sun is shining
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Day 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja
As usual, life has a habit of changing plans so we found ourselves on the Invierno a month later than expected. Regardless though, we are happy to finally get started!
Day 1 was a hard one right from the off. We flew into Madrid late yesterday evening and took the night bus to Ponferrada (ALSA bus straight from Madrid T4, arrival in Ponferrada just after 5pm). From the ALSA station it was a quick 1.5km to the “beginning” of the Invierno. Off we went into the dark, following the markers that are - even with head torches - easy to find. We made speedy progress until Toral de Merayo, and by 7:15am it was light enough to start enjoying the scenery. Although the walk in the dark had its charms too, lots of glittering reflections along the trail from plants covered in dew drops.
The trail was dry until the final descent into Toral where it gets muddy for a short steep-ish section. Coming out of Toral was similar, muddy (some building works going on because it looks like heavy machinery dug deep trails in the mud) but nothing that can’t be done.
The rest of the walk was fine. Frequent water fountains, lots of shade, and easy to follow markers. Until that hike up to Villavieja. We’ve been forewarned through forum posts but it was much harder than expected. Nothing undoable but by that time we were seriously tired and hungry. Temps reached 25c by 10:30am which didn’t help.
But it was so worth it! The albergue is a thing of beauty, comfortable, well-equipped, and with a stunning view. And clearly we aren’t the only ones that think so. Currently there are (inkl us two) 8 pilgrims here which is much higher than we expected. The Invierno clearly seems to be gaining in popularity. And given the absolutely beautiful scenery that’s really not a surprise.
I liked the format @Grizzlybero used in their “live on the Primitivo” thread so I’ll try to use something similar. We are on a longer sabbatical so making cost-wise decisions is important and others might be in a similar situation.
Total km: 18
Accommodation: Albergue municipal de Villavieja “Manuel Fuentes”
Cost & Access: 10€ pP - the albergue is not staffed but you can get the access code via phone or email from the local ayuntamiento in advanced
Total spend (two people): 26€ (the albergue has a very well-equipped kitchen, food has to be brought in though from one of the earlier towns)
Plans for tomorrow so far is a very early start towards Las Medulas, breakfast / remote work session, and onwards to Casa Rosa in Puente de Domingo Florez. Most of the others that stay here today have a similar plan. I’ll keep you update how it’s going and thanks for all the pre-Camino advice!!
As usual, life has a habit of changing plans so we found ourselves on the Invierno a month later than expected. Regardless though, we are happy to finally get started!
Day 1 was a hard one right from the off. We flew into Madrid late yesterday evening and took the night bus to Ponferrada (ALSA bus straight from Madrid T4, arrival in Ponferrada just after 5pm). From the ALSA station it was a quick 1.5km to the “beginning” of the Invierno. Off we went into the dark, following the markers that are - even with head torches - easy to find. We made speedy progress until Toral de Merayo, and by 7:15am it was light enough to start enjoying the scenery. Although the walk in the dark had its charms too, lots of glittering reflections along the trail from plants covered in dew drops.
The trail was dry until the final descent into Toral where it gets muddy for a short steep-ish section. Coming out of Toral was similar, muddy (some building works going on because it looks like heavy machinery dug deep trails in the mud) but nothing that can’t be done.
The rest of the walk was fine. Frequent water fountains, lots of shade, and easy to follow markers. Until that hike up to Villavieja. We’ve been forewarned through forum posts but it was much harder than expected. Nothing undoable but by that time we were seriously tired and hungry. Temps reached 25c by 10:30am which didn’t help.
But it was so worth it! The albergue is a thing of beauty, comfortable, well-equipped, and with a stunning view. And clearly we aren’t the only ones that think so. Currently there are (inkl us two) 8 pilgrims here which is much higher than we expected. The Invierno clearly seems to be gaining in popularity. And given the absolutely beautiful scenery that’s really not a surprise.
I liked the format @Grizzlybero used in their “live on the Primitivo” thread so I’ll try to use something similar. We are on a longer sabbatical so making cost-wise decisions is important and others might be in a similar situation.
Total km: 18
Accommodation: Albergue municipal de Villavieja “Manuel Fuentes”
Cost & Access: 10€ pP - the albergue is not staffed but you can get the access code via phone or email from the local ayuntamiento in advanced
Total spend (two people): 26€ (the albergue has a very well-equipped kitchen, food has to be brought in though from one of the earlier towns)
Plans for tomorrow so far is a very early start towards Las Medulas, breakfast / remote work session, and onwards to Casa Rosa in Puente de Domingo Florez. Most of the others that stay here today have a similar plan. I’ll keep you update how it’s going and thanks for all the pre-Camino advice!!