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The French Way in February

Jseanblack

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Norte, Primitivo
My brother is walking the French Way very soon and on short notice. I’m trying to help him get prepared.

I’ve walked the Norte in Aug/Sept and it was a hot one so I don’t want to bias my advise as I’m thinking the French way in February can get pretty cold.

To combat this I have advised a layer of smart wool underwear and addition of a light down packable coat and zip off pants to the normal mix of cloths most pilgrims end up with in their pack. I’m guessing he will be more of a pension person than an Albuquerque so I’m not advising bringing any sleeping bags.

He’s in his 60’s and decent shape.

Any advise for a newbie Camino walker on the French way starting around February 10th or so?
 
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My advice would be 'enjoy the relative peace and quiet', and if you find that you're lacking something - i.e. you're too cold in the refugios, the French way is amply stuffed with largish towns and cities where you can augment your kit.
 
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Your brother must be prepared for ice, cold and storms.

Difficult CF stretches after storms could be; the Valcarlos route up to Roncesvalles (the Napoleon route is closed from November to April), across the Montes de Oca from Villafranca, Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Monte Irago and, of course, to and from O Cebreiro.

In the happy, easier past years, 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2010, when I walked the CF late autumn /winter accommodation started to close mid October but some place was always open. There were no summer crowds and beds/bunks were available. I usually slept in albergues, often the sole pilgrim, but also in back rooms of an open bar/restaurant.

Walking off-season during those past years I rarely saw more than 20 pilgrims at one time. There usually was a strong sense of camaraderie amongst those of us on the route especially during storms or difficult stretches.

Do carry simple non perishable "extra" food. Spain is filled with delicious stops, but all are not always affordable nor open; the one food shop in town may be closed on the same day as the only resto/bar. No joke.

On past winter caminos especially during storms when I stopped in small and remote albergues far from any supply source novice pilgrims often staggered in wet, cold and hungry. They may have had the best gear but carried no food!

Of course I shared; a chunk of cheese and wedge of sausage with a few dried abricots can be ambrosia in such a setting. A smile returned by a new friend over a simple meal is one of the Camino's many joys.

I wish your brother good luck, fair weather, and a Buen camino.
 
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Lovely sentiments - and I agree - there is nothing quite so nice as sharing what you have with people who have nothing. It happened to me in Burgos, in that municipal refuge in the park (which I'm sure you remember), and the young couple who shared their dinner with me, despite having very scant resources, made an impression which has never left me.
 
Just to endorse what @mspath has written. I walked from SJPDP to Santiago in January last year. In many ways like stepping back 30 years. Which has both its good and its bad points. For me personally the solitude was a joy compared with the three-ring-circus of parts of the Frances in main season these days. But the price you pay for that is that there are longer stages and far fewer options for food, drink and accommodation. I do not use luggage transport anyway but that is not an option until Sarria in any case. One 32km day turned into a 42km day when a hospitalero did not respond to multiple phone calls and open up an albergue as we had arranged by phone earlier. A winter Camino can be rewarding but it is also more demanding.
 
I am just done with Sarria to Santiago over the holidays. Wore a merino wool long sleeve zip neck shirt and Duluth Flexpedition pants in the days with wool.socks and gortex mid height boots. Had my synthetic Thermoball jacket, light wool gloves, a wool buff, and a Turtlefur brand ear band. Had heavy wool tights, a long sleeved merino dress and a merino wool t-shirt as my evening and backup wear.

Agree, very few places to stop during the day's walk and it rained most days (in Galicia so to be expected). Glad to have my Altus poncho. Having a bag of walnuts or peanuts along with some cheese was also good. Also I carry instant cup of soup and instant coffee con leche packets. Holiday closures made it more difficult to shop or find an open restaurant or bar so the microwave or just some hot tap water can be your friend.

Great time to walk in the winter. I am from a very cold winter place in the US winter so the temperature was perfect for walking in Spain at just at or slightly above freezing most days. Glad for my light down sleeping bag at night though.
 
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I am on the Frances right now, reaching Ponferrada tomorrow. Weather is great at the moment. 32F first thing, up to 60 in the afternoon. Luckily I have no rain forecast at all. Obviously it cd be wet and much colder this time of year. The Camino is very empty. In the past two days I have seen one other peregrino. Most places are closed. In Rabanal everything is closed except one hostal and a tiny shop (I was her only peregrino today). It’s glorious! But planning accommodation carefully is required.
 
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