Sanabres "Glitch"

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I will be walking the Sanabres portion of the VdlP starting in mid April. I have the majority of my lodgings and many reservations sorted.
I want to shorten the 34k stage going from A Gudina to Laza, and planned to stay in Campobecerros, about halfway between the two. I was planning to stay at the Albergue da Rosario as it has 20 beds and does not take reservations. I now see it appears to be temporarily closed in 2024. There is only one other property in that town; a very small 4 bed pension, Casa Nunez, but the email listed on Gronze is defunct and I heard the owner runs both properties.

My question is for those who have walked the Sanabres and particularly this stage in the last several months. Did you find the albergue open or closed? What about Casa Nunez?

I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
 
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duncanwhyte

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I was told about Casa Nunez by the hospitalero in A Gudina. (She said that the albergue is closed). They do a bed and meals for the price. However I am on the VERIN route. Either way, unless you can do the long walks, it looks likely that a hotel stop is required.
 
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Luka

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Hi @Camino Chrissy, sorry, no suggestions, but thanks for the heads-up! I hope to continue from A Gudiña in May and also planned to divide that stage into 2 stages and I was also counting on Albergue da Rosario. So I am going to look at an alternative as well. If I find anything, I'll let you know.
 

Luka

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I just digged into public transport options, but they are zero. So I am now going to figure out if the Verín variant would be an alternative for me.

Edit: I think that variant would work for me, if I change my starting point from A Gudiña to Verín. Then my first walking day would either be Verín - Laza or I'll stay on the variante until Ourense.
 
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peregrina2000

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Just to say that I called Casa Nuñez for @Camino Chrissy and was able to get a room for her date, no problem. The woman was very nice and just asked for a call if there are changes.

I am happy to call on behalf of anyone else, since I have a cheap calling card from the US.

I forgot to ask two things that Chris had asked me to find out — one, how many rooms and beds they have, and two, any updates they may have on the albergue. So if I call for anyone else, I can find out all those details! Send me a PM if you want me to call, it’s really not a big deal. I’m happy to do it.
 
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Just to say that I called Casa Nuñez for @Camino Chrissy and was able to get a room for her date, no problem. The woman was very nice and just asked for a call if there are changes.

I am happy to call on behalf of anyone else, since I have a cheap calling card from the US.

I forgot to ask two things that Chris had asked me to find out — one, how many rooms and beds they have, and two, any updates they may have on the albergue. So if I call for anyone else, I can find out all those details! Send me a PM if you want me to call, it’s really not a big deal. I’m happy to do it.


I might ask for your help when September is approaching!
Otherwise taxi to and from I guess.
 

peregrina2000

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I might ask for your help when September is approaching!
Otherwise taxi to and from I guess.
When I walked the Sanabrés, the people I was walking with decided to skip the last part of the stage, and we spent an hour or so waiting out a storm in café bar attached to Casa Nuñez. They got a taxi from Laza to come pick them up and take them there. They decided not to taxi back to Campobecerros the next day and just carried on.

I don’t remember a whole lot about the walk from Campobecerros, but there was.a nice stone village along the way with a fountain and some good views before a long descent into Laza. But I definitely remember the slidey descent on slippery shale in the rain into Campobecerros! Maybe things are all re-arranged now that the train construction is done. It would be good to hear an update - I don’t think we’ve had any live threads from the Sanabrés recently!
 

SabsP

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When I walked the Sanabrés, the people I was walking with decided to skip the last part of the stage, and we spent an hour or so waiting out a storm in café bar attached to Casa Nuñez. They got a taxi from Laza to come pick them up and take them there. They decided not to taxi back to Campobecerros the next day and just carried on.

I don’t remember a whole lot about the walk from Campobecerros, but there was.a nice stone village along the way with a fountain and some good views before a long descent into Laza. But I definitely remember the slidey descent on slippery shale in the rain into Campobecerros! Maybe things are all re-arranged now that the train construction is done. It would be good to hear an update - I don’t think we’ve had any live threads from the Sanabrés recently!

Forgot to bookmark the blog I read recently about that part of the Sanabres which said exactly the same about walking into Campobecerros. So still not sure if I will walk or taxi.
 
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They got a taxi from Laza to come pick them up and take them there.

There were a couple of taxis in Laza when I passed through last September. Just down from A Picota which does some great tapas.
 

Luka

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Just to say that I called Casa Nuñez for @Camino Chrissy and was able to get a room for her date, no problem. The woman was very nice and just asked for a call if there are changes.

I am happy to call on behalf of anyone else, since I have a cheap calling card from the US.

I forgot to ask two things that Chris had asked me to find out — one, how many rooms and beds they have, and two, any updates they may have on the albergue. So if I call for anyone else, I can find out all those details! Send me a PM if you want me to call, it’s really not a big deal. I’m happy to do it.
That is really nice of you! Because of this thread I found out that the Verín-variant looks quite interesting too. So now I have a choice to make... 😅 If I decide to go for Casa Nuñez, I'll give them a call and ask the things you forgot to ask and post the answers here. 👍
 

peregrina2000

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There were a couple of taxis in Laza when I passed through last September. Just down from A Picota which does some great tapas.
I had a good breakfast in A Picota years and years ago, but my big meal there was really mediocre. It was up on a covered roof terrace, if I remember. But I know people love it, and it has a good ambiente. So my experience could just be a one-off.

But I did have a very good meal while walking the Levante/Sanabrés in Laza in Ardillas, which is right in the center and still in operation from the looks of things. It was a little more “upscale” in contrast to Picota’s more “down home” food. I think Ardillas has closed and reopened since I went through, so who knows what it’s like now.

Has anyone ever been in Laza during their “Entroido”? A little googling will show lots of pictures. Those masks and attire are quite spectacular, you’ll see lots of pictures and decorations in bars. The dates for 2025 are already set for 27 Feb - 4 March.
 
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Hi Luka, You have more flexibility than me as I had made quite a few reservations ahead of time going to Laza and beyond, so needed to stay with that plan if at all possible. The Verin route was longer I think, but I'm sure both are very nice.
 
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I have walked some of the Verín route, i.e. from Verín to Ourense. Here is a link to my live thread for my impressions.
Nick, I will refresh myself by looking at your link again as it's been nearly two years since then. This time I will pay closer attention as it will "hit closer to home" since I arrive on the Sanabres in one more month. I'll find out some of what I will be missing, too...wish it was possible to walk with one foot on each path.😅
 
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Luka

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Hi Luka, You have more flexibility than me as I had made quite a few reservations ahead of time going to Laza and beyond, so needed to stay with that plan if at all possible. The Verin route was longer I think, but I'm sure both are very nice.
Similar story here 😁 I also started planning my Camino a bit, having to walk shorter stages and not knowing how busy it will be after Ourense. But the difference might be that I planned to start in A Gudiña and could still easily change my starting point. I calculated 5 walking days from A Gudiña to Ourense. Verín to Ourense would be 4, but I would need an extra day to travel to Verín, so that would give me exactly the same arrival date in Ourense.
 

Luka

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I have walked some of the Verín route, i.e. from Verín to Ourense. Here is a link to my live thread for my impressions.
Thanks a lot for that! I had already read the very entertaining report of @alansykes, but didn't know about yours. Having read both of them now, I am pretty sure I am going for the Verín variante!

Also because I already saw a bit of the main Camino last August, when I struggled with my Achilles tendons and had to quit. I then walked (most of) Puebla de Sanabria to A Gudiña, stayed in the Xunta albergue there, took public transport the next day (to save my Achilles tendons) and ended up in Alberguería. From there I managed to walk the next day to Villar de Barrio (7,5 km), but I knew by then my Camino was over. So the next day I took a bus from Villar de Barrio to Ourense. So maybe I should try my luck now on the variant.
 
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Plataman

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I will be walking the Sanabres portion of the VdlP starting in mid April. I have the majority of my lodgings and many reservations sorted.
I want to shorten the 34k stage going from A Gudina to Laza, and planned to stay in Campobecerros, about halfway between the two. I was planning to stay at the Albergue da Rosario as it has 20 beds and does not take reservations. I now see it appears to be temporarily closed in 2024. There is only one other property in that town; a very small 4 bed pension, Casa Nunez, but the email listed on Gronze is defunct and I heard the owner runs both properties.

My question is for those who have walked the Sanabres and particularly this stage in the last several months. Did you find the albergue open or closed? What about Casa Nunez?

I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
I walked it in Sept 2022 and found the albergue open and very pleasant to stay in. In 2016 the albergue was not open, so I taxied the first 8KM, then walked to Laza, a very pleasant walk. I was 69 at the time, so no problem taking a taxi if circmstances warrant. The walk to Laza is one of the most scenic and pleasant on the entire Camino.
 

peregrina2000

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Ok, another room reserved in Casa Nuñez.

Do not be surprised if the woman only asks you for a first name, and the easiest thing is to just “Spanglicize it” (I gave @Camino Chrissy ’s first name as Cristina).

They have four rooms and seemed to know nothing about the albergue except to say that it is closed.

I saw on google that the Albergue was affiliated with the Bar Rosario in Campobecerros, but google also tells me that the bar is permanently closed, so I am guessing the albergue will not be reopening anytime soon.

If memory serves, there used to be a pilgrim albergue in the train station, but that is probably not going to be a possibility in the future either with the construction of the new train line. Edited to add: Just found an old article and a picture of the albergue in the train station, which opened in 2014 but is now closed. And another 500,000 euros down the drain.

Looks like for now Casa Nuñez is the only game in town.
 
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geraldkelly

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Thanks for this update @Camino Chrissy .

I was in contact with them, they're closed for personal reasons and will reopen when possible.

Bar Rosario has closed but the food in Café Casa Nuñez is very good (in my opinion). I ate there last summer.

The albergue in the old railway station closed years ago.

Latest updates (as soon as I get them) as always here: https://www.viadelaplataguide.net/pages/updates
 
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Luka

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You can work it out with Google maps.
To my experience you can't always rely on Google maps regarding public transport in the Spanish countryside. I always start with Google maps and then try to find proof for the connections it found.
 

Henry B

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I will be walking the Sanabres portion of the VdlP starting in mid April. I have the majority of my lodgings and many reservations sorted.
I want to shorten the 34k stage going from A Gudina to Laza, and planned to stay in Campobecerros, about halfway between the two. I was planning to stay at the Albergue da Rosario as it has 20 beds and does not take reservations. I now see it appears to be temporarily closed in 2024. There is only one other property in that town; a very small 4 bed pension, Casa Nunez, but the email listed on Gronze is defunct and I heard the owner runs both properties.

My question is for those who have walked the Sanabres and particularly this stage in the last several months. Did you find the albergue open or closed? What about Casa Nunez?

I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
The albergue was open in November but, honestly, nothing to write home about. I think we all ate at Nunez and although it comes at a cost you may want to consider spalshing out. The next day we walked on through Laza and on to Albergueria to an excellent albergue run by the owner of the bar accross the street.
Bom Camino
 
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@geraldkelly,
I’ll be walking from Zamora starting mid-April. I have looked at your updates, am wondering if the municipal albergue in Montamarta is closed indefinitely?
I will be in Zamora as a tourist first, but will not start walking until Rionegro Puente, which is a few stages after Montemarta, so I have no info to help, but others may be able to answer your question.
Edit...Ooops, I see you asked Gerald.
 
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J Willhaus

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I will be in Zamora as a tourist first, but will not start walking until Rionegro Puente, which is a few stages after Montemarta, so I have no info to help, but others may be able to answer your question.
I love Zamora!
 
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Donna Sch

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I was told about Casa Nunez by the hospitalero in A Gudina. (She said that the albergue is closed). They do a bed and meals for the price. However I am on the VERIN route. Either way, unless you can do the long walks, it looks likely that a hotel stop is required.
How was the waymarking? That stage was Type 2 fun back in 2015 but it is beautiful.
 
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I have walked some of the Verín route, i.e. from Verín to Ourense. Here is a link to my live thread for my impressions.
Nick, I have finished reading your thread on the Sanabres and viewing your wonderful Flicker photos at the end. I'm excited to follow in many of your footsteps in early May. Thanks for sharing the link!
 

duncanwhyte

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How was the waymarking? That stage was Type 2 fun back in 2015 but it is beautiful.
I walked a fair amount of road throughout the vdlp, avoiding flooding. The way markings are stones, a lot are original Roman milia. Now in Galicia relatively new and more impressive stone. But in general the vdlp has less painted yellow arrows , which on the Mozarabes were somewhat overproduced.
 

geraldkelly

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I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
We walked the VLDP/Sanabres in April last year and broke up the stages by staying one night in As Eiras in the small donativo albergue in the village. It is in an old house right on the Camino and has 4 beds in 2 rooms. There is a kitchen and lots of food provided so you can cook a meal. It is run by the Camino Ultreia - As Eiras group.
 
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We walked the VLDP/Sanabres in April last year and broke up the stages by staying one night in As Eiras in the small donativo albergue in the village. It is in an old house right on the Camino and has 4 beds in 2 rooms. There is a kitchen and lots of food provided so you can cook a meal. It is run by


We walked that section in April last year and brought me up
The stages by staying one night in the tiny donativo albergue in As Eitas



We walked the VDLP/ Sanabres in April last year. We broke up the stages from A Gudina by staying one night in the tiny donativo albergue in As Eiras which is run by the Camino Ultreia - As Eiras group. There are 4 beds (2 bunks) in 2 rooms. There is a well equipped and well stocked kitchen where you can prepare a meal.
The albergue in As Eiras also has a table outside the albergue offering cool drinks and snacks. We called earlier in the day and were met on arrival by a member of the group.
The next day we walked to Albergueria and stayed in the unique Albergue El Rincon del Peregrino, and then walked to Xunqueira de Ambia where there is a Xunta albergue on the outskirts; as you are arriving in the town. From the albergue it is about a 500 m walk into the town.
Chrissy, if you are starting in Rio Negro del Puente don’t miss having a meal at Me Gusta Comer which is just across the road from the albergue.
 

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Chrissy, if you are starting in Rio Negro del Puente don’t miss having a meal at Me Gusta Comer which is just across the road from the albergue.
Thanks for saying. That is exactly what I am doing after reading so many rave reports on the forum. I have adjusted my plans to include this "must do" albergue and restaurant.
 
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geraldkelly

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Thank you, Gerald, and to everyone who contributed to this thread with 37 posts. My issue was resolved rather quickly, but many of the additional comments that veered off a bit to include the Verin variant, etc., can help others who may walk the Sanabres in the future.
 

Rowena

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I second that, thank you for your help, Gerald and Laurie, and to Chrissy for starting the thread. Very timely for me. I’m leaving for Spain in three weeks, and will be walking this Camino for the first time.
I wonder how many pilgrims I might encounter in the second half of April…
It looks as if there are plenty of albergues along the way, hopefully they will not be full when I arrive 🤞
 
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Troy9119

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I will be walking the Sanabres portion of the VdlP starting in mid April. I have the majority of my lodgings and many reservations sorted.
I want to shorten the 34k stage going from A Gudina to Laza, and planned to stay in Campobecerros, about halfway between the two. I was planning to stay at the Albergue da Rosario as it has 20 beds and does not take reservations. I now see it appears to be temporarily closed in 2024. There is only one other property in that town; a very small 4 bed pension, Casa Nunez, but the email listed on Gronze is defunct and I heard the owner runs both properties.

My question is for those who have walked the Sanabres and particularly this stage in the last several months. Did you find the albergue open or closed? What about Casa Nunez?

I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
I was there in late October and it was open. Problem is there is only one place to eat and if you get it wro g you will be eating potato chips or peanuts( from experience). If i were you i would push through. There is also a private rural casa another 5 km or so. Not sure of the name but i heard it was good but a little pricey.
 
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Levi

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I second that, thank you for your help, Gerald and Laurie, and to Chrissy for starting the thread. Very timely for me. I’m leaving for Spain in three weeks, and will be walking this Camino for the first time.
I wonder how many pilgrims I might encounter in the second half of April…
I'm starting from Zamora on 16 April. This will be my second time walking this camino. Hopefully we may meet at some stage. Buen Camino!
 
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DaysWeSpend

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Has anyone ever been in Laza during their “Entroido”? A little googling will show lots of pictures. Those masks and attire are quite spectacular, you’ll see lots of pictures and decorations in bars. The dates for 2025 are already set for 27 Feb - 4 March.
We went to Laza for Entroido this year. There's a day where everyone throws mud soaked rags and ants at each other. It was wild. We made a video about it:

Laza is a super small town. Even from Ourense, there aren't any regular public transit options.
 

JillGat

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Thanks for the heads up, Chrissy! I start out from Puebla de Sanabria in two weeks, so am looking at these stages, too. And thanks for weighing in, @geraldkelly, @peregrina2000 and others.

Re. this comment by Peregrina2000: [[Do not be surprised if the woman only asks you for a first name, and the easiest thing is to just “Spanglicize it” (I gave @Camino Chrissy ’s first name as Cristina).]]

Note to the other "Jills" on this board: "Jill" is impossible for Spanish people to pronounce, especially with that spelling. I got lost in Galicia once and a local told me to turn right (or whatever) just before the town of "Jill." Pronounced it perfectly. Turns out the name of the town is Xil, which in Spanish sounds very close to Jill. So that's how I spell my name when I'm in Spain.

 
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Camino Francés, Vía de la Plata / Camino Sanabrés, Camino del Baztán, Camino Aragonés, Chemin du Puy
Thanks for the heads up, Chrissy! I start out from Puebla de Sanabria in two weeks, so am looking at these stages, too. And thanks for weighing in, @geraldkelly, @peregrina2000 and others.

Re. this comment by Peregrina2000: [[Do not be surprised if the woman only asks you for a first name, and the easiest thing is to just “Spanglicize it” (I gave @Camino Chrissy ’s first name as Cristina).]]

Note to the other "Jills" on this board: "Jill" is impossible for Spanish people to pronounce, especially with that spelling. I got lost in Galicia once and a local told me to turn right (or whatever) just before the town of "Jill." Pronounced it perfectly. Turns out the name of the town is Xil, which in Spanish sounds very close to Jill. So that's how I spell my name when I'm in Spain.

I suspect the Xil in this case is pronounced the Galician way which sounds a lot like J in English.
 
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Giorgio99

New Member
May 27, 2023
20
25
Scotland
Time of past OR future Camino
Last camino was Via Francigena. Next is Stevenson
I will be walking the Sanabres portion of the VdlP starting in mid April. I have the majority of my lodgings and many reservations sorted.
I want to shorten the 34k stage going from A Gudina to Laza, and planned to stay in Campobecerros, about halfway between the two. I was planning to stay at the Albergue da Rosario as it has 20 beds and does not take reservations. I now see it appears to be temporarily closed in 2024. There is only one other property in that town; a very small 4 bed pension, Casa Nunez, but the email listed on Gronze is defunct and I heard the owner runs both properties.

My question is for those who have walked the Sanabres and particularly this stage in the last several months. Did you find the albergue open or closed? What about Casa Nunez?

I appreciate any insights that previous walkers can provide. Thank you!
Hi. I just did the whole section two days ago so can’t comment on the queries but if you decide to do the whole section then going slow makes it fine
 
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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Jun 22, 2015
2,477
7,466
69
New Mexico, USA
www.mirafloresmosaics.com
Time of past OR future Camino
2018
When I walked the Sanabrés, the people I was walking with decided to skip the last part of the stage, and we spent an hour or so waiting out a storm in café bar attached to Casa Nuñez. They got a taxi from Laza to come pick them up and take them there. They decided not to taxi back to Campobecerros the next day and just carried on.

I don’t remember a whole lot about the walk from Campobecerros, but there was.a nice stone village along the way with a fountain and some good views before a long descent into Laza. But I definitely remember the slidey descent on slippery shale in the rain into Campobecerros! Maybe things are all re-arranged now that the train construction is done. It would be good to hear an update - I don’t think we’ve had any live threads from the Sanabrés recently!
On Gronze, Casa Nuñez gets terrible reviews. Hopefully either not accurate or they have improved since then!
 
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Mar 1, 2017
12,957
36,425
Northern Illinois, USA
Time of past OR future Camino
Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
On Gronze, Casa Nuñez gets terrible reviews. Hopefully either not accurate or they have improved since then!
I was desperate and need that stop; Casa Nunez appears to have the only beds in town! I know it has bad reviews, but I don't care!😆
 
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JillGat

la tierra encantada
Jun 22, 2015
2,477
7,466
69
New Mexico, USA
www.mirafloresmosaics.com
Time of past OR future Camino
2018
I hear ya. Me too. I'll get there first and will send you a report.
I was desperate and need that stop; Casa Nunez appears to have the only beds in town! I know it has bad reviews, but I don't care!😆
We walked from Puebla Sanabres to Requejo today. Not a single other pilgrim did we see. I dont think we will be booking ahead.
 

Jan Jones

Active Member
Oct 9, 2017
145
228
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances 2018, Norte, 2019, Camino Primitivo 2023
I don’t remember a whole lot about the walk from Campobecerros, but there was.a nice stone village along the way with a fountain and some good views before a long descent into Laza. But I definitely remember the slidey descent on slippery shale in the rain into Campobecerros
I was going to taxi to Laza from and back to but the weather out of A Gudiña was really wild and so another pilgrim and I got a taxi to Venda de Bolaño and walked to Laza from there. We walked in mist and rain to Campobecerros so missed some good scenery but luckily it cleared just before the tough downward trail . From there it was indeed lovely views and a gentle downhill stretch mostly along a quiet road into Laza. The little village is 6 kms before the end.
 
Mar 1, 2017
12,957
36,425
Northern Illinois, USA
Time of past OR future Camino
Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
I start walking the Sanabres from Rionegro del Puente in less than two weeks. Short of a tornado, my "goal" is to use no taxis or buses the whole way to Santiago unless I get injured...fingers crossed.🤞
 
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JillGat

la tierra encantada
Jun 22, 2015
2,477
7,466
69
New Mexico, USA
www.mirafloresmosaics.com
Time of past OR future Camino
2018
I hear ya. Me too. I'll get there first and will send you a report.
I know posting bad reviews of accomodations is frowned upon here. I can accept very simple, even primitive conditions when I travel. But suffice it to say. after seeing the room at Casa Nuñez in Campobecerros, we called a taxi to take us to Laza
I very rarely do that
...
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Jun 22, 2015
2,477
7,466
69
New Mexico, USA
www.mirafloresmosaics.com
Time of past OR future Camino
2018
More specifically, the room had the telltale musty scent of bedbugs. There was copious evidence on the edges of the mattress of a longterm bedbug infestation and a dead bedbug on top of the sheet that suggested a current infestation, or that the sheets had not been cleaned since the last one. I realize that any accomodations might have bedbugs sometimes, but I got the sense that the problem had never been addressed here.
 
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Rowena

Active Member
Dec 4, 2016
758
6,478
Ontario, Canada
Time of past OR future Camino
2024
So I stayed at Casa Nuñez in Campobecerros yesterday. Peregrina 2000 had reserved a room for me. There were no bedbugs. If there had been I would have known because I am very sensitive to their bites. It was not luxury accommodation by any means but I have stayed in worse places on the Camino Frances. There was a dinner menu and coffee and toast in the morning. All in all it was okay.
 

Luka

Veteran Member
Oct 12, 2010
1,431
4,292
Asturias, Spain
Time of past OR future Camino
Next: Camino Sanabrés (May 2024)
As A Gudiña was supposed to be my starting point, I decided to work around Campobecerros. I will now start my Camino (in 2,5 weeks) in Verín and walk Verín - Laza as first stage. I booked a room in the Parador in Verín, so lodging should be alright... 🤣
 

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