For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
I would add that be aware of the time of year you start the VLDP, the heat can be vicious in southern Spain in summer...so best to start in the Spring, ( April/May) or in the fall ( September/Oct). I have done both start times, spring and fall each have their pluses and minuses, but in both cases the weather was generally good temperature wise, though good rain gear, good footwear, and a good hat are essentials. Enjoy!The VdlP is a fantastic Camino and adventure! It is easy to walk, in terms of terrain: Very much flat, but especially at the first week there are a couple of days that can be very long +30 kms).
If you walk from Seville to Santiago, that will be ca. 1005 kms, approx. 42 - 45 days, avg. 20/25 kms/day.
The best advice is to go to Appstore (or Android, if that is your choce) and buy an app. I recommend the Wise Pilgrim app for La Plata.
The Camino is (mostly) very well marked, and with an app you can easily see if you are off-course.
Accomodation is no problem: There are albergues in all/most places, and by using the app, you will find distances, bars cafes, and places to stay (and much more). Install maps (app option) so you can use it offline.
Buen Camino!
Edit: Good idea to quit jobs and instead live a little... Now you can walk, eat, sleep. Repeat.
Buen Camino! I will be 2 weeks behind you and looking forward to following your posts. Enjoy!Hello,
Short introduction:
My wife (Mar) and I both quit our jobs in January 2022 to jump off the hamsterwheel of work, eat, sleep > repeatwith the idea of leaving our comfort zone and do things we 've never done before.
The plan of walking the Vía de la Plata only emerged around 6 weeks ago on the ferry from Tenerife to La Palma; we were on our way to a finca to participate in a voluntary project for a month with no plan after...
So here we are, no long planning done and no practice walks (although we have experience with multi-day hikes with full packs)
We're excited and a bit anxious about what to come.
When the mood and I-net connection allows I will write regular updates about our progress
Advise and feedback is always welcome
PS. Our family name is translated to Writer, hence the name. I'm not a writer by profession in any way
Looking forward to hearing lots from the Writers on the Vdlp!We have to adept to the for us weird lunch and dinner times in the south of Spain.
I will definitely try to put up posts as I walk. As I'm going solo I think/hope I'll have lots of time to post. One question Laurie (as you seem to have lots of experience with the VDLP) is I'm having trouble finding accommodation in Fuente de Cantos or Calzadilla de los Barros. I don't want to do that 47km? walk to Zafra in one day. I've tried emailing a couple albergues but have no replies yet. I ended up booking an extra night in Zafra as I can taxi there and then back in the morning to walk again, but I'd prefer not to have to do that. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I know I can just wing it but it being Holy Week it's likely to be busier. Gracias!!Looking forward to hearing lots from the Writers on the Vdlp!
I think you’re going to find that there is far less deviation from the Spanish mealtime hours in restaurants on the Vdlp. This is unlike the Camino Francés, as you probably know, where places typically serve three separate meals — regular customers lunch 2-4 or 2-5, pilgrim dinner around 6 or 7, and then regular dinner 8 or 9 and onward!
I’ve found that the Spanish meal hours work perfectly for me when I walk. I try to get to my destination by 3, shower and wash clothes and get into the restaurant before 4 or 4:30 where I can still have a menú del día. You just missed that by a smither in Itálica!
I am impressed that you described that stream crossing on the metal bar as “easy.” I once shimmied across a fallen tree trunk to get to the other side, and I actually think I would prefer that than having to walk across a wobbly metal bar. But then I probably have several decades on you.
Thanks for posting! Buen camino to you both, Laurie
I had the same problem to find a possible accomodation in Fuente de Calzadilla in second week of April. Had whatsapp contact with Casa Vicenta in Fuente some days ago, which worked perfect with quick reaction times from their side. They told me to contact them again some days before actual arrival date.I'm having trouble finding accommodation in Fuente de Cantos or Calzadilla de los Barros
I've tried emailing a couple albergues but have no replies yet
Had whatsapp contact with Casa Vicenta in Fuente some days ago,
Thank you Laurie for your reply. Yes I have started using what's app recently, but I was emailing prior to going over my accommodation one last time. I will try both of those pensions again with what's app now and wait for a response. Thanks again. I'm excited for this first VDLP as well as nervous going solo for the first time but I know things will work out.I think these two comments show a very common situation in Spain. WhatsApp contact is much more likely to get you results than email (and sometimes, it is even better than phone — for instance, Torre Vilariño on the Invierno has a WhatsApp number that they will never answer, but they respond by WhatsApp).
@maruska89, do you use WhatsApp? It is easy, it gives you a record of what you agreed upon with the owner, and most private accommodations use it. It is a part of the Facebook empire, but for many of us, its tremendous advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
Both Pensión Rodriguez in Calzadilla, and Casa Vicenta in Fuente are on WhatsApp. If you don’t use it or can’t figure it out, PM me and I’ll send a message on your behalf. But the bottom line is that I don’t think you should worry about finding accommodation!
Buen camino to all forum members who are lucky enough to be walking the Vdlp now!
I will try again. When are you starting your Camino?I had the same problem to find a possible accomodation in Fuente de Calzadilla in second week of April. Had whatsapp contact with Casa Vicenta in Fuente some days ago, which worked perfect with quick reaction times from their side. They told me to contact them again some days before actual arrival date.
Thank you for this info. Wow, what time of year was this? Glad you found the pear to sustain you. I will try again to book in Fuente and if not then Calzadilla. Buen future caminos!I hope you all have a great walk and enjoy this fabulous but at times challenging Camino. Mary, my memory of Fuente are after long hot day and somewhat confusing markings, the stretch in is without cover and it's a long time before you arrive. I was very grateful for a pear stolen from a Finca to give me enough energy to make it. There is a very wonderfully air conditioned albergue in Fuente but it has been plagued with problems and is rarely functioning these days. Town itself is very lovely and you can always ask a local cafe, generally locals are more then happy to help, even if it comes down to arranging taxi ride to a hotelier in a town near by.
Love the groovy outfits of the band!Day 3: Guillena - Castilblanco de los Arroyos
Rain was pouring down at night... Had a hard time falling asleep and woke up several times at night, climbing down for the toilet and later to eat to get my bloodsugar up again. I'm type 1 diabetic and this camino will have an effect on my sugar levels and medicine intake, unfortunately first it causes problems in the night. Mar slept even less, again, we have to adept to the rhythm of the new life.
The albuerge served it's purpose, and after breakfast we were suppose to leave at 8.30. Most pilgrims were long gone before.
Rainy morning but worst rain stopped around our departure. We brought food and water for the whole day. Very muddy hours in the olive fields. Caught up with several struggeling pilgrims. Struggled ourselves too but the rain stopped and the path got more rocky on the way.
It 's hard to take breaks when it' s windy amd cold, with rain in the air... But it's important to do. Again straightforward but the mud made it a bit tough.
As it's my birthday today we decided to call a hotel. Hotel Castillo blanco charges pilgrims a double room + breakfast for €40 which is a very good deal if you ask me. Its kinda old but it has charm and the hot shower was a blessing.
Last worth mentioning is the Asador Er tito Emi opposite to the gastation (and albuerge?) they were about to close the kitchen at 16h but turned back on the lights and served us hungry walkers 2 courses ( the lentilles soup was great!) and a beer for €8.- again a bargain, and the bartender was super nice.
Song of the day: MUD - dynamite
Hey Mr Writer - I have been trying to email Hotel Castillo Blanco for late April reservations. They answered once after a couple of weeks but our group changed & I emailed back for another room but haven't had an answer in 2 weeks. Do you have a phone number for them that you could share? Thanks! Buen Camino & feliz cumpleanos!Day 3: Guillena - Castilblanco de los Arroyos
Rain was pouring down at night... Had a hard time falling asleep and woke up several times at night, climbing down for the toilet and later to eat to get my bloodsugar up again. I'm type 1 diabetic and this camino will have an effect on my sugar levels and medicine intake, unfortunately first it causes problems in the night. Mar slept even less, again, we have to adept to the rhythm of the new life.
The albuerge served it's purpose, and after breakfast we were suppose to leave at 8.30. Most pilgrims were long gone before.
Rainy morning but worst rain stopped around our departure. We brought food and water for the whole day. Very muddy hours in the olive fields. Caught up with several struggeling pilgrims. Struggled ourselves too but the rain stopped and the path got more rocky on the way.
It 's hard to take breaks when it' s windy amd cold, with rain in the air... But it's important to do. Again straightforward but the mud made it a bit tough.
As it's my birthday today we decided to call a hotel. Hotel Castillo blanco charges pilgrims a double room + breakfast for €40 which is a very good deal if you ask me. Its kinda old but it has charm and the hot shower was a blessing.
Last worth mentioning is the Asador Er tito Emi opposite to the gastation (and albuerge?) they were about to close the kitchen at 16h but turned back on the lights and served us hungry walkers 2 courses ( the lentilles soup was great!) and a beer for €8.- again a bargain, and the bartender was super nice.
Song of the day: MUD - dynamite
Day 3: Guillena - Castilblanco de los Arroyos
Rain was pouring down at night... Had a hard time falling asleep and woke up several times at night, climbing down for the toilet and later to eat to get my bloodsugar up again. I'm type 1 diabetic and this camino will have an effect on my sugar levels and medicine intake, unfortunately first it causes problems in the night. Mar slept even less, again, we have to adept to the rhythm of the new life.
The albuerge served it's purpose, and after breakfast we were suppose to leave at 8.30. Most pilgrims were long gone before.
Rainy morning but worst rain stopped around our departure. We brought food and water for the whole day. Very muddy hours in the olive fields. Caught up with several struggeling pilgrims. Struggled ourselves too but the rain stopped and the path got more rocky on the way.
It 's hard to take breaks when it' s windy amd cold, with rain in the air... But it's important to do. Again straightforward but the mud made it a bit tough.
As it's my birthday today we decided to call a hotel. Hotel Castillo blanco charges pilgrims a double room + breakfast for €40 which is a very good deal if you ask me. Its kinda old but it has charm and the hot shower was a blessing.
Last worth mentioning is the Asador Er tito Emi opposite to the gastation (and albuerge?) they were about to close the kitchen at 16h but turned back on the lights and served us hungry walkers 2 courses ( the lentilles soup was great!) and a beer for €8.- again a bargain, and the bartender was super nice.
Song of the day: MUD - dynamite
Thanks for the number. I look forward to your future reports!Thank you all for the birthday wishes. It was one special day! My wife asked the previous days to my friends to sent me a video message while on the trail. That was super nice and gave me energy.
@hel&scott I had my most important music upbringing in the '90. But instead of moving on with the music in the zero' s and tens, I started enjoying older music more and more. But I will make more of an effort to look for recent songs for the song of the day.
@khiker9 the phone number of the hotel is on gronze.com a very usefull site with up to date information about accommodations. The number of this hotel is: +34955734523
@nycwalking gracias! Always nice to hear
Today was a long day. Tomorrow we do a shorty and I'll update.
enjoying your posts....I'll be about two weeks behind youDay 4: Castilblanco de los Arroyos - Almadén de la plata
This is the stage we were a bit worried about. Especially Mar was a bit anxious for the length of the stage, this is so much longer than she ever walked! (28km)
We could have breakfast in the hotel from 8.30. A bit late for our taste but we could be on the road at 9.00 giving us ample of time. Rain started just before our departure, we put on the poncho and left. A stop for the Supermercado and cajero took time and we finally left the village just before 10. Then the rain stopped
What to say about the route? yes 16km monotonous walking along the side of the tarmac. We both put on music and marched on. Then 13 km gravel road through corck-oak fields. Thick clouds above our head but no rain until the last steep ascent to Almadén de la plata. I was too lazy to put on the poncho so I got wet. We were very happy to arrive in the albergue. We made it. Without blisters or major discomfort. I'm super proud of Mar... She 'just' did it
We stayed it the Albegue vía de la plata and it was all that we could wish for. Clean, a well equipped kitchen, hot shower and a comfy matress. After a hearthy self-cooked meal and a few glasses of wine we fell in a deep sleep...
Song of the day: Stone Temple Pilots - Interstate love song
Great posts. I start April 21st. Worried about la k of municipal open and numbers as usual… do you just turn up at albergues or booking?enjoying your posts....I'll be about two weeks behind you
Maybe just walk and walk in as most Caminos aren’t really about booking it all up, makes it a very planned just a walk then.Thank you for this info. Wow, what time of year was this? Glad you found the pear to sustain you. I will try again to book in Fuente and if not then Calzadilla. Buen future caminos!
Thanks for the info about Fuente de Cantos. On gonze someone wrote that casa Vincente might be closed. I guess they are not...?I think these two comments show a very common situation in Spain. WhatsApp contact is much more likely to get you results than email (and sometimes, it is even better than phone —
Both Pensión Rodriguez in Calzadilla, and Casa Vicenta in Fuente are on WhatsApp. If you don’t use it or can’t figure it out, PM me and I’ll send a message on your behalf. But the bottom line is that I don’t think you should worry about finding accommodation!
Buen camino to all forum members who are lucky enough to be walking the Vdlp now!
Update: after using what's app i got replies from both accommodations and decided on Calzadilla only to be closer to Zafra the next day. I'm only doing one night there so hope it's enough to do a bit of sight seeing. Thanks for the heads up @peregrina2000 !I think these two comments show a very common situation in Spain. WhatsApp contact is much more likely to get you results than email (and sometimes, it is even better than phone — for instance, Torre Vilariño on the Invierno has a WhatsApp number that they will never answer, but they respond by WhatsApp).
@maruska89, do you use WhatsApp? It is easy, it gives you a record of what you agreed upon with the owner, and most private accommodations use it. It is a part of the Facebook empire, but for many of us, its tremendous advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
Both Pensión Rodriguez in Calzadilla, and Casa Vicenta in Fuente are on WhatsApp. If you don’t use it or can’t figure it out, PM me and I’ll send a message on your behalf. But the bottom line is that I don’t think you should worry about finding accommodation!
Buen camino to all forum members who are lucky enough to be walking the Vdlp now!
So, the day after we have unfortunately mixed feelings about the parochial albergue de Monesterio. The room, bathroom and kitchen are in great shape and well kept. But the hospitalero Miguel did not seem to enjoy recieving peregrinos. (we were only with 5) he wanted to shut the main door at 21h so you could not get in/out after. (the door upstairs has a code, downstairs a lock where we not got the key for) another couple was still having dinner and he seems stressed about that.And @peregrina2000 we are in the Parochial albergue in Monasterio and it's an absolute gem! Thanks for this info.
Yes any camino I’ve been on the municipal hostels have been pretty strict on leaving , pretty offen by 7 to 7.30 am in my experienceSo, the day after we have unfortunately mixed feelings about the parochial albergue de Monesterio. The room, bathroom and kitchen are in great shape and well kept. But the hospitalero Miguel did not seem to enjoy recieving peregrinos. (we were only with 5) he wanted to shut the main door at 21h so you could not get in/out after. (the door upstairs has a code, downstairs a lock where we not got the key for) another couple was still having dinner and he seems stressed about that.
The next morning we got up at 8:00 so as the other couple. He started complaining about us being late, but not in a direct way, more to himself...he did not communicate about a time to leave in the morning. He was compulsary cleaning with a long face and we felt even bothered using the bathroom while he was arould. We left hasty as his body language told us we were no longer welcome.
So is there an unwritten time to be gone from an albergue? Only once we were informed by a host that we were asked to be gone at 8.30 but that was the day before! We are new in the camino life and maybe don't know about this. An early rise makes sense when it's hot or a long day coming.... But otherwise...
Your far too relaxed!! You got to be already dressed by 5.30am or not even been undressed! Ruffled and rearranged your rucksack at least three times by 6am and head torch on ready to rush out the door to the next hostel! Ha haYes any camino I’ve been on the municipal hostels have been pretty strict on leaving , pretty offen by 7 to 7.30 am in my experience
Yes, you are unique as most pilgrims do not chose the VdlP as their first pilgrimage. I think the most popular first caminos are the Camino Frances followed by the Camino Portuguese. I agree that closing up at 9 p.m. is a too early especially if this was not communicated up front although there have been times when I have fallen asleep earlier.@J Willhaus
Thank you for your detailed reply. I hear you. We are not new in hostels /dorms. We have been in hostels, mountain huts, camps, shared tents etc. in the past. We are generally very considerate in shared spaces, and definately notice that around us as well, the peregrinos on the vía are considerate too and far from how it can be in a youth hostel in a big town.
We will be more pro-active with our questions and expectations in the future
/edit it only does not work if you want to close the place at 21h and restaurants only open at 20h30.
Bien camino! Where did you stay?Day 7: Monesterio - Fuente de Cantos
After leaving the albergue we got some food for the day, had a coffee and left Monesterio. It's the 'ham capital' of Spain but we did not bother getting a leg to carry with us... Our packs are heavy enough.
The camino carried on through fenced farmland with oak trees and cows. After about 10km we followed the concrete cubes with blue and yellow arrow sign. It turned out to be the mountainbike route. We made our day a bit longer with this detour.
Being in nature longer you start to notice differences where birds appear, they are all specialized to a type of fauna, field or trees. I will share some photo's that I took.
Closer to Fuente de Cantos the landscape changes. Rolling hills with green wheat fields gently waving in the wind. No trees make a beautiful wide panoramic view. The first pig farms appear, and then the smell... entering Fuente de Cantos did not make the smell any less, we even smell it in our room. We are unlucky with the direction of the wind I guess.
The last part was though... Legs and feet are a bit beaten and we question our fitness; were we too positive yesterday? Are our bags too heavy with stuff we don't use or may not be essential? (walking sticks, powerbank, detergent, e-reader, flip-flops, emergency food, razor+foam, medic kit, sleeping bag, little paper notebook, wise pilgrim guide, optical camera)
We'll see about that in the near future...
Song of the day: Lynyrd Skynyrd - That smell
Yes, you can leave some things behind for another pilgrim that you no longer want in the donation box at the albergue and/or maybe post some things ahead through the Correos in Santiago where they can be held for you. Ivar has a service where your items can also be sent and held until you arrive. You do have to find an open post office (or call DHL for pickup) first though.Day 7: Monesterio - Fuente de Cantos
After leaving the albergue we got some food for the day, had a coffee and left Monesterio. It's the 'ham capital' of Spain but we did not bother getting a leg to carry with us... Our packs are heavy enough.
The camino carried on through fenced farmland with oak trees and cows. After about 10km we followed the concrete cubes with blue and yellow arrow sign. It turned out to be the mountainbike route. We made our day a bit longer with this detour.
Being in nature longer you start to notice differences where birds appear, they are all specialized to a type of fauna, field or trees. I will share some photo's that I took.
Closer to Fuente de Cantos the landscape changes. Rolling hills with green wheat fields gently waving in the wind. No trees make a beautiful wide panoramic view. The first pig farms appear, and then the smell... entering Fuente de Cantos did not make the smell any less, we even smell it in our room. We are unlucky with the direction of the wind I guess.
The last part was though... Legs and feet are a bit beaten and we question our fitness; were we too positive yesterday? Are our bags too heavy with stuff we don't use or may not be essential? (walking sticks, powerbank, detergent, e-reader, flip-flops, emergency food, razor+foam, medic kit, sleeping bag, little paper notebook, wise pilgrim guide, optical camera)
We'll see about that in the near future...
Song of the day: Lynyrd Skynyrd - That smell
Song of the day: Lynyrd Skynyrd - That smell
great photos.. thanks! Hope to see these little guys very soon! Happy trails to you.Birds of the Vía de la plata part 1
View attachment 121519View attachment 121520View attachment 121521
Both. If there are only a few lodging options I try to book ahead.Great posts. I start April 21st. Worried about la k of municipal open and numbers as usual… do you just turn up at albergues or booking?
Hello Ian, Oh where did you hear that it’s unusually busy please?I will be a few weeks behind you but it sounds like it may be advisable to book ahead for albergues in some places. It seems that the Via is unusually busy.
It's not so busy actually... There were not only pilgrims in Villafranca and the albergue is quite small.I will be a few weeks behind you but it sounds like it may be advisable to book ahead for albergues in some places. It seems that the Via is unusually busy.
@MrWr1TeR is doing the most thorough research, and as soon as possible!If you havn't done any Via de la Plata research, that would be a good thing to look at as soon as possible.
Enjoying your posts! As I'm about to leave soon I'm having a hard time deciding on how much to bring for the cold mornings/nights. I'm not sure about my puffy jacket,,, but know if I don't bring it I'll be needing it. What do you have for layers/warm clothing?Day 8: Fuente de Cantos - Zafra
We stayed in Rural hotel la Fábrica. There were not many options in Fuente de Cantos and when we stood in front of Pensión Vicenta we were a bit afraid of the noise of the street in front of it. So we went to the hotel, the building is cool and so is the interior. We got the matrimonial room for 45€. Most peregrinos stayed in La Fábrica as we noticed.
The next day we heard from another pilgrim Vicenta was fine as well.
Gronze writes 24,2 km to Zafra. Our tracking said 26,9 km when we arrived. We noticed that every day the etape is a few km's longer than the website says.
Good to keep that in mind.
There are a few pueblos on this stretch and we did short breaks there for a coffee or other refreshment. The landscape is not much different than the days before. Walking basically flat all day is taking it's toll on our feet. Today some blisters developed on my toes and Mar got very painfull feet... This is something different than a multi-day hike on mountainious tracks... The same parts of your feet take all the pressure.
We need a day of rest and booked 2 nights in Zafra, Hostal Carmen offers rooms for €50. Not the cheapest but we need some comfort. The rooms are heated and that's not everwhere the case, it's unusually cold for the time of year with night temperatures of 5 degrees Celcius. Most of the places we stayed so far had no heating in the room and communal spaces.
We had a nice dinner together with a pilgrim from the US who we met frequently from the second day and had the same pace as us. He continued this morning.
Song of the day: The war on drugs - Under the pressure
haha.. I wrote this a couple days ago but forgot to hit "post reply"Enjoying your posts! As I'm about to leave soon I'm having a hard time deciding on how much to bring for the cold mornings/nights. I'm not sure about my puffy jacket,,, but know if I don't bring it I'll be needing it. What do you have for layers/warm clothing?
Last days it was pretty cold. I had a t-shirt, vest and jacket on while walking the first hours. I also expect some cold and windy days in Galicia so I guess it's wise to bring a warm jacket.Enjoying your posts! As I'm about to leave soon I'm having a hard time deciding on how much to bring for the cold mornings/nights. I'm not sure about my puffy jacket,,, but know if I don't bring it I'll be needing it. What do you have for layers/warm clothing?
Thanks..I'll keep my puffy layer!Last days it was pretty cold. I had a t-shirt, vest and jacket on while walking the first hours. I also expect some cold and windy days in Galicia so I guess it's wise to bring a warm jacket.
Slightly off subject but have you used or noticed many ATMs on route? PleaseDay 11: Torremejía - Mérida
Short stage to the next bigger town of Mérida. Unfortunately we had little sleep last night. A friendly Swedish man of respectable age was a snoring machine at night. Sure, you should tolerate some sleeping noises in a dorm, but this was unbearable. For all of us.
Mar told him politely this morning that you cán do something about it (and should) . I sleep with a mouth piece (bracket) since a few years because as I age I started snoring... and I don't want to be thát guy in the dorm
The route was short (17km) and only a bit more exciting than last stages although I spotted some nice rare birds. We did not properly recover due to lack of sleep and were happy to arrive in Mérida.
We called quite a few hostals/hotels in Mérida this morning. I recommend to do so, as prices go up in the weekends (suddenly a room was €100 instead of 45 as stated at Gronze) and the albergue only allows a 1 night stay.
Aras hostal charged a pilgrim price for €45 per night and is convenient located. You don't need to detour over the Roman bridge, you can climb the wall of the first bridge you encounter and that saves you 20 minutes.
Song of the day: Motörhead - Mean Machine
Yes, Spain has most ATMs in Europe, but you pay for a withdraw, and every bank charges a different amount, from €1 to €5Slightly off subject but have you used or noticed many ATMs on route? Please
Great read…. The mix ups are funny, maybe not for your stomach! Would you mind putting the price you are paying for the albergues please, I think you did on some. Thank you helpful .Day 13: Aljucén - Cruce de las Herrerias (18 km)
Note to self: always check if you have really understand what you are told!
The hospitaleria in the bar yesterday explained something about the desayuno and 8 o'clock. We said 'sí' assuming we could have breakfast from 8am.
We heard too late that we had to buy breakfast that evening because they were closed the next day. Also the little tienda in the village was closed...
Luckely we had some coffee/tea, cookies and chocolate to get us going this morning and some energy bars for on the way. Make sure you have some extra food in your bag for such occations.
Over night my feet had a miracolous recovery. I felt good and strong. Mar on the other hand had painfull feet before we even started. It rained the whole day and it was very cold. We marched through a beautiful nature park but couldn't really enjoy it. We just did 18km to the detour to Hostal Olivos. That was enough for the day.
We had to make a decision. Mar's shoes aren't good enough and we asked my sister to sent other shoes from the Netherlands to Cáseres. Shoes where she knows she walks good on. A hotel in Cáseres is very coöperative and was willing to recieve them. Let's hope this will make a difference on the rest of the camino... we have long stages ahead.
Our mood was down. But in the little bar we met some very nice peregrinos from UK @Tandem Graham , Italia and France who made us forget about our struggles.
We talked in 4 different languages and ended the dinner together with wise words: 'it does not matter if you don't speak a language well, as long as you want to understand'
Song of the day: Paolo Nutini - New Shoes
Nice!Highlight were the bee-eaters hanging around a little lake just before casas de Don Antonio.
Love the bird pics also! Thanks for keeping us posted.Birds of the Vía de la plata part 2
View attachment 122218
View attachment 122219
View attachment 122220
Soo good thank youLove the bird pics also! Thanks for keeping us posted.
A long walk after all! Interesting you say municipal as in the Gerald Kelly book it only mentions albergue Turistico de Galisteo private 15 euro to the right of the bar.Day 16: Cáseres - Grimaldo (27 km)
We were forced to stay a day more in Cáceres because the super fast and expensive Express service of DHL did not deliver in time. That was a bit frustrating but Cáseras is a nice town to get stuck in. You can visit the Cathedral de Santa Maria and let your credential stamped. Entrance is free of charge for pilgrims.
The stages from Cáseres are a bit messy with closed albergues, very long days and detours. The thorough reader probably noticed that it's not possible to walk in one day to Grimaldo. We cheated.
We took a taxi to Viaducto del Almonte and proceeded from there. With this we avoided a rainy morning and a very long day. When in Cañaveral we called the only place open in Grimaldo (la posada) but to our surprise they were fully booked. That forced to change our plan and we walked in the albergue of Cañaveral. Also full! What is going on? Holiday week because of Semana Santa? Suddenly loads of people on the road.
The good man told us that the municipal albergue in Grimaldo was actually open and we took a gamble and continued.
We found the albergue in Grimaldo open and they had a few beds left. It's a donativo and it's quite small. There is a bar next door where you get your stamp.
There is a small kitchen with only a microwave. Shower was hot. Only one toilet with a leaking reservoir.
Song of the day: Red Hot Chili Peppers - Slow Cheetah
There are 2 places to stay in Grimaldo. La Posada where I heard very good stories about (but was full) and Albergue de peregrinos de Grimaldo witch just re-opened last week. It's a donativo, don't think it's managed by the municipal.A long walk after all! Interesting you say municipal as in the Gerald Kelly book it only mentions albergue Turistico de Galisteo private 15 euro to the right of the bar.
Yes, that can fill up small albergues pretty fast!Also full! What is going on? Holiday week because of Semana Santa?
I like to leave super early. I usually get something to eat to carry with me. Personally toast and juice is not a breakfast for me and makes my blood sugar soar so I carry cheese, tuna, ham, yogurt or or hardboiled eggs and maybe fruit or or a breakfast bar. I stop for coffee later if there is a place. If there is not a place those who are with me suffer my bad mood until I find some...on the VdlP, that could be a long day...Day 18: Carcaboso - Oliva de Placencia (21 km)
Albergue Señora Elena was fine for €13 we had a single bed. It was fully booked. There is a kitchen to use, and a small sundeck to wash and hang your clothes. They have a supermarket next door and several bars to eat in the village. The caretaker was a bit peculiar not in a bad way. We had nice chats with other peregrinos but went to bed early.
Yes! After a coffee and tostada in a bar we managed to be on the road quite a bit before 9Am. We slowly get into the peregrino rhythmwe see lot's of walkers leave without breakfast... How do they do that? We need some food in our stomach before we start.
We decided to split this stage, 39 km is too much for us. There are some options to shorten:
Call hostal Asturias they pick you up from the Roman Arc site and drop you off the next day at the camino 11km from Aldeanueva or walk extra km to Oliva de Placencia and spent the night there. We did the last... off the camino it's 6km walking next to a road. We got there right before heavy rains.
The albergue is very rustic and well kept with a friendly hospitaleria. Beds were very good and the kitchen great. We finally cooked a meal ourselves again.The little tienda in the village is super cute. The only bar in town was closed. We payed €20 per bed in a 4bed dorm. Shower was hot. No towels provided.
Day 19: Oliva de Placencia - Aldeanueva (29 km)
This was a weird day. There was a lot of rain in the forcast and we left with gray overcast and expected to get wet. After an hour it started to rain but when we were packed in ponchos it stopped again.
We passed the Roman arc site Cáparra and joined the camino again. Sun came through and we walked in shirts. Then rain again, sun, cold wind, sun, rain... etc so the whole day we were busy putting on layers and then taking them off again. Some crossings of streams were a bit challenging (but doable) with stepping stones missing. But when you go under the highway we could not follow the camino because the stream was too strong with missing stepping stones, but a small detour on the N630 made it no issue. We decided to stay on the N630 to skip a few km.
Tired we walked into Aldeanueva at 16.30. We stay in hostal Montesol. A typical Spanish roadhouse with a messy bar, tiles on the walls, a yelling TV and a broken toilet. The room is fine though, pergrino price was €35. Waiting for dinner.
Song of the days: Greta van Fleet - My way soon
Ah yes, the infamous uni-pillow...just when you get comfortable and doze off, your partner jerks it out from under your head...Can I complain a little about some typical Spanish things I'm a bit annoyed of? I think you can relate to some?
- abscence of vegetables
- wobbly tables
- screaming TV in a bar
- one long pillow on a double bed
- broken toilet and/or shower head
- tostada's
- loud men
- dirty, smelly bar
- mini thin paper napkins
- noisy gambling machines
- undisciplined dogs
Yeah, snorers can be an issue. After my first Camino in 2012, the Frances, & several albergues with no sleep, we switched to albergues with private rooms or small hotels. On all my caminos since, I only stay in the “famous” albergues (& yes I know there are wonderful ones every where) or if that is the only option available. Ear plugs don’t work for me either.Day 21: La calzada de Béjar - Fuenterroble (22 km)
The village was quiet in the morning as we left the albergue early. We had a bad night with 3 loud snoring men around us,we were tired and grumpy. Luckely the bar served breakfast and after 2 cups of coffee the mood lifted slightly. How do you deal with snoring men? Earplugs were not sufficiënt...
More mountanious landscape, different trees, so different birds. I managed to take some nice shots. It was quite cold, but beautiful clear sky, again we could see the snowy peaks in the distance.
We called ahead to avoid the same group of noisy night stalkers in the next albergue... We found a room in a casa in Fuenterroble. We have a strong suspicion that this house is not much used for peregrinos. Funny... It's like being back in grandma's house. A 'slightly' dated interior to put it mildly.
Tired we sat in the sun in front of the house watching the villagers walk their evening round. Tomorrow a long day to Morille planned.
Song of the day: Madness - Our house
A week ago we booked a hotel (not in the pilgrim list) and glad we booked 3 nights. We need some rest and recoveryit's also Mar's birthday today...
Please do the Sanabrés..!! I’m running that Way..!!Day 23: Morille - Salamanca (20 km)
This shorter stage was more challenging than we expected. It was hot and not much shade. You mostly walk on gravel roads through farm fields. Entering Salamanca took much longer than expected and we both had no energy this day. Last 2h I developed shin pain and a nasty blister under my left foot.
The sun was beating on our head, no wind.
From the ugly suburbs you suddenly enter the old town over a Roman bridge and that was quite spectacular.
It's easter weekend and the final days of Semana Santa. Lot's of processions in town and we witnessed one yesterday... A very impressive happening. A week ago we booked a hotel (not in the pilgrim list) and glad we booked 3 nights. We need some rest and recoveryit's also Mar's birthday today... We had breakfast with a big piece of chocolate cake. Yes! No tostada.
To be continued...
Song of the days: America - horse with no name
You'll find it a shocker after coming off the Via de la Plata to the Frances! You'll have to let us know which you like the best.Day 26: Zamora - Montamarta (20 km)
Zamora is a nice town with a historic Roman center. After the long walk we managed to squeeze some more energy and walked to the cathedral to pay it a visit and get another sello. After we met with some other peregrino's to have a meal together we went to bed early and fell in a deep sleep.
We stayed in hostal Chiqui for €45 for a double. Very new and comfortable. The stage today wasn't very excited but not bad either we had a stop in Roales del pan for a drink and a bocadillo.
We went to the Albergue de peregrinos de Montamarta, it's a few hundred meters before the village. Lots of effort was taken to upgrade the place. Fresh paint, new furniture, adequate kitchen and the place was clean. €5 is a very good value for what you get. Unfortunately the heating was shut off and the night was very cold.
Day 27: Montamarta - Granja de Moreruela (25 km)
Just a very wet and kind of miserable day. The camino winds around the highway on gravel roads. We had heavy rains for most of the day. We did not talk much.
Lot of time to reflect. Did your family back home ever ask you why you walk the Camino? Neither of our familiy did, it's maybe hard to comprehend what we are doing. At leat I feel a bit sad that my family shows very little interest.
It's a milestone today. We started the 22 of March so that's means we are a month in. Mar never expected to get this far and today I told her again that I'm proud or her... and of us of course.
We arrived in Granja de moreruela and had a warm shower in the albergue. You register and pay €6 in the bar. Time to make a big decision... Sanabres or Frances. We won't flip a coin. As this is our very first camino we decided to take the route to the Frances to experience a bit more of the busy camino life.
Song of the day: Garberage - I'm only happy when it rains
It was the same for our family and friends.Lot of time to reflect. Did your family back home ever ask you why you walk the Camino? Neither of our familiy did, it's maybe hard to comprehend what we are doing. At leat I feel a bit sad that my family shows very little interest.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?