Corned Beef
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2024 Portuguese/ VF (South) / VF Grand St Bernard
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Lucky you to go walk a camino.
Hope your knee will be fine.
Buen camino
I hope they heard you. I do. I'm not deaf...Thank you.
On each of my caminos, there has always been some family matter going on the background. On my first, a brother-in-law died (cancer); on another a brother had open-heart surgery; a third saw another brother get pre-emptive liver cancer surgery through the excellent Oz system. This time round, I have another brother-in-law with quite severe cancer who I will stop and say prayers for.
What comes out of all this, is that if you wait to do a Camino, you may never get the chance to fulfil your wish. So I tell my children I am off spending their inheritance and will continue my journeys as I am blessed with relatively good health.
A correction that might be significant...you are on the road for about 20 miles until you reach the gates of the park
This surprised me. There used to be I think 3 accomms in Almaden - I always liked Casa Concha. It sounds like the place has been badly hit.Almeden is much quieter than Castilblanco before it and El Real de la Jara after it. Seems to suffer as no one stays there due to the lack of accommodation. And accommodation is lacking as no stays there.
I walked that stage yesterday and it definitely isn't 20 milesThe distance is only half of that. You are on the road for about 10 miles (17 km) until you reach the park. Then you have another 8 miles (13 km) to reach Almaden.
should be around 3h (like 15km)I walked that stage yesterday and it definitely isn't 20 milesThough as I started that morning from Guillena it certainly felt like it at times.
You probably sounded like you were saying "cello tape" in English, with the English "L" sound instead of the Spanish "ll" that is more like a "y" as in "yes".How do you pronounce ‘sello’.
or like the "y" in mayonnaise so every double "ll" is like this....same in Sevilla for example.How do you pronounce ‘sello’. I must be massacring the language as when I asked today, they produced sticky tape.
We got there in the end.
Mmm...love Spanish olives!Zafra - Merida is similar to previous section. A short climb out of Zafra brings you to a Sierra (more of a hill really) and the meseta like plain opens in front of you.
Still sun but a noticeably colder wind which meant for more frequent stops for a warming cafe con leche.
Though the going is flat, it is also monotonous with acres and acres of vines and olive groves. Though the yellow arrow are there if you miss one, there are no features that can help you reorientate.
To break the monotony I pulled off to Almedralejo for lunch and found a McDonalds with a beautiful park just across from it. Nice town reflecting the agricultural businesses around.
All day you could see farmers out tilling their field, or trimming and burning the old wood. The occasional stop to warm up by these fires was welcome.
No signs of any pilgrims except for a group of 4 Spanish with their new day packs and shells just north of the town.
Merida is an eye opener. Such a wealth of Roman remains within the town including the excellent museum which was free on Saturday afternoon. Good place for a rest day. And the best olives I have ever tasted. Size of walnuts, ripe and soft. I had two plates.
I love Zafra!! Bradypus are you on Camino too?Just as well - in every second bar on the VdlP you can expect to be given some along with your drink!
I'm in Zafra today. The free tapas score so far has been (1) liver and onions, (2) olives in garlic oil, (3) croquette and a fritter of some sort. I ordered a pork sandwich in one bar. Not exactly lunch - more a culinary pub crawl. Happily I am now filled, rehydrated and lightly anaesthetised
I don't like to skip stages. Even in the less appealing chunks of flat agricultural land there is usually something to interest me. Or I can let my mind wander while my feet are more or less on autopilot.I was going to suggest that people might consider skipping the next section and take the train to Merida. May as well start with @Bradypus
Yes. Walking the VdlP for the second time. Not sure how far I'll get this time round. I'll walk until I run out of time, or energy, or feet....I love Zafra!! Bradypus are you on Camino too?
It is true. I was there in June 2019 and it was open by 4.30 and everything in perfect order. So I think, they really open at 4.00 o'clock, at least in summer when pilgrims to avoid the heat on this heavy stage want to start early.Castilblanco has lots of cafes including one that serves Desayuno from 4a.m. according to the sign outside (pic). Not something I checked but perhaps someone else can try!
Thank you for this summary of your camino. I will be starting early April and your notes here will help. Hope your knee recovers completely and you return soon to continue on with the VdlP. Gracias!Day 16: Mérida to Aljucén
As you leave Merida, you come to Proserpina with its lakeside restaurants of which there are many (and closed in the winter. Next to the lake but below the lake's level are more Roman ruins. It looks like a good spot but far too close to Merida for anything other than a short break.
**At about 8 miles out of Merida and just past the lake, the road takes a turn to the right. You'll be turning left off this road shortly after along sandy roads towards El Carrascalejo. The Albergue there looks very smart from the outside and seems in use.
I liked Aljucen as they seem fully on board with the pilgrim tradition. The municipal albergue appears to be open, and the cafe across from it (Kiosko El Parque) has an ATM. There is an interesting form of advertising too just as you approach.
Day 18: Alcuéscar (or Cruce de Las Herrerías) to Aldea del Cano
Aldea del Cano was very quiet on the Sunday afternoon I when I passed. There was a place just south of there (Pecado?) which had a full car park. Sunday seems the day for visiting the local Centro de Mayores.
After Aldea I pressed onto Caceres but only as far as the Renfe station for the last train to Madrid.
Now onto planning the next section when time allows.
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