- Time of past OR future Camino
- Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo 2019
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Greetings, young Mike!Plans are now coming together and I expect to fly to Alicante on 17 Apr.
Plans are now coming together and I expect to fly to Alicante on 17 Apr. I am booked to brush up on my Spanish (hope to be able to do more than just the essentials - wine, food, bed! - after the course) from 18 to 21 and start the walk on 22. First planned stop in Montforte del Cid which should be a comfortable first days walk of between 25 and 29km depending which source you believe!
Owing to the lack of a single up to date guide I will be using a GPS track when necessary and also plan to collect the latest guide from the Asociación amigos del camino de Santiago de Alicante when I am in Alicante. I have also gathered together a lot of general info in a spreadsheet that you should be able to see here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ve9sh6ajmp2oz6v/AACSHaGef1ri7ZV1Vai0QoRCa?dl=0
I plan to update this thread during the walk as often as possible.
Now in Alicante having had a very smooth and trouble free trip out. Found my accommodation easily and the start of the Camino! Here for 4 days to brush up my Spanish. Disconcerting that the simple trip here will now take more than 5 weeks to travel back home!
Alex - Thanks for that.
I tried a CSJ guide before for a previous Camino and did not like it at all. Far, far too wordy and very few maps. Does their Sureste guide have a good maps?
I’m content with gps track and my friend google maps! I’m staying in a shared flat in Alicante before my camino as part of the spanish course and I have contacted the Amigos de Santiago en Alicante and plan to visit them before I leave as they say they have a ’new’ guide.
Went to find the Amigos de Santiago en Alicante so I knew where they were when they opened on Thursday to find them open! Typical! However, at least I could get the guide (5euro) which looks very comprehensive with good maps. Just need to massively improve my Spanish to read it all! After 4.5 hrs of lessons today I think my head will explode!
Alicante to Monforte del Cid. About 28 km. Started at 0720 and arrived at 1220. A bit early for my air B&B room but the owner was fine with be arriving early. Quite east to find my way out of the city and after the cemetery there were plenty of yellow arrows to show the way. In fact the amigos de Alicante's guide seems to be very good and well worth the 5 euros. Probably about 60% tarmac and pavement but the rest was nice rugged tracks. After only an hour I had left most of the city behind, and saw pigs wandering around and an hour later I was out in the country. As I neared Orito there was a sign showing an alternate route to MdC which saved about 2 km so I took that route as it was my planned destination. Air B&B seems a useful tool for Camino's like this that have less albergues di peregrinos (AdP) to choose from. In fact I'm using it for tomorrow's stop in Sax but hope to stay in the AdP in Caudete the following day. Saw no one else on the track today.
MdC to Sax 25kms
Left at 0730 on what was a cool but sunny day. In fact didn't take my fleece off until 1000! Easy to follow track that was well marked until I got to Petrer. It is often difficult to follow the Camino signs through cities and this was true here. Got most of the way through then lost the signs. Not helped by the fiesta in progress! No problem as I have a gps track and my mate google. Ultimately found my way through but added about 5 kind to the route, so did 30 kms instead of 25. Track after Petrer was well marked and the last few kms into Sax were a pleasant stroll along a river. Got to Sax at 1300 and stopped for food ( and a large beer). Room not available until 1500 ( which I knew) so just relaxing and sorting things out for my walk to Caudete tomorrow.
On my way to MdC at the moment. No places in between but I knew that so have plenty of water. Route is dimple and flat and I Agee avotthe red elephants. Just spoke to the tourist office in Petrola so I should be ok for a bed there! Next few stages are awkward if there is nowhere to stay ion Petrola. I would prefer not to need to call the day before but that seems to be the requirement.
I was joined in the AdP in MdC by a Spanish peregrino called Pepe. He is doing the Camino on on electric bike! The person who let us into the AdP warned us not to let the door close unless we had a key. Evidently, someone recently stepped outside to check something and the door closed and locked on them. No keys and no trousers! Had to go across to the restaurant to get them to phone for help!
MdC to Petrola only 23kms
An easy day today but the next stop is another 36 kms away. Left at 0710 and arrived at 1200. Lovely stroll today on a good track with lots of little twists and turns. Pleasant scenery and still dry. Although the last 6km was dead straight again! This is a very small place so found my way to the bed,after asking for help,them asked for the best place to eat. Hopefully they are open tonight as well. The albergue is very simple, just 4 bunk beds on a room that is part of the church. A hand basin with cold water and a toilet. So it was an RA's dhoby for me! (Ask a navy person what that means!) To get to the AdP you need to phone Damian Lopez the day before. Then when you arrive you need to call again and go to 19 Calle San Bernard to get the key. I had to ask the baker! Damian is 100 m right of bar Jesus the AdP is to the left of the bar by the church.
Think I have got the photos to upload now! Here are a few from the previous part of the camino
Yes you are correct.The first picture is from the first arrow next to the Basílica, right? There is a pensión at the other side of the street, if anyone wants a fast start!
Petrola to Albacete 35km
Got up to a wet day today so put on my trusty poncho and headed out at 0700. Arrived just before 1400 and it rained or drizzled most of the time. Luckily, Albacete had the least as the track in would have been very muddy otherwise. I could see heavy rain either side in the distance but I stayed fairly lucky. In fact, yesterday in this region there was an extremely heavy hailstorm for 30 mins that damaged large areas of crops so I was glad to miss that too. Besides the rain it was a nice track for most of the way and I was treated to a Spanish airforce display on my way in, loops, corkscrews and what looked like bombing runs. Glad I was not a target! Albacete looks like a fairly standard medium sized city but I'll get to explore later once I have checked into my Airbnb room at 1500. See photo - a bit better than last night!
Markings were not so good today. I realised early on that one very large rock just out of Petrola had been moved so the direction was wrong and later on many appeared to be missing. Also, the final 5 kms ish into the city should be a fairly straight track but the route has been used to dump tons of soil on. Had to go around, not difficult but a nuisance. Glad I had the gpx track and apple maps today!
Thanks. I like to scout my way out each day so I know where to go. Especially in cities. Just spent an hour trying to find the way out of Albacete to Roda! Knew I had to get across the rail line but stupidly missed the pedestrian bridge! Think I assumed I was looking for a road! As usual the markings on the city are hard to hunt down. As it 40kms tomorrow and 43kms the next day I could do with a flat day. Just hope it is dry.
Albacete to La Roda 40kms
Started at 0720 and arrived at 1500 after a shot stopper for a coffee at La Gineta.
Albacete was a typical Spanish city in that there is no suburb - you go straight from the city to farmland. Pity about the open drain, that used to be a river, on the way out. An Europe had the cheek to call UK "the dirty man of Europe!!"
Simple well marked track out of town after getting over the rail tracks. Mainly dry to start with but it gradually got damper until after 2 hours I had to put my poncho on. Then kept raining to rest of the way. As recommended in my Spanish guided I had phoned the AdP the day before. When I found it there was no sign or any info about access. So I called the same number again and was told he be over in 40 mins. Lovely to hang around in the rain and it was only 10 degs He did turn up as promised and explained that all the beds had been taken! By now there were 3 of us as 2 German ladies had arrived who are walking the Camino Levante and the 2 routes cross here - which is why it was busy. 11 people and only 2 of us are on the Sureste. Fortunately, they had some spare mattresses- one look and the German ladies left! I did not fancy wandering around any more so I grabbed one and got on with it. The AdP is fairly basic and a bit of a mess. The standards on the Sureste seem a lot lower than on other routes. I can understand for the Sureste as it's not walked often, but the Levante is much busier. Hope it's dry tomorrow as I would prefer not to have a third wet day. The distances are challenging enough for the first week without the wet adding to the blister risk!
Yes, kind of cake/sweets. I didn't try it but it's a must they sayYes in the bull ring. Miguelitos?
True. Sureste is on the left of the tracks and exits Albacete through industrial area (with Decathlon) and Levante crosses autovia and tracks and runs on right side of them.... I think the Levante and the Sureste exits Albacete in different ways? ...
Hahahahaha, at least some comfortSaw some blue sky just now then it started raining hard and thundering! Rain is so heavy the locals are taking photos. I told them I was English so it was normal, then had another beer!
After a small place call Casas de Roldan the directions almost disappeared. In fact without my excellent sense of direction ( otherwise known as Apple maps) I'd have had little chance of finding my way. Many junctions had no arrows at all and it was made more difficult by the circular fields that the paths followed.
However, it could not of been better here as Manuel, who I phoned yesterday to say I was coming, must have seen me walking down the street as he came and met me about 1km from the sports hall and led me in. Then, no only was he very efficient getting me settled, but he gave me a load of other info about future places to stay. He is the star of the Camino Sureste to date.
I got there at what must have been peak time for their family Sunday lunch!
Route from EP was simple a very well marked and after LM it was along the road for about 11km and then the rest was on a good track.
I called tomorrow's place earlier today-El Rincon del Infante- which is highly recommended for peregrino's - but when I asked for a room I got a very long winded reply of which I understood very little!! Lucky, I found them on Booking.com so reserved that way!!
Yes, Tembleque (A Posada) them Mora and Toledo if everything goes to plan.Ok,
And tomorrow off to Tembleque? Juan will give you the directions to a good place to stay in Tembleque, unless you have other plans!
View attachment 33522 View attachment 33523 Just a short note about El Toboso. Overall, I think the Hostel Don Quijote is best avoided. It is expensive, both for the bed and the food and the standard is poor considering the price. I would suggest that others first try the convent. If that is not possible or not your favourite option there are 2 Casa Rurals signed outside the village. Only about 1km from the Hostel and right on the Camino. One called Casa del Cominco the Amendros with phone numbers of 678694498 and 615960618.
Tomorrow I plan to got to Mora as there is evidently a good place to stay called El Toledano. This way I can avoid having to stay in Almonacid de Toledo which has a bad reputation and go direct to Toledo the next day. The day after also looks like a variation as I am told that beds in Noves are extremely limited so instead I will probably head for Torrijos which should be about 34kms and then the next day head for Escalona ( about 27 kms) or go on to Cadalso which would be about 45 kms. The choice will depend on how I feel and what the weather is like!
Torrijos is supposed to have an albergue. Can find some stuff from 2013 on the web but no phone number. Juan told me about it. There are other options there anyway. As for Mora I can only find the Toledano so I'll see. Do you have any other info about beds in Noves - how many? Does the Lavante go through there as well? As that makes it busier. Must say that the Posado here is really excellent for 20 euros. Not forgetting that if there was two of us it would probably still be 20 euros! Thanks for info about Bar Abuelo.
Intended to stop at Villanueva de Bogas but no bar to be found.
route from VdC to Mora was excellent- probably the nicest so far.
I asked in the village and they said there was nowhere except further out on the main road.There are at least 2 bars. There is one on your right just after entering the village. But the entrance is not towards the street but around the corner of the building; perhaps it's easy to just walk by. The other one is even less visible I think, and on the left side if I'm not mistaken, on another street than the "main" one through the village.
Mora to Toledo 37kms
Started a bit earlier at 0645 and arrived in Toledo at 1430 after a breakfast/lunch stop at Burguillos. Route out from Mora was good through the city but haphazard thereafter. Didn't matter as the Don Quijote camino is well marked. Seems a pity to focus on a modern made up route. I know my tan must have come on a bit as when I was walking through Cobisa a delivery driver stopped and as me for directions! The last 8kms or so down into Toledo are lovely, until you get the all the tourists on the high side of the river taking their photos. As you get to the main road and start to follow the river there is track that heads down towards the river. I ignored it as I was not aware of any other way across the river. However, there is clearly a 'ferry' on a steel rope that goes across the river. Not sure how you get to use it but if it's not in use the path follows on and then climbs back up to the road. I took the high route and entered the city across the old pedestrian bridge. The city is full of tourists. I'm no fan of big cities so I will be glad to leave for Noves tomorrow. Here it was 2.20 euros for a coke!! I'll try to phone the hospitalero in Noves later.
Sureste approach into Toledo must be much nicer than the Levante one. On Levante you walk last 10 or so kilometers on the highway. Not very pleasant especially in summer heat.
Was looking carefully for where this 'new' route via Villamiel splits from the alternate route via Rieves. However, it seems the what signs I saw were only to the villamiel route.
The route from Paredes de Escalona has been made more direct than previously with clearly lots of effort and the way is very well marked. Last 7km are on a very old tarmac road that is uphill all the way to CdlV.
BP- thank you for the info. The guy de offers both routes so why the preference ?
As I know after Nambroca official Levante goes to the right and Sureste to the left.Oh, but I think it is the same way. I approached Toledo on the same road both on Levante and Sureste. Or is there an alternative that I am not aware of? Mike (Sureste) said he went from Burguillos-Cobisa to Toledo, which is also the Levante track. Right?
Cadalso de los Vidrios to San Bartolome de Pinares via Cebreros 37kms (felt like 40 +)!
A wonderful walk today but tough. Started at 0700 and arrived at 1445. Blue skies and mid to high 20s by the afternoon. Lots of birds singing and besides the first 8kms it was just about all off road. Just before Cebreros I walked through a mass of people and passed many more who it turned out were going to the towns big festa! The Day was tough because from about 5kms before Cebreros until about 12kms before SBdP it's all uphill. Climbed about 700m and that's not counting the bits where you go down a little so you can go up again! That said the scenery and track were great. A few lovely old bridges and lots of scrambling between grit stone boulders. There is a stretch where I was really glad there had been no rain as it was a bit boggy even now. Way was extremely well marked. I had hoped to stay in the AdP but failed to find it. I knew it was supposed to be in Casa de Pino and I had telephone numbers. No answer on the phones and when I asked in a couple of bars and elsewhere I just got a puzzled response. Didn't want to spend much more time hunting around so went to Hostal El Patio (25 euros). There is also another Hostal called Beatriz Toledo. It's a pity that none of the AdPs on this camino so far have had a single arrow pointing to where they are and if you are lucky enough to fine it there probably no sign outside let alone anything on the door to tell people how to get the keys. After settling in I took a stroll around SBdP as I thought I would have a look for the other Hostal (it does not appear to be there any more!) and the AdP- which I still could not find - as I would have liked to get an address and I would have far preferred to give them the money!
BP - I set before I saw your post about the route into SBdP. I took the off road route ( the guide shows both options) but I prefer off road and it was the way marked.
Good for others to have extra info about the AdP in SBdP. The other Hostal I mentioned is one that comes up on google!Tornadizos de Ávila is not on the Camino but very close, if you need a bar before Ávila.
/BP
SBdP to Avila 25km
Left at 0730 and arrived at - 1230
Beautiful day again and a wonderful short stroll to Avila. There is another steep climb starting 6kms out of SBdP when it climbs 450m in about 4kms - which I really felt after yesterday's hill. Glad it was only 25kms in the end. Also this steep stretch could be a problem if it has been wet as you would probably be walking up a stream! In that case, better to take the road I think. Could see some snow on top of some of the distant hills and could feel the temperature drop at the top today. The rest of the walk was mainly downhill all the way to Avila. It is noticeable how much the general way markings and info has improved since getting into the Castillo and Leon region. The AdP here is excellent and it is clearly marked on the way.All the facilities inc a washing machine! However, it is on the outside of the wall so you may end up walking a kilometre or 2 further than you expect! Great location right on the Camino. There is a notice outside with the hospitalero's phone number, but luckily when I arrived he was there just getting ready to leave.
Nice you did that...
At about 4pm a Norwegian man turned up and was very disappointed to be told there was nowhere to eat!! He considered going on but as the next stop of any size is 28kms it did seem like a great plan. Explained I have enough to share so neither of us will starve.
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