the bridge to Torrefresnada. The best of all would be to be able to cross the river without getting on the N-430. What we need is some sort of pedestrian bridge there! I guess if the numbers ever get high enough, the amigos might consider it.
But anyway, back to my original question for @LTfit I don’t see any way to avoid the N-430 without taking the river crossing from Yelbes, so I am stumped and have no idea how you did this.
I also walked Medellín to Mérida. I had planned to stop in San Pedro de Mérida, but when I got there, I decided to carry on after a long rest, a bathroom break in the ayuntamiento, and a refill of my water bottle from their cooler. From San Pedro to Mérida is kind of a slog, but thankfully a lot of it is off road, after you walk along the autovía for a while (LT, maybe that is what you are remembering?)
Ah, the mysteries of the Mozárabe. Hope you are doing well, Beatrice, will you continue on from Mérida? Buen camino, Laurie
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