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LIVE from the Camino Walking the Primitivo from 3 Oct 19.

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
I started on the Olvidado (a fantastic camino) on 19 September and got to Buiza on 30 September. That ‘live’ thread can be found the Olvidado part of the forum. I joined the San Salvador at Buiza and arrived in Oviedo on 2 October ready to start the Primitivo on the 3rd. The ‘live’ thread for the San Salvador is in that part of the forum.
I’ll try and post here each day for the Primitivo.
 

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CdnDreamer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (12, 15 & 18) San Salvador (18), Portuguese (19)
I will be following along. How are you able to walk such long distances over mountains? I'm from a very flat part of Canada, and it took me 9 days to do the Salvador and almost every day I walked for 8 hours.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
I will be following along. How are you able to walk such long distances over mountains? I'm from a very flat part of Canada, and it took me 9 days to do the Salvador and almost every day I walked for 8 hours.
I’m very stubborn! I tend to average 5.7km per hour if it’s flattish. On the steepest parts it drops to about 4.6km per hour ( didn’t know this until this year when I used Wikiloc!). Old man determination to stay young!!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I started on the Olvidado (a fantastic camino) on 19 September and got to Buiza on 30 September. That ‘live’ thread can be found the Olvidado part of the forum. I joined the San Salvador at Buiza and arrived in Oviedo on 2 October ready to start the Primitivo on the 3rd. The ‘live’ thread for the San Salvador is in that part of the forum.
I’ll try and post here each day for the Primitivo.

If we blink you will be in Santiago. Let me guess — you will shoot for Salas tomorrow. Buen camino!
 

Stripey Socks

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances '13, Via de la Plata '14, Portuguese '16, Via Francigena - Italy '18, Madrid Combo'20
I will be following along too...hoping to gather some intell for my own Primitivo in June next year. Thanks. Mel
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Look out for me! I’ve a fluorescent green & blue backpack, heading to Salas tomorrow!
I’m the old man with an old army camouflage rucksack. Currently in AdP La Campa in Sallas looking forward to a vegetarian meal. Not the I’m a veggie but it’s always hard to get vegetables on the camino.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Oviedo to Sallas 48km
A good start to the Primitivo. First day really revealed how different it is to the San Salvador and the Olvidado. I passed 3 times more peregrinos on my way here today than I saw in my last 2 weeks! Lots of places to stop for a coffee and even vending machines on the way to get a cold drink! Plenty of options where to stay and as it was only 1200 when I got to Grado there was no point stopping there. Kept going to Cornellana but it was still a little early so decided to head for Sallas. It was a very pleasant walk and very misty until just before midday and then it was another clear blue sky day. I think about 40 percent was on roads but there were mostly very minor ones so virtually no traffic. Let’s see what tomorrow offers.
 

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LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
Met up with alipilgrim and always great to meet a member from the forum. Even better is that Alison has a smaller appetite than me so I got extra veggies!
And she has friends with contacts... Your bed is sorted for tomorrow night 😁 the dinner here was very good too!
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
And she has friends with contacts... Your bed is sorted for tomorrow night 😁 the dinner here was very good too!
Thank you very much. Love it when the forum really connects. Thanks for your help. Where are you heading today? We may meet before the end!
 

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
Thank you very much. Love it when the forum really connects. Thanks for your help. Where are you heading today? We may meet before the end!
We're slow so you will for sure 😂 la Mesa today and Grandas tomorrow. Me and hubby... I've got red hair and a red pack 😂
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Salas to Samblismo 38km
Sunrise is getting later and there is only just enough light to start walking at 0800 if like this morning there are no city lights. Tried to explain to the 2 perigrinos I passed as we left Salas that they would be better off switching off their head lights and allowing their night vision to compensate them they would see all around them instead of just their cone of light. Their lights were like car headlights and spoilt my night vision until I could get more than 200m past them. The day was overcast and cloudy which added to the gloom. In fact it stayed misty all day except when the path dropped a bit lower occasionally to get below the mist. At times the mist was so heavy water was dropping out of it! Visibility dropped to less than 50m at times so I have no idea what the scenery was like. However, it was a good track with a bit of a climb from Salas and little time on tarmac. A farmer that I passed just after El Espin said something to me and I first thought he was saying something about Boris (as in Johnson) and wondered what he had done now to catch the attention of a Spanish farmer. However, I soon realised he was asking if I was stopping at Borres or Campiello! I said no and he then asked what route I was taking tomorrow and I explained it depended on the weather. He then assured me tomorrow would be fine. Choice tomorrow is either the the lowerish Pola route or the Hospitalis route that goes past 2 very old pilgrim stops. I plant to take the Hospitalis ( of course!), but in the end it’s weather dependent.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
We're slow so you will for sure 😂 la Mesa today and Grandas tomorrow. Me and hubby... I've got red hair and a red pack 😂
Looking at the next few days it looks like I’ll stay in la Mesa tomorrow and then Fonsagrada.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Samblismo to La Mesa 28km
Last nights Albergue was excellent. Most impressive was the superb evening meal and the wonderful breakfast that included freshly baked bread. He could add to his income by selling sandwiches for the next day (and bread making courses)! The Albergue is also situated ideally as it’s on the Pola route and the hospitalas path is less the 100m straight out the door. After the great breakfast I left at 0815 and headed up the hospitalas route. There was still some mist but it looked like it would clear quite quickly. The walk on this route is not at all difficult and it could not have been marked better if someone had drawn a yellow line along the whole way. The mist did clear before the first peak and the views were lovely. Unfortunately, the mist dropped down again after that and visibility dropped to 50m or so at some times. During one of these times I heard suddenly something running quickly from behind towards me. This made my heart beat a little faster. Turned out it was a dog that had followed another couple into the Albergue last night. He stayed with me for about 10 km and obviously knew the camino well. It was a lovely walk overall with very little time on road and a great stretch through a forest of Scots pine towards the end. Just like the previous day the mist cleared away about 40 mins before the end of the walk and now it’s a clear blue sky. I had expected it to be 30km to here but it was a little shorter and a lot shorter than my preference. However, this is a wonderful Albergue with a washing machine and dryer so it’s a great opportunity to get properly clean clothes again. Also the next opportunities to stop are 11km and then another 5km away and although it would have been doable all it would achieve is to make tomorrow shorter as the choices thereafter are limited. Did I mention there is a pool here as well? Pity it’s a little chilly. Probably off to Fonsagrada tomorrow.
 

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LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
Mike you're catching us! We'll be in Foncegrada tomorrow too. We walked the same route as you to La Mesa... But is thick fog and rain yesterday. Hostel Miguelin is fabulous... Dinner was equally excellent too!

I think we spotted that doggie en route to Tineo. He was walking with two women but he wasn't theirs, he just followed. I hope he finds his home!
 

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
@MikeJS which albergues did you stay in in Samblismo and La Mesa?
In Samblismo there is only one and that’s it’s nam. In La Mesa I’m in Albergue Miguelin that has lots of beds and there is a very good municipal as well. Feel free to ask any other questions.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Mike you're catching us! We'll be in Foncegrada tomorrow too. We walked the same route as you to La Mesa... But is thick fog and rain yesterday. Hostel Miguelin is fabulous... Dinner was equally excellent too!

I think we spotted that doggie en route to Tineo. He was walking with two women but he wasn't theirs, he just followed. I hope he finds his home!
People at this Albergue know the dogs owner and have called him to come and collect it. Evidently he likes this a lot. He lives about 80 km away!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2017), Primitivo (2019)
Samblismo to La Mesa 28km
Last nights Albergue was excellent. Most impressive was the superb evening meal and the wonderful breakfast that included freshly baked bread. He could add to his income by selling sandwiches for the next day (and bread making courses)! The Albergue is also situated ideally as it’s on the Pola route and the hospitalas path is less the 100m straight out the door. After the great breakfast I left at 0815 and headed up the hospitalas route. There was still some mist but it looked like it would clear quite quickly. The walk on this route is not at all difficult and it could not have been marked better if someone had drawn a yellow line along the whole way. The mist did clear before the first peak and the views were lovely. Unfortunately, the mist dropped down again after that and visibility dropped to 50m or so at some times. During one of these times I heard suddenly something running quickly from behind towards me. This made my heart beat a little faster. Turned out it was a dog that had followed another couple into the Albergue last night. He stayed with me for about 10 km and obviously knew the camino well. It was a lovely walk overall with very little time on road and a great stretch through a forest of Scots pine towards the end. Just like the previous day the mist cleared away about 40 mins before the end of the walk and now it’s a clear blue sky. I had expected it to be 30km to here but it was a little shorter and a lot shorter than my preference. However, this is a wonderful Albergue with a washing machine and dryer so it’s a great opportunity to get properly clean clothes again. Also the next opportunities to stop are 11km and then another 5km away and although it would have been doable all it would achieve is to make tomorrow shorter as the choices thereafter are limited. Did I mention there is a pool here as well? Pity it’s a little chilly. Probably off to Fonsagrada tomorrow.
The albergue at La Mesa IS a nice one....but the green stagnant pool, did not attract
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
La Mesa to Fonsagrada 42 km
The Albergue last night was good but the food selection was very limited. Easy for me as I like a hearty cabbage soup and stewed goat However, it was plentiful and good. It was quite busy last night and about 14 of the 16 beds in the room I was in were occupied. Unfortunately, it appeared to be by a national snoring orchestra and one woman played the bass trombone notes all night. Misty when I got up this morning and the Albergue was totally disorganised as far as breakfast was concerned so I just started walking at 0745 when there was just enough light. It’s a steady climb out from the Albergue and then a long descent down to the embalse. Then of course there was a long hike back up again. In fact it’s pretty much up hill all the way - even the last 1km is up a steep hill. The mist cleared by the afternoon and it stayed like that for the rest of the day. A pleasant day that in parts were like strolling through the English countryside, just with noisier cows. Staying in pension Manolo tonight to avoid the snoring. Plan to head for Vila de Cas tomorrow
 

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alipilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Listed in my signature
Hi Mike,

I’m in La Mesa tonight. Probably 2/3 full and had delicious beef for dinner! Walked the Hospitales today, fully encased in mist the whole way, only clearing really by 2pm and Berducedo. Will try an easy day to Castro tomorrow. Nice to catch up with you in Salas!

Buen Camino
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Hi Mike,

I’m in La Mesa tonight. Probably 2/3 full and had delicious beef for dinner! Walked the Hospitales today, fully encased in mist the whole way, only clearing really by 2pm and Berducedo. Will try an easy day to Castro tomorrow. Nice to catch up with you in Salas!

Buen Camino
Just leaving Fonsagrada now. Still looking out for Colleen!
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Fonsagrada to Vilar de Cas 39km
Pension Manolo was great last night and the food was excellent. They served food from 1900 to 2200, much to the disappointment of Coleen when I met her and her husband just outside of Fonsagrada as they couldn’t find anything to eat before 2100ish. A lovely walk again today and the sun was out all day. There are a couple of stiff climbs in the early part but thereafter fairly easy. Now staying at the Hostel A Pocina de Muniz - google it - an outstanding Albergue and Hostel. It’s 14 euros for an Albergue bed and the room is magnificent. I’ve been in many 5 star hotels that don’t have the style of this place. There is also dinner on site, so happy days. I’ve just booked my flight back to uk for 12 Oct and unfortunately there seems to be no direct flights so I’ve got to go via Barcelona and have a 5 hour stopover.
 

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MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
A few extra photos to try to show how good this Albergue is. For those who know them, it’s like a Relais Hotel. And I’m the only one here.
 

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MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Vilar de Cas to Ferreira 42km
The Hostal A Pocina de Muniz that I stayed in last night was outstanding. The place was the quality of a 5 star hotel and if I was passing that way with my wife I’d make an effort to stay there. They have private double rooms for 50 euros and the complete place was amazing. Got up to light mist today that gradually turned to drizzle and then 3 hours of rain that necessitated getting the poncho out. However, it cleared up for the last 2 hours of the walk. And that pretty much describes the hike. Dull for the most part with about 80% tarmac but got better for the last section. Now staying in Albergue Nave de Ferreira which seems ok at the moment. Off to Arzua tomorrow and Santiago de Compostela the next day.
 

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
Vilar de Cas to Ferreira 42km
The Hostal A Pocina de Muniz that I stayed in last night was outstanding. The place was the quality of a 5 star hotel and if I was passing that way with my wife I’d make an effort to stay there. They have private double rooms for 50 euros and the complete place was amazing. Got up to light mist today that gradually turned to drizzle and then 3 hours of rain that necessitated getting the poncho out. However, it cleared up for the last 2 hours of the walk. And that pretty much describes the hike. Dull for the most part with about 80% tarmac but got better for the last section. Now staying in Albergue Nave de Ferreira which seems ok at the moment. Off to Arzua tomorrow and Santiago de Compostela the next day.
We're a day behind already... Staying at Nave tonight. Buen camino Pilgrim 🚶🍷☀
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Ferreira to Arzua 35 km
Last nights Albergue was fine although the much touted paella was very average- I should have gone for the veggie option. Clear sky this morning although the mist hung around in the low ground until late morning. Lovely trek to Melide this morning which was mostly without other peregrinos in sight. However, this obviously changed once the Camino Primitivo met the Camino Francis. Then it was just one long line of noisy pilgrims clicking away with their sticks. However, the day was nice and I’m in a great Albergue called Via Lactea which is very clean, comfortable and well organised. Off the SdC tomorrow which is about 39kms away. This should work out well as I’ll pass most of the peregrinos from here and others will stop before SdC which should mean my last few kms will miss the crowds as I’ll get there around 1700.
 

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MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Arzúa to SdC 39 kms
The Albergue last night was fine but the crowd that turned up as a large group later afternoon were a pain. Clearly people walking the last 100km and having their suitcases(!) brought along in the coach. Noisy and disorganised and frustrating when they have their music and iPads in at 0200 in the morning. Pity they got woken up early in the morning when the peregrinos were getting ready to leave. It was a nice way in this morning with a clear blue sky. Lots of people always ahead and first thing was like an illuminated procession. However, they gradually thinned out and by the time I stopped for a beer about 2 km from the cathedral most had disappeared so luckily I had a pleasant slow stroll to the end. Now booked into the San Martin de Pinario for 2 nights before if fly home on Saturday. Buen Camino!
P.S. I feel I must mention to ‘new’ ticket system for getting the Compostela- it’s not good! I arrived at the office just after 1530 to be told no more tickets today. I must come back tomorrow! Good job I have an extra day here. A real mess of a system given that in the past when I’ve arrived at about the same time I’ve queued at most for 2 hours!
 

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