Walking the Northern Route in September

[RodneyK]

Hi,

I'm walking the Northern Route from Hondarribia to Santander in September this year. My first Camino! I'm looking forward to it. It's been in the planning for about twenty years since I first heard about the Camino Frances. So, finally it's happening.

The questions and comments that have been posted here are very helpful. There's quite a community feel, which is fantastic.

I've been doing lots of research and I've bought the guide books from the CStJ. My plan is to do the walk over about 17 days, including rest days in San Sebastian, Bilbao and Guernica. I'll be averaging about 19-20 kms each day. I'm not in a hurry. My main goals are to do the walk and to get a feel for the country and its people.

I'd appreciate hearing any general advice from anyone who has walked the Northern Route and anything specific about weather conditions and particularly up-to-date information about albergues.

I aim to travel light; my backpack is a 40l one. And I'm in training, particularly to 'harden up' my feet.

Thanks for your help. I'm looking forward to hearing any advice.

Cheers,
Rodney
Brisbane, Australia

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Rodney,

I walked the Camino del Norte in June 2006, and it was as beautiful as you might imagine a walk along the northern coast of Spain would be. Checking my notes, I see that we walked from Irun to Santander in 12 days, and we weren't really pushing things, so with your three stops you'll still have some wiggle room. I described my stages on this post if you're interested:

el-camino-del-norte/topic2829.html

I'm sure the albergue supply has increased since I was there, but we did stay in some memorable ones in the section you'll be walking. A few km outside of San Sebastian, you'll come to Jose Mari's house (which is well advertised with signs). Stop there and he will surely have all the up to date information on albergues along the way. He's very kind and helpful, one of those camino characters you will remember.

Based on my now ancient history memories, I'd highlight these places:

The albergue in Orio is small, private, and very comfortable.

I think Zarautz has recently inaugurated an albergue.

The albergue in Deva is small, smelly, and uncomfortable looking. We didn't stay there so I can't tell you whether those three story bunk beds were as nasty as they looked.

Zenarruza -- I stayed in the albergue at the monastery, which is in a very peaceful, green setting. It's small (for 14-16, I think), and though they bring food to the pilgrims for both the evening and morning meals, it's a good idea to bring some of your own from the town of Merkina. One of the monks told me that they are stretched pretty thin and that pilgrims don't always respond to their requests for donativos. There is also a big private albergue across the street, it looked huge, but it was closed when I was there.

Gernika's albergue looked very nice, but opens late so we opted for an in-town pension. The museum here is very interesting.

Guemes -- a "must do" stop. Albergue with communal meal, big fire in the fireplace (roaring in June, it was chilly). You are invited upstairs for a post-dinner service, during which the hospitalero explains his mission. He's not really focused on the Camino, but his location has inevitably meant that that's where the traffic comes from. He will also give you a good map/instructions on how to do the coastal walk -- take him up on the offer, it's a beautiful walk.

September sounds like a very good month to walk the Norte -- you will miss the tourism crunch, but still have long days and a chance to get some good weather.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jl]

Hi Rodney, there is going to quite a crowd of us there on the Del Norte in September. Omar will be just ahead of you and Alan from NSW and I from the Adelaide Hills will also be there in Sept. I will be coming down from Vezelay and aim to finish about the 28th in Santiago. Sing out if you need and OZ slant on gear etc. happy planning, Janet

 

[RodneyK]

Hi Laurie and Janet,
Thank you for all that wonderful information. I'll have to go through it. I'm looking forward to the variety of accommodation. Hopefully I won't change my mind. It's all part of the adventure after all.

Laurie, your detailed diary is great and the photos are fantastic. I feel even more inspired.

Janet, Thanks for letting me know you'll be travelling and a few others. I've got my backpack and shoes. I think I'm set up for gear, but... I'll sing out if something crops up.

I've spoken with a woman here in Brisbane who walked the Camino Frances a couple of years ago and she has some useful suggestions. I'll post those and anything else I find out.

Cheers,
Rodney