¡ Zamora !

[scruffy1]

I am at the fine tuning stage of planning my pilgrimage on the CF - reading history, art, architecture, and cook books. At the moment re-reading one of my very favorites, "Romanesque Churches of Spain" by Peter Strafford. In the chapter on Castile and León I find Zamora and learn that it is especially blessed with Romanesque churches, houses, and the bridge. Zamora isa small town, less then 70,000 people but they are fighting for the tourist dollar therefore there are some wonderful and very attractive web sites explaining what there is to see, where the monuments are located, and opening hours! Try here (Spanish):

http://www.romanicozamora.es/

For those perhaps intimidated by the Spanish a partial list may be found here in English:

http://www.spainisculture.com/en/rutas_culturales/el_romanico_de_zamora_y_toro.html

For my fellow Jewish pilgrims and those who perhaps have an interest in Medieval Spain, those city areas where the Jewish community lived in Zamora until 1492 have been highlighted by the Zamora tourist office and may be seen here.

http://www.campanton.com/2014/07/city-of-zamora-signposted-its.html
¿Me? My planned rest day in Astorga will be spent on a bus going to Zamora, an intensive walkabout, and then back the next morning.

 

[peregrina2000]

Scruffy, Zamora is indeed a Romanesque delight, and no matter what day of the week you are there, some of the 20+ Romanesque churches will be open. My very favorite is Santiago de los Caballeros, a tiny ancient church outside the walls where El Cid supposedly prayed before battle.

Of equal caliber for my taste is the Visigothic San Pedro de la Nave, about 24 km out of town. Amazing. I got a ride out with the hospitalero and then walked back (it's on the camino from ZAmora to santiago via Braganca).

Which leads to my final suggestion that you consider walking the VDLP/Sanabres, and then you'll walk into Zamora!

 

[scruffy1]

Alas Peregrina, my legs are no longer long enough to walk from Sevilla. True I have walked longer distances from both Le Puy and Vezelay but the French stages are shorter and the climate more pilgrim friendly. I have indeed read of San Pedro de la Nave in El Campillo and seen the photographs in Strafford's book - its on my wish list before I leave Zamora - Maybe taxi maybe hitchhike Maybe who knows. Thanks for the encouragement and confirmation!

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm in Zamora right now and when I got simple tourist map with all "worth to see monuments" checked by hostal staff I immediatelly knew one day just won't be enough. Therefore I can only ditto Laurie...
Scruffy, think about two days

 

[Rebekah Scott]

and then there's Toro, a stone's throw away, a wonderful wine-producing town with a fully-painted "Portico de Gloria" in all its glory in the Collegiate church. Fabulous big wine, and cheese... OMG. What amazing cheese. If I ever have to move from Moratinos, I would probably move to Zamora or Toro. Or maybe Leon?

 

[nathanael]

I am at the fine tuning stage of planning my pilgrimage on the CF - reading history, art, architecture, and cook books. At the moment re-reading one of my very favorites, "Romanesque Churches of Spain" by Peter Strafford. In the chapter on Castile and León I find Zamora and learn that it is especially blessed with Romanesque churches, houses, and the bridge. Zamora isa small town, less then 70,000 people but they are fighting for the tourist dollar therefore there are some wonderful and very attractive web sites explaining what there is to see, where the monuments are located, and opening hours! Try here (Spanish):

http://www.romanicozamora.es/

For those perhaps intimidated by the Spanish a partial list may be found here in English:

http://www.spainisculture.com/en/rutas_culturales/el_romanico_de_zamora_y_toro.html

For my fellow Jewish pilgrims and those who perhaps have an interest in Medieval Spain, those city areas where the Jewish community lived in Zamora until 1492 have been highlighted by the Zamora tourist office and may be seen here.

http://www.campanton.com/2014/07/city-of-zamora-signposted-its.html
¿Me? My planned rest day in Astorga will be spent on a bus going to Zamora, an intensive walkabout, and then back the next morning.

stayed in Zamora for two days because of foot problem was an excellent time albergue allow me to stay for two days because of my foot. Loved the town hall clock chiming very interesting. nice city and good eating places and many gypsies. I definitely recommend this place.

 

[IngridF]

I'm in Zamora right now and when I got simple tourist map with all "worth to see monuments" checked by hostal staff I immediatelly knew one day just won't be enough. Therefore I can only ditto Laurie...
Scruffy, think about two days

Was nice to meet you, kinks and all. Dolores and I are in charge now... easy and pleasant. Ultreia

 

[jenzinspain]

Was nice to meet you, kinks and all. Dolores and I are in charge now... easy and pleasant. Ultreia

Hi Ingrid. I am the hospitalera in Salamanca and would like to pm a message to you for a pilgrim that was here for the last few days. Is that ok?
Jenny

 

[jenzinspain]

Ps

Hi Ingrid. I am the hospitalera in Salamanca and would like to pm a message to you for a pilgrim that was here for the last few days. Is that ok?
Jenny

he caught the bus to Zamora today

 

[KinkyOne]

Was nice to meet you, kinks and all. Dolores and I are in charge now... easy and pleasant. Ultreia

I believe that's a little very pilgrim friendly place now
Enjoy it!

 

[Castilian]

Romanesque fans might be interested in visiting the North of Palencia province where there's tons of Romanesque art.

For more info:

www.arteguias.com/romanico_palencia.htm (overview with links in orange to get more detailed info about Romanesque Art in several areas of the province)
www.arquivoltas.com/8-palencia/01MapaPalencia.htm (interactive map of the province, each yellow dot represents a town with a Romanesque monument -or more-. Click on the yellow dot of the town(s) of your interest to get detailed info about the Romanesque monument(s) available at that(those) town(s)).
www.palenciaturismo.es/contenido/c3add75b-d5f4-11de-b283-fb9baaa14523?seccion=fbc4aa8b-d5f4-11de-b283-fb9baaa14523

Of equal caliber for my taste is the Visigothic San Pedro de la Nave, about 24 km out of town.

If you ever walk the Camino del Sureste, I suggest you to make a roughly 6 kms. detour on the leg from Mota del Marqués to Villardefrades to visit the Mozarabic church in San Cebrián de Mazote and the walled village of Urueña (don't miss the ermita de La Anunciada out of the walls).

For info about the Mozarabic church in San Cebrián de Mazote:

www.arteguias.com/monasterio/sancebrianmazote.htm
www.turismo-prerromanico.com/es/mozarabe/monumento/san-cebrin-de-mazote-20130416115011
www.provinciadevalladolid.com/es/san-cebrian-mazote

For info about Urueña:

www.arteguias.com/valladolid/uruena.htm
www.uruena.ayuntamientosdevalladolid.es/?q=view_cont_lugares_interes
www.funjdiaz.net/uruena1.php
www.urueña.es
www.provinciadevalladolid.com/es/uruena
Focused on the ermita de La Anunciada: www.arquivoltas.com/25-Valladolid/02-Uruena.htm

Tips:

• Not sure what's the current situation with visits to the Mozarabic church in San Cebrián de Mazote but if nothing has changed, it isn't an easy one because it just opens when there's mass (i.e.: once a week). I warn you that the church might be closed but I don't want to discourage any of you to go to the town and give it a try. You never know. On my last visit on a cold January afternoon, the streets where deserted but we finded the church opened because a local had go to leave something inside. We wouldn't have found it opened if we had go 10 minutes earlier or later... To ask in town who's in charge of the church and ask him/her whether s/he would be so nice as to show it for you might be an option to try if you find the church closed. The mass day will most likely be Sunday (morning) although in rural areas you don't always know it for sure.
  
• Urueña is uphill but you shouldn't overlook the ermita of La Anunciada (out of the village, downhill), specially if you are a Romanesque art fan

and then there's Toro, a stone's throw away,

...and castle fans would be interested in visiting the Castle of Villalonso a stone's throw away from Toro (not sure what's the current opening timetable of the castle but it used to be just a short time in Sundays' mornings -weekends on peak seasons-).

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Castilian, we need to do a road trip.

 

[peregrina2000]

Castilian, we need to do a road trip.

Rebekah, I immediately thought of you with Castilian's mention of romanesque in Palencia. Sign me up for that road trip!!! Laurie