For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
Have a lovely timeFriday, May 17, 2019
View attachment 57500
A quiet, challenging at times, but beautiful walk through a variety of landscapes. I started walking alongside the gorgeous River Sil, then continued through hamlets, vineyards, cherry orchards, a ghost town, quarry, castle, gnarled trees, well-manicured neighborhoods, dilapidated stone villages, barking dogs, a two-stork town, pine forest, high desert- with lots of ups and downs. Trail conditions were great (not muddy), mostly dirt paths, but some asphalt roads after Castillo Cornatel. I ended up in the stunning red rock formations, Las Médulas, which were mined by the Romans for gold.
I saw just one other pilgrim. No pilgrims’ nest cafes, just a few local bars. If you’re feeling crowded on the Francés, take the Camino Invierno in Ponferrada. In some areas, trail isn’t well marked, so I used Wise Pilgrim’s Invierno guide and offline map to navigate. Photos are on my public Facebook page.
I've walked this Camino more times than anyone, I believe (I'll be back in Monforte de Lemos in a couple of weeks' time with a friend), and would make a couple of points:Day 2 Camino Invierno. Las Médulas to O Barco de Valdeorras. 30 km.
The walk leaving Las Médulas was pretty. There were light showers and sunshine. 2nd morning in a row with a rainbow! Then, a hilly climb with grand views up and down to Puente de Domingo Flórez which has a churrería. I earned and enjoyed my chocolate con churros. The crossing into Galicia has no sign or makeshift rock border like on the Primitivo has. Arrows are missing and sketchy but Galicia installed new markers recently. Walk follows the Rio Sil and railroad for most of the day, so views are scenic. But not any services between Quereño & Sobradelo, which has Bar Mar, the friendliest pilgrim bar I’ve been to on the Invierno. Highly recommend it. The walk to O Barco was grueling because I was exhausted, it was windy and lots of it on asphalt. Consider taking a taxi to O Barco to save your energy. I stayed at Hostal Gran Tortuga single room with private bath €20 includes breakfast. This might be TMI, but this route is new and has some rough patches so I am taking good notes for a route report I’ll publish this summer on my Camino Provides blog.
I didn’t see any other pilgrims except for 2 bikers from Spain.
Below is a link to the tracked walk video with photos.
Relive 'Las Médulas to O Barco de Valdeorras'
View my hike: Las Médulas to O Barco de Valdeorraswww.relive.cc
I've walked this Camino more times than anyone, I believe (I'll be back in Monforte de Lemos in a couple of weeks' time with a friend), and would make a couple of points:
The route is certainly NOT new. Arrows missing? The signposting is absolutely perfect all the way from Ponferrada.
Bar Mar in Sobradelo is very pilgrim friendly, but so is the Cafetería Pontenova Centro Social, more or less opposite. It's a pity that the owners don't get on very well!
Gran Tortuga would always be my choice of a hostal in O Barco. I've stayed in the others, and this one wins hands down; as you say, free breakfast downstairs in the bar.
I mean more Caminos de Invierno!Charrito, that’s awesome! More Caminos than anyone?!
My experience when I walked into Centro Social wasn’t great. My vibe was to find another place so I’m glad I went to Bar Mar instead. Very welcoming and friendly people. Manuel gave me a nice Camino Invierno t-shirt.
Gran Tortuga was decent for the price, though it smelled a bit musty. I was grateful for the nice breakfast even though I couldn’t keep it down. It wasn’t anything to do with their food - I just was very sick the morning of my 3rd day. Much better now.
Maybe that’s why they have the Nespresso pods now. I love those machines!The Parador in Monforte is lovely but I have to say it wins the prize for the worst coffee I have ever come across in Spain!
Did you walk through Belasar?Day 5: Monforte to Chantada (36 km)
Part 1:
This is the day that I captured the sheep herding scenario and met that sweet 77-year-young farmer lady- you might have seen the videos on my page. This was a long stage, and it was the hottest day yet. I zipped the legs off my pants around 11 am and my pale legs got some sunshine, except for the parts on the back of my calves that had pain patches. LOL! I’m branded.
It was lovely and very scenic but lots of asphalt, so I did the unthinkable. I stuck my thumb out and hitched a ride. A car stopped and lowered its tinted windows. I was kinda scared that it would be a creepy pilgrim molester, but was relieved to see a young black woman with a big smile and braces. I showed her where I was going on my app and she said she was heading that way and could take me. I got in and off we went through more winding paved roads. I didn’t miss much, except for maybe 8 km of painful pavement pounding! She’s from the Dominican Republic, the same area where my dad lived, so we bonded over that (all of this in my best attempt at Spanglish). I spotted the church where the Camino route turns down a dirt path, so I asked her to let me out. I offered her money, which she refused, but gave her a patch. She’s a Camino Ángel! That brave decision to hitchhike saved my legs and energy, for there was a steep descent of switchbacks, rocks and dry leaves that I had to negotiate. Known as the “codos (elbows) de Belesar”, this was part of a Roman and later medieval road, some of the old stones remain. Here are photos up to that point.
https://www.facebook.com/903139123092881/posts/2711543925585716
Lucky you that had a nice weather up there! Heavy fog when I went up there last year, saw nothing at all!Day 6 Chantada to Rodeiro, 25 km
It was another long, but beautiful walk through farms, windmills and up to Alto de Faro. On my way out of Chantada, I stopped at a café that hadn’t had a pilgrim customer for a long time. The place had a sello, but the ink had dried out- so I only got 1 stamp that day. Stops are few and far between on most stages on the Invierno, so I have been packing snacks for the long days. Some pilgrims wouldn’t like the lack of infrastructure. I am lucky to have great weather and received warm greetings by locals, like an invitation to coffee and tour of an amazing farmhouse called Boan.
Photos at:
https://www.facebook.com/903139123092881/posts/2716522998421142
Lucky you that had a nice weather up there! Heavy fog when I went up there last year, saw nothing at all!
Which Sunday are you talking about? This Sunday? Where? OK, I've just read your beautiful account of the stage from Ponferrada to Borrenes. Let's hope we can meet up somewhere in Monforte de Lemos on Sunday, although I'm not sure you'll make it by then.I may be there on Sunday. Who knows, @Charrito we might meet up, if you guys are faster than I.
Not true at all! The Invierno legend is KinkyOne, without forgetting peregrina2000. I've been lucky enough to meet them both recently.Oh, do try to meet @Charrito (Peter). He's already Invierno legend
Maybe not? I''m still unsure of the stages to come and how to break the distance up...but would so love to meet you Peter!I'm not sure you'll make it by then.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?