LIVE from the Camino Voie du Littoral (France)

[roving_rufus]

Having finished the Voie des Capitales from Mont Saint Michel and then the Connector over to Royan, I am heading off on the Voie du Littoral which is also known as Voie des Anglais or Voie du Soulac. It roughly follows the west coast down to Bayonne - hence being called the Littoral. The Anglais is simply there were so many different ports that pilgrims landed on the coast and carried on on foot - not only the English but many northern Europeans too. Further information can be found on the pilgrim associations in Gironde and Landes:

Voie du Littoral en Gironde

Itinéraires officiels, hébergements, infos pratiques et culturelles de la voie Littorale

www.saint-jacques-aquitaine.com

Société Landaise des Amis de Saint Jacques et d'Études Compostellanes

Les Landes sont traversées par les 4 chemins de St Jacques de Compostelle : voie de Tours, voie du Puy, voie de Vézelay et voie du Littoral.

www.compostelle-landes.org

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I walked this route in 2006 with my father. There were very few waymarks and we mostly just guessed our way from Soulac-sur-Mer down to Bayonne. We figured that in mediaeval times pilgrims would have walked from church spire to church spire - it is very flat - but that meant going along main roads with no hard shoulder - so we didn't. The landscape has changed dramatically since medieval times, especially Les Landes, when it was one huge swamp. I think it was one of the Louis's (XIII or XIV?) who started to have it drained and planted with pine trees, to flush out the brigands that sheltered there, and one of the Napoleons (III?) who completed the task. We walked a mix of GR routes, forest paths, concrete tracks laid down by the Wehrmarcht to re-supply the bunkers along the Atlantic Wall and the magnificent stretch of beach. We were really surprised that none, and I mean none, of the Tourist Offices in any of the towns and seaside resorts had any idea about the Camino. Accommodation was only available in hotels. It was a great walk none the less, certainly a route less travelled. The food was out of this world - well it is Les Landes (oysters and other seafood, duck in all shapes and forms and if you aren't squeamish (we weren't) foie-gras. Plenty of very good wine and 'digestifs'. I'd be very interested to read how you find it nearly 20 years later.

Buen camino.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 1 Royan to Montalivet les Baines 31km
So it's just Day 1 of Voie du Littoral (I just finished up the Voie des Capitales and the Connector over to Royan which I also posted about)
I took the bac- the ferry from Royan to Pointe de Grave. In minutes of leaving the ferry I spotted my first route marker! After days of a dearth of markings on the end of the Capitales, today started with an over-abundance as they appeared at least every 500m as we followed a bike track and old railway to Soulac sur Mer.
Soulac sur Mer is a resort sort of town with old villas and modern holiday homes. But for pilgrims key is the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Fin-des-Terres a 12th century church and its history is rooted in pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. It was actually buried in sand in 18th century before being uncovered and restored in the 19th. And is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela.

Yet I headed on. There are 2 options either head to Granyon and L'Hopital which is more traditional or follow the bike route. I stuck with the bike route, and it too was marked for St Jacques. Flat, easy walking with gravel or dirt paths generally parallel to the bike track. The route does go through L'Amelie with bars, shop etc but then doesn't pass anything more until Montalivet. But it does pass Euronat campsite - it does offer a pilgrim discount but be comfortable to let it all hang out - however in the carpark there are toilets and water tap
So I am camping tonight in the municipal site- and to be honest I am going to be camping plenty this route. The accomodation lists have noticeable been shrinking- so last year there were 2 pilgrim hosts in Contaut but now none, and another campsite that had a caravan for pilgrims has been taken over by a more luxury brand and now has a minimum 2 night stay.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 2 Montalivet les Bains to Hourtin Plage

I was exhausted last night, and went to bed at 8pm and slept through to 5.20am (I think I only woke as I needed the loo)

But it gave a good early start at 6.15am. The only problem leaving so early is nothing is open and I had been too tired the night before to walk into town to shop. So it was what was left in my bag for breakfast.
We left on the main road with its bike path but after 6km the road bends inland along with bike path( if you are on a bike stay on bike path!). So the Voie Littoral goes on initially on a gravel track for 2km then a series of sandy lanes through the pines. In some places it is very soft sand and tough walking but most until Pin Sec is reasonable.
Pin Sec is basically campsites and a few wooden buildings open in summer - the small shop had high prices but I got a snack it was too early to bother going to see if a bar might be open.
Then back to sandy tracks but this time soft sand ruled - I kept thinking I had done more than I had! I was glad to see tarmac in Hourtin Plage. So this is small chilled seaside resort with houses and campsite (guess were I am staying). Slightly surfy vibe but definitely relaxed holiday vibe. Also seasonal shops - small bakery, greengrocers and small shop plus restaurants, bars and "souvenir" an beach gear shops. So now to relax for Afternoon- first pizza....then we'll see...

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I remember the 'bac' between Royan and Pointe de Grave and Soulac (no longer very much)-sur-Mer. Wasn't the whole village relocated a few kilometres inland? The tracks you describe are familiar but I have no recollection of Pin Sec or Hourtin Plage. A lot of those seaside resorts had that 'slightly surfy vibe' as I recall. And, of course, Lacanau Plage, 'Ozzygorry', Biarritz, amongst others, further on are full-blown surfing spots.

 

[JabbaPapa]

It seems to have also been part of the "normal" route from Paris between the Middle Ages and the 18th Century, from about Bordeaux onwards anyway ; and in Spain, the Parisians went down the Vasco Interior to reach the Francès at Burgos.

 

[roving_rufus]

It seems to have also been part of the "normal" route from Paris between the Middle Ages and the 18th Century, from about Bordeaux onwards anyway ; and in Spain, the Parisians went down the Vasco Interior to reach the Francès at Burgos.

It was well travelled in the past! Few pilgrims now though. But still references in places. And it seems the local region Gironde/Nouvelle Aquitaine seems keen to encourage- the route so far has been extremely well marked - in fact so many it's nearly like being on the CF or CP as not only are turns marked but they've added reassurance ones even on straight stretches.
The only issue is accomodation!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 3 Hourtin Plage to Maubuisson 24km

Up and out early as more thunderstorms are forecast (we had a bit of rain yesterday but the worst was just south of Hourtin Plage). Initially on a bike path through the forest (but with space to walk beside on gravel/dirt) - and then came a hill. Normally that wouldn't be a surprise but I haven't climbed one in days - and given the flattish nature of this area very proudly at the top was a sign with col 34m!
Then down onto a wooden boardwalk around Lagune de Contaut, which is a nature discovery walk (and nice to be out of pines too). Contaut itself has a bar but since I was barely into my walk I skipped it. Contaut is rather strange in this area as it had a military base that defined it until 2000 when it was closed but the buildings are starting to decay and get overgrown, and it's still trying to redefine itself.
The marked route now is different from my gpx and notes - I missed the turn in Contaut and later climbed up on a path to it, but it was a roller coast through sand Dunes. Possibly the old route on road to Piqueyrot and then onto path by lake is better option! And the rest of the marked route then follows the shore of the lake. Its actually a lovely walk but quite a few steep ups 50 metres and the old scrambly bit with soft sand. It just wasn't what I was expecting - it was very up and down, at times you are at lake level and sometimes up above due to steep slopes. The last bit to Bombannes is on a narrow concrete track - built by the Germans as part of their coastal fortifications in WW2 they allowed motorbikes to traverse the forests quickly and under cover of the pines.
Bombannes is campsites, youth camps, holiday camps etc with lots of wstersports. The snack bar was open, and there are toilets, picnic tables etc.
Then one last push on a path (with of course one last little hill) to Maubuisson. So this is a lake resort and quite touristy. Got some lunch, bought some things in the shop (there is also a Spar at far end of town which is a little bigger). Thankfully the campsite is €10 tonight (last night's was £25 and that is low season rate!). If you contact in advance they do have a tent bungalow available here for pilgrims but I am just camping.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 4 Maubuisson to Le Porge 27km
I ate a Jesuit today....
So I went completely off piste today. I got into the habit of getting creative with the route while on the Via Francigena in France were as it was starting to be marked as aGR route often when on strange loops. So the Voie du Littoral does one of those loops today it heads over to the coast at Lacanau-Ocean and then veers inland to Le Porge. So I instead walked along the canal between Hourtin and Lacanau lakes. The first 2km were on gravel, the rest on sandy lanes that were hard packed and easy to walk (only occasional 5m long sections of soft sand). The canal links the lake and goes through marsh - so I got to see water birds and something other than pines!
Reaching the D6 main road there is a bike path, initially parallel to the road but shortly veering off close to lake to Lacanau (Ville). There is some tar road as you go through a resort type area then appear out at the lake with picnic tables, and close to the port toilets. I kept following the bike signs but then veered into town- the bakery was calling, and I chose a Jesuite, which is an almond pastry so called due to its shape and a Jesuit hat. There was even a choice of places for coffee!
But onwards- and a long straight bike path through the forest (no road though). At least for the section until crossing main rd there was a 'path' on the verge. So after the bike paths from Pointe de Grave to Montalivet this one had a different feel- they were tourists mainly (whether just a short trip or cyclotourists on the Velodyssee) but today it was nearly all lycra-clad men whizzing by.
So in Le Porge- bit of a struggle finding accommodation (well there is the pricey hotel) couldn't get any answer from either suggestions from pilgrim accommodation list. So it's another night camping using Homecamper (I used it outside Chantonnay on Voie de Capitales 2 weeks ago as well) so I am camped in someone's back garden but this one is very well set up with toilet/shower and kitchen sink in shed.
While the section from Lacanau onwards was not exciting, the first part along canal was a good change! I am happy to save that sort of distance for a few kilometres walking on a tar bike path!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 5 Le Porge to Arès 16km
I decided after 2 weeks I needed a few shorter days. So today I decided just 15km using the bike path (there is a camino route from Le Porge but it is longer and I've heard of soft sandy tracks). Turned out the right choice- this morning we had multiple thunderstorms roll in. So left Le Porge and got 4km and there was a storm coming so veered off bike track through the forest to the village of Lauros and took shelter in a barn for nearly 2hours. Then back to bike track for 5km and another storm a-coming I took cover at a caravan park for about an hour. Then carried on into Arès. This is a more upmarket resort (as well as permanent residents) - and a struggle for most pilgrims to find accommodation with the choice of a pricey hotel or camping. It also shows in the bars and restaurants- I didn't quite fit somewhere with white tablecloths and wineglasses in my hiking shorts and t-shirt looking a bit bedraggled. I did find somewhere- I never starve- that did street food so soft tacos it was.
In case you are also thinking of inviting some intergalactic friends, Arès has declared itself an omniport- and has a model flying saucer for photos on the seafront.
I am at far end of town in Camping Goelands, and it has turned into a hazy sunny afternoon.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 6 Arès to Gujan-Mestras 15km (2+boat+13km)
So I am up to my old tricks - I am way off route! I took a stroll of 2km over to Andernos les Baines having had a lie in until 7am! I had a look at St Eloi church which the earliest parts are 11th century but has been added to multiple times including a bell tower at end of 19th century. And the neighbouring roman ruins. Then I got on a boat - the Passe Maree which goes across the bay to Arcachon (timetable is based on tides). Nice little excursion on the water! Then off at Arcachon, which is a long standing resort town with a tree lined prom, sandy beach, grand buildings and very impressive villas - there was a train line from Bordeaux which made it popular in the past especially with the wealthy.
But off the jetty I follow a GR/GRP along the shoreline, initially on the prom, through the fancy port filled with sailing yachts and boats. The rest was through salt marshes and past small ports. I did stop at one for lunch. The bay was first known for salt production now it is shellfish and especially oysters- so I treated myself to half a dozen. Several small ports around the bay you will find the old wooden fishing huts now are restaurants selling oysters.
I made it to Gujan Mestras and am in a hotel. I said yesterday this section is tricky with suitable accommodation, so I budgeted for a hotel night here (and it is very nice treat to be in a private room with ensuite!). Tomorrow after about 7km I will reconnect with the marked route.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

The bay was first known for salt production now it is shellfish and especially oysters- so I treated myself to half a dozen. Several small ports around the bay you will find the old wooden fishing huts now are restaurants selling oysters.

Very envious but in truth half a dozen just whets my appetite ;-)

What of last summer's forest fires? Is the area recovering? I guess it will take time? My nephew nearly had to call off his wedding as the fires reached just outside Arcachon. The brunch was due to be at the foot of the Dune du Pilat but that whole grove of trees and the 'guinguette' were deemed unsafe by the authorities.

Are the storks around? I was (and still am) mesmerized by these birds and their nesting habits. I saw many in Spain on La Ruta de la Lana just a few weeks ago so I'm assuming it's the nesting season? I hope the fires didn't destroy their nests and habitat?

Buen camino/bon chemin. Keep the daily updates coming.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 7 Gujan Mestras to Sanguinet 19km
So I slept solidly last night until my alarm at 6.15am (a bit of a lie in). Had breakfast at hotel (it was raining heavily so it wasn't wasted time). The first 2km were on dirt paths in the trees but right by the motorway. Then onto a bike path, under motorway and out through a light industry/business area. Then onto a one way road (I was walking facing the traffic- not too much but enough). After 5km I veered off on a track and shortly reached the marked route alongside a canal. Take heed of the info in the guide notes from the local association as you have to walk on right hand side as the lane on left ends, and that there is no shade! Thankfully it was early and overcast, but the sandy/earth lane had plenty of grass and my feet were soon wet. You eventually reach a main rd which was busy and then onto a path along the perimeter fence of a military base. All along the canal I could hear helicopters, and now ut was jets taking off and landing as I walked the fence. (This section was a bit overgrown probably because the Landes section of the Voie du Littoral was closed for 9 months and reopened in May). After a few kilometres you turn onto a track with a nice welcome to Landes sign from the local pelerin association and some shade! Then onwards but the last 1km of track was quite sandy but also flooded with multiple big puddles with several the width of track so no option but to get feet wet (there were ditches on both sides of track so no way to avoid).
Into Sanguinet, first to the lake which makes it a popular holiday destination and then into the centre. Picked up keys from the Tourist Office for the pilgrim gite- (do ring in advance they even speak English!). Its in the parish hall beside the church - 2 beds and a campbed, a mini-kitchenette with sink, fridge, microwave, kettle and one cooker ring even some food items donated by the parish. Only niggle is toilet and shower are outside but they are kept locked so only for use of pilgrims but there is hot water. Keys can be left with donation in the letterbox of the mairie. It's amazing to have such a place to stay!

 

[Kirkie]

Day 7 Gujan Mestras to Sanguinet 19km
So I slept solidly last night until my alarm at 6.15am (a bit of a lie in). Had breakfast at hotel (it was raining heavily so it wasn't wasted time). The first 2km were on dirt paths in the trees but right by the motorway. Then onto a bike path, under motorway and out through a light industry/business area. Then onto a one way road (I was walking facing the traffic- not too much but enough). After 5km I veered off on a track and shortly reached the marked route alongside a canal. Take heed of the info in the guide notes from the local association as you have to walk on right hand side as the lane on left ends, and that there is no shade! Thankfully it was early and overcast, but the sandy/earth lane had plenty of grass and my feet were soon wet. You eventually reach a main rd which was busy and then onto a path along the perimeter fence of a military base. All along the canal I could hear helicopters, and now ut was jets taking off and landing as I walked the fence. (This section was a bit overgrown probably because the Landes section of the Voie du Littoral was closed for 9 months and reopened in May). After a few kilometres you turn onto a track with a nice welcome to Landes sign from the local pelerin association and some shade! Then onwards but the last 1km of track was quite sandy but also flooded with multiple big puddles with several the width of track so no option but to get feet wet (there were ditches on both sides of track so no way to avoid).
Into Sanguinet, first to the lake which makes it a popular holiday destination and then into the centre. Picked up keys from the Tourist Office for the pilgrim gite- (do ring in advance they even speak English!). Its in the parish hall beside the church - 2 beds and a campbed, a mini-kitchenette with sink, fridge, microwave, kettle and one cooker ring even some food items donated by the parish. Only niggle is toilet and shower are outside but they are kept locked so only for use of pilgrims but there is hot water. Keys can be left with donation in the letterbox of the mairie. It's amazing to have such a place to stay!

I just love your sunny nature, despite the rain and the puddles...

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 8 Sanguinet to St Paul en Born
I finally met another pilgrim! In the comment book in the pilgrim gite in Sanguinet was a guy a day ahead...well I caught up to him today about 6km before my destination.
I left just before 5am, dropped keys in the letter box at the mairie. I left under the stars, with torch and reflective gear. The first bit was on road, but then on forest tracks with mist forming around me. First light saw this mysterious forest dropped in must. Unfortunately then more road - and the rest of the way to Parentis en Born was me versus the morning rush hour - no traffic jams just lots of traffic. After 19km I reached Parentis. Today there are 3stopping options
1- Parentis 19km (campsite, chambre d'hotes, hotel)
2- Gastes 28km offroute
3-St Paul 36km pilgrim gite (or hotel)

As I was going strong, a coffee and pastry in the bakery fueled me onwards in Parentis. Leaving town was on a bike path but this soon was a shadeless bike path by a busy main road for 5km - not delightful!

Then came option number 2 whether to detour to Gastes but I was still feeling up to another 12km especially as it was all on tracks. I did take a more direct track to cut 1km than the marked route. Long and straight. The maison forest iere with its old watchtower provided a bit of relief and deep shade for a rest. Then more track - and I could see this figure sitting by the track up ahead...momentarily nervous I discovered a young French pilgrim finishing his lunch. So we walked the last 6km together which were more shaded thankfully given the noon hour. Arrived in St Paul en Born and off to the mairie and the pilgrim gite. Its small but a small kitchen with coffee machine, 2 cooker rings, microwave and fridge. There is a shower. And a single bunkbed (plus a spare mattress).
But the shop is closed for 2 weeks for their annual holidays but the lady in the mairie rang the restaurant for a table for 1.30 so I am completely full and planning an afternoon nap after my long walk and big lunch!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Ah !! It's part of your Camino from Ireland.

Really should have the Camino from Home tag ...

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 9 St Paul en Born to Contis Plage 27km
Nice to spend time with another pilgrim but we have different plans for next few days. But it did mean that I didn't get up as early so in order not to disturb him. But I left about 6.10 at sunrise, though a bit earlier would have been better as it is hot and sunny today at least 30°C and finishing by noon is essential.
Today started on a bike path on an old railway some beside the road but others away on its own. Mizimam Bourg was next stop for a bakery and to at least see the outside of a Unesco belltower with St James links. It's also the spot for a nice shell statue with 1000km to go sign! The nearby cemetery does have a tap.
From Mimizan there are 2 options - the marked Voie Littoral to Bias and Lit-et-Mixe or the Velodyssee bike path closer to the coast. Truthfully the decision was made by the possible accommodation stops. I didn't want another +30km day (especially given weather) or a short day. So the Velodyssee to Contis Plage at 27km made sense.
Of course leaving Mimizan you are reminded that not all the camino is pretty as we passed a large paper mill but that only makes sense given the amount of commercial forestry there is here in Landes.
I did take a detour onto some lanes as the bike path heads closer to river. I joined the Velodyssee at Maison Forestiere de Leslurges (there is water tap!). But immediately I veered onto a parallel lane for 4km until shortly before the area at Plage Lespecier. But then it was mainly walking on the tarred bike path (there were a few more short sections of parallel lanes). But it was getting hot, and even if under pines they don't give alot of shade (though better than none). About 1km before my destination I knew I had to stop rather than push on as I was getting a bit too hot. Yet I easily then got to Contis Plage having cooled off a bit.
It's too hot for the beach at the moment. I decided to find a restaurant and get inside for an hour or two before heading out to the campsite. The campsite have special Velodyssee rates which is €10 in June, so I don't feel too bad splashing out on lunch! But I think given the heat I will skip climbing the lighthouse.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Stay with Peter Saborowski at Villa Souvenir in Léon. Highly recommended. If you do ,say hello from Paul from Australia. I’ve stayed 3 times there.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 10 Contis Plage to Moliets-et-Maa 30km
Left just before 6am, and onto the Velodyssee bike path through the woods. Saw a wild boor a little out of the village. After 9km I reached Yons with its source - a spring long thought to have medicinal properties. Here I rejoined the marked route and moved onto a track (parallel to the bike path). 6km later came crossroads at St Girons Plage (there are campsites here for a shorter day), then 1.5km to another maison forestiere, before more track beside the Velodyssee bike path.
Unfortunately I couldn't take the marked route as a footbridge was closed (due to reopen later in 2023) at La Nasse on West side of the Etang de Leon (lake). So the choices were to follow the Velodyssee on the east side of the lake to Leon, or the shorter option of following the Velodyssee to a road junction and onto D328 with 2km of bike path and 6km of road walking. I decided on the second option- the road was busy enough but there were lots of cyclists and other pedestrians. The road route to Moliets-et-Maa cut about 5km off but not to be recommended if the bridge is open! I also missed a chapel that dates to C12th and was relayed to Templiars and pilgrims when this was a well travelled route! (But it is rarely open).
So in Aire Naturelle de Franc on edge of Moliets-et-Maa on a farm. Very chilled and relaxed (much more so than the big campsites I stayed at in Contis and Hortin Plages). It has special pilgrim rates for camping and and for rooms as well.

Today was probably my least favourite day of walking. But it may have been I felt a little subpar, and the last 6km of road didn't help either, nor passing through anywhere for a coffee (it is possible to detour in Cap de l'Homy or St Girons Plage but it added mileage). And maybe it's just I am drawing to an end with Bayonne approaching soon.

 

[roving_rufus]

Stay with Peter Saborowski at Villa Souvenir in Léon. Highly recommended. If you do ,say hello from Paul from Australia. I’ve stayed 3 times there.

I kept to the other side of the lake so missed Leon. But good to hear of another accomodation option!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 11 Moliets-et-Maa to Hossegor 30km
Woke at 5.20, and heard the cock crow on the farm as the day started to get that grey light. Tent down and breakfasted before heading off just before 6am. Its grey and overcast so no sunrise to see this morning.
Walked through town and picked up the route markings at the church (toilets) then into square at mairie and fronton court (definitely getting further south!). Then off onto a series of paths and lanes through woods (not pine!), past fount & lavoir, by ponds but of course back to pine forest. There was about 500m of soft sand climbing up and down a small hill that took some effort, and given it was warm and humid I got a bit sweaty, otherwise the rest was lovely walking on earth paths.
Today I am describing as like walking the camino frances but French resort style - though there were no other pilgrims there was a bar at least every 5-6km, which was a definite change from the last 3 weeks! So after first 6km I reached the outer limits of Messanges at a campsite with bar and shop which open at 8am- I was a little too early, but I was happy to get some more kilometres in before 2nd breakfast.
The next bit was on tracks through pines to the edge of the next town. Thankfully there were gravel pathways through a good proportion of Vieux Boucau les Baines. And it was market day- only a few early birds out in this resort town, but some quiche and fruit gave me a perfect picnic for 2nd breakfast looking out at the tidal lagoon.
But then the walking conditions were less than great - onto a bike path beside a main road. Tar and traffic noise- so for the first time this trip in went a headphone (only one so I could still hear any bikes) and on went some upbeat music. After 6km at a campsite I stopped at their bar for a coffee- more just to escape the road for a bit than any need!
Soon enough I was in Seignosse. Got my credential stamped in the tourist office and headed to look for coffee- found cute cafe called Cocooning Coffee - Madame ushered me to a big squishy sofa and I had a cappuccino (so many bars in France have fancy coffee machines but they only know how to do espresso or a long black coffee). It was hard to move from the sofa.
As it was nearly noon, I decided to get another couple of kilometres in before stopping for lunch. This whole area is built up right through to Capbreton tomorrow. Many of the restaurants in these resorts are burgers or pizza, a few places with poke bowls are springing up though which sounded a better option today. (There are some pricey restaurants but I look rough and it's Monday s they tend not to be open)
Having filled my tummy I headed down to the beach. I walked 1/2km on the beach but the tide had just turned and there was little hard sand to walk on and had a decent camber - so at next point I could get off I did. But this left me walking on road bike paths ust behind the dunes to Hossegor. One piece of advice at Hossegor is to ignore the camino signs and instead take the seafront path! Unfortunately they were working on this in preparation for July/August so many machines, workmen and noise, and most businesses were shut- which was disappointing as I was promising myself ice-cream as I was at beach.
Accomodation options in Seignosse and Hossegor are limited- these are towns with holiday houses and apartments plus holiday resorts. There are some surf hostels a few of which take one night bookings. So I am in Jo&Joe hostel in a dorm for €30 but it was the cheapest option! It was previously some sort of holiday complex that got rundown and is now a hostel with multiple buildings and a huge garden area.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 12 Hossegor to Bayonne 25km
Last day! I was out at 6am heading to the marina, which the marked route follows then on paths beside the river into the centre of Cap Breton. I was miffed as the bakery that said on Google maps opens at 6am actually opens at 7am and told Madame in the boulagerie to change it!
I still had some food in my bag so although no croissant I had some breakfast.
Out the far side of town it was onto dirt paths in the woods. But reaching a picnic area I decided not to follow the marked route but to follow a dirt path along right sde of river to next bridge and at next footbridge switch sides to a bike path into Labenne Ocean. Here I found an open bakery that had coffee and a terrace- perfect for a second breakfast!
I continued on by the river to the next footbridge which when crossed reconnected with the marked route. There was a path or track parallel to the tar bike path from now to the next village - Ondres which has a shop and a train station. (If you don't want an urban walk this is perfect stop to catch the train).
Then walking beside road to the edge of Tarnos, which is really the edge of the city now. The marked route heads out to the cost at Tarnos Plage and then veers back in. I couldn't see the point of that deviation - and I think I read in the old CSJ guide to the Voie Littoral (no idea were as I don't have a paper copy or a pdf of it but it must have been uploaded somewhere) that it was possible to cross the main rd at the roundabout turn off left and immediately turn left onto a suburban street Rue Paul Gauguin. So I did the suburban walk which basically parallels the railway line to Boucau. Its not a great route but it cuts off 4km compared to the loop of the marked route, but isn't unpleasant. Then the rejoin at Boucau, and this is walking the street right beside the railway fr a few kilometres until climbing up to road bridge to cross the railway and then the river bridge. The signs petered out here but its not to hard to find you way to tge cathedral. I made it at 11.50 - the local amis have a pilgrim welcome in the cathedral from 9-12noon Monday to Saturday so I just made it and got my stamp from them. I also asked for a restaurant suggestion which was le chistera. Lucky I arrived at 12noon and was first seated as it wasn't long with lots of prebookings that it was full. As I have finished the Voie du Littoral I am treating myself to a hotel tonight (I still have money in the budget as I budgeted more for the Voie du Littoral due to its holiday vibe than I actually spent).

 

[mspath]

roving_rufus,
Félicitations !
Glad to read that today you have arrived in Bayonne. Staying tonight in a hotel should be a comfy pleasure after your long walks south.
Carpe diem!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Today I am describing as like walking the camino frances but French resort style - though there were no other pilgrims there was a bar at least every 5-6km, which was a definite change from the last 3 weeks!

The coastal Via Romea between Menton and Genova is, with rare exceptions, a 200K long beachside promenade.

Soon enough I was in Seignosse. Got my credential stamped in the tourist office and headed to look for coffee- found cute cafe called Cocooning Coffee - Madame ushered me to a big squishy sofa and I had a cappuccino (so many bars in France have fancy coffee machines but they only know how to do espresso or a long black coffee).

Some French bars only do black coffee, but it's pretty rare -- most will either do a café au lait (with warmed milk) or a crème (frothy steamed milk).

It's rare to find a good cappuccino outside Italy, but pounce on it when you do !!

Congrats on finishing this portion !!

 

[roving_rufus]

Some reflections on Voie Littoral
1- Route Markings
Amazing! I didn't get lost once, even in some of the maze of paths through woods. In Gironde it was A-plus - easy to see and abundant (lots of reassurant ones even on straight stretches). In Landes may A/A-minus as a few junctions had missing signs or difficult to spot ones, and the signs around Hossegor had become bleached of colour so we're impossible to spot. Definitely worth downloading notes and gpx tracks from the Amis/pelerin associations.

2- Accomodation
Here is the issue with the route. The Amis have put together lists but there are some difficulties. Hourtin Plage/Contaut is now an issue as an elderly lady who was a long standing pilgrim host is no longer available. The campsite in Hourtin Plage is 5* resort type place not overly set up for one night stays, with a high season rate of €56 and €25 for low. In many towns there are chambre d'hotes or hotels but these are pricey given the holiday location. Currently I would say it is tricky and expensive without a tent. Two exceptions of note are the great donativo pilgrim gites in Sanguinet and Saint Paul en Born- one parish, the other municipal.

3- the route
Easy walking as relatively flat with gentle slopes. The only day I found taxing was from Hourtin Plage to Maubuisson- the new marked route from Contaut follows a GR with some sand dune type hills, I would suggest following the old route on the road to Piqueyrot then join the marked route along the lake, as even this lake path will give you enough workout of ups and downs! I would take againthe more direct route from Maubuisson to La Porge and Arès along the canal and bike path on old railway (away from roads). There are a few shortcuts here and there to avoid some loops, that is personal choice, and distance and time constraints. I probably won't take the Velodyssee from Mimizan to Contis Plage again but it suited with distance and accomodation.
Finding water was trickier - less cemeteries ! And in several places water taps have been removed due to influx of camper vans (such as in Contis Plage). I did carry 1 &1/2 litres and mostly did okay but did stop at the naturist campsite between Le Gurp and Montalivet to refill. And if I did stop in a bar or bakery I asked them to refill.
Lots of forest and woods - with some mosquitos in them. Some insect repellent is advisable but in one I got attacked by a cloud of them, so some topical treatment for bites is necessary!

4- pilgrims
They are few and far between! I met one at Saint Paul en Born, but as he was wild camping except for the donativo pilgrim gites I may never have crossed paths with him. I did meet some nice cyclotourists at campsites etc but they were doing the Velodyssee. You will definitely need a book and something to journal in to pass the time!

5- costs
So this goes through lots of little resorts on the west coast which have a range of styles from hippy surfer vibes to quite upmarket (Arcachon bay). These tend to be pricier areas. The small shops in the resort towns charge alot more. But generally the bakeries are similar prices. Its worth doing some shopping in the bigger spots including Soulac, Montalivet, Mizimam, Sanguinet, Parentis-en-Born etc. I had budgeted more for this section than on the Voie des Capitales, including for a hotel night around the Arcachon bay. I did better than I originally thought- apart from 2 campsites the others were about €10- Hourtin Plage and Ares were €25 & €19.50 respectively. I did sometimes eat at lunchtime in a restaurant with a fixed menu in the range of €16-€18.50, but also cooked myself on my little alcohol stove other days. But alot of the resort town tended to have more pizza or burger type places, except the more upmarket Arcachon Bay. I had enough left in budget for a hotel in Bayonne. Try to include some budget for oysters around Arcachon!

6- time of year to walk
This is probably only a route for May to October as so much closes up for winter. I also wouldn't walk in high season of July and August as you will be "fighting" with tourists for accomodation and space on bike paths with less experienced cyclists (cyclotourists were fine but I did meet folks with day hire bikes who probably hadn't been on a bike in years).

7 - personal
I found this a bit lonelier than the Voie des Capitales that I connected from, maybe it was just a different vibe with all the holiday resorts rather than permanent residents.
Definitely needed to carry plenty of food and water.
I think I enjoy up to 3 nights camping with my lightweight kit but the fourth night I don't so much. So I was glad to mix in some other accomodation with actual beds! If I was going to camp more I would have to upsize my current 3/4 size Thermorest inflatable to a full length. I carried an alcohol stove - very easy to get alcool à brûlee in supermarkets at 90% which is perfect but bring a smaller fuel bottle to decant into as its a 1litre bottle! (Trying to find an outdoor shop that carry the smaller gas canisters takes time- while the campingaz ones are bigger and heavier but more easily acquired in supermarkets and hardware shops etc ).
Finding plug sockets to charge my phone was possible at campsites (Maubuisson was actually very difficult - it took me a while to find one). I think I would carry a small powerbank next time that I could chance leaving to charge rather than my phone.

 

[StewartJ]

I'm currently in St Paul en Born having walked from the UK and the record of your three trips have been very useful. Thank you!

I wish I had taken more notice of your warning about insect repellant!

I hope you inspire more people to follow the pilgrim routes through France. It has been a challenging walk, for all the reasons you have highlighted, but I am so glad I did it.

 

[roving_rufus]

I'm currently in St Paul en Born having walked from the UK and the record of your three trips have been very useful. Thank you!

I wish I had taken more notice of your warning about insect repellant!

I hope you inspire more people to follow the pilgrim routes through France. It has been a challenging walk, for all the reasons you have highlighted, but I am so glad I did it.

Hope you are enjoying France despite a few difficulties including mozzies. Glad my notes proved useful! And hopefully a few more will venture out camino-ing in western France!