LIVE from the Camino Traffic on the Francés

[mike mcbroom]

We are near Puente la Riena coming from SJPD.

Very light number of Pilgrams and plenty of beds available.

 

[Former member 49149]

From my perch at Zabaldika, I can agree with you. Early in the morning I have a spot where I sit, and can see many of the pilgrims coming from Zubiri skirting the field that leads to the area de descanso. I am not really sure why so few take the trouble to climb the short but sharp hill to the church. Perhaps they don't have it in their guide? The next climb is longer, and meets up with the path from Zabaldika church and albergue. Then some need shade, so opt for the tree-lined river path leading to Huarte instead of to Trinidad de Arre. Most pilgrims looking for a bed come from Roncesvalles, so they don't really get here till after the albergue opens at 2.30. Having said that, some appear before ten a.m, see the place and decide: this is for me, and stop here. There is nothing here except a beautiful location! A welcome of course...
The numbers vary, last night there were only two. Numbers range from two or three to the max, 18. What I hear from pilgrims echoes what you say, Mike. No need to panic.

 

[hawkeyepierce]

I agree. I’m sitting at a cafe in Ventosa. Traffic since SJPDP has not been heavy and beds have been plentiful. I have yet to be in a dorm room that was even half full.

 

[TinaPEI]

Oh Zabaldika was one of my favourites in 2016. Are you volunteering there?

 

[Former member 49149]

Oh Zabaldika was one of my favourites in 2016. Are you volunteering there?

In a sense, yes. Helping the sisters.

 

[Andrea Mayfield]

From my perch at Zabaldika, I can agree with you. Early in the morning I have a spot where I sit, and can see many of the pilgrims coming from Zubiri skirting the field that leads to the area de descanso. I am not really sure why so few take the trouble to climb the short but sharp hill to the church. Perhaps they don't have it in their guide? The next climb is longer, and meets up with the path from Zabaldika church and albergue. Then some need shade, so opt for the tree-lined river path leading to Huarte instead of to Trinidad de Arre. Most pilgrims looking for a bed come from Roncesvalles, so they don't really get here till after the albergue opens at 2.30. Having said that, some appear before ten a.m, see the place and decide: this is for me, and stop here. There is nothing here except a beautiful location! A welcome of course...
The numbers vary, last night there were only two. Numbers range from two or three to the max, 18. What I hear from pilgrims echoes what you say, Mike. No need to panic.

I stayed at Zabaldika in 2015. A lovely retreat regardless of that steep final climb!!

 

[PFarnsworth]

We’re in Palas de Rei and ever since Sarria beds have been extremely difficult to find. Municipales don’t accept reservations so that’s always the safety net. We’ve ended up having to reserve hostales a few times in order to find open spaces, but are now booked through to Santiago. Before Sarria we found beds in albergues easily every day without reservations.

 

[trecile]

We are near Puente la Riena coming from SJPD.

Very light number of Pilgrams and plenty of beds available.

I'd say that's typical for the Francés in the summer months until you get to Galicia.

 

[J Willhaus]

We’re in Palas de Rei and ever since Sarria beds have been extremely difficult to find. Municipales don’t accept reservations so that’s always the safety net. We’ve ended up having to reserve hostales a few times in order to find open spaces, but are now booked through to Santiago. Before Sarria we found beds in albergues easily every day without reservations.

Yes, it is August so many Spaniards and other Europeans will be having their vacations. Many choose to walk a Camino at this time and the last 100 km fits right into the time allotted for vacation.

 

[hawkeyepierce]

When do the post-Sarria summer crowds usually die down? At the pace I’m going I think I’ll reach Sarria about Sept 1.

 

[trecile]

When do the post-Sarria summer crowds usually die down? At the pace I’m going I think I’ll reach Sarria about Sept 1.

I'm not positive, but September 1st is probably the beginning of the slowdown of pilgrims who start in Sarria.

 

[mvanert]

From my perch at Zabaldika, I can agree with you. Early in the morning I have a spot where I sit, and can see many of the pilgrims coming from Zubiri skirting the field that leads to the area de descanso. I am not really sure why so few take the trouble to climb the short but sharp hill to the church. Perhaps they don't have it in their guide? The next climb is longer, and meets up with the path from Zabaldika church and albergue. Then some need shade, so opt for the tree-lined river path leading to Huarte instead of to Trinidad de Arre. Most pilgrims looking for a bed come from Roncesvalles, so they don't really get here till after the albergue opens at 2.30. Having said that, some appear before ten a.m, see the place and decide: this is for me, and stop here. There is nothing here except a beautiful location! A welcome of course...
The numbers vary, last night there were only two. Numbers range from two or three to the max, 18. What I hear from pilgrims echoes what you say, Mike. No need to panic.

Zabaldika was one of the highlights of my 2018 Camino, a wonderful place!

 

[Former member 49149]

Today I came to open the church at ten to ten and only now have said buen camino to the latest group who climbed the hill! I am glad they went on as they were tempted to stay but had sent on their bags so that would not have been very nice. Incidentally, the Jacotrans driver told me they collect and deliver from donativos, just in case anyone needs to know. Here, bags are accepted but that does not assure a bed. You can get a bed if you are in the first 18 pilgrims who want to stop here.

 

[geraldkelly]

Sounds like a typical Camino summer, Looking forward to joining it in a few days!

 

[Lexicos]

We are near Puente la Riena coming from SJPD.

Very light number of Pilgrams and plenty of beds available.

Thanks for the post and up to date information Mike. It’s good to know.

 

[lvf]

We are near Puente la Riena coming from SJPD.

Very light number of Pilgrams and plenty of beds available.

My husband and I will begin our Camino from SJPP September 15. We’ll be sleeping at Orisson our first night. We did the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon last March. We are so excited to get our hiking boots on the dirt again! Thanks for the live updates from the Camino. We read them every day!

 

[LauraL]

I am on the Camino now, currently in Astorga. My experience so far has generally been as reported above, plenty of beds everywhere - except the other day at Mansilla de las Mulas. Apparently the municipal albergue is closed, and the good private albergue, Gaia, gets booked out. I didn't try the other albergue due to poor reviews. I walked on to the next village.

 

[LuisaR]

I am on the Camino now, currently in Astorga. My experience so far has generally been as reported above, plenty of beds everywhere - except the other day at Mansilla de las Mulas. Apparently the municipal albergue is closed, and the good private albergue, Gaia, gets booked out. I didn't try the other albergue due to poor reviews. I walked on to the next village.

Exactly the same happened when I was there a few days ago! A friend who was a day ahead of me warned me that some pilgrims couldn’t get rooms, so I booked La Pension de Blanca, which was absolutely fine.

 

[GailGwyn]

From my perch at Zabaldika, I can agree with you. Early in the morning I have a spot where I sit, and can see many of the pilgrims coming from Zubiri skirting the field that leads to the area de descanso. I am not really sure why so few take the trouble to climb the short but sharp hill to the church. Perhaps they don't have it in their guide? The next climb is longer, and meets up with the path from Zabaldika church and albergue. Then some need shade, so opt for the tree-lined river path leading to Huarte instead of to Trinidad de Arre. Most pilgrims looking for a bed come from Roncesvalles, so they don't really get here till after the albergue opens at 2.30. Having said that, some appear before ten a.m, see the place and decide: this is for me, and stop here. There is nothing here except a beautiful location! A welcome of course...
The numbers vary, last night there were only two. Numbers range from two or three to the max, 18. What I hear from pilgrims echoes what you say, Mike. No need to panic.

I was sad not to be able to stay at Zabaldika in early May this year. Last time I walked the Camino Frances, in 2019, someone told me about Zabaldika. We visited (as we did this year), but didn't realise one could stay, and we'd booked for Zubiri anyway. This year, I know Zabaldika didn't open the albergue until July due to staffing problems. Ah well.... maybe next time

 

[hueppi]

I just talked to Casa Paderborn: If you arrive early in the day, you have best chances to find a bed.
They don't take reservations. It's walk-in only.
But the passed couple of days they still had capacity to host pilgrims.

 

[trecile]

I just talked to Casa Paderborn: If you arrive early in the day, you have best chances to find a bed.
They don't take reservations. It's walk-in only.

I walked with a woman who stayed at Paderborn during San Fermin when it was one of the only albergues open.