Trondheim (Nidaros) to Santiago de Compostela

D

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After Argenton-sur-Creuse, there is a gite at Le Pechereau that I highly recommend. It is in a park building and also has group facilities. The office has the key to the gite. There is a nice kitchen, but no food. Stop at the supermarche, a Carrefour I think, after leaving Argenton. Bear right onto D-48 after passing under the railroad tracks, or you might miss it. Bear left onto Rue du Chemin Vert when you see the store, and follow it to Le Pechereau.

Bon chemin.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

giorgio

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Feb 25, 2009
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CF(2000), Puy (03), VDLP(04), Arles(05), Paris/London(06), Norte(07),Vezelay(09), Levante(10),Madrid(13),CF(15),CF(16)
Hallo LK
That's the view from the gite....
the Mairie office is in this Castle ,where you can get the gite's key....
Buon Cammino
Giorgio
 

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lovingkindness

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Day 253 leaving Issoudun

a little note.....my life has changed drastically. I find that without my little PC I can hardly express myself. I feel gagged. It is extremely difficult to process photos and capture thought using a public computer with French software. Every day, now, I journal using a blotchy black pen and notebook but my writing speed is only 10 words a minute, 1000 times slower than thought. By the time I,ve written a single line all the lovely words that crave expression have sped across my brain, rearranged themselves then dissappeared. So, I am left tense and upset because I really do want to capture this grand adventure as it happens, to share it in 'the now'.
a plus tard
- Lovingkindness
 

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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-

ksam

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LK...happy to hear from you and completely understanding about the difficulty of switching from using the tips of your fingers, dancing across the keyboard...to dragging the tip of a pen across the dry surface of the paper. Ouch. Although, perhaps that to is a lesson that we need to learn...just speaking for myself. It's so easy to let the words flow on a keypad. Maybe, at least for me, slowing and having to place each word more carefully will teach something too? Dunno, but something I will have to give some thought to. Kind of a Camino speed for writting???

Buen Camino! Karin
 
D

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That AZERTY instead of QWERTY keyboard is a real killer, I agree! I revert to two finger typing in France. It is slower, but results in fewer typographic errors.

Keep up with the fantastic photos, they are very interesting.
 

lovingkindness

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AZERTY not QUERTY
....and that's not the only problem. En France some public internet spaces will not allow the use of USB sticks nor will they pander to their users need for cyber-socialisiation by allowing FACEBOOK sessions. And when one finally stumbles upon a truelly hospitable cybercafe or connecting place the computer software is minus all the familiar little icons ....

I am now practicing Le Detachment. I have added it to Le Silence , La Tranquilitè and Le Non-response to all things irritating and Provocative.

-sempre/always trying to be Lovingkindness
 

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

KiwiNomad06

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Oh lk, a pav with Kiwifruit on the top no less..... what an amazing Madame you stayed with! I can see from the green leaves on the trees that spring is advancing quickly in this part of France. I feel quite 'homesick', as I saw similar scenes in early May, just a little further east from where you are....
Margaret
 

ksam

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LK...unfortunately for me..yeah! I need to be beaten over the head, repeatedly I think for some things to really settle in! And then other lessons or observations happen in a flash! But usually I'm a repeat it over and over person! Your wheat pics were breathtaking...really! Next Tuesday I fly out! Pamplona Wed. night. SJPP by Thursday! Holy Crap...now I'm scared..! Nah not really just totally wired. Oh wait..take my own damn advice...breathe!

Absolutely loving your spring pics here! Will try to keep following from the road! Buen Camino mi amiga, Karin
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-

lovingkindness

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Day 266 somewhere near Limoges

Bonjour mes amis. I'm having an entertaining time. Les autres are such fun, so exotic. Recently I spent time in the company of an 19 year old going on 90. His pack weighs nearly 30 kilos according to a US marine he met in a smokey dive. This jaded homme has already spent time in an Indian Ashram, flirted with a cult in Trinidad, read the Unibomber's Manifesto and liked it, practiced Yoga and Zen Bhuddism and ditched them both, and is now tripping on extreme exercise as he floods his brain with anti-establishment literature. Pelerin X began his camino in Vezelay with a bottle whiskey in his pocket to medicate his feet and a book on edible plants to feed himself just in case. His head is full of adventures and angst and he intends living wild but not eating hallucinagenic mushrooms until he's feeling happy and at home. Being an absolute gentleman he insisted on buying me pizza for tea and kissing my hand when we parted. I'm still smiling it was all so fascinating and sweet.

-Lovingkindness
 

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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!

pat.holland

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Feb 13, 2010
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C F 2007-10, Le Puy St. Jean 2011-13, C P 2015 Via F 2016-7
Can I just say again how much I am enjoying your words and photographs and how much of an inspiration they are. You have a great eye for a beautiful photograph
thanks
Pat
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-

lovingkindness

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Well, here I am happy and high on the colour orange as leaves ---drift ---in ---a ---shifting wind and the sun filters through the perspex lid of my Yourte. I have solitude, sweet calming contente as beesongs and crickets lull sleep. Down the road in a shoebox gite for about the same price as my Yourte, The Others lay crammed together perfecting a song, a Symphony of Sorrowful Snorts...
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.

lovingkindness

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Day 272 ....one kiss too many
Hi there, I,ve just strolled into La Reole. It,s about 30 degrees outside and and and and.............I,ve devolved beyond a sweaty mess into a blob. I,m sitting in the air-conditioned Biblioteque reviving, reading emails and facebook entries and 'stuffing' my self on a freebie cyberspace fix.

From Gargilesse to Perigueux I did my best to be compliant and embrace a Cooperative Learning Experience. Each day I set off conscientiously with my custom made map and detailed little blue guide in my pocket. I followed it carefully from the very top of the page to its bottom, arriving effortlessly at a Gites de Pélerin along with The Others.....I've had enough......Pélerin are great fun during the day. They are interesting and unusual, a bit high on fresh air and occassionally demented. But by the time they have walked 26 kilometers in the sweltering heat and expounded the meaning of life, death and everything in-between, by the time they have tired you out with their convoluted tangents and longwinded descriptions of heroic feats and evils overcome, Pélerin do not make good bed mates. They are exhausted, they snore and they are immodest. The gites along this route are basic, 4-6 beds in a tiny room plus shower and cooking facilities. Sometimes extra Pélerin are crammed in, sleeping on the floor. Life becomes chaotic. Tranquility and silence disappear.

By the time I reached Sorges, one step before Perigueux, I was in deep revolt and desperate, feeling caged and panicked and stressed. My sense of personal space felt infringed and everynight I spent hours trying not to hyperventilate. At Sorges it took all my resolve to walk through the gite door ........... and when I did a manic Hospitalera grabbed me in a sweaty embrace and slobbered flabby kisses on my cheek..........Then she said, staring at me with weird looking eyes, I think you are strange. I don,t like you. But I forgive myself for feeling this way about you. I stared at her in horror. She then told me to repeat after her, please: I love myself, I love myself, I love myself. She told me I must chant these words and some other mantra every day as I walked.

Not ****** likely.

I stood there rigid with shock, doing my best not to sink my teeth into her fleshy arm and kick her in the shins. 5 men stood by trying not to laugh, out of reach and no *%# use. I decided there qnd then, That's it. To hell with my sore shoulder and tired feet I'll purchase a tent and run free. I,ll dissappear forever into the wilds of France and sleep with the snakes and lizards and frogs.

-Ropeable
 

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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!

nellpilgrim

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"...I stood there rigid with shock, doing my best not to sink my teeth into her fleshy arm and kick her in the shins.
][/quote]

Whilst admiring your christian restraint Lovingkindness part of me (the wicked part) kind of wished you had let go and given in to your urge to deck the witch.... :oops:

Wishing you peace and space
Nell
 
D

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The volunteers at Sorges outnumber the pilgrims (six, or so, beds/mattresses). I think it is a daily social event, as there always is plenty of wine and conversation. There was almost no English spoken, but the French was slow, clear, and helpful. Sorges is the tuffle capital (self-proclaimed) of France, and houses the Truffle Museum, which is closed during most of the hours a pilgrim has available.

There are some very expensive meals available using the truffles!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery

lovingkindness

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Days 274+ 275 ....
......and then it was dawn and as fast as I could I fled the crampt gite after gobbling cold porrige and ran in first light to Périgueux where I promptly jumped on a bus to a super store and purchased a conceptualised idea of home-Lovingkindness
 

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Nov 1, 2008
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2006 to date: Over 21 Caminos. See signature line
I was in deep revolt and desperate, feeling caged and panicked and stressed. My sense of personal space felt infringed and every night I spent hours trying not to hyperventilate. At Sorges it took all my resolve to walk through the gite door

Lovingkindness,

If it helps, or if not, I understand COMPLETELY how you feel.
This feeling is very familiar to me.
This is why I carried a screen tent on my walks.

You might be interested in looking into a Clark Jungle Hammock.
I'm not sure what kind of $$$ resources you have - they are spendy - but worth every penny and weigh about half as much as a tent. They can also be set up on the ground with trekking poles or sticks.

I hope you have recovered from the slobbery kiss attack and the absurd judgment.
Hang in there.

As usual, your photos are exquisite!
Thank you for brightening my day.
Happy Trails...
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

KiwiNomad06

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The chairs, the coquille in a pond, and Jacobus-the lovely (and it doesn't surprise me he is from the Pays-Bays - I also met some lovely pélerins from there)- these are all such exquisitely evocative photographs. By night, you may have found it hard to rest and sleep in the gîte, but by day, your eyes could still clearly see some beautiful sights.
Margaret
writing from 'home' on the first official day of winter
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc

lovingkindness

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Day 282 ....somewhere beyond Bazas....

Some days time drags and my feet list after hours and hours on a dirty track. 'Bed' is a tormenting desire and to be clean, a lament. I am a Tent Dweller. I sleep in the forests by wood piles, on bracken watching bugs crawl up my mosquito net as its plactic-bag-covering flitters and slaps in the breeze. Tonight I need The Others, I need to be close enough to feel safe and far enough away for Peace. I intend sleeping on the fringes of Pélerin society, on the weeds outside a Gite...

...So, after arriving in Bazas, eating a gourmet omelette with salad and coffee and cake, after visiting the beautiful cathedral and racing around town searching for an internet fix, I left town. For hours I followed the Voie de Vèzelay signs along a leafy ancient track until finally at dusk I arrived.... somewhere, elsewhere but nowhere close to the Gite. I asked directions, then asked again and again until a teenager suggested I sleep at the Halte Nautic, a public camping place beside a highway, opposite a grand Boulangerie in the village of ....

And off I went to the freebie camping site feeling on edge and unsure. I have two Safety Rules and I was about to break them both: Never pitch camp near a motorway. Never sleep within view of a house, a village or town. There are too many variables.

I strung up my net beside an ancient mill pond, behind trees as overhead storm clouds gathered and the wind rendered my plastic useless. I slithered into my sleeping sack then rolled on my side and lay there scared, spying on the world through a peep hole beside my head. By now there were three campervans at the site and I could see someone outside the WC as cars whizzed by in the distance. After 5 minutes I thought, No, this won't work. It's definely going to rain. There's a barbecue shelter with tables and a bench, perhaps I could sleep over there? So I dismantled my' tent', stuffed it in my pack then hauled it to within a few metres of the others. I set up 'house' under the bench. But as I lay beneath the kitchen sink my 7th sense became hyper alert (not my 6th sense which never seems to rest, but the one with hackles and antenae and a thousand ears) and no matter how hard I reasoned with myself, analysed my emotions and responses, I didn't have Peace. And just as my imagination began to go wild and ghastly images of blood and guts and murder appeared, from overhead came

A VOICE.....................................

Bon Soir, Madame.
Mum wants to know, would you like to sleep at our place tonight?

And I lept out of my three-sided shack, stuffed my belongings plus all the spiders and dust they had accumulated into my pack. The teenager! He whipped out his Mobile, phoned home and minutes later I was whisked off in 'Mum's' beat up car.

That night I slept in Maman's double bed. I don't know where she slept. The next day she made me café au lait and kissed me when I left......and no, I didn't bite her and kick her in the shins.....

-Lovingkindness
 

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Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
A selection of Camino Jewellery

lovingkindness

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Day 283 the day after, beyond Captieux....

I am bleached. My emotions have bounced. I'm strung out, shattered, coping. I've pitched my black bags-and-net between climbing roses and a grapevine. No sightings today, The Clan have disappeared.

The farmer's wife comes near.

You can't sleep in that, you can't. She looks at me then back at my 'house' as I tread washing in a tub by the faucet. Please, please take it down. Sleep inside the Gite. But, it's 20 euros a night.... Forget about the money, forget about what I said before. She looks embarrassed. There are no others coming tonight. Please, have a bed, use the Gite, do whatever you like.

Do you require breakfast?
 

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

lovingkindness

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...the other day

When I arrived at midday I wanted to sleep at the Abbey. No. Sorry, we have a full house. So, then I asked, may I camp on the Green instead? Yes. That's an excellent idea. It was well over 30 degrees and after a few hours squatting in the dust I was aching and overheated. Children came out to play and various Brothers and Sisters strolled by. At 6 pm, exhausted and miserable I decided to slide into 'bed' and disappear. But just as I was doing this a shiney, smiley Sister appeared. Would you like some dinner? Would you like to sleep in a bed? Please, please come inside, pack up this tent. But, hey, I thought you had a full house tonight? She replied, that other Sister doesn't know what from what. Of course we have room for you. And guess what, there are two other pélerins inside eager to meet you ......[oh no, no, no].......so I tagged behind Sister, greeted The Buddies , ate a modest tea of spaghetti and soup then found myself led up an 18th century staircase to a quaint chamber above. Mine, absolutely all mine, plus shower across the hall and towels and blankets thrown in. The other pélerin were men......so.......this being a Convent/Monastery/Abbey I needn't sleep with them, not unless I absolutely liked..... which I didn't.

-Lovingkindness
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!

lovingkindness

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...at the Gite....

Mum acquired Dad at an auction mart. They courted awhile then tangoed their way through 30 homes and 30 cars and somehow acquired a tribe of kids, six airplanes, some cats and dogs and a sidecar with Harley Davidson. And before their affections changed they sailed the south seas in a yaught . Wiith every change my mother cried. Not because she didn't like adventure or shifting house but because before she could install her collection of babies, toddlers and teenagers she had to clean. She had to scour and scrub and deflea the nest because without fail the previous occupants had forgot. And with every new abode Mum said, When you grow up and shift house like me, spring clean and mop out before parting. Think of the next poor girl, the exhausted mother or wife and gift her a gleaming present. Love thy neighbour as thy self.

Which is why I always carry a pair of gloves.

(And why my sister spent the first hours of her honeymoon as a Char-lady then succumbed to bronchitus and nearly died).

When I arrived at the Gite de Pélerin in Thiviers (a day before Sorges)I took one look, and thought, 30 minutes, that's all it'll take. I whipped out my latex gloves, stripped the beds and hung out the blankets to air. I swept the floors, removed the webs and examined the fridge and tiles. I'm Happy. Then, just as I was about to scrub some more and polish the windows as well along came a man, furious. What are you doing? Are you from the Association? No, I'm a pélerine. I left you a message. This Gite is closed. No it isn't, the door's unlocked, see, and there's a picture of it in my Guide. Look, there's a notice at Reception saying 'yettle dow' make yourself at home if the no one is there. Then he became aggressive and I got worried. He ordered me to put everything back and stop what I was doing. Which I did. Then I left.

I do not know why the Gite in Thiviers is no longer in use. There's nothing wrong with it. The next day I met 5 pélerins. They, too had met the man and were charged 15 euro a piece to sleep in a yourte.

-Lovingkindness

ps Hi there, Annie + Ksam + Kiwinomad et all.....
 
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lovingkindness

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Thanks, Ellen. Ah...c'est la vie....

Day 289 ....Mont de Marsan....

'No.'
'but Madame, they're too tight.'
' Absolutely not.'
'10 euros, Madam. I paid you 10 euros. Please..... I can't possibly walk in these. I haven't worn them. See, they still in plastic.'
'NO. Leave.'

I decide to beg. I'm scrabbling for verbs, rearranging my limited vocab ....

'your previous client tried on two pair of skimpies and a bikini. She only bought one. And look, that client over there is trying on a brassiere which she probably won't buy.'

A face appears round the curtain, all eyes.

'You should have tried them on before purchasing.'
'You should have invited me to.'


Stalemate. I now have three options: a) accept defeat b)throw a tantrum c).....

'Madame [de la brassier peachy, 50 DD]. Voulez vous un cadeau pour votre filles? Cet Knickers sont trop petite pour moi. Je n'ai pas besoin de.....'

Madame la Salesperson gasps. She's outraged. She whispers furiously with Madame Peachy then stomps up a narrow flight of stairs. She returns with a box and thrusts it at me.

'Try them on right now. I don't want you coming back.'
'C'est parfait, Madame. Perfect.'

Nill response. Silence.

'Madame. Please, may I have an other pair?'
'What!'


I hand her another 10 euros. She scarpers upstairs.

'Thank you for helping me. Madame, please, have a nice day.'

Then I exit. For the rest of the day I'm a wreck but deep down I'm happy.'

-Lovingkindness
 

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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

lovingkindness

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Sep 20, 2009
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Day 291 ...Tournez à droit...

Last night I slept in Le Morgue, along with Jesus + Mary, a bottle of holy water, three crucifixes, a huge bunch of flowers and a comode. When I arrived the Nurse said, 'You will take a bath. NOW!'. Then the other Nurse grabbed my plastic shopping bag and insisted on rummaging inside. 'You do realise where you are, don't you?' She looked at me with a smirk. 'Tonight we lock you in.' ........So I slept as the whiff of chemicals entered my dreams and tossed and slid on a rubber drawsheet in a blacked-out room high on a wheely bed. The next morning an aging Gabriel wooed me with crazy love songs as a lady with dementia shrieked; and in sweet tranquility and quiet repose I ate my meal off a beige plastic tray, hoping the embalming fluids or whatever it was I'd snorted the night before hadn't destroyed my taste........
_____

Yesterday I said farewell to the Voie de Vèzelay . I am now following Le Voie Verte + le Voie Ferrie en Chalosse from Saint Sever to Dax (50 kms). My tourist map indicated a camping ground in Mugron but when I arrived I found it closed. After scouting about I discovered an old Presbytere (17th century?). I waited for hours in a rustic side chapel thinking that if Providence didn't intervene I'd sleep there. Then a lady appeared and said, The building opposite is the site of the former l'Hôsptal St Jacques de Mugron . It is now a Maison de Retrait. Perhaps you might sleep there......
-Lovingkindness
 

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lovingkindness

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Days 295-297...La Cure....

Day 295 I am stuck in Dax, beside myself. Unless a technician can retrieve the dossiers stored on my malfunctioning USB, I have lost all my photos from Bourges to Mont-de-Marsan. To kill time I am wandering the near-empty streets of Dax dreaming. All the world has arrived to take La Cure. The streets are lined with elegant shops, with high-rise hotels and Thermal Spas behind grand and less-than-grand façades. There's the usual tourist stalls plying souvenirs and postcards plus local delicacies and kitch......and I dawdle and longingly wish as....... Les Riches recline in pretty bathing suits beside glistening emerald pools..... They lay cosetted in fluffly white towelling..... as they sip and revive on noxious-smelling salts...... Whilst lying up to their necks in black sludge dredged from the river L'Adour green....slime... drips.... it's miraculous powers upon their weary furrowed brow. Later, after a sauna, a massage and much needed nap it's time for Hot Stone Therapy and Blanching..... in a boiling pond till one turns livid and red. Then..... for an indolent change...... the Gorgeous Others trot down to the Beauty Parlour and pay for a Waxing, a manicure and a cut......[Pleeeeease............are You listening up There?........]

Day 296
The grass withers,
the flowers fade,

....and USB devices crumble and crack.

The Technician (6 or 7 young men and a 14 year old whizzkid) says, Come back tomorrow.

Day 297
Today I am going to purchase a big plastic bucket (€1.50). I'm going to borrow two flat river stones from the artistic mound outside my 'digs' then try out my latest do-it-yourself therapy. I am going to head down town to the grand Fontaine Chaud, 64°C , a classical monument spouting sulphated thermal springs, and take La Cure de Pèlerine au publique. I'll fill up the bucket with boiling salts, leave the stones to heat, strip down to shorts and bikini then plung my aching feet into the hot..hot...heat......ah.... and as my feet soak up the Powers, as I sit on the elegant marble steps sipping from a plastique bouteile de juice, I'll soothe my brow and stiffened neck with les deux pierres chauds...... I'm telling this to an elderly Sister at breakfast. She looks at me and laughs. You don't need to do all that. Why don't you go to Le Trou des Pauvres? What's that? It's a thermal pond down by the rivers edge. Its full of algae and slime. No charge, it was built for The Poor.....she's really laughing now....

So off I trot and plunge my feet into boiling heaven....

Après La Cure prennez La Rinse: a Tip for those who follow......Either slither your way up the grassy slope behind Le Trou des Pauvres and plunge into the cold fountain 10 metres to the left, or string up a Water Bladder/Platypus/Camelpack in a tree overhead then use the drinking hose plus nozzle as a showering spout.

-Lovingkindness
 

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lovingkindness

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Day 298 Dax to Cagnotte: along the Voie de Tours
......Yippeeeee. It's raining and now's my chance to try out my latest creation for this season 's Vogue de Pélerin: le Sac de Poubelle eu Plastique Noir [one-size-fits-all; neck and side slits; length de Mini; weight: 5 grams; cost: 50 cents]. I'll accessorize it with Gortex Trousers: derelict, multipatched; and a Gortex hat, battered.) Today I will follow Le Chemin de St Jacques: Voie de Tours, from Dax to Cagnotte (about 15 kms) where I've heard there is a brand new gite built using donations from pélerins past and Les Amis de St Jacques de Landes. I should arrive just in time to sleep a few minutes before the village Manifestation begins....

-Lovingkindness

PS I don't know how they managed it, 'le technician' electronique de Dax (at least 8 men, a whizzkid, 3 others, and a glossy receptionist) have worked a miracle. My photos have been rescued and I am chastened.....
 

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lovingkindness

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Day 299 ...Cagnotte to Urt

...and so I walked in my elegant Sac Noir in the heaving rain to Peyrehorade. I ate chicken and ripe cherries as I sat on a bench watching les hommes de Pay Basque play Pelotte . Then I crossed a bridge. I turned right along tarmac in the blistering heat and eventually stumbled upon Hastingues. Not The Battle of Hastings-1066 but le petit ville de Hastingues-sur-L'Adour, definitely French. For the rest of the day I followed the L'Adour then hiked up a hill to the township of Urt -kiwi vines, maize fields, wild mulberries, Benedictine Monastery in the distance....

-Lovingkindness
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.

lovingkindness

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Day 300 ...Urt to Bayonne

....and the next morning I made my way to the village of Lahonce for La Fête de Pentecost. The congregation chanted in Basque and afterwards someone invited me home for dinner.....Five hours later after un grand experience cultural et gourmet I dragged myself in to Bayonne where I holed up for the next three days.

Lovingkindness
 

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lovingkindness

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Day 310.... dans la campagne....

…and here it is folks, the most decrepit piano in France. No matter how hard one pounds the keys or how sensitively one executes a phrase all it emits is a grunt. Jangles and spirals frizz out it’s cracks then drop leaden to the floor. The ivories at the upper and lower reach produce no sound at all save a percussive nail-skittering clack. I can feel the rusty wires snapping and plinking with every hammer hit and as the sound box resonates the complexities of Johan Sebastien B. unravel wretched and sick. It’s as good as catnip for stirring the ‘crazies’. It’s fabulous and bizarre and I am laughing and shouting, C’est magnifique, C’est superb, C’est grotesquely aweful and I am a lunatic, I have spent the past 8 days resting up and preparing for the next Stage of my manic trek across the planet and I am happy!

An aspidistra drapes elegantly to one side.

-Lovingkindness
 

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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-

lovingkindness

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Day 315

Honouring acts of kindness: Part One

Usually an angel flits in and out of one’s Camino without prior arrangement or planning. A pélerin’s life is instantly transformed and perhaps their direction is changed. Sometimes a spontaneous encounter sheds golden 'light' or someone calls out Bonjour! Voulez vous un the? -which is really lovely on a hot day. The really dramatic encounters, though, turn your life upside down and leave you laughing.

Angels can operate toute seule or with buddies. They may come with extended families, impoverished clans or even international corporations. Regardless of apparel and style of abode the effect of their entrance is stunning. It just so happens, the angel in Bourges, who allowed me to recuperate for 9 days back in April, had a glamorous aunt in Biarritz and as it was on my map and very near to Spain we both thought…..well…….wouldn't that be nice place to stay? So, one day after plodding all the way across France and experiencing many acts of profound kindness –including two gourmet dinners in a day, a guided tour of a palombiere, and a cushy mattress to add to the comfort to my tent [Retjons, Day 284], I arrived on Tante Angelique’s doorstep. There followed a lovely two-day exchange in which I found myself discussing Dhiagilev and l'Art Nouveau, the Russian Revolution and Chanel, Polish Counts who drove taxi cabs and Basque culture in Fin de Siecle society. Biarritz is a nostalgic place with architectural follies hemmed in by functional modern clutter. The church –I’ve forgotten its name, has a portrait of Saint Jacques high up between two windows. And on the day I visited it was raining and too gloomy to get a shot.

Tante Angelique and her aristocratic spouse spent a lifetime doing aid work in l' Afrique. We sipped tea using elegant bone china and ate four-course meals off embroidered linen. My bedroom had a double bed and a painted wrought iron candelabra and best of all [ squelching niggles of guilt and doubt– hey,I thought pilgrims were meant to suffer], there by the tub lay the symbols of St Jacques, a splattering of beautiful coquilles and circling whorls on a white rubber bathmat.

-Lovingkindness
 

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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-

ksam

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Nov 28, 2007
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ksamsontheroad.blogspot.com
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Via Francigena...2024
Ohhh, now you torment me! Now I wish I'd had more time in Biaritz and Bayonne! I knew there was more to see, but not enough time before the train to SJPP! Thank you for letting me see a little more. I did wander during the hour plus that I had, but only dared go so far, for fear of ... missing the train and chickening out all together!

Ahhh....can't believe I have to wait at least a year again!
 
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lovingkindness

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Day 323 Au revoir et merci à Dieu et à vous......

I'm spending my last moments in France by the sea, sitting on an old rusty bench as leaves rattle in the breeze. Cockle pickers are out on the mud flats hunting for shells and crabs and I can hear the bells of a church/cathedral across the bay in Spain. It,s 26° C. and I,m feeling free and full of joy.

I arrived in France just as the snows ceased and Spring began to awaken. It is now high summer and all the world is frying at the beach. Many acts of kindness and spontaineous friendship have accompanied my way and I am very thankful......Merci à Dieu et merci beaucoup à vous, les gens français trés amicaux. C'est un plaisir de vous avoir rencontrer.....

-Lovingkindness
 
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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!

jl

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May 30, 2007
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Frances('05, '07), Aragonese ('05), del Norte / Primitivo ('09), Via Tolosana (Toulouse '05), Via Podiensis (Le Puy '07), Via Lemovicensis (Troyes '09), VF ('12), Winter Camino ('13/'14) Cammino d'Assisi ('14) Jakobseweg (Leipzig - Paris '15) San Salvador/Norte ('15) Ignaciano ('16) Invierno ('16)
Oh Lovingkindness, I have so enjoyed looking at your photos as you have come down through France (and of course all the ones prior to that too!). They have re-kindled many happy memories for me - I really enjoyed walking the Vezelay path.

I was very blessed at St Jean de Luz to attend a Basque mass (it was Sat. night). I had had a very big day and just sat in the Church to rest. The longer I sat, the more people who came in and so I just continued to sit .... and lo, was treated to a regular monthly Basque Mass with a male voice choir! The music was wonderful - drowning out the sirens outside while the police dealt with a bomb threat at the back of the church!.

Accomodation was very scarce (non existent) because it was about the last weekend of the tourist season and so every man and his dog was there. I walked up hill and out of town a little and slept in the shadow of a tree on the side of the road. The music (not my style, I might add) from the parties being conducted in the town boomed through the warm evening air till well into the morning, while the lights of the township twinkled below my hiding place.

"Stay well", and Buen Camino, Janet
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc

LTfit

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Mar 6, 2010
3,534
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The Netherlands
Hi lovingkindness,

Great pictures of the coast (especially enjoyed les grand-mère basques). Looks like the Sentier Littoral needs to be added to my list. Who knows, if I fry on the Via de la Plata I may just head up to the coast. For now off to pack as I am leaving for Sevilla on Thursday - just a romp in the park compared to your epic travels.

Un abrazo fuerte,
LT
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery

lovingkindness

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Sep 20, 2009
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falcon269 said:
Bayonne to Irun in 24 days; that is a pace worthy of emulation! It sounds like trekking is fun again. Bon chemin and now buen camino.

Falcon 269, you noticed!
I was hoping someone would comment! In Bayonne yet another miracle flew my way, this time courtesy of Rugby and the All Blacks. This year The World Cup is being held Down Under in NZ and I´m convinced that Saint Jacques is in cahoots with the home side. All across France not a day passed without a Frenchman declaring passionately and vociferously that he loved the All Blacks and Ler Ruoogbeee and me.

….well perhaps not me…..and not everyday, but it certainly felt like it.

One day out of the haze an email fled across space into the heart of an exhausted whacked-out pelerina. It went something like this…..´ I have a cat named Kiwi. Would you like to meet? And I thought, Kiwi? Kiwi? I have to see this! So for the next 11 days I slept and dined and played with a crazy cat somewhere in the south of France whilst it´s owner went out on archeological digs and cooked up lavish meals. Angelina/Angelica/Angel-number-1000-and-3-attending-my-most blessed-trek-across-the-planet stayed up all hours of the night solving problems (mine). She sewed and plotted and merrily planned so that when I finally set off again from Bayonne my mosquito net and two plastic bags were permanently attached and respectable.

Honouring acts of Kindness Part 2....
 

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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-

lovingkindness

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Sep 20, 2009
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...at the end of the day...well, here I am, happy and serene on the colour blue as I repose piano y solita in a sweetly scented almost-new Mongolian yourte. I´m not sure where I am but the people who invited me in are gentle and kind. The sign out front has a shower painted on it .....I can sure do with one of those.....and on the other side are the words ´Love finds a way´. Everyone here has a Hebrew name and there´s a dress code of some kind -long hair, beards, forehead bands..... and lots of wholesome food.....

-Lovingkindness
 

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Sagalouts

RIP 2015
Apr 23, 2008
516
220
HI
Following with increased interest now your on the Norte,as always great pics but can you post less of the hilly bits and steep steps please:) I'm getting frightened :shock: planning walking this way in September.
love the sound of the hippy yurt place,though I may have to staple the flowers to my head these days.
go well your an inspiration to us all.
Ian
 
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