Will I be all alone on the coastal/senda litoral route?

[AnnaWalks123]

Hello all! I am planning on doing the Camino Portugues (first timer!), taking the coastal/senda litoral route at the end of May 2018. I am a bit nervous about walking entirely alone. My understanding is that on this route, you sometimes are the only pilgrim around. This is more of a safety concern and less of a solitude concern. I was wondering if my information is wrong and/or, if perhaps there were other pilgrims planning to walk then that I might walk with/in the vicinity of more or less (don't want to cramp anyone's style or space ) Thanks in advance!

 

[ConnieAdriano]

Hi Anna, I hope you do find people to walk with for periods but you may enjoy the gentle quietness of alone time also. There are always people on the way so try not to worry. Pave the way for us in July and enjoy the experience. Bom Caminho

 

[19SY69]

Hi Anna, I’ve walked the same route alone, but I was never really alone or felt alone. This was my first timer camino as well. The people you meet on the way are kind and helpful. They strengthened my believe in the kindness of people. Even on the Espiritual I wasn’t the only pilgrim. Enjoy your camino!!

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

You will find people on the Camino at that time of year.

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of it's troubles, It only empty's today of it's strengths".

Go forward and enjoy yourself. Buen Camino !

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You will find people on the Camino at that time of year.

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of it's troubles, It only empty's today of it's strengths".

Go forward and enjoy yourself. Buen Camino !

Worry is also like a rocking chair...going nowhere.

 

[Sheilajg]

There are 4 of us starting from Porto on the 27th of May. When are you going?

 

[TheSparrow]

Hello all! I am planning on doing the Camino Portugues (first timer!), taking the coastal/senda litoral route at the end of May 2018. I am a bit nervous about walking entirely alone. My understanding is that on this route, you sometimes are the only pilgrim around. This is more of a safety concern and less of a solitude concern. I was wondering if my information is wrong and/or, if perhaps there were other pilgrims planning to walk then that I might walk with/in the vicinity of more or less (don't want to cramp anyone's style or space ) Thanks in advance!

I lived in Porto for a couple of months with my teen daughter - one night we were walking alone on a dark city street and she asked me if we were safe - and I told her "nobody here is interested in hurting us" and while things happen on occasion, of course, I firmly feel that that part of the world is interested in quality of life for everyone. Look around, every stray cat is plump! That a danger lurks around every corner, I have found, is one deeply engrained in the USA at least, a firm part of living life. One's mental set can change on alone walks in Portugal and permit you to think of other ideas beside who wants to hurt you, a sense of not worrying about people setting out to harm you, a feeling of a new kind of existence.

 

[AdaR]

Anna, my experience last July/August was not aloneness due to the high population of tourists and vacationers along the route. We didn't see many other pilgrims along the Senda Litoral, but the area was not isolated.
I still dream of returning on my own to complete the sections I missed due to an injury. No Fears.
Bom Caminho

 

[Jair Pianucci]

You will find people on the Camino at that time of year.

"Worrying does not empty tomorrow of it's troubles, It only empty's today of it's strengths".

Go forward and enjoy yourself. Buen Camino !

Cool quote. Very true.

 

[Swift3]

My first Camino was in April-May, Porto to Santiago. Was in a group of 5. We walked along the coast our first day to the municipal ablburgue in Vila do Conde, Santa Clara, which had recently opened and was excellent! From there we headed over to the central route, with the alburgue in Sao Predro de Rates as our next stop. So your experience strictly along the coastal route may vary.

We saw tons of people every day, but not all day, and not necessarily the same people. And not necessarily all pilgrims.

Some days we walked with the same people for a morning, ate lunch together, then never saw them until the Alburgue that night, and then never again. Others we'd see off and on for several days.

It really depends on your own pace, where, and how long, and when you stop (I liked to stop after a short while for coffee/pastry after an hour or even 30 minutes after leaving the alburgue in the morning, then again mid morning for a coffee and fresh orange juice, a long stop for lunch and again for a mid to late afternoon coffee/soda. All these stops cause you to pass, be passed by, and pass and be passed again by, the same pilgrims.

And not all pilgrims you meet will necessarily be staying in Alburgues. Many will stay at small hotels or other places. Some are having their packs transferred by taxi each day and only carrying an astoundingly light day pack (the first time I saw a pair of women with tiny packs, I wondered how they managed to get all their gear for entire CP in such a small pack. After hop-scotching for several days, we ran into them at dinner one night and learned they were office mates from Lisbon, staying in hotels and having their luggage forwarded to the next small hotel each day).

There just are all sort of variations. But though we actually walked alone for hours at a time, we were never alone for an entire day, even if we only saw other people once we arrived at the Alburgue at the end of the day. I appreciated the variation, and think you will too.

 

[Ed Aster]

Hello all! I am planning on doing the Camino Portugues (first timer!), taking the coastal/senda litoral route at the end of May 2018. I am a bit nervous about walking entirely alone. My understanding is that on this route, you sometimes are the only pilgrim around. This is more of a safety concern and less of a solitude concern. I was wondering if my information is wrong and/or, if perhaps there were other pilgrims planning to walk then that I might walk with/in the vicinity of more or less (don't want to cramp anyone's style or space ) Thanks in advance!

Hi Annawalks, I am walking the Coastal starting on May 19 from Porto, maybe we can walk together, hope to finish in SJP by June 1.This is my 2nd Camino.
Ed

 

[jimguatemala]

Hello all! I am planning on doing the Camino Portugues (first timer!), taking the coastal/senda litoral route at the end of May 2018. I am a bit nervous about walking entirely alone. My understanding is that on this route, you sometimes are the only pilgrim around. This is more of a safety concern and less of a solitude concern. I was wondering if my information is wrong and/or, if perhaps there were other pilgrims planning to walk then that I might walk with/in the vicinity of more or less (don't want to cramp anyone's style or space ) Thanks in advance!

Good Luck,Anna.......my wife and I are training now for the CPI (interior route), from LIsbon. We've conquered the Camino Frances twice(last one, June 2017) and I understand your concern. From what I've read, our trek will be even more desolate, but I have never read or heard anything about danger on either route. Also, all the blogs and books we've read state your route will have many more trekkers than ours, so just be calm and aware. Bon caminho!

 

[Camembert]

Good Luck,Anna.......my wife and I are training now for the CPI (interior route), from LIsbon. We've conquered the Camino Frances twice(last one, June 2017) and I understand your concern. From what I've read, our trek will be even more desolate, but I have never read or heard anything about danger on either route. Also, all the blogs and books we've read state your route will have many more trekkers than ours, so just be calm and aware. Bon caminho!

On the trail from Lisbon to Porto are some stages where you have to take care for the Portuguese drivers . Once behind the steeringwheel of their "holy cow" they drive like devils and are less concerned by walking or biking persons alongside the road.
By the way. You are not walking the "interior " caminho from Lisbon . You are walking the "central"caminho .
The "interior " starts in Porto and veers to the east side of Portugal (Famalição, Viseu to Ourense in Spain where it connects to the Via de la Plata, coming from the direction of Salamanca. A total different caminho.

 

[Jeff Crawley]

Walked the coastal route in late May 2015 with a friend and didn't see too many people until Redondela where routes meet and it's more typically Camino-ish, more bars, more pilgrims etc.

Never had any problems with Portuguese drivers - one even turned his car around, proudly displayed his Camino bracelet and explained we had just missed our turn off.

In general Portugal is great, the people are kind and the food is wonderful.

Have a great Camino

 

[Camembert]

Walked the coastal route in late May 2015 with a friend and didn't see too many people until Redondela where routes meet and it's more typically Camino-ish, more bars, more pilgrims etc.

Never had any problems with Portuguese drivers - one even turned his car around, proudly displayed his Camino bracelet and explained we had just missed our turn off.

In general Portugal is great, the people are kind and the food is wonderful.

Have a great Camino

On the coastal you are less walking besides busy roads and more on boardwalks and sidewalks .
Notorious routes are between Lisboa and Porto e.g between Santarém and Gôlega but on the central route from Porto to Vairão and from São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos you are not happy when fast driving cars are passing you when you walk on the hard shoulder less than 50 cms and you allways have to take care for overtaking cars which pass you from behind, less than the same 50 cms.
I drove myself hundreds of thousands of kms all over the years in Portugal and Spain-I worked some years in the Iberic Penninsular and went all over it .
Also during 2 months lasting holidays with my car and caravan .these Portuguese " devils " even tried to merge in by overtaking between my car and towed on caravan !
Don't tell me what drivers in Portugal are alike. In the Portuguese news every day are articles with heavy caraccidents and deadly victims. Portugal has one of the highests ratings in accidents with fatal consequences.

 

[TheSparrow]

Portugal is about the same risk as the USA for traffic accident deaths - both are neither top ten unsafest nor top ten safest. Here is the data link for the WHO
https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2015/10/countries-with-the-most-and-least-road-traffic-deaths/

 

[LorneB]

Hi. I've only walked one Camino (littoral route out of Porto, and then joined the coastal at Villa do Conde...got as far as Vigo), so don't have a frame of reference by which I could compare it to other routes.

I absolutely loved the walk, and can't wait to resume it.

I never felt truly isolated, though I did have long stretches without seeing anyone.

And I did have one uncomfortable experience,. I believe it was as I was leaving Costelho and starting to walk up a quiet street near the bus station. A guy appeared asking me for money. He was pretty rough-looking, and unfortunately, I didn't have anything in my pockets, and didn't feel safe opening my backpack with my wallet around him. I told him I didn't have any money, and he challenged me on the point (how could I be walking the camino without money, he quite reasonably said), and began following me, being verbally persistent. Not feeling comfortable proceeding further, I turned back for the road and ultimately found a taxi to drive me a couple of kilometres ahead (I initially felt great resentment at being denied "my" camino experience, but the kindness of the people who helped me find that taxi made it an even better experience).

Nothing about this experience has discouraged me from getting back on the Camino, and this is certainly not being written to dissuade you. Just a way of saying that these kinds of things can happen, and might be somewhat likelier on the less busy routes.

Take care,


LorneB

 

[TheSparrow]

This is interesting to me, the folks who ask for money in Porto can be relentless, and in my neighborhood was a regular man who waited out in front of the grocery store and would follow us many blocks asking for money and following us. So, I started to watch my friends in Porto and their interactions with people asking for money and noticed that they engaged with these men in Porto (men usually) asking for money, they gave them cigarettes, and even tipped them for "saving" a parking spot for them -- and I mean every time and day they did this. So, these guys are not used to being ignored, but rather engaged, and given something, and to be kind to. Even in my hotel in Porto, during a trip, I noticed they permitted homeless men to have coffee and walk the lobby until the sun came up. So, I am not fluent enough to engage like my Portuguese friends, and I did give food to the one man in my neighborhood and he was fine with that and walked off saying "obrigado" - but, it is a puzzle and I can see why you took the taxi up the road for sure.

 

[LorneB]

And I should be clear that it's typically my way to be kind to people on the street asking for money. I normally have some ready every day for that purpose. In this one case, though, he had a certain, aggressive manner that made me feel uncomfortable, and as I didn't have money available for him, I made my u-turn. Maybe I was having a flashback to a mugging incident (not in Portugal) many years ago

 

[TheSparrow]

last year, there was someone who I gave a euro to, and he was working a pretty touristy area, and then he approached me again and asked! lol, and I said in English, "I already gave you a euro" and he looked really unfriendly still. Then I got grumpy haha. So, it's not easy to navigate without being fluent maybe. I have a feeling that my Portuguese friends would have argued with him though ! Maybe that is one kind of "archetype" of asking for money? idk, doubt it was the same man though

 

[Camembert]

Portugal is about the same risk as the USA for traffic accident deaths - both are neither top ten unsafest nor top ten safest. Here is the data link for the WHO
https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2015/10/countries-with-the-most-and-least-road-traffic-deaths/

I am talking about my own experiences, driving through the country, 3 caminhos walking and reading the Portuguese newspapers every day.
I drove in the USA too , many times, most in Florida and California. The difference between the USA and Portugal is that in the USA they drive slow (95 to 105 kms/h ) and the chance to be caught for speeding is big. Besides that there is more discipline and maybe the fines are higher. The same I experienced last month in the UK . The traffic wasn't that aggressive as it is here in the Netherlands. Here it is "I am first and I am not interested in you so I show you my middlefinger in the traffic. Anyway in the big cities. In Portugal it is not aggressive but they drive fast and take risks. And that's why occur many fatal accident ,every day again and most of the time on so called N roads. And if you study the map of Portugal you'll see that the Portuguese caminho leads along some of those roads.so be prepared
When I walk in Portugal I wear a fluorescent safetyjacket any time I walk along a N road. To be seen is the best way. walk in the direction of the upcoming traffic and let them know you are there e.g by moving your walkingpoles . And listen to and look at traffic approaching you from the back when they are overtaking. We had some narrow escapes on the way to Vairão, to Barcelos among others.

 

[TheSparrow]

I am very nervous about walking along the roads with traffic, I am sure everything will be ok, but I am not looking forward to the worry as you are describing. But doing anything of challenge has risks, but again keeping a cool head - here is the list of the top pedestrian deaths in Europe
https://top5ofanything.com/list/ced3a18e/European-Countries-with-the-Most-Pedestrian-Deaths
I think there might be a list for the most scary drivers who do not usually hit walkers list lol, I am thinking from what you write, Portuguese would be #1! Thank you for your reply, I am learning a lot about the camino from you.

 

[TheSparrow]

PS, I have bought lime green sleeve warmers to wear along the roadways and a bright lime back pack cover and will indeed follow your advice

 

[AnnaWalks123]

There are 4 of us starting from Porto on the 27th of May. When are you going?

Hello! I am setting out on Sunday, May 20.. sounds like I am missing you by a week! Since you are an experienced pilgrim though, you might just catch up to me! Thanks for the response, and buen camino!

 

[Camembert]

PS, I have bought lime green sleeve warmers to wear along the roadways and a bright lime back pack cover and will indeed follow your advice

Anything what attracts drivers is okay. But you better be warned on beforehand.
But Portuguese are lovely helpfull people as long as they are not behind the steeringwheel.
What is the route you are going to walk ? The central route ? From Lisbon ? From Porto? The coastal from Porto ?

 

[TheSparrow]

i have three ideas for the walk albertinho, depends on freed up time and few factors, but, if all goes perfectly Lisbon to Santiago (I'll take public transportation for that one leg of the walk with the narrow shoulder and high traffic); or fly into Lisbon and take train to Tomar and walk up, or, worst case Porto to Santiago coast. All of them are fine with me, I was in Santiago two years ago in June and I think I need to understand something about that visit and I am thinking this walk will help me know more, perhaps, about my experience in Santiago.

 

[Camembert]

i have three ideas for the walk albertinho, depends on freed up time and few factors, but, if all goes perfectly Lisbon to Santiago (I'll take public transportation for that one leg of the walk with the narrow shoulder and high traffic); or fly into Lisbon and take train to Tomar and walk up, or, worst case Porto to Santiago coast. All of them are fine with me, I was in Santiago two years ago in June and I think I need to understand something about that visit and I am thinking this walk will help me know more, perhaps, about my experience in Santiago.

Okay. After Tomar there are some nasty parts along the N10 but if you take your precautions and keep calm and anticipate there is nothing to worry. The coastal from Porto is relaxed all away to Vigo and Redondela.in Spain it is okay with the traffic.
If you walk the central route from Porto to Vilarinho out of the town you better can skip that part by taking the metro to e.g. Fórum Maia or Vilar de Pinheira. Start in Vairão or Vilarinho . From Sào Pedro de Rates at a certain moment you end up on the N306 nearby Pedra Furada. That is a nasty part and big signs warn the cardrivers that pilgrims share the road with them.

 

[TheSparrow]

excellent! thank you! I lived in Foz (the beach part of Porto) so it will be fun to walk through there up the coast - I might cross over because people will not stop glowing about casa Fernanda !!
If I am forced to walk in august, I'll walk the coast, beach and all right there - seems smart - thank you for pointing out the sketchy sections and being reassuring!

 

[Barbara06]

I did the coastal/senda litoral route this february (2018), it was wonderful and I was alone but I don't suppose you will be alone in May. There is no particular safety concern, what are you worying about exactly ?

 

[Camembert]

excellent! thank you! I lived in Foz (the beach part of Porto) so it will be fun to walk through there up the coast - I might cross over because people will not stop glowing about casa Fernanda !!
If I am forced to walk in august, I'll walk the coast, beach and all right there - seems smart - thank you for pointing out the sketchy sections and being reassuring!

Can't wait to walk there next week. We start tuesday 17th from the Sé . We stay in Matosinhos so the first walk is easy without backpack.
A pity I can't meet you in August.I will be hospitaleiro at Casa da Fernanda in September.
Bom caminho

 

[TheSparrow]

that is kind of you - I will keep this in mind as I squeak out my plans! Might still be able to still be around there then

 

[jimguatemala]

Hi. I've only walked one Camino (littoral route out of Porto, and then joined the coastal at Villa do Conde...got as far as Vigo), so don't have a frame of reference by which I could compare it to other routes.

I absolutely loved the walk, and can't wait to resume it.

I never felt truly isolated, though I did have long stretches without seeing anyone.

And I did have one uncomfortable experience,. I believe it was as I was leaving Costelho and starting to walk up a quiet street near the bus station. A guy appeared asking me for money. He was pretty rough-looking, and unfortunately, I didn't have anything in my pockets, and didn't feel safe opening my backpack with my wallet around him. I told him I didn't have any money, and he challenged me on the point (how could I be walking the camino without money, he quite reasonably said), and began following me, being verbally persistent. Not feeling comfortable proceeding further, I turned back for the road and ultimately found a taxi to drive me a couple of kilometres ahead (I initially felt great resentment at being denied "my" camino experience, but the kindness of the people who helped me find that taxi made it an even better experience).

Nothing about this experience has discouraged me from getting back on the Camino, and this is certainly not being written to dissuade you. Just a way of saying that these kinds of things can happen, and might be somewhat likelier on the less busy routes.

Take care,


LorneB

bus stations around the world are magnets for weirdos and "up-to-no-gooders"

 

[Chrism2018]

Anna, my experience last July/August was not aloneness due to the high population of tourists and vacationers along the route. We didn't see many other pilgrims along the Senda Litoral, but the area was not isolated.
I still dream of returning on my own to complete the sections I missed due to an injury. No Fears.
Bom Caminho

I’m starting this route on April 30. I was also concerned about isolation but I think I’ll just start and see how I feel. There are always ways to get back to the main route -taxi or bus do don’t worry.

 

[TheSparrow]

If you learn a little Portuguese, you will always have friends

 

[Camembert]

If you learn a little Portuguese, you will always have friends

Sim ! É verdade ! Mas ninguém vai dizer que é fácil apreender Português !

 

[TheSparrow]

Obrigada Albertinho! Boa Noite

 

[Sheilajg]

Hello! I am setting out on Sunday, May 20.. sounds like I am missing you by a week! Since you are an experienced pilgrim though, you might just catch up to me! Thanks for the response, and buen camino!

I doubt we'll make that kind of time! Bom Camihno

 

[JillGat]

I walked the Litoral from Porto the first week in June and saw practically nobody. I loved it!

 

[TheSparrow]

Hi JillGat superstar,
The Litoral was very fun, but I was a babyish grump when the dunes covered parts of the boardwalk lol. But, i did see people. The Portuguese are amazing walkers and I saw them with dogs and all ages walking the boardwalks in the towns, traffic jams of Sunday drivers along the beach, and many Portuguese people the entire time enjoying the coastline. Pilgrims I did see, but only 3 or 4.