- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yearly and Various 2014-2019
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Well, I think you might consider how the Vdlp could shake you out of one particular comfort zone and open up all the new horizons that caminos with southern start points offer.
These southern ones "speak" to me, perhaps because they are exotic for a person who comes from a tree-covered northern mountainous region.open up all the new horizons that caminos with southern start points offer.
By all means, continue. There are many things I missed! I wonder if there is a way we can consolidate the information. For example, your intro post could summarize the essence of what was posted on "my" thread (or even copy the text over), and then people can add to it. Feel free to ignore this suggestion (I have been told before to not fix things if they aren't broke), and I will just compare notes as we go. Or let me know if I can help.could be tempted to stop our virtual camino here, as the Sanabrés is so well covered by that thread, with so much information.
However, we're slow walkers, and our stages are different, so may I ask the indulgence of the pilgrims in this forum, if I continue? I'm happy to speed things up when similar stages have already been covered in @C clearly 's thread...
I have been looking, too, but I'm not very good at this reconstruction or detective work. Based on the timing of my photos and @Raggy 's photo (I'm attaching his photo again here) showing the culverts and the back of the arrow, I think the arrow must be on the path over the Arroyo de la Perdigón as shown on this screen-capture, just before the El Brocal monuments (another photo attached). However, we can't see the arrow on Google Earth. Probably @Raggy will know exactly. Or we could bring @Kathar1na into this thread to help!I have scanned Google Earth to find the location of @C clearly 's yellow arrow, but couldn't find it...
By all means, continue. There are many things I missed! I wonder if there is a way we can consolidate the information. For example, your intro post could summarize the essence of what was posted on "my" thread (or even copy the text over), and then people can add to it.
Would it be appropriate to start a new thread as this one is getting rather heavy, and you're only halfway to Santiago?!
You could then link to this thread in the first post of the new thread. And leave a link to the new thread at the bottom of this thread.
Here's a condensed review of @C clearly 's plan from Zamora with notes on the stages above 24km. Hope it helps anyone who prefers to walk shorter distances.may I ask the indulgence of the pilgrims in this forum, if I continue? I'm happy to speed things up when similar stages have already been covered in @C clearly 's thread...
Day | Route (Dist.) | Notes |
1 | Zamora to Montamarta (19 km) | |
2 | Montamarta to Fontanillas de Castro (13 km) | |
3 | Fontanillas de Castro to Granja de Moreruela ( | |
4 | Granja de Moreruela to Faramontanos de Tábara (18 km) or Tábara (25 km) | Take the short option to Faramontanos de Tábara (18km) |
5 | Tábara to Santa Marta de Tera (22 km) | Start in Faramontanos (7km before Tabara). Split into two and go farther than Santa Marta on the second day: 5.1. Faramontanos to Villanueva de las Peras (21km) 5.2 Villanueva to Calzadilla de Tera (21km) |
6 | Santa Marta de Tera to Rionegro del Puente (27 km) | By going farther than Santa Marta on Day 5.1 you have a shorter day to Rionegro del Puente. |
7 | Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas (23 km) | |
8 | Entrepenas to Puebla de Sanabria (19 km) | |
9 | Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo de Sanabria (12km) | |
10 | Requejo de Sanabria to Lubian (19 km) | |
11 | Lubián to A Gudiña (24 km) | |
12 | Day 12 - A Gudiña to Laza (34 km) | Split into two parts 12.1 A Gudiña to Campobecerros (20km) 12.2 Campobecerros to Laza (14km) |
14 | Day 14 - Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia (34 km) | @C clearly has no Day 13. I'll leave it as is. Split into two: 14.1 Laza to to Albergueria (12km) or Vilar de Bario (20km) 14.2 Albergueria to Ourense (22km) or Vilar de Bario to Ourense (14km) |
15 | Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense (22 km) | |
16 | Ourense to Oseira (30 km) - via Canedo (shorter, steeper) via Tamallancos (1km farther) | There's an alternative route that bypasses Oseira, but if you want to stay at the monastery, then: 16.1 Ourense to Cea (21km or 22km) 16.2 Cea to Oseira (8.5km) |
17 | Oseira to Estación de Lalín (27 km) or A Laxe (33 km) | Oseira to Estación de Lalin (23km) - Distance is 23km according to Gronze. Best double check with Google maps or Wikiloc. If you wanted you could split the stage in Castro Dozón |
18 | A Laxe to Dornelas (23 km) | |
19 | Dornelas to Lestedo (14 km) | |
20 | Lestedo to Santiago (14 km) |
An alternative would be to start a new thread for convenience and speed now, while we are participating every day. Then, when AJ reaches Santiago, we can merge the threads and keep the full account together.My vote is for keeping the thread together, it reflects the length of the entire route.
One of the things I would love to experience in Salamanca is a street performance by a local Tuna Universitaria, university students in traditional university dress who play traditional instruments and sing serenades.
Has anyone experienced this?
Yes. From the sequence of my photos it is shortly before the El Brocal de Promesas monument.I have been looking, too, but I'm not very good at this reconstruction or detective work. Based on the timing of my photos and @Raggy 's photo (I'm attaching his photo again here) showing the culverts and the back of the arrow, I think the arrow must be on the path over the Arroyo de la Perdigón as shown on this screen-capture, just before the El Brocal monuments (another photo attached). However, we can't see the arrow on Google Earth. Probably @Raggy will know exactly. Or we could bring @Kathar1na into this thread to help!
Great detective work, @Raggy !Yes. From the sequence of my photos it is shortly before the El Brocal de Promesas monument.
After reviewing the route on Wikiloc, and comparing to Google Map's satellite view and Google Earth, I think it's where I've put the yellow X on the screenshot below. at this point, the camino turns left and crosses over a ditch. Not the main stream of the Arroyo, but I expect water overflows that way, so it needs a culvert.
View attachment 77241
There's a chance it could be at the junction to the left of the X. But I distinctly remember turning left when I saw that yellow arrow.
I also found an intriguing shadow just to on the lower side of a bridge/culvert - above the "A" of Arroyo, to the right of the X. If I had seen that shadow in the right place, I'd have said "That's it!" But it is not on the Camino route, so I think it's a red herring.
By the way, the sofa is visible on Google Street view. It's looking much tattier than when I sat on it in 2017 and someone has moved it to the corner opposite the Camino arrow. Too bad they didn't move it to the local dump.
Because you approached it from the back? I went right!I distinctly remember turning left when I saw that yellow arrow.
Then I have no idea. Looks like we will have to wait for someone on the way to tell us.Because you approached it from the back? I went right!
Your photo, @C clearly , shows a miliario on the left of the arrow (when looking in the same direction as the arrow is pointing). So I would have thought that you turned left after crossing this culvert, and going past the arrow, to go towards the miliario. Unless the miliario was off the Camino.Because you approached it from the back? I went right!
My memory is that the millario was across the ditch to my left, a few meters before the culvert. (I crossed the ditch to take the two photos below and then returned to the path). On reaching the T junction, I turned left to walk over the culvert in the direction of the arrow.Your photo, @C clearly , shows a miliario on the left of the arrow (when looking in the same direction as the arrow is pointing).
Arrows aside, I'm curious about this.El Brocal de Promesas monument
@Raggy described this as "Camino-henge".Arrows aside, I'm curious about this.
Does anyone know anything?
I googled it and there's not a lot there...
This short video shows the rim of the "well" broken:Bizarre Spain blog describes the monument falling into disrepair:
Yes. You've left the Tierra del Vino for the Tierra del Pan. And if you leave Zamora nice and early, there's an appropriate treat for you in the first town after Zamora - Roales del Pan:Day 43: Zamora to Montamarta
And stunning callos, a dish that sounds worse when you translate it to tripe. Excellent food indeed in RosamariI have only stayed once in Montamarta, and it was in a very nice Casa Rural, Casa del Sastre (home of the tailor). It appears to be closed, however.
But I cannot recommend Rosamary Restaurant enough. The restaurant is located on the way out of town, so if you don’t know to look for it, you are likely to eat at an in-town place, of which there are a few. Rosamari is owned and operated by two women, and the food is definitely a notch above. I noted in my journal that it was only the second time on my Vdlp that I had a salad that was not made of iceberg lettuce (the first being in the restaurant across the street from the albergue in Casar de Cáceres).
In the morning, as we were walking out of town, one of the women was sweeping outside the entrance, and she bowed with her broom to bid us farewell. My picture didn’t really capture the bow, but it was such a nice gesture. Not to be missed under any circumstances. View attachment 77316
I don’t think I could ever utter a sentence with the word “stunning” describing “callos,” no matter what language it’s in.And stunning callos, a dish that sounds worse when you translate it to tripe. Excellent food indeed in Rosamari
That stage was enlivened by some detours along and across road/rail construction in 2017. I suspect that project will continue for decades. It may seem odd, but I enjoy arriving on foot at projects and activities that I would normally only see from a moving car. I feel a bit like a naughty trespasser.
This photo shows a veritable crowd on the VDLP. In front were some Italians (?) who I never got to know. The detours were well marked. On the left are forum member @Simon Shum and his wife.
You love them, you hate them. I passionately love them. Never get enough, particularly with some tasty chickpeasI don’t think I could ever utter a sentence with the word “stunning” describing “callos,” no matter what language it’s in.
Check first if going via San Marciel. I was walking with someone who wanted coffee and detoured only to meet up later and find out everything was closed.Great detective work, @Raggy !
The location shows that we would still see the arrow even if we detoured by San Marcial.
I have made a note to ensure I get the GPS coordinates of the arrow when I convert this virtual VdlP into a real life one
@Sara_Dhooma mentioned in her video that there are no info signs around there, and that she was curious about the ruins. A question that @C clearly asked too:I am looking forward to sitting around the ruins at Castrotorafe and admiring the view. I find it so amazing to see ruins like that just standing there in the middle of nowhere without fences and display signs and tourists.
@alansykes 's photo shows a fence around the ruins. So is it accessible?What is the story behind the ruins at Castrotorafe?
Who can say what impact the pandemic will have on the little businesses up and down the camino that were just about getting by on the pilgrim economy, such as it was? Municipal albergues that have the backing of local government are financially secure but might not be able to open in some cases because they need to make changes to comply with hygiene rules. Folks who own their land, have family ties to the region, and aren't heavily in debt, are the most likely to weather the storm. People who recently moved to the area and took out a loan ...Day 44: Montamarta to Fontanillas de Castro or Riego del Camino
I got curious and found this, which has reasonably good info in spite of the annoying 'romantic' label on the ruins:We want to enjoy the ruins, and so we have two options for our next stop.
1688 was immediately after the 3rd of these plague waves; a small walled town would be just the kind of place that a pneumonic or bubonic plague epidemic could burn through with terrible effect, compounding the effects of whatever other difficulties that might have been happening at the time:Three great plagues ravaged Spain in the 17th century. [...] historians reckon the total cost in human lives due to these plagues throughout Spain, throughout the entire 17th century, to be a minimum of nearly 1.25 million.
For nine years (1676–1685), great outbreaks of the disease attacked in waves across the country. It struck the areas of Andalucía and Valencia particularly hard. In conjunction with the poor harvest of 1682-83 which created famine conditions, the effects killed tens of thousands of the weakened and exhausted population. When it ended in 1685, it is estimated to have taken over 250,000 lives.
@alansykes 's photo shows a fence around the ruins. So is it accessible?
In 2017, you could not wander among the ruins - they were fenced. However, on a nice day, especially if no one else is there, it IS very cool to sit for a snack on the edge of the hill overlooking the river, and imagine you were in ancient times watching for friends or enemies approaching on the river.it was very cool to be there
Thanks VN for those links - I will go read them now. We will get you onto the VDLP yet!I got curious
The article that you linked to states "Castrotorafe's long history came to an end sometime after the wars of Castilian succession. In 1688, we find the first written notice that the town had been abandoned and was in need of repair."Apparently the town vanished some time before 1688, and I wondered why? Plague?
The bar in Riego del Camino was still there last November, and the coffee was OK, but I didn't risk eating. A stern notice inside prohibited photography, presumably because a long stream of pilgrims had been fascinated by the squalor and wanted to immortalise it. Runner-up, or possibly third in my really very short list of "Spain's most horrible bars" - Almonacid de Toledo's dirty and racist Kuki [sic] bar on the Levante sharing top spot with the equally unwelcoming and insanitary Bar Mayve at Madrigalejo on the Guadalupe variant of the Mozárabe.There was a bar on the road, frequently the subject of a lot of negative commentary. It may be closed now, because the woman in charge told me she was losing steam, and that was in 2013. The place would not have passed a health inspection, but the food was edible and we survived. And though I wouldn’t count on it still being there 7 years later,
If Casa Camino has reopened by the time we walk in real life, we think we would spend the night in Riego del Camino. That gives us a shorter distance to Granja the next morning, and a possible unencumbered visit of the Monastery before lunch.So what I would to is walk into Granja and leave your stuff at Tio Quico. Then take the path out to the monastery, it’s under an hour each way.
Either way, you'll have time to visit the Monasterio de Moreruela and it won't be an over-strenuous day. The walk is straight and dusty. The Via de la Plata doesn't end in Granja - It continues as far as Astorga. But at this point, it wasn't exciting me anymore. I felt a sense of closure. I was ready to make that left turn toward a different kind of landscape.Day 45: Fontanillas de Castro or Riego del Camino to Granja de Moreruela
Can you share a high level overview of what we would see if we took the road less travelled?I was going on towards Astorga. The next 4 days I was essentially on my own.
There's a good bar around the corner from the albergue in Granja, i checked it out as the reviews of bar teleclub were lukewarm at best and i just didn't get a great "feel" from the place when i stopped in to register for the albergue.Either way, you'll have time to visit the Monasterio de Moreruela and it won't be an over-strenuous day. The walk is straight and dusty. The Via de la Plata doesn't end in Granja - It continues as far as Astorga. But at this point, it wasn't exciting me anymore. I felt a sense of closure. I was ready to make that left turn toward a different kind of landscape.
I think you're wise to stay at the Casa Rural. The albergue facilities are OK when the weather is fine - a single dorm with fine showers, a small kitchen area in the hall and a peculiar dining room upstairs (children's school desks). There's also a laundry sink in a tiny courtyard that you can access from the dormitory. There you'll find a few lines for drying clothes... I have read comments that the management refuse to turn on the heating in the colder months. I have mixed feelings about the Bar Teleclub which manages the albergue. The garden at the bar is actually a delight during the afternoon. A very pleasant spot for an aperitif. Recommend that you use some insect repellant when you're there since the puddles in the river bed make an ideal breeding ground for midges and mozzies. Next to the bar is an interpretation center for the monasteries that were in the area. I've never found it open.
On my first trip through Granja, I was all alone. Second time around, I was surprised that quite a few people rolled up to start their Camino Sanabres from here. I remember that feeling of being surrounded by strangers that night - We became friends the next day in Tábara.
The bar serves dinner from 7pm, I think. They insist on you coming into the bar to eat. I would have loved to stay outside, away from the people shouting to make themselves heard above the noise of football on TV. Fortunately, the food is of quite a high standard and the red wine that I got with the pilgrim menu, was a very pleasant Toro wine - all served by a friendly woman who might be married to the grouchy barman...
I've twice encountered the man behind the bar in the morning and found him to be a grouch on both occasions. If I am ever passing through Granja again, I won't bother going to the bar in the morning. It doesn't serve any food except left-over tapas from the night before or long-life "Madeleines," in their plastic wrappers. You can get a fresh coffee, so there's that. Don't expect a "Buenos Dias," or a "Buen Camino," though.
In summary ... Albergue = OK but casa rural must be better.
Aperitif and pilgrim dinner at Bar Teleclub = Pretty good.
Breakfast = Have them prepare a doggy bag the night before. Don't visit the bar in the morning.
The scenery wasn't spectacular and I don't have tales of wonder, but I did enjoy this stretch - maybe because I had no expectations and I was largely alone.Can you share a high level overview of what we would see if we took the road less travelled?
(By the road less travelled, I mean the VDLP to Astorga.
I didn't even know that frogs' legs were a thing in Spain. I haven't had them since I was a kid.La Bañeza is reported to be the best place in Spain for frogs’ legs.
I had no idea, but I can believe it! This one was sighted before Benavente and I heard many many more.La Bañeza is reported to be the best place in Spain for frogs’ legs.
I was not going to stay because of previous bad reviews but a friend who had stayed a few nights before said she found it clean and with helpful staff. I stayed in a tiny single bedroom with bathroom and also found it clean and comfortable. At €25 including dinner, it was good value.
It is a beautiful walk, which I described in @C clearly's virtual Camino. The prettiest scenery is toward the start. Once you reach the long descent toward Faramontanos de Tábara with vineyards and tiny attached cottages, the best is behind you. If you're going to call a cab, you could have it meet you at the bar in Faramontanos.Day 46: Granja de Moreruela to Tábara
My sincere apologies!It is a beautiful walk, which I described in @C clearly's virtual Camino.
Watching José Almeida in Sara's video, I could feel that he is someone special.Tabara's albergue is run by Jose Almeida - a central figure in the Camino Sanabres and the parallel Camino Zamorano-Portugues. (It's one thing to love the Camino so much that you decide to run an albergue, but quite another to love it so much that you also establish an alternative route that bypasses your albergue). Jose will welcome you with tea, show you the dormitory and bathroom, take your dirty clothes for washing (one day's worth of laundry only please), bring you a chupito while you relax in the yard as he prepares dinner, invite you and the other pilgrims to the communal table for dinner with some touching ceremonies, and get consensus on the time for breakfast the next morning.
"Strenuous" is a word that we will be considering tonight, as we sit at José Almeida's table, enjoying his meal. And we might ask him about the next day. Should we stop at Villanueva de las Peras? We could stay at Albergue Alameda. He'll probably know when he sees how tired Rachel might be after this day's walk.I would recommend carrying on as far as Tabara, though, because the walk from Tabara to Santa Marta is strenuous and the municipal (donativo) albergue in Tabara is quite special.
Ha! I found that being the protagonist in a virtual camino thread actually took quite a lot of effort, to do well. Towards the end I got lazy and didn't research so much. But by that point on a camino, one isn't so worried about working out all the details in advance.I was distracted as I wrote about today's stage
By this point in your camino, you may find that you're more confident about longer distances. I guess you'll know what you want to do. The good news is that there's a wealth of options from Tábara. If you stop at Villanueva (14km), you will find what you need there - a nice restaurant with very friendly owners, and an albergue. From there, you have options to walk 10km (Santa Marta), 15km? (Camarzana - off camino), 21km (Calzadilla), or 23km (Olleros). Most pilgrims walk from Tábara to Santa Marta, I think."Strenuous" is a word that we will be considering tonight, as we sit at José Almeida's table, enjoying his meal. And we might ask him about the next day. Should we stop at Villanueva de las Peras? We could stay at Albergue Alameda. He'll probably know when he sees how tired Rachel might be after this day's walk.
But in Bercianos, you will bring something of interest (yourself) into a tiny community of elderly residents, many of whom are eager to talk to you.
and he had mentioned that fact also when @C clearly walked this stage virtually.the walk from Tabara to Santa Marta is strenuous
Hopefully they won't be around.On your way out of Tabara you will likely have to walk the gauntlet of a pack of quite scary dogs. They are pretty aggressive and they don't want you hanging around their territory.
Now we have to remember here that we are slow walkers, and even though one could think that we have become more confident with longer distances by now, it all depends on my darling's stamina on the day.ATTENTION! Since the closure of Casa Anita Santa Marta has turned into an accommodation bottleneck with the albergue often filling up early in the day. You would be wise to get here early or to have a Plan B.
Rachel used to work in aged care, and will enjoy meeting some of the residents of Bercianos.
or eat out at the Bar la Moña
Classic. Now I like Teo even more than I did.Teo, the excellent and engaging chef of Rionegro del Puente's Me Gusta Comer restaurant (two days further on) succinctly explained it to me as "oh, son todos fascistas allí."
Saw a great video about dealing with sheep-guarding dogs on one of the French Facebook groups recently (cheminer?). Basically the advice was to call out in a calm voice to avoid surprising the dogs. Take a path away from the sheep that they’re watching. Keep talking. Don’t make eye contact but keep them in your field of vision. Don’t run. Don’t turn your back on them. Stop and pause for a while if they seem agitated. Hold an object (e.g. your hat or your bag) in front of you to give the dog something else to focus on. Don’t raise your sticks. Don’t throw stones.Day 47: Tábara to Villanueva
I am somewhat concerned about the pack of dogs @Raggy mentions in @C clearly 's virtual Sanabrés.
The owners at La Moña are lovely. I think they also own the albergue. They opened for us on their day off and gave us some French toast as a treat at the end of our meal. Recommended.We can either cook in the albergue's kitchen (still need to find a local tienda), or eat out at the Bar la Moña.
You have a 14km head start on many of the people who are aiming for Santa Marta so I think you can be confident. I have a feeling that I also saw a boutique hotel there too. Check on google maps if it isn’t in Gronze. [Edit - Scratch that. I was thinking of the restaurant Venta Medievo. The nearest hotel is in Camarzana which is 5km up the road from Santa Marta. It’s off Camino but not by too much - it puts you somewhat closer to Rionegro]. Might be an option if you feel like a bit more comfort. That said, the albergue is modern and well appointed.To get there we will go through Santa Marta de Tera, but we have to be careful, as Gerald Kelly advises in his guide book:
I stayed with the South African missionaries in mid November, 2017. They were very hospitable. At that time, they said that they were about to close for the winter, because the albergue was not heated. I noticed heavy frost on the ground when I began my walk that morning. I don't know if they take reservations, but I would certainly try if I were walking out of season.The South African missionaries have built a really stunning albergue in Villar de Farfón. I’ve only ever stopped by for a coffee but it’s a beautiful, little, hostel.
The nearest hotel is in Camarzana which is 5km up the road from Santa Marta. It’s off Camino but not by too much - it puts you somewhat closer to Rionegro]. Might be an option if you feel like a bit more comfort.
@Raggy, I saw that video too. Here it is:Saw a great video about dealing with sheep-guarding dogs on one of the French Facebook groups recently (cheminer?). Basically the advice was to call out in a calm voice to avoid surprising the dogs. Take a path away from the sheep that they’re watching. Keep talking. Don’t make eye contact but keep them in your field of vision. Don’t run. Don’t turn your back on them. Stop and pause for a while if they seem agitated. Hold an object (e.g. your hat or your bag) in front of you to give the dog something else to focus on. Don’t raise your sticks. Don’t throw stones.
Yes. That's the one.@Raggy, I saw that video too. Here it is:
But as you said, the pack you encountered were not looking after sheep...
I can't comment on whether there's a bed race here during high season... If you've read it then I guess its' true. But you will be fine, setting off from Villanueva. If you maintain a steady 2.5km per hour for the ten downhill kilometers, only the sportiest walkers from Tábara (>6km/h) will get there before you. Those people won't be stopping in Santa Marta.We have read various accounts and blogs of how the albergue fills up quickly, as the Camino Levante joins the Sanabrés here,
I guess I was being cautious after reading the warning from Gerald Kelly's guide about an accommodation bottleneck in Santa Marta. I did read a blog (with loads of great photos), where the author wrote:I can't comment on whether there's a bed race here during high season... If you've read it then I guess its' true. [...]
"And what about pilgrims from other trails?" you say. I think it's the Camino del Sureste that joins the Sanabres at Santa Marta. (The Levante meets the VDLP in Zamora). Bypassing Zamora and joining the Sanabres at Santa Marta is a very uncommon route. Be sure to get a selfie with anyone who came that way.
Bottom line = You will have your choice of bunks at Santa Marta.
I trained as an engineer in my youth, and we always designed for worst case scenarios, so I guess that's in the grainWe tried to save two beds, but two new pilgrims came along from the Camino Levante and took them. The rule is that you can't save beds anyway, so I had to give them up. When our friends finally arrived, Nadine got the last bed, and we were very, very lucky to see another mattress that we could put on the floor for Norm. We dodged a bullet this time!
Yeah. Everyone says they're preparing for the worst case scenario, but who among us prepared a contingency plan for when a virus takes over the world? Dilbert, that's who:I trained as an engineer in my youth, and we always designed for worst case scenarios, so I guess that's in the grain
which we are going to enjoy.that this stage starts out with a really nice river-side walk
which we are going to enjoy.
When is the season?If you’re allergic to all those snow-like puffs that cottonwood trees drop, you should take your medicine on this stage, at least if you are walking in season!
The walk by the river is pleasant. I don't think it's stunningly beautiful. In places, the river is just a concrete channel, but it's green and lush and it's also flat, which feels good after the ups and downs from Tábara. Unfortunately, there's a large quarry at one point on the way, and when I walked in 2017, I had to cover my mouth a few times when the dirty trucks went past me, kicking up clouds of dust. After that quarry, things become more tranquil again. There's even a nice picnic area with tables overlooking the river Tera. It all feels very close to civilization - no big adventure, just a bit of village to village hopping. I had a spring in my step all the way.Day 49: Santa Marta de Tera to Calzadilla de Tera
One of these days someone is going to tell us that we've overhyped Me Gusta Comer, but yes, it's the "famous restaurant," of the camino. I think you'll feel happy and stuffed after lunch and dinner there. Perhaps you should take a dip in the river to build up an appetite between meals ... or perhaps not if you're walking in the Spring. It may be too chilly. I've read that Tio can also do breakfast in the morning if there is sufficient demand. Not sure how many pilgrims need to sign up for that to happen.eat twice at the famous restaurant in Rionegro
I am hoping that as we walk past, one or two might call out "Peregrino", so that we can stop and have a chat. We had that wonderful experience in 2018, both in France and on the Norte, when we would walk through villages deserted by the younger generation. We would meet elderly people, who would love to share their life experience.I didn't stay in Calzadilla, but I remember seeing a lot of older residents lined up on a bench in town in the late afternoon, socializing. I expect they've known each other their entire lives.
Ah, sorry, @Raggy , I can't give you an engineer's opinion in this case, I was trained in microelectronicsLet me know your engineer's opinion of that. I think there's no excuse for it at any budget.
We're looking forward to this experience, and the 16km stage will give us an appetite to enjoy a meal (or two) at Me Gusta Comer.Well, it sounds like a visit to Rionegro is worth a trip to Spain in itself.
May-June, or thereabouts (at least that's when I last encountered them on the Frances.When is the season?
Leaving Calzadilla, you'll continue on the riverside path. The next village, Olleros will appear in no time. The bar La Trucha probably won't be open until later in the day, so you may as well walk on by.Day 50: Calzadilla de Tera to Rionegro del Puente
Day 51: Rionegro del Puente to Entrepeñas
After all this good food, and with a couple of bocadillos from Tio at Me Gusta Comer in the mochila, we have to walk!
another highlight of this Camino
We had a break in Zamora, and we have planned another break in Ourense. Puebla de Sanabria looks like a nice middle point to take another two night break. So I am open to more comments about the option of spending an extra night here.Some people might even suggest stopping a while in Puebla. You could spend a full day just kicking back and enjoying the views and the old world charm.
we are going to go slower. Hopefully we won't be labelled "lazy pilgrims"...Be sure to take a look at the frieze in the porch of the church in Otero Triufe - It shows the lazy pilgrims being consumed by the fires of hell. Let that be a warning to get thee to Santiago, pronto!
I, too, would like to keep this thread continuous. It will be very useful for me when I can walk the Levante and want to pick up more current information on the northern section of the VdlP. It is also a great reminder of my own walk there. As this virtual walk is approaching Lubian, I would like to give a shout out for the casa rural, Casa Irene, at Lubian. When I went through there on November 9, 2017, Jose and his wife Begona had recently taken over. I had passed the local albergue, which looked quite primitive and was locked at the time, so I went on and arrived at Casa Irene, also on the camino. They gave myself and another pilgrim a good discount for being late season pilgrims, and wonderful hospitality. If they are still there and open, I hope that others may continue to experience the same.Day 52: Entrepeñas to Puebla de Sanabria
Once more, we are following @C clearly 's footsteps, and we're looking forward to a stage @Raggy describes as
I have noted @peregrina2000 's suggestions for accommodation in Puebla, and as there seems to be a good choice, I was wondering about @Raggy 's comment:
We had a break in Zamora, and we have planned another break in Ourense. Puebla de Sanabria looks like a nice middle point to take another two night break. So I am open to more comments about the option of spending an extra night here.
As we have been following @C clearly 's stages to date, and will do so until we get to Lubián, I am not expecting much commentary here. After Lubián, despite the warning below:
we are going to go slower. Hopefully we won't be labelled "lazy pilgrims"...☺ and the extra stages will elicit comments.
(Your thoughts: should I just jump ahead to stages where our walking diverges from @C clearly 's virtual camino?)
Puebla de Sanabria is a treat. The longest I spent there was half a day (2017). At that time, I remember being charmed by the olde worlde atmosphere. There's something slightly MiddleEarth-ish about it. After crossing the bridge, you should climb the steps to get to the old town. Of course you can take a gentler slope if you continue on the road, but the exertion will make you appreciate the view from the top. You can imagine yourself in Rohan, a defensive position with a view out to the edge of hostile territory - which is exactly what Puebla de Sanabria once was.Day 52: Entrepeñas to Puebla de Sanabria
That says it all!Nada màs pido: el cielo sobre mi y el Camino bajo mis pies
It will be a shortish day, 12.1km.The walk from Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo is okay - The signage to get out of Puebla de Sanabria could be better but once you're out of town and you get off the road, you have pleasant riverside and woodland walking.
We didn't cut short our visit to Puebla, but we need to check out the accommodation in Requejo. It looks like we will heed @Raggy 's advice, as his experience is more recent than @peregrina2000 's experience 10 years ago. Interestingly, Gerald Kelly's guide doesn't mention Tu Casa. @Sara_Dhooma stayed at the Albergue Casa Cerviño. And there is the Hotel Maite.If you decide to cut short your visit to Puebla and trek on to Requejo, be sure to avoid the cheap, cheap, highly recommended, blah, blah, roadside "Hostel tu Casa."
I took a look at the map and street view of Puebla to understand why such a small place feels inadequately waymarked to me. There ought to be nothing to it - Follow Camino del Ponton as far as the Guardia Civil, then head up to the Av. de Galicia and turn left until, eventually, you come across an arrow to the left that takes you to the footpath. But somehow, I have those irritating moments of doubt here.Day 54: Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo
It's a big hill and it's on the side of the fast (but mercifully not very busy) road. Plan on tackling it after first light.@C clearlyLooking at the profile of the stage to Lubián, there is a nice hill from Requejo, and we may need to start the climb fresh in the morning, after a good night's rest.
My theory is that Requejo has been spoiled by all the business that came from the AVE construction workers. I think this is probably how the towns in California or the Yukon felt after gold was discovered there.We didn't cut short our visit to Puebla, but we need to check out the accommodation in Requejo. It looks like we will heed @Raggy 's advice, as his experience is more recent than @peregrina2000 's experience 10 years ago. Interestingly, Gerald Kelly's guide doesn't mention Tu Casa. @Sara_Dhooma stayed at the Albergue Casa Cerviño. And there is the Hotel Maite.
Keep count of your drinks. Scrutinize the bill. Check your change. Don't give them the benefit of the doubt if you discover a mistake - tell them that Raggy warned you that they were bandits.Restaurant Hotel Mar Rojo looks like a good place to eat.
I also recommend La Casa de Irene at Lubian. See my post #62 above.I have noted two suggestions from @C clearly 's virtual walk on this section. The first one is that we should stay at La Casa de Irene.
You did indeed, @Albertagirl , thank you for the recommendation!I also recommend La Casa de Irene at Lubian. See my post #62 above.
Day 55: Requejo to Lubián
I have a feeling that the construction work won’t go on forever and perhaps when it’s over, the powers that be might make some improvements - like opening up paths to take walkers away from the roads (including the route that was closed). Who knows?When this virtual walk becomes reality, should I try it?
If we can't go through Aciberos, we'll definitely have to be careful not to go through the tunnel.
Yes. The infamous elevated highway section and subsequent tunnel are both before Padornelo. Aciberos, which I haven’t walked through appears after Padornelo. It would be nice if the Camino would route through there again but I don’t know if that’s possible after the construction in the area.Just to say that the tunnel issue will arise whether or not you go through Aciberos, I think. But I am counting on @Raggy to set me straight.
Sorry to hear this. I walked it in Nov 2017 and Sept 2019 without any issue. It’s actually one of my favourite walks and I feel sorry for the road cyclists who huff and puff their way into Galicia without seeing it.Here is a warning about the route onward from Lubian, as I experienced it in 2017. I tried twice to stay on the camino route. I walked out of town on the marked camino, along a hillside, into a forest, then out on a steeply climbing grassy hill, leading up 300 m. to the Portela de la Canda, the pass into Galicia. On this hillside the trees with markers disappeared, the path disappeared, and the way forward was high grass and weeds. I could not find a way through, so eventually I turned back to town and walked along the main road, crossing over a high bridge and then through a tunnel, neither of which allowed any space for pedestrian traffic. I was squeezed against the left side of the road, with my staff held out into the roadway to mark my presence. This was late fall and a summer's worth of weeds and tall grass had made the pilgrim route impassible for me. You might consult a more recent guidebook, or forum members who had been through soon before you, for advice about this section.
I would AJ. I’ve yet to finish this section so I’m following this info.Would it be prudent to get the latest GPX tracks for the stretch between Requejo and Lubián? And beyond, judging from @Albertagirl 's experience in 2017?
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