to walk in france or spain

[jjarnold]

Hi fellow pelegrinos, Having completed the classic camino frances (in a rather leisurely 40 days) in 2008, i am planning my next camino but am undecided between the via de la plata or one of the routes in France. Any advice about the pros and cons of walking in spain vs France? How does the experience compare? Thanks Jennifer

 

[dustytrack]

Hi

I did both the Via Podiensis and the Via Frances last year. You may find my blog useful too at http://www.dustytrack.com There is some text of my experiences as well as tips and photographs.

The French part from Le Puy is very different but very enjoyable too!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

A walk in France is a walk with the French. A walk in Spain is a walk with other pilgrims.

 

[newfydog]

A walk in France is a walk with the French. A walk in Spain is a walk with other pilgrims.

I think that is pretty accurate, though the mix of religious vs. hiker seems about the same, they just are predominantly local. I might add that the French were very pleased to have these odd Americans who knew about the wonderful routes in France. We were treated like celebrities in many places.

France is more expensive, but I'd have to say it is my favorite country out of the five in which we have done pilgrimages.

 

[Kitsambler]

The walkers I encountered in September from Le Puy to Moissac were 80% French, 15% Canadians, 5% Swiss or German. No British and I was the only American. The French - walkers, innkeepers, shopkeepers - were all warmly hospitable. As an American, I was received with cheerful enthusiasm.

During my 3-week walk, I was in the company of walkers who spoke some French the first and third weeks. I found the week without a French-speaker to be more challenging (I don't speak French, but I got to the point I could at least pronounce the phrasebook so as to be understood. Whereupon many non-French responded, "Do you speak English?")

The lodgings are smaller, most are privately operated (so you can make reservations), demi-pension is offered in the majority of facilities. The route is well marked, but not as frequently marked as in Spain (and all the GR routes in France use the same markings, so it is possible to be on a marked track not the one you quite intended ...)

If you walk in France, you can start and end in Paris. You get weeks of guilt-free French cooking. It is definitely a different experience from Spain. Why don't you find out for yourself?

 

[Anna-Marie]

The walkers I encountered in September from Le Puy to Moissac were 80% French, 15% Canadians, 5% Swiss or German. No British and I was the only American. The French - walkers, innkeepers, shopkeepers - were all warmly hospitable. As an American, I was received with cheerful enthusiasm.

I found that, too, except I met three Americans and at least one British woman--and the Canadians (apart from myself and one other) were French Canadians. There were very few English-as-a-first-language speakers, which could get exhausting and a little lonely since my French is good enough to get by, but I can't follow group conversations.

But I loved it. The French people I met--pilgrims and locals--were without exception helpful and kind. And it was definitely a good way to improve my French.

I wrote a long blog post about the differences between the Camino Francés and the Chemin du Puy that you might find helpful. Won't be able to comment on the Via de la Plata until later this year.

Bon chemin!

Anna-Marie

 

[dustytrack]

Anna-Marie Your post is a great summary of the differences I found between the two routes. While there were less 'pilgrims' in France, the welcome and support I found was at times better than in Spain. I agree with the rubbish lying around. Much cleaner in France, and I met many Spaniards who were also upset about the number of empty plastic bottles in Spain. The problem is not just in Spain and France however, its world-wide. I hate plastic bottles!! If you do either route please be tidy and not spoil it for everyone!!!! Its only a few who do.

 

[ranthr]

Hi JJarnold!
I walked from Le Puy autumn 2009 to Santiago after doing the Frances twice in 2005 and 2007. This route through France cannot be compared to that in Spain. Very different. More expensive, often have to book a place to sleep and not like Spain with all the refugios. Not many places to buy food, important to ask for semi-pension at the gites because that might be the only place to get a dinner or any other food. Much ups and downs on hills, beautiful countryside and villages for the first two weeks, then a lot of walking with no other options than maizeacres at each side of the road for days. Must mention that I walked there August to September. There were blackberrybushes with ripe berries some of the stretches but at the last part the cornacres made me down. Less garbage than in Spain. Lot of walking along asfaltroad. As a nonfrenchspeaking I managed ok because I was prepared of the communication problem, but most of the people along the road were French groups walking for a week, besides some Canadians and a few people from other countries. I went some days without meeting anybody along the route. At the end of my 34 days in France I was happy when I crossed the border, but shocked when I met the 200 peregrinos in Roncesvalles. Now 15 months later I start thinking of another chemin in France some time in the future as after finishing my first camino.But first I will walk the Plata this spring.
Buen camino whatever you choose.
Ranthr

 

[Deleted member 3000]

On the Vezelay route last fall, in one place, my brother and I were the second and third Americans in six years. Some places we were the first Americans ever. At one municipal gite, we were the first pilgrims of any sort in over a month. The churches and chapels are open in France, and the French pilgrims enter and "pray" (for the most part). The differences between France and Spain are greater than the similarities, and "different" is good for both.

 

[jl]

I have walked 3 Caminos - from Toulouse in 2005, Le puy in 2007 and Troyes (north of Vezelay) in 2009, with each one ending in Santiago. In 2005 it was an accident that I began in France, but from then on it was deliberately planned. I found that I could not decide in which country to walk and so I did both!

Each of my Caminos have begun in the summer and so the French leg has always been hot, very hot in some cases! But why can't I decide you ask - there is a "softness"about France, a gentleness, and a green-ness which is very striking for one who comes from the driest state in the driest continent! There is a warmth among the people, a generosity about them and there is a sense of disbelief that someone would bother to come so far to make a pilgrimage through their land. The Churches are usually open and their simplicity makes them a beautiful place of peace and refuge.

Now Spain on the other hand is loud, austere in its greyness, it is "burnt" from the heat and yet has an energy and vibrancy about it. The people are extraordinarily friendly and cheerful and constantly delight me with the way in which they promenade each night - with everyone looking after each other - young or old. It is worth walking in Spain just to see the evening promenade, which, even in the smallest village, takes place.

A walk in France is a walk with the French. A walk in Spain is a walk with other pilgrims.

but a walk in France (especially on the Voie de Vezelay) is a time to stretch you from your comfort zone, and a chance to have time to yourself - to think, to plan, and to just "be", something that many of us don't get much of these days.

Cheers, Janet

 

[jjarnold]

THank you to all who have shared with me your thoughts - i will explore the blogs and accounts of those who gave links. Luckily i speak both French and Spanish - i had wondered whether the chemin in France would be, without the pilgrims, more of a 'hike' or tramp rather than a pilgrimage - although not particularly religious, i found the camino spiritual in that most of the people i met shared to some extent the aim of taking the time to looking within themselves and their connection to the world, and were open to others in a way uncommon when we are all busy in our lives. I still have 12 months to decide, although must plan the appropriate time off work, which might be different departure time for France, or Spain. cheers to all, Jennifer

 

[AJ]

I have walked in Spain more than France. I walked the Voie de Vezelay last year, starting early May.

I agree with Janet's comments.

They are different, both are good. The food is better in France. France is more expensive. I find Spain more vibrant. Both are friendly.

I plan to do more in both!