- Time of past OR future Camino
- May 2023: Via Francigena, Lucca to Rome
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Costs - These seem to be higher than the Francés, with more pensións and fewer albergues. Does budgeting 35€ to 40€ per day sound about right?
Other peregrinos - Has anyone noticed an increase in peregrinos now that the Invierno is an officially recognized Camino? I love the idea of a quieter camino, and experiencing a deeper connection to Galicia itself, but don't like the idea of being the only one on the road.
Planning ahead - It sounds like it's a good idea to make reservations on this route. Is planning one day ahead fine, or would you recommend more advanced planning?
Nothing really to add to Laurie's and AJ's posts. I walked it in 2014 and had the way all to myself but according to official stats the numbers are rising steadily every year. In the summer it would be more likely to meet someone than in the fall I guess but anyway you'll hit the Sanabres after A Laxe and it won't be so solitary.I've started to look into alternate approaches into Santiago after reading so many postings about the crowds and commercialization of the Camino after Sarria. I just finished browsing the great guide that Laurie & all put together, and the Invierno sounds very tempting.
I do have a couple questions on the route, though:
Costs - These seem to be higher than the Francés, with more pensións and fewer albergues. Does budgeting 35€ to 40€ per day sound about right?
Other peregrinos - Has anyone noticed an increase in peregrinos now that the Invierno is an officially recognized Camino? I love the idea of a quieter camino, and experiencing a deeper connection to Galicia itself, but don't like the idea of being the only one on the road.
Planning ahead - It sounds like it's a good idea to make reservations on this route. Is planning one day ahead fine, or would you recommend more advanced planning?
I won't be walking until the fall, and won't actually make any firm decisions until I approach Ponferrada; right now I'm just researching options so that I'll be able to make a good choice when the time comes.
I've started to look into alternate approaches into Santiago after reading so many postings about the crowds and commercialization of the Camino after Sarria. I just finished browsing the great guide that Laurie & all put together, and the Invierno sounds very tempting.
I do have a couple questions on the route, though:
Costs - These seem to be higher than the Francés, with more pensións and fewer albergues. Does budgeting 35€ to 40€ per day sound about right?
Other peregrinos - Has anyone noticed an increase in peregrinos now that the Invierno is an officially recognized Camino? I love the idea of a quieter camino, and experiencing a deeper connection to Galicia itself, but don't like the idea of being the only one on the road.
Planning ahead - It sounds like it's a good idea to make reservations on this route. Is planning one day ahead fine, or would you recommend more advanced planning?
I won't be walking until the fall, and won't actually make any firm decisions until I approach Ponferrada; right now I'm just researching options so that I'll be able to make a good choice when the time comes.
Hi JL. Great blog. I just have couple of questions. There are a few 30 plus km stages. Is it possible to shorten these or is there no accommodation in between?I walked the Invierno late last year and didn't see another pilgrim till I joined the Sanabres on the last evening. I have done a cut and past on a previous post of the distances and costs I had, but will repeat it here. I chose to stay in hostals / pensions / hotels as I really didn't want to have to keep repacking my sleeping bag each day. I decided that this accommodation was so reasonable, compared to other places that I could afford to do so - and I must say I enjoyed the luxury of sheets and towels each night (not to mention a bath, as opposed to a shower, to soak in every few days)
You will find my blog here, http://offwanderingagain.blogspot.com.au/
and below are the places I stayed in, along with the cost. Cheers, Janet
Day 1. Thursday 20th Oct. Ponferrada to Borrenes, 22. Kms. Centro de Turismo Rural Cornatel. €40
Day 2. 21st Oct. to Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras, 17.3 Kms. Hostal Restaurante La Torre. €34
Day 3. 22nd Oct. to O Barco de Valdeorras. 22.1 Kms. Pensión do Lar €25
Day 4. 23rd Oct. to A Rûa de Valdeorras. 14 kms. Hostal Niza €18. (own shower & basin, shared toilet)
Day 5. 24th Oct. to Quiroga. 29.5 Kms. Hostal Quiper €17
Day 6. 25th Oct. to Pobra do Brollón. 26.03 Kms. Hostal As Viñas, Dinner, bed & Breakfast €34
Day 7. 26th Oct. to Monforte de Lemos. 16.7 Kms. Hotel Puenta Romano room + brekky €20
Day 8. 27th Oct. to Chantada. 32.7 Kms. Hotel Mogay. €33.
Day 9. 28th Oct. to Rodeiro. 24.4 Kms. Hospedaxe O Guerra dinner bed and breakfast €32
Day 10. 29th Oct. to Lalin. 19Kms. Hotel Palacio. Dinner, bed and breakfast €35
Day 11. 30th Oct. to Ponte Ulla. 38.6kms. Bar Rios. Dinner, bed & breakfast €27
Day 12. 31st Oct. to Santiago de Compostela. San Martin Pinario €92 (€23 per night - pilgrim room) bed & breakfast for 4 nights
Hi JL. Great blog. I just have couple of questions. There are a few 30 plus km stages. Is it possible to shorten these or is there no accommodation in between?
Thank you very much Gitti
Hola, Janet,I walked the Invierno late last year and didn't see another pilgrim till I joined the Sanabres on the last evening. I have done a cut and past on a previous post of the distances and costs I had, but will repeat it here. I chose to stay in hostals / pensions / hotels as I really didn't want to have to keep repacking my sleeping bag each day. I decided that this accommodation was so reasonable, compared to other places that I could afford to do so - and I must say I enjoyed the luxury of sheets and towels each night (not to mention a bath, as opposed to a shower, to soak in every few days)
You will find my blog here, http://offwanderingagain.blogspot.com.au/
and below are the places I stayed in, along with the cost. Cheers, Janet
Day 1. Thursday 20th Oct. Ponferrada to Borrenes, 22. Kms. Centro de Turismo Rural Cornatel. €40
Day 2. 21st Oct. to Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras, 17.3 Kms. Hostal Restaurante La Torre. €34
Day 3. 22nd Oct. to O Barco de Valdeorras. 22.1 Kms. Pensión do Lar €25
Day 4. 23rd Oct. to A Rûa de Valdeorras. 14 kms. Hostal Niza €18. (own shower & basin, shared toilet)
Day 5. 24th Oct. to Quiroga. 29.5 Kms. Hostal Quiper €17
Day 6. 25th Oct. to Pobra do Brollón. 26.03 Kms. Hostal As Viñas, Dinner, bed & Breakfast €34
Day 7. 26th Oct. to Monforte de Lemos. 16.7 Kms. Hotel Puenta Romano room + brekky €20
Day 8. 27th Oct. to Chantada. 32.7 Kms. Hotel Mogay. €33.
Day 9. 28th Oct. to Rodeiro. 24.4 Kms. Hospedaxe O Guerra dinner bed and breakfast €32
Day 10. 29th Oct. to Lalin. 19Kms. Hotel Palacio. Dinner, bed and breakfast €35
Day 11. 30th Oct. to Ponte Ulla. 38.6kms. Bar Rios. Dinner, bed & breakfast €27
Day 12. 31st Oct. to Santiago de Compostela. San Martin Pinario €92 (€23 per night - pilgrim room) bed & breakfast for 4 nights
Hola, I had one of those head sets at this place. I wanted a room to myself with my own bathroom and because Las Medulas didn't seem to have anything open or available (I had the booking.com head set!!!), I booked a room. When I arrived, the owner (via his lovely young daughter at the bar) told me to cancel the more expensive online booking I had made and gave me the room at a pilgrim rate. I wanted a room to myself with no security issues with charging camera etc - plus my own bathroom. I must say that it was worth every penny. I was able to wallow in a beautiful hot bath and relax all the muscles that were tender after the long steady descent into the town. Sometimes you just have to do something like that! The owners at that place were so friendly and helpful.How come you paid 34€ in Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Florez? In 2014 I managed to get pilgrim discount and subsequently paid 20€ for room with shared bathroom but with wash basin.
Hi Gitti, I followed, more or less, Laurie's guide. Sometimes I broke stages up, others I went further. It is quite explicit as to where accommodation is, and where it isn't. I even went to the extent of staying in the recommended places when there was a choice - and would recommend them myself. I also made the last couple of days a bit longer so that I could have an extra day in Santiago. Mind you that last day from Ponte Ulla is a killer! Especially after the long day that I had before. The walk into Santiago felt as if it would never end, and I think that was because I had such a big day the day before, though there is quite a bit of up and down from Ponte Ulla as well, which doesn't help.Great blog. I just have couple of questions. There are a few 30 plus km stages. Is it possible to shorten these or is there no accommodation in between?
Thank you very much Gitti
I had my plan mapped out for 15 days (some would do it in 9) and distances of approximately 23km at the most. It may have involved spending two nights in the same place, walking in the am, returning by train in the afternoon, and taking the train again the next morning to where I would have stopped walking the day before.Hi JL. Great blog. I just have couple of questions. There are a few 30 plus km stages. Is it possible to shorten these or is there no accommodation in between?
Thank you very much Gitti
Thank you very much Janet.Hola, I had one of those head sets at this place. I wanted a room to myself with my own bathroom and because Las Medulas didn't seem to have anything open or available (I had the booking.com head set!!!), I booked a room. When I arrived, the owner (via his lovely young daughter at the bar) told me to cancel the more expensive online booking I had made and gave me the room at a pilgrim rate. I wanted a room to myself with no security issues with charging camera etc - plus my own bathroom. I must say that it was worth every penny. I was able to wallow in a beautiful hot bath and relax all the muscles that were tender after the long steady descent into the town. Sometimes you just have to do something like that! The owners at that place were so friendly and helpful.
Hi Gitti, I followed, more or less, Laurie's guide. Sometimes I broke stages up, others I went further. It is quite explicit as to where accommodation is, and where it isn't. I even went to the extent of staying in the recommended places when there was a choice - and would recommend them myself. I also made the last couple of days a bit longer so that I could have an extra day in Santiago. Mind you that last day from Ponte Ulla is a killer! Especially after the long day that I had before. The walk into Santiago felt as if it would never end, and I think that was because I had such a big day the day before, though there is quite a bit of up and down from Ponte Ulla as well, which doesn't help.
Cheers, Janet
I don't know if this will help anyone walking this summer, but I made a one-page reference sheet of places to stay on the Invierno. Putting this together has helped me get a sense of the distances involved, and the options, so I figured I'd pass it on. This is all pulled from the Laurie's guide, with a few add-ons that I saw on Gronze. And I didn't even try to be complete - I focused on places open in the fall, and looked at prices for a single person, and only copied down a few that were over 35 euro.
I also noticed that the recommended 15-day walk is only 14 days!
But wait -- I just checked and saw that the short stages recommendation was 15 stages, so I must be missing something.
Hope you'll send me lots more.
I don't know if this will help anyone walking this summer, but I made a one-page reference sheet of places to stay on the Invierno. Putting this together has helped me get a sense of the distances involved, and the options, so I figured I'd pass it on.
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